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<td width="100%"><b><p ALIGN="CENTER"><font color="#000080"><big>Instructions and tips for
installation of </big><br>
<big>Regency Railings' ornamental iron baluster system </big><br>
<big>on a closed or open stringer</big></font></p>
</b><p ALIGN="CENTER"><small><b><font color="#000080">(Try Page Up/Page Down keys for
easiest viewing)</font></b></small></p>
<p><font color="#000080">1. All Regency Railings designs require a specific baluster space
for staircases and straight railings. The most common baluster space required is 30&quot;
for the staircase and 32&quot; for straight railings, however, some designs are different
and some designs do change with the degree of inclination. <b>Always check your specific
application in the line drawings to determine the correct baluster space before you begin.</b></font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">2. For installation on a closed stringer, construct the knee wall
in accordance with the trim specifications. In most installations the top cap should be a
maximum of 4&quot; vertical from the front edge of step or 4&quot; above landing, however,
3 3/4&quot; is preferred to allow for any variance that might occur. <b>Always check your
specific application in the line drawings to determine the correct maximum height.</b></font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">3. The knee wall must be secure! This wall will be the base for
the balustrade system.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">4. Always begin the layout from the bottom of the stairs and work
toward the top.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">5. The first piece of the system will be either a plain vertical
bar inserted into the stringer at 1/8&quot; or 1/4&quot; from the plumb edge of the knee
wall (for installations like Tuscany and Regency) or the vertical bar will be attached to
the decorative panel (for installations like Michelle and Tiffany).</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">6. Determine the center measurement by plumbing up center marks
equal to the width of the individual panels or multiple piece panel design <b>(this
measurement can be found in the line drawings for you particular application)</b> on the
outside of the skirt board. Measure the distance up the rake to determine the center
measurement.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">7. Lay out your center marks on the top of the knee wall. If a
newel post is required at a landing, lay it out at this time also.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">8. Let any partial panel that might be needed come into the
newel.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">&nbsp;9. Layout of a landing or any level railing should always
be from the center out toward the edges. This allows for equal cuts on both ends should
the landing or level railing not require full panels. If the run is longer than 10' (or
other local code) and a newel is required for strength, lay out the panels to center on
that newel. A plain 1 1/2&quot; x 1 1/2&quot; square metal tube can be used as the newel
or use alternative per specifications.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">10. Occasionally, on longer landings, you may be required to add
strength to the newel. One way the additional strength can be attained is by cutting a
piece of metal to resemble an airplane tail with a small base. The base will attach to the
knee wall and the tail is welded to the metal newel.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">11. Now is the time to cut and lay out the wooden handrail as
normal, and lay it on top of the knee wall.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">12. Transfer your marks from the knee wall to the handrail. Make
sure the center marks are as accurate as possible, because in several designs all panels
will weld together later during installation and must pull together properly.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">13. Accuracy of the above step can be checked with one panel and
one piece of the vertical bar by temporarily clamping the bar and panel together and then
plumbing it on the center marks.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">14. After transferring your marks onto the handrail, drill the
correct size holes into the knee wall and into the handrail. Most designs will require
that you chisel the holes square in both the knee wall and handrail. Check for fit. Using
a 6&quot; long piece of the vertical bar, place it into all holes. While the holes in the
knee wall should remain extremely tight, the holes in the hand rail should allow the bar
to slide in easily. You should also check the angle with a pitch block. </font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">15. Begin preparing the decorative ironwork at this time.</font></p>
<p ALIGN="CENTER"><b><font color="#000080">Remember: Always wear proper safety equipment
when cutting or welding</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">&nbsp;Before you begin the installation of the decorative iron
panels, the following tools should be available: Small sledge hammer - C clamp - strap
clamps - vice grips - gloves - square mortise - skill or similar saw (with blade for
cutting metal) - welder (wire welder will lessen cleanup) - grinder and liquid nail.</font></p>
</b><p><font color="#000080">1. Please check your order to ensure you have all the parts
needed to complete the installation.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">2. Now is the time to begin cutting the metal verticals attached
to each decorative iron panel. Always allow for a minimum of 1 1/2&quot; of the vertical
bar to be inserted into the knee wall and 1&quot; to be inserted into the wooden handrail.
This should be just a straight cut.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">3. Grind all cut ends to allow for a smoother entry into the
holes.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">4. Arrange the decorative iron panels (per layout chosen by
client) on the floor or other work area to ensure the correct design. Remember, start at
the bottom of the staircase with the vertical and work toward the top of the staircase.</font></p>
<b><p ALIGN="CENTER"><font color="#000080">Now you are ready to begin the installation !</font></p>
</b><p><font color="#000080">5. Apply a small amount of liquid nail into each hole before
inserting the vertical or decorative panel. Be certain to check each panel for any slight
alignment or adjustments at this time. Continue this same procedure until you have
installed all full panels. Any partial panel that might be needed will be dealt with
later. </font></p>
<p ALIGN="CENTER"><font color="#000080"><b>IMPORTANT: Never weld the decorative iron
panels together before the handrail is fitted !!!</b></font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">6. After all decorative iron panels are in place, begin fitting
the wooden handrail on top of the decorative ironwork.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">7. If you are installing Tuscany, Tiffany or Michelle, once
proper fit of the handrail is achieved, (pulling rail with strap clamps to attain fit
might be needed to plumb to newel or wall), proceed by beginning your welding at all
points where the panels touch. This does not necessarily have to be a strength weld. It is
needed mostly to tie the panels together for that true custom look</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">8. When reaching the top of the staircase or ending into a wall
and a partial panel was needed, now is the time to cut and install these partial panels.
After cutting and welding any partial panel, please be certain to ensure that the partial
panel will still pass the 4&quot; code. Some additional pieces may need to be taken from
your discarded cuts. <b>This is especially true with the Tiffany design. </b></font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">9. After all welds are completed, be sure to grind each weld
smooth and prime paint all welds to prevent rusting.</font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">10. Congratulations!! You are now finished installing a Regency
Railings prefabricated ornamental iron balustrade system.</font></p>
<b><p ALIGN="CENTER"><font color="#000080">Instructions and tips for installation on an
open stringer</font></p>
</b><p><font color="#000080">1. The baluster space requirements for installation on an
open stringer are exactly the same as the closed stringer. Again, the most common baluster
space is 30&quot; for staircases and 32&quot; for level railings. However, <b>you must
check your specific application in the line drawings because some designs will vary when
changing the degree of inclination. </b></font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">2. As with any custom fabrication, a top and bottom channel or
flat metal frame must be constructed and the Regency Railings' panels will be inserted and
welded between this framework. <b>Regency Railings products are not designed to be
inserted directly into the stair treads.</b></font></p>
<p><font color="#000080">3. Please follow the layout procedure as described in the closed
stringer application. The layout is exactly the same. </font></p>
<b><p ALIGN="CENTER"><font color="#000080">IMPORTANT</font></p>
</b><p><font color="#000080">4. The base of installation (channel or flat metal) on an
open stringer usually starts approximately 3&quot; lower than that of a closed stringer
application. Therefore, you may be required to add an additional height (above or below)
your original framework to pass the minimum handrail height requirements in your area.
This is especially true if you are using a typical iron or brass handrail. If you will
allow for a second framework channel with a height of 3 1/2&quot; during the construction
of this additional space, it can be filled with a coordinating scrollwork designed to
enhance the Regency Railings open stringer application or it can be left empty and still
pass the 4&quot; sphere code. </font></td>
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<p align="left"><small><font face="Times New Roman"><strong>All pictures, drawings and
information herein are the property of&nbsp; Regency Railings and are protected by U.S
Patent Nos.&nbsp; 5,820,111; 6,059,269 and other copy rights and patents current or
pending. They are intended for use in planning and design prior to using our products. Any
use or reproduction for other purposes is strictly prohibited and violators will be
prosecuted.</strong></font></small></p>
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