FDD-UDD U144K

[nretro]

By accident (resp. stupidity) I bought a FDD-UDD U144K.

Looks quit similar, but it's not obvious how the jumpers have to be connected to flash a new firmware. It has got a 7x2 pin header labeled J0, J1, ... J6 and a 5x1 pin header labeled 07,46,47,48,49. Did anybody already figure out how these relate to the headers of the standard gotek?

[nretro]

Here it is. Looks similar enough... tough it is probably better to check first.... Thanks for looking into it.

[nretro]

Is there a schematic for the usual gotek? I also have two of those, but it would be easier to check if I would not have to reverse engineer those first. I mean the zero hypothesis would be that they did not change the headers.

[nretro]

Just for the fun of it, I checked and found out, that the lower pin of the 1x5 connects to the same pin of the processor. So there is hope...

[nretro]

46 (2nd from below) connects to the third pin on the upper side of the CPU (from left). Usual gotek connects this to the 6th pin on the upper side.
47 connects to the 2nd pin on the upper side of the CPU.
48 connects to the 3 digit display where it says 3v3.
49 connects to the upper most pin on the left side of the cpu.

[nretro]

On the 1x5 header there is NRST, and then CPU pins 46-49: PA13, VSS2. VDD2, PA14. PA9 and PA10 (USART1) are not connected at all. Both methods to flash the firmware use USART1. Is there an alternative or do i have to solder a connection to the CPU?

[nretro]

It does seem to support some kind of flashing via USB. When both buttons are pressed at startup, the display shows U00 -> 126 -> F01. But I could not find any suitable files on the internet or on the supplied CD.
EDIT: No, seems to be a formatting utility. Writes an "IBM 6.0" MBR and a partition table with one partition spanning the whole USB stick.

[drdpj]

PA13 & PA14, vdd and gnd will let you program it with an stlink v2 adapter.

…

On Wed, 29 May 2019, 22:09 nretro, ***@***.***> wrote: It does seem to support some kind of flashing via USB. When both buttons are pressed at startup, the display shows U00 -> 126 -> F01. But I could not find any suitable files on the internet or on the supplied CD. — You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#232>, or mute the thread <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AATU2PCLRCHCNJJX44NRQJLPX3WJNANCNFSM4HQGI2AQ> .

[keirf]

Yes the 1x5 is a programming header. I've never used the jtag interface but I think I have the adapter in my box of bits and it's supposed to be fairly straightforward.

Can you work out the other header?

[nretro]

The 2x6 is almost the same as in the usual gotek, only left and right got switched:
J0-J2 right PA0
J3-J6 right VSS
J6 left PIN4 (of floppy connector)
J5 left 37 PC6 (Jumper JA)
J4 left 27 PB1 (Jumper JC)
J3 Left 16 PA2 (Jumper JB)
J2 left PIN10
J1 left PIN12
J0 left PIN16

I ordered a PL2303HX a while back. Is that likely to work or do I need another adapter?

[keirf]

The PL2303HX is a serial adapter and would program via USART1, which is not connected to a header on this Gotek. Similarly, you need access to PA9 to strap it high to program via the USB-DFU method.

So, the only method available here is via the SWD-JTAG interface on the 1x5 header. For this you need an ST-LINK v2 adapter. You can get clones on Ebay for a pound or so from China, or for a little more if you want quicker delivery.

I have one or two stashed somewhere although I've never used them, but I am happy to work out a method on Linux at least, following one of the online guides such as: https://github.com/rogerclarkmelbourne/Arduino_STM32/wiki/Programming-an-STM32F103XXX-with-a-generic-%22ST-Link-V2%22-programmer-from-Linux

[nretro]

Success.

1. Connect GND and +5V to power connector of gotek
2. Connect SWDIO to header pin 46 (PA13)
3. Connect SWCLK to header pin 49 (PA14)
4. Connect header pin 07 (NRST) to GND
5. Execute (I used OpenOCD 0.10.0 on Debian unstable)
   openocd -f /usr/share/openocd/scripts/interface/stlink-v2.cfg -f /usr/share/openocd/scripts/target/stm32f1x_stlink.cfg
6. In a different shell execute "telnet localhost 4444". From now on we use the telnet session
7. type "reset halt" and immediately disconnect header pin 07. The reply should be something like

target halted due to debug-request, current mode: Thread
xPSR: 0x01000000 pc: 0x080061d4 msp: 0x200006c0

8. "stm32f1x unlock 0" was needed on this board to enable writing to the flash bank. ("flash banks" displays all available banks)
9. type
   " flash write_image erase <your_path>/FF_Gotek-v2.12.hex"
10. type "reset run"
11. disconnect st-link.

I still have to test if it actually works. Up to now I only checked that it says "F-F" on the display.

[nretro]

OK... and does work as expected loading an adf on an Amiga. I'll be busy with other things over the next couple of weeks, but at some point I'll also try to add display and rotary mods. I'll post the results.

[keirf]

Will be interesting. Especially the rotary pins may not have a header. Will have to see if there's anything to solder to other than mcu pins directly.

[penfold42]

Worst case, use the JTAG pins or the SPI flash pins

[keirf]

I have linked to this ticket from the wiki: https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/wiki/Gotek-Compatibility#models-to-avoid

I will close this ticket now, but we can add to it with further info in future (eg. if we work on support for rotary encoder).

[LukaszDziwosz]

Thanks for the pinout and instructions. I flashed on Windows. Here is some photos. To fit Oled I had to trim inside case as hole is too close to edge.

[sirkaa]

hello

reviving this thread, made the error too and got this board by mistake. Now trying to program it but it seems that RDP is on and i have found no way to disable it with option bytes thus no letting me program it. Using windows 7 + st link utility. Any help would be appreciated. cheers

[ramparts]

I have this gotek too and from st link v2 chinese programmer can´t be programmable with st-link utility.
On automatic programming gives the read programming protection error and won´t go further more...

[LukaszDziwosz]

While in automatic programming mode you must do a reset on pin 7. I thought you guys will read nretro comment fully before reading mine.

[ramparts]

Gotek drive reset line 07 constantly grounded before gotek 5v power up..
Programmer say can,t remove read protection and loop to device 2...
Maybe some issue on the programmer or the gotek U144k it self.
Never had issues on other gotek through serial programming..

[LukaszDziwosz]

you need to un-ground pin 7 when in automatic mode to unlock this Gotek

[ramparts]

Thanks I will try it.
Regards

JOSÉ

[ramparts]

I have try and had success flashing the drive but it´s sillyest thing i ever encounter.
It did really had to make a temporary reset while in programming mode,everytime the programmer started to read i had to make a reset.
sometimes game error while recording the bytes option with the disabeled read out protection.
But after o erased all the banks and flash memory,i could save the table without any issues..

Still i prefer ther serial programming... :)

Thank you for all the help.

[sirkaa]

While in automatic programming mode you must do a reset on pin 7. I thought you guys will read nretro comment fully before reading mine.

Thank you very much for your reply. I have no experience in programming, i am a musician and i really appreciate you guys help. I did read all posts before commenting but as nretro used Debian i did think it was different on windows.Your pictures did not show this action nor it was mentioned so i got confused. Thank you anyway. have a good day.

[hexbus]

Did what @nretro mentioned above -

• Connect GND and +5V to power connector of gotek
• Connect SWDIO to header pin 46 (PA13)
• Connect SWCLK to header pin 49 (PA14)
• Connect header pin 07 (NRST) to GND

Installed the ST-Link V2 and had the three pins above connected to the U144K. Powered up the Eilasung FDD-UDD U144K on the rear floppy power connector. Ran this command and keep getting this:

/d/dev/openocd/bin/openocd.exe -f /d/dev/openocd/share/openocd/scripts/interface/stlink.cfg -f /d/dev/openocd/share/openocd/scripts/target/stm32f1x.cfg

Open On-Chip Debugger 0.10.0 (2020-03-10) [https://github.com/sysprogs/openocd]
Licensed under GNU GPL v2
libusb1 09e75e98b4d9ea7909e8837b7a3f00dda4589dc3
For bug reports, read
        http://openocd.org/doc/doxygen/bugs.html
Info : auto-selecting first available session transport "hla_swd". To override use 'transport select <transport>'.
Info : The selected transport took over low-level target control. The results might differ compared to plain JTAG/SWD
Info : Listening on port 6666 for tcl connections
Info : Listening on port 4444 for telnet connections
Info : clock speed 1000 kHz
Info : STLINK v2 JTAG v31 API v2 SWIM v7 VID 0x0483 PID 0x3748
Info : using stlink api v2
Info : Target voltage: 3.116464
Error: init mode failed (unable to connect to the target
```)

Tried putting it in a loop, turning on and off the unit, etc.  Thoughts on what I should try?

[keirf]

Try connecting pin 07 (NRST) to NRST/RESET on the ST-Link. Currently you are holding the Gotek in permanent reset. That could be a problem.

[hexbus]

Tried that as well. I even dropped the external +5V connector and hooked up the following (on the ST Link V2):

• SWCLK to 49 (PA14)
• +3.3V to 48 (apparently, 3.3V regulated when I measured with the 5V connected instead)
• GND to 47
• SWDIO to 46 (PA13)
• RST to 07 (NRST)

The unit powers up just fine hooking up that entire 5-pin header directly to the ST Link, but alas, still getting the same errors. I bought three of these, so will try the other two.

I brought up the ST-LInk software and did a Target->Connect to target. Same error. Went into Settings-> Mode and changed from Normal to "Connect Under Reset". No change, still can't connect to the target.

Very strange. Either I got a bum drive or a bum ST-Link. (or they've changed the firmware on the chip maybe?)

[hexbus]

Just an update. Here's what worked for me:

Hooked up the four pins to the ST-Link. Did not hook up floppy power.

• SWCLK to 49 (PA14)
• +3.3V to 48 (apparently, 3.3V regulated when I measured with the 5V connected instead)
• GND to 47
• SWDIO to 46 (PA13)

Shorted Ground on the floppy power connector to 07 (NRST). Ran the STM steps from 5 onward that @nretro mentioned above. Success!

[mjnman]

Can I connect the buzzer in this version?
The older version I connected with the pin JB

[keirf]

Yes buzzer will work.

[mjnman]

What are the connection pins? I didn't see the JB

[keirf]

Position J3

[duca750]

I modify my FDD-UDD U144K with a OLED Display and a Rotary encoder. I flash it with FF 3.25 see here. I can select all images. It works as the GOTEK's. But I have'n a Access from my PC. The actvity LED is on. The other GOTEK's work on this PC correct. Have you an answer.

Pease, have diagram for this connections (Rotatory encoder) please? Thanks!

#232 (comment)

[duca750]

Posición J3

Hi, i have points for rotatory option, but do you know some pin for push button (Menu and options button).

Thank you!
Auto response... J5!

[ADoozer]

Another numpty that bought the wrong model :(

Anyways. I bought the stlink v2 and hooked it up as per the image posted by zebra9000
When i power up the USB the display is blank as expected but when running ST Link Utility I cannot get it to connect.

No matter how quick or slow I disconnect 07 from ground I get the following message

Can not connect to target!
Please select "Connect Under Reset" mode from Target->Settings menu and try again.
If you're trying to connect to a low frequency application , please select a lower SWD Frequency mode from Target->Settings menu.

I have tried multiple combinations with no success....

I did notice this comment on zebra3000's post but it looks like the image folder no longer exists.
Does anyone have the required settings?

• NOTE: look at Image 3.5 to validate your connection settings if you have an issue

STM32 ST-LINK Utility v4.6.0.0
STLINKUSBDriver.dll v5.1.2.0
ST-LINK_CLI.exe v3.6.0.0

Regards
Dave

[zezba9000]

@ADoozer Not sure what happened to the link. Probably shared so others could edit and someone else deleted it. Ugg.
I back up all my legacy device docs. So updated original comment FYI. Also just reposting here with all images on GitHub so they are not lost for others.

<< To to flash Gotek (FDD-UDD U144K) >>
* Remove all jumpers from the Gotek drive
* Wire an ST-Link-V2 programmer to the Gotek (Image 1)
* Install and open "STM32 ST-Link Utility" in Windows (Image 2)
* Hit connect button in ST-Link Utility then quickly unplug NRST (aka Pin 07)
* The device should now be connected (Image 3)
* NOTE: look at Image 3.5 to validate your connection settings if you have an issue
* Now connect NRST (aka Pin 07) to RST pin on your ST-Link-V2 programmer
* In ST-Link Utility go to Target->Program (Image 4)
* Download FlashFloppy and extract
* Select a FlashFloppy .hex firmware file and flash your Gotek (Image 5)
* Now put a jumper on pins J2 (aka SO)
* You're done!

<< How to configure Gotek USB drive >>
* Download FlashFloppy and extract
* Copy "flashfloppy-vX.XX\HxC_Compat_Mode\<Atari_ST OR Amiga>\AUTOBOOT.HFE" to "flashfloppy-vX.XX" folder
* Copy "flashfloppy-vX.XX\HxC_Compat_Mode\HXCSDFE.CFG" to "flashfloppy-vX.XX" folder
* Copy all files in "flashfloppy-vX.XX" to your USB root
* Create a games/app folder and add ".st" files.
* You're done!

<< How to mount .st files (On Atari ST computer) >>
* Turn on your Atari/Amiga and use arrow keys to navigate menus (Hit help key for help)
* Select a .st file and hit enter
* Now select a mount slot (which is selectable via Gotek buttons)
* Hit F7 to restart the computer with the last mounted .st image file
* Use Gotek buttons to change what .st image is mounted from your configured slots or load back the Gotek manager app

<< How to mount .st files (In Windows) >>
* In cmd windows launch: "SDCard_HxC_Floppy_Emulator_Manager\Windows\HXCFEMNG.exe -disk:<USB-DRIVE-LETER>"
* This launches FlashFloppy emulator thats the same as running it on actual Atari ST hardware
* Follow the standard "How to mount .st files (On Atari ST computer)" directions but hit F10 to save & exit
* Now eject USB drive and you're done.

<< How to update Gotek firmware >>
* Download new FlashFloppy firmware
* Delete old FlashFloppy files on you USB drive
* Follow steps in "How to configure Gotek USB drive"
* With the power off hold both Gotek buttons down
* Now with buttons held turn on power (the Gotek will update itself and restart)
* Restart computer
* You're done!

Files for docs: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Alt5wRhQYKD7gfxDsTW_32XvasHkVQ?e=o390HO

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Image 3.5

Image 4

Image 5

[ADoozer]

thanks zezba9000.

Looks like I have the correct settings, wired the same as your image, but still just getting the cant connect message.

Tried disconnecting 07 from ground the instant I press connect all the way up to 1 or 2 seconds later - must have done it 100 times by now :(

All jumpers removed.
Display is blank at power up
When I press connect, I see the little LED on the ST-LINK v2 blink once
The second I remove 07 from ground the display turns to 000

PCB markings say ELS34E@2309 (ARM STM32F105 R8T6) looks identical to the picture you posted.

Its got me beat... for the sake of another $40 I should just buy the correct model.

regards
Dave

[zezba9000]

@ADoozer Maybe try playing with the RST wire. Try leaving it connecting it to the NRST pin.
This area if I remember correctly is the main pain point. Try some other combinations related to this specifically.

[ADoozer]

Thanks again zezba9000.

Tried powering up with the RST and NRST connected.
7 seg display reads 000 at power up and the same connection error.
(same as if powering up with 07 disconnected)

The RST line from the STLINK is at 2.2v (on the scope) and doesnt seem do do anything when i press connect, does this seem right?

Tried powering up the USB before applying power to the gotek (both with NRST tied to ground and connected to RST pin) with no luck either.

Tried different USB ports, different wires and a different breadboard while clutching at straws.

Tried using the 3.3v directly to the jtag header as someone else suggested (instead of the 5v to the power connector).

I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing in Linux but I guess that's an option?!
Or failing that I'll have to wire the serial TX/Rx pins as someone else suggested.

I've decided I am too stubborn to go out and buy the correct model, so I'll keep on trying for now.

regards
Dave

[G4DDS]

Can someone who has got the rotary encoder working clarify the CLK, DT and SW connections please?

[Dietrich-L]

What exactly is the problem?
I just followed the wiki - no problems.
Dietrich

[G4DDS]

What exactly is the problem? I just followed the wiki - no problems. Dietrich

Where in the wiki are the connections for connecting a rotary encoder to the ELS34E model? I have connected many to the more standard popular Gotek models but it's the first time I've seen this one.

[Dietrich-L]

Ah, sorry. It‘s here:

See #456 but it's not easy (no header).

Dietrich

[EuphoricPenguin]

Thanks again zezba9000.

Tried powering up with the RST and NRST connected. 7 seg display reads 000 at power up and the same connection error. (same as if powering up with 07 disconnected)

The RST line from the STLINK is at 2.2v (on the scope) and doesnt seem do do anything when i press connect, does this seem right?

Tried powering up the USB before applying power to the gotek (both with NRST tied to ground and connected to RST pin) with no luck either.

Tried different USB ports, different wires and a different breadboard while clutching at straws.

Tried using the 3.3v directly to the jtag header as someone else suggested (instead of the 5v to the power connector).

I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing in Linux but I guess that's an option?! Or failing that I'll have to wire the serial TX/Rx pins as someone else suggested.

I've decided I am too stubborn to go out and buy the correct model, so I'll keep on trying for now.

regards Dave

Hey Dave,
I think I might've solved your issue. I had this exact same problem, so I took a shot in the dark and tried adding a momentary switch in series with the reset pin (as opposed to just manually pulling it), and it worked on the first try. I think some people had luck using male jumpers and a breadboard, but using a female DuPont as a switch on a male pin header is apparently too slow for the connection to succeed. I used a standard through-hole push button and added an extra DuPont female jumper to add it in-series. I hope this solves your issue. Oh, and make sure you use the st105 hex file, as the other does not work correctly (at least on my unit).

All the best,
EuphoricPenguin

[ADoozer]

Thanks EuphoricPenguin.

Still no dice.

I think the cheap STLink V2 might be my real issue.

I hooked up the scope again and I'm not seeing any clock or data activity. (Even if the clock doesn't run constantly, I would expect to see something on one of the wires when I hit connect)

I'm just gonna buy the correct version and strip this board for parts.

Regards Dave

[antoniograzioli]

I have connected my ST-Link correctly, but if I try to program it I always get an error "Could not disable Read Out protection". Like the chip is protected. And when I go to the "Option Bytes" and try to disable RDP, it fails...
Any way to disable it?

[antoniograzioli]

Thanks EuphoricPenguin.

Still no dice.

I had the same issue as yours and was not able to connect the board.
I have sucessfully connected the board by changing the Settings to "HotPlug" mode (instead of normal) and "Hardware Reset" for Reset Mode

[EuphoricPenguin]

Thanks EuphoricPenguin.

Still no dice.

I think the cheap STLink V2 might be my real issue.

I hooked up the scope again and I'm not seeing any clock or data activity. (Even if the clock doesn't run constantly, I would expect to see something on one of the wires when I hit connect)

I'm just gonna buy the correct version and strip this board for parts.

Regards Dave

Like antoniograzioli mentioned, this could be something to do with your settings. I'm pretty sure I used the default ones, though. I'm using a cheap $5 clone STLink as well, so unless you got a dud, they seem to work just fine. I've also heard people claim the pinout on the clones is wrong, but I followed mine as it was printed and it worked fine.

[antoniograzioli]

I have the same issues either with the Original ST-LInk from ST and with a Cheap clone, so I don't think the programmer is the culprit here. Try the settings as I mentioned and you'll probably be successful in connecting.

[ADoozer]

I bought a blue pill board for a couple bucks to test, and I have the same issue with the ST-Link.

I have tried with ST-Link utility, Cube programmer and cubeIDE with multiple different settings and I get the exact same error.

Note: I can update the firmware without issue and it detects the st-link serial but nothing coming out the other hole. I did manage to get some clock pulses on the scope by removing the can and poking around but they definitely weren't what I would expect a clock signal to look like

Got another ST-Link ordered so just waiting on the posty

Regards
Dave

[ADoozer]

Like antoniograzioli mentioned, this could be something to do with your settings. I'm pretty sure I used the default ones, though. I'm using a cheap $5 clone STLink as well, so unless you got a dud, they seem to work just fine. I**'ve also heard people claim the pinout on the clones is wrong**, but I followed mine as it was printed and it worked fine.

The plot thickens.

I checked the pinout, and the etching on the board doesn't match the legend on the shell.

I have belled out the 3.3v, 5v and GND rails and they are correct (Validated the GND and 5v to the USB)

I cant make out the writing on the 2nd pin from top of the right image, but from deduction this should be the SWDIO assuming the etching is correct.

Still doesn't work when connecting to the blue pill or the gotek, but its possible the board could now be cactus.

I do see something that resembles a clock now when I look at the correct pin (top pin on right image not center on right image) which is a step in the correct direction

[Edit]
It even shows the wrong print on the sellers ebay website.... :,(

[/Edit]

Regards
Dave

[zezba9000]

@ADoozer Yes with those ST-LINK V2 from China you must make sure to look at PCB and not cover.
Mine is different as well. Totally forgot to mention this. If you notice in my images this is why I have cover removed.

[ADoozer]

New ST-Link V2 = 1st time success and happiness

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this far especially zezba9000 for the detailed documents and images.

Next up gaming........ then LCD screen.

Regards
Dave

[antoniograzioli]

Followed all your instructions, I can connect using an original and a clone ST-LinkV2. Both in ST-Link utility and in Cube programmer I still have errors because "read out protection is enabled"...and when i try to disable it I get a "Cannot disable Read Out Protection" and I cannot erase memory, looks like it's protected and it's impossible to disable write protect and/or any Option Bytes...any hel appreciated at this point, or I will trahs this Floppy Drive...

[zezba9000]

Followed all your instructions, I can connect using an original and a clone ST-LinkV2. Both in ST-Link utility and in Cube programmer I still have errors because "read out protection is enabled"...and when i try to disable it I get a "Cannot disable Read Out Protection" and I cannot erase memory, looks like it's protected and it's impossible to disable write protect and/or any Option Bytes...any hel appreciated at this point, or I will trahs this Floppy Drive...

I would double check your ST-Link pins on the PCB directly like ADoozer showed is needed.

[antoniograzioli]

I have checked them, on my ST-Link the marking on the PCB and on the case are the same.. and I have also tried with an original ST-Link...always the same issues, Memory is protected and there's no way apparently to disable it...

[keirf]

You can also disable RDP through JTAG/SWD with a suitable adapter, but it's less easy to set that environment up.

[sceic]

我觉得有必要分享一些关于这个过程等的更好的图像以及每次对我有用的方法。

<< 刷新 Gotek (FDD-UDD U144K) >>

• 从 Gotek 驱动器中移除所有跳线
• 将 ST-Link-V2 编程器连接到 Gotek（图 1）
• 在Windows中安装并打开“STM32 ST-Link Utility”（图2）
• 点击 ST-Link 实用程序中的连接按钮，然后快速拔下 NRST（又名 Pin 07）
• 设备现在应该已连接（图 3）
• 注意：如果有问题，请查看图 3.5 来验证您的连接设置
• 现在将 NRST（又名引脚 07）连接到 ST-Link-V2 编程器上的 RST 引脚
• 在 ST-Link 实用程序中，转到目标->程序（图 4）
• 下载 FlashFloppy 并解压
• 选择 FlashFloppy .hex 固件文件并刷新你的 Gotek（图 5）
• 现在将跳线放在 J2 引脚上（又名 SO）
• 你完成了！

<< 如何配置 Gotek USB 驱动器 >>

• 下载 FlashFloppy 并解压
• 将“flashfloppy-vX.XX\HxC_Compat_Mode<Atari_ST OR Amiga>\AUTOBOOT.HFE”复制到“flashfloppy-vX.XX”文件夹
• 将“flashfloppy-vX.XX\HxC_Compat_Mode\HXCSDFE.CFG”复制到“flashfloppy-vX.XX”文件夹
• 将“flashfloppy-vX.XX”中的所有文件复制到您的 USB 根目录
• 创建一个 games/app 文件夹并添加“.st”文件。
• 你完成了！

<< 如何挂载 .st 文件 >>

• 打开你的 Atari/Amiga 并使用箭头键浏览菜单（点击帮助键获取帮助）
• 选择一个 .st 文件并按回车键
• 现在选择一个安装槽（可通过 Gotek 按钮选择）
• 按 F7 键以使用最后安装的 .st 映像文件重新启动计算机
• 使用 Gotek 按钮更改从配置的插槽安装的 .st 图像或重新加载 Gotek 管理器应用程序

<< 如何更新 Gotek 固件 >>

• 下载新的 FlashFloppy 固件
• 删除 USB 驱动器上的旧 FlashFloppy 文件
• 按照“如何配置 Gotek USB 驱动器”中的步骤操作
• 关闭电源，按住两个 Gotek 按钮
• 现在按住按钮打开电源（Gotek 将自行更新并重新启动）
• 重启电脑
• 你完成了！

有关更多图像和文件... 这是所需所有文件的下载链接：https://1drv.ms/u/s!Alt5wRhQYKD7gfxDsTW_32XvasHkVQ ?e=o390HO

This method successfully flashed Flashfloppy 3.41 on my EILASUNG ELS34E@2309 board, and it works well on the Yamaha qy300.