(Maybe) Building a new case for Bangle.js 2 #7229
Replies: 1 comment
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Posted at 2023-07-31 by @thyttan Would be fun to get updates on the project if you go forward with it 🙂 Posted at 2023-07-31 by @gfwilliams Sounds like a neat idea! Posted at 2023-08-05 by @halemmerich Tried the first few cuts. Went better than expected :) Attachments: Posted at 2023-08-05 by HughB Proper engineering stuff, impressive. Posted at 2023-08-10 by Minnten Hello, Interesting, on my watch one of the four holes for the batch is broken, so perhaps I will build your new case as well. Minnten Posted at 2023-08-10 by @halemmerich Thanks :) I cut down the top case a bit to get it closer the final dimensions and started carving out a bottom plate with material left for mounting the board. Attachments:
Posted at 2023-08-12 by Minnten Hello @halemmerich, have you made a bluetooth test with the bangle inside the aluminium Case? Greetings Posted at 2023-08-12 by @halemmerich Not yet, but wrapping it in aluminium foil showed that it could work. Otherwise no way to tell how it will pan out with this dark magic RF stuff before I can actually close the case and screw it down 😉 Posted at 2023-08-13 by @halemmerich Some more changes on aluminium and CAD sides... Actually a bit of matching drawing to reality :) Attachments:
Posted at 2023-08-14 by @gfwilliams Wow, that's really starting to take shape now! Posted at 2023-08-15 by @halemmerich The overall shape is done (for now) and brushed over once just to see how it can look and before doing more I will have to wait on ordered M2 screws and a matching tap to hold it together. Attachments:
Posted at 2024-06-09 by @halemmerich OK... after having broken this attempt while trying to drill and tap the screw holes the next one will not be manufactured by me. While I had fun doing this in the end my capabilities do not match my plans :D. Attachments: Posted at 2024-06-09 by user156811 One of the coolest things i've seen posted on this forum. Look forward to see what it looks like when it finished! Posted at 2024-06-10 by @halemmerich The 3D print service (JLC3DP) accepted the file (warned me of thin walls but I took the risk) and it seems to be in production now. Scheduled to be sent out in 4 days. I have no idea what to expect but hoping for the best :) The whole thing was surprisingly affordable. About 13€ shipped in 316L stainless steel SLM. Thanks to @gfwilliams for the detailed watch body file in https://forum.espruino.com/comments/17414317/. That will help me with designing a backplate that can house the HRM sensor. If I can get it out of the original case without destroying it... Posted at 2024-06-11 by @gfwilliams
That's insane! I'll have to try sending off some designs now :) I just uploaded the exact file I provided in that last post and I'm quoted $8.36 + shipping for stainless. Potentially it's still quite a bit of work to swap out the aerial, HRM and charge connector (and the aerial is going to be no use inside the metal case anyway) but it's a very interesting option! edit: I wonder what the tolerances will be like on it (it says 0.3mm which seems pretty good). In a way it's a shame it's not aluminium because then you could have finished off any mating surfaces with your mill - stainless is usually a bit of a pain to machine Posted at 2024-06-11 by Ivor This is amazing! I've got a little project to refurbish some 'heritage' window fittings at the moment - modelling them on my 3d printer - and this looks like the perfect service to get them fabricated properly 👍 (also a little bit jealous of your mill) 😀 Posted at 2024-06-11 by @halemmerich I plan to glue the watch together with either low melt hot glue or B-7010 double sided tape to be able to take it apart relatively easily. The surface roughness might play to my advantage there. @Ivor: My mill is a set of old stuff I bought used for relatively cheap, Proxxon KT150 and BFB2000 (filled the pipe in the back with concrete) as the base and a Kress 1050 milling motor. It just about does aluminium well enough but it takes a lot of time doing this manually and it is very easy to make mistakes. If I had known how cheap 3D printing services had become I probably never would have tried to mill the case myself. *1: Posted at 2024-06-11 by @halemmerich Cobbled a design together for the Backplate with space for the HRM using the file of the original one as reference. Seems to be thicker than I expected but I will see when I try to disassemble an HRM. Attachments: Posted at 2024-06-14 by Chriz @halemmerich that's a great project! Maybe you can help me with your experiences with my own project. I am working on a project to make the bangle js 2 waterproof. I decided to go buttonless because I fear the button is the main issue and many smart bands use the same approach. And it can easily be done by modifying the existing backcover 3D design. I already modified it and removed the button and barometer hole. Did you find a fully waterproof button? Currently I am working on the software part to make the bangle js 2 and the existing apps useable without a button by sending "virtual" button events based on accelerometer double taps. It is partly working and looks promising. Did you already dissassemble a bangle js 2? I only tried it with a magic 3 and it was easy with a fan but later I broke the display cable. Is there a reason you decided to use usb charging? I hoped that the charging pins are easy and waterproof to glue and can be used for swd without opening the watch. Any idea where I can buy charging pins because I don't think I get them removed from the original bangle? Thank you! Posted at 2024-06-14 by @gfwilliams Just a quick thought - did you consider trying to make an outer case for the Bangle to waterproof it? For example if you could get something printed in flexible rubber that went around the side of the Bangle and then you glued it on, that might allow you to waterproof it while still using the button? Posted at 2024-06-14 by @halemmerich
I plan to use normal momentary switches and cover them in silicone. My design has 2mm deep cavities which should make for a few tenths of silicone over the button. That will hopefully be flexible enough to use the button and still hold up to daily use.
I had tried this by listening to the
Multiple Bangles, some of them multiple times :) My current way of choice for warming the Bangle up is a pot with a bit of simmering water and a flat top. My cookware has flat glass lids which get close to 100° with the steam from the simmering water. I just place the Bangle display down on the glass until it is hot enough. I have a heat gun with temperature settings but that has not worked as well for me.
Multiple:
Maybe there is ABS as a very thin sheet or even film which could be "glued" over the button with acetone? Posted at 2024-06-16 by @halemmerich It is here and it is awesome! Ordered last Sunday, reviewed and payed for on Monday, delivered Saturday using the second cheapest delivery option. Some things I have discovered:
Watch body is 316L SLM and bottom plate is just 0.8mm stainless sheet, cut with tin snips and filed to match the body. Attachments:
Posted at 2024-06-17 by @gfwilliams Wow, that looks great! Out of interest how is the touchscreen when surrounded by the stainless? also, just interested but where did you get the watch from? Are they still for sale? Last I heard SMA weren't selling them any more Posted at 2024-06-17 by @halemmerich That is the "BT dead on arrival" for parts mainboard that you sent me a while ago. Since the board is unusable anyway I decided to use it as the first victim for trying to solder the USB-C port to. Good idea, since I ripped a pad of it straight away... The screen is also an old one which is somewhat broken so no real info regarding that until I use one of my actually working ones :) Will try that when there is less shoehorning going on. Posted at 2024-06-27 by @devsnd Wow, this is really cool! My son just recently accidentally banged up my bangle on the playground, so I thought it would be nice to have something to ruggedize the watch before it's too late. Since I don't have the same dedication as halemmerich to transplant the whole watch, I though about creating an outer shell for the current watch housing that reduces risk of the screen getting deep scratches or cracks. @halemmerich, from your experience, do you think that a shell with 1mm thickness around the outer borders of the watch would work? Something that could then be attached to the original housing using some glue, maybe? (That reminds me, I should also share some of my original designs for a charging pedestal that I 3d printed for myself!) Posted at 2024-06-27 by @gfwilliams I should add that we do sell https://shop.espruino.com/banglejs2-cover if you want something easy - but those are silicone, so might not be as protective as something solid Posted at 2024-06-27 by @devsnd Thanks for the hint, @gfwilliams! I'm not entirely sure (and I can't really tell from the pictures), but to me it looks like the silicone does not really extend above the glass that much and that's what I'd like to better protect. If anyone has a better picture with the silicone cover on from the side, I'd be much obliged! Posted at 2024-06-30 by @devsnd I converted the Step file of the banglejs housing (thanks @gfwilliams) to an obj that which I imported to fusion 360 to create the metal cover rim that fits around the BJS2. I just finished printing the plastic sample and I'm quite happy with the result, even though the white certainly ruins the look, but that's just the filament I currently have loaded into my 3d printer... So I also did a render in fusion 360 so I could have a better idea what the metal part would look like. Since @halemmerich mentioned that the part tolerances are good but might be a tiny bit off, I'll just order multiple pieces at 95%, 97%, 100%, 102% and 105% scale and check which works best. (For cost reduction, I'll try to order a single item that I have to saw apart, let's see if that works) Attachments: Posted at 2024-07-01 by @halemmerich I have given the border around the display an additional 0,5mm in x and y direction in my drawing and it fits loosely in the case. I did not try to measure that with a feeler gauge (lost those somewhere) but there seem to be about 0,3mm space all around the display so I would suspect you can be closer around 100% size for your tries. Maybe 101% and 102% to leave a bit of room for glue if you have your current CAD at a perfect fit. Since the turnaround is just about one week (JLCPCB->Germany) and postage is not that bad a second try is not a big problem. If this fits well and works nicely with Bluetooth and GPS you could think about removing the original watchband holders and modeling them on the case. There are some people having broken those off and having them in steel is probably more rugged. Posted at 2024-07-02 by @devsnd My attempt at having them print a connected part to try multiple sizes failes, as connected parts are not allowed for metal prints. Anyway, I now ordered a single one: I remeasured my actual watch with a caliper and added 0.3mm on all sides. Fingers crossed it fits! @halemmerich I really like your idea of adding watchband holders to the metal part. This would require people to remove the original holders, but could also be a much cleaner design. If this fits nicely I'll add the holders to the CAD model and provide it for everybody to print/order themselves. It could also be a very simple and cheap way to repair broken BJS2s Posted at 2024-07-05 by @halemmerich That's a really elegant solution to the ruggedness problem. If it weren't for USB-C and a bigger battery that I want I would definitely go down your route. Doing the full transplant is very time consuming and the risk of killing the donor bangle is considerable. Posted at 2024-07-10 by @devsnd I finally received the 3d printed metal part and it fits perfectly, a slight press fit. With a drop of glue it should hold on fine for day to day usage. If the wrist band holders would also be made of metal and part of the cover, there would be no need at all for any glue, since the watch would stay sandwiched in place between wrist and watch-cover. Anyway, I'm trying to figure out if I leave the finish as is, or if I should try to brush the metal using a Dremel bit on my small CNC... I don't even know if there is any pretty finishing to be achieved with the printed metal parts. Please tell me if anyone has any ideas Attachments: Posted at 2024-07-10 by @devsnd I sanded it down a bit and it looks much nicer now. I got to keep sanding, bit I only have 120 grit paper right now. it still has the look as if Tony stark made this in a cave... But also maybe that is exactly how a banglejs2 is supposed to look Attachments: Posted at 2024-07-11 by @gfwilliams Wow, that's awesome! I guess if you just ground off the Bangle's existing strap mount lugs then you could do them as part of the print without bulking it up too much? Posted at 2024-07-11 by @halemmerich The stainless is relatively soft and thus sensitive to scratches. I think the somewhat rustic optics you have now should withstand use pretty well. Could be nice combined with maybe band from wooden elements. How is GPS, BT and touch for you? Posted at 2024-07-12 by user157973 i cant buy on your site because no shipping to my country. Posted at 2024-07-13 by @devsnd Haven't tried gps yet, but touch and bluetooth work flawlessly thus far. IDK if there's a Bluetooth benchmark of sorts that I could use to get any measurements instead of anecdata. I'll try and order a new version with thinner outer walls and als wrist band holders. All in all I am very happy with the outcome. It doesn't only make the watch more rugged, but I really like the style (and I even like the considerable weight it adds... It feels more "valuable") Anyway, I'm on the phone now, but I'll provide STLs for anybody who want to order some covers themselves soon Posted at 2024-07-18 by Poolitzer Hi I would like to order those could you upload the STLs? Posted at 2024-07-25 by @devsnd Hey @Poolitzer, Sorry, I did not check for any new messages in the forum. Here's the STL of the current cover design. I ordered it on jlc3dp.com using SLM 316L steel manufacturing. It cost 8$ + shipping and fit pretty much perfectly as is. I will try to make a new design that also has wrist-band holders and a little thinner walls (currently I used 1.5mm, and I'll try to go down to 1mm) in the coming days. Attachments: Posted at 2024-07-25 by Poolitzer Ah I will wait for that then, keep us updated. Thanks for the file though! Posted at 2024-07-27 by @devsnd I completed the watch cover with thinner walls and the wristband holders. I've ordered one, but I cannot guarantee that it'll turn out fine, especially with the small holes for the wristband. @Poolitzer if you're feeling lucky, you could already order one, but I'll be able to tell you if this works out in about a week or so, when the part arrives at my place. Attachments: Posted at 2024-07-27 by Poolitzer Woawh that looks like annoying to design. Im happy to let you try it first, if it doesn't work out I can order the first modified one and you could wait if that turns out fine on my end then :D Posted at 2024-08-10 by @halemmerich Since I could not get the watch built in the mark 2 case I have ordered the third revision. Mark 2 had the problem that it completely turned the order of things on its head. The display goes first and then everything need to be assembled (and soldered) the "wrong" way around. To alleviate that mark 3 is designed to allow building on the base plate and then put the top including the display over it to be more similar to the original construction. I ordered in nylon SLS in to get similar precision as metal SLM but much cheaper prototypes. Surface is a bit rougher than SLM but overall quite good. Even very thin walls worked out mostly fine. Still some fine tuning needed but it seems get close. Now I "just" need to assembly it into a working Bangle :) Attachments:
Posted at 2024-08-10 by Poolitzer Oh I understood from Mark 1 you just pressed it on. So for this version you need to dissemble the plastic body and reassemble it in the metal body? Then I would order Mark 1 I do not trust my soldering skills to do this without breaking the watch :D Posted at 2024-08-10 by @halemmerich Sadly this will always need disassembly of the original watch. There are 3 main points which are common to all my versions and were solved by soldering:
The button is actually soldered to a bit of flat flex cable taken from the backlight LEDs of a broken Bangle display. I would say what I am doing has a very high risk of killing the donor bangle. Not quite sure if it is actually worth doing. It currently is more of an experiment just because I (maybe) can ;) I have never designed flat flex cables, so maybe that would be a way to at least remove the most difficult parts of the soldering job, but currently it is definitely at the absolute limit of my abilities. The design by @devsnd will get you the best way to get a more rugged Bangle. I will order one as well since my design is not close to be a daily driver. As for progress:
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Posted at 2024-08-10 by Poolitzer Omg you arent devsnd I confused you two Im sorry Posted at 2024-08-11 by @halemmerich The botched button flat flex could not take the abuse of soldering thick solid core wire to it, so I had to make my own... Thankfully that wasn't too hard, some kapton style tape and a bit of copper tape does the job just fine. @gfwilliams is there a better way to get power to the LED than the 3.3V "testpoint" on the board? The plan is to use one of the LEDs with a resistor in series to get to 20mA. I noticed LED+ and LED- written on some points, can those be controlled in software and maybe deliver a current without needing a resistor in series? Attachments:
Posted at 2024-08-12 by @gfwilliams The flashlight is a great idea! I don't think there's an easier way to get at the LED than the 'LED' pad. Those will be connected to the backlight, and the only control we have is on/off - they go via a FET. I'm not sure 100% but the LED pins will have their own resistor as they are for the backlight, but if you're lucky, it might be that LED- is a FET to GND, and LED+ is the resistor - so to attach your own LED you can ignore LED+ and connect your LED and resistor between LED- and VBAT. There is another option... On the PCB there are UARX/UATX pins which are unused and brought out to pads (https://www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical#gpio). You could buy a surface mount FET device in something like a SOT23 pack, then scrape a bit of the solder resist off the PCB near UATX (under that is a ground plane) and solder the SOT23 to the board - and then you can connect a LED via a resistor to VBAT and you've got pretty much as much power available as you want. Posted at 2024-08-12 by Ivor oh wow I love the idea of the extra button hack one thing that I really miss from the bangle1 on the 2 is extra tactile buttons. I think you can make much easier to navigate user interfaces that way. Posted at 2024-08-12 by @devsnd My rugged cover finally arrived! (I was a bit stingy on the postage this time, so I had to wait longer). It came out great, I'm wearing it on my arm right now, it's a perfect fit. BUT the holes for the watch-band are a teeny-tiny bit to small, so I had to find the smallest drill bit (I used one from my small CNC) and used my dremel to enlargen the holes by a fraction of a millimeter, but then everything fits nicely. (Lemon for scale) So it's not perfect, I cannot recommend ordering it if you don't have the tools to enlargen the holes. Other than that it's also a little less bulky, I reduced the wall thickness down from 1.5mm to 1.0mm (had to send a confirmation to JLC3DP, because they say the margins are too small, but as I said, it came out perfectly). Also I reduced height of the cover, the upper surface is almost flush with the screen, but not completely (about 0.5mm headroom), which is enough for most accidental bumps. (I cannot save the screen from cracking when direct force is applied in any case). I still have to sand the surface this evening to make it look nice, which will take a lot longer this time, as there are more edges and angles. I am very happy with the result so far. @Poolitzer If you have a small drill at home, you could go ahead and order the cover as is from the STL I uploaded last time, but I will also provide an updated version with a bit larger holes in the coming days. Attachments: Posted at 2024-08-12 by Poolitzer Wow this looks amazing. I can wait, I don't have that small of a drill xD Posted at 2024-08-12 by @halemmerich That's awesome @devsnd. We might be getting close to needing to change from "protecting the Bangle" to "how to protect stuff from the Bangle" :D What is the diameter on these holes? In nylon SLS 1.5mm is actually a tiny bit to big. Still functional but a bit wobbly. Thanks for the infos @gfwilliams, lots of stuff to think about and experiment with. Especially the two free pads. Could I just put a button on each one to 3.3V without further hardware and do the rest in software or are there pull-up/down or current limiting resistors needed? Probably that's all integrated in the chip anyway but I don't want to fry it. I imagine using something similar to the three button control scheme of the first Bangle would be awesome. Posted at 2024-08-12 by Ivor you won't need pullup/down resistors you can control that internally on the gpio ports. You'd want to connect the buttons to gnd with an internal pullup. Posted at 2024-08-13 by @gfwilliams That's looking great @devsnd!
Yes! GND or VCC will work, but GND is probably more readily available as you can just scratch away at the solder resist almost anywhere on the PCB and get to the ground plane. Posted at 2024-08-13 by @allObjects Very neat - and inspiring! ...especially the extra control and connectivity. Posted at 2024-08-13 by @halemmerich I have tested the bigger battery while wearing the prototype. GPS and HRM on always on got to well over 15 hours runtime. That's actually a bit better than I expected from the volume increase of the battery. Attachments:
Posted at 2024-08-14 by @devsnd
True! Apparently the printed steel is almost as durable as CNC machines steel, so it's definitely absolute overkill. Maybe I'll make another STL with even thinner walls for those who want to dare ordering one.
Since the rest of the cover was really spot on on terms of size, I used exactly 1.0mm, but I should probably use 1.2mm or so to make it fit without modifications Posted at 2024-08-14 by @devsnd I'm really jealous of your additional buttons: it's one of the features I listed in the banglejs3-wishlist-thread to be my favourite changes. A real flashlight is also a very cool addition, I keep using my phone for that, but I don't always have it on me. The flashlight could also be a great notification indicator for busy environments when the vibration might not be enough to get my attention (e.g. doing sports) Posted at 2024-08-14 by @halemmerich The flashlight is not connected to some controllable output, it currently just is powered by a 3.3V rail on the mainboard. Maybe a light connected in parallel to the buzzer would be cool for notifications. Since there are only two unused GPIO I will probably use those for buttons. Posted at 2024-08-15 by @halemmerich @gfwilliams is the pin numbering on this page: https://infocenter.nordicsemi.com/topic/ps_nrf52840/pin.html?cp=5_0_0_6_0_1#qfn48 the same as on https://www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical#gpio? Edit: It seems those pins are not usable as analog pins. At least Posted at 2024-08-17 by @devsnd I finally got to sanding the bangle cover and also to make the adjustments to the STL. This time I sanded the cover with the dremel instead of by hand and it's much shinier than the first one. Anyway I really like it and for now I haven't encountered any problems with this design. @Poolitzer the STL attached to this post has a wristband-holder hole size of 1.25mm, instead of the 1mm I had ordered. You should be able to give that a try and if we're all lucky, it comes out perfect for you, no modifications needed. Tell me how it goes! Oh and by the way, if anyone wants to have the first version, without the wristband holders, I now have a spare one that I would send out for free. Whoever wants it, just tell me where to send it to. It fits perfectly on the bangle without modifications, but I always put a drop of glue between the bangle and the cover so it wouldn't get loose over time. Attachments: Posted at 2024-08-18 by @halemmerich That looks great, definitely easier on the eyes than my concoction :D Posted at 2024-08-20 by Poolitzer Ordering it now thank you so much for providing them, will definitely give an update how it turns out. Posted at 2024-08-22 by @halemmerich Mk3 currently survives nicely as a daily driver and will now have to stand up to a hiking trip. Mk4 with a bit of tuning to the outside like the now internalized buttons has arrived and I will build it in probably two or three weeks. Attachments:
Posted at 2024-08-27 by @gfwilliams @halemmerich I'm afraid the numbering isn't the same, no. Basically:
Posted at 2024-08-30 by @halemmerich Thanks, that then matches what I see when using those pins. Posted at 2024-09-01 by @halemmerich The SLS nylon definitely is porous. I put one of my prints into water and overnight it soaked through... I'll try to coat it from the inside with something to get the prototypes more resistant but metal is probably the way to go. Maybe resin printing would be better as well but it really does not handle temperature well. Attachments: Posted at 2024-09-04 by @gfwilliams Oh wow, thanks for the update - that's very interesting! I always assumed it would be ok. Maybe SLA prints would be better - they've got to be surely? I wonder if (if you don't care about dimensional accuracy) you could run over it with a hot air gun and re-melt the surface to fill up any potential holes? Posted at 2024-09-04 by @halemmerich
Pretty sure they are. Any remaining liquid resin inside the print should be cured after they blast it with UV after the print itself.
I actually tried that after sanding one of the prints to get a better surface finish. Using a 630°C heatgun the outer edges melted a bit and became black and shiny but the flat faces did not melt before everything was so hot that it started warping. I think to be able to do this one would need a part with substantially more volume to have a chance to melt the surface without destroying the part. Or maybe freeze it beforehand :) Posted at 2024-10-29 by Beathoven Hey there, sorry to revive this thread two months later, but I really like this approach and am considering doing this myself. However, I'd like to use this opportunity to fix one of my major annoyances that I had when switching from my trusty old Pebble to the Bangle - the 20mm strap. So if I'm going to have new strap mounts anyway, why not make them 22mm ones like on my old Pebble? Since I'm not an expert at 3D modeling and STL files are not ideal for being altered after the fact anyway, I'd like to ask you: Would it be easy for you to make a 22mm version of this as well? If that's too much to ask, could you maybe send me the original project file so I can try and figure out how to do it myself? That would be extremely appreciated! Thank you for this amazing design! Posted at 2024-10-30 by @halemmerich I'm a bit short on time lately, but I got to tinker a bit on the Mk4 prototype. It is painted for improved water resistance but I don't like that a lot since it seems and feels cheap. Final one will probably have a metal underside and some sort of waterproof plastic for the top. Attachments:
Posted at 2024-10-31 by @devsnd @user159197 Here you go! I just had to make some parts of the model parameterizable and then it was easy to change the width of the wristband from 20mm to 22mm afterwards. This also includes the fix from my first try, with the slightly larger holes for the wristband mounting bar (using 1.25mm instead of 1mm holes), so I hope this works for you out of the box :) @halemmerich, that looks really good! I'm starting to get pretty jealous of your 3 buttons and the usb-c port there. I hope airport security won't ask you to much about your watch next time you fly, though ;) Attachments: Posted at 2024-11-01 by Beathoven Awesome, thank you so much! I have taken the liberty of editing this thing a bit further. The wristband mounting points were not large enough in their new positions, resulting in some valleys between them and the main body. I also closed up the holes on the outsides. Since all metal 3D printing services are either ridiculously expensive where I live or have long (and also relatively expensive) shipping, I'm probably going to fire up my resin printer and do a test print before pulling the trigger. But in the end, I'd like to have this thing in either blackened steel or polished brass. Maybe I'll get around to posting some pictures. Attachments: Posted at 2024-11-02 by @halemmerich
Haha, yes, that is probably worth a bit of consideration... Programming a microcontroller based temperature-control on a breadboard in a long-distance bus got me some peculiar glances of other passengers. 😂 Posted at 2024-11-04 by @halemmerich Mk4 is soldered and glued together. Flashlight, additional buttons and even the selfmade BT antenna all seem to work.
Now I just need to find actual use-cases for those :) First try will be just emitting swipe/drag events to use them for scrolling menus. It is totally awesome that Espruino gives us so much easily accessible flexibility for tinkering. Attachments:
Posted at 2024-11-04 by Beathoven Holy Christ on toast, that clamp hedgehog :D This project sounds awesome though. Probably the one thing I miss most since switching over from my trusty old Pebble is the physical buttons. I understand that touchscreens are very flexible and make super compact device like this way easier to manufacture, but I just vastly prefer physical buttons, especially on something that's on my wrist. They're just way more precise. Depending on how your project goes, I might replicate it one day. Posted at 2024-11-05 by @gfwilliams This looks great! How hard was it to separate the LCD from the glass? Posted at 2024-11-05 by @halemmerich Actually not that hard. It seems the optically clear glue between glass and digitiser can be broken down with isopropanol. I practically soaked the whole assembly and pulled a thin nylon string between glass and digitiser to separate them. But it destroys the other glues as well, so just removing the glass will not work, the whole thing came apart, including backlight distribution plate. I do not know if it can be put together well enough to use. This display already had a partly malfunctioning digitiser, so I took it apart just to see if it was possible. Touch seems the same as before but that is a sample size of one. I ran into a problem with the buttons, there seems to be a limit to used GPIOs at the same time or something. Using both works fine if the HRM is off. Otherwise I get Attachments:
Posted at 2024-11-19 by Beathoven Hey there, sorry to bother you again, but would it be possible for you to share the original project file? I was planning on having the case CNC machined, but STL files are not suitable for this purpose, and all my attempts to convert it have resulted in files with artifacts which the various CNC services have rejected. If I had the original file, I could make my adjustments in whatever software you used and then directly export it as a clean STEP file. Posted at 2024-11-27 by @devsnd Hey @beathoven, sorry for the long wait, here's the file. Tell me if this works for you (i used the free version of fusion 360 to make it), otherwise I can maybe export it in another format Attachments: |
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Posted at 2023-07-30 by @halemmerich
I wanted to have a go at FreeCAD and thought designing a case for the bangle would be nice to try out modeling something to actually build for the first time :)
Wishlist:
TODO:
Has somebody attempted something like this? I am sure this will take some iterations and probably fail in the end but no way of knowing without trying, eh?
I have an old manual proxxon desktop mill that can do about 0.1mm precision and some other tools and want to do this in aluminium.
I'll attach the FreeCAD file but be assured that it probably is not well done as I do not have experience with it or CAD at all.
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