For information on anything drone related read Oscar Liang he has everything from tutorials to reviews. The TinyWhoop subreddit has a lot of good information. And finally, club members have compiled some lessons learned for beginners and recommendations for first quads in a Google Slides presentation.
Not sure you want to commit? The Eachine E010 is less than $20 and comes with a radio transmitter. The parts are compatible with a Tiny Whoop so you can upgrade it to FPV if you want to get more serious.
What you need to get started:
Quadcopter and Camera
- Tinywhoop class FPV racing drone, check out our parts list here.
- If you don't want to build your own, there are pre-built tiny whoop class quads, and some kits that contain the items below. Look for the term BNF, or Bind-and-Fly if you want to get your own transmitter. Look for the term RTF, or Ready-to-Fly, if you want more included.
- NewBeeDrone makes a reliable, high performance tiny whoop, but you pay a bit more. Domestic hobby shops may also have some of these more reliable, but pricier options.
- Cheaper options can be purchased on variety of online sites. They may be shipped domestically or often from China. [Banggood] is a distributor with several tiny whoop class quads in stock.
- After you begin enjoying flying, and master basic controls, you may find you want to start upgrading. This can be done from a custom build as well as pre-built quads. Common first upgrades include motors, and battery connectors.
Transmitter (Radio Controller)
- The FrSky Taranis-Q-X7 is by far the best bet for your money. Also is based on OpenTX, an open source firmware for radios.
- FrSky also released a model called the X-Lite that is smaller and lighter, and shaped like a video game controller.
- Hobby grade transmitters like these, that is transmitters that are resusable and much more powerful than toy transmitters, have the added benefit of being able to plug into your computer and used with simulators. Liftoff is a popular simulator available on Steam.
- Three options are a screen, box goggles, or 2 screen low-profile goggles. We use a 5.8GHz signal that looks similar to analog color television. Some people ask if you can use your phone an a WiFi or Bluetooth based signal that comes on some toy drones - these signals have too much latency and the field of view is often too small for racing or enjoyable first person view (FPV) flying/
- Screens ok if they come with a kit, or if you prefer to still be able to see your surroundings. They are less immersive.
- Box goggles are lower priced, and their large screen are quite immersive. Some club members tried the FXT MARVEL VISION or the Eachine 800D
- The leading low-profile 2-screen goggle manufacturer is Fat Shark
- If you have glasses or other significant vision issues you can: look into projected goggle images like the FXT Viper, wear contacts, or buy lens inserts for 2 screen goggles
- Oscar also has a review of a bunch of goggles here
- Option 1. A legit lipo battery charger. Make sure it can also charge high-voltage (HV) LiPo batteries like this one. And make sure you have a power cable for it. If you dont have one lying around you can use, here is one you can buy. This option is preferred if your goggles or transmitter also need a dedicated LiPo charger vs. charging them with the a USB or wall cable. Or, if you're going to want to also fly quads with more powerful batteries (2s-6s).
- Option 2. A 1-cell (1s) lipo battery charger. This option is preferred if you're only going to fly tiny whoops in the foreseeable future. This option allows you to charge up to 6.
Parallel Charging Board
- If you go with option 1 above, you'll also want a parallel charging board like this one. Make sure it will take PH2.0 connectors!
- Optional, but very helpful. Like this one
- Lots of LiPo batteries! If you'll be flying a tiny whoop: