From 1625b395b61de447948ccfeff4ee96f425f4471d Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Daniel Patterson Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 09:04:19 -0400 Subject: [PATCH] Switch from circle to github actions; various misc changes. --- .circleci/config.yml | 28 --- .github/workflows/deploy.yml | 51 +++++ _site/apple/boat.html | 74 +++++++ _site/apple/building.html | 171 ++++++++++++++++ _site/apple/building/bowtank.html | 129 ++++++++++++ _site/apple/building/gunwales.html | 96 +++++++++ _site/apple/building/hull.html | 184 ++++++++++++++++++ _site/apple/building/stem.html | 108 ++++++++++ _site/apple/building/sterntank.html | 96 +++++++++ _site/apple/comparison.html | 73 +++++++ _site/apple/index.html | 69 ++++++- _site/apple/others.html | 75 +++++++ _site/artifacts/funtal/codemirror.js | Bin 95739 -> 95739 bytes _site/artifacts/funtal/matchbrackets.js | Bin 1914 -> 1914 bytes _site/artifacts/funtal/runmode.js | Bin 1039 -> 1039 bytes _site/artifacts/funtal/simple.js | Bin 2332 -> 2332 bytes 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run: ./site build - - run: sudo apt-get update -yy && sudo apt-get install awscli - - run: ./site deploy - - save-cache: - key: site-{{ checksum "site" }} - paths: - - "~/.stack" - - ".stack-work" - -workflows: - version: 2 - build_and_deploy: - jobs: - - do diff --git a/.github/workflows/deploy.yml b/.github/workflows/deploy.yml new file mode 100644 index 0000000..806efa4 --- /dev/null +++ b/.github/workflows/deploy.yml @@ -0,0 +1,51 @@ +name: Build and deploy site + +on: + push: + branches: [ master ] + pull_request: + branches: [ master ] + +jobs: + do_it: + + runs-on: ubuntu-latest + + steps: + - uses: actions/checkout@v2 + - uses: actions/setup-haskell@v1 + with: + enable-stack: true + stack-version: 'latest' + + - name: Cache + uses: actions/cache@v1 + env: + cache-name: cache-stack-1 + with: + path: ~/.stack + key: ${{ runner.os }}-build-${{ env.cache-name }} + restore-keys: | + ${{ runner.os }}-build-${{ env.cache-name }} + - name: Build + run: stack --resolver lts-12.26 --install-ghc runghc --package hakyll site build + - name: Deploy everything but artifact js + uses: jakejarvis/s3-sync-action@master + with: + args: --acl public-read --follow-symlinks --exclude \"artifacts/*/*.js\" + env: + AWS_S3_BUCKET: 'dbp.io' + AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID: ${{ secrets.AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID }} + AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY: ${{ secrets.AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY }} + AWS_REGION: 'us-east-1' # optional: defaults to us-east-1 + SOURCE_DIR: '_site' # optional: defaults to entire repository + - name: Deploy artifact js + uses: jakejarvis/s3-sync-action@master + with: + args: --acl public-read --follow-symlinks --exclude \"*\" --include \"artifacts/*/*.js\" --content-type \"application/javascript\" --content-encoding \"gzip\" + env: + AWS_S3_BUCKET: 'dbp.io' + AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID: ${{ secrets.AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID }} + AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY: ${{ secrets.AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY }} + AWS_REGION: 'us-east-1' # optional: defaults to us-east-1 + SOURCE_DIR: '_site' # optional: defaults to entire repository diff --git a/_site/apple/boat.html b/_site/apple/boat.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..953c311 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/boat.html @@ -0,0 +1,74 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website

+ +

My Boat

+

While certainly many details on this site will be relevant to any variety of Apple 16, some may not, so it’s important to highlight the boat I’m building:

+
    +
  1. 4 plank per side “Apple AHL” as it’s described in some of Tom’s pages, rather than the 5 plank “Swedish Apple” (or the gaff cutter – which doesn’t describe the hull, but rather what goes above!). The 5 plank Apple requires 6 sheets of ply for planks, rather than 4 sheets for the 4 plank Apple: given that the marine ply I’m using (Occume) is tropical hardwood, minimizing it is a no brainer (I’m sure I would use off-cuts in the 5 plank version). I was also just amazed by the way that Tom nested the planks into the sheets, and how that turned into such a beautiful 3D shape – often the planks would be less than an inch from each other in multiple places.
    2. +
  2. Single rig, with a small mizzen. This is shown in the picture above. The plans account for a larger mizzen “light-air” rig, and corresponding multiple daggerboard positions – something I did not want to deal with!
    3. +
  3. Pivoting centerboard, rather than a daggerboard. The design in the plans calls for a long daggerboard case to accommodate the two rig options, so the centerboard case doesn’t actually take up more room in the boat. While it isn’t in the plan set (or at least, wasn’t when I bought them), when I asked Tom about a centerboard he sent me CAD drawings he had made based on old sketches (for two different options), so I didn’t actually have to do any designing: his design, conveniently, had the same slot size in the hull.
    4. +
  4. An enclosed rear tank seat (technically, two rear tanks, with an open channel for the mizzen step to drain), enclosed bow tank, open rear side seats and mid-ship thwart, but no seats forward of the middle of the boat. Related to this—
    5. +
  5. Floorboards! Sitting on the floor of the boat seems nice for children and dogs, both of which I have – especially forward of the middle thwart, the hull starts to get steep, so sitting without thwarts requires floorboards. Also, that way you don’t have to sit in bilge water!
    6. +
  6. The mast partner is a slight deviation: I’m using the mast gate used by Iain Oughtred, as it allows the mast to be stepped by first placing the butt is the step and then lifting up the mast (the back of the mast partner is open). As a result of this change, I did deviate a bit in the bow, as I made the mast partner be part of one continuous king-plank, rather than one of the plywood options that are in the plans.
    7. +
  7. For the tiller, rather than the curved one that goes around the mizzen mast, I’m going to put in a Norwegian-style push-pull tiller. This seems easier, and should allow more room for seating further back in the boat.
    8. +
+

Materials

+ + + diff --git a/_site/apple/building.html b/_site/apple/building.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..93e3a04 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/building.html @@ -0,0 +1,171 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – building

+ +

Sections

+ +

Thus far, my build has taken the following approximate amounts of time for the various sections, described in the above sections. As I complete more parts of the boat, I’ll add more sections. The sections above took the following amounts of time.

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
Hull stitched and taped62 hours
Gunwales & Quarter Knees27.75 hours
Outer Stem & Front of Keel12.75 hours
Bow Tank & Mast Partner27 hours
Stern Tank & Mizzen Step/Partner33 hours
+

Taking Care

+
+I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place.
I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place.
+
+

Tools

+

There are countless tools that you might use in a project like this, but a few that I don’t think are avoidable (i.e., if you don’t have access to, you should borrow / buy):

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Table SawFor the gunwales and stringers, there really isn’t any other good option (cutting 20mm x 20mm in a 17ft piece is well beyond my ability with a circular saw). Perhaps a nice bandsaw could do it, but I’d be surprised if you had a band saw and not a table saw! Also, if you are going to do a birdsmouth hollow mast, while you can cut the birdsmouth with a router table (assuming you can get ahold of the strips without a table saw…), the table saw makes it really easy (assuming you are doing an 8 sided, 45 degree angle one).
Curved raspFor cutting the rake into the steps and mizzen partner, if nothing else, I don’t think any other tool really can work. It’s also useful in trimming things like the breasthook, quarter knees, hatch holes, etc. In theory, sand paper and a dowel could substitute but only if you are very patient.
Jig SawI did not use this to cut out panels (I think a small circular saw worked better, cutting more smooth curves), but for cutting out the bulkhead profiles, cutting out hatch holes, and any number of other places where cutting curves was necessary.
Keyhole SawFor when you are cutting something out with the Jig Saw, but you end up in a place where the body of the Jig Saw prevents it from cutting further. Duckworks sells a nice one. Obviously, the smaller your Jig Saw and the further in advance you plan (i.e., the less things you are cutting once they are epoxied onto the boat), the less you will need this, but I’d be surprised if it never comes up!
Carbide ScraperIf you can avoid the need for this, bravo; but for the rest of us, that miss epoxy drips, this, plus possibly a heat gun (not necessary but for the heavy duty drips, makes it easier), is really helpful.
Hand planeA small block plane is all that’s needed, but it should be a good one. You might be able to get away without one (I built a previous boat using power sanders where planes were called for), but it’ll be a pain.
Random orbital sanderNot only is there so much sanding to do to clean up epoxy, but between coats of paint, etc.
Clamps. Lots!You’ll need the most when doing the gunwales, where cheap spring clamps (the bigger 2" ones) will mostly work, though once you are doing the last layer, they won’t quite fit, so having at least 15 or more regular clamps will be critical. If you were starting from scratch, 6" or 8" F clamps would probably be the most useful for the build.
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And then, the tools that certainly aren’t irreplaceable, but that I use all the time.

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Shinto RaspProbably the most common thing I used this for was knocking off epoxy drips, by using it almost as a sander; at the right angle, it doesn’t scrape the wood at all. I also used the tip for cutting chamfers where the router couldn’t reach (holding the tip with one hand, the body with another, and running it along at the right angle). And then of course if you need to take off a lot of wood, it’s pretty effective, but can do some damage.
BandsawUnsurprising, given the place this typically holds in boat building shops. It’s totally unnecessary, as I think I resawed exactly one piece of wood for the boat, and thus all of the cuts that I made could have been made with either the table saw, jig saw, or hand saw, but at the same time, I used it more than all the rest of those combined. Given that nothing in the boat is square, being able to cut at arbitrary angles, into corners, quickly, (relatively) safely, is incredibly useful. I would often free cut and either it was in places where it didn’t matter (the joint would be filleted, so small gaps would disappear), or I would cut outside the line and fine tune it with a plane anyway.
Oscillating multi-toolI mostly use this as a small power sander that can get into places that a normal 5" random orbital can’t, but the surprising use was actually the flush cutting, which I’ve used exclusively to un-epoxy things that I accidentally glued together. Unlike using heat, this doesn’t harm any epoxy underneath (like when I didn’t anticipate epoxy running down the centerline and gluing a random panel that was laying on it, and I was able to cut it off without damaging the glass tape). A more careful craftsperson may never need this, but that I am not.
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Build Thread

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As I went along, I documented what I was doing and questions I had. It’s a lot less organized than this page, but in case you are curious: Build Thread with Photos

+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/building/bowtank.html b/_site/apple/building/bowtank.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..16da2dd --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/building/bowtank.html @@ -0,0 +1,129 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – building

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Sections

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Total Time: 27 hours

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My version of the bow tank deviated pretty significantly from the plans, as I used a different style mast partner and as a result (and also, to save on plywood), used a lot more solid timber inside the tank. I have the tank top ending at the bulkhead, partly because the square of plywood that I had set aside for this based on suggestion from Tom (500mm x 1100mm) was (I think) for just up until the bulkhead. I’m not actually sure if this is what the short/long foredeck refers to, but given my mast gate is a single piece of hardwood that is supported at multiple places going all the way to the stem, I don’t think that losing the couple inches of ply will have any impact! Obviously in the case of the partner from the plans, it might be more important to have the ply support of the longer foredeck.

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Photos of building sequence, with notes

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+As mentioned above, and in the Boat section, I decided to use the mast partner design that is on some of Iain Oughtred’s designs. I like the open front, as it allows the mast to be put into the step and then pushed up, rather than needing to slide it into the partner from above. This photo shows the full arrangement dry-fit; the key is that the piece at the bottom left will slide it (and have tension from below with shock cord), rather than being permanently attached.
As mentioned above, and in the Boat section, I decided to use the mast partner design that is on some of Iain Oughtred’s designs. I like the open front, as it allows the mast to be put into the step and then pushed up, rather than needing to slide it into the partner from above. This photo shows the full arrangement dry-fit; the key is that the piece at the bottom left will slide it (and have tension from below with shock cord), rather than being permanently attached.
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+Not visibly in the above photo is a knee that I added, matching the knee in the plans, though I made mine out of douglas fir instead of plywood
Not visibly in the above photo is a knee that I added, matching the knee in the plans, though I made mine out of douglas fir instead of plywood
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+I made the tank top patterns out of cardboard, scribing with a compass a fixed distance from the hull, cutting, and then repeating. Since the other side of the hull gets in the way (you can’t start with a big enough piece of cardboard), this had to be done with small pieces of cardboard and then taped together. This gets plenty of accuracy, especially given that the edges are going to be hidden with a fillet eventually anyway
I made the tank top patterns out of cardboard, scribing with a compass a fixed distance from the hull, cutting, and then repeating. Since the other side of the hull gets in the way (you can’t start with a big enough piece of cardboard), this had to be done with small pieces of cardboard and then taped together. This gets plenty of accuracy, especially given that the edges are going to be hidden with a fillet eventually anyway
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+I cut a hole for a hatch on one side, and added reinforcements. To save ply, I cut four separate pieces for the reinforcements, as then they could come out of much smaller pieces of ply vs. if I tried to get a single one (also, easier to cut on the bandsaw without having the middle of a circle to cut out). I made a plywood template for this quarter hatch ring, which I re-used on the stern tank hatches. The hatches themselves are single piece Armstrong; there is an arm that goes on the inside and screwing the hatch closed pulls the arm against the ring, putting pressure on the hatch and the ring around the hatch. Not only should these be actually water-tight, it’s neat that they don’t have anything permanently installed on the boat, so I can “install” 3 of them when I only have one in hand (before hitting the water, I should get the rest!)
I cut a hole for a hatch on one side, and added reinforcements. To save ply, I cut four separate pieces for the reinforcements, as then they could come out of much smaller pieces of ply vs. if I tried to get a single one (also, easier to cut on the bandsaw without having the middle of a circle to cut out). I made a plywood template for this quarter hatch ring, which I re-used on the stern tank hatches. The hatches themselves are single piece Armstrong; there is an arm that goes on the inside and screwing the hatch closed pulls the arm against the ring, putting pressure on the hatch and the ring around the hatch. Not only should these be actually water-tight, it’s neat that they don’t have anything permanently installed on the boat, so I can “install” 3 of them when I only have one in hand (before hitting the water, I should get the rest!)
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+After three coats of epoxy, I put on two coats System 3 epoxy primer (shown here)
After three coats of epoxy, I put on two coats System 3 epoxy primer (shown here)
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+And 3-4 coats of paint (3 was plenty on the underside of the tank tops, which were smooth; I didn’t do the best job smoothing out the inside of the tanks, so it took 4 coats to really get the color uniform). Painting the underside of the king plank was a total pain – probably, I should have just not bothered (it really didn’t matter; it was epoxy sealed, and the only reason I was painting the tanks at all was to make it easier to see inside them, which means the primer would probably have been plenty). The mirror helped, but still! If I did it again, I would have painted it outside the boat, like I did the tank tops, and then sanded it all the way back to wood where the joints would be, to ensure a strong bond (being worried about the joint was the reason I put it in after epoxy sealing it).
And 3-4 coats of paint (3 was plenty on the underside of the tank tops, which were smooth; I didn’t do the best job smoothing out the inside of the tanks, so it took 4 coats to really get the color uniform). Painting the underside of the king plank was a total pain – probably, I should have just not bothered (it really didn’t matter; it was epoxy sealed, and the only reason I was painting the tanks at all was to make it easier to see inside them, which means the primer would probably have been plenty). The mirror helped, but still! If I did it again, I would have painted it outside the boat, like I did the tank tops, and then sanded it all the way back to wood where the joints would be, to ensure a strong bond (being worried about the joint was the reason I put it in after epoxy sealing it).
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+I added lots of weights to hold everything together after glueing, but honestly, the few screws I put in did a lot better job; I should probably have just stuck to them.
I added lots of weights to hold everything together after glueing, but honestly, the few screws I put in did a lot better job; I should probably have just stuck to them.
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+Then, once everything was dry, some clean up, some fillets on the top, and the tank is essentially done for now
Then, once everything was dry, some clean up, some fillets on the top, and the tank is essentially done for now
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+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/building/gunwales.html b/_site/apple/building/gunwales.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1420f28 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/building/gunwales.html @@ -0,0 +1,96 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – building

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Sections

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Total Time: 27.75 hours

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The gunwales are pretty easy – my time estimate should be high, as I had a bit of a disaster with the first wood I was trying to use kept breaking.

+

Important Notes (!!! READ THESE EVEN IF YOU IGNORE THE REST !!!)

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Photos of building sequence, with notes

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+After finishing spot filleting and taping between the wires, it’s time to put on the gunwales. I made a bit of a mistake here, getting some too brittle douglas fir that just kept cracking. I’m sure if I could steam it, or perhaps it wasn’t as cold in my shop, or any number of other options, but I ended up eventually giving up and doing layers of eastern white pine capped by outer layers of african mahogany (khaya). As part of my experimenting, I kept making thinner strips, and ended up doing that with the pine/khaya as well, though I’m sure that was unnecessary (the pine, at least, was very bendy). I also didn’t make the strips quite long enough, hence the gap in the front, but eventually cut a piece of khaya to fit
After finishing spot filleting and taping between the wires, it’s time to put on the gunwales. I made a bit of a mistake here, getting some too brittle douglas fir that just kept cracking. I’m sure if I could steam it, or perhaps it wasn’t as cold in my shop, or any number of other options, but I ended up eventually giving up and doing layers of eastern white pine capped by outer layers of african mahogany (khaya). As part of my experimenting, I kept making thinner strips, and ended up doing that with the pine/khaya as well, though I’m sure that was unnecessary (the pine, at least, was very bendy). I also didn’t make the strips quite long enough, hence the gap in the front, but eventually cut a piece of khaya to fit
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+And then the final step before flipping: the quarter knees. I cut slots to fit the inwales, but realized later that the inwales will slant up at the end (since the hull is not plumb at the transom, but sloping out), so if you want them to smoothly transition into the quarter knees, the quarter knees should really go with the curved transom, rather than flat, and have the quarter knees match the angle that the inwale will have. But it’s nothing I’m losing sleep over – structurally, they are sound (probably oversized, but they are nice hand-holds).
And then the final step before flipping: the quarter knees. I cut slots to fit the inwales, but realized later that the inwales will slant up at the end (since the hull is not plumb at the transom, but sloping out), so if you want them to smoothly transition into the quarter knees, the quarter knees should really go with the curved transom, rather than flat, and have the quarter knees match the angle that the inwale will have. But it’s nothing I’m losing sleep over – structurally, they are sound (probably oversized, but they are nice hand-holds).
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+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/building/hull.html b/_site/apple/building/hull.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f0d717 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/building/hull.html @@ -0,0 +1,184 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – building

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Sections

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Total Time: 62 hours

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Building the hull is pretty straightforward – while it certainly takes some time, once you get the strakes cut out, it goes together very quickly.

+

Important Notes (!!! READ THESE EVEN IF YOU IGNORE THE REST !!!)

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Photos of building sequence, with notes

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+I did glass butt joints and it worked out well; not only is it easier than scarfing, it gains extra length on the sheets, which I was worried about because I didn’t want to have to have the missing triangle at the front of the top strake; as it turned out, due to having european 2500mm plywood, it would have been fine scarfed
I did glass butt joints and it worked out well; not only is it easier than scarfing, it gains extra length on the sheets, which I was worried about because I didn’t want to have to have the missing triangle at the front of the top strake; as it turned out, due to having european 2500mm plywood, it would have been fine scarfed
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+I cut all the panels with a 6.5" circular saw with a 60T blade, with one scarfed sheet clamped on the other. This could easily handle the curves, and I generally kept very close to the line to minimize the planing that would be necessary later. The hand saw was for the few places where the plywood flexed and so the saw didn’t fully cut the bottom sheet
I cut all the panels with a 6.5" circular saw with a 60T blade, with one scarfed sheet clamped on the other. This could easily handle the curves, and I generally kept very close to the line to minimize the planing that would be necessary later. The hand saw was for the few places where the plywood flexed and so the saw didn’t fully cut the bottom sheet
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+Unsurprisingly, I used too much epoxy for the butt joints, but better too much than too little. The combination of heat gun and scraper worked pretty well (only one slight scorch in one spot, on all the strakes), though I was careful to not heat up the epoxy that was in the glass as I didn’t want to weaken it.
Unsurprisingly, I used too much epoxy for the butt joints, but better too much than too little. The combination of heat gun and scraper worked pretty well (only one slight scorch in one spot, on all the strakes), though I was careful to not heat up the epoxy that was in the glass as I didn’t want to weaken it.
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+The hull goes together quickly at this point. Glass on the upper front edge of strake 0 can be seen here – I was a little unsure about what upper edge meant, but what is in this photo was correct, as I could see the strain it was under later on in the process.
The hull goes together quickly at this point. Glass on the upper front edge of strake 0 can be seen here – I was a little unsure about what upper edge meant, but what is in this photo was correct, as I could see the strain it was under later on in the process.
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+Working alone, the strakes are very wobbly: one technique that I realized later was using a spring clamp (or several) on the lower strake towards the rear to hold the currently-being-wired strake in as the next gets wired. In email, Tom emphasized to wire from front to back, which I was able to once I had that issue worked out.
Working alone, the strakes are very wobbly: one technique that I realized later was using a spring clamp (or several) on the lower strake towards the rear to hold the currently-being-wired strake in as the next gets wired. In email, Tom emphasized to wire from front to back, which I was able to once I had that issue worked out.
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+After three strakes, bulkheads 10, 4, and the transom go in. I had temporary plywood formers, as specified, until this point. These bulkheads will align with the station lines that hopefully you marked before you cut out the strakes and transfered to the other set!
After three strakes, bulkheads 10, 4, and the transom go in. I had temporary plywood formers, as specified, until this point. These bulkheads will align with the station lines that hopefully you marked before you cut out the strakes and transfered to the other set!
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+A note about wires: I started out by buying some copper from Duckworks. It often broke on more extreme bends, and I ran out quickly. Since the design calls for glassing between the wires, then removing them, there is no risk of having any wire left in the hull, so I just got rebar wire from the hardware store. It’s pretty heavy gauge – certainly as strong as I needed (I could pull through the plywood before the wire broke). I ended up replacing most of the copper wires when I was tightening up the hull later on. If you were planning on bright finishing the boat, it is perhaps a bad idea, as it did leave a slight black stain, but I’m not, so no issue for me.
A note about wires: I started out by buying some copper from Duckworks. It often broke on more extreme bends, and I ran out quickly. Since the design calls for glassing between the wires, then removing them, there is no risk of having any wire left in the hull, so I just got rebar wire from the hardware store. It’s pretty heavy gauge – certainly as strong as I needed (I could pull through the plywood before the wire broke). I ended up replacing most of the copper wires when I was tightening up the hull later on. If you were planning on bright finishing the boat, it is perhaps a bad idea, as it did leave a slight black stain, but I’m not, so no issue for me.
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+The first real treat in the build: once the hull is wired together, the transition into the plumb bow really is a thing of beauty (who said plywood couldn’t do compound curves!)
The first real treat in the build: once the hull is wired together, the transition into the plumb bow really is a thing of beauty (who said plywood couldn’t do compound curves!)
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+You also, of course, get a good sense of the whole shape of the boat – you won’t really get a better sense for a long time, so appreciate the milestone, and how quickly it has come!
You also, of course, get a good sense of the whole shape of the boat – you won’t really get a better sense for a long time, so appreciate the milestone, and how quickly it has come!
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+Now the somewhat time consuming step: filleting the bulkheads between the wires and glassing the strakes between the wires. I opted for big fillets and skipping the glass on the bulkheads, as it seemed easier, and based on the longevity of Goat Island Skiffs (see Comparison), I’m pretty sure the Apple 16 is somewhat over-built, strength-wise!)
Now the somewhat time consuming step: filleting the bulkheads between the wires and glassing the strakes between the wires. I opted for big fillets and skipping the glass on the bulkheads, as it seemed easier, and based on the longevity of Goat Island Skiffs (see Comparison), I’m pretty sure the Apple 16 is somewhat over-built, strength-wise!)
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At this point, sequentially, you will do the Gunwales, before flipping the boat, but I organized the time for the Hull to include all of the glass taping, which happens over the course of two more flips.

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+Time to flip the boat! It’s quite light, and with two people, would be very easy to do. Alone, it is stiff enough to just roll it onto its side, though I would suggest rolling it onto cardboard (on my next roll I did), both to protect the gunwales, and more importantly make it easy to slide it over.
Time to flip the boat! It’s quite light, and with two people, would be very easy to do. Alone, it is stiff enough to just roll it onto its side, though I would suggest rolling it onto cardboard (on my next roll I did), both to protect the gunwales, and more importantly make it easy to slide it over.
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+Glassing the outer seams isn’t hard, though it is time consuming – pictured here is once I was finished (not sanded though yet), including filling with epoxy mixed with fairing filler (I did epoxy, then glass, then fill dry spots; once it cured, another layer of unthickened epoxy, once that cured, filled with epoxy mixed with fairing filler to make sanding easier).
Glassing the outer seams isn’t hard, though it is time consuming – pictured here is once I was finished (not sanded though yet), including filling with epoxy mixed with fairing filler (I did epoxy, then glass, then fill dry spots; once it cured, another layer of unthickened epoxy, once that cured, filled with epoxy mixed with fairing filler to make sanding easier).
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Again, while working on the outer seams, it makes sense to do the Outer stem. Technically, it could probably be deferred to later, but this is the order Tom suggests, and I don’t see any reason not to. This is also when he suggested to install the centercase (cutting the slot from the top and bringing the case up from underneath), glassing the hull, and putting on the skeg, but I did defer all of those things.

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+Once all the outer seams have been fully coated, and the hull has been flipped (and possibly more stuff has been done: stem, perhaps centercase, hull glassed, etc), it’s time to sand down the short glass tapes and short fillets and do full length tape over top and full length fillets in the gaps. I sanded with a random orbital sander – I wasn’t that concerned about cutting a little bit into the weave, because there should be so much strength from the 3" full length tape (doubled at the centerline and first chine) and it made it a lot quicker.
Once all the outer seams have been fully coated, and the hull has been flipped (and possibly more stuff has been done: stem, perhaps centercase, hull glassed, etc), it’s time to sand down the short glass tapes and short fillets and do full length tape over top and full length fillets in the gaps. I sanded with a random orbital sander – I wasn’t that concerned about cutting a little bit into the weave, because there should be so much strength from the 3" full length tape (doubled at the centerline and first chine) and it made it a lot quicker.
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+Then it’s just a matter of laying down glass tape – easier, in some ways, than the short segments!
Then it’s just a matter of laying down glass tape – easier, in some ways, than the short segments!
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At this point, the hull is quite strong – it’ll obviously get stronger from knees, thwarts, tanks, floors, etc, and I haven’t felt confident getting into it (but also have been able to reach from the side for everything I’ve needed). Also, as additional (unintentional) confirmation: before building support cradles onto my saw horses, I accidentally dropped the back of the boat off onto the concrete floor (so, about an 18" drop). There was no damage anywhere, which is good!

+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/building/stem.html b/_site/apple/building/stem.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba4bbc6 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/building/stem.html @@ -0,0 +1,108 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – building

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Sections

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Total Time: 12.75 hours

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This is a pretty short part of the process, but the breasthook is one of the most visible parts of the boat!

+

Important Notes (!!! READ THESE EVEN IF YOU IGNORE THE REST !!!)

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Photos of building sequence, with notes

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+The outer (false) step did not appear in the plans outside the instruction sequence. I got details from Tom, including suggestions to chamfer the lower section into a sharp edge. I tried that, but couldn’t get it to look right, so just ended up with a square from (20ish mm wide) with rounded corners.
The outer (false) step did not appear in the plans outside the instruction sequence. I got details from Tom, including suggestions to chamfer the lower section into a sharp edge. I tried that, but couldn’t get it to look right, so just ended up with a square from (20ish mm wide) with rounded corners.
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+I continued that into the forward part of the keel, which was glued down (with lots of weights carefully balanced on the 20mm square top), then reinforced with glass tape. This ends where the centerboard slot begins. When I was doing this, I wasn’t sure if the centerboard would require a different sized slot (I thought I was going to need to design it myself, rather than getting a design from Tom), so diverged from the plans and flipped the boat, deferring the rest of the bottom stuff (glassing, skeg), until later. With what I know now, I would probably do the ordinary sequence, building the centercase at this point.
I continued that into the forward part of the keel, which was glued down (with lots of weights carefully balanced on the 20mm square top), then reinforced with glass tape. This ends where the centerboard slot begins. When I was doing this, I wasn’t sure if the centerboard would require a different sized slot (I thought I was going to need to design it myself, rather than getting a design from Tom), so diverged from the plans and flipped the boat, deferring the rest of the bottom stuff (glassing, skeg), until later. With what I know now, I would probably do the ordinary sequence, building the centercase at this point.
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+For the breasthook, I wanted to shape it to curve up along the line that the gunwale followed (as it is dropping down along the sides), so I fit it in proud, and then used a power planer and sander to shape it. Also, given my lazy craftsmanship: rather than getting the joint perfect, I cut it close enough and added a ton of thickened epoxy to fill the gaps.
For the breasthook, I wanted to shape it to curve up along the line that the gunwale followed (as it is dropping down along the sides), so I fit it in proud, and then used a power planer and sander to shape it. Also, given my lazy craftsmanship: rather than getting the joint perfect, I cut it close enough and added a ton of thickened epoxy to fill the gaps.
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+Also, I noticed after gluing in the breaksthook that I had shaped the back of it backwards, so much later, cut the curve to fit (also, this photo shows the nose: both it and the breaksthook need tuning, but are close).
Also, I noticed after gluing in the breaksthook that I had shaped the back of it backwards, so much later, cut the curve to fit (also, this photo shows the nose: both it and the breaksthook need tuning, but are close).
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+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/building/sterntank.html b/_site/apple/building/sterntank.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8fe4772 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/building/sterntank.html @@ -0,0 +1,96 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – building

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Sections

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Total Time: 33 hours

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About this part

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Important Notes (!!! READ THESE EVEN IF YOU IGNORE THE REST !!!)

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Photos of building sequence, with notes

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+This photo gives a good sense of how I was arranging the stern: two sealed tanks with an open channel in the middle which houses the mizzen step, so if water runs down from the mizzen mast, it can drain out. The tank sides also provide support for the seat tops and the mizzen partner (additional framing will go over the tank tops).
This photo gives a good sense of how I was arranging the stern: two sealed tanks with an open channel in the middle which houses the mizzen step, so if water runs down from the mizzen mast, it can drain out. The tank sides also provide support for the seat tops and the mizzen partner (additional framing will go over the tank tops).
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+The mizzen partner and step are shown here (not glued or epoxy coated yet!): they have a 5.75 degree rake, which corresponds to 50mm rake back a half-meter up, which happens to be what my fake mizzenmast is.
The mizzen partner and step are shown here (not glued or epoxy coated yet!): they have a 5.75 degree rake, which corresponds to 50mm rake back a half-meter up, which happens to be what my fake mizzenmast is.
+
+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/comparison.html b/_site/apple/comparison.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..27f5df1 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/comparison.html @@ -0,0 +1,73 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website – comparison

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Comparison with other boats

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There are many plywood boats suitable for home builders in the ~15-16ft range, roughly 5ft beam, a couple hundred pounds, good performance as sailboats, decent as rowboats. It’s a particularly compelling size, as pretty much any plywood sailboat boat that can fit more than one person will be longer than 8 feet, and once you are scarfing a sheet of plywood (and have gone above what could go on the roof of a car or bed of a pickup), you might as well push to the edge of what two sheets of plywood gets you. The similar light weight of all these boats reflects their overall cost and complexity: a 200lb boat and a 500lb boat, even if they are the same length, are going to be very different in terms of difficulty of building and cost, as at this weight almost no boats have built in ballast and thus all of the weight are actual structural elements. That means if you want to compare similar boats, length and beam will give you an idea of carrying capacity (to first approximation), and weight will give you an idea of cost/complexity (to first approximation).

+

All of the boats on this page are in a roughly similar design space as the Apple 16: 15ft-16ft long, about 5ft wide (beam), and somewhere between 130lbs to 250lbs (actual weights will vary wildly, as choice of materials makes a huge difference; I found this out when I built a supposedly 65lb boat that weighs 120lbs by replacing the 4mm ply with 6mm and using 29lb per sheet lumberyard ply instead of 12lb 4mm occume and 18lb 6mm occume).

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A few are particularly popular, and this page compares the Apple 16 with them, highlighting advantages, in particular, why I ended up building it!

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Goat Island Skiff by Michael Storer

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Storer’s most popular boat, the GIS is 15’6", 5’ beam, 125+lbs, with a 105ft lug sail, though Clint Chase has a lug-yawl option for it.

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In a lot of ways, this boat seems incredibly similar, though it is certainly easier to build (the hull is a flat bottom panel, two sides, and a transom), and it’s very highly recommended. Also, Storer’s plans are generally very good, and the GIS is probably the best of them, given that the plans have had the most eyes on them! The downside is that it seems to be a boat designed for dinghy sailors, in that it is a bit unstable! The light weight, combined with the narrow front means that capsizing it is certainly a risk, and there doesn’t seem to be much to do about it aside from be an experienced sailor!

+

While obviously any light dinghy will capsize, since the Apple 16 doesn’t have a flat bottom, it can have ballast put in (water tanks, or more easily, heavy material like metal or sand), which will make it much more stable. This might make it less exciting to sail, but much better when out with family, or in heavier weather – and with removable ballast, it’s easy to switch. Ballasting isn’t really possible in a flat bottom boat like the GIS, because it would need to switch from side to side on each tack (obviously, the sailors serve as ballast, but that requires skill). Aside from the easier build and more straightforward plans (there is essentially one GIS – modifications do exist, but are pretty rare and minor), another advantage the GIS has is the flat transom makes mounting a motor more straightforward – no complicated mount needed to account for the 30 degree raked transom on the Apple 16.

+

Phoenix III by Ross Lillistone

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A narrower boat at 4’9“, and a little shorter at 15’1.5”, and in general, it is quite a bit smaller, given the area ahead of the mast is inaccessible and the side decks, while making it more seaworthy, also cut into space. At least one sailor experienced with it (and indeed, who thinks it is great) said that it is really comfortably a two person boat. On the flip side, it is probably a much better row boat! It is reported to be quite stable, but is still quite light (spec’ed at 132lbs), and with 104sqft (for the sloop), it moves along!

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Building wise, it is more complex, given the glued lapstrake, but that’s easily avoided by building the similarly designed stitch and glue First Mate.

+

In terms of comparison with the Apple, I think the main difference is that for a similar (though, 8.5" isn’t nothing!) length, and probably similar building process, the Apple 16 is a lot more boat: whether that is actually relevant is of course, a personal decision, but being able to take out three other people comfortably was important to me, and all the other constraints (total cost, space it would take up in garage, difficulty to transport it) seemed pretty similar to me. But, I say that as someone who considers rowing a necessary was to get around when there isn’t enough wind!

+

Argie 15 by Dudley Dix

+

This is perhaps the closest boat to the Apple 16 – partly because the design brief was very similar. While with the Apple 16, Tom was trying to figure out the biggest boat that could be built in a single car garage, he ended up determining that it should come out of 6 sheets of plywood. With the Argie 15, Dudley wanted to build the biggest boat possible out of 6 sheets of plywood. The Argie 15 is a little shorter (15’5“) and a little wider (6’0”). The pluses are that it is designed as a 3-in-1, so fitting a motor is straightforward (indeed, it can be used solely as a motor boat), and it’s also designed to make it easy to sleep on the floor (if that is important to you). And it is clearly a well-tested design by a good designer. Finally, it can be gotten in kit form in many places (in the US, the kits are cut by CLC, though sold by Dudley). So there is a lot going for it! What tips me over to the Apple 16 is partly the rig: while people have put different rigs on the Argie 15, a stayed bermuda sloop is what it is intended to be, and I prefer unstayed lug rigs and like the idea (though have not sailed!) of lug yawls. The spars in the Apple 16 fit in the hull without needing to be in multiple pieces. Finally, there are pure aesthetics: the Argie 15 is certainly a pretty boat, but the plumb bow of the Apple 16 grabbed me.

+

Calendar Islands Yawl by Clint Chase

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This is a much newer design that any of the other boats on this list (which are all, as far as I know, from the mid-early 90s or before). At 15’6" and 5’2" beam, 235lbs, it is very similar in specs to the Apple 16. Appearance wise, the lapstrake upper strakes certainly give a different look, and the fact that it can be built from a kit may be appealing to some (but, the cost was prohibitive to me; it would have increased the total cost of the build by at least a factor of two). The downside, of course, is that it is quite a new design, and while Clint is certainly a designer who has put a ton of time into this boat, it hasn’t been tested in the way that others on this list have.

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Have another boat you have compared with? Share it with dbp@dbpmail.net

+ + diff --git a/_site/apple/index.html b/_site/apple/index.html index 7f5df78..3ed118d 100644 --- a/_site/apple/index.html +++ b/_site/apple/index.html @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ - dbp.io :: + dbp.io :: Apple 16 @@ -24,10 +24,67 @@ work: prl.ccs.neu.edu -

Campion Apple 16

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Build Threod with Photos

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Time Log

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Apple 16 – unofficial website

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+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
Length15ft 10in
Beam5ft 3in
Weight~200lbs
Sail Area100sqft
Plywood6 sheets
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+ +
+

About the Campion Apple 16

+

The Apple 16 is a 15ft 10in lug-yawl designed by Tom Dunderdale of Campion Boats. The official webpage has quite a bit of information about the Apple 16, but it’s sometimes hard to follow (particularly, there are many links that are not styled as links! And other links that are only images…).

+

To buy plans, email Tom: td@campionboats.co.uk, you can find the current plan prices here: http://www.campionboats.co.uk/prices.html. Tom is very responsive over email, so getting the plans is very easy (note the three options: the plain Apple 16, as described on this website, is the Apple AHL there; the Apple 16 plan set is the regular Apple includes plans for the gaff cutter, and the Swedish Apple has more planks).

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Why This Site

+

The Apple 16 is an amazing design, but for various reasons it seems to be less popular than other boats that fit into the same category (general length, weight, etc), even while it seems to have many advantages (described in Comparison section). But, one problem with building a less popular boat is that there are less community resources, and it’s harder to understand, before building, what is going to be involved – hopefully this site, including a detailed log of my own process, which should give at least rough time estimates (everyone works at different paces, has different standards, tools, etc), should help!

+

Also, while Tom is incredibly responsive, the plans themselves can be somewhat overwhelming once you get past the hull (where the step-by-step instructions stop) – the issue is that the boat has had tons of different options added over time (water ballast, 3/4 decking, floorboards, side tanks, etc, etc), and these all overlap in various ways in the plan sheets. This does mean, if you want to customize thing, you can often find guidance in the plans (and if not, Tom is incredibly helpful), but it can be intimidating. So another goal of this site is to show how to interpret the plans into a single boat: the one that I’m building, so that if you want to build a similar one, hopefully you have to do less pondering than I did. I will also include all of the communication that I have had with Tom (clarifying details, etc), but of course the plans themselves you will get from him.

diff --git a/_site/apple/others.html b/_site/apple/others.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c2e4167 --- /dev/null +++ b/_site/apple/others.html @@ -0,0 +1,75 @@ + + + + + + dbp.io :: Apple 16 + + + + + + +

Apple 16 – unofficial website

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Other builds that I’ve found

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Not a single build, but photos from building section of Apple site

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These give various shots of various different builds (many from the beginning are the AHL, then there are many of the decked cutter).

+

Matt Bowser, Swedish Apple with totally custom interior

+ +

Swiss person on Reddit, Swedish Apple (not much info)

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And then it seems to have dropped off (Day 6 was posted, as of this writing, 17 days ago).

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Know of another documented Apple 16 build? Send me info at dbp@dbpmail.net

+ + diff --git a/_site/artifacts/funtal/codemirror.js b/_site/artifacts/funtal/codemirror.js index 272fcd271e11609577a1ca1e0db2dda9c92f7df5..f7dce22a84b4496bca77a0fb217259ed8eca99cc 100644 GIT binary patch delta 22 dcmezUn)UZG(#DtsIP>O95uL2kHO- delta 22 ecmezUn)UZ&@8)3OQIU?{$idD603po-R{#J2 delta 17 YcmeC@=;z>&@8)1wX2BY_k%OHD04AUV?f?J) diff --git a/_site/artifacts/funtal/simple.js b/_site/artifacts/funtal/simple.js index f49ee6e7ceae19ad2689903177ef16094154e151..59fe9569469f4fd66a98c1228c0ed91936d7b5b6 100644 GIT binary patch delta 17 YcmbOuG)IU-zMF%AM@2e*BZmkl03^5rmjD0& delta 17 YcmbOuG)IU-zMF$#nFVXyMh+2904a+EE&u=k diff --git a/_site/artifacts/funtal/web.js b/_site/artifacts/funtal/web.js index 11b2b9d9fa30af4e41a5ddc67ee57a94144219ba..6a084807bfd3b0abc4bf608b2777f4e3a146f982 100644 GIT binary patch delta 25 gcmZ43#=WqOn?t^vgMmjyI=+#km4k6B2b1Js09nBXdjJ3c delta 25 gcmZ43#=WqOn?t^vgJGEkYg{8oD+l9N4kpRN0Ad~o5&!@I diff --git a/_site/css/default.css b/_site/css/default.css index 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Building the OzRacer RV

Summary and some notes

There wasn’t much information out there about this build, even though it seems like a lot of people have made them. In particular, I had no idea how long I should expect it to take (and I underestimated how long it would take – the only number I saw was 10 days, which perhaps a professional, or someone with a helper, could do, but not me!). So this page is an attempt to give more information that might be useful to someone taking on this project. In the end, with every step, including a bunch of time spent stripping off poorly adhered paint and repainting (probably around 15hrs lost), to a rigged boat ready to launch, it took 150.75 hours. As a total amateur.

Also, the plans are pretty detailed, but they aren’t perfect – there are places where they are incomplete, or misleading (e.g., they suggest gluing in the mast step at two different places in the plans – I chose the first one arbitrarily! Even worse, the rudder box instructions say, counter to the pictures, you should glue the framing on after gluing the box together. But if you do that, it’s impossible to drill a countersunk hole on the inside of the rudderbox. So the proposed assembly instructions are essentially impossible) So read everything and try to understand how things fit together – it’s not a matter of just following the instructions in order. However, I am confident that they include enough information that a complete novice (like me) can end up with a boat, but it probably won’t match what is describe exactly, because I don’t think what is describe is actually consistent. Somewhat frustrating, especially given how much love people give to the plan author (as an engineering spec, at least the type I would expect from my entirely different background as a software engineering, I would give it a C-).

-

Another unclear part is when you should be epoxying things! In the appendix, the author says that they strongly prefer coating surfaces at the point that they are getting glued to other things, but then the instructions (and images) don’t seem to do that. Some surfaces really should be done that way, because then they will become in internal places, but others may be better to wait (I realize now, perhaps the inside of sealed compartments need not have been coated at all! Assuming no leaks, they should never see water, and it would have saved time and weight to not coat them). I ended up coating most everything (on both sides) before assembly, somewhat ignoring the advice that places where pieces will later get attached should get masked off (confusingly, one of the main sources of information, aside from the plans, is this site: http://www.bitingmidge.com/boats/ozracer/building/oneminute.html, which suggests pre-coating the entire plywood panels. This might have actually been a much better plan, but clearly contradicts the idea that you shouldn’t pre-coat areas that will get glued. It’s also probably somewhat wasteful, as even scrap parts get coated, and it may make things harder to cut, as epoxy makes the wood a lot stronger). I then sanded the panels before they got glued to other parts, and hopefully it’s all strong enough!

+

Another unclear part is when you should be epoxying things! In the appendix, the author says that they strongly prefer coating surfaces at the point that they are getting glued to other things, but then the instructions (and images) don’t seem to do that. Some surfaces really should be done that way, because then they will become in internal places, but others may be better to wait (I realize now, perhaps the inside of sealed compartments need not have been coated at all! Assuming no leaks, they should never see water, and it would have saved time and weight to not coat them). I ended up coating most everything (on both sides) before assembly, somewhat ignoring the advice that places where pieces will later get attached should get masked off (confusingly, one of the main sources of information, aside from the plans, is this site: http://www.bitingmidge.com/boats/ozracer/building/oneminute.html, which suggests pre-coating the entire plywood panels. This might have actually been a much better plan, but clearly contradicts the idea that you shouldn’t pre-coat areas that will get glued. It’s also probably somewhat wasteful, as even scrap parts get coated, and it may make things harder to cut, as epoxy makes the wood a lot stronger). I then sanded the panels before they got glued to other parts, and hopefully it’s all strong enough!

Tools Used (in order of frequency):