New pinout images for ATtiny88

[SpenceKonde]

Just needs second set of digital pin numbers for the MH-Tiny pinout.

Pins 0 ~ 13 are the same
PB6 is not numbered (used as CLKI)
PB7 is 14.
Then PA2, PA3 are 15, 16
PA0, PA1 are 17, 18
PC0 ~ PC5 are 19 ~ 24
PC7 is 25
PC6 (reset) is 26
USB on PD1 (D+), PD2 (D-)

The boards are actually pretty neat...

[pcfreak1201]

Äh, I made a mistake on the USB pinout, ignore it! USB is on PD1 (D+), PD2 (D-)...
Here are two links:

1. cutted bitmap of the picture above, grabbed on the sellers page (https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32953202750.html):
   https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zXLN2fGS2JdM5OJh_QdomA0WIv5q1Zgs/view?usp=sharing
2. Picture of the PCB, cutted, done by me:
   https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R6Rtnqiu24vsnLpNykzursJc3aVWpz09/view?usp=sharing
   May be it helps someone in designing nice pinout graphics :-)

[prandeamus]

Nice work! It's a shame that this board has been "orphaned" by the original designer. (Best I could find is https://mhetlive.nodebb.com/category/12/main-boards-new-mh-et-live-tiny88-16-0mhz). The board has presumably been cloned ad infinitum and is available from multiple suppliers but the official arduino board definition is little more than a patched Digispark. I'm really glad to see ATTinyCore take up the support challenge!

[SpenceKonde]

Okay, I am going to pull this in for next release.

[SpenceKonde]

Which I did...

[arduino12]

Hi @SpenceKonde !

Can you add the cheap and common MH-Tiny pinout to the ATtiny88.md page,

Also please tell us how you create the nicely labeled graphics pinouts on that page, so we can improve @pcfreak1201 pinout:

Äh, I made a mistake on the USB pinout, ignore it! USB is on PD1 (D+), PD2 (D-)...

I got 10pcs of them for 17$ so I can verify the pinout if needed :)

Also found this top-bottom picture if it helps:

Can also add a section about achieving low current consumption (0.1uA!) for this board,
I found it by playing with one and I am sure it will help others:

• Desolder 78L05 to save 6mA.
• Desolder 16MHz clock oscillator (EN pin is shorted underneath to VCC so have to desolder) to save 2mA.
• Desolder or cut green PWR LED 5V trace between regulator and RST PU resistor to save 3mA.
• Desolder or cut USB_D- 1K PU resistor 5V trace between resistor and 5V to save 1.7mA (after this you have to program using ISP because the micronucleus USB won't work without this resistor and the external clock oscillator).
• Disable BOD, DWEN, and set internal RC OSC using those fuses.

#include <avr/sleep.h>

int main()
{
	ADCSRA &= ~(1<<ADEN);					// Disable ADC
	set_sleep_mode(SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);			// Set deepest sleep mode
	sleep_mode();						// Go to sleep
}

Thanks and let me know if I can help with the pinout!

[leNnard-808]

Can you elaborate a little further on how you optimized the power consumption? In deep sleep I was getting 5mA at 5V, after desoldering the PW LED around 3.5mA, but once I desoldered the regulator I was reading 4.4mA, therefore higher consumption than before. At 3.3V i got around 1.2mA, which makes sense.

I am not getting anywhere close to µA, in fact, I already fried 2 of the boards trying to figure it out 😆

Which pins are you using to power the board and at what voltage? I would really appreciate some help.

[NorbertRoller]

Hi, I was working on the same subject since a few weeks and came to a similar conclusion like leNnard-808 and arduino12.
As my project is permanently installed in a car (mobile home) with a 12V environment, I needed to have a Voltage converter down to 3.3V.

I choose the BA33BC0FP-E2 from Rohm that has a much lower quiescent current ~10uA than the 78L05 with 5-6mA.

Unfortunately the pinout is different and therefore it can not be soldered directly onto the pads.
I will keep the 16MHz external oscillator and the USB-Port.
This dropped the power consumption in sleep mode from 6.5mA to 1.5mA.