test(e2e): isolate E2E tests and remove destructive actions

[ndhoule]

The E2E suite has a litany of problems, including that it is fairly
complex, doesn't work very well locally and destructively modifies the
workspace, and doesn't isolate tests from each other particularly well.
The tests rely on wrapper scripts to work properly, which makes it
unnecessarily difficult to run E2E tests.

This changeset makes a few changes to the E2E test to help address these
issues The tl;dr is that tests are now self contained without any need
for wrapper scripts and are better isolated. Other notable changes
include:

• Each test now gets its own isolated Verdaccio registry; the Verdaccio
  registry storage is no longer shared between tests and is no longer
  persisted between test invocations.
• The CLI is now published to the (isolated) Verdaccio registry from a
  temporary workspace, which is a copy of the project workspace. We no
  longer publish to Verdaccio from the project workspace. This ensures
  that destructive actions that occur on publish don't alter the
  workspace, and ensures that one test can't modify the registry in a
  way that impacts another test.
• The tests no longer rely on wrapper scripts (which ran vitest in a
  subprocess and didn't always work locally (depending on your PATH).
• I also converted the tests to TypeScript while I was at it.

Theoretically, these changes mean we can run E2E tests concurrently,
though I haven't done that in this changeset. We could also now merge
the E2E vitest configuration into the primary Vitest config (though I
haven't done that here, either).

[github-actions]

📊 Benchmark results

Comparing with 2fba447

• Dependency count: 1,171 ⬆️ 0.17% increase vs. 2fba447
• Package size: 284 MB ⬆️ 0.09% increase vs. 2fba447
• Number of ts-expect-error directives: 716 ⬆️ 0.14% increase vs. 2fba447

[serhalp]

Looks great, thanks for improving it! 💯