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The Grizzly Handgun




The author of these files claims absolutely no liability for any damages, criminal charges, injury, or death resulting from use of these files.


This design is based off The Grizzly 2.0 Rifle that successfully fired multiple rounds of standard velocity .22LR ammunition. The files are a ground up, from memory redraw and redesign, therefore no guarantee can be made to the successful fit or function of the following files as they have not been field tested. All safety precautions should be taken by anyone test firing a finished version (remote firing, etc.) which is done solely at the risk of the user.

Like The Grizzly 2.0 this design borrows the idea of the coiled mainsprings from the Liberator designed by Defense Distributed. Any files where the design is based on the work of Defense Distributed have been completely redrawn. No files originating from the possession of Defense Distributed are contained in this .ZIP file.

The .SLDPRT and .STEP files are included so any desired alterations can be made by the user. If you alter this design please give credit to the original authors.


Original design printed in ABSplus. No guarantee is made by the author to the fit, function or safety of any other material. Also note 3D Printer quality and finished product quality varies greatly by brand.

  • Print the spring pin and hammer & trigger pin (X2) lying on their sides for best strength.
  • Print the firing pin bushing, coil spring (X2 but it's good to print extras) and grip cap flat.
  • Print the hammer and trigger on their sides.
  • Print the spring pin bushing straight up.
  • Print the barrel straight up.
  • Print the receiver on it's side.


  • See photos in ASSEMBLY folder

For Americans wishing to follow the Undetectable Firearms Act print only the receiver and grip cap first. Epoxy at least 6oz of steel into the hollow grip and glue the cap on. Now you can print all the other parts.

Due to 3D printers not printing holes to exact dimensions it may be a good idea to have on hand a small round needle file to enlarge any holes that are too tight and a flat file to reshape any pins that come out too large.

Select a nail for your firing pin. 1" "Roofing Nails" from the local hardware store work great. They have just under a 1/8" shaft diameter. They may have barbs on the shaft that will need to be filed off, as well as any flashing around the base of the head. File the nail to 1" total length and give it a rounded, centered tip. This will help with ignition of primers. When seated fully forward the nail should protrude about .050" into the barrel socket.

After you place the nail in and check that it moves freely in the hole place the firing pin bushing in with the beveled side out facing the hammer nose. Just place the bushing in so it sits level with the surrounding surface. Once the gun is completed you can test various nails on empty cases until you get one that fires primers consistently and at that point it is recommend to glue the bushing in. Superglue works great for this but make sure not to glue the nail in place.

Next fit the coil springs over the lugs inside the receiver. Something like a butter knife will help to press it on the lug once it is started. The eyelet end of the spring will face forward, and make sure the outer large first coil loop faces the bottom of the opening even though as is the spring may not fit that well. Later, the eyelet will be pulled up and back and be positioned behind the hammer and tighten the spring as the hammer is pulled back.

Line up one of the spring eyelets so you can begin to insert the spring pin through the largest of the three holes on the side into the eyelet. While holding the spring bushing in place between the two eyelets on the inside, from the outside drive the pin through the first eyelet, through the bushing, then the other eyelet. Make sure the pin is centered so it does not catch on the inside of the receiver. Insert the trigger into the receiver. Make sure the end of the leaf spring arm goes into the slot at the bottom of the opening, it may help to push up the bottom of the coil springs near the trigger opening to move the spring bushing. Insert the trigger pin in the lower of the three holes to secure it.

Take a piece of coat hanger wire and make a small hook on one end. Use this to grab the bushing and carefully pull back the springs (not too far), and when clear fit the hammer in place while driving it's pin in through the upper small hole.

Now you can check the function. The hammer should move freely with the springs behind it, and when pulled back enough the trigger should pop under the hammer's sear ledge and cock the hammer. Pulling the trigger should release the hammer and the coil springs will snap it forward.

The barrel is easy, simply line up the lugs with the opening, insert all the way and twist clockwise until it locks into place making sure the front sight lines up the sight groove in the receiver. Perform the reverse to remove.

Do not pull the trigger much farther than it needs to be pulled or you may break the trigger spring. Repeated cocking of the hammer will create stress fractures that will weaken the coil springs and eventually lead to cracks and failure.

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