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G-code output format #335

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jameskolme opened this issue Oct 13, 2018 · 192 comments
Open

G-code output format #335

jameskolme opened this issue Oct 13, 2018 · 192 comments

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@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 13, 2018

Would it be possible to get back .txt output type? What I did was, I built embroidery machine from old 1950 era sewing machine. Against all odds it actually works, slowly, but it gets the job done. With this completely nonstandard plumb of cast iron, issue is that it runs on G-code and older version inkstitch was excellent to output this .txt code. My coder friend made me little program to trans code this .txt to standard g-code, included separate line for sewing move.

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Oct 13, 2018

Wow, so cool! I've heard of people doing this but never spoken to someone who made one. I would love to see pictures and/or video if you are interested in sharing :)

We switched from using libembroidery to a new Python version, pyembroidery awhile back, and that's when we lost the .TXT format. To be honest, I didn't realize anyone was using it! Sorry about that.

There are a couple of options here. We could add in a .TXT format to pyembroidery, although it does already have a .CSV format that you can access through the Embroider extension's dropdown menu. It's likely that your friend's program could be modified pretty easily to use .CSV files instead of .TXT. Are they available to re-code the conversion program?

Another option is to add a G-code output format to pyembroidery. I really like this idea because it would help out other folks that want to make their own embroidery machine like you did. It's been a very long time since I looked at G-code, so I'd need a refresher on how it's formatted. If your friend would be willing, could you post the conversion program here? I could use that to write a G-Code output plugin for pyembroidery and release a new version of Ink/Stitch.

Also, if you're up for it, it would be super cool if you wrote up a bit about how you created your embroidery machine. We'd be happy to provide space on https://inkstitch.org/ if you wanted to go that route. I love the idea of an open source embroidery machine powered by open source software. :) Our web source files are here though I'm sure we could help you with formatting if you're not familiar with Jekyll and/or markdown.

Welcome to the Ink/Stitch community :)

@wwderw
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@wwderw wwderw commented Oct 13, 2018

I hadn't ever used the .txt format, but wouldn't it have been formatted the same as a CSV with how it used/displayed the info?

I could be wrong, only reason why I'm thinking this is that I use simple text editors when manipulating the CSV file.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 14, 2018

Pictures, yes I can do that. This is still work in progress, currently this works as it should, but I'm not happy about changing hoop or height of Y axis. I will turn these on side 90 degrees, so it will be lower and hoop will be nearly quick release. This is actually fully 3D printed, slides are 8mm stainless rods (L=400mm) with suitable linear bearings, nema 17 steppers move and actual brain is Arduino Uno with GRBL shield. Separate nema23 runs sewing machine. Runs with 12V power and connects to computer with USB. I think this is very easy to duplicate.

This is my fourth UNO/GRBL machine, so nothing new, but getting G-code to stitch well that's new thing. Biggest limitation is G-code, because it is exact, sewing machine can't be run on freely with sync, like industrial embroidery machines. I have not yet calculated what is actual stitch/min speed, never remember calculate after program. Maybe I run some dummy program just for this.

tikka tahti 2
tikka tahti 3
img_20181014_105410

Can't see why not make some sort of story about this and that time I definitely need some help with formatting. But first I need to finish this.

Did save with .csv and noted that .txt might not be the best source for movement, easy, but it might cause problems. I get back to this and make example how this G code compares to csv or txt. It would be great if G-code comes out directly and way easier to people to get tinkering.

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Oct 14, 2018

Wow, that's a seriously high-quality result! The build is impressive, thanks for sharing.

I'm sold on this, it's definitely worth creating a g-code output format for pyembroidery. I'm going to rename this issue to reflect that. Once you post an example g-code file and/or the conversion program your friend wrote, I'll write the output program and we can see if it works :)

@lexelby lexelby changed the title .TXT output G-code output format Oct 14, 2018
@kaalleen
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@kaalleen kaalleen commented Oct 14, 2018

Wow, this is a really interesting project. Thank you for sharing!

I did set up a page on our website. It doesn't have to stay in that place and headlines are flexible ;)
But it's something to begin with - when you are ready to do so.

Website
Source

If you have questions about the formatting, I'll be willing to help. Or... if you feel more comfortable to post text and images here, I could place it on the website afterwards.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 14, 2018

CLIP FROM RANDOM CSV EXPORT

"#","[VAR_NAME]","[VAR_VALUE]"
">","STITCH_COUNT:","7709"
">","THREAD_COUNT:","1"
">","EXTENTS_LEFT:","-25.399251"
">","EXTENTS_TOP:","-20.447967"
">","EXTENTS_RIGHT:","27.972327"
">","EXTENTS_BOTTOM:","18.694219"
">","EXTENTS_WIDTH:","53.371578"
">","EXTENTS_HEIGHT:","39.142185"

"#","[THREAD_NUMBER]","[RED]","[GREEN]","[BLUE]","[DESCRIPTION]","[CATALOG_NUMBER]"
"$","1","0","0","0","(null)",""

"#","[STITCH_TYPE]","[X]","[Y]"
"*","JUMP","0.000000","-0.000000"
"*","JUMP","-15.231619","18.482599"
"*","STITCH","-15.231619","18.482599"
"*","STITCH","-15.310994","18.482599"
"*","STITCH","-15.390369","18.482599"
"*","STITCH","-15.310994","18.482599"

ETC,ETC,ETC....

TO G-CODE VERSION "THIS WORKS, BUT..."

G0 X0.0 Y0.0 
G0 X-15.231 Y18.482
G0 X-15.231 Y18.482
G0 Z5.0
G0 X-15.310 Y18.482
G0 Z10.0
G0 X-15.390 Y18.482
G0 Z15.0
G0 X-15.310 Y18.482
G0 Z20.0

ETC,ETC,ETC....

M30

This works, everything is uppercase and decimals as shown exactly. Now, let's confuse things, with arduino/GRBL G0 is not needed, it starts on rapid feed and Z5.0 can be simply Z5

Doing this as shown on code with decimal point zero (Z5.0) and every line starts with G0 will ensure this G-code will work on any controller, older controllers are really picky about format. Accuracy can be cut down to closer real world and made easier to this tiny processor, so three decimals will do.

Z axis runs sewing machine, 1 stitch is equal to 5mm movement (real world one rotation), this can be adjusted from controller. Seems like good value is more than 1, so I picked 5. Actually with 1mm movement controller is not able to do proper speed ramping (more speed), so 5 it is. Every stitch adds 5 to Z value, again simplest solution.

MAX speed is configured on controller, can't see any reason why move less than rapid speed. If something goes wrong, it just goes wrong quickly and this is not that fast anyway. Every program ends with M30

TO G-CODE VERSION "NICE TO HAVE"

(STITCH_COUNT:7709)
(EXTENTS_WIDTH:53.3)
(EXTENTS_HEIGHT:39.1)

G0 X0.0 Y0.0 
G0 X-15.231 Y18.482
G0 Z5.0
G0 X-15.310 Y18.482
G0 Z10.0
G0 X-15.390 Y18.482
G0 Z15.0
G0 X-15.310 Y18.482
G0 Z20.0

ETC,ETC,ETC....

M30

Few comment lines at the start ( ), mainly size might be interesting to know. Every G-code program starts
with G0 X0.0 Y0.0 and any jumps can be ignored, because this sews only when asked to do so. Starting from X0.0 Y0.0 makes most sense. If it runs away something is wrong. There is possibility to use limit switches and home location with multiple locations, but this gets complicated really fast.

TO G-CODE VERSION "FINAL"

(STITCH_COUNT:7709)
(EXTENTS_WIDTH:53.3)
(EXTENTS_HEIGHT:39.1)

G0 X0.0 Y0.0 
G0 X15.231 Y-18.482
G0 Z5.0
G0 X15.310 Y-18.482
G0 Z10.0
G0 X15.390 Y-18.482
G0 Z15.0
G0 X15.310 Y-18.482
G0 Z20.0

ETC,ETC,ETC....

M30

Final tweak, X and Y must be mirrored. I can tweak this on controller, switch axis directions, but it will cause issue when somebody else is running this or when moving hoop from computer directly.

Somehow this ended looking really complicated hmm :)

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Oct 14, 2018

Awesome. Easy peasy!

Do I just write the above in a text file or is there a binary format?

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 14, 2018

Plain old fashioned text.

@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Oct 15, 2018

@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Oct 15, 2018

@jameskolme will you share your blueprints as a open source peoject?

if and when you do please drop us a notice on the link to your gitproject page with the source blueprints so we can add to the link to the inkstitch webpage ;)

also like i said before I am interested in replicating your project with a similar machine i have at home ;)

let us know

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 15, 2018

Yes, I can share those models, not sure what platform, but yes. Currently doing some redesign, to make things more user friendly and practical to use.

@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Oct 15, 2018

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 16, 2018

Some designs are made with inventor, really like inventor, but currently no valid license so fusion 360 it is. Might consider Thingiverse, if it still exist, I have something on there already or should be, maybe :)

@jameskolme jameskolme closed this Oct 16, 2018
@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 16, 2018

Erm what I did just now, my bad, clicking everything that is clickable

@jameskolme jameskolme reopened this Oct 16, 2018
@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Oct 16, 2018

@rlee05
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@rlee05 rlee05 commented Oct 24, 2018

My group and I also working on a project where gcode output would be really useful. We're retrofitting a Singer 4432 to be an automatic embroidery machine with a custom hoop controller and speed controller. What's the status on the gcode output? If no one is working on this, mind if I pick it up?

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Oct 24, 2018

Hi @rlee05, welcome to the project! So exciting, another custom made embroidery machine!!

There's a working development build of the g-code output here: https://github.com/inkstitch/inkstitch/releases/tag/dev-build-lexeby-gcode-output. It may already do what you need. Of course, code contributions are enthusiastically welcome, so if it doesn't do what you need, feel free to have at it. :)

At this point that code is on the master branch and it's just waiting for me to build an official release. I was planning to do a big new release in the next week or two with g-code, auto-satin, and a few bug fixes.

@rlee05
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@rlee05 rlee05 commented Oct 24, 2018

Awesome! I'll take a look! Thanks for working on this issue so quickly :)

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Oct 25, 2018

My machine is back working again after modifications.
img-20181024-wa0010

Made nearly all mistakes that can be made, but it is what was called for. Actually too small satin stitch is quite good around letters, it is just wrong place. Mainly have learned Inkscape basics and desing/print new hoops. Domestic sewing machine lost a lot of hoop space because of huge pressing foot, so little bit larger size hoops are good thing. Just my 3D printer has different opinion on this.

Before this thing I didn't realize how important pressing foot is, I have 4 different embroidery feet and none of them are really that good. One showing on image, is best for results, but it wont rise high enough for hoop. I need to modify some. I wonder why nobody makes embroidery foot for diy embroidery machines and can't find book called DIY embroidery machines for dummies, it might help :)

@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Oct 29, 2018

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Nov 1, 2018

Now this happened:
p3550141
My style user interface
p3550140
Windy day, so securing wires would be good idea
p3550136
Yep, secured oilcan.
p3550138

And now back to learning inkscape some more. Near future I will write BOM, write some more and clean/rename all models. Some video might be coming, sooner or later with some assembly instructions (hopefully). Not sure what to do with chain, it just looks dangerous. Sprocket will change if I stumble on bigger stepper, but looks like we will stitch currently slow with lots of torque. I will update this topic when something happens.

@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Nov 2, 2018

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Nov 4, 2018

That is so cool :D

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Nov 6, 2018

Some teaser or something:
https://youtu.be/0lERsPc5gEk

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Nov 6, 2018

Wow, that totally just made my week! @kaalleen Perhaps we should link to this on the website? Ink/Stitch: the official digitizing software for DIY embroidery machines.

@X3msnake
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@X3msnake X3msnake commented Nov 6, 2018

@kaalleen
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@kaalleen kaalleen commented Nov 7, 2018

This is a really great project! I like how you add all these details with the controller and all.

@lexelby definitely yes ;) I'll do as soon as I find the time to do so.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Apr 23, 2019

I use currently J Tech laser tool plug-in for Inkscape and controls are as shown below.
J-Tech

This is pretty good, but not compatible with Inkstitch, must undo everything after use.
Lasermode on/off commands are free to choose, some of diy lasers based on mills or other G-code programmable tables use non-standard methods. Instead of M3/M5 it can be Z-1./Z0. or something outside GRBL or 3D printer control.

I think feed rate must be used and G0 is only for jump to start position. Another important is power on delay, my laser leaves gap if movement starts straight away. With heavy fabric or plastic sheet, multiple passes are must. If going too slow everything melts too much or there is big possibility of open flame. My laser is only 2W and cutting speeds are commonly 600-1000mm/min with multiple passes.

(If laser G-code is coming, then there might be need for patch edge dimensioning tool. :) )

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Apr 28, 2019

I couldn't get j-tech or any other laser extension to output the g-code that I wanted, so I ended up adding the features I needed to Ink/Stitch. I'll post a PR soon.

I just laser-cut my first patch blank and sewed it, and it worked great! Now I can finally get rid of that long manual melting and cutting procedure, and I can make complicated patch shapes, too! The patch edge came out super straight and tidy. "E" stitch worked great as a tack-down (thanks @wwderw).

What do you mean by "patch edge dimensioning"?

@wwderw
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@wwderw wwderw commented Apr 28, 2019

"E" stitch worked great as a tack-down

The E-stitch is a really neat/useful stitch type.

I'll also use it when I'm trying to "hide" the embroidery as well or if it's going on baby's clothes, best way to tack down applique for those items.

And it's surprisingly strong when used correctly. Nice all around stitch type to have.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Apr 29, 2019

I have to try E-stitch, I have done running stitch and zigzag to keep edges down.

What do you mean by "patch edge dimensioning"?

Tool to generate all patch edge stitching offsets, based on actual edge line.
Basically it would generate:
lasercut line with offset
placement stitch with offset
tackdown stitch with offset
tackdown satin with offset
final edge satin with offset

There are a lot of offset dimensions here and this would work/help when doing patch edge using simpler methods as well. Tool like this would be handy when doing patch edges, but probably not that important.

@aatif89
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@aatif89 aatif89 commented Apr 29, 2019

@jameskolme
Hi James. I did exactly as you said and now the axis are moving perfectly. Please check the video and ket me know if it's working the way it's supposed to be. Also I want to know more about Z Axis setting, Auto loader and color changing.
https://youtu.be/KR06QvVWy5M
Thank you so much.

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented Apr 30, 2019

Ah, yes, I see what you mean now. That would be a useful tool, although I imagine different folks might have different ideas of what a patch edge should look like. Will require some thought.

@lexelby
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@lexelby lexelby commented May 1, 2019

#450 created :)

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented May 1, 2019

@aatif89 Video is very confusing, is it running just by jogging? What happens if short inkstitch program is loaded and run? It should move X,Y and Then Z, if all axes moves same time something is wrong.

What you mean by autoloader?

Best way to do color change is to make individual programs for each colors. Every program is based same origin, so hoop must no be touched and Z axis must be zeroed between every program. Using settings tab, enable can be used so accidentally hoop movement can be avoided easily.

@JustGand
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@JustGand JustGand commented May 14, 2019

@jameskolme

first, thank you for your machine !
I just havea question regarding the Z enable stepper connexion :
On your picture, you're connecting
GND on ENA- (ENA)
ENA on ENA+ (+5V)

Won't it do the opposite of what is wanted ?

[https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/44113605/48376011-54801180-e6d2-11e8-8a64-a3ddf9b76c37.jpg]

I finally tried, and it does not work when you do it "the right way".

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented May 15, 2019

@JustGand For test purpose only, what if hard wiring enable and take step pulse from GRBL, remember to connect ground signals too. This should make it move, if not, something else is wrong.

@Puneeth-Sri-Sai-Satya-Teja
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@Puneeth-Sri-Sai-Satya-Teja Puneeth-Sri-Sai-Satya-Teja commented Nov 1, 2019

may I know what is hardwiring of a direction pin?
how to do that in an a4988 driver?

@JustGand
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@JustGand JustGand commented Nov 1, 2019

Because sewing machines does not like to turn backward.
I don't think it could be done with an a4988, but i think a small driver like that won't deliver enough torque anyway ...

@Puneeth-Sri-Sai-Satya-Teja

actually I tested the Gcode on ender 3. it worked but z-axis stopped after 1 minute no movement in it.
I think small drivers are capable to do it please tell me how to hardwire direction in a4988.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Nov 2, 2019

Hardwiring A4988, cut DIR pin away, so no contact to circuit board. Now solder small wire from DIR pin to logic level positive or negative, depending witch way stepper is connected. Might need to test correct direction for this.
https://www.hobbyist.co.nz/?q=stepper-motor-controller-A4988

@krsshtx
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@krsshtx krsshtx commented Apr 1, 2020

Hi jameskolme!

How do you change colour?
Is there a g-code special command?

My machine is back working again after modifications.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Apr 1, 2020

@krsshtx I have done color change every time using different programs, program for color 1, color 2 etc...

@krsshtx
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@krsshtx krsshtx commented Apr 1, 2020

I tried to "attach commands" but didn't notice any changes in g-code.
I thought i've done something wrong.
May be devs can add cut and pause commands?

@krsshtx I have done color change every time using different programs, program for color 1, color 2 etc...

@JustGand
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@JustGand JustGand commented Apr 12, 2020

How strong is the machine motor meant to be ?

I'm no expert in Nema23 motors, but even if i have a pretty strong one (23HS45, 4,2A, 3Nm holding torque with a DM542 driver), it misses steps when there are too many stitches at the same place.
I have a feeling it's not normal and it should rather break the needle or tear the fabric apart ?

BTW, here is my machine : https://youtu.be/ofgxDkFwn54
I've been inspired by jameskolme machine, but i made parts in aluminium instead of 3d printing them.

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Apr 14, 2020

@JustGand Actually many stitches at the exact point is surprisingly hard, you probably can hear when needle and fabric keeps certain noise, like complain. Your motor should be enough, I had much smaller when I did first experiments. It is possible to get more torque out of stepper just using less micro stepping and lowering accelerating ramp, this might need some trys to get right, not exact sience. With normal stepper it is really fine balance between speed and reliability. Later I did change my stepper to so called hybrid stepper, it is driven like normal stepper but motor is looped back like servo drive, so no lost steps. This is huge step for speed and reliability, but everything can be done with normal stepper and patience.

@krsshtx
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@krsshtx krsshtx commented Apr 14, 2020

I had no 23 and they are expensive. 17-style is slow when used with gears.
So I used RS-triggered DC from 6xx deskjet with gears and hall sensor 41f with 2 magnets on the flyweel. Industrial sewing positioner style.

@kaalleen
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@kaalleen kaalleen commented Apr 16, 2020

@jameskolme tatarize uses M00 for the color change and stop command in his gcode writer.

Maybe we should add it too?

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Apr 16, 2020

@kaalleen Yes, that would do it.

@kaalleen
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@kaalleen kaalleen commented Apr 16, 2020

Ok, great. I've updated it accordingly. For the stop command I added a move to the stop position before it calls M00. Hope that makes sense.

@mbode66
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@mbode66 mbode66 commented Sep 25, 2020

This project is really awesome! thanks for all the work and great ideas!
Last weekend i managed to convert my 30 year old Quelle-Privileg sewing machine into a CNC stitching machine.
luckily it allready had a GT2-belt drive and the motor compartment easily could carry a 100mm NEMA23 stepper.
My biggest problem at the moment is the color change: is there a version available with th M00 command?
yesterday I tried to create 4 different gcode files from one project; but they have all different coordinates (shifted zero positions)! how do you manage that?
thanks, Matthias

@jameskolme
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@jameskolme jameskolme commented Sep 26, 2020

This project is really awesome! thanks for all the work and great ideas!
Last weekend i managed to convert my 30 year old Quelle-Privileg sewing machine into a CNC stitching machine.
luckily it allready had a GT2-belt drive and the motor compartment easily could carry a 100mm NEMA23 stepper.
My biggest problem at the moment is the color change: is there a version available with th M00 command?
yesterday I tried to create 4 different gcode files from one project; but they have all different coordinates (shifted zero positions)! how do you manage that?
thanks, Matthias

Have you placed origin using add commands? to make one universal origin. Other common problem to me was loosing position when changing color, simply bumping canvas loop by hand. This can be avoided when setting stepper motors to active at all times. Just to make sure problem is inside gcode, you can always run program using same color without touching anything to make sure what is happening, hope this helps some.

@mbode66
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@mbode66 mbode66 commented Sep 28, 2020

@jameskolme thanks for the hint: I tried the "set origin" with "add command" and it works!
But you have to set the origin again and again, after each creation of one colorset?!

For the "zero"-position in the middle I already made a mechanical stop (I noticed that Ink/Stitch seemed to work around one zero position in the middle and had so far no idea, how to manage that with electrical homesensors).

thanks, Matthias

@dave-ping
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@dave-ping dave-ping commented Nov 24, 2020

i am having an issue with setup. I have a slantomatic 500 that I would like to make an embroidery jig for with minimal change to the machine. I would prefer not to change the internal motor because this machine will sew at 1100 spm straight line zig zag what ever i throw at it. Anyway to the point I am reading through the g-code and i was hoping to locate that z could be say a switch that could be hit by the armature at the front of the machine and all timing reference for xy axis movement would then move when z switch is in n/c position and when armature leaves and switch is in n/o position then xy hold for next stich but i am not a programmer.

@skinnybottom
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@skinnybottom skinnybottom commented Mar 22, 2021

This is a brilliant project and beautifully designed, thank you. I have just built one and it almost works however I have a major problem. I have used different pulleys to yours and am unable to synchronize the x y movement with the stitch cycle, My maths is rubbish so the prospect of me calculating this properly is minimal. Is there a trial and error method?
Thanks for this
Aaron

@scwirral
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@scwirral scwirral commented Apr 12, 2021

I'm really impressed by the diy machines, and also by inkstitch itself.

I would love to tinker an embroidery machine along these lines, and might get around to this if I can get time. However, I'm just thinking about the costs and how a very open and accessible design could be made. I've already got an ender-3 3D printer. These are super affordable and incredible good at what they do. It would be amazing if a project could be set up to use the motion control of one of these machines to move the frame holding the fabric. I could design a printable frame clamp that could attach to the printer's bed in an evening.

I've already used Inkscape to generate gcode to run my ender 3 as a pen plotter like the guy in this youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB8-BGU_9qg

Now what would be AMAZING would be if the z axis signals could be disconnected from the printer and sent to a device which controls a sewing machine. (particularly if this could be done by unplugging the stepper z axis but allowing it to be reconnected to use the printer as originally intended again after)

The ender3 can be bought for about £200, with all the motors and control hardware ready to go (as a 3d printer). Clever folks will argue that they can harvest all they need to make the hardware to fully DIY from old printers and scanners, but the idea I'm proposing could see enthusiastic people getting set up with all they need for a very accessible prince. If they didn't already own one, they'd get a terrific entry level 3D printer 'for free' thrown in.

It would be easy to nominate a widely available sewing entry level sewing machine that could be the recommended partner. I have no expertise here, but something like the brother ls14 which is widely available used and can be purchased new for just over £100 might be good. If anyone is aware of a machine which would lend itself to this application please flag it up. If a machine has features like needle up detection that would be worth having to limit the amount of hacking required.

You might end up with a huge community of users as the entry costs for people who already have the ender 3 would be low, and even those starting from nothing would be able to get going with an investment substantially lower than that of a second hand, entry level embroidery machine, and as noted above they would also get a free 3d printer thrown in.

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@tyrosinase tyrosinase commented Apr 12, 2021

The biggest problem I can see with that is that embroidery machine is an XY bed, where most 3d printers (or things like 3018 CNC's, which I would love to have an excuse to use) have gantries for at least one axis.

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