diff --git a/.buildkite/ftr_configs.yml b/.buildkite/ftr_configs.yml
index c838c83e5253bc..9648acf051022a 100644
--- a/.buildkite/ftr_configs.yml
+++ b/.buildkite/ftr_configs.yml
@@ -244,6 +244,7 @@ enabled:
   - x-pack/test/detection_engine_api_integration/security_and_spaces/bundled_prebuilt_rules_package/config.ts
   - x-pack/test/detection_engine_api_integration/security_and_spaces/large_prebuilt_rules_package/config.ts
   - x-pack/test/detection_engine_api_integration/security_and_spaces/update_prebuilt_rules_package/config.ts
+  - x-pack/test/disable_ems/config.ts
   - x-pack/test/encrypted_saved_objects_api_integration/config.ts
   - x-pack/test/examples/config.ts
   - x-pack/test/fleet_api_integration/config.agent.ts
diff --git a/x-pack/test/disable_ems/README.md b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000000..22e9e59db4d486
--- /dev/null
+++ b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+# FTR tests for map.includeElasticMapsService: false
+
+Verify Kibana functionallity when connection to Elastic Maps Service is disabled
diff --git a/x-pack/test/disable_ems/config.ts b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/config.ts
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000000..f1b8816f43ef2b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/config.ts
@@ -0,0 +1,30 @@
+/*
+ * Copyright Elasticsearch B.V. and/or licensed to Elasticsearch B.V. under one
+ * or more contributor license agreements. Licensed under the Elastic License
+ * 2.0; you may not use this file except in compliance with the Elastic License
+ * 2.0.
+ */
+
+import { resolve } from 'path';
+import { FtrConfigProviderContext } from '@kbn/test';
+import { services, pageObjects } from './ftr_provider_context';
+
+export default async function ({ readConfigFile }: FtrConfigProviderContext) {
+  const kibanaFunctionalConfig = await readConfigFile(
+    require.resolve('../functional/config.base.js')
+  );
+  
+  return {
+    ...kibanaFunctionalConfig.getAll(),
+    testFiles: [require.resolve('./tests')],
+    services,
+    pageObjects,
+    junit: {
+      reportName: `Kibana Maps without access to Elastic Maps Service`,
+    },
+    kbnTestServer: {
+      ...kibanaFunctionalConfig.get('kbnTestServer'),
+      serverArgs: [...kibanaFunctionalConfig.get('kbnTestServer.serverArgs'), `--map.includeElasticMapsService=false`],
+    },
+  };
+}
diff --git a/x-pack/test/disable_ems/ftr_provider_context.ts b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/ftr_provider_context.ts
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000000..c641b4efcc4937
--- /dev/null
+++ b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/ftr_provider_context.ts
@@ -0,0 +1,13 @@
+/*
+ * Copyright Elasticsearch B.V. and/or licensed to Elasticsearch B.V. under one
+ * or more contributor license agreements. Licensed under the Elastic License
+ * 2.0; you may not use this file except in compliance with the Elastic License
+ * 2.0.
+ */
+
+import { GenericFtrProviderContext } from '@kbn/test';
+import { services } from '../functional/services';
+import { pageObjects } from '../functional/page_objects';
+
+export type FtrProviderContext = GenericFtrProviderContext<typeof services, typeof pageObjects>;
+export { services, pageObjects };
diff --git a/x-pack/test/disable_ems/kbn_archive.json b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/kbn_archive.json
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000000..d272371b4be775
--- /dev/null
+++ b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/kbn_archive.json
@@ -0,0 +1,50 @@
+{
+  "attributes": {
+    "fieldAttrs":"{}",
+    "fieldFormatMap":"{}",
+    "fields":"[]",
+    "name":"logstash-*",
+    "runtimeFieldMap":"{}",
+    "sourceFilters":"[]",
+    "timeFieldName":"@timestamp",
+    "title":"logstash-*",
+    "typeMeta":"{}"
+  },
+  "coreMigrationVersion":"8.8.0",
+  "created_at":"2023-09-07T14:49:04.891Z",
+  "id":"fd405dbb-002b-4caa-aae1-0893e5ffb75b",
+  "managed":false,
+  "references":[],
+  "type":"index-pattern",
+  "typeMigrationVersion":"8.0.0",
+  "updated_at":"2023-09-07T14:49:04.891Z",
+  "version":"WzEwLDFd"
+}
+
+{
+  "id": "ee65a3b0-4d8d-11ee-a8ed-97fb2d02a957",
+  "type": "map",
+  "namespaces": [
+    "default"
+  ],
+  "updated_at": "2023-09-07T14:50:48.043Z",
+  "created_at": "2023-09-07T14:50:48.043Z",
+  "version": "WzE1LDFd",
+  "attributes": {
+    "title": "mvt documents with labels",
+    "description": "",
+    "layerListJSON": "[{\"sourceDescriptor\":{\"geoField\":\"geo.coordinates\",\"scalingType\":\"MVT\",\"id\":\"57798aca-8a4e-4c35-9225-e8d4133ae8a7\",\"type\":\"ES_SEARCH\",\"applyGlobalQuery\":true,\"applyGlobalTime\":true,\"applyForceRefresh\":true,\"filterByMapBounds\":true,\"tooltipProperties\":[],\"sortField\":\"\",\"sortOrder\":\"desc\",\"topHitsGroupByTimeseries\":false,\"topHitsSplitField\":\"\",\"topHitsSize\":1,\"indexPatternRefName\":\"layer_0_source_index_pattern\"},\"id\":\"00c8d672-dc32-42cc-9e11-1c43d3e9a3be\",\"label\":null,\"minZoom\":0,\"maxZoom\":24,\"alpha\":0.75,\"visible\":true,\"style\":{\"type\":\"VECTOR\",\"properties\":{\"icon\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"value\":\"marker\"}},\"fillColor\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"color\":\"#54B399\"}},\"lineColor\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"color\":\"#41937c\"}},\"lineWidth\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"size\":0}},\"iconSize\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"size\":6}},\"iconOrientation\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"orientation\":0}},\"labelText\":{\"type\":\"DYNAMIC\",\"options\":{\"field\":{\"label\":\"bytes\",\"name\":\"bytes\",\"origin\":\"source\",\"type\":\"number\",\"supportsAutoDomain\":true,\"isUnsupported\":false}}},\"labelColor\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"color\":\"#000000\"}},\"labelSize\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"size\":14}},\"labelZoomRange\":{\"options\":{\"useLayerZoomRange\":true,\"minZoom\":0,\"maxZoom\":24}},\"labelBorderColor\":{\"type\":\"STATIC\",\"options\":{\"color\":\"#FFFFFF\"}},\"symbolizeAs\":{\"options\":{\"value\":\"circle\"}},\"labelBorderSize\":{\"options\":{\"size\":\"SMALL\"}},\"labelPosition\":{\"options\":{\"position\":\"CENTER\"}}},\"isTimeAware\":true},\"includeInFitToBounds\":true,\"type\":\"MVT_VECTOR\",\"joins\":[],\"disableTooltips\":false}]",
+    "mapStateJSON": "{\"adHocDataViews\":[],\"zoom\":2.19,\"center\":{\"lon\":-116.75537,\"lat\":55.05932},\"timeFilters\":{\"from\":\"2015-09-19T21:21:45.309Z\",\"to\":\"2015-09-23T01:33:44.867Z\"},\"refreshConfig\":{\"isPaused\":true,\"interval\":60000},\"query\":{\"query\":\"\",\"language\":\"kuery\"},\"filters\":[],\"settings\":{\"autoFitToDataBounds\":false,\"backgroundColor\":\"#ffffff\",\"customIcons\":[],\"disableInteractive\":false,\"disableTooltipControl\":false,\"hideToolbarOverlay\":false,\"hideLayerControl\":false,\"hideViewControl\":false,\"initialLocation\":\"LAST_SAVED_LOCATION\",\"fixedLocation\":{\"lat\":0,\"lon\":0,\"zoom\":2},\"browserLocation\":{\"zoom\":2},\"keydownScrollZoom\":false,\"maxZoom\":24,\"minZoom\":0,\"showScaleControl\":false,\"showSpatialFilters\":true,\"showTimesliderToggleButton\":true,\"spatialFiltersAlpa\":0.3,\"spatialFiltersFillColor\":\"#DA8B45\",\"spatialFiltersLineColor\":\"#DA8B45\"}}",
+    "uiStateJSON": "{\"isLayerTOCOpen\":true,\"openTOCDetails\":[\"00c8d672-dc32-42cc-9e11-1c43d3e9a3be\"]}"
+  },
+  "references": [
+    {
+      "name": "layer_0_source_index_pattern",
+      "type": "index-pattern",
+      "id": "fd405dbb-002b-4caa-aae1-0893e5ffb75b"
+    }
+  ],
+  "managed": false,
+  "coreMigrationVersion": "8.8.0",
+  "typeMigrationVersion": "8.4.0"
+}
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/x-pack/test/disable_ems/tests/fonts.ts b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/tests/fonts.ts
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000000..9eb187969ae51f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/tests/fonts.ts
@@ -0,0 +1,33 @@
+/*
+ * Copyright Elasticsearch B.V. and/or licensed to Elasticsearch B.V. under one
+ * or more contributor license agreements. Licensed under the Elastic License
+ * 2.0; you may not use this file except in compliance with the Elastic License
+ * 2.0.
+ */
+
+import expect from '@kbn/expect';
+
+export default function ({ getService, getPageObjects }: FtrProviderContext) {
+  const PageObjects = getPageObjects(['maps']);
+  const security = getService('security');
+
+  describe('Fonts', function () {
+    before(async () => {
+      await security.testUser.setRoles(['test_logstash_reader', 'global_maps_all']);
+      await PageObjects.maps.loadSavedMap('mvt documents with labels');
+    });
+
+    after(async () => {
+      await security.testUser.restoreDefaults();
+    });
+
+    it('should load map with labels', async () => {
+      const doesLayerExist = await PageObjects.maps.doesLayerExist('logstash-*');
+      expect(doesLayerExist).to.equal(true);
+      const tooltipText = await PageObjects.maps.getLayerTocTooltipMsg('logstash-*');
+      expect(tooltipText).to.equal(
+        'logstash-*\nFound 14,000 documents.\nResults narrowed by global time'
+      );
+    });
+  });
+}
\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/x-pack/test/disable_ems/tests/index.ts b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/tests/index.ts
new file mode 100644
index 00000000000000..5f4a769a138e16
--- /dev/null
+++ b/x-pack/test/disable_ems/tests/index.ts
@@ -0,0 +1,33 @@
+/*
+ * Copyright Elasticsearch B.V. and/or licensed to Elasticsearch B.V. under one
+ * or more contributor license agreements. Licensed under the Elastic License
+ * 2.0; you may not use this file except in compliance with the Elastic License
+ * 2.0.
+ */
+
+import type { FtrProviderContext } from '../ftr_provider_context';
+
+export default function ({ loadTestFile, getService }: FtrProviderContext) {
+  const kibanaServer = getService('kibanaServer');
+  const esArchiver = getService('esArchiver');
+  const browser = getService('browser');
+
+  describe('disable Elastic Maps Service', () => {
+    before(async () => {
+      await esArchiver.loadIfNeeded('x-pack/test/functional/es_archives/logstash_functional');
+      await kibanaServer.importExport.load(
+        'x-pack/test/disable_ems/kbn_archive.json'
+      );
+      await browser.setWindowSize(1600, 1000);
+    });
+
+    after(async () => {
+      await esArchiver.unload('x-pack/test/functional/es_archives/maps/data');
+      await kibanaServer.importExport.unload(
+        'x-pack/test/disable_ems/kbn_archive.json'
+      );
+    });
+
+    loadTestFile(require.resolve('./fonts'));
+  });
+}