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<title>Ford Explorer Maintenance Tips</title>
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<td ALIGN=LEFT VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="140"><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Editor</font></b>
<br><b><a href="mailto:explorer@4x4central.com">Rick Horwitz</a></b>
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<br><font color="#000099"><font size=+3>Explorer/Navajo</font></font>
<br><font color="#000099"><font size=+3>Maintenance and Performance Tips</font></font></center>
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<td><font face="Arial,Helvetica">These tips are not endorsed by Ford. They
are provided for use at your own risk and discretion. The tips have come
from truck owners who would like to share the information they have gathered
about the Explorer. If you would like to contribute to this page please
send your tips to: <a href="mailto:explorer@4x4central.com"><i>explorer@4x4central.com</i>.</a></font></td>
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<hr SIZE=1 WIDTH="45%"><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=-1><a href="tips.htm#tranny">Transmission/Clutch</a>
| <a href="tips.htm#bearing">Front Wheel Bearings</a>
| <a href="tips.htm#chips">Computer Enhancement</a></font></font>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=-1><a href="tips.htm#rfi">Radio
Frequency Interference</a> | <a href="tips.htm#battery">Auxillary
Battery</a> | <a href="tips.htm#mas">Servicing
the MAS</a></font></font>
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<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=-1><a href="http://www.4x4central.com/discrear.html">Disc
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<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=-1><a href="http://www.4x4central.com/duffstabilizer.htm">Steering
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Bar Lift</a></font></font>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=-1><a href="http://www.4x4central.com/discswap.html">Disc
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Axle Seal R&amp;R</a> | <a href="http://www.explorer4x4.com/tips2.html#hub">Manual
Hub Conversion</a></font></font>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=-1><a href="http://www.explorer4x4.com/atlas_2.html">Atlas
II Installation &amp; Review</a> | <a href="reviews.html">KKM
Tru Rev Installation &amp; Review</a></font></font></center>
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<p><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Last Updated 10/1/99</font></b></center>
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<tr>
<td BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF"><a NAME="tranny"></a><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#008000"><font size=+2>Mazda
5 Speed Manual Transmission</font></font></font></b>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Many Explorer/Navajo owners
have went with synthetic transmission fluid hoping to extend the life of
the transmisson. I use Redline's Mercon/Dexron III synthetic fluid. Synthetic
fluid handles high temperatures and pressures better then conventional
fluids.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Another preventive maintenance
tip is to replace the rubber plugs in the shift rail bores with steel freeze
plugs. The rubber plugs have a tendency to dry up and leak, and/or fall
out. The plugs are located in the transmission top cover and face towards
the rear of the truck.The part numbers for the metal plugs are: Dana #219-3052
or Dorman #555-108, you will need 3 plugs to do the job.&nbsp;</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>The hydraulic clutch, slave
cylinder/throwout bearing is another item you should pay close attention
to. After time, the slave cylinder fails to release the clutch completely.
If you are having trouble shifting into 1st and reverse while stationary
or if your truck creeps forward with the clutch pedal depressed the slave
cylinder/throwout bearing is probably at fault. Unfortunately there is
no easy fix here as the transmission must be removed to replace the combination
slave cylinder and throwout bearing.</font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
<p><a NAME="bearing"></a><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#008000"><font size=+2>Wheel
Bearings</font></font></font></b>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>I have found that when running
large tires on the Explorer a severe jolt to the wheel can cause the outer
spindle locknut to come loose, causing excessive play in the wheel bearing
(loss of preload).&nbsp;</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>In the stock configuration,
the inner spindle nut has a pin which engages a keyed washer. The keyed
washer keeps the inner nut from turning but there is nothing to keep the
outer nut from breaking loose except the torque that is applied to it.&nbsp;</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>Warn now has a solution to
this problem. Warn part #37207 (conversion kit) replaces the stock keyed
washer with a new washer which incorporates slots instead of holes for
locking purposes. The new outer locknut has been drilled for three small
allen screws. These screws when tightened will engage one or more of the
slots in the washer. Combined with the stock pinned inner locknut this
makes for a nearly bullet proof set up. I have yet to experiance a problem
with the new locknuts.</font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
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<p><a NAME="chips"></a><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#008000"><font size=+2>High
Performance Computer Chips</font></font></font></b>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>There has been a lot of
discussion as to which chip is best for the Explorer. I only have experience
with the Hypertech chip.&nbsp;</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size=+1>After installing the Hypertech
module in the computers service port bay I noticed that the engine would
pull harder in the mid-range and top-end. The engine is now able to turn
at least 500rpm more than stock (stock 4200rpm, modified 4700rpm) as indicated
by the factory tachometer. This is definitely a plus when you need the
extra top end. The Hyper tech chip also disables the stock speed limiter
which kicks in at about 95 or so. I haven't noticed any change in fuel
economy at all. The biggest improvement for my vehicle, was that it eliminated
the pinging I was getting at freeway speeds on 105deg and hotter days in
Phoenix. The pinging has been completely eliminated and I still run regular
unleaded.</font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
<p><a NAME="rfi"></a><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#008000"><font size=+2>Radio
Frequency Interference</font></font></font></b>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>Anyone
using a ham radio or C.B. in their Explorer has most likely heard the effects
of RFI. The interference sounds like a high ambient noise level and the
reciever possibly shows many S-units of signal strength even when there
is no one transmitting. The in-tank mounted electric fuel pump is the source
of this problem.&nbsp;</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>Fortunately
Ford has a fix for this problem which is covered under the original warranty.
If the truck is out of warranty you can get the parts and do the job yourself
or have it performed at a shop. The Service Bulletin that covers this problem
is # 9117-5. The part you need is a Filter Kit, Ford Part # E7PZ9B357A.</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>Although
the addition of the filter did cure about 90% of the problem some interference
is still noticeable on a few of the Ham Radio bands. Even so, it sure sounds
much better then before the fix.</font></font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
<p><a NAME="battery"></a><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#008000"><font size=+2>Adding
an Auxilary Battery</font></font></font></b>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>Where
in the heck did you find the room to mount a secondbattery?&nbsp;</font></font></font>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>I
removed the stock windshield washer/coolant tank and cut the&nbsp;<a href="ricksbatt.jpg"><img SRC="ricksbattsml.jpg" ALT="Location of second battery" HSPACE=5 BORDER=1 height=261 width=175 align=RIGHT></a>tank
apart between the two seperate compartments. I discarded the washer fluid
tank and kept the coolant tank. I then mounted the coolant tank to the
Explorers fuel tank vent, which has two round plastic caps on top of it.
The coolant tank is now attached to the vent housing with a piece of perforated
metal straping.&nbsp;</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>With
the coolant tank relocated,&nbsp; there is plenty of room for a second
Optima battery. I mounted a steel battery tray to the inner fender using
a block of wood as a spacer to hold the tray level. The wood is bolted
to the metal ledge and the tray is attached to the wood block.</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>I replaced
the stock washer fluid tank with the smallest tank I could find at a junkyard
(I think it was out of an old Dodge). I mounted it next to the master cylinder,
towards the fender.&nbsp;</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>The
second battery is charged using a continous duty solenoid as the isolation
device. With the three position switch mounted on the dash I can charge
both batteries, isolate the auxilary battery, or jump start myself.</font></font></font>
<p><a NAME="mas"></a><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#009900"><font size=+2>Fix
for a Missing Engine</font></font></font></b>
<p><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>Posted
by Jack Lobdell&nbsp;</font></font></font></b>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>Many
Explorer owners have experienced "bogging" or "missing" or just unsteady
performance in their 4.0 engine and have been frustrated by lots of expensive
"non-fixes".&nbsp; After riding on a plane next to a manufacturing trainer
from a company that builds OEM replacement auto electrical components for
places like AutoZone and CarQuest, I tried his tip. He says that Ford have
these problems more than other makes and the 4.0 engine seems to be more
susceptible to the problem than other Ford engines.</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>It
seems that a "missing" engine culprit is actually the computer's sensor
inside the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). It eventually just gets a little
dirty or builds up its own patina in the filament wires. A dirty or slightly
patinated filament will send the wrong air reading to the computer, saying
it is getting more air than it really is and the computer will tell the
EFI to send in the wrong mix of fuel, thus, the bogging. The patina seems
to form faster if you live in a damp climate. I don't so here in New Mexico
mine went 82K before it developed a small "flat idle spot"…it would run
just fine but the idle began to drop every few revs from 700 to 500. No
big deal.&nbsp;</font></font></font>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>If
you have had bogging or missing or idle spots, about every 25K miles plan
on this quick cleaning job:</font></font></font>
<br><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>When
your engine is cool, remove the wiring clip from the side of the black
plastic sensor part of the MAF aluminum body. To remove the MAF interior
sensor wire, you will need a Security Star (Size T15 or T20) screwdriver
or screwdriver bit for a power</font></font></font> <font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>screwdriver.
Remove the two security star-head screws and carefully remove the sensor.
You will see the two sensor filaments…they look almost like the filaments
on a light bulb. Carefully spray the filaments with an O2 safe carburator
cleaner, such as Gumout. Let it dry thoroughly. I help mine along with
a careful blast or two of canned dry air. While it is drying carefully
wipe the aluminum mount surface of the MAF body if there is any dust there,
but be careful not to</font></font></font> <font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000"><font size=+1>get
dust in the mount hole. When the sensor is dry, replace the sensor back
in the MAF body and secure with the security star-head screws. These don't
need to be torqued down, just simply hand tight. Replace the wiring clip.
Then start up your engine. You should have solved any bogging or missing
problems. My flat idle spot is ancient history.</font></font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
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