diff --git a/tests/PLAYWRIGHT.md b/tests/PLAYWRIGHT.md
new file mode 100644
index 000000000000..37c8e16d0bd7
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@@ -0,0 +1,198 @@
+# Headless tests with Playwright
+
+There are currently 3 general automated tests:
+
+1. `jest` tests against real English content (and some code)
+1. `jest` tests against fixture content
+1. `playwright` tests against fixture content (What this document is about!)
+
+## Quickstart
+
+Just like with regular `jest` tests, if you haven't already done so...
+
+```sh
+npm run build
+```
+
+Now, to run all the tests:
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test
+```
+
+That command will automatically start a server (on `localhost:4000`) for
+the duration of test suite. It then finds all `tests/**/*.spec.ts`
+files and run them by using `Google Chrome` as the underlying browser.
+
+If you have [set up a local Elasticsearch server](../search/elasticsearch-locally.md) (`localhost:9200`) the
+headless tests will test doing site-searches if you've set up
+an `ELASTICSEARCH_URL` environment variable.
+
+## Introduction
+
+The best documentation is <https://playwright.dev/> and this documentation
+here is merely an introduction to it.
+
+Refer to it when writing tests and trying to figure out how to use certain
+[locators](https://playwright.dev/docs/locators) which is important
+things, like `page.getByAltText()`, which you'll need for tying the browsing
+to your assertions.
+
+### What to test
+
+Beyond some basic happy path tests, **only test what `jest` can't test**.
+In particular this means client-side JavaScript interactions. For example,
+`jest` can fetch the HTML over HTTP and assert against the `cheerio` parsed
+HTML, but it can't test what happens when you click a client-side routing
+link that triggers some sort of user agent interaction.
+
+`jest` is always faster. Playwright tests can test things like displaying
+different things depending on cookies or `localStorage`. Playwright tests
+can test the visual presence of something. For example, if something
+like `<div style="display:none">Text here</div>` is in the DOM only
+Playwright can understand that it's not actually present in the page since
+`jest` and Cheerio can't understand CSS.
+
+Think of your headless tests as "What would a human QA person do?"
+The imaginary QA person can be you. If there's something you find yourself
+doing to make sure your functionality doesn't regress as it's changing,
+consider that to be motivation enough to write a headless test.
+
+## VSCode
+
+["Playwright Test for VSCode"](https://marketplace.visualstudio.com/items?itemName=ms-playwright.playwright)
+is a great extension for people who use VSCode. Once installed, open the
+file `playwright-rendering.spec.ts` and start the command
+palette (`Cmd`+`Shift`+`p`) and type "Testing: Focus
+on Playwright View" which will display the "TESTING" sidebar. It finds
+all the file's tests as a tree and for each test there's a Play button.
+You can either play a specific single test or you can make it run all
+tests.
+
+Note, that failiure is often the result of the Playwright test waiting
+very patiently for something to be present but it can't be found. I.e.
+failures are often the same thing as Playwright reaching a waiting timeout.
+This can make it feel like nothing's happening.
+
+Near the bottom of the "TESTING" sidebar is an extra menu specifically for
+Playwright. One very useful option is the "[ ] Show browser" which means a
+browser window will appear when tests run.
+
+## CLI
+
+The most basic command is:
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test -- --help
+```
+
+This will guide you to all the options possible. For example,
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test -- --headed
+```
+
+...will open a browser flickering through the tests.
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test -- playwright-rendering.spec.ts
+```
+
+...will only run the tests in a file by that name.
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test -- playwright-rendering.spec.ts:16
+```
+
+...will run that specific `test('description here', async ({ page }))` on
+line 16.
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test -- -g "view home page"
+```
+
+...will only run tests whose description contains that text.
+
+## Debugging
+
+Writing tests can be difficult until all the locators feel like
+second nature. You might be struggling with finding something in the
+page which you're not sure is there or you don't know exactly
+how to refer to it.
+
+The first thing to do is familiarize yourself with how to run the CLI
+that only opens the one specific test you're debugging. Then, you
+run the CLI with `--debug --headed`. For example:
+
+```sh
+npm run playwright-test -- -g "view home page" --debug --headed
+```
+
+Now, it should open an additional debugger window next to a browser
+window and you can press the play button there. When it gets stuck you can
+use the browser window to do things like right-clicking and "Inspect..."
+to understand what's in the DOM.
+
+Another thing that can help debugging is to open the browser just like
+the script does. Run:
+
+```sh
+npm run start-for-playwright
+```
+
+and open your regular browser window on <http://localhost:4000>.
+When you're done, don't forgot to stop the server otherwise
+the `npm run playwright-test` command won't work.
+
+## Codegen
+
+Codegen is when Playwright starts a browser and a debugger window. In the
+debugger window it generates TypeScript code which you can copy-and-paste
+into your editor/IDE when you're done. To use codegen you need to
+first manually start the server. In the **first terminal**:
+
+```sh
+npm run build && npm run start-for-playwright
+```
+
+In a **second terminal**:
+
+```sh
+npx playwright codegen
+```
+
+Now type in `localhost:4000` in the browser window and click around.
+Note how the TypeScript code gets written. It's definitely not perfect
+but it can save you a lot of time writing selectors.
+
+Note that the codegen code will not have any assertions other than
+sheer presence. It might also contain things like
+`await page.goto('http://localhost:4000')` which you can later
+correct to `await page.goto('/')`.
+
+When you have pasted over the TypeScript code from the debugger window,
+you can click into that second terminal and press `Ctrl`+`C` to stop
+the codegen debugger.
+
+## More browsers
+
+At the moment (March 2023) we don't test more browsers in Actions.
+The primary use case at the moment is testing that client-side
+interactions work at all. Actual cross-browser testing is not a priority
+at the current time.
+
+## Tips on writing tests
+
+- What would a human be able to assert? If you find yourself testing things
+that you expect in the DOM that a human wouldn't be able to test, the
+test might not be a good test. For example, to make an assertion that
+a certain div has `class="blabla"` if you click on a certain thing. Either
+test something visual or perhaps don't bother testing it with Playwright.
+
+- *Combine* codegen tests and manual editing is a great combination.
+Use the codegen output but familiarize yourself with the Playwright
+documentation how to do things like locators and/or assertions.
+
+- When you use the codegen, it's clever in that it can attach to `data-testid`
+nodes in your DOM. That's a good thing. If it's unable to do that,
+consider going into the React code and add some more.
diff --git a/tests/README.md b/tests/README.md
index 8af3f5ffbbaf..b1abc59c5c33 100644
--- a/tests/README.md
+++ b/tests/README.md
@@ -120,3 +120,7 @@ jest tests/rendering/ -b
 ### Fixture based testing
 
 See [Fixture content](./fixtures/README.md).
+
+### Headless tests with Playwright
+
+See [Headless tests with Playwright](./PLAYWRIGHT.md)
diff --git a/tests/meta/orphan-tests.js b/tests/meta/orphan-tests.js
index ea7adb4be744..6be4dc4ee6ae 100644
--- a/tests/meta/orphan-tests.js
+++ b/tests/meta/orphan-tests.js
@@ -5,8 +5,8 @@ import path from 'path'
 describe('check for orphan tests', () => {
   test('all tests are in sub-directories', async () => {
     // A known list of exceptions that can live outside of directories
-    const EXCEPTIONS = ['README.md', 'package.json', 'utils.js', '.DS_Store']
-    const pathToTests = path.join(process.cwd(), 'tests')
+    const EXCEPTIONS = ['README.md', 'package.json', 'utils.js', '.DS_Store', 'PLAYWRIGHT.md']
+    const pathToTests = 'tests'
 
     // Get a list of files/directories in `/tests`
     const testDirectory = await fs.readdir(pathToTests)