[Bangle.js 2] modification: add buzzer, bigger battery, more switches, minus HRM #7292

espruino-discuss2 · 2025-02-12T18:05:20Z

espruino-discuss2
Feb 12, 2025
Maintainer

Posted at 2024-09-15 by JeonLab

I couldn't find (maybe missed) any post that anyone tried to replace the vibration motor with a buzzer which I think it's more useful.
Before opening my precious watch, I'd like to find out whether any buzzer can fit in the space. I couldn't find the dimension of the motor from the technical detail page, so can anyone let me know the size (diameter and thickness) of the motor in the Bangle.js 2?
Then I would start looking for a buzzer with that size.
Any comments will be appreciated.
Thanks,

J

espruino-discuss2 · 2025-02-12T18:05:22Z

espruino-discuss2
Feb 12, 2025
Maintainer Author

Posted at 2024-09-16 by @gfwilliams

The hole is around 8.4mm but I don't fancy your chances. Even if you found one it's in the middle of the watch so is unlikely to make much noise.

All I could suggest is maybe you could epoxy a tiny one (10mm or so) to the rear of the watch and put the battery over it, but you might have to look at using a smaller/thinner battery to get the space for it.

Posted at 2024-09-16 by JeonLab

Thank you, @gfwilliams for your reply. Well, I'm not sure how loud sound I would get with such a small buzzer (if I could find one) in the middle of the watch fully surrounded by other components in a sealed case. I guess you are suggesting to attach a thin piezo, but I'm not sure how loud it would be without any amplifier which will take up space as well. Maybe I can put some SMD amp where the motor used to be.
Thanks again. If I make any progress, I will update this post.

BTW, what's the thickness of the motor?

Posted at 2024-09-17 by @gfwilliams

The motor is 2.1mm thick

The motor itself has an FET driving it, so if you were to replace the motor and use those pins you would have some amplification anyway

Posted at 2024-09-17 by JeonLab

@gfwilliams, thanks again for your reply.
Yeah, that's what I thought about the FET driving the motor. So I was going to ask if there is any schematic I can see. Is there a schematic? Maybe I missed it, but couldn't find one.
I have used Bangle.js 2 for about 6 months now and really love it. For everyday use with watch and notification, the battery lasts more than 2 weeks. I haven't actually tested, but maybe longer. During the weekend, with my golfing app, I enjoy every feature the Bangle.js 2 has. If I could successfully replace the motor with a buzzer, that will be perfect.
Thanks!!

Posted at 2024-09-17 by @fanoush

I guess you are suggesting to attach a thin piezo

I think piezo may not work "as is" but magnetic buzzer will as it is very similar in principle to motor.
Similar discussion is in the Amiibo topic https://forum.espruino.com/conversations/388395/?offset=25#17378471
Some are quite small so I guess this is doable.

Posted at 2024-09-18 by @gfwilliams

There's no schematic, no. But there is https://www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical which does contain a lot of information about it.

I think piezo may not work "as is"

Yes, you'd probably have to put a resistor across it at minimum if driving from a FET.

Posted at 2024-09-18 by JeonLab

Thanks, Gordon.
I will figure it out.

Posted at 2024-11-19 by JeonLab

I (finally) opened the watch and attached a 27mm diameter piezo disc (with cutting sides to fit in the case) directly to the pin D43 (UATX) and GND. Even without a MOSFET, it sounded loud enough before reassembling the watch. But after assembling the watch and glued the screen, the sound level decreased significantly as expected. It was kind of an experiment. The piezo disc was not glued to any hard surface (such as inside of the watch back) which is needed for the disc vibrate properly.
My eventual goal is listed as below.

Modify (redesign and 3D print) the case for bigger battery and serviceability (screws instead of glue) and hard (aluminum maybe) back cover for the piezo disc.
Add a MOSFET driver for the piezo disc using one of the pins, D42 or D43.
Move the buzz motor to side of the watch and glue to the case for better buzz feel.
Add a button switch to one of the extra pins (D42 or D43)
Unfortunately the HRM sensor will be removed due to the back cover with the piezo disc. I don't really need the HRM anyway.

I wish I had another extra pin for digital input, but I guess there is no more extra pin, is there? If there is one, I could add one more switch. Actually, if I could use 2 DI pins, I could add 3 switches using binary input.

The reason why I want a bigger battery is for my golfing (golf-gps). Because it needs the GPS on all the time, the battery lasts about 5 hours which is normally fine even if there is some delay on the course. But if there is a longer delay, the watch can't work until the end of the game.
Just an FYI, the battery usually lasts longer than 3 weeks with normal usage (clock, notifications from the phone, and occasional HRM).

I'm also very much interested in Gordon's GPS low level communication that he improved the fix time a lot. I'd like to find a way to reduce battery consumption by the GPS, power saving mode or data retrieving frequency adjustment, etc.

Attachments:

IMG_1080.JPEG

Posted at 2024-11-19 by @halemmerich

How do you drive the piezo in software? Just triggering the output pin in a loop?

Your wishes for a new case seem similar to mine, maybe you can find some useful information in my thread trying to design a custom case. https://forum.espruino.com/conversations/388860/

Posted at 2024-11-19 by JeonLab

@halemmerich, yes, I saw your post for the custom case. That looks pretty good.

Here is the function to drive the piezo.

function piezoBuzz(pin, frequency, times, duration, pause) {
  let count = 0;

  function buzz() {
    if (count < times) {
      analogWrite(pin, 0.5, {
        freq: frequency
      });
      setTimeout(() => {
        analogWrite(pin, 0);
        setTimeout(() => {
          count++;
          buzz();
        }, pause);
      }, duration);
    }
  }
  buzz();
}

And here is an example to call the function.

piezoBuzz(D43, 5600, 2, 200, 200); //UATX pin, 5.6kHz, twice, 200ms pulse, 200ms pause

Posted at 2024-11-19 by @halemmerich

Nice, I did not know that analogWrite could do PWM with custom frequency.

Posted at 2024-11-19 by JeonLab

Nice, I did not know that analogWrite could do PWM with custom frequency.

Yes, analogWrite does the job. You can also change the duty cycle. In my code above, 0.5 after the pin parameter is for 50% of duty cycle.

Posted at 2024-11-20 by @gfwilliams

Great! If you had another spare pin (UARX?) you could put the piezo between the two which effectively doubles the voltage swing on it: https://www.espruino.com/NRF52LL#create-a-square-wave-on-pin-d0-with-the-inverse-of-the-square-wave-on-d1-

Just a thought, but if you're getting rid of the HRM I'd maybe think about drilling out the HRM hole and then gluing the piezo to the back of the case. That way the case would be sealed but you'd have a way for the sound to escape.

As for extra IO, if you're willing to dig around on the board you might be able to find something. For instance I don't know if GPS BOOT is actually the GPS power signal or some other pin that I haven't noticed so far.

Or maybe if you're disconnecting the HRM then the pins for that might be on testpoints?

https://www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical is a good start but I imagine you found that already!

Posted at 2024-11-20 by JeonLab

That's interesting to be able to double the voltage. I will take a look. But I still want another extra pin(s) for additional switches, so I will see if I can find any other unused pins.
@gfwilliams, I have asked this question before, but if there is a schematic available, it would be easy to trace/find an extra pin. If the schematic is not available for public, can you tell me at least how many layers in the PCB? If it's just 2 layers (top and bottom), I may be able to trace those test points.

Since I'm not going to use the HRM, I guess I can use some of those pins like HRM_INT, HRM_SDA or HRM_SCL from the connector. Can I get the pinouts of the HRM header?

Thanks!

Posted at 2024-11-20 by @gfwilliams

There's no schematic, no. I believe the PCB is 4 layers so it's not easy to trace out!

Basically everything I know is in https://www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical

But if you find a testpoint, all the pins we know are marked in that doc so you can just try toggling/reading the other pins and see if anything happens?

Posted at 2024-11-20 by JeonLab

Thank you, Gordon.
I'll try. It's going to be fun! :)

Posted at 2024-11-21 by JeonLab

I disconnected the HRM connector and checked each pins to find which is which. So I located 4 pins (D21: HRM_POWER, D22: HRM_INT, D24: HRM_SDA, D32: HRM_SCL). I was excited to see if I could use them as digital input for extra switches. Of course, the HRM power was off.
But it seems only two pins are allowed to use. I got an error WARNING: No free GPIOTE for watch if I tried to set more than 2 pins as digital inputs as @halemmerich also mentioned HERE.

I couldn't find any information on the GPIOTE and why I got the errors. Does anyone have any clue?
Thanks.

Update:
It looks like I would need to use nRF52 low level interface library, but have no clue how to use it. Is this the one I need to look at or should I do something else?
Thanks.

Update 2:
So, I guess the GPIOTE (GPIO task and event) has certain limited number. And the pins for the HRM seems to be already taken in the Bootloader or firmware. If this is correct, how can I remove pre-assigned GPIOTE for the HRM?

Posted at 2024-11-22 by @gfwilliams

I do occasionally see WARNING: No free GPIOTE for watch on a totally normal Bangle, so I wouldn't worry about it.

It's complaining about an issue setting a hardware watch with setWatch - but are you actually trying to do that, or are you just reading the pins with digitalRead?

It's possible that there is an issue with HRM_INT because the firmware may be inserting its own watch on that for the HRM at a lower level? It should still work as a GPIO though, and other pins should be able to be watched

Posted at 2024-11-22 by JeonLab

Well, I was trying to use the hardware watch, setWactch to monitor switches all the time. I will try with digitalRead and report back.
Thanks.

Posted at 2024-11-25 by JeonLab

From the HRM connector header, I could only identify HRM_SDA (D24) and HRM_SCL (D32). I guess the other pins (HRM_INT and HRM_POWER) are gated. It’s hard to trace without removing components which likely damage parts.
Gordon already answered that the schematic is not available and no answers from anyone for my question about the HRM header pinout, so my guess is Bagle.js’ software is open, but not the hardware.
I really want just one more pin. Can anyone just let me know whether any of those pins, HRM_INT and HRM_POWER or both, are exposed and accessible on the PCB and where they are if accessible?

Thanks.

Posted at 2024-11-26 by @gfwilliams

So you've got HRM_SDA/HRM_SCL/UARX/UATX - that's 4 pins?

I don't know of others I'm afraid, but you could always look at using an I2C or OneWire IO expander? You could glue a chip to the PCB and then wire from that to the pins.

OR if it's just for buttons, connect each button to one IO pin with a resistor to GND, then when you see the IO pin drop to GND in a setWatch, remove the watch, set the pin high and then lower it, and see how long it takes to hit 0 again, and the time taken will depend on the value of the resistor and hence the button.

Something like:

function buttonWatch() {
setWatch(function(a) {
  PIN.set();
  setWatch(function(b) {
    print(b.time - a.time);
    buttonWatch();
  }, PIN, { edge:"falling"});
  PIN.read();
}, PIN, { edge:"falling"});

buttonWatch();

If it works well enough then potentially you could even use 2^n resistor values so you can detect more than one button being held at a time

Posted at 2024-11-26 by JeonLab

@gfwilliams, I was looking for easier and simple solution by using existing pins. I know, I'm lazy. :)
Your suggested method with resistors looks very interesting. I will definitely try it. I was thinking to use a combination with diodes, but I will see which one works better.
Thank you Gordon for sharing your brilliant ideas as always.
I will try a few approaches and report back.

Posted at 2024-11-26 by Ivor

also, I think the UARX and UATX pins can be configured as analog IO so you could use buttons with resistors against those for a simple solution also?

Posted at 2024-11-26 by @gfwilliams

I think UART are on 42/43 (P1.10,P1.11) which I'm pretty sure aren't analog? It's usually 2..5 + 28..31 and those don't seem on anything that's easily available: https://www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical

Posted at 2024-11-26 by JeonLab

D43 and D42 work as either digital I/O or analog output, not for input.

Posted at 2024-11-26 by Ivor

ah good point. got my numbers wrong! doh. 🤦‍♂️

Posted at 2024-11-26 by JeonLab

Here is my solution with diodes. See attached animated gif.
Three digital input (input_pullup, no additional 100k resistors in the image are needed) pins with 3 diodes will be used. As mentioned before, only 2 pins can be watched by setWatch with interrupts, so I will set two pins (D32 and D24) for setWatch and the third pin, D42, can be combined in the code to watch. In other words, no matter which button is pressed, always one or both of D32 and D24 will be triggered. This way, with only 2 interrupts, 4 pins can be monitored. Actually, there is one more combination, D24 and D42, is available for another switch if needed.
I saved one pin, D43, for an analog output for the buzzer.

Attachments:

ezgif.com-animated-gif-maker.gif

Posted at 2024-11-28 by @enaon

As mentioned before, only 2 pins can be watched by setWatch with interrupts

can you verify this? Maybe you have 4 watches already running, and you are hitting a limit of 6. I have seen this limit in the past, on the Rock watch, with fanoush's firmware I could not enable a watch for the second button, with jefmer's it was ok, I think the bangle2 firmware has the same limit.

Maybe run this on the console to check how many you have running.
global["\xFF"].watches

Posted at 2024-11-29 by JeonLab

I just tested setWatch with 3 pins (D32, D24 and D22 (found this pin additionally)) and confirmed only the first 2 pins with setWatch work. I don't know how many GPIOTE handlers are available in nRF, but it seems only two channels are available for users.

Posted at 2024-11-29 by @enaon

but it seems only two channels are available for users.

I am not sure this is an nRF restriction, this is why I am posting, so that Gordon and Fanoush will correct me :)

In any case, please run this to verify how many watches are running when you get the mesage that no more watches are available. Maybe some app is using a watch etc.
global["\xFF"].watches

Posted at 2024-11-29 by JeonLab

>global["\xFF"].watches
=[
  undefined,
  { pin: D17, recur: true, debounce: 26214, edge: -1,
    cb: function () { ... },
    state: false }
 ]

I'm not sure what this command does, but D17 is the BTN1 for Bangle.js 2.

Posted at 2024-11-29 by @enaon

I'm not sure what this command does

It just lists the watches that are currently running. So you only have the BTN watch, and you can only enable two more, a total of three?

Posted at 2024-11-29 by JeonLab

After I tried to set pins with setWatch for the 3 pins, I ran your command again. Here is the result.

>global["\xFF"].watches
=[
  undefined,
  { pin: D32, recur: true, edge: -1,
    cb: function () { ... },
    state: false },
  { pin: D24, recur: true, edge: -1,
    cb: function () { ... },
    state: false },
  { pin: D22, recur: true, edge: -1,
    cb: function () { ... },
    state: true },
  { pin: D24, recur: true, edge: -1,
    cb: function () { ... },
    state: false }
 ]

Posted at 2024-11-29 by @enaon

After I tried to set pins with setWatch for the 3 pins

a bit strange, I guess you run the setwatch command two times for pin D24, but where is the D17, the BTN1?

Maybe try assigning the watch number to a variable, so that you can then clear them and do your test better, like so?
testD22=setWatch(function(e) { console.log("testD22"); }, D22, {
repeat:true, edge:'both' });

clearWatch(testD22)

Posted at 2024-11-29 by JeonLab

D17 is not listed because I ran the code in the RAM only setting 3 pins with setWatch. If I added the code to my clock app, D17 is also listed. Still no clue for the D24 appears again at the end of the list. It's nothing to do with the hardware, so you can try with your own watch, I guess.
I don't really care about more interrupt pins anymore because I can use my solution (#28) with diodes. I already tried this solution and it works fine as expected.

Posted at 2024-11-29 by @enaon

I don't really care about more interrupt pins anymore because I can use my solution (#28) with diodes. I already tried this solution and it works fine as expected.

nice, thanks for your time, I was just curious because on some older firmwares there was no limit on the number of watches I think. But yes, it is not important, thanks.

Posted at 2024-11-29 by JeonLab

I didn't mean to be rude. I just realized my previous reply might have sounded not very nice. My apologies. I'm also curious about the limits, but I just wanted to say I found a solution and I was fine without more interrupts. Thank you.

Posted at 2024-11-29 by @enaon

I didn't mean to be rude

you were not, I was a bit, it was clear that you had it solved, yet I was returning to the watches limit thing. Sorry, all is ok :)

Posted at 2024-12-18 by JeonLab

I have finally designed the new case for my modification and 3D printed and assembled the watch. It has a piezo buzzer, the same motor (moved to the right side wall), USB type C charging port, 350mAh battery and 4 additional switches. attached is a picture of the assembled modified watch. I will show some more pictures later.

As I explained before, the HRM module was removed and 3 pins (D32, D24, D22) from the header was used to get 4 switch inputs.

Everything works as I expected, but the accelerometer stopped working. I have checked the components (the accelerometer chip and caps and resistors around the chip) visually (with a magnifying glass) but couldn't find anything wrong.

I wonder if the power for the accelerometer chip is through the HRM header. Is there anything I can check? Below is the reading of the accelerometer.

Bangle.getAccel()
={ x: 0.00012207031, y: -0.00012207031, z: 0.00012207031, mag: 0.00021143198,
  diff: 0 }

These values don't change when I move the watch. So the question is whether removing the HRM module can affect to the accelerometer. Any thoughts?

Attachments:

Posted at 2024-12-19 by @gfwilliams

Wow, that's very impressive!

The accelerometer is on the PCB and it has its own I2C lines, so I wouldn't have thought that anything you do with the HRM would affect it. You could check with Bangle.accelRd and see if you can communicate with it at all? It's possible that you got a solder splash or something on a wire which shorted one of the data connections to it out?

Posted at 2024-12-19 by JeonLab

Hi Gordon,
Bangle.accelRd() returns 255. Does this mean it's communicating or not?
Thanks.

Posted at 2024-12-19 by @gfwilliams

Well, if you try reading a bunch of registers with it (Bangle.accelRd(1)/2/etc) and they all ready 255 then it's not communicating. 255 is the default state (with the data pin stuck high)

Posted at 2024-12-19 by @fanoush

It needs some parameters https://www.espruino.com/Reference#l_Bangle_accelRd

Bangle.accelRd(0x0f,1)
=new Uint8Array([20])
>

this reads WHOAMI register at 0x0f address and value 20=0x14 is KX022 (as per https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/348/KX022_1020_Specifications_Rev_12_0-1101230.pdf#page=36 )

Posted at 2024-12-19 by JeonLab

@gfwilliams and @fanoush, thank you for your responses and suggestions. I tried your suggested tests and all returned 255.
I searched and found this link that shows exactly same readings from Bangle.getAccel() or Bangle.accelRd(0x0F).
I have checked the PCB closely and couldn't find any solder that might short any connections. My guess is when I replaced the battery, somehow the accelerometer got messed up internally. The link above says it was fixed after draining the battery, so I would try that.
Thank you.

Posted at 2024-12-20 by JeonLab

I flattened the battery and waited for about an hour and tried to turn on and it did. So, I waited overnight to make sure the battery's fully discharged (it may not be fully discharged, but just below the voltage threshold of the FET) so that the accelerometer is not powered (hopefully).
This morning, I started charging the watch and after a few minutes, I tried the code Bangle.accelRd(0x0F) and hoped to get 21 as a return value, but it still returned 255. Too bad. :-(
I'm thinking to discharge it again and leave it for longer period of time, say a couple of days over the weekend.

Posted at 2024-12-20 by @enaon

I'm thinking to discharge it again and leave it for longer period of time, say a couple of days over the weekend.

since you have made a new case, don't you have access to the battery terminals? You can short them for half a second, the BMS on the battery will turn off, and turn on again once you plug in the charger.

Posted at 2024-12-20 by JeonLab

@enaon, that’s good idea! I will try. Thanks.

Posted at 2024-12-20 by @fanoush

do not take "for a second" literally, whole second is far too much, just a brief moment - the fastest you can make it, or you may damage the battery

Posted at 2024-12-20 by @enaon

yes sorry, not a full second, just a touch will do.

Posted at 2024-12-20 by JeonLab

@fanoush and @enaon, ha ha ha, I know. I will be careful. 😀
Thanks!

Posted at 2024-12-20 by JeonLab

Nope! It didn't work. I guess I messed up something on the PCB somehow. Strange, I don't see anything wrong. hmmmm

Posted at 2024-12-21 by JeonLab

Well, I disconnected the battery and reconnected, but it didn't solve the issue with the accelerometer. I think I have done all I could try. I don't want to damage other parts, so I will stop trying to figure it out. Although I'm going to miss the pedometer, but that's not a big deal.

My main reason to design the new case and adding so many (most people won't need it) buttons and buzzer and bigger battery was for my golfing (https://banglejs.com/apps/?id=golf-gps ). Currently it uses swipes for moving the holes and adding/subtracting scores while I'm playing, but if I touch (and slide) accidentally, the score or the hole changes unintentionally. That's why I wanted to have physical buttons (left/right and up/down) and bigger battery for continuous use of GPS. The buzzer is my preference over the vibration motor.

Although I lost the pedometer, I'm happy with the other modification. I have attached some pictures to show the internal arrangement of components in case someone's interested.

The motor is moved to the right side wall in a tightly fit hole. This motor vibrates radially, not axially, so it feels much stronger than original configuration (taped on the battery). The buzzer sounds loud enough. I have tested with a MOSFET and direct drive from the pin D43, but didn't see any difference, so just connected directly to the pin D43 for simplicity. As for the battery life, I tested yesterday with continuous GPS running after full charge and it lasted over 9 hours.

Attachments:

Posted at 2024-12-21 by @halemmerich

That's awesome! Turning the motor on its side and fixing it to the case directly to amplify the buzz is something I could imagine to do in my next version as well since it is well cushioned/dampened when on the battery.

Posted at 2024-12-28 by JeonLab

I opened my modified watch again to measure current for other reasons, and found the accelerometer was loose from the PCB. I gently touched it and was detached easily. During the modification, I haven’t touched that area with anything, especially the soldering iron.
Anyway, I’m trying to reattach it to see if I can get the accelerometer function again, but not successful yet.
But I noticed the number of pins on the package was different from the datasheet linked from the technical information page.
See attached screenshot of a part of the datasheet and a picture showing where the accelerometer used to be. In the datasheet, it’s 16 pins but the actual part has only 12 pins. Could anyone tell me what’s the actual part number? I want to see correct datasheet.

Attachments:

Posted at 2025-01-06 by @gfwilliams

That's a good point! I'm afraid I don't know what the exact part number is.

Looking at the PCB image you posted though, if you need to re-attach in the correct orientation the dot on the accelerometer case should be in the bottom left corner

Posted at 2025-01-06 by JeonLab

In the same Technical information page, the I2C device list says it's Kionix KX022. I looked it up and found that was the correct part with 12 pins.
@gfwilliams, thank you for the tip of the orientation of the package. Since it's LGA package that all the pins are under the package and not exposed to the side, without take the PCB on a hot plate, it's almost impossible to re-attach it with only a solering iron. I tried with low temperature solering paste and heating the entire package with a large blob of solder, but couldn't solder it back properly. Unfortunately, one side of the package was damaged and I gave up. :-)

Posted at 2025-01-07 by @gfwilliams

Argh, sorry to hear about your accelerometer. Thanks for the update though - I'll change the docs - I think KX023 was mentioned because that's what the Bangle.js 1 had and I forgot to update the file when moving over.

I can definitely recommend getting a heat gun - the chinese ones are pretty cheap and mine's been super helpful for this kind of thing.

We actually have some Bangles here that you might be interested in? for instance some where the SWD pins never worked so we couldn't program them. Most likely it's just an assembly fault and the board is OK, and as you're taking them to bits anyway it might be fine.

Posted at 2025-01-07 by JeonLab

@gfwilliams, I found those parts on Aliexpress and ordered a couple of them already. Thank you for your offer though. Also I'm thinking to buy a hot air gun as well.
Thanks.

Posted at 2025-01-07 by @fanoush

I'm thinking to buy a hot air gun as well

there are very cheap ones that don't even have temperature control nor air flow control, then the next level is something like this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000525251154.html
I have it, it works, I used it few times without issues. It has three types of nozzles and turns automatically off when you put it into holder/stand and has both temperature and air flow control. It may not be professional for daily use, but for hobbyist it may be enough (=not sure about longevity of the heater element if used frequently). I got it 2 years ago for US $23.38 (with some aliexpress discount code).
EDIT: I see now it is cheaper from other sellers, e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002350207714.html

Posted at 2025-01-07 by JeonLab

@fanoush, thank you very much for the information of the hot air gun with links. It looks good for my purposes.

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