{"id":"001","text":"THE NATIONALBESTSELLER\r\nA complete\r\nwardrobe system\r\nthat uses color to\r\nbring out the best in you!\r\nColor\r\nMen\r\nDiscover which shades ofcolorin clothes\r\ncomplementyournaturalcoloring tolook\r\nealthier, sexier, aminuncpowe\r\n(0) Ballantine/34546/$10.95 in USA • $14.95 in Canada\r\nAuthor of COLORMEBEAUTIFUL\r\nCarole Jackson\r\nwith Kalia Lulow\r\n\r\nColor\r\n(or\r\nV\r\nDigitized by the Internet Archive\r\nin 2014\r\nhttps://archive.org/details/colorformenOOcaro\r\nCarole Jackson\r\nwith Kalia Lulovv\r\nIllustrations by Yuki Horikawa\r\nPhotographs by Ben Rosenthal and Jacques SiJberstein\r\nBallantine Books • New York\r\n«\r\nCopyright © 1984 by Color Me Beautiful, Inc. Color For Men is a registered trademark of Color Me Beautiful, Inc. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in the United States by Ballantine Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto.\r\nLibrary of Congress Catalog Card Number: 86-91644\r\nISBN: 0-345-34546-0\r\nText designed by Michaelis & Carpelis Design Associates, Inc. Cover designed by James R. Harris Manufactured in the United States of America\r\nFirst Ballantine Books Trade Edition: June 1987\r\n10 98765432\r\nCONTENTS\r\nPART I: Your Colors\r\n1. Color for Men: What's in It for You? 11\r\n2. Right/Wrong 14\r\n3. The Seasonal Palettes: The Color Charts 21\r\n4. Determining Your Season: The Color Test 43\r\n5. Understanding Your Colors 58\r\nPART II: Your Clothes, Your Style\r\n6. Building a Wardrobe: Content, Color, Lifestyle 89\r\n7. Your Body Proportions 105\r\n8. Your Suit: Size, Cut, Fit, and Quality 120\r\n9. Your Shirt 136\r\n10. Your Tie 149\r\n11. Combining Coat, Shirt, and Tie 163\r\n12. Your Clothing Personality 174\r\n13. Shopping 199\r\n14. The Finishing Touches: Hair, Glasses, and Grooming 204\r\nEpilogue: The Total Man 219\r\nSeason-by-Season Tear-Out Shopping Guides 221\r\nFabric Glossary 229\r\nIndex . 231\r\ns book is dedicated to\r\nAlec and Megan Bartsch, my children, whom I love, admire, and respect.\r\nJean Halliburton, my mother, who loves, admires, and respects me. I love\r\nyou, too.\r\nSteve DiAntonio, president of Color Me Beautiful, whose warmth and\r\nacumen have made our company grow by leaps and bounds, and who\r\nmade Color for Men possible.\r\nAcknowledgments\r\nColor for Men is truly a reflection of combined energy, talent, and enthusiasm.\r\nTo the following people who contributed so much I give special thanks:\r\nJoelle Delbourgo, Editor-in-Chief of Ballantine Trade Books, who is not only a genius but a saint. Steve DiAntonio, for his logic, his love, and his tireless support.\r\nJean Halliburton, for her literary skills (some of which rubbed off), and her broad\r\nshoulder.\r\nKalia Lulow, my co-writer, who endured spider bites in my basement guest\r\nroom—for her talent and her fortitude! Nellie Sabin and Nancy Inglis, our editors,\r\nfor pulling it together so beautifully.\r\nAndrea and Alan Lentz, for writing the chapters on suits and body proportions;\r\nand Andrea again for her incredibly efficient handling of details. Ken Karpinski,\r\nfor his knowledge of the men's clothing industry and his invaluable input. Louis\r\nO'Connor of Bloomingdale's for letting me pick his brain for two years. Dennis\r\nLucier, for his expertise and advice on men's hair design.\r\nLiz Singley and Sandi Wheeler for typing (and typing) —and late night laughter.\r\nWinnie Adams, for her perfectionism and proofreading.\r\nMarie Kelley, Alexander White, and Mary Harz, for masterminding the photog\u0002raphy shootings; Jacques Silberstein and Ben Rosenthal for taking these wonderful\r\npictures; and Yuki Horikawa for his fine illustrations. Sylvain Michaelis, for his\r\nmarvelous book design; Fred Dodnick, who worries about getting the colors right;\r\nand Jimmy Harris, who designed the wonderful cover.\r\nCarol Brandewie, Tina Dyer, Errol Glidden, Norma Rios, Maria Caballeros, and\r\nSuzanne and Bill Doswell, who kept the rest of my life running smoothly while\r\nI wrote.\r\nThe wonderful staff at our headquarters and the Color Place, and the Color Me\r\nBeautiful/ Color for Men consultants who eagerly participated, especially David\r\nKibbe, Roger Raley, Doris Pooser, Lou Marohn, JoAnne and Harry Robinson,\r\nRubye Erickson, Nancy Matlin, Louise Wiltshire, Camille Oordt, Barbara Watkins,\r\nCarolyn Thurman, Earlene Herman, and Donni Betts.\r\n\r\nPART\r\nYOUR\r\nCOLORS\r\n\r\n1\r\nJL\r\nCHAPTER\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN:\r\nWHAT'S IN IT FOR\r\nYOU?\r\nDo you look your best all the time?\r\nDo you project authority and confidence in a business suit?\r\nCan you combine your coat, shirt, and tie with complete confi\u0002dence?\r\nDo you have sex appeal?\r\nDo you have the \"right\" thing to wear for any occasion all year\r\nround?\r\nDo you have a well-coordinated wardrobe—or a closet full of un- matched clothes?\r\nDo you hate shopping?\r\nDo you let your girlfriend or wife buy all your clothes?\r\nDo you shy away from peach, pink, or turquoise?\r\nDo you know what colors look best on you?\r\nIf even one of your answers does not please you, this book is for you. Color for\r\nMen is about color, image, and you. It's about using color to enhance your looks\r\n12/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nand your life. Yes, color is the secret to a good image. And what man doesn't\r\nwant to look his best?\r\nColor for Men is a scientific system, a way of dressing in colors that bring out\r\nthe best in you. Why scientific? Your genes have determined the color of your\r\nskin, your hair, and your eyes. Only certain colors complement your natural col\u0002oring. When you wear the right colors, you come alive. Dressed in colors that\r\nwork against what nature has given you, you fade away. I have seen a man change\r\nfrom a frog to a prince simply by changing his shirt!\r\nThe key is knowing which colors work best on you. The Color for Men system\r\nwill help you discover your personal colors. You'll know exactly what clothes to buy—and what not to buy. It will simplify shopping and help you coordinate\r\nyour wardrobe with ease. The beauty of the system is that all of your colors\r\nharmonize so you can mix and match easily. Best of all, dressed in the right colors,\r\nyou'll look and feel terrific. At work, you'll convey power and elicit respect\r\n—\r\nand you'll feel sexier after hours.\r\nCoJor for Men is based on the same system that inspired my book for women,\r\nColor Me Beautiful. To date, Color Me Beautiful has sold over 3 million copies\r\nand has been on the New York Times bestseller list for over three years. Obviously\r\nthe system works!\r\nColor Me Beautiful, Inc. is now a multi-million-dollar business. Our company\r\nhas over 200 color and image consultants (male and female) worldwide. Our motto\r\nis excellence, our philosophy is service. In 1983, we launched the Color for Men\r\ndivision. In our men's consultations, we determine our client's colors and show\r\nhim how to put color power to work for him.\r\nWe use the seasons as a way of describing your coloring and the colors that\r\nlook best on you. Nature has done an outstanding job of arranging colors har\u0002moniously, so we borrow from her to create a harmonious wardrobe for you. You\r\nare either a Winter, Summer, Autumn, or Spring.\r\nThe Winter man looks most striking in cool colors with sharp contrast, like the\r\nwinter evening's dark sky and the pure white snow. The Summer man's coloring\r\nis most complemented by the cool, dusty colors of summertime—the blue-green\r\nsea, hazy white clouds, and grayed blue of the summer sky. Autumn is the man\r\nwho looks best in rich, warm colors and muted earth tones, like the autumn leaves\r\nor a golden sunset. The Spring man's coloring is brought to life in the clear, fresh\r\ncolors that come out in spring—the clear blues and ivories of mountain flowers\r\nand the bright green of fresh buds on the trees.\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN/13\r\nNow we are happy to share the power of color with you. This book will take\r\nyou through the Color for Men system. First you'll identify your season. Then\r\nwe'll provide you with a palette of colors that work together automatically. You'll\r\nlearn how to assemble a well-coordinated wardrobe with something to wear for\r\nevery occasion. The Color for Men system shows you how to combine a shirt, tie,\r\nand suit, how to choose accessories, even which hairstyle is most flattering to your face. You'll also find a tear-out section at the end of this book containing a summary of shopping tips for each season. Color for Men is a total system. It's easy to use and it works! When you put it to work for you, you'll look great —and you'll feel great, too!\r\n2\r\nCHAPTER\r\n»\r\nV RIGHT/WRONG\r\nDateline: Monday morning, 8:00 a.m. Frank reaches into his closet\r\nto get dressed for an important meeting. He pulls out a gray pinstriped suit, a white shirt, and a burgundy tie. He dresses carefully, confident that his clothing\r\nprojects the image he wants.\r\nIt's time to hit the streets. But alas, in the morning light, Frank looks as if he\r\ndied on his way to the office.\r\nFrank is an Autumn, and Autumns look distinctly awful in most grays. He\r\ncannot and should not try to wear that version of the standard business uniform.\r\nNo matter what season you are, there are some colors that work for you, and some\r\nthat don't.\r\nWearing the right color enhances your face. You look younger, healthier, hand\u0002somer, more vital, and more confident. Facial lines and shadows are smoothed\r\naway, your skin glows, your eyes sparkle. You project a positive image to both\r\nmen and women.\r\nThe wrong color detracts from your face. It can make you look tired, sallow\r\n(yellow) or drain the natural color from your face. Dark circles, lines, and blem\u0002ishes stand out. Wearing the wrong color may make your clothes overpower your\r\nface. People will focus on your clothes instead of you. Your capability and your\r\nauthority are undermined because you do not project a harmonious image. In\r\nsocial and romantic settings, you may be turning yourself from a prince into a\r\nfrog.\r\nDon't panic. The good news is that actually you can wear almost any color in\r\nthe rainbow; the tone, shade, and intensity are what make the difference. Knowing\r\nwhat colors look great on you lets you make subtle adjustments in your wardrobe\r\nthat have enormous impact on how the world sees you—and on how you feel\r\nabout yourself.\r\nYou can see from the photographs what a difference color makes. Your face\r\nhas color (skin tone) and your clothes have color. They react to each other just\r\nlike colors on a color wheel. Two colors placed together can bring out the best\r\nin each other—or the worst.\r\nIn a consultation, we show each man how he looks in each of his colors by\r\nholding a piece of fabric under his face as if it were a shirt. Some men never\r\nbefore realized how good-looking they are!\r\nYou are probably intuitive about your best colors. Look in your own closet.\r\nIsn't there a particular shirt you end up wearing every weekend, or a suit you\r\nfeel especially great in (even if it is old)? And then there's that nearly new item\r\nof clothing that you never wear. Why? Most likely it's the color. It looked fine on\r\nthe rack in the store, but it just doesn't work on you.\r\nMen often have their intuitive color sense about what looks good on them stifled\r\nby their wives, their mothers, or salesmen, who instinctively try to dress you in\r\ntheir colors. Everyone favors his own best colors. If you rely on other people who\r\ndon't know your colors to do your shopping, you'll end up with a wardrobe that\r\nis out of step with your natural color sense and clashes with your natural good\r\nlooks.\r\nMost of the popular corporate-image surveys were conducted in the East,\r\nwhere—particularly in New York—Winters predominate. While Winters and\r\nSummers do look their best in the usual business colors, Autumns and Springs,\r\nwho are flattered by warm, golden colors, must find shades of navy and gray that\r\nboth project a corporate image and work with their coloring. It's hard to look\r\ncompetent with a drawn, tired-looking face, yet many men undermine their image\r\nby adopting the \"success\" look without regard for what works for them individ\u0002ually. All men have the freedom to find their own power colors in their own best\r\nshades and combinations. On some, for example, brown looks best!\r\nFrank (the man mentioned at the beginning of the chapter) was an executive\r\nwho came to us for a consultation. He was wearing his dark gray pinstriped suit,\r\nwhite shirt, and burgundy tie. The clothes looked great, but Frank, an Autumn,\r\nlooked terrible. We showed him how to find his version of \"gray\" and how an Autumn uses the right shirt and tie to pull off a navy suit. (Navy is not an Autumn's\r\nbest color.) We changed his tie from burgundy to a shade of red that flattered\r\n16/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nhim. Result: Frank had an image that was entirely appropriate for his job, but\r\nwith added personal credibility.\r\nDavid, an overweight middle-aged man, began to feel that life was passing him\r\nby. His wife started to tease him about his \"mid-life crisis\" —until she noticed\r\nhe wasn't laughing. To give his self-image a boost, she coaxed him into having\r\nhis colors done. Skeptical at first, David learned that he is a Spring. A modest\r\nsort, he wanted to keep wearing \"safe\" colors, but in his case, he needed to get\r\naway from white and dark blue and experiment instead with some more inter\u0002esting, and more flattering, shades. David bought a new camel-colored jacket and\r\nwore it out to dinner. The response was immediate and dramatic. Had he changed\r\nhis glasses? Cut his hair? Lost weight? Not yet. But soon, with the confidence he\r\ngained from learning his best colors, David found the impetus to do all three.\r\nThe effectiveness of personal colors applies to any man, whether he's a doctor,\r\na plumber, an executive, a retired grandpa or a teenager. Test it yourself! The\r\nresults are immediate. Buy a couple of polo shirts or T-shirts in colors that bring\r\nout your best, and watch the positive response you get from those around you.\r\nTry a new tie and shirt in your colors and give your working image a boost. It's important that you get feedback from others, since you'll find it difficult to be\r\nobjective about your own appearance.\r\nOnce you know your colors, you will have the power to look good consistently,\r\nand to believe in yourself all the time. You really can color your way to the top.\r\nJacques is a Winter with olive skin, brown eyes, and dark brown hair. He looks best in crisp, cool\r\ncolors. The camel jacket looks dull on him and gives his skin a yellow cast. Jacques' face comes\r\nalive when he wears a navy jacket, white and blue shirt, and navy tie.\r\nright/spring wrong/spring\r\nBob, a Spring, looks great in the camel jacket, ivory shirt, and tan tie. It complements his pink\u0002peach skin, blue eyes, and light reddish brown hair. The dark navy jacket drains the color from\r\nBob's face. He would look great in a brighter navy such as the one worn by Rick on p. 38.\r\n18/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nwrong/summer right/summer\r\nright/winter\r\nTerry, a Summer, has pink-beige skin, soft blue eyes, and dark ash blond hair. The bright\r\npolo shirt is too strong for his coloring. Notice\r\nhow your eye is drawn to Terry's shirt before you see his face. Terry looks great in his medium blue shirt which is more harmonious\r\nwith his Summer coloring. Even his eyes look\r\nbrighter and bluer in his correct shade of blue.\r\nWinter Jacques, whose skin, hair, and eyes are more intense, really comes to life in his royal\r\nblue polo. Compare Jacques and Terry in royal\r\nblue. Jacques wears the shirt; the shirt wears\r\nTerry! Jacques would look washed out in the medium blue shirt that so flatters Summer\r\nTerry.\r\nRIGHT/WRONG/19\r\nwrong/autumn right/autumn\r\nArthur is an Autumn with dark red-brown hair, hazel eyes and light peach skin. Although he does\r\nnot look bad in Summer's blue-gray suit, he looks better in Autumn's chocolate brown suit and\r\noyster shirt. The gray suit looks insipid on him, while the brown one brings color to his face.\r\nright/summer wrong/summer\r\nSummer Terry is wearing the identical blue-gray suit on the left. This is his best \"power\" suit. Winter's charcoal gray suit and pure white shirt overpower Terry's Summer coloring so that he\r\nlooks drawn and tired.\r\n20/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nwrong/spring right/spring\r\nwrong/autumn right/autumn\r\nThe burgundy shirt worn by Bob and Arthur in the left-hand pictures is wrong for both of them,\r\nbut for different reasons. Bob's Spring coloring is overwhelmed by the dark color; its blue undertone is harsh on him. He looks younger, healthier, more handsome in Spring's orange\u0002red. Arthur looks fine in the intensity of the dark burgundy color, but the blue undertone clashes with his peach skin, making him look pale and accentuating the lines under his eyes. His warm\r\nAutumn red on the right smooths his face and enhances his natural good looks!\r\nCHAPTER\r\n3\r\nTHE SEASONAL\r\nPALETTES: THE\r\nCOLOR CHARTS\r\nIn order to determine your own colors, look at the color charts in\r\nthis chapter. The four seasonal charts are the building blocks of the Color for Men\r\nsystem. After you understand how the colors work and study the pictures of the\r\nmen in each season, you can move on to the next chapter to personally test yourself\r\nand decide which palette is right for you.\r\nUNDERSTANDING THE FOUR SEASONS\r\nThe Color for Men system uses the seasons to describe your coloring and the color\r\npalette that flatters you. Each season conjures an image of colors that everyone\r\nunderstands, and just as in nature, the colors within each seasonal palette har\u0002monize perfectly. The four charts are not designed for use during the appropriate season of the year; instead, you belong to one season all year round. By using\r\nyour season's chart as a guide, you'll be able to match your own coloring to the\r\ncolors that are best for you, as well as put together a well-coordinated wardrobe\r\nin which your clothes go together effortlessly.\r\nThe Winter man looks best in vivid colors, dark colors, or very light, icy\r\nshades—say, a navy suit with a pure white shirt and red tie. The Summer man\r\n22/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nwears pastels and muted dark colors best; a blue shirt and blue suit are his favorite.\r\nAutumn is most harmonious in rich, deep earth colors, browns and russets, or muted gold-based shades from medium to dark. And Spring is the man most\r\nflattered by warm, golden colors, clear rather than dusty, light to medium rather\r\nthan dark. A Spring man loves his camel jacket.\r\nCOMPARING THE COLORS\r\nWinter and Summer are the cool (blue-based) palettes. The Winter chart has either\r\nblue-based colors or true colors (those with a balance of yellow and blue, black\r\nand white). The Summer colors have blue, rose, or gray undertones. Autumn and\r\nSpring are the warm (yellow-based) palettes. The Autumn palette is based on\r\ngolden tones, and Spring's colors have clear yellow undertones.\r\nThe comparison table at the beginning of the charts shows some of the basic\r\ndifferences among the four seasonal palettes. First look at the different shades\r\nand tones. Notice how Winter's navy is clear and dark, Summer's navy is grayed,\r\nAutumn's is a marine navy, and Spring's is a bright, clear royal navy. Now look\r\nat the greens. Winter's is a true green, Summer's is a blue-green, Autumn's green\r\nis golden and earthy, and Spring's is a clear yellow-green. The reds for both Winter\r\nand Summer are blue-reds, because they are the cool (blue-based) seasons; the\r\nreds for the warm (yellow-based) Autumn and Spring are orange-reds.\r\nNow examine the comparison chart for color intensity. Even though Winter and\r\nSummer are both cool, the intensity of their colors differs considerably. Summer's\r\ncolors may be either clear or powdered (muted), while Winter's are all bold and\r\nintense. Compare Summer's light sky blue to Winter's deep royal blue. Autumn\r\nhas strong colors, either vivid or muted, but Spring has only clear colors. Spring's\r\npalette can be bright or light, but never muted or extremely dark. Look at the\r\ndifference between the browns and yellows of Autumn and Spring.\r\nNow look at the color charts. Notice that a few colors are missing from some\r\npalettes. Only the Winter man can wear both black and pure white, but Winter\r\nhas no brown or orange. Only Autumn has dark brown, but Autumn has no gray,\r\npink, or purple. Summer has no orange. Spring has a little bit of every color except\r\nblack and snow white. (text continues on p. 40)\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/23\r\nWINTER SUMMER AUTUMN SPRING\r\nCool Colors Cool Colors Warm Colors Warm Colors\r\nYou can wear almost any color; it's the tone, shade, and intensity that count.\r\nWinter's and Summer's colors are cool with blue undertones. Autumn's and\r\nSpring's colors have yellow undertones. One column is best for you.\r\n24/COLOR FOR MEN\r\n%\r\nWINTER BUSINESS/DRESS\r\nNeutral Colors: Light Colors:\r\nSuits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts\r\nNavy Charcoal Gray Pure White Icy Pink\r\nBlack Medium True Gray Icy Gray Icy Green\r\nTaupe (Gray Beige) Light True Gray Icy Blue Icy Violet\r\nIcy Yellow Icy Aqua\r\nTies: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;\r\nany color for sportswear.\r\nShoes and belts Black, Navy\r\n(dress]:\r\nShoes and belts Black, Navy, Cordovan (burgundy-toned), Gray. Add Taupe and White for warm\r\n(casual): weather.\r\nBriefcase and other Black, Cordovan (burgundy-toned)\r\nleather goods:\r\nShopping guide: Winters are best in clear colors and high contrast. A Winter strives to stay sharp\r\nand should never wear muted, powdered tones. When shopping, think true, blue,\r\nand vivid; sharp, clear, and icy.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/25\r\nWINTER SPORTSWEAR\r\nBasic Colors: Bright/Accent Colors:\r\nSport Coats, Sportswear\r\nSlacks, Outerwear\r\nTrue Blue Royal Purple True Red Lemon Yellow\r\nPine Green Fuchsia Emerald Green Chinese Blue\r\nBright Burgundy Magenta True Green Hot Turquoise\r\nBlue-Red Deep Hot Pink Light True Green Royal Blue\r\nShocking Pink\r\n26/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nWINTER MEN\r\nBen is a Winter with rose-beige skin, gray-green\r\neyes, and silver-gray hair. He grayed\r\nprematurely, as Winters often do.\r\nDean has black-brown hair and hazel eyes. Unlike most Winters, he has rosy cheeks.\r\nDanny has classic Winter coloring: dark brown\r\nhair, brown eyes and olive skin. He is especially flattered by the bright Winter colors.\r\nToshio's olive skin appears sallow if he wears\r\nthe wrong colors. In clear colors, he looks healthy and attractive.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/27\r\nWINTER MEN\r\nDale is a fair-skinned Winter, with bright blue Tim, unlike most Winters, has pink-beige skin, eyes and dark hair. He wears Winter's icy His eyes are a soft blue with brownish centers, colors and dark, cool colors especially well.\r\nNeil has light gray-beige skin, green eyes with Joe's dark hair, black-brown eyes and rose- white flecks in the iris and dark brown hair. He brown skin are flattered by the high contrast in wears all his Winter colors equally well. his pure white shirt and dark suit.\r\n28/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSUMMER BUSINESS/DRESS\r\nNeutral Colors: Light Colors:\r\nSuits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts\r\nGrayed Navy Rose-Brown Soft White Pale Lemon Yellow\r\nCharcoal Blue-Gray Cocoa Light Rose-Beige Powder Pink\r\nLight Blue-Gray Rose-Beige Powder Blue Light Mauve\r\nGrayed Blue Light Periwinkle Blue Lavender\r\nTies: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;\r\nany color for sportswear.\r\nShoes and belts Rose-Brown. Black, Cordovan\r\n(dress):\r\nShoes and belts Rose-Brown. Cordovan, Navy, Gray. Add Rose-Beige and Soft White for warm\r\n(casual): weather.\r\nBriefcase and other Rose-Brown. Cordovan\r\nleather goods:\r\nShopping guide: Summers wear soft Neutrals especially well and may wear both muted and clear\r\ncolors. When you shop, think of blue or rose undertones. Even though you may\r\nfavor your bright colors, you should strive for blends and subtle contrasts rather than extremely sharp contrasts. Your dark colors are always grayed.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/29\r\nSUMMER SPORTSWEAR\r\nBright/Accent Colors:\r\nSportswear\r\nLight Lemon Yellow Medium Blue-Green Orchid\r\nSky Blue Deep Blue-Green Mauve\r\nMedium Blue Watermelon Red Raspberry\r\nPastel Aqua Rose-Pink Plum\r\nPastel Blue-Green Deep Rose\r\n30/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSUMMER MEN\r\nSteve has a pink skin tone, clear blue eyes and Terry is a typical Summer, with pink-beige skin ash blond hair that turns slightly golden in the and blue eyes. White-blond in childhood, his summertime. hair is now a dark ash blond.\r\nSteve looks great in a powdered pink shirt Gordon's soft gray-blue eyes, pale pink skin and\r\nwhile Winter Tim (p. 27) looks best in icy pink. light hair are most complemented by the pastel\r\nshades of the Summer palette.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/31\r\nSUMMER MEN\r\nWith his ash brown hair, beige skin and hazel\r\neyes, John looks especially good in his browns,\r\nwhich have rose, rather than golden, tones.\r\nBilly is a vivid Summer with dark brown hair, clear green eyes and deep rose-beige skin. He\r\nlooks best in the brighter Summer colors.\r\nBill's prematurely gray hair has a pearly white\r\ntone, typical of a Summer. Compare his hair to Winter Ben's (p. 26) silver gray hair.\r\nMel's soft blue-gray hair, blue eyes and pink\r\nskin tone are complemented by his blue shirt, blue-gray suit and blue tie.\r\n32/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nAUTUMN BUSINESS/DRESS\r\nNeutral Colors:\r\nSuits, Coats, Pants\r\nLight Colors:\r\nBusiness/Dress Shirts\r\nOvster White Light Peach/Apricot\r\nDark Chocolate Brown Marine Navy Warm Beige Light Periwinkle Blue\r\nBuff (Light Gold) Light Grayed Green\r\nKhaki/Tan\r\nTies:\r\nShoes and belts\r\n(dress):\r\nShoes and belts\r\n(casual):\r\nBriefcase and other\r\nleather goods:\r\nShopping guide:\r\nGrayed Green\r\nColors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;\r\nany color for sportswear. Reds are acceptable for business as well as social wear.\r\nBrown, Dark Cordovan (brownish), Black (optional —to wear with Navy)\r\nBrown, Cordovan (brownish), Tan. Add Beige and Oyster for warm weather.\r\nAll shades of Brown, Tan, Beige\r\nAutumns can wear either muted or clear colors. You may use most of these\r\ncolors as a general guide, but stick closely to the chart when shopping for your\r\nblues. Always think of golden undertones.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/33\r\nAUTUMN SPORTSWEAR\r\nBasic Colors: Bright/Accent Colors:\r\nSport coats, Sportswear\r\nSlacks, Outerwear\r\nForest Green Yellow-Gold Orange Lime Green\r\nMedium Warm Bronze Mustard Orange-Red Moss Green\r\nRust Pumpkin Bittersweet Red Bright Yellow-Green\r\nMahogany Terra-Cotta Dark Tomato Red Turquoise\r\nTeal Blue Salmon\r\n34/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nAUTUMN MEN\r\nAutumn John has olive-green eyes and yellow\u0002beige skin. The warm Autumn colors complement his coloring.\r\nJay has teal-blue eyes, golden brown hair and\r\npeach-beige skin—a true Autumn.\r\nA light Autumn with strawberry blond hair,\r\ngreen eyes and peach skin, Stephen looks better\r\nin the muted colors of the Autumn palette.\r\nAddison has charcoal black hair, dark brown\r\neyes and light golden brown skin.\r\nAUTUMN MEN\r\nArthur has dark brown hair, hazel eyes, and\r\nlight peach skin.\r\nJ. R. is a typical red-headed Autumn with olive- green eyes and a ruddy complexion.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/35\r\nDale is an Autumn with blue-green eyes, peach\u0002beige skin and brown hair with golden high\u0002lights, who wears the rich Autumn colors well.\r\nRichard is a vivid Autumn: dark auburn hair,\r\ndark golden brown eyes, lightly-freckled golden\r\nbeige skin. He looks best in high contrast colors.\r\n36/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSPRING BUSINESS/DRESS\r\nNeutral Colors: Light Colors:\r\nSuits, Coats, Pants Business/Dress Shirts\r\nLight Warm Beige Camel\r\nTies: Colors from any category. Choose from Neutrals or Basics for a conservative look;\r\nany color for sportswear. Red is acceptable for business as well as social wear. Shoes and belts Brown, Dark Cordovan (brownish), Black (optional —to wear with navy)\r\n(dress):\r\nShoes and belts Brown, Cordovan (brownish), Tan, Navy. Add Beige and Ivory for warm weather,\r\n(casual):\r\nBriefcase and other Brown, Tan, Navy, Beige\r\nleather goods:\r\nShopping guide: Springs need colors that are \"alive.\" When you shop think clear, warm (yellow),\r\nand snappy. Your colors are the hardest to find because they must be clear\r\n—\r\nnever muted—and not too dark.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/37\r\nSPRING SPORTSWEAR\r\nBright/Accent Colors:\r\nSportswear\r\nPastel Yellow-Green Periwinkle Blue Bright Warm Pink\r\nBright Yellow-Green Dark Periwinkle Blue Coral Pink\r\nLight Warm Aqua Medium Violet Bright Cora\r\nClear Bright Aqua Bright Golden Yellow Light Orange\r\nEmerald Turquoise Peach/Apricot Orange-Red\r\nLight True Blue Clear Salmon Clear Bright Red\r\n38/COLOR FOR MEN\r\n»\r\nSPRING MEN\r\nJoey has golden blond hair, clear blue eyes, and Rick has dark honey blond hair, golden beige\r\npeach beige skin. skin, and dark blue eyes.\r\nTim has auburn hair, bright teal-blue eyes, and Lowell is a vivid Spring with golden brown\r\na ruddy pink-peach skin tone. He looks great in hair, blue eyes, and peach-beige skin,\r\nall of the clear, warm colors of Spring.\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/39\r\nSPRING MEN\r\nJohn is a light Spring with strawberry blond\r\nhair, turquoise eyes, and light peach skin. He\r\nlooks great in the lighter Spring colors.\r\nA typical Spring with fair peach skin and rosy cheeks, light reddish brown hair and blue eyes, Bob wears the pastel colors especially well.\r\nCal's hair is red laced with warm, yellow-toned\r\ngray and his eyes are green. His light peach\r\nskin is slightly ruddy.\r\nJoe's gray hair has a warm, golden cast. He has\r\npale blue eyes and ruddy peach-beige skin.\r\n40/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nANALYZING YOUR COLORING\r\nYour skin tone, like your palette, is either cool (blue-based) or warm (yellow\u0002based). You can wear almost every color; it's the tone, shade, and intensity of the\r\ncolor that make the difference. A yellow-green, for example, reflects differently\r\non your face than a blue-green does. A powder blue has a different effect than a bright blue.\r\nStudying the coloring of the men in the pictures will help you understand why\r\none seasonal chart works best for one individual while another chart works best\r\nfor someone else. For example, look at the difference between the Winter and\r\nSummer men. Winter coloring is stronger, with more contrast between hair, skin,\r\nand eyes. The Summer man has softer, less intense coloring. Even though both\r\nare from the cool seasons, a Winter man looks washed out in a pastel sky blue\r\nshirt, and a Summer's face is overpowered in bright, royal blue. In general, notice\r\nhow much darker the Autumn men's hair and eyes are, compared to the lighter\r\ncoloring of the Springs. Even a light Autumn requires deep, muted colors to en- hance his earthy coloring. Bright Spring colors would look brassy on him. Spring,\r\non the other hand, has a clear, lively quality to his skin and eyes, and looks drab\r\nin dark or muted colors.\r\nUNDERSTANDING THE CHARTS\r\nEach color chart is arranged to fit a man's wardrobe. Once you know your season,\r\nyou can use your chart not only as a guide for buying clothes but also for choosing\r\naccessories, decorating your office, and even buying your next car! Notice how\r\nthe charts are divided into Neutral Colors, Basic Colors, Light Colors, and Bright/\r\nAccent Colors to help you organize your wardrobe and your shopping.\r\nNEUTRALS are colors that go with everything. They form the foundation of your\r\nwardrobe. Select overcoats, suits, jackets, and pants from this group.\r\nLIGHTS are for business and dress shirts. Shirt colors are important, since they\r\nare worn next to the face. Lights can also be worn in sweaters or warm-weather\r\nslacks and suits. Your shirt may be worn as a solid or with stripes or checks from\r\nany of your color groups. Here are some possible combinations for the various\r\nseasons:\r\nTHE SEASONAL PALETTES/41\r\nWinter: White shirt with Bright Burgundy stripe\r\nSummer: Soft White shirt with Blue stripe\r\nAutumn: Oyster White shirt with Rust stripe\r\nSpring: Ivory shirt with Blue stripe\r\nBASIC COLORS are a little more colorful than Neutrals, but are still versatile\r\nenough to go with many of your other colors, and they add diversity to your\r\nwardrobe. Select sport coats from this group (also from Neutrals) as well as sweat\u0002ers, casual outerwear, and slacks. These colors are often found woven into suit\r\nfabrics. Your favorite ties will probably come from this category.\r\nBRIGHT/ACCENT COLORS are your chance to add a new dimension to your\r\nwardrobe in sportswear, casual ciothes, and ties. Casual clothes and sportswear\r\nmay be worn in Brights, either as solids or in stripes or other prints, according\r\nto your personality.\r\nAlthough these categories suggest appropriate clothing from each section of the\r\ncolor chart, the divisions are flexible. For example, neutral colors, while most\r\nsuitable for dress or business, may also be worn in sportswear. And ties may come\r\nfrom any category, depending upon your needs and personality.\r\nThe seasonal charts are designed to give you a complete range of colors, with\r\nsomething appropriate for every time of year and for every occasion. Some of your\r\ncolors are suitable for wintertime, some for summertime. Your chart contains\r\nbusiness colors, dress colors, sport colors, subdued colors and bright colors.\r\nTHE COLOR FOR MEN SYSTEM\r\nNow that you've seen the color charts and the photographs, you may still feel\r\nyou can successfully wear colors from all four seasons. Certainly you can find a few colors from each that might look good on you. Some colors are relatively\r\nflattering to everyone. But for two reasons you should not wear colors from a palette that is not yours. First, your season's colors are designed to be your best.\r\nWhy look only good when you can look great? Second, the colors within each\r\nchart are compatible and are arranged to give you a coordinated wardrobe. When\r\nyou follow your chart's guidelines, all your sport shirts will go with all your pants.\r\nYour ties will go easily with many of your suits and shirts. If you throw in an\r\noddball color, you throw off the whole system.\r\n42/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nTo see how the system works, pick out a suit color from one of the charts. Now\r\nimagine each shirt on that chart with the suit. Almost every single light color\r\nworks. Now choose another suit color and do the same. Do you see the versatility?\r\nEach suit can be worn with at least five shirt colors plus all sorts of shirts that\r\ninclude stripes, checks, or subtle prints. By adding five or six ties, you can have\r\ninfinite variety (up to twenty different combinations) from just one suit, especially\r\nif it is a solid.\r\nAs you build your wardrobe using your own color chart, you will rapidly ex- perience the true benefits of mix-and-match colors. You'll need fewer clothes, yet\r\nyou'll have more to wear than ever before. You needn't be frustrated trying to get\r\ndressed in the morning, nor will you need to hang shirt and tie on the same hanger\r\nto remember what goes with what. Because your colors go with each other, your\r\nclothes will coordinate all by themselves.\r\nPerhaps you are afraid you'll have to give up a color you really like. Don't!\r\nKeep it in your environment. Just don't wear it. If you're unhappy about having\r\nto part with a particular item of clothing, consider this: did you ever really get a compliment in that jacket? Or did the jacket get the praise? A true compliment\r\nis about you, not your clothes, and I promise you that as you wear your new colors\r\nand the compliments flow, you'll gladly part with a color or two. Eventually you'll\r\ndiscover that you don't even like that old color as much as you thought you did;\r\nyou were probably led astray by fashion or by someone else's taste. Perhaps you feel limited by the thought of wearing only one set of colors. In\r\nreality, however, you will have more options than you've ever had before. Most\r\nmen are bored by conventional dress codes. Although you may make only subtle\r\nchanges in your business attire, your sports and leisure clothes will now offer\r\nyou a wider range of new colors. No need to be afraid of trying them—you know\r\nyou'll look great!\r\nThe biggest bonus in finding your colors is the freedom it brings. Using your\r\nchart, you'll spend less time and energy shopping, yet you'll have more confidence\r\nthan ever before in what you buy and how you look. You'll know what to look\r\nfor and what to leave on the racks. You'll have a wardrobe of clothes you really\r\nlike, with something appropriate for any occasion. Your colors will simplify your\r\nlife, leaving your valuable time free for other pursuits.\r\nNow go on to the exciting part —finding your colors!\r\nCHAPTER\r\n4\r\nDETERMINING YOUR\r\nSEASON: THE COLOR\r\nTEST\r\nTo find your season, you'll need to take a three-step test:\r\n1. Assess your color history.\r\n2. Evaluate your skin tone, hair color, and eye color.\r\n3. Test yourself in colors (optional).\r\nYou can take this test by yourself, or you can ask others to help you. It's hard for us to be objective about ourselves, and other opinions can be helpful.\r\nIf you're not a do-it-yourselfer, you may want to skip this chapter entirely and\r\ngo to a consultant for a personal color analysis. Information on consultations is included in the back of this book. Once you know your season, you can use the\r\nrest of the book to create an image that will truly reflect you.\r\nSTEP 1: YOUR COLOR HISTORY\r\nHere we want to find key colors you feel you have consistently worn with success throughout your lifetime. This test is not based on image, but purely on flattering\r\nyour face. Image is important, but it comes after you know your season.\r\n44/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThink of Your Most Successful Clothes\r\nFirst, think of compliments you've received. Are people particularly responsive\r\nto you when you wear a certain suit or shirt? Don't dwell only on the clothes\r\ncurrently hanging in your closet. They may be right, but they may reflect this\r\nyear's fashion rather than colors that truly flatter. What colors made you feel good as a kid? Your intuition was probably better\r\nthen, because you weren't yet influenced by the dictates of the adult male world.\r\nOne word of caution: if your mother bought all your clothes and she is a different\r\nseason, she may have dressed you in her colors all through your childhood.\r\nNow think of yourself in your favorite weekend clothes. Because of the business\r\ndress code, men often pick the Winter or Summer palettes because these seasons\r\ncontain the most \"corporate\" colors. When a man tells me he thinks he's a Winter,\r\nbut all his casual weekend clothes are browns and beiges, I can be almost certain\r\nthat this man is an Autumn, simply dressing in grays and blues during the work\u0002week and wearing what he really looks good in on the weekends.\r\nSelect a Column\r\nNow look at the groups of colors below and select the one you feel is most flattering\r\nto you. Think of all the colors in the columns as a casual shirt, turtleneck, or sweater. Pick the group containing the most colors that have brought you com\u0002pliments all your life—even if you're tired of wearing them. This test is based on\r\ncomparison. Each column may have some colors that you have worn, but do they\r\nall look equally good on you? Ask yourself, \"Which group is best?\"\r\nWINTER SUMMER AUTUMN SPRING\r\nBlack Blue-Gray\r\nCharcoal Gray Sky Blue\r\nBurgundy Rose-Brown\r\nRoyal Blue Burgundy\r\nNavy Grayed Navy\r\nRed Pink\r\nPure White Soft White\r\nDark Brown\r\nRust\r\nKhaki\r\nForest Green\r\nOlive Green\r\nDark Peach\r\nOyster White\r\nCamel\r\nGolden Brown\r\nLight Clear Blue\r\nBright Blue\r\nTurquoise\r\nPeach\r\nIvory\r\nAfter you select one column, turn to that season's color chart in Chapter 3. Does\r\nthe whole palette seem to suit you? If you feel pretty confident of your choice,\r\ngo on to Step 2.\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/45\r\nIF YOU'RE UNSURE\r\nIf you are deciding between two seasons, check out the color charts for both.\r\nWhich one is more you? If you're stuck between two seasons, ask yourself the\r\nfollowing questions:\r\nIf you are deciding between\r\nWinter and Autumn, ask:\r\nDoes my face look better when I'm wearing a navy jacket, white shirt, and red\r\ntie (Winter) or, say, a brown tweedy jacket, beige shirt, and rust tie (Autumn)?\r\nDo I need clear, strong colors (Winter), or can I wear muted earth tones (Autumn)?\r\nBrown-eyed Winters sometimes mistake themselves for Autumns. A Winter looks\r\ngood only in a very dark black-brown (not on Winter's color chart). All other\r\nbrowns are boring on a Winter.\r\nWinter and Summer, ask:\r\nDo I look better in a bright white shirt (Winter) or an oxford blue shirt (Summer)\r\nwith my gray suit? Can I wear dusty pastel colors (Summer), or do these muted\r\ncolors make me look washed out (Winter)?\r\nAutumn and Summer, ask:\r\nDo I look absolutely great in dark peach, rust, and brown (Autumn), or am I much\r\nbetter in light blue, blue-tone pinks and burgundy (Summer)? What color sweater\r\nwould you buy?\r\nAutumn and Spring, ask:\r\nDo I look great in dark brown and bittersweet red as well as in muted colors like\r\nmustard and olive green (Autumn), or am I better in clear, medium colors like\r\nmedium golden brown, clear red, light orange and light clear gold (Spring)? The\r\nSpring man will look drab in muted, grayed colors, while the Autumn man looks\r\nbrassy in the clear, brighter colors that so flatter the Spring. If neither of these seasons seems to be working, try Summer. Sometimes it's that camel coat that\r\nled you to choose Autumn or Spring. Summer also has beiges and browns and a type of earth quality of its own.\r\n46/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSpring and Summer, ask:\r\nDoes my face look better in camel, golden brown, salmon, and bright blue (Spring), or in grayed rose-brown, burgundy, blue-toned pinks, and medium blue (Sum\u0002mer)? Remember it's your face, not your image, that counts here.\r\nSpring and Winter, ask:\r\nDo I look great in a camel jacket (Spring), or do I look much better in a dark navy\r\n(Winter)? Am I really terrific in ivory and golden browns (Spring), or am I better\r\nin white and dark colors (Winter)? A Winter man usually recognizes quickly how\r\nbad his face looks in camel.\r\nSTEP 2: EVALUATING YOUR COLORING—SKIN TONE, HAIR\r\nAND EYES\r\nIn this step you will examine your coloring to see if it confirms your choice in\r\nStep 1. First, take a good look at your skin tone, hair color, and eye color. Study yourself\r\nin a mirror, preferably in natural daylight. Give yourself a close shave so your\r\nfacial tone is not influenced by the color of your beard. A man with a heavy beard\r\nwill have to look at other parts of his body. If you color your hair to cover gray\r\nor for any other reason, you will need to remember your natural hair color.\r\nYour skin tone is the most influential factor in determining what colors look\r\nbest on you. Because the skin is translucent, it is actually the tone just under its surface that determines whether your coloring is warm or cool. The cool seasons,\r\nWinter and Summer, have a blue or grayish undertone to the skin, while the warm\r\nAutumns and Springs have a golden or peach undertone.\r\nSome people's skin tone is obvious, but for others the reading can be confusing\r\nand require a trained eye. Don't worry if you can't get a clear determination of\r\nyour skin tone; it is only one part of the test and the other steps will give you\r\nenough information to make a decision. Comparison is helpful. Hold a piece of\r\nwhite paper against your palm or your stomach. Is your skin pink or even grayish\r\nnext to the white, or does it have an ivory or peach cast?\r\nCaution: Be careful not to confuse sallowness with a golden skin tone. Many\r\npeople have sallow skin, which appears yellow on the surface regardless of the\r\nundertone. These people are often Winters and will turn even more sallow wear\u0002ing golden-based colors.\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/47\r\nIn addition, ruddiness can be confusing. In a ruddy complexion, the capillaries are very close to the surface of the skin, giving an intense pinkness to the face,\r\nespecially the cheeks and nose. This should not be confused with a blue under\u0002tone, as, ironically, ruddiness occurs most often in Autumns and Springs, the\r\nwarm seasons. Here it's best to look at your chest and stomach.\r\nOn the following pages are more complete descriptions of skin tone, hair, and\r\neyes for each season. Read only the season you selected in Step 1. If it fits, you\r\ncan skip Step 3 and go on with the rest of the book. If it doesn't fit, then read the\r\ndescription of your second choice from Step 1. After weighing your answers to Steps 1 and 2, and looking at the male prototypes in the previous chapter, pick\r\nwhichever season you feel most suits you.\r\nWinter\r\nSKIN: A Winter's blue undertone is often subtle and difficult to see. There are many varieties of Winters, yet they all need the same cool colors to look their\r\nbest. The majority of Winters in the United States are those with gray-beige skin,\r\nranging from light to dark, usually with no visible pink in their skin. Most olive\u0002skinned people, blacks, and Orientals are Winters, though it is possible to find\r\nOrientals and blacks in any of the seasons. Many Winters are sallow, appearing\r\nyellow, and they misdiagnose themselves as Autumns. Wearing golden colors\r\nincreases their sallow complexion, while the cool Winter colors make the sal- lowness disappear. A Winter may also have extremely white skin and dark hair.\r\nThe white may have a visible pink tone, but more often does not. Winters usually\r\ndo not have rosy cheeks.\r\nHAIR: Winters usually have medium to dark brown or black hair, often glossy.\r\nThe Winter man tends to gray dramatically, either reaching a salt-and-pepper\r\nstage or turning steely white. Hair that grays prematurely is a sign of Winter or Summer. Winter hair usually has an ash tone, although sometimes the hair will\r\nhave red highlights visible in sunlight (this is not the metallic red seen in Autumn\r\nhair, however). Occasionally a Winter had white-blond hair as a child, but it turned dark by age five or six and is quite dark in adulthood. It is rare to see a blond Winter adult, but when it happens, his hair is often very blond and he is indeed a striking man.\r\n48/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nEYES: Winter eyes can be black-brown, red-brown, green, blue or hazel, and are most often a deep color. The green or blue eyes of a Winter are distinguished by\r\nwhite flecks in the iris and often a gray rim around the edge of the iris. The hazel\u0002eyed Winter usually has a brown smudge with jagged edges surrounding the pupil,\r\nwith either blue or green extending to the outer iris. Occasionally a green-eyed\r\nWinter has a single thick yellow line going from the pupil to the edge of the iris like a single spoke on a wheel. In general, all Winter eyes tend to have a look of\r\nhigh contrast between the whites of the eyes and the iris. This clue is especially\r\nhelpful if you are deciding between Winter and Summer, as the white of a Summer\r\neye is usually much softer with less contrast to the iris.\r\nWINTER PROTOTYPES: Burt Reynolds, Omar Sharif, Dustin Hoffman, Eddie\r\nMurphy, Richard Nixon, Tom Brokaw, Eric Estrada, Christopher Reeve\r\nWINTER CHECKLIST\r\nCheck the characteristics that describe you:\r\nSkin: Very white\r\nWhite with slight pink tone\r\nBeige (no cheek color, may be sallow)\r\nGray-beige or brown\r\nRosy beige\r\nOlive\r\nBlack (blue undertone)\r\nBlack (sallow)\r\nHair: Blue-black\r\nDark brown (may have red highlights)\r\nMedium ash brown\r\nSalt and pepper\r\nSilver-gray\r\nWhite blond (rare)\r\nWhite\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/49\r\nEyes: Dark red-brown\r\nBlack-brown\r\nHazel (brown plus blue or green)\r\nGray-blue\r\nBlue with white flecks in iris (may have gray rim)\r\nDark blue, violet\r\nGray-green\r\nGreen with white flecks in iris (may have gray rim)\r\nSummer\r\nSKIN: Summers often have visible pink in their skin, so it is easy to see the blue\r\nundertone. Some Summers are very fair and pale and have little pink rings under\r\nthe skin on the whitest parts of their bodies. The skin may have a translucent\r\nquality. Other Summers have rose-beige skin or sallow beige skin, making it hard\r\nto see the blue undertone. A sallow Summer makes an especially dramatic im\u0002provement in his appearance when he wears his cool colors. Black Summers have\r\na soft grayish tone to their skin, and their skin is fairly light.\r\nHAIR: As a child, Summer is often blond, his hair color ranging from white\r\n(towhead) to ash blond. While he is in his teens, his hair tends to darken, and\r\nby high school it has usually turned a light ash (grayish) brown. Summer blonds\r\nbleach quickly in the sun, so often a Summer man has brown hair in the wintertime\r\nand blond hair in summertime. If he spends lots of time outdoors, his blond hair\r\nmay become golden, which can make him look deceptively like a Spring. (To\r\njudge your hair color accurately, look at the roots. If they are not golden, you are probably a Summer.) Brunette Summers also have hair with an ash tone, ranging\r\nfrom light to dark brown. Usually a very dark-haired Summer has extremely light\r\nskin, and visible pink in his cheeks. Occasionally a Summer has auburn hair\r\n(slightly red-brown) and can be confused with an Autumn. A Summer usually\r\ntans, while an Autumn more often burns. The Summer man's hair grays pleasantly\r\nto a soft salt and pepper, a blue-gray, or a pearly white. Gray is a cool color and\r\nblends well with the ash tones of his hair, giving him a distinguished look. (One\r\ncaution: On a Summer man, a beard or sideburns often grow in red. Use only the\r\nhair on top of your head to do this analysis.)\r\n50/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nEYES: Summer eyes are usually blue, green, gray or hazel, with a cloudy look to the iris. Often there is a gray rim around the edge of the iris, or the entire eye\r\ncolor looks grayed. Hazel eyes have a soft, grayed brown smudge around the pupil\r\nwith edges blending into blue or green. The iris in a blue or green eye has a white\r\nwebbing throughout, giving the appearance of cracked glass. Some Summers have\r\nsoft ro.se-brown or grayed brown eyes. The whites of a Summer's eyes are creamy,\r\nin soft contrast to the iris, as opposed to a Winter, whose eyes have sharp contrast.\r\nSUMMER PROTOTYPES: Prince Albert of Monaco, John Ritter, Paul Newman,\r\nJohnny Carson, Christopher Atkins, Merv Griffin, Jimmy Stewart, David Hartman,\r\nAlan Alda, Tab Hunter, Gavin MacLeod\r\nSUMMER CHECKLIST\r\nCheck the characteristics that describe you:\r\nSkin: Pale beige with pink cheeks\r\nBeige with no cheek color (even sallow)\r\nRosy beige\r\nVery pink\r\nGray-brown\r\nRosy brown\r\nHair: White blond\r\nAsh blond\r\nWarm ash blond (slightly golden)\r\nDark ash blond\r\nAsh brown\r\nDark brown (taupe tone)\r\nBrown with auburn cast\r\nBlue-gray\r\nPearl white\r\nEyes: Blue (with white webbing in iris, cloudy look)\r\nGreen (with white webbing in iris, cloudy look)\r\nSoft gray-blue\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/51\r\nSoft gray-green\r\nBright, clear blue\r\nPale, clear aqua (eyes change from blue to green,\r\ndepending on clothes)\r\nHazel (cloudy brown smudge with blue or green)\r\nPale gray\r\nSoft rose-brown\r\nGrayed brown\r\nAutumn\r\nSKIN: Look for the golden undertone. Autumns come in three varieties: the fair- skinned man with ivory or creamy peach skin; the true redhead, often with freck\u0002les; and the golden beige man whose skin ranges from medium to deep copper.\r\nMany Autumns are pale and will look better in their darker or richer colors.\r\nAutumn men often sunburn and cannot get a tan. Autumns and Springs often\r\nhave similar coloring, but the Autumn man usually has no cheek color, and the\r\nSpring does. On the other hand, some Autumns are ruddy and may look pink,\r\nbut the pink is more peachy than blue. These Autumns look good in a few Summer\r\ncolors, but really come to life in the true Autumn palette. A few Orientals and\r\nblacks are Autumns if they have a truly golden undertone, but most are other\r\nseasons.\r\nHAIR: Autumn's hair is usually touched with red or golden highlights. It ranges\r\nfrom auburn to copper, strawberry blond to carrot-top, dark golden blond to warm\r\nbrown. Some blond Autumns have hair often referred to as \"dirty blond,\" and\r\nthese men can easily be confused with Summer. A few swarthy Autumns have\r\ncharcoal black hair. Autumn hair, except for a few auburns and dark brunettes,\r\ntends to have a matte rather than a shiny finish. The Autumn man usually does\r\nnot gray dramatically because the gray may detract from his warm-toned hair.\r\nOnce his hair has turned completely gray, it looks harmonious and has a warm,\r\ngolden cast. During the in-between stage, he may prefer to color the gray with a warm tone as close to his original as possible.\r\nEYES: Autumn eyes are usually golden brown, or green with orange or golden\r\nstreaks radiating from a star formation that surrounds the pupil. Sometimes there\r\n52/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nare isolated brown specks in the iris. Some Autumns have clear green eyes, like\r\nglass, or deep olive green cat eyes. There are a few vivid blue (turquoise) and\r\nsteel blue Autumn eyes that are marked by a teal gray rim around the edge of the\r\niris. Occasionally an Autumn man has extremely pale blue or teal eyes, giving\r\nthe appearance of a clear ring around the pupil. He is a pastel Autumn, looking\r\nbest in the muted colors of the palette.\r\nAUTUMN PROTOTYPES: Robert Redford, Dick Cavett, Red Skelton, Charlton\r\nHeston, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Woody Allen, General Douglas MacArthur,\r\nWilliam Marriott, Jr. AUTUMN CHECKLIST\r\nCheck the characteristics that describe you:\r\nSkin: Ivory\r\nIvory with freckles (usually redhead)\r\nPeach\r\nPeach with freckles (usually golden blond, brown)\r\nGolden beige\r\nDark beige (coppery)\r\nGolden brown\r\nHair: Red\r\nCoppery brown\r\nAuburn\r\nGolden brown (dark honey)\r\nGolden blond (honey)\r\n\"Dirty\" blond\r\nStrawberry blond\r\nCharcoal brown or black\r\nGolden gray\r\nOyster white\r\nEyes: Dark brown\r\nGolden brown\r\nAmber\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/53\r\nHazel (golden brown, green, gold)\r\nGreen (with brown or gold flecks)\r\nClear green\r\nOlive green\r\nSteel blue\r\nTeal blue\r\nBright turquoise\r\nSpring\r\nSKIN: Look for the golden undertone. The Spring man's skin is either ivory,\r\npeachy pink or golden beige, and he often has rosy cheeks or blushes easily. Some\r\nSprings are ruddy and can easily be confused with Summers because of their\r\napparent pinkness. Even their knuckles may look purple. (If this describes you,\r\nlook at the parts of your body that aren't ruddy to see the true tone.) Freckles,\r\nusually a golden tan color, come naturally to the Spring man. Other Springs have\r\nclear, creamy skin. Even if he has freckles, the Spring man's skin usually has a\r\nclear, bright quality. Black and Oriental Springs have light, golden skin.\r\nHAIR: Spring's hair is flaxen blond, yellow blond, honey, strawberry, taffy red\r\nor golden brown. Spring doesn't have ash-tone hair, as Summer does. In childhood\r\nmany Springs are blond, but their hair usually darkens with age. An occasional\r\nSpring has dark brown hair. Gray usually arrives in a yellow or cream tone on\r\na Spring. If his hair is light, the gray often blends beautifully, making him look\r\n\"blond.\" On a dark-haired Spring, the gray may detract from the golden tone of\r\nhis hair. The Spring man may want to cover his gray until his hair is totally gray.\r\nOnce the two-tone look is gone, his gray hair is beautiful and has a pale, warm,\r\ndove gray tone. Spring men often go from gray to a creamy white, a softly elegant\r\nlook for them.\r\nEYES: Spring's eyes are most often blue, green, teal or aqua, often with golden\r\nflecks in the iris. Some Spring men have eyes as clear as glass, giving the impres\u0002sion of a clear ring surrounding the pupil. Most Spring eyes have a \"sunburst\"\r\naround the pupil. Inside the sunburst you may see a doughnut tightly surrounding\r\nthe pupil. Fibers radiate from the edge of the sunburst to the edge of the iris,\r\nmuch like the spokes of a wheel. Some Springs have brown eyes, but they are\r\n54 COLOR FOR MEN\r\nalways golden or topaz. A Spring's hazel eyes contain golden brown, green and\r\ngold. A few Spring men have eyes of deep blue that appear to be steel gray from\r\na distance.\r\nSPRING PROTOTiTES: Ron Howard. lohn Davidson. Tom Smothers. Jimmy\r\nCarter. William Shatner. Michael Caine. Leslie Howard\r\nSPRIXG CHECKLIST\r\nCheck the characteristics that describe you:\r\nSkin: Creamy ivory\r\nIvory with golden freckles\r\nPeach\r\nPeach pink (may have pink purple knuckles)\r\nGolden beige\r\nGolden brown\r\nRosy cheeks (may blush easily)\r\nHair: Flaxen blond\r\nYellow blond\r\nHoney blond\r\nStrawberry blond (usually with freckles)\r\nStrawberry redhead (usually with freckles)\r\nAuburn\r\nGolden brown\r\nRed-black (rare)\r\nDove gray\r\nCreamy white\r\nEyes: Blue with white rays\r\nClear blue\r\nSteel blue\r\nGreen with golden flecks\r\nClear green\r\nAqua\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/55\r\nTeal\r\nGolden brown\r\nBy now you should know your correct season. Do not be overly technical about\r\nanalyzing yourself. What looks good on you is the best test of all. If you want to verify your choice or if you are still trying to decide between two seasons, take\r\nStep 3 and see yourself in the colors. Otherwise go on to Chapter 5 to learn how\r\nto use your colors.\r\n(OPTIONAL) STEP 3: SEEING YOURSELF IN TEST COLORS\r\nThis is the at-home version of what we do in our consultations. Some people are genetically on the cusp of two seasons, and holding the colors under your face\r\nwill help you see which season is best. You may look pretty good in some colors\r\nfrom one season, but on the whole look better in another palette. Never judge by\r\none color alone.\r\nThis test is based on comparison. You should compare one color against an\u0002other, perhaps several times, to see which is better. In the box below, locate the\r\ntwo seasons you are trying to decide between.\r\nAUTUMN or WINTER SUMMER or SPRING\r\nBrown or Navy Burgundy or Light Orange\r\nWarm Beige or Pure White Rose-Brown or Golden Brown\r\nRust or Blue-Red Blue-Pink or Peach/Apricot\r\nAUTUMN or SPRING SUMMER or WINTER\r\nDark Chocolate or Medium Golden Rose-Brown or Black\r\nBrown Brown Soft White or Pure White\r\nMustard or Light Clear Gold Medium or Royal Blue\r\nKhaki or Ivory Blue\r\nAUTUMN or SUMMER WINTER or SPRING\r\nRust or Blue-Red Black or Camel\r\nMoss Green or Blue-Green Pure White or Ivory\r\nTeal Blue or Powder Blue Burgundy or Light Orange\r\n56/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nGather the colors of the two seasons in question. Any solid-color fabric will\r\ndo (shirts, towels, your wife's scarves, your child's T-shirts).\r\nGive yourself a close shave so you can really see your skin tone.\r\nFind a place with bright natural daylight, or bring a mirror to a window.\r\nFluorescent light changes the color of both your skin tone and the fabric\r\ncolors.\r\nAsk for some outside opinions (people tend to favor their own colors, so ask\r\nmore than one person in order to avoid individual bias).\r\nHold the colors under your face, using the combinations suggested in the\r\nbox. Place the two test colors one on top of the other and hold them under\r\nyour face. Look at the effect of the top color for a few seconds, then peel the\r\ntop color off so you can see the effect of the second color. Repeat several\r\ntimes. Then go on to the next two colors. Remember, this test is based on\r\ncomparison. One color may look okay, but the other will be better.\r\nThere are two rules:\r\n1. Be objective. Try not to be influenced by your favorite and least favorite\r\ncolors.\r\n2. Look at the face, not the color.\r\nHere's what to look for as you compare the colors under your face:\r\nRIGHT COLOR\r\nThe color smoothes and clarifies your\r\nface. It minimizes the beard line, shad\u0002ows, and circles under the eyes. It makes wrinkles or lines at the side of\r\nthe mouth and nose blend smoothly\r\ninto your face. It brings out a healthy\r\nglow in your skin. It makes your eyes\r\nsparkle. Your face pops forward, push\u0002ing the color into the background. The\r\ncolor harmonizes with your face.\r\nWRONG COLOR\r\nThe color may make your face look\r\npale, sallow or \"dirty.\" It will accen\u0002tuate a heavy beard, lines, wrinkles or shadows under the eyes. It will accen\u0002tuate blotches or scars, if any. It dulls\r\nyour eyes. It may age your face, espe\u0002cially if you are over thirty. The color\r\nwill look too strong or too weak, in\r\neither case pushing your face into the\r\nbackground. The color does not har\u0002monize with your face.\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SEASON/57\r\nHere are the questions I am most frequently asked:\r\nCan I be more than one season?\r\nNot really. Some men are on the cusp of two seasons, but with testing, one palette\r\nwill prove to be better than the other. Even if more than one color chart appeals\r\nto you, you are doing yourself a disservice to mix the palettes. Each chart is designed to create an automatically coordinated wardrobe, so \"borrowing\" from\r\ndifferent palettes defeats the system. Remember, your genes determine your skin\r\ntone, hair color, and eye color, which in turn determine the colors that look best on you. Your best colors are not a matter of taste, but of fact.\r\nDoes my season change with a tan?\r\nNo. Your genetically determined skin tone doesn't change, it simply darkens with\r\na tan or fades somewhat with age. The same seasonal palette will always be best\r\nfor you.\r\nWhen you are tan you can wear \"wrong\" colors more successfully, but why do\r\nit? You'll ruin your image and your wardrobe.\r\nDoes my season change when my hair gets gray?\r\nNo. However, once your hair is gray you may prefer to wear the lighter or softer\r\ncolors from your palette. Your most flattering neutral colors will be the ones that\r\nharmonize with your hair—your season's grays and blues.\r\nNow that you've assessed your color history, evaluated your coloring and pos\u0002sibly even tested yourself in colors, you should feel confident that you know your\r\ncorrect season. With this the pleasure of wearing your colors begins! Try out your\r\nseason by wearing something you already own in your colors. Notice the response\r\nyou get. The compliments you receive will confirm your choice.\r\n5\r\nCHAPTER\r\n•\r\nUNDERSTANDING\r\nYOUR COLORS\r\nYour seasonal color chart makes it easy to look good. But beyond\r\ncoordinating your wardrobe, your colors also define your image and express your\r\npersonality. Once you understand the colors themselves and have a concept of\r\nyour season, you will be able to determine which colors within your palette are best for you, as well as to shop easily for your colors when you buy clothes. This\r\nchapter will focus on individualizing your colors, on using your colors in business\r\nand sportswear, and on understanding the colors themselves when you shop.\r\nINDIVIDUALIZING YOUR COLORS\r\nYour Coloring\r\nBy now you may be thinking, I'm a Winter with pale skin and John's a Winter,\r\ntoo, but with dark olive skin. How can we both use the same color chart as a guide?\r\nEach season does encompass a wide range of people with different intensities\r\nof coloring, but your season's color chart may be interpreted to suit you as an\r\nindividual. In our consultations, we drape each man in each color of his entire\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/59\r\npalette, using large pieces of fabric in order to see which colors are best. Most men\r\nwear all their colors well, but some men, depending upon their hair color and\r\nthe depth of their skin tone, wear some colors better than others close to the face.\r\nIf you are fair, some of the brightest colors may overpower your face and are best\r\nreserved for use as an accent in a tie or a striped shirt. By the same token, if you\r\nlook best in the stronger shades from your season, mix your paler colors and\r\nneutrals with other, more intense colors. Use the pale colors as accent in prints\r\nand away from the face. All your colors are valuable to you because they give\r\nyou infinite variety and the ability to build a coordinated and flattering wardrobe.\r\nYour Personality\r\nYour personality also influences how you will use your seasonal colors. Some\r\nmen are comfortable only in conservative colors, even in sportswear, while others\r\nare more daring. Suit yourself. Each color chart has conservative as well as bold\r\ncolors. All the colors will flatter you, but you will be most successful when you\r\ninterpret your palette to reflect your personality.\r\nYour Image\r\nYour image is another consideration. Whatever your season, you can project the\r\nimage you desire. Each chart provides you with the opportunity to be authoritative\r\nor low-key, sophisticated or casual, formal or informal. While one Autumn may\r\nprefer to dress with high contrast and project an image of power, another Autumn\r\nmay want an elegant but understated monochromatic look.\r\nYour Mood\r\nAnd finally, each season can be interpreted so it reflects your mood. There are colors in your palette to express any mood, on a daily basis or even in yearly\r\ntrends. You may spend several years in the mood for bright colors and then swing\r\nto a desire for calm ones.\r\n60/COLOR FOR MEN -\r\nTo truly individualize your colors, consider:\r\n1. The intensity of your coloring. Is your coloring strong or subtle?\r\n2. Your personality. Are you conservative or daring?\r\n3. Your desired image. Do you want to project an image that's\r\nauthoritative or low-key, sophisticated or casual, formal or informal?\r\n4. Your mood.\r\nUSING YOUR BUSINESS COLORS\r\nIn many professions, men want an image that conveys power and authority on\r\nsome days and the cooperative team player on others. Many men work in offices\r\nand shops that require a degree of conformity to a standard dress code. A well\u0002groomed, conservative image is the most effective. If you happen to work at a profession or in a business that allows more individual style —journalism, for\r\nexample, or advertising—you can afford to be less conservative.\r\nAmerican businessmen have traditionally dressed in navy and gray, but not all men can wear the standard business colors with equal success. You need to adapt\r\nthe image appropriate for your profession to your season so that you can both\r\nlook good and project your desired image.\r\nKeep in mind the following general rules to make your business dressing ef- fective and attractive:\r\n1. When your goal is to convey authority, wear your season's dark colors. Navy\r\nis the favorite, but Autumns may want to consider charcoal brown.\r\n2. Wear your season's grays and/or tans when you want a lower-key image. A\r\nsport coat, if your profession allows it, is always less serious or authoritative\r\nthan a suit.\r\n3. Create the strongest overall image for you by wearing the right colors for\r\nyou. You can make subtle adjustments to your business wardrobe without\r\nhaving to break the dress code of your work environment. Be sure to wear\r\nthe right colors in your shirt and tie. You'll look better, and consequently\r\nothers will see you more favorably.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/61\r\nUSING YOUR COLORS IN SPORTS CLOTHES\r\nThe world of casual dressing ranges from sporty to natty, high fashion to preppie,\r\nrugged to sensual. Here is your chance to explore your colors and your character\r\nfreely. The Brights on your chart offer a bounty of special sporty colors. By using\r\nthem as accents or in combination with more subdued Neutrals and Lights, you\r\ncan find new ways of expressing your style.\r\nThe safest way to wear your Brights is to buy your pants in neutral, conservative\r\ncolors and try the bright or unusual colors in shirts. If you have an outgoing,\r\nunconventional personality, then you can go all the way with colorful pants and\r\nsport coats. You will still look tasteful as long as you stick to your palette because\r\nthe colors will go together and will go with you. The only time you'll call negative\r\nattention to yourself is if you wear a daring color that is wrong for you.\r\nIf you want to try a color but aren't sure you will feel comfortable wearing it, buy it in an inexpensive T-shirt. When you get compliments, you will start liking\r\nthat color!\r\nFor romance, think pink or peach, depending on your season. It's true! Women\r\nlove a man in a pink shirt over candlelight. Try it! Following is a basic explanation of each season's colors. Because it is difficult\r\nto print the color swatches 100 percent accurately, these verbal descriptions will\r\nhelp you understand the concept of your colors when you shop for clothes.* In\r\naddition, I've added specific information for each season on individualizing your\r\ncolors—as well as how to use your colors for business clothes and sportswear.\r\nRead only your season, then skip to the end of this chapter, where you will find\r\na chart comparing your colors with those of the other seasons. You may also want\r\nto review the color comparison chart on pages 84-86.\r\nWINTER\r\nWhen you shop, think: contrast\r\nsharp\r\ntrue or blue undertone\r\nVIVID\r\nICY Winter colors are intense. Your Winter image depends on sharp contrast and clear\r\ncolors. A clear color looks pure and \"clean.\" Never wear anything dull or muted,\r\nespecially in ties. Look for the sharp navies and reds rather than the muted ones.\r\n* Directions for using the color chart to select clothes are in the Shopping chapter, pp. 199-203\r\n62/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nIn general you wear dark colors, vivid colors, or very light, icy colors —no pastels\r\nfor you.\r\nTHE WINTER PALETTE\r\nWhite Winter is the only season with pure white. A Winter\r\nman is never boring in a white shirt! You can also wear\r\nSummer's soft white (but not ivory or yellowish\r\nwhite), though it will not be quite as dashing on you\r\nas the bright white.\r\nBlack Winter is also the only season who can wear black.\r\nYou look great in dark colors, and any of your colors\r\nmay get darker and darker until they look almost black.\r\nGray Your grays range from charcoal to icy gray. They must\r\nbe true grays, not yellowish or blue. Once your hair\r\nhas turned completely gray, you may add blue grays\r\nto your palette.\r\nTaupe (Gray-Beige) Your beige is not tan-toned but gray-beige (taupe).\r\nWhen worn near the face, it must be light and clear.\r\nYou may choose a darker shade in pants, shoes, and\r\nleather goods. Beige in general is a difficult color for a Winter to wear.\r\nNavy blue is excellent on you. You may wear any\r\nshade of navy near the face except grayed navy. Your\r\nother blues are true, royal, Chinese, and turquoise, all deep or bright.\r\nWinter's reds are either true red or blue-reds, including\r\nburgundy. Your burgundy must be clear, sharp, and\r\nbright, rather than a muted or brownish tone.\r\nBlue\r\nRed\r\nGreen Your greens range from a true green to emerald to pine.\r\nPine is similar to Autumn's forest green except that it\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/63\r\nhas a blue cast rather than a yellow tone. You can see\r\nthis difference by comparing the two colors side by\r\nside. Winter men who previously never liked green\r\noften discover that they love their greens.\r\nYellow Your yellow is special. You can wear only a clear\r\nlemon yellow that does not verge the least bit on gold.\r\nStick closely to your swatch when shopping for your\r\nyellow. It's hard to find.\r\nPink and Purple Winter's pinks and purples are deep colors. The shock\u0002ing and deep hot pink are less conservative, while ma\u0002genta and fuchsia are quite sophisticated colors.\r\nIcy colors Icy colors are unique to the Winter palette. You can wear any of your colors in an icy version, including\r\ntaupe and gray. An icy color is clear and sharp, like\r\nwearing white with a hint of color added. Your icy\r\ncolors are blue, violet, pink, green, yellow, and aqua.\r\nBe careful not to accidentally buy a Summer's pastel\r\nshirt instead of your icy tone. You will lose the sharp\r\ncontrast that brightens your face and makes your Win\u0002ter image so effective.\r\nAvoid all colors with golden undertones, such as orange, rust, peach, gold, yellow\u0002green, orange-red, tans, and browns. If you must wear brown, choose a black\u0002brown that is dark enough to wear with black shoes and belt. Avoid pastels and\r\nall dusty, muted colors. When shopping you may use your chart or color swatches\r\nas a general guideline for all colors except your yellow and taupe (gray-beige),\r\nwhich should be matched as closely as possible.\r\nIndividualizing Your Colors\r\nThe fair-skinned Winter man may find that soft white is better than pure white,\r\nand may also find that the icy and the darkest colors are better for him than the\r\ntrue, bright colors (see Dale, p. 27). Dark-skinned Winters may find that taupe\r\nand the light and medium grays are best when worn mixed with other, brighter\r\n64/COLOR FOR MEN\r\ncolors near the face (see Danny, p. 26). Some Orientals and olive-skinned men\r\nwho are very sallow will not wear burgundy, fuchsia or their pinks as effectively\r\nas their other colors. A Winter with sandy brown or gray hair may add powder\r\nblue to his palette (see Ben, p. 26 and Tim, p. 27). Although it's a Summer color,\r\na lighter-haired Winter can wear it.\r\nBusiness Colors\r\nWinters have the easiest time shopping for standard business clothes. Black, navy,\r\nand gray suits all look good on you. You may have trouble in the summertime,\r\nhowever, finding your version of a \"tan\" suit. Every now and then your taupe\r\nappears on the marketplace. Don't compromise. The usual tan suits look terrible\r\non a Winter.\r\nYour best business shirt is white, but the icy colors under Lights in your chart\r\ngive you extra leeway for conservative yet stylish dressing. Icy blue, gray, and\r\nyellow are suitable for business or dress. Icy pink and vioJet are suitable for some\r\nbusiness environments and are excellent for evening dress. Icy green is usually\r\nbest with a sport coat. Aqua is best with a tuxedo or in a sporty oxford cloth shirt.\r\nYou will usually find your icy colors in designer shirts. Most of the oxford button\u0002downs are too dark and will look drab on you. The usual blue business shirts are best for Summers. If you can't find icy blue, then choose the lightest oxford blue\r\nyou can find.\r\nYour best ties come from your red family. Any dark blue-red or bright burgundy\r\ntie, solid or patterned, is an excellent business look for you, as is a dark navy tie,\r\nespecially if it has some red or white accents in it. A taupe trenchcoat is hard to find, as most of the beige trenchcoats are not your\r\ntone. If you can't find your gray-beige, consider navy or gray. Italian and German\r\ntrenchcoats often come in gray.\r\nSportswear Colors\r\nYou can't beat a Winter in a navy blazer. But for variety try a bright burgundy or pine green blazer—preferably in a rich fabric such as cashmere or a fine wool.\r\nThat will make you feel better when you pass by the camel jackets, leaving them\r\non the rack for Springs or Autumns. Tweeds, even in your colors, usually don't\r\nlook as good on you as solids. A pair of gray or navy trousers will go with every\u0002thing in your palette.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/65\r\nSUMMER\r\nWhen you shop, think: blended\r\nSUBTLE\r\nBLUE TONE\r\nROSE TONE\r\nThe Summer palette gains its strength from a harmonious blend of tones, even\r\nin its most vivid shades. The Summer man's image is enhanced by soft contrasts\r\nand subtle color combinations. His dark colors should be slightly grayed (muted)\r\nin order to avoid looking harsh or overpowering his natural coloring. He can wear\r\neither clear or muted colors in his pastel and medium shades.\r\nTHE SUMMER PALETTE\r\nSoft White The Summer man's most flattering white is a soft\r\n(but not yellow) one. It is less \"blue\" than Winter's\r\npure white.\r\nRose-Beige and Brown Your beige must always have a rose cast, rather\r\nthan an ivory or yellow tone. You can wear browns\r\nfrom medium to darkish as long as they, too, are rose-toned. Your browns are especially flattering if they are muted (grayed).\r\nSummer does not have black, as it is overpowering\r\non the Summer man.\r\nSummer may wear all blue-grays from light to dark,\r\nbut should avoid true grays or yellowish grays.\r\nGrays devoid of blue will look dead on a Summer.\r\nYour navy is a grayed navy, more flattering to you\r\nthan a bright or black navy. Unfortunately, your\r\nnavy is hard to find and you will often have to compromise. You may wear almost all other blues,\r\nlight, medium, or dark, but not the extremely bright\r\nor royal blues of Winter. Your blues may be clear\r\n(Black)\r\nBlue-Gray\r\nBlue\r\nor muted, and your lighter blue suits will have lots\r\nof gray in them. When using aqua-toned blues, keep\r\nthem soft. You can also wear periwinkle, a blue\r\nwith violet in it.\r\nYour greens are all in the blue-green family, ranging\r\nfrom a light pastel shirt color to medium blue-green\r\nsport colors to a dark spruce green suitable for a sport coat or slacks. Your spruce green, like your\r\nnavy, is a little grayer than Winter's. This spruce\r\ngreen is especially good on brown-eyed Summers.\r\nSummer's yellow is a light, lemon hue, ranging\r\nfrom pastel to a slightly brighter shade. Avoid yel\u0002lows that are golden.\r\nYour pinks are blue-toned pinks ranging from light\r\nshirt colors to medium shades to deeper rose and\r\nfuchsia colors. Although you may wear bright\r\npinks, be careful not to buy the intensely clear and\r\nbright shades from the Winter chart.\r\nSummer's reds range from raspberry to watermelon\r\nto blue-reds. You may wear dark blue-red as well\r\nas burgundy and all wine colors. Unlike Winter,\r\nyour reds may be either clear and bright or slightly\r\nmuted.\r\nPlum is your version of purple. It is a grayed purple,\r\nnot as intense or as dark as the royal purple of Win\u0002ter. Lavender, orchid, and mauve are wonderful\r\ncolors for you, and they are easily found in both\r\nlight shades for dress shirts and slightly darker\r\nshades for sportswear. You don't have to be careful\r\nwhen selecting these colors. Use your swatches as\r\na guideline. If the fabric color blends with the\r\nswatch, it's yours.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/67\r\nAvoid pure white, camel, yellowish beiges, tans and browns, gold, orange, peach,\r\norange-reds, yellow-greens, and black. Use your chart or color swatches just as a general guideline except when shopping for rose-beige and yellow, when you\r\nshould match the color as closely as possible.\r\nIndividualizing Your Colors\r\nFair Summers with blond or light hair should keep the darkest colors of burgundy,\r\nspruce green, and dark blue-red as accents or use them in combination with a mellowing shirt and tie (see Gordon, p. 30). These dark colors may be too strong\r\nin a large amount right next to your face. Summers with dark brown hair are particularly handsome in the dark colors and in the more vivid colors from the\r\nSummer chart. This type of Summer just missed being a Winter (see Billy, p. 31). Brown-eyed and green-eyed Summers often look especially good in their\r\nbrowns and greens and should keep their blues and grays mixed with other colors\r\nfor maximum impact (see John, p. 31). These Summers are close kin to Autumns,\r\nhaving an earthy quality yet needing cool, blue-based colors to flatter, rather than\r\nyellow-based ones.\r\nBusiness Colors\r\nThe Summer palette, like that of Winter's, lends itself beautifully to the traditional\r\nbusiness colors. Although it's best to find a grayed navy suit when possible, almost\r\nany navy that's not too blue and bright will do well for you when combined with\r\nyour best shirt and tie colors. Besides navy, you have a wide range of suits in\r\nlighter blue shades. The medium brown suits that are most acceptable in business\r\nare great for you—as long as they have a rose tone. Your summerweight \"tan\" is hard to find. Occasionally you will find a suit in your rose-beige (your tan), but\r\nmost often the tan suits will be for Autumns. Don't compromise. The wrong tan\r\nwill look terrible on you. You do not wear black, but you can use your dark\r\ncharcoal biue-gray suit to serve as your black. Because of your relatively lighter\r\ncoloring, this gray will look dark and authoritative on you. Both your soft white\r\nand your charcoal biue-gray will appear as strong within your color chart as black\r\nand white do within the Winter chart. The impact of color is relative within the season and works proportionately with your coloring to create a powerful image.\r\nBe sure when buying a gray suit to choose a blue-gray. It's easy to spot the blue\u0002grays hanging on the racks when you compare them to the true and charcoal\r\ngrays.\r\nYour business shirts are easy to find. The majority of ready-made pastel shirts are for you. All the bJues as well as yellow and rose-beige are great for business,\r\nin addition to your soft white. In some business situations you can wear your\r\npink or lavender shirts as well. You may even wear a light blue-gray shirt, es- pecially if your hair is gray.\r\nFor ties, choose your burgundy and blue-red, either solids or patterns. Make\r\nsure these reds are slightly toned down. Use watermelon red, which is brighter,\r\nas a background color in a foulard tie. Your grayed navy and all shades of blue,\r\nmixed with white, gray, silver, mauve, or yellow, are great business ties for you.\r\nYour trenchcoat, like your summer suit, may be hard to find in rose-beige. If you can't find one, consider navy.\r\nSportswear Colors\r\nA navy blazer is a great look for you, especially with a blue shirt. For variety you\r\nmight want to try a spruce green or burgundy blazer in the wintertime or a medium\r\nblue, periwinkle, or other pastel shade in a summerweight blazer. Many Summers,\r\nbecause of their softer coloring, look great in soft tweeds or even plaids in blue\r\nand gray, or brown and blue combinations. A pair of blue-gray trousers will go\r\nwith almost everything in your palette. If you favor your browns, buy a pair of cocoa slacks for maximum versatility.\r\nAUTUMN\r\nWhen you shop, think: warm\r\nRICH\r\nSPICY\r\nGOLDEN UNDERTONES\r\nEARTH TONES\r\nAutumn colors can be either clear or muted, but always have warm golden un\u0002dertones. A clear color looks pure and clean; a muted color is toned down by the\r\naddition of brown, gray, or gold. Most Autumns prefer their medium or bright\r\ncolors slightly muted. The Autumn chart gains its power from an artful combi\u0002nation of blended tones with the more assertive, dark colors.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/69\r\nTHE AUTUMN PALETTE\r\nOyster White Your best white is oyster (beigish white). You may also\r\nwear ivory (a yellowish white) and the soft white from\r\nthe Summer palette, but never pure white. It will make\r\nyou look pale.\r\n(Black and Gray) You have no black or gray, so you will need to use dark\r\ncharcoal brown as your black or charcoal gray and cof\u0002fee brown as your gray. Coffee is any brown that has\r\ngray added.\r\nBrown and Beige All your beiges and browns are warm earth tones. Your\r\ndark chocolate brown and mahogany are rich colors.\r\nCamels, khakis, and tans are also good for you. Your\r\nbronze is an unusual color, flattering to an Autumn\r\nonly.\r\nBlue A marine navy is the only navy that truly flatters the\r\nAutumn man. It is a navy tinged with teal or the color\r\nof the sea, and it's hard to find. You can wear any kind\r\nof teal blue, though the darker and richer the color, the\r\nbetter. Your turquoise is medium to dark and has warm\r\nyellow undertones. By comparing turquoises in the\r\nstore, you can see that some are clear and bright (not\r\nfor you), while others are yellower and slightly\r\nmuted—again a full-bodied color. Periwinkle is a blue\r\nwith a violet cast. In general, you look best in a deep\r\nperiwinkle.\r\nGreen Your greens range from dark forest green to olive, jade,\r\nand grayed greens. You can wear any green that has a golden tone, from subtle to bright. A light, grayed green\r\nis excellent.\r\nGold and Yellow Your golden-colors are plentiful. Choose gold in a qual\u0002ity fabric or this color may have an inexpensive look.\r\n70/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nYou can wear any shade of gold, from light buff to mus\u0002tard to a bright yellow-gold.\r\nOrange Your oranges include terra-cotta and rust colors, which\r\nare easy to find in all types of clothing. Your pumpkin\r\nand bright orange are sport colors, good in prints or in\r\nsolids for the less conservative.\r\nPeach and Salmon Your best peach, apricot, and salmon shades are deep.\r\nUse the light versions mixed with darker or brighter\r\ncolors to add oomph. Salmon is your version of pink.\r\nRed You may wear any red with an orange base, ranging\r\nfrom bright orange-red to bittersweet and dark tomato\r\n(more muted shades). Your reds may get brownish, re- sembling maroon. Avoid burgundy, as it is too \"blue\"\r\nand harsh for you, thus bringing out any lines in your\r\nface.\r\nAvoid pure white, black, and gray. Avoid all pinks, burgundies, blue-reds, or colors with blue undertones. Keep your pastel colors, as well as peach, salmon,\r\nand periwinkle, a medium to dark shade when worn alone near the face (i.e., without the benefit of suit and tie). You may use your chart or color swatches as\r\na general guideline except when shopping for navy and periwinkle, when you\r\nshould try to match the color as closely as possible.\r\nIndividualizing Your Colors\r\nA fair Autumn with light hair can be overwhelmed by some of the bright, clear\r\ncolors such as orange and orange-red, so the fair Autumn man should reserve these for use in stripes and prints (see Stephen, p. 34). This is the Autumn man\r\nwho just missed being a Spring, but who needs more muted colors than the ones\r\nin the Spring chart. Most dark-skinned Autumns will wear the more vivid colors\r\nbetter than beige, khaki, olive, or grayed greens (see Addison, p. 34 and Richard,\r\np. 35). Autumns can be divided into three categories: the true Autumn, who wears\r\nall the colors equally well; the muted Autumn (usually light-haired), who wears\r\nthe more subtle and muted colors best; and the strong Autumn (usually dark\u0002haired or brightly redheaded), who wears the dark and vivid colors best.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/71\r\nBusiness Colors\r\nAutumn colors do not fit the corporate mold. If you work in a business where\r\nthe usual navies and grays are standard, you will have to shop more carefully.\r\nMarine navy is hard to find, though you may be able to find it through a tailor\r\nand have a suit custom-made. If you must compromise on your navy, remember\r\nto keep your tie and shirt in your season. You have a large selection of browns.\r\nMedium browns are highly acceptable for business wear and come in beautiful\r\nfabrics, especially in subtle patterns. For a larger selection than off the racks, go\r\nto your favorite men's store and look at the swatches in the books used for selecting\r\ncustom-made suits. Your palette does not have gray. Use grayed browns to achieve\r\nthe same look. A charcoaJ brown suit has a very similar look to a charcoal gray,\r\nand is especially powerful when coupled with a dark red tie from your palette.\r\nSubtle business tweeds look especially good on you, and they favor your colors\r\n—\r\nbrowns and greens. A little gray mixed in won't hurt, as long as the overall effect\r\nis yours. (How to tell? If it blends with your shirt and tie, it's yours.) Autumns\r\nare the lucky ones who get all the great tan suits in summertime. In addition,\r\nyou'll find greens and bronzes in summerweight suits.\r\nBusiness shirt colors are also harder for the Autumn man to find. Try to find\r\noyster white. You can also wear Summer's soft white or Spring's ivory, but oyster\r\nwill be your best. (I know one Autumn who dipped his white shirt in weak tea.\r\nIt worked!) Your beige, buff, and light periwinkle are good business colors, and\r\nin some work environments you can wear peach and grayed green. Be careful\r\nwhen you are shopping for a periwinkle blue dress shirt not to buy powder blue\r\nby accident. Periwinkle has more violet in it and is much more flattering; powder\r\nblue will make your face look pale. You can easily see the difference when you\r\nshop, as powder blue will clash with the periwinkle of your chart or swatch.\r\nReds and navies are the favorite business ties. Be sure you select your warm\r\nreds and not the blue-toned reds or burgundies. A dark, muted bittersweet or brownish red is your best. A brighter red is okay if it is used as a background for\r\na print. Use navy only as an accent, since it's hard to find your Autumn shade.\r\nExperiment with browns, periwinkles, rust, and even your darker greens. All are acceptable for business.\r\nA trenchcoat for you is no problem to find, as most traditional coats are in your\r\ntans.\r\n72 COLOR FOR MEN*\r\nSportswear Colors\r\nIn country, elegant or casual clothes. Autumn has the easiest shopping of all the seasons. Your colors are readily available, and the Autumn palette lends itself beautifully to sporty attire. In fact, the tans and khakis that are every man's ideal\r\nlook good only on Autumns, so you can console yourself when you are searching\r\nharder to buy business clothes. You are dynamite in a rich brown tweed sport\r\ncoat with texture, and if you are blond or honey-haired, you will shine in a camel\r\njacket. Camel is not as good as a darker color on the brunette Autumns. Wear lots\r\nof leather and leather trim in any of your browns. A pair of brown or tan trousers\r\nwill go with everything in your palette.\r\nThe Spring palette is warm and energetic. The Spring man's colors are friendly\r\nand extroverted, as are most Spring personalities. You do not wear dark or heavy\r\ncolors well, so strive for medium-dark to light shades. All your colors must be\r\nclear, which means they look pure and clean. Avoid muted (grayed down) colors,\r\nas you will look washed out in them.\r\nSPRING\r\nWhen you shop, think: warm\r\nYELLOW L NDERTONES\r\nCLEAR\r\nLIGHT TO BRIGHT\r\nALIVE\r\nTHE SPRING PALETTE\r\nIvory (White) The Spring man's best white is ivory, a creamy white.\r\nHe may also wear Summer's soft white, but not Winter's\r\npure white, which will make him look pale.\r\n(Black) Spring has no black, as it overpowers his coloring.\r\nGray Your grays must be clear and warm (yellow undertones)\r\nand have a bright, crisp quality. Even in wintertime you\r\nshould avoid dark grays. Light grays are your very best.\r\nA medium gray will look darkish on you because of your\r\nlight coloring.\r\n(Text continues on p. 81.\r\nJ\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/73\r\nWINTER FORMAL\r\nWith the Color for Men System, you have an automatically coordinated wardrobe, with fewer clothes, but more versatility. Here, the Winter man's navy semi-solid suit is shown with seven shirt and tie com\u0002binations. The four icy shirts are unique to the Winter palette: icy violet, icy gray, icy blue, and icy pink.\r\n74/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nWINTER CASUAL\r\nThis gray, black, and white herringbone sport coat and charcoal gray slacks go with almost every color\r\nin the Winter man's palette. The Winter man's sportswear can be subtle or colorful, according to his personality.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/75\r\nSUMMER FORMAL\r\nLook at the variety the Summer man can have with just one suit. This charcoal gray and blue semi\u0002solid suit goes easily with seven different color shirts and ties from his palette for seven totally different looks (and more!).\r\n76/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nA beautiful gray-blue sport coat, a sampling of shirts in stripes, plaids, and checks from his palette, a couple of ties, some brightly colored polos and a pair of navy slacks give the Summer man an exciting\r\nwardrobe of casual to dressy sportswear.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/77\r\nAUTUMN FORMAL\r\nThis rich charcoal brown is Autumn's \"power\" suit. It complements the Autumn man's coloring and\r\nharmonizes beautifully with the shirt colors. Notice how he can bring many colors into his shirts and\r\nties— blue, peach, buff, beige, red, tan, olive, and rust, to go with one suit.\r\n78/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nAUTUMN CASUAL\r\nBy choosing a brown tweed sport coat with multi-colored flecks, the Autumn man can have a variety\r\nof colorful, but harmonious looks. All the colors from his palette go together because all have a warm\r\nundertone. Autumn's sportswear has a rich and elegant look.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/79\r\nSPRING FORMAL\r\nA camel-colored suit on a Spring man is elegant and versatile. He can combine it with shirts of ivory,\r\nbuff, and beige for a conservative look or with yellow, peach, and warm pink for more color. The\r\nSpring color chart provides many tie colors that work well with this suit.\r\n80/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSPRING CASUAL\r\nSpring has a wonderful array of colors for sportswear. With this golden brown sport coat and pants,\r\nhe can wear any color shirt from his palette. For dressy sportswear, his jacket will go beautifully with\r\nthe formal shirts. For casual wear, he combines it with colorful sweaters, polos, plaids, and stripes.\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/81\r\nBlue Your most flattering navy is a light, bright one. The next\r\nbest is a darker but still bright and clear navy. Your other\r\nblues range from a light true blue to periwinkle blues,\r\nwhich are blues with a violet tone. Your aquas and tur- quoises are plentiful, ranging from medium to bright. A\r\nlight clear blue is good on a Spring man. Avoid any blue\r\nthat is too pale or powdered. You look best in blues with\r\ndepth or brightness.\r\nBrown and Beige Your beiges and browns range from ivory to clear warm\r\nbeige to golden tan, camel, medium golden brown, and\r\nchocolate brown. You do not wear dark browns or the\r\ngrayed coffee browns. Be sure to avoid wearing any\r\nmuted or muddy tans, such as khaki, near your face. You\r\ncan wear khaki in pants.\r\nGold and Yellow Your gold is light and clear. Buff and chamois colors are wonderful for you, as is bright golden yellow.\r\nRed The Spring man's reds are either orange-reds or clear\r\nreds. Dark reds are harsh and aging to your face, so they\r\nshould be avoided. Spring may also wear light rust.\r\nGreen Yellow-greens are for you, ranging from pastel to bright.\r\nPink and Peach All shades of peach, apricot, coral, salmon, and warm\r\npink are for you. You don't have to be the least bit careful\r\nwhen choosing clothing in this color family. You wear\r\nthem from light shades to medium and bright ones. Warm\r\npinks are the ones with yellow in them, easy to see when\r\ncompared to blue pink.\r\nOrange Your orange is fairly light, never as bright as Autumn's\r\norange.\r\nViolet Medium violet is your version of purple. Avoid darker\r\npurples; they will look too harsh with a Spring man's\r\ncoloring.\r\nIndividualizing Your Colors\r\nMost Springs have good color in their cheeks and therefore wear all their colors\r\nwell. If you are a very fair, blond Spring, you will find that your brightest yellow\r\nand yellow-green are too strong in a large amount (see Joe, p. 38). If you are a dark-haired Spring, you may find that your camel and palest colors look best\r\nwhen mixed with a more vivid color (see Lowell, p. 38).\r\nBusiness Colors\r\nSpring has the hardest time assembling a business wardrobe because the Spring\r\nman's coloring demands medium to light colors and is easily overpowered by\r\ndark colors. Try to find the brightest, liveliest navy you can. Avoid very grayed\r\nnavies. Your best gray is a light warm gray, usually found in summertime. Medium\r\nwarm gray is as dark as you should go. Bear in mind that because of your lighter\r\ncoloring, a medium gray will look dark on you. Color is relative. (If you must\r\ncompromise on either your navy or your gray suit, be sure you wear a shirt and\r\ntie from your season.) Spring can wear blue suits in lighter shades than navy, as long as the suit looks alive rather than drab. You rarely find a medium goJden\r\nbrown wool suit fabric, but you will find chocolate brown as well as tweeds with\r\ngolden tones. Again, in business suits, you may have to compromise and verge\r\na bit into Autumn's browns—keeping your shirt and tie in your colors, of course. Like Autumn, you may need to have your business suits custom-made to take\r\nadvantage of the wider selection of fabrics. In summertime you will find that some\r\nof the tan suits are clear and warm—just right for you. A cameJ summertime suit\r\nis great, if you can find it in a business style.\r\nBusiness shirts are easy for you to find. Your ivory, light warm beige, huff, and\r\nlight periwinkle blues are excellent for business wear. In addition, you may wear\r\nSummer's soft white (but not Winter's pure white—you'll look pale). Your peach,\r\napricot, and warm pink shirts are acceptable in some work environments, and\r\nthey're great as dress shirts for social wear. Choose a red tie as often as you can. Because your orange-red is so bright, it will be more suitable for business when used as a background for a print. Your\r\nlight clear navy is great too, as is a light true blue or dark periwinkle. Shades of\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/83\r\ngolden tan, camel, or buff are fine for business, as is light rust or even teal. A trenchcoat for you is a bit hard to find because most of the beiges are darkish\r\nand muted. Choose a beige that is light and clear, if possible. Also consider a brightish navy.\r\nSportswear Colors\r\nHere you shine! What man doesn't want a camel sport coat? But you're the one who really looks terrific in it. Your golden browns and tans also appear frequently\r\nin sport coats, both as solids and in tweeds. Sport shirts for you offer wide se- lections in stripes and plaids, and Spring colors abound in brightly colored polo\r\nshirts. Most Springs enjoy their bright colors! A pair of trousers in beige or golden\r\nbrown will go with everything in your palette. A special bonus for Spring is your\r\nperpetually youthful look—more than compensation for the fact that you have\r\nto work harder to assemble a business wardrobe.\r\n84/COLOR FOR MEN % 1O\r\nc/3\r\n>*« 1ou\r\nBCJ oou z—\r\na.73zH<\r\nCO o\r\nasw\r\nC/5\r\nO\r\nC/3\r\n0*hZ 3\r\nCD CD DC\r\n\"5 e\r\nCO CO CQ CO u B\r\ndc DO\r\n\"53 -\r\nWai 23\r\n>> ludi E u\r\njE _c\r\n00 CD—U\r\nCO\r\nCD \"3\r\nDO E\r\nCO aa\r\nu -\r\nDC T3\r\nCD DOc\r\naa cH £ i O\r\nCO E\r\n-S\r\nCD\r\nco 2\r\nDO\r\nO\r\n\"3\r\nCD\r\nCOC\r\nas\r\nDC\r\nCDDO \"S\r\ncai >>\r\nco\r\nEh u\r\nCDa3\r\nCO H\r\nCDDC \"S\r\naa 2 6 ? s\r\nCD\r\nO\r\nr- J3 E DC\r\nCO *J\r\nco—OoZ\r\n43\r\nDC\r\n(-*\r\nu\r\nO co\r\nCD -C 3 u\r\naa\r\ncjw \"3\r\n>> S s 8\r\nCD -C 3 u\r\nCO— 5 c > CD C ~c\r\nCQ\r\nO\r\n\"5 I £ c O - O 05 u 2 o\r\nCOC\r\nCO\r\n«\r\nU\r\nCO oaoZ\r\nCOCo\r\noa\r\nCOO\r\nCD —CD —OU\r\nCD\r\n\"cO \"So so* J= J3 42 U U 2 E—\r\nCOE t & | 2\r\nCDNco—\r\nCQ\r\nCO caoZ\r\nnsc\r\ns- ca CO\r\nCD o\r\nCO CJ O o\r\noc\r\nU o\r\nCO CQOZ\r\naa c\r\nCO Z Z o—\r\nCQ\r\nu\r\nCO —u\r\n_C0 CQ\r\nUNDERSTANDING YOUR COLORS/85\r\nLight\r\nTeal\r\nPeriwinkle\r\nBlues,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nDark\r\nLight\r\nBlue\r\nLight\r\nTrue\r\nBlue\r\nEmerald\r\nTurquoise\r\nClear\r\nAquas,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nBright\r\nMedium\r\nViolet\r\nClear\r\nYellow-Greens,\r\nPastel\r\nto\r\nBright\r\nTeal\r\nPeriwinkle\r\nBlues,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nDeep\r\nTurquoise\r\nNo\r\nPurple\r\nGrayed-Greens,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nDark Yellow-Greens,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nBright\r\nForest\r\nGreen\r\nJade\r\nGreen\r\nBlue-Grayed\r\n(including\r\nDenim)\r\nSky\r\nBlue\r\nPeriwinkle,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nMedium\r\nCadet\r\nBlue\r\nPowder\r\nto\r\nMedium\r\nBlue\r\nPastel\r\nAqua\r\nPlum Soft\r\nFuchsia\r\nMauve,\r\nLight\r\nto\r\nMedium\r\nOrchid\r\nLavender\r\nBlue-Greens,\r\nPastel\r\nto\r\nDeep\r\nSpruce\r\nGreen\r\nTrue\r\nBlue\r\nRoyal\r\nBlue\r\nIcy\r\nBlue\r\nHot\r\nTurquoise\r\nChinese\r\nBlue\r\nIcy\r\nAqua\r\nRoyal\r\nPurple\r\nIcy\r\nViolet\r\nLight\r\nTrue\r\nGreen\r\nTrue\r\nGreen\r\nEmerald\r\nGreen\r\nIcy\r\nGreen\r\nPine\r\nGreen\r\nBlue\r\nTurquoise\r\nPurple\r\nGreen\r\n86/COLOR FOR MEN\r\n»\r\nSPRING Light\r\nOranges\r\nSalmon\r\nPeach/Apricot\r\nBright\r\nCoral\r\nLight\r\nRust\r\nWarm\r\nPastel\r\nPink\r\nCoral\r\nPink\r\nClear\r\nBright\r\nWarm\r\nPink\r\nClear\r\nSalmon\r\nOrange-Reds\r\nClear\r\nBright\r\nRed\r\nNo\r\nBurgundy\r\nLight\r\nClear\r\nGold\r\nBuff\r\nBright\r\nGolden\r\nYellow\r\nAUTUMN\r\nAll\r\nOranges\r\nRust\r\nTerra-Cotta\r\nPeach/Apricot\r\nSalmon\r\nOrange-Reds\r\nBittersweet\r\nRed\r\nDark\r\nTomato\r\nRed\r\nNo\r\nBurgundy\r\nGolds,\r\nLight\r\n(Buff)\r\nto\r\nMedium\r\nMustard\r\nYellow-Gold\r\nSUMMER\r\nNo\r\nOrange\r\nPastel\r\nPinks\r\nRose-Pinks,\r\nMedium\r\nto\r\nDeep\r\nPowder\r\nPink\r\nWatermelon\r\nRed\r\nBlue-Reds Raspberry\r\nBurgundy,\r\nincluding\r\nMaroons\r\nand\r\nCordovans\r\nNo\r\nGold\r\nPale\r\nLemon\r\nYellow\r\nLight\r\nLemon\r\nYellow\r\nWINTER\r\nNo\r\nOrange\r\nShocking\r\nPink\r\nDeep\r\nHot\r\nPink\r\nMagenta\r\nFuchsia\r\nIcy\r\nPink\r\nTrue\r\nRed\r\nBlue-Reds\r\nBright\r\nBurgundy\r\nNo\r\nGold\r\nLemon\r\nYellow\r\nIcy\r\nYellow\r\nOrange Pink Red\r\nBurgundy\r\nGold\r\nYellow\r\nYOUR\r\nCLOTHES,\r\nYOUR\r\nSTYLE\r\n\r\nCHAPTER\r\n6\r\nBUILDING A\r\nWARDROBE:\r\nCONTENT,\r\nCOLOR,\r\nLIFESTYLE\r\nIt's time to put your colors to work and give yourself the pleasure\r\nof a wardrobe that works for you.\r\nIn order to build a wardrobe, you need to start with a foundation. I call this\r\nthe Survival Wardrobe. The Survival Wardrobe is the clothing that every man\r\nneeds to go anywhere and feel and look good. It is simple, well-coordinated, easy\r\nto shop for, and foolproof! When you combine your colors with an organized,\r\nmodular approach, you've got assembling a wardrobe down to a science. Whether\r\nyou are starting to build your wardrobe, correcting your current one, or making\r\na change in lifestyle, the Survival Wardrobe makes sure you'll never be caught\r\nwithout something appropriate to wear.\r\n90/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nTHE SURVIVAL WARDROBE\r\nGetting Started\r\nThe effectiveness of your Survival Wardrobe (and the rest of your wardrobe, once you get beyond the basics) is magnified when every single item is from your own\r\ncolor palette. Because you probably have some wrong colors in your closet to\r\nstart with, your wardrobe will not be completely coordinated overnight. But if you buy only your own colors from now on, you will gradually produce the\r\nmiracle of an automatically coordinated wardrobe.\r\nPhasing out wrong colors can take a few years (those expensive suits!), de\u0002pending on what you currently own and how much you have to spend. In the\r\nmeantime, make your wrong-color suits and pants work by combining them with\r\nshirts and ties from your palette. Get rid of your unflattering shirts and ties, how\u0002ever, if your budget possibly allows. The colors closest to your face count the\r\nmost.\r\nYou may find that there are certain items on the Survival List that you don't\r\nneed. Fine. Cross them off. One word of caution, however. Think twice before\r\ncrossing a suit off your list. It can take days, if not weeks, to buy a suit and have\r\nit properly fitted. Some of my young college-bound clients tell me they have\r\nabsolutely no use for a suit. But I know of at least one young man who had to attend a good friend's impromptu wedding wearing his father's ill-fitting, wrong\u0002color, stodgy old suit. He felt miserable. The secret of the Survival Wardrobe is owning it before you need it. Obviously you will need more than one of certain items, depending on your\r\nlifestyle. We'll talk about quantity at the end of the chapter. For now the object\r\nis to identify the gaps in your wardrobe.\r\nThe Survival List\r\nThe Survival List is summarized on pages 97-98 and includes all the items you\r\nneed to have a wardrobe that can take you anywhere. On the following pages, the\r\nitems are described in more detail. After you read the descriptions, use the list as\r\na shopping guide. Check off each item you already have in your color. This way\r\nyou can easily see what you don't have. If you live in an area of the country where\r\nyou have both hot and cold weather, you'll need to do this twice in order to assess both your wintertime and summertime wardrobes. If you have an item that's\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/91\r\nperfectly wearable but not in the right color, put parentheses around it to indicate\r\nyou'll eventually phase it out. For now it will have to do.\r\nThe Survival Wardrobe\r\nSuit Your survival suit should be a three-piece solid-color neu\u0002tral in a wool or wool blend fabric. The cut should be con\u0002servative—an Ivy League or updated American cut—and\r\nthe suit should fit you to perfection. For maximum ver\u0002satility, choose a dark neutral so the suit will be dressy\r\nenough for a wedding but also appropriate without the vest\r\nfor business or less formal social events. For summertime,\r\nyou might choose a lighter color and certainly a lighter\r\nweight fabric.\r\nSport Coat/ Choose your most flattering neutral in a solid color. Use\r\nBlazer wool blends, corduroy, or ultrasuede for wintertime, and\r\nhopsacks, cotton blends, light-weight wool or linen-look\r\nfabrics for summertime. It's okay to buy a tweed or plaid\r\ninstead of a solid if you feel it's more you, but a patterned\r\nsport coat will be less versatile with your shirts and ties.\r\nSlacks These are your dressy slacks. Buy a solid-color darkish neu\u0002tral in a wool or wool blend for wintertime, and a light to medium shade in a lightweight wool blend or cotton/po\u0002lyester blend for summertime. These pants must go with\r\nyour sport coat and should be either lighter or darker than\r\nthe coat in order to make a good contrast. Winters and Sum\u0002mers will probably buy their grays; Autumns and Springs,\r\ntheir tans and browns. Choose a plain style without pleats\r\nor gimmicks. These slacks can go to work or a party when\r\nworn with a sport coat, or to a football game with a checked\r\nshirt and pullover sweater.\r\nShirt I This is your basic daytime shirt and should be in your sea- son's white. (It's worth the extra effort for Autumns and\r\nSprings to search for their harder-to-find shades of white.\r\nIt really makes a difference!) Choose oxford cloth with a button-down collar or broadcloth with a plain collar, de\u0002pending on your personality. Oxford button-downs are more casual. Summers and Springs could substitute a light\r\nblue shirt in this category.\r\nFor dressier situations, buy a fine broadcloth, plain collar\r\nshirt in white, white on white, or a subtle color from your\r\npalette. If the shirt is colored, make sure it goes with both\r\nthe suit and the sport coat.\r\nYour third shirt is more casual and can be worn with your\r\nsuit (without vest), your sport coat, and your slacks. Choose\r\neither a solid color (oxford button-down is the most casual)\r\nor a subtle check, plaid, or stripe. If your sport coat is pat\u0002terned, you will have to make sure the pattern in this shirt\r\nis compatible, or stick to a solid-colored shirt.\r\nChoose a solid tie in a deep basic color to go with suit, sport\r\ncoat, and all three shirts. If you have bought a patterned\r\nShirt III containing several colors, make sure the solid tie picks up one of the colors in the shirt. When possible, you\r\nshould pick out the tie first and then the patterned shirt to go with it.\r\nThis tie is patterned—a foulard (small repeat pattern), club, or paisley—depending upon your personality. The back\u0002ground of this tie should be the red of your season, or one\r\nof your deeper or brighter basic colors, with the pattern\r\npicking up the color of either your suit or your shirt (or\r\nboth).\r\nYour third tie should be striped. Most men can wear some\r\nform of stripe, bold or subtle, depending upon personality.\r\nSome portion of this tie must pick up the color of your suit\r\nand, ideally, the color of your shirt as well. If stripes are too severe for you, then buy one more tie from the Tie II category.\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/93\r\nBelt Select a leather belt in a dark neutral that harmonizes with\r\nyour season. Winters and Summers should find a silver\u0002toned buckle, as silver is a cool color and looks sharper\r\nwith your palette. Autumns and Springs should choose a gold-toned buckle to harmonize best with your palettes.\r\nBusiness/Dress Depending on your personality, buy either a leather oxford\u0002Shoes type lace-up (with or without wing tip) or a dressy loafer.\r\nChoose a neutral color, preferably the same as your belt. These shoes should go with your suit and slacks above.\r\nDon't forget to buy mid-calf or knee-length dark socks so skin doesn't show when you're sitting down with your legs\r\ncrossed.\r\nCasual Slacks These slacks are casual but not grubby. They can be cords,\r\nchinos, cotton/polyester blends, or even a nice pair of jeans,\r\ndepending upon your lifestyle. You can wear your jeans or cords with your sport coat if you are a casual sort of guy.\r\nIt's still best to buy your first pair of casual slacks in a neutral color.\r\nCasual Shirt For wintertime, choose a turtleneck, a solid or plaid flannel\r\nshirt, a long-sleeved polo, or whatever suits your fancy. For\r\nsummertime, a short-sleeved polo shirt will do fine. Now\r\nyou can have more fun with the color. Because you can wear Shirts I and III with your casual pants, you can afford\r\nto be less conservative with this casual shirt. Most people\r\nneed to have more than one casual shirt, no matter what\r\ntheir lifestyles.\r\nSweater Choose a favorite neutral or basic color to go with your nice\r\nslacks, your casual slacks, and all your shirts. The sweater can be a crewneck, V neck, or cardigan. In summertime you\r\nmay want to skip the sweater, though a cotton knit or light\u0002weight wool is handy for breezy days or cool nights at the\r\nbeach.\r\n94/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nShorts These shorts are not for active sports but rather for com\u0002fortable, presentable wear in hot weather. They can be\r\nshort, mid-thigh, or just above the knee, depending upon\r\nyour personality, your age, and your legs. Buy any neutral\r\nor basic color, or your season's white. A solid is best, but\r\nplaid is okay as long as it goes with the short-sleeved polo\r\ncasual shirt. If the shorts are a solid color, you can wear\r\nthem with Shirt III and roll the sleeves up partway.\r\nCasual Belt Your casual belt may be leather, but it's fine here to have\r\na fabric belt, either plain or striped. If you decide on leather,\r\nchoose a wider belt. Here's a chance to express your per\u0002sonality. Buy a cowboy belt if that's your thing.\r\nCasual Shoes Loafers, Top-Siders, Wallabees, or any casual lace-up will\r\ndo here, depending on your comfort, age, and lifestyle. Ten\u0002nis shoes and boots (Italian or cowboy) fall into this cate- gory. It is possible for some personality types to wear boots\r\nwith their dressy sportswear on social occasions, but never\r\nin a corporate setting (unless you own the corporation).\r\nHackarounds Everyone needs \"old\" clothes to hang around in on week\u0002ends, to paint the garage in, or whatever, and most people\r\nalready have plenty of these. The point is to keep only those\r\nitems that are in your colors. You may be spending 90 per\u0002cent of your casual time in these clothes, so why look awful\r\nat home? T-shirts are inexpensive, so treat yourself to a new\r\none and ditch all your bad ones. Hackarounds, by the way,\r\nare relatively sexy attire in the eyes of many women, and\r\nit's hard to be sexy in the wrong color!\r\nTopcoat Ideally you would buy a wool or cashmere coat in the dress\u0002iest neutral color in your palette. The collar could be\r\ntrimmed in velvet or fur for maximum evening wear. In cold climates, this coat can be worn for business, though\r\nperhaps without the velvet. The lifestyle of most Americans\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/95\r\nhas become increasingly casual during the past decade, so you may find that you can skip this purchase. If you attend\r\na really formal event only once a year, you may prefer to\r\nfreeze while running from your car to the occasion. A top\u0002coat is a major investment, so if you do buy one, choose one in a classic style with no faddish details. You want this\r\ncoat to last.\r\nTrenchcoat The trench-type coat is probably a must for every man. Buy\r\none with a removable lining so you can use it year-round.\r\nIt is a perfect business coat and raincoat, and functions well\r\nenough in the evening, except on really formal occasions.\r\nColor? Either the tan or the navy of your season.\r\nJacket Choose a parka, fur jacket, wool-lined jacket, or peacoat for\r\ncold weather; a windbreaker, sweat jacket, or any light\u0002weight jacket for warmer weather or climates. Choose any\r\ncolor from your palette. A neutral or basic color will go\r\nwith all your clothes, but a brighter color may add some\r\nzip to your life.\r\nCold Weather If you have cold winters, you will need gloves, a muffler,\r\nSurvival and possibly a hat. Buy the gloves and hat in neutrals to go with the coat you wear most often. The muffler can be\r\nsolid or plaid in any color from your palette that makes\r\nyou feel good.\r\nSports/Hobbies If you have a hobby or sport—such as tennis, jogging,\r\nskiing, or swimming—that requires special attire, don't for- get to add these to your own personal survival list. Since\r\nshopping is so painful for some, you might as well pick up\r\nthese needed items while shopping for everything else.\r\nBeing organized keeps you from having to make many trips\r\nto the store.\r\n96/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nPersonal Obviously a man needs underwear for survival, but I am\r\nassuming that these personal items—plus pajamas, robe,\r\nand slippers—are already part of your wardrobe, and get\r\nreplaced from time to time out of sheer necessity. One tip:\r\nHave at least seven sets of underwear so you need to do\r\nlaundry only once a week. If you send your laundry out,\r\nyou'll need a two-week supply.\r\nFinishing Touches\r\nTuxedo I have not included a tuxedo in the Survival List because\r\nmost men rent one on the rare occasion it is needed. If possible, rent a tuxedo in a color from your palette, but if black is the only color acceptable in a given situation, then\r\nat least pick a shirt in the most flattering white or pale color.\r\nAny man whose lifestyle involves formal functions as part\r\nof the routine would be well advised to buy a tux. If you\r\ncan get away with it, buy it in your color: navy for Springs\r\nand Summers, charcoal brown for Autumn. Of course you\r\nlucky Winters will outshine everyone else in black. Springs\r\nwould look best in a light, clear beige, if possible, but some\r\nsituations will require traditional black, or a dark color at best.\r\nAccessories To complete your wardrobe you will need certain acces\u0002sories. Be sure your leather goods, umbrella, pocket hand\u0002kerchief, and other accessories are in colors from your pal\u0002ette. Why blow the harmony of your total look with one\r\noff-key item?\r\nFur When buying fur, choose a color similar to your hair, pref\u0002erably a shade lighter. The cool seasons should avoid red\r\ntones in any fur. Autumns and Springs may wear a golden\u0002or red-toned fur if it blends with their hair.\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/97\r\nJewelry Try to have your watch, rings, cuff links, tie tacks, and any\r\nother jewelry or metals in the hue best for your season. As\r\nwith your belt buckle, choose silver or silver-toned metals\r\nfor Winter and Summer, and gold or gold-toned metals for\r\nAutumn and Spring. Consider changing the buttons on\r\nyour sport coat, especially if you wear jewelry that would\r\nclash. If you are a Winter or Summer and feel you must\r\nwear gold, choose a tone that is subdued and not too yellow.\r\nA bright yellow-gold will clash with everything you wear. Of course your wedding ring stays as is.\r\nTHE SURVIVAL LIST\r\nCheck off each item you already have in your color. Then shop to fill in the blanks.\r\nCold Weather Warm Weather\r\nSuit\r\nSport Coat/Blazer\r\nSlacks\r\nShirt I (basic daytime)\r\nShirt II (more dressy)\r\nShirt III (more casual)\r\nTie I (solid)\r\nTie II (patterned)\r\nTie III (striped)\r\nBelt\r\nBusiness/Dress Shoes\r\n98/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nCold Weather Warm Weather\r\nCasual Slacks\r\nCasual Shirt\r\nSweater\r\nShorts\r\nCasual Belt\r\nCasual Shoes\r\nHackarounds\r\nTopcoat\r\nTrenchcoat\r\nJacket\r\nSports/Hobbies\r\nColors for the Survival Wardrobe\r\nOn the following pages you will find suggested colors for the major purchases on\r\nthe Survival List. These are merely suggestions, showing how well everything\r\ngoes together. Notice that all the shirts go with all the ties, and all shirts and ties\r\ngo with the suit, sport coat, and slacks. Don't try to expand your wardrobe by\r\nmixing your sport coat with the pants from your suit. This is not a good way to stretch your budget, as suit pants usually are cut differently from slacks and are made from different fabrics, even if the colors are compatible.\r\nThe Survival Wardrobe consists mainly of Neutral and Basic colors. In addition,\r\nyou will buy most of these items in solid colors. It may seem boring at first, but\r\nI assure you this approach will give you the most variety from the fewest items\r\nof clothing. As you expand your wardrobe to suit your lifestyle, you can add more\r\ncolors and patterns to your closet.\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/99\r\nWINTER\r\nSample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe\r\nCold Weather Warm Weather\r\nSuit Charcoal gray Navy\r\nopon LjOai/Didzt3r Navy Navy\r\nSlacks Charcoal gray Taupe\r\nShirt I (basic daytime) Pure white (oxford) White\r\nShirt II (more dressy) Pure white (broadcloth) Icy Pink\r\nShirt III (more casual) White with blue stripe White with gray stripe\r\nTip T fsolidl Rlup-rpd Bright hureundv\r\nTie II (patterned) Navy with white mini\u0002dot\r\nNavy with pink and gray\r\nmotif\r\nTip 11C 111 TIT ftjtrinpHl ^olllLJCUJ Rriolit uiitiiii nivj ui rcn i ti ui nii r\\uvy , navv iiav y, and white\r\nf^rfiv v_ri d y witti Willi nflw iiuvy, wnitp vviiiLCj\r\nand blue-red\r\nBelt Black Black\r\nBusiness/Dress Shoes Black Black\r\nCasual Slacks Navy Taupe\r\nCasual Shirt Burgundy, navy, gray\r\nplaid\r\nEmerald green\r\nSweater Burgundy Lemon yellow\r\nCasual Belt Navy (fabric) Dark taupe (fabric)\r\nCasual Shoes Cordovan Cordovan\r\nTopcoat Navy Not applicable\r\nTrenchcoat Gray Gray\r\nJacket Navy True blue\r\n100/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSUMMER\r\nSample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe\r\nCold Weather Warm Weather\r\nSuit Charcoal gray Grayed navy\r\nSport Coat/Blazer Grayed navy Medium blue (linen)\r\nSlacks Charcoal gray Navy\r\nShirt I (basic daytime) Blue (oxford) Soft white (oxford)\r\nshirt IT fmnro riT*occ\\fl Ollll I 11 ^lllUle Ulcabyj OUll WllllfcJ oon wnue\r\n011111 ^nirt ill TTT fmnrp ^iiiuit; p^jciiall i^doUdlj oKy huiucIIP 3(!ii(ffl 1A7M 1 fp wiiiitJ stripe\r\n**f~wl lArn ito lArltrl npoir OUil Wllllt! Willi gidy,\r\nnavy, or burgundy\r\nstripe\r\nlie 1 [bUHUJ Durguiiuy ueep rose\r\nlie 11 ipdllcl lleU J\r\n\\ \\ 'if ( 1 1\" ? > 1 It 1 / Ml I'lA / J i ' - 1 t 1 1 ' ' !• i\r\n' VV dlel IllclUil Icll Willi SKy\r\nblue and gray motif\r\niNdvy wiiii grdy diiu\r\nwhite motif\r\nTie III (striped) Rose and light blue-gray Mauve with navy and\r\nwhite\r\nBelt Black (or cordovan) Black (or cordovan)\r\nBusiness/Dress Shoes Black (or cordovan) Black (or cordovan)\r\nCasual Slacks Grayed blue Rose-beige\r\nCasual Shirt Rose-pink Medium blue-green\r\nSweater Burgundy Light lemon yellow\r\nCasual Belt Navy (fabric) Beige (fabric)\r\nCasual Shoes Cordovan Cordovan (or Rose\u0002brown)\r\nTopcoat Charcoal blue-gray Not applicable\r\nTrenchcoat Grayed navy Grayed navy\r\nJacket Light blue-gray Grayed blue\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/101\r\nAUTUMN\r\nSample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe\r\nCold Weather Warm Weather\r\nSuit Charcoal brown Olive\r\nopon Lioat/Diazer Camel Liignx tan\r\nSlacks Dark chocolate brown Coffee\r\nShirt I (basic daytime) Warm beige Buff\r\nShirt II (more dressy) Oyster white Oyster white\r\nShirt III (more casual) Peach/apricot Light grayed green\r\nTie I (solid) KUSt Bittersweet red\r\nTie II (patterned) Rust, camel, and oyster\r\npaisley\r\nOlive with tan and red\r\nmotif\r\nTie III (striped) Brown with rust and\r\noyster stripes\r\nBrown, camel, and olive\r\nBelt Brown Brown\r\nd\r\nL< i i pi n /~\\ cell Irnpo W r~i /\"> r\\ o usmess/uress onoes orown U T> /\"^V TAT tjrown\r\nCasual Slacks Coffee Khaki\r\nCasual Shirt Teal blue Salmon\r\nSweater Warm beige Oyster\r\nCasual Belt Tan (fabric) Tan (fabric)\r\nCasual Shoes Cordovan Tan\r\nTopcoat Camel Not applicable\r\nTrenchcoat Khaki Khaki\r\nJacket Mahogany Coffee\r\n102/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSPRING\r\nSample Colors for the Survival Wardrobe\r\nLola Weather TAT \\A7 xl_ Warm Weather\r\nSuit Bright navy Light warm beige\r\nSport Coat/Blazer Camel Light clear navy\r\nSlacks Medium golden brown Light tan/camel\r\nShirt I (basic daytime) Ivory (oxford) Light periwinkle blue\r\nShirt II (more dressy) Ivory (broadcloth) Ivory\r\nShirt III (more casual) Soft white with light rust\r\nstripe\r\nWarm pastel pink\r\nT'ip llC T1 fcolinl [oUHU J T.Lilgll lohtL niet I Uol IMdvy [lllUol UlcllLl Willi\r\nblazer)\r\nTie II (patterned) Orange-red with navy\r\nand ivory motif\r\nClear bright red with\r\nbeige and periwinkle\r\nmotif\r\nTie III (striped) Navy, rust, ivory, and\r\ncamel\r\nNavy, clear red, ivory,\r\ntan\r\nBelt Cordovan Cordovan\r\nBusiness/Dress Shoes LiOruovan Cordovan\r\nCasual Slacks Light clear navy Light warm beige\r\nCasual Shirt Light clear gold Peach\r\nSweater Apricot Light periwinkle blue\r\nCasual Belt Navy (fabric) Tan (fabric)\r\nCasual Shoes Brown Tan\r\nTopcoat Camel Not applicable\r\nTrenchcoat Light warm beige Light warm beige\r\nJacket Medium golden brown Light true blue\r\nBUILDING A WARDROBE/103\r\nBEYOND SURVIVAL: YOUR LIFESTYLE\r\nAfter you have the essentials, you will need to expand certain categories according\r\nto your lifestyle. The Survival Wardrobe applies to any man, but your own sit- uation determines what you need to be comfortably outfitted beyond survival.\r\nFor the sake of determining quantity, I've identified four lifestyles:\r\n1. The Corporate Man: Suit Every Day\r\n2. The Professional Man: Suit or Sport Coat Every Day\r\n3. The Casual Man\r\n4. The Man in Uniform\r\nSee what quantity of each item you need to keep your life running smoothly, and\r\nwrite the numbers on your Survival List, which then becomes your ideal shopping\r\nguide.\r\nThe Corporate Man: Suit Every Day\r\nYou are the man whose job requires you to wear a suit to work every\r\nday. You'll need six suits (at least three solids), twelve shirts, and ten\r\nto fifteen ties, plus one or two sport coats and one or two slacks for\r\nsocial wear. The suit-every-day man often has a big gap in his\r\nwardrobe—plenty of suits, a pair of jeans, but nothing in between. Buy\r\ntwo pairs of nice casual slacks and at least four casual shirts. And\r\ndon't forget some casual shoes to augment your wing tips and your\r\nsneakers. You're used to being dressed up all the time, so pay special\r\nattention to completing your casual wardrobe.\r\nThe Professional Man: Suit or Sport Coat Every Day\r\nYour job allows you the flexibility of wearing either a suit or a sport\r\ncoat to work. Buy three suits (two solids), three sport coats, three pairs\r\nof slacks, twelve shirts and ten to fifteen ties. Like the corporate man,\r\nyou need at least two pairs of casual slacks, four casual shirts, and a pair of casual shoes for weekends or evenings that require more than a pair of jeans.\r\n104/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThe Casual Man\r\nYou may be retired or you may have a job that calls for casual clothes\r\nevery day. Buy six pairs of casual slacks (at least half should be\r\nwashable), twelve casual shirts, and two pairs of casual shoes. If your\r\njob or daily life allows for jeans and T-shirts, include them in the\r\ncasual wear suggested. Since you're wearing these every day, be sure they are \"new\" and clean. There's a big difference between clean,\r\npressed jeans and ratty jeans and T-shirts with holes in them. To\r\ncomplete your wardrobe, add one suit (solid color) for dress, two sport\r\ncoats and two slacks for social wear, and six shirts and six to ten ties\r\nfor both.\r\nThe Man in Uniform\r\nYou may be in the military or you may work somewhere that requires a uniform. Whatever the case, your work clothes are taken care of and\r\nyou probably ought to own one clean uniform for each day of the\r\nweek. You need one solid-color suit for dressy occasions and one or two sport coats and slacks for social events. In addition to your jeans,\r\nT-shirts, and other hackarounds, add two casual slacks, four casual\r\nshirts, and a pair of nice casual shoes to complete your off-hours\r\nwardrobe. If you \"retire\" from your uniformed job, you will need to reevaluate your quantities according to your new lifestyle. It's easy.\r\nJust pick another category and follow the guidelines for it.\r\nNow that you know what you really need, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to shop. Remember, shopping ahead of need is the secret to a successful ward\u0002robe—and an organized life! Whatever your lifestyle, with a plan and your color\r\npalette, you can now fill the gaps in your wardrobe and have clothes that really\r\nwork for you.\r\n7/\r\nCHAPTER\r\nYOUR BODY\r\nPROPORTIONS\r\nBefore shopping for a suit, sport coat, slacks, or shirt, you need to be aware of the overall proportions of your body. Are your arms short? Are you\r\nhigh-waisted? Are your shoulders and hips in proportion? Once you understand\r\nyour body, you can make cut, style, and fit work for you to disguise your flaws\r\nand create a balanced look.\r\nSince few of us are perfectly proportioned, our goal is to create the illusion of\r\nperfection. Basic to the illusion is a key principle of design: the eye rests where\r\na line stops. By modifying the lines of your clothes, you can, for example, visually\r\nlengthen short legs, diminish a prominent seat, or widen narrow shoulders. A\r\ngood tailor can make your clothes fit, but only you—by choosing your apparel\r\nintelligently—can make line, style, and cut work to your best advantage.\r\nDETERMINING YOUR PROPORTIONS\r\nStand in front of a full-length mirror so you can examine your overall body har\u0002mony. Look at yourself objectively. You may wish to have a tape measure handy\r\nand a friend to help you.\r\nOn the next page is a Body Checklist showing you the key areas of your body\r\nthat affect your overall look. After you have read the short explanations that\r\nfollow, measure and study yourself, then fill in the chart.\r\n106/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nBODY CHECKLIST\r\nHpight- tall, average, short\r\nWmght: hpavy, averajge, thin\r\nShoulder/hip proportion: shou ders much wider than hips\r\ngood proportion\r\nhips even with or wider than shoulders\r\nSlnpfi nf shoulders: tapered, average, square\r\nOne shoulder higher: yes, no\r\nT.rp length from hip tn flnnr: inches lnng legs\r\nshort legs\r\naverage proportion\r\nWaist- hioh, low, average proportion\r\nNer.k: l nr>g. short, average proportion\r\nArms: l nng, . short, average proportion\r\nOne arm longer: yes, no\r\nUpper hark: straight, round\r\nSeat: prominent, flat, average\r\nHeight/Weight Everyone has a different personal ideal concerning height and\r\nweight. In general, 5 feet 9 inches to 5 feet 11 inches is average;\r\n6 feet and over is tall; 5 feet 8 inches and under is short. In\r\nmany instances, actual weight and height are not as important\r\nas the relationship of the body parts to the whole. However, if you want to appear taller, shorter, heavier, or thinner, there are ways of creating the illusion of a different body size, which we\r\nwill discuss later.\r\nShoulder/Hip\r\nProportion\r\nVisually compare the width of your shoulders to that of your\r\nhips. A man's shoulders are usually wider than his hips. If your\r\nshoulders extend unusually far beyond your hipline, however,\r\nyou may appear top-heavy. You will also look unbalanced if your hips are equal to or wider than your shoulders.\r\n\r\n108/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nShoulder Slope Facing forward, look at the slope of your shoulders. The average\r\nperson has a two-inch drop from the base of the neck to the\r\nouter edge of the shoulder. If you have less than a two-inch\r\ndrop, you have square shoulders: more, and your shoulders are tapered. Check also to see if one shoulder is markedly higher\r\nthan the other.\r\nBODY PROPORTIONS/109\r\nLeg/Torso In a perfectly proportioned body, the legs make up half of the\r\nProportion total height. Measure the length of your leg from hip joint to\r\nfloor. (If you have trouble locating your hip joint, just lift your\r\nleg. Where your trouser breaks at the hip is the joint.) Compare\r\nthe length of your leg to your overall height to determine if your\r\nlegs are short, long, or in proportion. One inch either way is\r\nstill considered average.\r\nWaist/Body First look at your total neight, then look at your waistline (when\r\nProportion belted). Does your waist seem especially high or low, or does\r\nit strike a pleasing proportion to your height? Many people with\r\nlong legs tend to be high-waisted; short legs often contribute to a low-waisted look.\r\nBODY PROPORTIONS/111\r\nNeck See if your neck is very short or very long. Anything in between\r\nis not a problem. If you have a double chin, or if your chin or jowls rest against your collar, you need to compensate for your\r\nshort neck. You can also camouflage a very long neck by making\r\nsmall adjustments in collar fit (see Chapter 9, \"Your Shirt\").\r\nArms Your arms are of average length if when they hang loosely at your sides, the bottom knuckle of your fist is parallel to your\r\ncrotch. Check also to see if one arm is longer than the other.\r\nUpper Back Stand sideways to the mirror and check the profile of your\r\nshoulders and upper back. Is your posture relatively straight, or is your upper back rounded with your shoulders tilted for\u0002ward?\r\nSeat While standing sideways to the mirror, check the profile of your\r\nseat. Especially flat or prominent buttocks require special at- tention.\r\nSOLUTIONS\r\nNow that you know which areas of your body require special consideration, it's time to focus on the clothing lines and details that will bring your total look in\r\nbalance. Some of this information will be covered in greater detail later in this\r\nbook, but here's an introduction to how to achieve a perfectly balanced look for\r\nyour body.\r\nHeight/ Weight\r\nIf you want to look taller, add vertical lines. Consider a three-button suit made\r\nof solid or pinstriped material rather than plaid or tweed fabric, which tends to add width. In casual wear, you are best in a monochromatic look—perhaps navy\r\npants with navy sweater. A sport coat, sweater, or shirt that contrasts sharply\r\nwith your trousers will simply cut you in half. Corduroy, with its vertical ribs,\r\nis a good choice in casual pants. To continue an unbroken line to the floor, wear\r\nyour pants uncuffed with only the slightest break in the pant leg, and match or\r\nat least blend shoe and trouser color.\r\n112/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nIf you are too thin, you can look\r\nheavier with clothes that add bulk and\r\nmake use of horizontal lines. Create\r\nwidth in suits by adding some pad\u0002ding to the shoulders and by choosing\r\ntweeds and plaids. Avoid three-button\r\nsuits and coats with heavy waist\r\nsuppression, which are slimming. If the look suits you, consider wearing\r\nwidely spaced double rear vents and\r\na double-breasted coat. Rugby shirts\r\nand sweaters with horizontal stripes are excellent choices for leisure wear. You are the lucky individual who can wear layers of clothing. Try a polo\r\nshirt or turtleneck under your regular\r\nsport shirt.\r\nIf you want to minimize your height,\r\nhorizontal lines can divide the length\r\nof your body into segments and make\r\nyou appear shorter. A dark sport coat\r\nor sweater with lighter pants is an ex\u0002cellent way to make yourself look\r\nshorter. In suits and sport coats, pat\u0002terns such as glen plaids are better\r\nthan solids. Pants with cuffs and\r\nprominent breaks can also remove\r\ninches. Consider wide belts and large\r\nbuckles or colorful cloth belts with\r\ncasual wear to provide a strong hori\u0002zontal line.\r\nBODY PROPORTIONS/113\r\nTo appear slimmer, choose vertical\r\nlines that lengthen and narrow your\r\nbody. Suits with vertical stripes or in\r\nsolid fabrics are excellent choices.\r\nAvoid wide double-breasted suits as well as those with natural shoulders\r\nand no waist suppression. (A double\u0002breasted suit with buttons placed\r\ncloser together can be slimming.) A\r\ncrisp shoulder line and vertical darts\r\nin your suits will remove a few\r\npounds. Heavy tweeds and bulky\r\nhandmade sweaters will add pounds,\r\nbut trim sweaters with set-in sleeves\r\nand V necks will make you look slim-\r\n114/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nShoulder/Hip Proportion\r\nIf your shoulders are too broad for your hips, you need to add dimension below\r\nthe waist. Suit coats with pocket flaps and casual jackets with patch pockets will\r\nadd needed width. Avoid peaked and extremely wide lapels, which tend to em\u0002phasize shoulder width. When selecting pants, look for pleats, on-seam pockets,\r\nand bulky or heavy fabrics. Trim sweaters with raglan sleeves will also reduce\r\napparent shoulder width and help create a more balanced look in casual wear. Avoid boat-neck pullovers, as this wide, shallow neckline increases apparent\r\nshoulder width.\r\nill eflH i\\ ' « 1\r\nt <il\\W' •'til iff\r\nRaglan sleeves w Boat neck\r\nBODY PROPORTIONS/115\r\nIf you have hips that are equal to or wider than your shoulders, emphasize the\r\nshoulder and chest area. Add some padding to the shoulders of your suits. When\r\npossible, select lapels that point upward and outward. Avoid pants with pleats\r\nand on-seam pockets; slant pockets produce a trimmer look. To add width to the\r\nshoulders, wear sweaters and shirts with set-in sleeves, and fit them so that the\r\nshoulder seams extend slightly beyond your natural shoulder. In casual wear,\r\ndraw attention upward by combining brightly colored shirts and sweaters with\r\ndark slacks. Sweaters and knit shirts with horizontal stripes across the chest and\r\nshoulders are ideal.\r\nShoulder Slope\r\nIf your shoulders are tapered, you can make them appear more squarish by slightly\r\npadding suit shoulders and by choosing, when possible, lapels that point upward.\r\nIn sweaters and knit shirts, set-in rather than raglan sleeves will add definition\r\nto your shoulders.\r\nSo/ten the angles of very square shoulders by avoiding padding. Suits and sport\r\ncoats with natural shoulders are excellent choices. Extremes of lapel width\r\n—\r\neither wide or narrow—tend to emphasize the shoulder area and call attention\r\nto shoulder shape. Lapels or shirt collars that point somewhat downward will\r\nalso divert attention away from very square shoulders. In sweaters and knit shirts,\r\nraglan sleeves and V necks may help to create the illusion of a more tapered\r\nshoulder line.\r\nLeg/Torso Proportion\r\nTo visually shorten extra-Jong iegs, wear pants with cuffs and a prominent break.\r\nWearing a slightly longer suit jacket and selecting slacks with a lower rise (the\r\ndistance from crotch to waistband) may also help diminish apparent leg length.\r\nTwo-button or single-button jackets offer your best proportions in suits or sport\r\ncoats. Wear your belts as low as possible, and choose contrasting colors for your\r\nshirts and pants.\r\nIf your legs are short, you can add length by avoiding cuffs and by hemming\r\npants at a length that produces only a slight break in the pants leg over the shoe.\r\nWearing the crotch of your pants as high as is comfortable and shortening your\r\nsuit jackets slightly will also help create the illusion of longer legs. A three-button\r\nsuit adds apparent length to your legs as well.\r\n\r\nBODY PROPORTIONS/117\r\nWaist/Body Proportion\r\nA high waist can be camouflaged by pants with a low rise, because the belt will\r\nsit low on your waist. Sweaters worn over pants, and slightly longer suit jackets\r\nwill also help create the illusion of a lower waistline. However, pleated pants\r\nshould be avoided, as they draw unwanted attention to a high waistline. Casual\r\nbelts that match or blend with shirt color lengthen the upper body.\r\nA low waist can be made to appear higher by wearing pants that have a high\r\nrise. Be careful not to make the rise too high, however, as this is not a masculine\r\nlook. Wide waistbands and belts that match trousers in color can also visually\r\nraise the waist. Wearing knit shirts or perhaps even sweaters tucked into the\r\nwaistband of the pants will also raise the midline. (See illustration on p. 118)\r\nNeck\r\nTo disguise a long neck, a good tailor can raise jacket collars. Look for shirt collars\r\nthat fit high on the neck. Many button-downs fall into this category. Crewneck\r\nsweaters and turtleneck shirts are good choices for your casual wardrobe. Avoid\r\nopen V necks.\r\nA short neck will appear longer when you wear V-neck sweaters and open\r\ncollared shirts. In dress shirts, choose styles with low fitting collars, or have your\r\ncollars lowered by a tailor. Suits and topcoats will also have to be specially altered\r\nto lower the collar. Avoid crewnecks and turtlenecks.\r\nArms\r\nIf you have short arms, lengthen suit-jacket sleeves slightly so that a bit less than\r\nthe usual half inch of shirt cuff shows. Also, reduce the distance between the\r\nhem of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket by shortening the jacket hem about\r\na quarter of an inch. Suits and sport coats cut with high armholes and raised\r\npadded shoulders visually lengthen arms. Sweaters and knit shirts with raglan\r\nsleeves may also lengthen arms by providing an unbroken line from collar to cuff.\r\nIf you have long arms, allow a bit more shirt cuff to show than the usual half\r\ninch. Any cuff visually shortens your arm. Lengthen your jacket a quarter to a\r\nhalf inch. Elbow patches on sportswear may also help to break up a long arm\r\nline. In casual wear, rugby shirts and sweaters with stripe? on the upper arms\r\nhelp to create balance.\r\nBelts that match or blend with shirt color lengthen the upper body, while belts that match trousers raise the\r\nwaist.\r\nBODY PROPORTIONS/119\r\nUpper Back\r\nWith a rounded back, you do best to select suits in solid colors, since tailoring\r\nthe jacket to fit your back often distorts the fabric's pattern at the center back\r\nseam, accentuating the roundness. (Pinstripes that have been bowed into a barrel\r\nshape greatly emphasize a round back.) Sweaters with horizontal stripes help to\r\ncamouflage your posture, but collarless shirts make it appear more pronounced.\r\nSeat\r\nIf you have a prominent seat, compensate by selecting suit jackets with a single\r\ncenter vent. If you need a high vent to provide extra room, make sure it lies flat. Wearing sweaters out over your trousers will create a smooth line from shoulder\r\nto seat. Be careful not to let your sweater ride up in the back, making you look\r\nswaybacked.\r\nIf your seat is flat, wear jackets with moderate waist suppression and double\r\nvents. Trousers must fit flawlessly in the rise (front and back) to avoid a droopy\r\nlook. For casual pants, corduroys and chinos are better than tight jeans.\r\nA proportioned, finished appearance is vital if you are to stride comfortably and\r\nconfidently through your business day. Now that you know your own body pro\u0002portions and how to work with them to create a well-balanced look, let's examine\r\nin detail the next essential aspect of being a well-dressed man: the expertly fitted\r\nsuit.\r\noo\r\nCHAPTER\r\ni\r\nYOUR SUIT: SIZE,\r\nCUT, FIT, AND\r\nQUALITY\r\nI asked a married couple I know what each would do if given only\r\nfive hundred dollars to shop for an entire season's wardrobe. The wife admitted\r\nshe would select several blouses, skirts, and dresses to have a choice of things to wear, even if she had to compromise on quality to do so. The husband said he\r\nwould buy one good suit and wear it every day if necessary.\r\nFor most men a suit represents a major investment. A quality suit makes a strong\r\nstatement about you—your lifestyle, personal credibility, career goals. Choosing\r\na suit in your seasonal palette is only half the mission. In addition, the suit must\r\nfit properly.\r\nClothes can't make the man unless they fit the man! As we've learned, some\r\nmen are broad-shouldered and narrow-hipped, others have a long line that doesn't\r\nvary much from head to toe, while others are long-legged, high-waisted, or square\u0002shouldered. Depending on your build, you'll need a suit cut to fit your body type\r\nin order to be well dressed.\r\nUnderstanding how to fit your body is not difficult. After reading this chapter,\r\nyou'll be able to guide salesmen and tailors, telling them how you want your suit\r\nfitted, and why.\r\nYOUR SUIT/121\r\nDETERMINING YOUR SUIT SIZE\r\nReady-to-wear suits come in chest sizes 36 to 50 with pant waists sized six or seven inches smaller. A size 40 suit will come with size 33 or 34 pants, for ex- ample. Suits are also sized in short, regular, long, and extra long.\r\nWhen shopping for a suit, have the salesperson determine your jacket size by\r\nmeasuring around your chest at its widest point (usually under your armpits).\r\nThis measurement tells you your jacket size. If your arms are heavy or muscular\r\nand out of proportion to your chest, you will probably need to buy a bigger size.\r\nNext, measure your waist—over a shirt, but not over trousers—at the point\r\nwhere you normally wear a belt, usually one or two inches below your natural\r\nwaist. In determining your suit size, always fit the jacket first, for it is easier and\r\nless expensive to alter pants and vests than it is to adjust a jacket.\r\nRecheck your size each year. Don't keep asking for the same size out of habit.\r\nAs you gain or lose weight or grow older and gravity takes its toll, your suit size\r\nwill change.\r\nFiguring out whether you need a short, a regular, or a long takes a bit of care. Generally, shorts fit men who are under 5 feet 8 inches, regulars are for men\r\n5 feet 8 inches to 6 feet, longs are for men 6 feet to 6 feet 4 inches, and extra longs\r\nare for men taller than 6 feet 4 inches. Shorts, regulars, longs, and extra longs\r\nvary in every dimension, including jacket length, sleeve length, vest length, and\r\nrise.Your height is not the only factor to consider when deciding whether you need\r\na short, regular, long, or extra long. Arm length and the relationship between torso\r\nand leg length are just as important. A man who is 5 feet 7 inches may need a regular suit if his torso and arms are long. Men on the borderline between two\r\nsizes need to try on several suits and compare fit according to the principles\r\npresented later in this chapter.\r\nDETERMINING WHICH CUT IS REST FOR YOU\r\nSize is one factor and cut is another. There are three basic cuts of suits, and in\r\norder to get the best fit, you should match the cut of the suit to your body build.\r\nThe Ivy League Suit\r\nThis style, made famous by Brooks Brothers, is also known as the sack suit. It has no darts (extra vertical seams) to give shape to the jacket, but rather has a natural, untapered waistline. The chest width is only four to six inches greater\r\nthan the waist. The jacket has un-padded shoulders, loosely fitted armholes, and\r\na single vent in back. The trousers are fairly full and straight, with only a one- inch reduction in circumference from knee to ankle.\r\nThe Ivy League suit is best for the man who has a sturdy build, whether he's\r\nlarge, athletic, or simply on the portly side.\r\nYOUR SUIT/123\r\nThe Updated American Suit\r\nThis cut is becoming the most popular style. Unlike the traditional Ivy League\r\nsuit, the updated American suit has a slightly suppressed waist with added ver\u0002tical seams in the jacket to give shape and style. The lightly padded shoulders\r\nand crisper line are flattering to many body types. This cut also has a higher\r\narmhole and smaller waistline in proportion to the shoulders. The drop from chest\r\nto waist is six to seven inches. It may have a single or double vent. Like the Ivy\r\nLeague cut, the pants hang straight from the knee, though the circumference of\r\nthe pants legs is usually smaller than that of Ivy League cut trousers.\r\nThe updated American suit is best for the slimmer man. Portly or highly mus\u0002cular thick men can't fit into this style comfortably.\r\n124/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThe European Suit\r\nA high-fashion look, with a seven-inch drop from chest width to waist width,\r\nthis suit is appropriate for slender men who work in creative professions. This\r\nis not a broker's suit! However, the squared shoulders, high armholes, double\u0002vented jacket, and tapered pants do have elegance.\r\nAsk the salesperson how the suits in his store are cut, and don't waste your\r\ntime trying on styles that are inappropriate for you. At Brooks Brothers, my broad\u0002shouldered, narrow-hipped client found that he could not fit into any of their\r\nsuits, even their slimmer ones. The salesperson was kind enough to refer him to another store where suits are cut in an updated American style. Perfect!\r\nYOUR SUIT/125\r\nFIT\r\nNow that you know your size and have determined the cut which best fits your\r\nbuild and lifestyle, you need to have your suit carefully fitted. Every good men's\r\nclothier has a professional tailor, though you may prefer to use one who runs his\r\nown shop. Knowing exactly how your suit should fit is the key to communicating\r\neffectively with the tailor.\r\nStart out by dressing appropriately when you are shopping for a suit or having one fitted. Wear a suit so you will have on a shirt, a tie, and the proper shoes\r\nwhen trying on the new suit. Add all the usual things you carry in your pockets\r\nso the tailor can judge the fit correctly.\r\nJacket\r\nShoulders The shoulders of a jacket are crucial to a good fit. Check this area first to determine if the proper suit size has been chosen.\r\nThe seam that joins the sleeve to the jacket should rest at the\r\nnatural edge of your shoulder, neither hanging over nor being\r\nstretched by your arms. (If you have very large arms you may\r\nhave to have your suits custom-made.)\r\nBefore they will reset sleeves to adjust shoulder width, tailors\r\ngenerally recommend trying another jacket size and making\r\nother adjustments. Don't be surprised if you have to try on sev\u0002eral suits. Another size or a suit from a different manufacturer\r\nmay make a great deal of difference. If your shoulders are ta- pered, causing the jacket to bunch due to excess fabric, you can add shoulder pads to correct the problem. The pads will not\r\nonly improve the fit of the jacket but will give your shoulders\r\na more attractive line as well.\r\nChest To check for proper chest fit, reach forward to determine if you\r\ncan move freely. Look at the fabric between your shoulder\r\nblades and make sure it does not pull or wrinkle. Small ad\u0002justments can be made by taking in or letting out the center\r\nback seam of the jacket. If the wrinkles tend to be diagonal, you\r\nprobably have one shoulder higher than the other. Have a small\r\npad built into the lower shoulder.\r\n126/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nCollar too high\r\nt - remove excess\r\n* tabric\r\n4 / A\r\n* yf\r\nCollar too low\r\n/\r\nJ ' $ r\r\n- raise collar\r\n* \"-. 7 at seam\r\nCollar too long\r\n/\r\nF ?\r\n, - shorten where\r\na . -' collar joins lapel\r\n**4 ' A''\r\nCollar Very few men can buy a suit without having the collar raised,\r\nlowered, or shortened. Square or very tapered shoulders; a neck\r\nthat is thin or thick, short or long; and a rounded back all create\r\nspecial problems in collar fit. Look in a three-way mirror. The jacket collar should hug the\r\nback of the neck with a half inch of shirt collar showing above\r\nit. If the shirt is hidden or there is a buckle of excess jacket\r\nfabric just below the suit collar, you need to have the collar\r\nlowered. This is done by removing excess fabric from the back\r\nof the jacket just under the collar.\r\nYOUR SUIT/127\r\nIf more than a half inch of the shirt collar is showing, the\r\ncollar should be raised. Extra fabric is built into the collar in\r\nall better men's suits.\r\nIf the suit collar pulls away from your neck, or if the jacket\r\nlapels pull out or buckle, you need to take up the slack by\r\nshortening the collar. The collar is shortened at the notch where\r\nit joins the lapel in front.\r\nThe proper length of a jacket is strictly a matter of proportion.\r\nAn old rule of thumb was to stand with your arms at your\r\nsides, fingers curled under. If the hem of the jacket fell in the curve of the fingers, it was the\r\nright length. But this rule does\r\nnot accommodate people with\r\nlong or short arms, and you may\r\nend up looking unbalanced.\r\nGenerally, your jacket should\r\nbe long enough to cover your\r\nbuttocks. If you have very long\r\nlegs, however, you may want to wear your jacket slightly longer\r\nthan your buttocks to make\r\nyour legs appear shorter and\r\nmore balanced. If your legs are very short, you'll want to wear\r\nyour jacket just above the bot\u0002tom of your buttocks in order to give the illusion of longer legs.\r\nHave the tailor measure you\r\n(with shoes on) from the lower\r\nedge of the suit collar to the\r\nfloor, and divide the measure-\r\n128/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nment in half. For a well-proportioned look, the bottom of your\r\njacket in back should fall approximately at that halfway point.\r\nJacket length should be even all around. Unbutton the jacket\r\nand check the bottom of the jacket closure. If the sides don't\r\nmatch evenly, you probably have one shoulder lower than the\r\nother. Build a pad into the lower shoulder instead of altering\r\nthe jacket hem. Also, stand sideways in front of a mirror and\r\ncompare the length of the jacket front and back. If you have\r\nrounded shoulders, you may need to lengthen the back of the\r\njacket or shorten the front.\r\nVents Jacket vents are basted shut by the manufacturer. If necessary,\r\nopen them to check fit. Button the jacket and check to see if the vent pulls open in back. If it does, you need additional room\r\nin the waist and in the lower part of the jacket (the skirt). Have\r\nthe side seams let out or the buttons moved, or try a combi\u0002nation of both.\r\nTorso If you have excess material in the waist and hip area of the\r\njacket, have the tailor take in the side seams and the back center\r\nseam, or all three. If the waist is too tight or appears too sup\u0002pressed for your taste, have the seams let out.\r\nSleeves As a general rule, the hem of your sleeve should end just at the\r\nbreak of your wrist, covering your wrist bone, but leaving room\r\nto allow a quarter to a half inch of shirt cuff to show. Make sure\r\nthe tailor checks both sleeves. Most of us have one arm slightly\r\nlonger than the other. Also, have the tailor check that the fabric\r\nin the upper portion of your sleeve isn't too snug or baggy.\r\nSleeves should rest lightly on the upper arms without binding,\r\nand should hang smoothly to the bottom when your arms are\r\nat your sides. If a sleeve has a diagonal wrinkle in the upper\r\narm, your tailor will have to reset the sleeve and rotate it slightly. This alteration is expensive, and many tailors don't\r\nwant to do it. If your tailor won't make this change, don't buy\r\nthe suit. It will never look right.\r\nYOUR SUIT/129\r\nVest\r\nVests are fitted and are always worn with the bottom button open. A vest must\r\ncover the waistband of your trousers. If it is too long, have it shortened at the\r\nshoulder seams. This alteration raises the armholes, so check for comfort under\r\nyour arms. If the vest is too short, you probably need to choose a long or extra\u0002long suit. When your suit coat is buttoned, most vests show a little above the\r\njacket's closed lapels. A vest should fit snugly but not so tightly that the buttons\r\npull or strain. Be careful of vests with adjustable tabs on the sides. They often\r\nbunch in the back and pull across the front. You will get a smoother fit with a properly tailored vest.\r\nPants\r\nTry on pants with a belt or suspenders, and put your wallet in your back pocket\r\nif you normally carry it there. Check the fit in a three-way mirror so that you can\r\nsee without twisting and throwing off the natural drape of the fabric. Complete\r\nall adjustments to waist, seat, and thigh before marking length.\r\nWaist Determine proper waist size by having the tailor pin excess material\r\nin back or, if your pants are too small, by unbuttoning the waist\u0002band. Before marking the waist size, be sure that the pants are\r\nresting where you want them on your hips.\r\nIf your hips and waist are close to the same measurement, your\r\nslacks may slip down all day, affecting the length. Wearing sus- penders will alleviate the problem, and you'll be surprised at how\r\nmuch more comfortable you are.\r\nIf your waist is nine inches smaller than your jacket size, you'll\r\nneed to have your suits custom-made or get a semi-custom suit. You cannot successfully alter pants with that much drop from\r\nshoulder to waist with just a nip and tuck Some stores will totally\r\nremake the pants for you, completely take them apart and recut\r\nthem, which is still cheaper than a custom-made suit. Semi-custom\r\nsuits, offered by some stores, are similar to off the rack but are made\r\nfor you according to your measurements—often a very good buy if you have proportion problems.\r\n130/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSeat Check seat fit by looking for wrinkling and sagging in the back (too\r\nlarge) or pulling, especially at the pockets (too small). Major ad\u0002justments in the seat generally require an accompanying alteration\r\nof the thighs. Always sit in trousers to check the fit: pulling may\r\nnot be apparent until you are seated. While standing, try swinging\r\nyour leg forward or taking a few steps. Binding at the knee is another\r\nindication that additional room is needed in the seat.\r\nIf the trousers don't rest evenly on your hipbones or if there are diagonal wrinkles at the crotch and thigh area, you probably have one hip higher than the other. An expert tailor may be able to reset\r\nthe waistband to alleviate the problem.\r\nRise If the pants extend above your waist or don't come up high enough,\r\nthe rise is not right for you. Be sure that you have selected the\r\ncorrect suit size in terms of short, regular, or long. A pants waist\r\nthat is too low cannot be raised, and lowering the waist all around\r\nis an expensive alteration. A custom-tailored suit may be the best\r\noption in extreme cases.\r\nLegs Turn sideways and look at the way the pants hang. Legs should\r\nfall straight and center evenly over each foot. Large calves will cause the pant leg to pull back toward the heel. If you have prom\u0002inent thighs, the fabric will bind over them when you bend or sit. Only limited alterations are possible in the thigh and calf areas. If this is a problem for you. you may need to reconsider the style of\r\nthe suit you've chosen. Ivy League suits often have trousers with\r\nfuller legs than European or updated American cuts. While standing, look down at each pants crease. Ideally the crease should fall centered over the middle toe. If you have bowed\r\nlegs, the crease will fall over your little toe; if you are knock-kneed,\r\nthe crease will fall over your big toe. Re-pressing the crease is not\r\nthe answer to this problem, but adjusting the side seams may ac- commodate you.\r\nLength Alterations to the waist, seat, thigh,\r\nand calf areas affect the way pants\r\nhang and thus change the overall\r\nlength. Have the tailor complete all other adjustments before marking\r\nlength. If alterations to waist, seat,\r\nthigh, or whatever involve taking in\r\nmaterial, pants may be pinned to approximate the finished product,\r\nenabling the tailor to determine the\r\nproper length at the first fitting. If seams have to be let out, it is best\r\nto have the length marked at the\r\nsecond fitting.\r\nYou must wear proper shoes to have the length of trousers marked.\r\nThe hem of the pants legs should\r\nclear the shoe heel and should rest on the front of the shoe with a slight\r\nbreak. The hem may be tapered so\r\nthat the back hangs slightly longer\r\nthan the front. Make sure that the\r\ntailor measures both legs, since one\r\nhip may be higher or one leg longer\r\nthan the other.\r\n132/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nWhether you finish trousers with cuffs or plain bottoms is largely\r\na matter of personal taste and of your desire to make your legs look\r\nlonger or shorter. If you tend to wear out the back edge of your\r\npants cuff, you can have the tailor sew in a heel stay (an extra layer\r\nof fabric) to extend the life of your pants.\r\nQUALITY OF SUIT CONSTRUCTION\r\nThe price of a suit depends partly on the amount of time that goes into its con\u0002struction. Less expensive suits will reflect laborsaving shortcuts. But even an\r\nexpensive suit, while it may use first-class fabric, may occasionally cut corners on construction to keep the price down.\r\nHow do you recognize quality in a man's suit and avoid paying a premium\r\nprice for a not-so-premium garment? Here are a few points to check when con\u0002sidering a suit.\r\nPattern Check the side and back seams and make sure the patterns match.\r\nIt requires handwork and more material to make the seams line up\r\ncorrectly. Lower-quality suits may skimp here.\r\nSleeve The buttons on the sleeve should be placed so the edges just touch\r\neach other. The buttons should be bone, not plastic, and should\r\nbe sewn on by hand. A very expensive suit should have buttonholes\r\nthat really work. Working buttonholes are rarely found on inex\u0002pensive garments.\r\nCollar Look at the stitching on the underside of the collar. Hand-sewn\r\ncollars will be flat and hug the neck better. Look for close hand\r\nstitching.\r\nChest The material that covers the chest (not including the lapel) has an\r\ninner lining to help the garment hold its shape. This interfacing\r\nshould be sewn in rather than glued or fused. Squeeze the material over the chest and see if it is soft and resilient. If it's stiff, don't\r\nbuy it.\r\nLining Some jackets are fully lined, while others have lining only in the\r\nfront and the top half of the back. Properly lined jackets have an\r\nexpansion fold on the inside of the hem. The lining should be\r\nfolded under, neatly pressed, and sewn about a half inch higher\r\nthan the fold. If the fold is merely rolled under and not properly\r\npressed, the lining will begin to droop and show beneath the hem.\r\nWhen the back of the jacket is lined only at the top, check to be\r\nsure that the inside edge of the vent has a small strip of lining sewn\r\nin to prevent the flap from curling or riding up.\r\nFABRIC\r\nChoose quality fabric. For the ideal in appearance, fit, and wear, choose a natural\r\nfiber, usually wool. You may want to have a small percentage of polyester blended\r\nwith the wool, as polyester gives the cloth stamina and prevents wrinkles. Natural\r\nfibers, especially soft wools or linen, don't hold their shape well except in heavier\r\nweights or in sport coats. Never buy a double-knit or all-polyester suit. Both look\r\ninexpensive and unsophisticated.\r\nA suit in your color made of quality fabric and fitted to perfection is essential to creating an image that brings out your best. Now let's complete the picture with\r\nshirts and ties that are just right for you, too.\r\n134/COLOR FOR MEN\r\n1 SUIT MANUFACTURERS\r\nTo help you shop, here is a list of manufacturers and the cut and styl\r\nV\r\ne of their suits.\r\n\\Jamp of \\/f aniifijr, tii vc^r lAJdlllt? Ul IVldll UldUl Ul CI Mumo nf f inp Style/Fit (drop)\r\nIDIUtJl R i ri ormIXldllll Qnn InniictriDC 1 *s A illUUbU leb UOA, I .O.Li. European (7\")\r\nIXXLjt crooKs oroiners Ivy League (5\")\r\nDlUUKb D1U II It? I o Ivy League (6\")\r\nDiUUKa rjrOintirS orooKsgaie Updated American (7\")\r\nVjiurgio rvrmdni Liiorgio /Armani European [7\")\r\nGrief Chaps Updated American (7\") n.al I , ivlal A rial L, Odldllllcl , IVldlX Updated American (6\")\r\n(5\" drop above 42)\r\nHart, Marx Hickey Freeman* Updated American (6\")\r\nIntercontinental Apparel, Inc. Pierre Cardin European (7\")\r\nPalm Beach Haspel Updated American (6\")\r\nPalm Beach Palm Beach Updated American (6\")\r\nPalm Beach Palm Beach Signature Updated American (7\")\r\nPhillips, Van Heusen Cricketeer Updated American (6\")\r\nPincus Brothers Bill Blass Updated American (6\")\r\nSouthwick Southwick* Updated American (6\")\r\nStanley Blacker Stanley Blacker Updated American (6\")\r\nAvailable primarily through specialty stores. All others are available through department and spe\u0002cialty stores.\r\nQ\r\nCHAPTER\r\nYOUR SHIRT\r\nYour shirt, whether casual or dressy, is the most important item of\r\nclothing you wear because it is the color closest to your face. In sportswear, your\r\nshirt may set the tone for your whole look. In business and dress shirts, you also\r\nhave a tie and suit to work with, but your shirt is still the main body of color\r\nclose to your face.\r\nDon't cheat on color. I learned the downfall of cheating the hard way. One\r\ndistinguished client was particularly difficult to analyze. He tested well in Sum\u0002mer's powder blue and Winter's icy blue. After considerable testing and even a\r\ntrip to the store to try on polo shirts and see him in action, I determined he was\r\na Winter. Because of his blue eyes, his gray hair, and the fact that he tested well\r\nin Summer's blue, I told him he could cheat a little on his blue dress shirts. I then invited him to attend our annual convention to be an example of a hard-to\u0002analyze client. When he arrived, I almost fell off my platform. My Winter example\r\nwas wearing a golden tan suit, an ivory shirt, and a blue, red, and tan tie. \"Why\r\nare you wearing Spring colors?\" I asked, aghast. \"You told me I could cheat,\" he\r\nsaid. He looked terrible. I then turned to the two hundred consultants and an- nounced, \"We have a new motto. Never tell a client he can cheat a little.\" In sportswear, there's no excuse not to look good. You can always find a color\r\nthat flatters from the wide offering of sport shirts now available. In dress shirts,\r\nit may be more difficult to find a specific color, depending on your season. Look\r\nquickly through the store, and if it doesn't carry your color, move on. Another\r\nstore, another buyer, another designer, another manufacturer may give you what\r\n136/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nyou're looking for. You won't have wasted much time in the first store, so you'll\r\nstill have the time and money to go elsewhere. Eventually you'll know which\r\nbrands are best for your season. Aside from color, here are the most important aspects of buying a shirt:\r\nCOLLAR\r\nCUFF\r\nFABRIC\r\nPATTERNS\r\nFIT THE COLLAR\r\nThe most noticeable aspect of a shirt, aside from its color and overall quality, is the collar. The styJe of the collar, in addition to suiting your taste, must also suit\r\nthe style of your other clothes as well as the occasion. The shape and size of the\r\ncollar should be in proportion to your face. And of course the collar must fit. I will deal with fit in the last section of this chapter. Right now let's look at style,\r\nsize, and shape.\r\nCollar Styles\r\nThere are five basic collar styles: the button-down collar, the standard collar, the\r\npin collar, the full spread collar, and the round collar.\r\nThe button-down coJJar is the\r\nAmerican favorite. It is appropriate\r\nfor business, as well as casual and\r\ninformal social wear. It is not suit\u0002able for formal affairs. Button\u0002downs tend to pull and wrinkle\r\nwhen worn with a tie. Make sure\r\nthat yours are well-fitted, that your\r\ntie is not too wide for the collar, and\r\nthat your shoulders don't pull the\r\nshirt fabric, creasing it across the\r\ntop of your chest and pulling the\r\ncollar out of line (move the buttons,\r\nif need be).\r\nThe standard collar comes in var- ious sizes and shapes with points\r\nranging from short and wide to long\r\nand thin. It is dressier than the but\u0002ton-down and suitable for business\r\nor social events. The standard col\u0002lar has crisp, clean lines and looks\r\nbest when lightly starched and\r\npressed. It is often worn with collar\r\nstays, which are removed for laun\u0002dering.\r\nPin Collar A A\r\nThe fuJI-spread coJJar has wide,\r\nshortish points that are spread far\r\napart. It is always dressy and Eu\u0002ropean-looking on an American\r\nman. It suits those who have a spe\u0002cial flair or formality in their per\u0002sonal style. It must be worn with a wide knot in the tie. The full-spread\r\ncollar does not flatter a man with a wide face.\r\nStandard Collar\r\nThe pin collar is a sophisticated,\r\ndressy, and more formal collar,\r\nusually worn with a three-piece\r\nsuit. Some collars have holes in\r\nthem to accommodate the pin or\r\ncollar bar. You can wear a collar bar\r\non any standard collar as long as it does not have a wide spread. Never\r\npin a button-down.\r\nFull-spread Collar\r\n138/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThe round collar, often combined\r\nwith a collar bar, provides an ele\u0002gant look. This sophisticated collar\r\nis highly favored by the fashion\u0002conscious bankers on Wall Street.\r\nIt's not a corporate look, so corpo\u0002rate types should reserve it for so\u0002cial wear. It doesn't suit everyone,\r\nso don't wear it if you're the rugged,\r\noutdoorsy type.\r\nRound Collar\r\nCollar Size and Shape\r\nThe size and shape of the collar that looks best on you are determined by the\r\nsize of your head and body and the shape of your face. Ready-made shirts change\r\nsomewhat from year to year according to fashion. Some styles are faddish and do\r\nlittle for most men. Big strapping American men look pretty silly in the dinky\r\nlittle collars popular in the early eighties. Always flatter yourself rather than\r\ncompromise your looks to fashion. With subtle adaptations you can be in style\r\nand still wear becoming shirts that will last through many a trend.\r\nIf you have an oval face or one of average proportions, you can wear most collar\r\nstyles and need only remember to scale them to your face size and body size. If your face is long and thin or wide and round, you need to be more selective. The\r\nvariety of collars available in ready-made shirts probably offers enough choice\r\nfor most men, but some of you will want to invest in custom- or semi-custom\u0002made shirts. These shirts are available mainly through specialty shirt shops rather\r\nthan stores, but are worth the effort. In a specialty shirt shop you can try on many\r\ndifferent collar sizes, shapes, spreads, and even collar heights to see visually what\r\nlooks best on you. The man with a very short or a very long neck has no choice\r\nbut a custom shirt. Adjusting the height of your collar will do wonders for the\r\nappearance of your neck. Skillfully chosen, your collar can flatter your face and\r\ncreate the illusion of better proportions.\r\nIf you have a long, thin face, choose a collar of medium length that is a little wide. If your shirt is custom-made, choose a spread that is slightly wider than\r\nstandard. Avoid the very wide European spread, as it is the extreme opposite of\r\nyour face and will accentuate its thinness.\r\nYOUR SHIRT/139\r\n140/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nYOUR SHIRT/141\r\nIf you have a wide or round face, it can appear lengthened and slimmed by\r\na slightly longer and thinner collar. An extremely long and thin collar is too out\r\nof balance with your face and will accentuate rather than minimize your problem.\r\nAvoid round collars, which accentuate roundness, and European spreads, which\r\naccentuate wideness.\r\nIf you have a long neck, your collar should be a quarter inch higher all around\r\nthan the standard cut. Adjust your suit-collar height as well.\r\nIf you have a short neck, choose a shorter collar to keep from looking stubby.\r\nYour suit-collar height should be proportionally adjusted, too. I/your neck is wrinkied, choose a collar higher in front.\r\nIf you have a very small or a very large head and face, your collar size\r\nshould be scaled to your size: smaller collar for small head, larger for large head.\r\nIn addition to being in flattering proportion to your face, the collars of your busi- ness and dress shirts must be compatible with the style of your suits and sport\r\ncoats and the shape of your jacket lapels. If you've chosen a slightly wide lapel\r\nto suit your face and body shape, don't select a thin, narrow collar. If you're\r\nwearing a narrow-lapeled casual jacket, don't accompany it with a European\r\nspread shirt collar.\r\nLast, make sure your collars are clean, well-pressed, and not worn out. A collar\r\nthat is frayed around the edges will blow your image for sure. Shirts that are worn\r\nfrequently become familiar old buddies. Take a look at yours and toss out the\r\nfrazzled ones. THE CUFF\r\nYour cuff is important in creating a finished, well-groomed look. The length of\r\nyour cuff is critical. Exposed wrists look just as bad as sleeves that are too loose\r\nand too long. Cuffs should be a quarter to a half inch longer than your jacket\r\nsleeves and should cover the wristbone. Never wear a short-sleeved shirt under\r\na suit. Even in sweltering weather it looks unprofessional.\r\nFor the neatest look in a cuff, make sure it fits your wrist trimly. A button on\r\nthe placket above the cuff is the mark of a fine shirt. This look is found on ex- pensive ready-mades or can be ordered on custom shirts. If you choose French\r\ncuffs and cuff links, make sure the formality of this style blends with your suit\r\nand is compatible with your personality. French cuffs are usually for dress, but\r\nmore formal men can wear them for work as well.\r\n142/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nWhatever style of cuff you choose,\r\nmake sure it is crisply pressed, espe\u0002cially if the fabric is cotton. You can sometimes get away without pressing\r\nif your shirt is permanent press, but a\r\nstiff, lightly starched cuff gives a more\r\nfinished look.\r\nhi A\r\nf\r\nhi\r\n'» placket\r\nTHE FABRIC\r\nThe best fabrics for dress shirts are 100 percent cotton or cotton/polyester (wash\r\nand tumble dry) blends. A shirt of pure cotton looks great, fits, is cool, and takes\r\ncolor well. However, it wrinkles—sometimes badly! —after a day at work. A per\u0002manent-press cotton/polyester blend (65 percent cotton/35 percent polyester) may\r\nbe the best choice for long wear. The basic choices for business shirt fabrics are broadcloth, oxford cloth, and\r\nend-on-end.* In general you will wear like finishes in suits and shirts: broadcloth\r\nwith worsted (both smooth), oxford with flannel (both slightly textured).\r\nIn sport shirts you may choose from cottons, denims, corduroys, flannels, wools,\r\nor knits. Take the time to find the right color for you, and select shirts of good\r\nquality that will wear well.\r\nForget 100 percent synthetic fabrics for either business or casual wear. These\r\nfabrics almost always look cheap and don't \"breathe.\" Silk shirts are strictly for\r\nevening wear or for the flashier professions where it is acceptable to dress up for\r\nwork. Batiste or any see-through material is not appropriate for business, though\r\nin the creative professions it may be acceptable for summer wear.\r\nAn end-on-end is a fabric with two colors of thread (say, blue and white) tightly woven together.\r\nIt is traditionally darker than an oxford cloth.\r\nYOUR SHIRT/143\r\nPATTERNS\r\nPatterns add interest to a shirt but are always less formal than a solid. The rule\r\nof thumb is that subtle patterns are suitable for business wear, and noticeable\r\npatterns are for casual or social attire. Most men are best advised to stay away\r\nfrom prints of any kind. Pictures, geometric designs, and florals are seldom flat- tering unless you live in Hawaii, where they are part of the culture.\r\nChecks for work Stripes\r\nTattersall checks in subtle shades\r\nand (particularly in the summer)\r\nsmall, well-defined box checks can\r\nbe acceptable for some professions.\r\nChecks are not a corporate look.\r\nWhen thin and crisp, stripes go with\r\nany style business suit, even a pinstripe. As the stripes get wider or\r\nbrighter, they become more sporty in\r\nappearance.\r\n144/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nChecks for casual\r\n•M i 3}\r\n|j | fmrp*—*-\r\n-\r\n_3E 1 8 \"tt Ml1 iH .:'! I\r\nM\r\ni\r\n'\r\ns1\r\n.n_ iji\r\n'\r\nHI| H LtJ i\r\nSc. it :i\r\n.\r\nriHi1\r\n1 r \"\"9 ; ; r\r\nPlaids\r\nFrom muted to bold, tattersall to Any bright, busy combination of\r\ngingham, checked shirts are colors is immediately casual, but\r\ngenerally most suitable for subtle plaids can be worn with a sportswear. sportcoat for some professions.\r\nTHE FIT\r\nWhen selecting a ready-made shirt, you have only neck circumference and sleeve\r\nlength to go by. If your arm length and neck size are not compatible with the\r\nstandard size, you'll need a custom shirt. In ready-mades you may also have to choose between an ill-fitting torso and an ill-fitting collar, since most manufac\u0002turers use a standard proportion of collar size to chest width. If you find yourself\r\nin this situation, choose an ill-fitting torso with a well-fitted collar, since the collar\r\nis the more visible. Some manufacturers do cut shirts fuller or slimmer, so ask\r\nthe salesman which brand and designers are best for your build. (When you have\r\nyour shirts custom-made, the dilemma of proper fit is avoided.)\r\nYOUR SHIRT/145\r\nMany men will have some fit problem with a ready-made shirt, but may find\r\ncustom-made shirts prohibitively expensive. Although a tailor-made-from-scratch\r\nshirt is expensive, the independent shirt shops that specialize in semi-custom\r\nshirts offer much more reasonable price ranges. You can try on torso size and\r\ntaper as well as collar and cuffs. The store measures your neck and arms and\r\nguarantees fit. In addition, you can choose your fabric and—hurray! —your colors\r\nfrom a large assortment. These shirts last forever, and you can even have the collar\r\nreplaced if it wears out. If you have any fitting problems, it's worth the time and\r\nexpense to get a shirt that does your body justice and in which you feel terrific.\r\nFitting the Collar\r\nThe collar's fit is crucial. If it is too tight, it will pull and wrinkle, so even the\r\nfinest shirt will look poorly chosen. If the collar is too loose, you will look messy.\r\nTo measure your neck properly, measure around the lower part of your neck\r\nat the point where the collar button rests. The ends of the tape measure should\r\ntouch, but the tape should not be pulled tightly. You want to have enough leeway\r\nso that a tie, when knotted, will not strangle you.\r\nCollar too tight Collar too loose\r\n146/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nIf your collar wrinkles when buttoned and worn with a tie, it is probably too tight.\r\nIf you have square shoulders, your button-downs will wrinkle even if the collar\r\nsize is correct. You may be able to adjust the buttons by moving them to a point\r\nwhere the collar doesn't pull. If that doesn't work, don't wear button-downs, or have them custom-made so the shoulder can be cut differently.\r\nRecheck your collar size every year or anytime you gain or lose weight. As you\r\nage, your neck size will change. My father was a surgeon who was more interested\r\nin his patients than his shirts. Year after year he ordered the same size shirts until one morning my mother found him with a razor, slitting the buttonhole on his\r\nbrand-new shirt collar. \"What are you doing?\" she cried. \"My shirt's too tight,\"\r\nhe replied. We wondered how many years he'd been slitting his buttonholes\r\ninstead of buying bigger shirts.\r\nFitting the Cuffs and Sleeves\r\nMeasure the length of your arm from the center of the nape of your neck along\r\nyour shoulder and down to your wristbone. A custom shop should measure both\r\narms in case one is longer than the other. In ready-mades, buy the length that fits your long arm and have the other sleeve shortened.\r\nMeasuring sleeve length\r\nYOUR SHIRT/147\r\nYour cuff should fit closely around your wrist but still be comfortable. Adjust the\r\nbuttons if necessary. Some shirts come with two buttons sewn on so you can\r\nbutton whichever fits your wrist best. Remember, cuffs should not extend much\r\nmore than a half inch below your jacket sleeve. By the same token, never settle\r\nfor a sleeve that is too short.\r\nIf your arms are extremely broad or muscular, you may need a custom shirt in\r\norder to build more fullness into the sleeve. Skimpy sleeves not only are uncom\u0002fortable but will also pull on the shirt yoke and make your collar wrinkle.\r\nFitting the Shoulders\r\nAn ill-fitting shirt that is too tight will pull, creating long creases in the fabric across your collarbones. A shirt too loose in the shoulders will sag across the\r\nfront. The standard shirt yoke is cut for shoulders that taper two inches from the\r\nbottom of the neck to the edge of the shoulder.\r\nIf you have square shoulders, you'll need a square yoke or your collars will\r\nalways pull and wrinkle. Square yokes have to be custom-made, though some\r\nfashion designers cut a yoke that is more square than the standard.\r\nIf your shoulders are quite tapered, you'll need an extra-tapered yoke\u0002again, custom-made. You may also need your collar shortened.\r\n/\r\nTapered yoke Square yoke\r\n148/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nFitting the Torso\r\nThe taper of the shirt body is a matter of both comfort and looks. You want Lo avoid any pulling or constriction across your stomach, as well as any bunching\r\nup or bagging of surplus fabric. A trim, slightly loose tine wears best and is most\r\ncomfortable. Make sure the shirt is long enough to stay tucked in. Try on different brands to see which are cut for you. Some designer shirts and\r\nEuropean cuts are slimmer through the torso. A tailor can put darts in a shirt\r\nthat's too full, thus reducing the excess bulk.\r\nNow you know everything you need to know to successfully buy and fit a shirt. When you find a shirt you really like, buy two, so you'll always have your favorite\r\nshirt clean and ready to wear.\r\nInvest some time and effort in your shirt wardrobe—both casual and dress. A\r\nshirt in some form is one item of clothing you wear every day of your life. SHIRT MANUFACTURERS\r\nTo help you shop here is a list of shirt manufacturers and the cut of their shirts. Name of Manufacturer Name of Line Style/Fit\r\nAlexander Julian Alexander Julian* Medium range\r\nArrow Arrow Fitted and medium range\r\nBrooks Brothers Brooks Brothers* Full cut\r\nGitman Brothers Gitman Brothers* Medium range\r\nManhattan Henry Grethel Medium range\r\nManhattan John Henry Fitted\r\nManhattan Manhattan Fitted and medium range\r\nPalm Beach Eagle Medium range\r\nPalm Beach Gant Full cut\r\nPalm Beach Pierre Cardin Fitted\r\nVan Heusen Van Heusen Fitted and medium range\r\nWarnaco Chaps Full cut\r\nWarnaco Christian Dior Fitted and full cut\r\nWarnaco Hathaway Full cut\r\n* AvciiJabJe primarily through specialty stores. All others are available through department and spe\u0002cialty stores.\r\nCHAPTER\r\n10\r\nYOUR TIE\r\nEvery evening after work Harry frequented a New York bar where\r\nit was the custom for a man to loosen his shirt and hang his tie on a peg on one\r\nwall. Every night hundreds of ties adorned the wall, signifying the end of a hard\r\nday's work. One night Harry—who was a well-dressed and respected fellow\r\n—\r\nhung up his tie as usual, only to let out a cry, leave the bar, and return a few\r\nminutes later with a pair of scissors. Harry took his tie off the peg and ceremo\u0002niously cut it to shreds. The bartender said, \"My God, man, why are you cutting\r\nup an expensive silk tie?\" And Harry replied, \"Because there is another tie just\r\nlike mine up there. My tie is the only way I have of expressing my individuality!\"\r\nAnd then he ordered a double.\r\nYour tie can make or break your image. When chosen wisely, it brings color to your face, style and class to your dress, and individuality to your business \"uni\u0002form.\"\r\nYet many men shop for a tie as if it were to be worn by their shirt and suit\r\nalone. You will often see a man bring the suit and shirt to the counter and start trying the ties on the items of clothing, not thinking to try each tie on himself. I have often demonstrated to my clients how much impact—or how little—a tie has by having them try it on. The salespeople at better men's stores in my town\r\nare quite used to seeing men standing in front of a mirror holding shirts and ties\r\nunder their faces.\r\n150/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nNaturally a tie must look good with your suit and shirt, but never at the expense\r\nof your face or personality. If possible, buy the suit first, then select the tie, and\r\nthen choose a shirt to match both. The guidelines for combining coat, shirt, and\r\ntie are in Chapter 11.\r\nTo buy the best ties for you, consider: pattern\r\ncolor\r\nFABRIC\r\nWIDTH\r\nLENGTH\r\nLet's look at each of these factors.\r\nPATTERN\r\nThere are eight basic types of patterns:\r\n1. Solid 5. Plaid\r\n2. Rep (Striped) 6. Geometric\r\n3. Foulard (Ivy League) 7. Dots\r\n4. Club 8. Paisley\r\nEach one of these patterns has a different effect and is appropriate with different\r\nstyles of suits and jackets. A useful tie wardrobe will include a sampling of pat\u0002terns so that the look of any suit can be modified, making your clothes as versatile as possible.\r\nSolid\r\nSolids go well with solid suits, patterned jackets, and all shirts. They are versatile,\r\nand can be either bold or conservative. Dark silk solid ties have a quiet elegance,\r\nwhile casual wools and knits bring either subtle or bright color to your wardrobe\r\nwithout being busy or loud. Some solids have a same-color pattern—a red-on\u0002red stripe, for example. These are considered solids as long as the pattern is subtle.\r\nSilk solids have a sheen that adds richness to the tie, but stay away from very\r\nshiny or brocade versions.\r\n\r\n152/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nRep (Striped)\r\nStriped ties are based on the old regimental patterns. These days any diagonal\r\nstripe is called a rep. This is the classic American business tie. Stripes may be\r\nquite thin, of varying widths, or even and wide. Your selection will depend on\r\nyour body proportions and personality. With clear-colored suits, keep the stripes\r\ncrisp; with suits in muted tones, the stripes should be softer.\r\nFoulard [Ivy League)\r\nThe term foulard was originally applied to a weave of fabric with a corded ap\u0002pearance. Today it is used for an Ivy League tie pattern made up of a series of\r\nsmall, regularly spaced designs such as circles, ovals, diamonds, or squares on a solid background. A foulard is often quite elegant. The small, subtle pattern brings\r\ncolor to the tie without being loud.\r\nClub\r\nThe club tie can be sporty or conservative. It has a regular pattern of club-like\r\nmotifs—such as heraldic shields, sporting insignia, or animals—against a solid\r\nbackground. The pattern should be small, subtle, and not instantly recognizable.\r\nA tie with big, bold figures on it is not a club tie, and is generally considered\r\ntacky.\r\nPlaid\r\nPlaid ties are usually considered casual. In heavy wool they are appropriate in\r\nthe wintertime with tweeds and muted herringbone. They do not go with pin\u0002striped suits or the sleeker worsteds. They can go well with flannel suits, however,\r\nand when made of linen or cotton, plaid ties go with summer suits as well. Just\r\nremember to avoid garish or loud plaids at any time of year.\r\nGeometric\r\nGeometric ties cover everything from an enlarged diamond pattern resembling an\r\nIvy League tie to crisscross or vertically striped patterns. The large diamond\r\nshapes are more casual than the smaller versions, but either brings an angularity\r\nto your appearance—particularly flattering to the large man.\r\nYOUR TIE/153\r\nDots\r\nDots range from polka dots to pin dots. Traditionally a very elegant tie, the polka\r\ndot is almost as versatile as the solid tie. Very small pin dots are even more formal,\r\nand are used for evening or with your more elegant business suits for special\r\noccasions.\r\nPaisley\r\nPaisley ties are useful because they combine so many colors that they mix and\r\nmatch well. In stronger colors paisley ties are too sporty for a business look, but\r\nwhen the colors and fabric are subdued, these ties can be elegant and dressy.\r\nCOLOR\r\nYour tie color can enhance your face, add zip to your total appearance, and work\r\nas an accent to complete your outfit. It can also be a powerful tool for bringing an old wrong-color suit into line. Always wear your right color as the primary\r\ncolor in the tie. Choose a patterned tie with a background color from your chart\r\nand a design that brings in a small amount of the wrong color from your suit. The\r\ntie will then blend harmoniously with the suit, while its primary color offsets to some degree the suit's negative effect. Once your wardrobe has been changed over\r\ncompletely, however, try to buy only ties with your correct colors. There may be\r\na touch of wrong color in patterned ties, but the more visible the wrong color is, the less it will do you justice.\r\nFollowing are some guidelines for each season's ties.\r\nWinters\r\nWinters need clear, sharp colors. When shopping for a navy tie, be careful to buy\r\na bright or dark navy rather than a muted one. Winters look excellent in solid\r\ncolors, since a pattern can diminish the contrast or sharpness of the tie under a Winter's face. Solid dark blue-reds are especially flattering. Any patterns should\r\ncontain some brightness or contrast. Best prints for the Winter man are stripes\r\nwith sharp contrast (the width of the stripes depends on your body scale, face\r\nsize, and personality). Second best are foulard ties, if the tiny repeat patterns\r\ncontain some element of brightness or contrast. A tiny white diamond, for ex- ample, is better than a muted blue diamond. Geometries are good for Winters.\r\nPolka dots are fine as long as they are sharp and suit your personality. Plaids are\r\nrarely appropriate for a Winter, since a plaid that offers enough contrast is usually\r\n154/COLOR FOR MEN\r\ntoo loud for business wear. Paisleys are similarly problematic, but are occasionally\r\nokay if carefully selected. If the paisley is subtle, then you must wear a pure white\r\nor a very icy shirt to provide the sharpness your look needs. A club tie is not your\r\nmost exciting look. Wear it only if you are sentimental about the emblem.\r\nSummers\r\nSummers should choose more subtle ties in shades slightly more muted than\r\nWinter's. A Summer's best print is the foulard, especially when the pattern is in\r\na rounded shape such as a teardrop or oval. Summers should wear stripes that\r\noffer minimal contrast or look blended (either thin or wide, depending upon body\r\nscale, face size, and personality). Plaids are okay as long as they are blended; a subtle madras plaid works well. Dots are fine, too, as long as they are fairly small\r\nand not too sharp. Few Summers wear paisleys, but if they suit you, keep the\r\npattern subtle and blended. Clubs are fine if the insignia is not too bright and the\r\nmotif is conservative.\r\nAutumns\r\nThe Autumn man needs richness in the colors of his ties. Often he has no cheek\r\ncolor, and he depends upon that tie to brighten his face. Most Autumns look\r\nexcellent in patterned ties, especially rich paisleys. Plaids are great as well, par\u0002ticularly in combination with Autumn's tweeds and herringbones. Irregular\r\nstripes are also good, though ties with evenly spaced stripes of equal width may\r\nbe too contrived and controlled for an Autumn man. Polka dots may also be too\r\nformal for you. Foulard ties are fine in almost any pattern as long as the scale\r\nsuits your face and body size. Sporty club ties are good for Autumns.\r\nSprings\r\nSprings, like Winters, depend on clear colors, so their ties should never look dull\r\nor washed out. The Spring man wears solids well, usually in ties with a matte\r\n(nonshiny) finish. The best prints for Springs are casual, subtle plaids, widish\r\nstripes with medium contrast, and almost any foulard pattern. Severe stripes are too sharp for most Spring men, and polka dots are usually too formal. Sporty club\r\nmotifs are good for Springs. A paisley will work only if it is carefully chosen in\r\nyour colors. In general, it is not Spring's best look. Most geometries are too severe\r\nfor Springs.\r\nWINTER SUMMER\r\nSolid Excellent for contrast.\r\nChoose clear, sharp\r\ncolors, especially in\r\nnavy or red.\r\nSolid Good in muted shades,\r\nmedium to dark.\r\nRep (Striped) Excellent. Choose\r\nsharply contrasting\r\nstripes.\r\nRep (Striped) Good with blended\r\nstripes, subtle contrast.\r\nFoulard Select patterns with\r\nbrightness or contrast.\r\nFoulard Excellent, especially\r\nwhen pattern is in a rounded shape such as teardrop.\r\nClub Personal choice.\r\nInsignias better than\r\nsporty motifs.\r\nClub Personal choice. Avoid\r\nanything too bright.\r\nPlaid Seldom appropriate. Plaid Subtle plaids, such as gentle madras, are good.\r\nGeometric Excellent. Geometric Subtle rather than\r\nbold.\r\nDots Choose sharp polka\r\ndots with high\r\ncontrast.\r\nDots Dots are fine, usually\r\nsmall and not too\r\nsharp.\r\nPaisley Seldom appropriate.\r\nChoose sophisticated\r\nneutrals rather than\r\nbold colors.\r\nPaisley Seldom appropriate\r\nbut okay if soft and\r\nblended.\r\n156/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nAUTUMN SPRING\r\nSolid Good in rich colors. Solid Good in clear colors, never dull or washed\r\nout.\r\nRep (Striped) Good in irregular\r\nstripe.\r\nRep (Striped) Choose medium\u0002contrast stripes.\r\nFoulard Almost any pattern\r\nokay.\r\nFoulard Almost any pattern\r\nokay.\r\nClub Sporty club motifs are\r\nfine.\r\nClub Sportv club motifs are\r\nfine.\r\nPlaid Excellent, especially\r\nwith tweeds and\r\nherringbone.\r\nPlaid Excellent in casual,\r\nsubtle plaids. Gentle\r\nmadras is good.\r\nGeometric Probably too formal. Geometric Probably too severe.\r\nDots Probably too formal. Dots Probably too formal.\r\nPaisley Excellent. Paisley Seldom appropriate.\r\nFABRIC\r\nA tie is never as effective—even one in the right color and pattern—if it is made\r\nof a cheap fabric. Both the surface and drape of the fabric are important. Silk,\r\nfine wool, linen (for summer), and cotton are the best fabrics. Stay away from\r\nsynthetics if possible. Not only do good fabrics take color better, but they also\r\nknot better than cheaper ones.\r\nGenerally any matte or flat-finish fabric can be worn for business, dress, or casual occasions. Nubby textures are always more casual. A subtle sheen on silk\r\nis elegant in business wear and can be quite fancy. Shiny ties are strictly dress\r\nwear, but they must be silk and in a color conservative enough to keep the shine\r\nfrom being overwhelming.\r\nTie Width\r\nRight\r\nThe width of ties varies somewhat according to fashion, but the most flattering\r\nwidth for all men is between 3 and 3V2 inches at the tie's broadest point. If you\r\nare broad-chested, you'll want a broader tie. If you are thin, choose narrower ties. In addition, you need to have the tie in proportion to your collars. Here, too,\r\nit is a subtle difference, not a large one, that bespeaks style and savvy.\r\n158/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nTie Length\r\nThe length of your tie should always be the same. When it is tied properly, the\r\ntip of your tie should hit just at the top of your belt. You will need to adjust the\r\nlength when tying it. Depending upon your height you will need more or less\r\nfabric to achieve this.\r\nKNOTS AND BOW TIES\r\nHow you wear the tie is as important as the tie itself. There are three standard\r\nknots; each one is suitable with different shirt collars and your overall body pro\u0002portions. The tie knot should lie comfortably between your collar points with no\r\ngaps on either side and no pinching or crowding. Both wide-faced and thin-faced\r\nmen should avoid very thin or very wide knots, which accentuate any proportion\r\nproblems by either repeating the line or offering too extreme a contrast.\r\nThe following illustrations are drawn in mirror image, so you can prop the book\r\nup facing you while you stand in front of the mirror\r\nYOUR TIE/159\r\nThe Four-in-Hand\r\nThe four-in-hand is a longish knot and\r\nis proportioned for the button-down\r\ncollar or the standard collar of average\r\nspread. Because this knot gives a longer finished tie, it is excellent for\r\nthe tall man who needs a little more\r\nlength.\r\n1. Place the wide end of the tie on\r\nyour right so it hangs about 12\r\ninches longer than the narrow end.\r\n2. Wrap the long end around the short\r\nend and then behind, finishing on\r\nthe right.\r\n3. Continue to cross long end over\r\nshort end, finishing on the left. 4. Pull long end through loop from\r\nthe back.\r\n5. Slip point through front of knot and\r\ntighten.\r\n6. While pulling down short end with one hand, use other hand to slide\r\nknot up snugly.\r\nLook at this illustration as if you were looking in a mirror.\r\n^4\r\n1. f.v.\r\nv\r\n160/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThe Half Windsor\r\nThe half Windsor is more triangular\r\nand is also proportioned for the stan- dard collar.\r\n1. Place the wide end of the tie on\r\nyour right so it hangs about 12\r\ninches longer than the narrow end.\r\n2. Wrap the long end behind the short\r\nend, finishing on the right.\r\n3. Thread long end through loop and\r\npull down to the left. 4. Cross long end over knot.\r\n5. Pull long end through loop from\r\nthe back.\r\n6. Slip point through front of knot and\r\ntighten. While pulling down short\r\nend with one hand, use other hand\r\nto slide knot up snugly.\r\nLook at this illustration as if you were looking in a mirror.\r\nYOUR TIE/161\r\nThe Windsor\r\nThe Windsor knot is wide and trian\u0002gular and is specifically for a Euro\u0002pean spread or any shirt collar with a widish spread.\r\n1. Place the wide end of the tie on\r\nyour right so it hangs about 12\r\ninches longer than the narrow end.\r\n2. Cross the long end over the short\r\nend and pull up through loop from\r\nthe back.\r\n3. Bring long end down and wrap be\u0002hind short end, finishing on the\r\nright.\r\n4. Thread long end through loop, then\r\npull down and wrap across front of\r\nknot.\r\n5. Thread through loop again.\r\n6. Slip point through front of knot and\r\ntighten. While pulling down short\r\nend with one hand, use other hand\r\nto slide knot up snugly.\r\nLook at this illustration as if you were looking in a mirror.\r\n162/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThe Bow Tie\r\nWearing the bow tie is a matter of per\u0002sonal choice. But in all but formal at\u0002tire, it is less serious or businesslike.\r\nThe same thought and care should be\r\ngiven to the selection of its color, pat\u0002tern, and fabric as for the standard tie. Avoid clip-ons, even with a tuxedo.\r\nIf you are going to wear a bow tie,\r\nhere's a simple way of making a neat\r\nbow:\r\n1. Pull left end to extend IV2 inches\r\nbelow right end.\r\n2. Cross long end over short end and\r\npull up through loop from the back.\r\nPull tight.\r\n3. Fold short end to form front loop\r\nof bow.\r\n4. While securing front loop with left hand, pull long end down across loop center.\r\n5. Loop long end around right fore\u0002finger toward chest.\r\n6. Push new loop through knot be\u0002hind first loop. Pull tight and adjust\r\nevenly.\r\nNow read on to find out the best ways\r\nto successfully put your coat, shirt,\r\nand tie together. Although each is im\u0002portant separately, your overall image\r\ndepends on how well you combine\r\nthem.\r\nLook at this illustration as if you were looking in a\r\nmirror.\r\nCHAPTER\r\n11\r\nCOMBINING COAT,\r\nSHIRT, AND TIE\r\nUsing your seasonal chart and the guidelines in this chapter you\r\ncan combine your suits and sport coats with shirts and ties with minimal effort\r\nand maximum impact.\r\nThe approach to putting your clothes together is always the same. Think of\r\nyour suit as your basic building block. It establishes the overall color, style, and\r\nlook you are aiming for. Your shirt can be your white or any light color in your\r\npalette that is compatible with the suit and the occasion. Your tie must then relate\r\nto the shirt color, the suit color, or both.\r\nWith those principles in mind, follow these do's and don'ts to enjoy the pleasure\r\nof putting yourself together with grace and impact.\r\nDO: BUY ONLY COLORS FROM YOUR CHART\r\nBuying clothes exclusively in your colors is the secret to successful color com\u0002binations. Using the Color for Men system, blending suits or coats with your shirts\r\nand ties will be more fun and much easier than ever before. All your clothes will\r\ngo together because they are in compatible colors of your season and because you\r\nwill buy shirts and ties that work interchangeably with your suits. If you have\r\nsuits in the wrong colors, I realize you may have to purchase a few compromise\r\nties until you are able to phase out the suit (and the tie!). But once your wardrobe\r\nhas completed its transition, don't buy anything new in a wrong color.\r\n164/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nDO: COMBINE THREE SOLIDS\r\nWearing a solid-color shirt, suit, and tie is perfectly acceptable and a sure way\r\nto look good. This is not a boring look if the colors are compatible (which they\r\nautomatically are, using the Color for Men system) and look terrific on you (which\r\nthey will). It is low-key, suitable for business, but also elegant. After all, what's\r\nmore elegant than a tuxedo?\r\nAlthough all three clothing items are solids, you are actually combining only\r\ntwo colors, or two colors plus one neutral. Here are some rules for combining\r\nthree solids tastefully and effectively.\r\nIf your shirt is your season's white, pale gray, or beige (i.e., pale neutral),\r\nthen your suit and tie may be two distinctly different colors. Usually your\r\ntie will be the accent color. In sportswear the same principle applies, as long\r\nas the pants are gray, beige/tan, or your white.\r\nHere are examples, by season, of combinations of three solids with a neutral shirt and two distinct colors, using the tie as accent:\r\nWinter: navy suit; white shirt; blue-red tie. Summer: navy suit; soft white shirt; burgundy tie. Autumn: navy suit; oyster shirt; rust or bittersweet red tie. Spring: navy suit; ivory shirt; light rust tie.\r\nIf your shirt is a color (blue, pink, etc.), then two of the three clothing items\r\nmust be from the same color family. A color family is a series of tints or shades of the same color. Light blue and navy are both from the blue family.\r\nPink and burgundy are from the blue-red family. Peach and rust are from\r\nthe orange-red family. Other same-color combinations are beige and brown,\r\nbuff and golden brown, ivory and camel, gray and black, salmon and tomato\r\nred.\r\nCOMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/165\r\nHere are examples, by season, of combinations of three solids in which\r\nthe shirt is a color and the tie is in the same color family as either the\r\nshirt or the suit:\r\nWinter: navy suit; icy pink shirt; bright burgundy tie (tie and shirt are same color family).\r\nSummer: blue-gray suit; light blue shirt; navy tie (tie and shirt are same color family).\r\nAutumn: coffee suit; peach shirt; brown tie (tie and suit are same\r\ncolor family).\r\nSpring: tan suit; peach shirt; light rust tie (tie and shirt are same\r\ncolor family).\r\nDO: COMBINE TWO SOLIDS WITH ONE PATTERN\r\nThe second surefire look is created by combining two solids or semi-solids with one pattern. A semi-solid is a pattern that is so subtle that it gives the appearance\r\nof being solid. This can include a suit with a pattern that fades into the overall\r\nbackground or a tweed that is so closely woven with noncontrasting colors that\r\nthe eye perceives it as solid.\r\nIf you choose a patterned tie, it must pick up the suit color, the shirt color, or both colors.\r\nYour tie must have some reasonable relationship to the color of your suit or your shirt, preferably both. The most common error is choosing a tie that doesn't\r\nrelate to both items or, sometimes, even to one. For best results, try to pick a tie pattern that repeats the suit color and the shirt color. If that's not possible, then\r\nrepeat at least one. It's okay to have a few extra colors in the pattern as long as the suit and/or shirt colors are there.\r\nIn sportswear, your patterned tie may pick up the color of the pants instead of\r\nthe shirt and/or coat.\r\n166/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nHere are examples, by season, of combining two solids with a patterned tie:\r\nWinter: navy suit; white shirt; navy, red, and white striped tie. Summer: navy suit; soft white shirt; foulard tie with burgundy\r\nbackground and navy, soft white, and medium blue\r\npattern.\r\nAutumn: navy suit; oyster shirt; paisley tie in brown, blue, oyster\r\nwhite, and beige.\r\nSpring: navy suit; ivory shirt; striped or plaid tie in shades of red,\r\nlight blue, navy, and ivory.\r\nIf you choose a patterned shirt it must pick up the coJor family of either the\r\nsuit or the tie. The solid tie should not be the same color as the solid suit unless it matches\r\nexactly, which is nearly impossible. Unmatching navies are a common error.\r\nHere are examples, by season, of combining two solids with a patterned shirt:\r\nWinter: navy suit; red tie; dark blue and white hairline-striped\r\nshirt.\r\nSummer: navy suit; red tie; light blue and white oxford-striped shirt. Autumn: navy suit; bittersweet tie; bittersweet and oyster white\r\noxford-striped shirt.\r\nSpring: navy suit; rust tie; tattersall check shirt in blue and brown.\r\nIf you choose a patterned suit containing threads of color woven into the\r\nbackground, the tie must pick up a color from the suit.\r\nCOMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/167\r\nIf you choose a monochromatic, patterned suit, the solid tie can be a dif\u0002ferent, contrasting coJor.\r\nIn sportswear, if you choose a patterned jacket, the same principles apply\r\nfor the shirt and tie. The solid pants should pick up a color from the jacket.\r\nHere are examples, by season, of combining two solids with a patterned suit:\r\nWinter: charcoal gray pinstriped suit; white shirt; red tie. Summer: blue-gray glen plaid suit with subtle burgundy threads; soft\r\nDO: COMBINE ONE SOLID WITH TWO NONCOMPETING\r\nPATTERNS\r\nThis combination is tricky because it leaves room for error. It's not as sure or easy\r\nas combining three solids, or two solids and one pattern. When done correctly,\r\nthis combination subtly announces that you know your clothing! When wrong,\r\nalas, it loudly proclaims the opposite.\r\nIf you are unsure of your ability to recognize noncompeting patterns, avoid\r\nputting two patterns adjacent to each other and you'll be safer. In other words,\r\nyour shirt will be solid.\r\nIn sportswear, the same principles apply. Whether you choose a patterned coat\r\nor patterned pants, your second pattern will probably be your tie. The other two\r\nitems will be solids.\r\nThe basic principles are:\r\nAutumn\r\nSpring:\r\nwhite shirt; burgundy tie. brown and beige tweed suit; oyster shirt; bittersweet tie. herringbone suit in golden brown, tan, and light beige;\r\nivory shirt; brown or rust tie.\r\nUse a subtle pattern with a stronger one. Two subtle ones look washed out. Two bold ones are garish. A pinstriped shirt, which is subtle and evenly\r\nspaced, looks best if the tie has widish stripes rather than thin, evenly spaced\r\nstripes.\r\nKeep the Jines of the patterns the same, or use one directional pattern with one all-over pattern. Because both plaids and stripes have directional lines,\r\nthey usually don't mix well with each other because the lines compete.\r\nHowever, a subtle stripe can mix with a bolder stripe or a subtle checked\r\nshirt can mix with a plaid tie because the lines are similar. Foulard, paisley,\r\nand club ties are all-over patterns, as are tweed, herringbone, tiny box checks,\r\nor very subtle glen plaids in suits. These patterns can often mix with stripes or plaids. Two all-over patterns can mix as well, as long as one is subtle and\r\nthe other stronger, or one is large and the other smaller.\r\nHere are examples of combining a patterned suit or coat and tie with a solid shirt:\r\nPinstriped suit; striped, foulard, or dot tie; solid shirt. Chalkstriped suit; heavier pattern in stripes, foulard, or dot tie;\r\nsolid shirt.\r\nSeersucker suit; club, foulard, or soft, wider-striped tie; solid shirt. Subtle business tweed or herringbone suit; striped or foulard tie;\r\nsolid shirt.\r\nHeavy tweed sport coat; wider-striped, ribbed knit, or club tie;\r\nsolid shirt; solid pants.\r\nWool houndstooth pants; subtle striped or ribbed knit tie; solid\r\nshirt; solid coat.\r\n\r\n170/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nHere are examples of combining a patterned suit and shirt with a solid\r\ntie:\r\nPinstriped suit; subtle hairline-striped or soft oxford-striped shirt;\r\nsolid tie. Chalkstriped suit; subtle oxford-striped or thin-striped shirt; solid\r\ntie. Tweed sport coat; subtle tattersall checked shirt; solid tie. Herringbone suit; pale striped shirt; solid tie.\r\nHere are examples of combining a solid suit, patterned shirt, and\r\npatterned tie:\r\nSolid suit; subtle hairline-striped shirt; striped or foulard tie. Solid suit; subtle oxford-striped shirt; irregularly wider-striped,\r\nfoulard, or club tie. Solid suit; subtle plaid shirt; wider-striped or plaid tie, or ribbed\r\nknit where the texture appears patterned.\r\nSolid suit; subtle tattersall checked shirt; club tie. Solid suit; white-on-white shirt; any patterned tie.\r\nAny patterned shirt that is not subtle should be worn with a solid tie. DON'T: COMBINE THREE PATTERNS\r\nThere is no quicker way to ruin your image than to clutter yourself with too many\r\npatterns. You automatically draw the eye away from your face and call attention\r\nto the clothes. True, if you are terribly clever you might come up with some good\r\npattern combinations. However, they will look better on the hanger than under\r\nCOMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/171\r\nyour face. Each pattern competes with the other and the eye has to move around\r\ntrying to decipher the picture. Your impact is diminished.\r\nDO: STRIVE FOR CONTRAST\r\nIt always looks best to have contrast between suit and shirt, shirt and tie. Think\r\nhow boring a man looks in a gray suit, a white shirt, and the same color gray tie. But change that tie to red, navy, black, or even charcoal gray, and you have an\r\nentirely different impression!\r\nThere are two ways to create contrast: dark and light, or light and bright. Some\r\nmen need more contrast than others, depending on their season. A blue shirt with\r\na medium blue tie offers medium contrast; a white shirt with a navy tie offers\r\nhigh contrast. The first is fine for Summers, the latter for Winters. All men need\r\nsome degree of contrast to look exciting.\r\nContrast is the way to successfully pull off a monochromatic look. Mix a dark\r\nbrown suit, beige shirt, and coffee tie —elegant. Even though the colors are all from the brown family, they offer varying degrees of intensity.\r\nThere are three basic combinations:\r\nWith a dark suit, wear a light shirt and a bright, medium, or dark tie. With a medium suit, wear a light shirt and a dark tie. With a light suit, wear a medium shirt and a dark tie. A medium shirt might\r\nbe an end-on-end weave, which is darker than an oxford cloth. Winters, who\r\ncan't wear medium shirts, wear a white or striped shirt and a dark or brightish\r\ntie. DO: COMRINE COMPATIRLE FABRICS\r\nFabric varies in three ways: weight, texture, and finish.\r\nThe weight of a fabric depends on its content and the density of its weave. In\r\nwool suits, winter weights can be heavy and thick (up to twelve ounces). The\r\nyear-round wools are medium and thinner (eight to ten ounces). Lighter weights,\r\ncalled tropicals, are thin and may be wool, cotton, linen, or blends.\r\nTexture is determined by the nubbiness of a fabric. Knits, tweeds, and corduroys\r\nare heavily textured. Worsteds, tightly woven wools, fine cotton, and silk are generally smooth in texture.\r\n172/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nFinish has to do with the sheen of fabrics. Finishes range from such flat matte\r\nfinishes as a flannel suit, an oxford cloth shirt, or a wool tie to the high sheen in\r\na silk tie. When combining the weight, texture, and finish of a coat or suit, shirt, and tie,\r\nkeep Jikes with likes. Heavy goes with heavyish, nubby goes with matte, smooth\r\ngoes with a sheen. A tweed jacket (nubby matte finish) goes with a knit (matte\r\nfinish) wool tie, and a solid worsted suit (smooth) with a silk tie (sheen).\r\nHere are examples of appropriate fabric combinations:\r\nA nubby tweed sport coat; an oxford cloth shirt; a medium-weight\r\ntextured knit tie. A smooth worsted formal suit; a silk or fine broadcloth shirt; a\r\nsilk tie. A lightweight poplin summer suit; either an oxford or broadcloth\r\nshirt; a cotton madras tie. Corduroy pants; a heavy flannel shirt.\r\nIn the springtime, when you bring out your lighter-weight, smooth-finish wool\r\nsuit, it would be inappropriate to wear your heavy wool, loose-weave tie, even\r\nif the color is right. The weight and texture are wrong. That suit may be worn\r\nwith either a tightly woven lightweight wool tie or a silk tie. DON'T: MIX STYLES OF CLOTHING\r\nClothing automatically has a style. It is dressy or casual, woodsy or executive,\r\ncity or country, faddish or classic, depending on its color, line, fabric, and pattern.\r\nObviously you would not wear a corduroy jacket with your pinstriped pants. But\r\nthere are subtler combinations that clash and ruin your image, too. CoJor that is bright tends to be sporty, casual, or festive. Bright colors are only\r\nbusinesslike when used as accents, such as stripes in a tie. Pastels are fashion\r\ncolors when worn in suits or sport coats, but are conservative in business shirts.\r\nDark colors are classic business and traditional country sports colors.\r\nCOMBINING COAT, SHIRT, AND TIE/173\r\nPatterns can be either conservative or sporty. Subtle patterns are classic, bold\r\nones are sporty. Plaid, paisley, and club tie patterns are sporty. Striped, polka\u0002dot, and foulard patterns are more formal. However, some striped ties are casual,\r\nand some parsleys are more formal, depending on their colors, and their fabric.\r\nFabric is also dressy or casual. Knits and tweeds are sporty. Worsteds and silks are dressy. A silk shirt would never be worn with a nubby knit tie. The cut or styling line of a garment determines a lot about its character. That\r\nis why a European cut suit in a fine flat wool and conservative color does not go\r\nwith an oxford cloth button-down shirt. The styles clash, and so do the textures.\r\nThe suit demands a clean line and a fine, smooth texture; the button-down has\r\na chunky line and a rough texture. Similarly, bellbottom pants don't go with a tapered double-breasted blazer. A collar pin in a business shirt looks wrong with\r\na tweed sport coat.\r\nSUMMARY\r\nHere is a summary of the do's and don'ts of successfully combining\r\nyour coat, shirt, and tie:\r\nDo: Buy only colors from your chart\r\nDo: Combine three solids\r\nDo: Combine two solids with one pattern\r\nDo: Combine one solid with two noncompeting patterns\r\nDon't: Combine three patterns\r\nDo: Strive for contrast\r\nDo: Combine compatible fabrics\r\nDon't: Mix styles of clothing\r\nNow that you know the rules for putting your clothes and your colors together,\r\nyou are ready to begin refining your look and thinking about your personal style.\r\n12JL. mm\r\nCHAPTER\r\n•\r\nYOUR CLOTHING\r\nPERSONALITY\r\nWhile attending a formal rehearsal dinner, I was introduced to some\r\nof the groom's college buddies who had flown in from New York for the occasion.\r\nAll worked on Wall Street and all wore collar pins—popular in New York. One\r\nyoung man was a former football player, short and stocky, with sandy crew-cut\r\nhair and a rough, craggy face still sporting scars from his days on the field. His\r\npink broadcloth, round-collared shirt with collar pin looked strikingly wrong.\r\nThis ruggedly masculine face and body was out of character in such a formal,\r\nelegant, and fashion-oriented shirt. For him, a plain-collared broadcloth shirt\r\n—\r\nminus pin—would have looked formal, harmonious, and flattering.\r\nWhat is your clothing personality? As you go through life you begin to get a\r\nfeel for what clothing styles really are you. Perhaps you long for the David Niven\r\ncountry gentlemen look, but your body and face call for the John Wayne image\r\n—\r\nrugged and casual. Maybe you feel you must have a pinstriped suit, but you never\r\nfeel good in it and never receive compliments while wearing it. There's a reason\r\nfor this.\r\nTo really look good, your clothes must reflect not only your inner spirit but\r\nalso your physical self. Doesn't it make sense that your coloring, your build, and\r\nyour facial structure would play a part in determining your best clothing image?\r\nInner spirit counts, too, but not to the point that you spoil your natural qualities\r\nby trying to be something you are not.\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/175\r\nYou don't ever have to wear anything that doesn't flatter you just to fit a mold.\r\nWhether it's a social or corporate image you seek, you can always dress appro\u0002priately without sacrificing your best look.\r\nYour season gives you the first clue about your image because your coloring\r\nand the colors you wear automatically make a statement. In general, a Winter\r\nlooks best in solid colors, sharp contrasts, and a crisp silhouette—a rather formal\r\nlook. A Summer man is more flattered by gentler contrasts, subtler patterns, and\r\nslightly softer fabrics. The Autumn man, with his warm coloring, looks especially\r\ngood in tweeds, plaids, and rich, nubby fabrics, sophisticated but casual, while\r\nSpring is best in informal, relaxed clothing, also textured but always youthful,\r\nwith colorful striped or checked shirts and ties. But what if you are a Winter with light brown hair, blue eyes, a slight build,\r\nand a boyish face? You might not look your best when dressed in formal three\u0002piece suits with boldly striped ties. If you are a tall, slim Spring with elegantly\r\nrefined facial features and smooth, white-blond hair, you are more formal and\r\nsleek than the casual Spring man described above.\r\nSo you need to take into consideration not only your seasonal coloring but also\r\nyour size, body structure, and facial features.\r\nCLOTHING TYPES\r\nThere are five basic clothing personality types: Dramatic, Romantic, Natural, Clas\u0002sic, and Gamin. These clothing images are not absolute and they may overlap,\r\nbut depending on your individual personality, lifestyle, and work environment,\r\nyou can use them to influence your clothing selections in order to look and feel\r\nyour best.\r\nDramatic\r\nYou are a man of design, style, detail, and sharp contrasts. The dramatic man is authoritative, innovative, assertive. Everything about his appearance makes a bold\r\nstatement; his clothes are of the latest fashion, but not faddish.\r\nThe man who can wear dramatic attire is usually tall and lean, sometimes very\r\nthin, with broad, horizontal shoulders. Your body tends to have long, vertical\r\nlines rather than a chunky look, and your hair is dark or strikingly blond or gray.\r\nNothing about you is middle of the road. You have angular facial features, perhaps\r\na sharply pointed nose or chin, and an angular body. You have a certain elegance\r\nabout you, and walk with large strides and a confident air. You have built-in\r\n176/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nauthority by virtue of your size and striking coloring. Your looks call for you to dress with authority, sophistication, and a degree of formality. In general, you\r\nwear bold or dark colors mixed with your season's white for maximum contrast.\r\nOn you. more is still conservative. Relative to your size and coloring, more still looks like less. Even your hair can be a bit long, but must be styled and controlled,\r\ndefinitely in touch with the latest fashion.\r\nBUSINESS CLOTHES: You can easily achieve the corporate image, but your tall,\r\nthin body just doesn't call for a two-piece sack suit. On you it looks dumpy. For\r\nbusiness or dress you look best in a boldly structured silhouette, such as a Eu\u0002ropean- or updated American-cut suit with a constructed shoulder (maybe even\r\nroped and squarish), an average width lapel, vertical seams in the jacket, a slightly\r\nfitted waist, and a vest. You may wear a single or double vent, depending on your\r\npersonality and job environment. Your style calls for cuffless pants unless your\r\nlegs are so long that you want to minimize them. For social occasions you may\r\nwant to buy a double-breasted suit. If your work allows you the freedom to be a\r\nlittle more stylish, do so. On you, less conservative clothes still Jook conservative\r\nbecause they are in harmony with your body type.\r\nYou look best in a dark, solid three-piece suit in navy, charcoal gray, or brown,\r\ndepending on your season, worn with crisp white or light shirts. You are also the\r\nperfect candidate for pinstriped suits —either one quarter or one half inch, which\u0002ever is more harmonious with your size. High-contrast prints —such as a light\r\npinstripe on a dark background—are appropriately sharp on you, but you find\r\nmost checks and plaids too blended or casual. A bold plaid in dark colors and a rough fabric could work for you. You don't wear tweeds well because they offer so little contrast, though a striking herringbone might be all right for variety.\r\nYou wear stiffer fabrics, such as heavy gabardine or smooth worsteds, with a firm finish and a crisp silhouette. No flannels for you—at least not the kind that\r\nlook fuzzy. You're a formal fellow, really, and not very soft around the edges.\r\nDRESSY SPORTSWEAR: You dress boldly in sportswear, too. and favor ex- tremes—either solid, dark-colored blazers (maybe even double-breasted) or a heavily textured or patterned sport coat (say, a bold houndstooth check). Subtle\r\ntweeds just fade away on you. Pleated wool pants are great on you, though you\r\ncan wear nonpleated slacks just as well. You will always wear wool or cotton\r\npants rather than cords or jeans with your sport coat.\r\n\r\n178/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSHIRTS: You look best in a crisp, light shirt (solid white, light pastel, or icy)\r\nwith a plain pointed collar, either regular or wide spread. Choose cotton broad\u0002cloth with a hard finish for the sharpest look. Also excellent on you are bold\r\nstripes, hairline stripes, and bold plaids. A colored shirt with a contrasting white\r\ncollar and cuff might work—probably with a stripe, and usually best for Winters\r\n—\r\nand you may want to wear a collar pin once in a while. You practically never wear oxford cloth button-downs, knits, or checks or muted plaids. You tend to dress up a little more than the next fellow, and French cuffs are your thing.\r\nTIES: Your ties must always make a strong statement and offer sharp contrast to your shirt, though you can also wear a monochromatic look with a shirt and tie from the same color family. Solid colors, especially dark or bright reds, are ex\u0002cellent. Your best patterns are stripes with bold contrasts, either a widely spaced\r\npinstripe or widish stripes irregularly spaced. An overall geometric pattern is good. A foulard is usually not expressive enough for you, but it may work if you\r\nchoose one with a repeat pattern of high contrast and sharp lines (diamonds rather\r\nthan circles). Any dot pattern should be extreme, preferably with large dots\r\n—\r\nmedium looks boring on you. Any pattern you choose should offer contrast within\r\nthe tie. Plaids and checks are too casual for you, and club ties are too conservative.\r\nYou look great in a silk tie with a sheen. One word of caution: be careful not to ruin your look with loud ties that are not tasteful. A dramatic look simply calls\r\nfor more contrast, darker or brighter colors, straight rather than curved lines in\r\npatterns.\r\nSHOES: For work, your shoes are smooth, highly polished oxfords with a medium\r\nto thin sole and a slightly pointed toe without wing tip. These shoes are okay for\r\ndressy sportswear, too, though you might want a dressy loafer.\r\nCASUAL WEAR: The Dramatic man always likes to make a fashion statement\r\nand dresses in outfits. For horseback riding you have riding clothes; for on the\r\ncourt, tennis whites. Your casual clothes can be stripes or solids, again offering\r\ncontrast, or brightly colored polo shirts. You are a man of extremes in texture and\r\nexpression. If you are conservative, keep your casual clothes relatively formal\r\nwith nonpleated slacks in wools (cold weather) or cottons and gabardines. Less\r\nconservative types can wear pleats and suspenders, baggy chinos, or funkier cloth-\r\ning. Jeans are your least best look just because they are so average. Wear designer\r\njeans or tight jeans or baggy jeans. Choose sweaters of heavy cable knits or geo\u0002metric patterns or stripes, either form-fitting or on the baggy side. If a pair of silk\r\nlounging pajamas and a smoking jacket really appeal to you, you know you have\r\na Dramatic's flair.\r\nCOATS: Your topcoat might be either a dark double-breasted overcoat of cash\u0002mere or fine wool or a heavily textured wraparound with a tie belt. Your trenchcoat\r\ncan't be ordinary. Skip the Burberry and go for something with a bold silhouette.\r\nThink oversize for coats. Wear anything big and bulky—you can carry it off! An\r\nextremely padded shoulder or a dropped shoulder make a strong fashion state- ment for you, and dark colors work well.\r\nJEWELRY: Any jewelry you wear should look important. Your watch should be\r\nlarge rather than slimline, with either a textured leather or a metal band. You\r\nmight wear a ring with a stone or large cuff links that make a statement. Nothing\r\ndinky for you.\r\nFORMAL: A tuxedo looks great on you. If you are a Winter you'll stick to a black\r\ntux because it looks so dashing on you, but you could wear an unusual color\r\n—\r\nburgundy, dark navy, dark brown, or even a very light color, depending on your\r\nseason. DRAMATIC PROTOTYPES: Sean Connery, Errol Flynn, Clark Gable, Burt Lan\u0002caster, Ricardo Montalban, Charlton Heston, Jack Palance, George Hamilton\r\nRomantic\r\nYou are the man who calls for a rich, luxurious, welJ-biended look. The Romantic\r\nis a Romeo—a lover, not a fighter. You're gracious and suave, with the air of an\r\nartist or poet about you. Very sensual and very social, you have expensive tastes and a bit of theatrical flair. Everything about you suggests wealth, sophistication,\r\nand the bedroom. The Romantic is a people person and can be found in highly\r\nvisible positions—both at work and at play. In general, you're naturally interested\r\nin fashion and grooming, and you need to restrain your flamboyance rather than\r\nstrive for an energetic look.\r\n180/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThe Romantic man is moderately tall with an athletic but not overdeveloped\r\nbuild—strong but not bulky. Romantics tend to have beautiful eyes and skin and\r\nthick hair—curly, wavy, or straight, but always luxurious. Your face is expressive\r\nand well-proportioned, important to your overall look. Sophisticated and sexy,\r\nyou're influenced by current fashions and have a love of soft fabrics and luxurious\r\ncolors. A rather formal dresser, you choose clothes fitted to show off your body\r\nsymmetry; all detail serves to frame your face.\r\nBUSINESS CLOTHES: If you work in a field that allows for less conservative\r\ndress, you can really go for a high-fashion look. A fitted European-cut suit is your\r\nbest look, with either double vents or no vent (a single vent is too boxy for you).\r\nPadded shoulders and a very suppressed waist flatter your lithe silhouette. A\r\ndouble-breasted jacket is good for you, too. If your profession requires a conser\u0002vative image, choose the updated American-cut suit, with a suppressed waist and\r\npadded shoulder. Leave off the vest—it's a boring look for you. Avoid sharp lines\r\nin favor of a smooth, slightly curved silhouette. Choose fine wools and cashmere\r\nrather than stiff fabrics or gabardine. Soft, lightweight woolens suit your look and\r\nyour expensive tastes. Your favorite textured fabric will be very soft; your favorite\r\ncolors are the richest (not darkest) colors of your palette—lush colors of medium\r\nintensity such as rich navy or warm coffee brown. For suits, solids are best, though\r\nstripes in soft textures and woven-in designs can work well for you. Patterns, if any, should be in a small scale, and plaids aren't really for you.\r\nDRESSY SPORTSWEAR: This is your best style—the clothes in which you are most comfortable. The Romantic favors elegant sportswear—a fitted cashmere\r\njacket, for example. He avoids patterned sport coats or any highly contrasting\r\nseparates. He wears trendy looks—Italian sportswear that is fitted to the body.\r\nPleated pants are fine as long as they are fairly fitted in the hips and buttocks.\r\nYou enjoy special jackets, such as one that's short and fitted in a buttery leather, or something long and draped and stylish. Soft wool, suede, and silk make ex- cellent jackets for you.\r\nSHIRTS: Since your face is one of your best features, unusual collars are your\r\nforte. Collar pins or lapel pins are excellent on you, as are round collars, wing\r\ncollars, or any very high collars. For corporate attire, wear an unstarched standard\r\ncollar in a thin, smooth broadcloth, and in other professions choose a fabric such\r\n\r\n182/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nas silk or cotton batiste. Avoid overly crisp shirts —they are cold for a Romantic.\r\nDo wear some color, rather than white, but stick mostly to solids. Stripes are not\r\nyour best look unless they are very well-blended and soft. French cuffs suit your\r\nformal and sophisticated look. v\r\nTIES: Go for silk, either shiny or raw (matte), in a well-blended design—never\r\na knit or woven tie. Solids are your absolute best. Since your overall look is harmonious, choose a tie that is in medium contrast to your shirt, either solids or a pattern that has colors from both your jacket and shirt. In patterns, stripes\r\nmust be well-blended and paisleys are best in shiny silk with a watercolor effect. Foulards are not the Romantic's best look because they are too crisp and pre\u0002dictable. If you need them for corporate wear, choose repeat patterns in teardrop\r\nor oval shapes. Pin dots on shiny silk are good, but avoid medium or large dots.\r\nAvoid patterns with rigid structures or defined edges. Unusual ties —narrow ones,\r\nfor example—are good.\r\nSHOES: Never one to wear a heavy oxford or wing tips, you will choose a light\u0002weight Italian-look shoe with a thin sole, or an elegant boot of very fine, soft\r\nleather or suede.\r\nCASUAL WEAR: Both elegant and trendy, your casual wear should look expen\u0002sive and reflect your sophisticated flamboyance. You wear designer jeans, smooth\r\nleather pants, wing-collared shirts, and fashion colors. Choose a short leather\r\njacket with epaulets or a military jacket with lots of detail.\r\nCOATS: Overcoats must have shape and a fitted silhouette. Padded shoulders\r\nare important, and wrap belts work well. Choose soft woolens or cashmere if possible.\r\nJEWELRY: Used as an accent and not overdone, jewelry is great on the Romantic\r\nman—a collar bar or a ring with a stone, for example, but no heavy neck chains.\r\nYour watch is a simple, but elegant, slim line with either a metal or smooth leather\r\nband. Think tasteful and subtle.\r\nFORMAL: A truly formal look, though flattering, can look too severe on you.\r\nAlthough a fussy look doesn't suit you, you can take some liberties with your\r\nformal look—a jeweled lapel pin, a white tux, or a red tie and cummerbund. Tails\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/183\r\nand a fitted waist in your formal jacket work for you. If the occasion allows, try\r\nsomething different, such as a velvet jacket and silk shirt over designer jeans.\r\nROMANTIC PROTOTYPES: Christopher Atkins, Richard Gere, Michael Jackson,\r\nSugar Ray Leonard, John Schneider, Omar Sharif, Billy Dee Williams, Michael\r\nYork, Elvis Presley, Lorenzo Lamas\r\nNatural\r\nYou are the man who calls for textures, tweeds, informality, and a blended look.\r\nThe Natural man is usually of sturdy or athletic build. Your face may be craggy\r\nwith irregular features, or perhaps you have a square jaw and wide-set eyes or simply a rugged and outdoorsy look. You might have freckles, and your hair is rarely glossy. Your stride is easy and you have a down-to-earth look about you.\r\nThe Natural is an informal dresser who is rarely comfortable all dressed up and\r\ngets the most compliments in jeans and sweaters. You look best in casual, relaxed\r\nclothing and in the colors from your palette that are closest to nature, especially\r\nthe browns, greens, and blues. Your hair is loose and wavy, or short, straight, and\r\nlayered—casual rather than overly controlled, and always with the dry look. And\r\nyou're the guy who can wear a beard or mustache well.\r\nRUSINESS CLOTHES: A two-piece suit is better for you than a three-piece, which\r\nlooks overly formal and stuffy on you. Your suit should be fuller cut, with a relaxed\r\nshoulder. If you are athletic but thin, you will have to buy a slimmer cut suit, but\r\nit should not be tapered too much at the waist. You would never wear trendy\r\ncuts in suits.\r\nYour best suits for work are solid flannels in a medium color, or perhaps a subtle glen plaid, check, tweed, or other pattern. Dark solids may look severe on\r\nyou, and pinstripes are definitely too formal and stiff. (You can survive in the\r\nbusiness world without owning a pinstripe!) At most you would wear a subtle\r\nchalk stripe, preferably in colors without much contrast.\r\nYour best fabrics are heavyish with some texture and always a matte (nonshiny)\r\nfinish or a nap: flannel, corduroy, and looser weaves. Nothing shiny, fancy, or too formal.\r\nDRESSY SPORTSWEAR: If your work environment allows for slacks and sport\r\ncoats, so much the better. You are better looking in a sport coat than in a suit.\r\n184/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nThink texture. A corduroy jacket or a heavy wool, tweed, or check are your best\r\nlooks. A camel jacket is ideal for you if you are an Autumn or Spring. Your best\r\ndress-up attire is sportswear whenever possible, and you can be quite natty in a country tweed with leather patches on the elbows and perhaps a turtleneck in\u0002stead of a shirt and tie. Patch pockets and topstitching really are your look.\r\nSHIRTS: You are best in oxford cloth for work and for social occasions except\r\nwhen the event calls for formal attire. Broadcloth is dress-up for you. Button\u0002down collars are great for you, but no round collars or collar pins. They're too\r\nfancy and lack the masculinity needed to look harmonious with your face and\r\nbody. Plaids and checks are your best patterns. Subtle, blended, broad stripes are okay, but no severe or formal hairline stripes.\r\nTIES: You go for less sharp contrast in your coat, shirt, and tie combinations.\r\nThe monochromatic look—using colors from the same color family in varying\r\ndegrees of intensity—is ideal for the Natural. Your best tie patterns are plaids\r\nand checks or wide stripes in muted colors creating a blended look. Foulard ties\r\nwith square designs are better than rounds or ovals. No dots for you—they're too\r\nformal. Paisleys are sophisticated yet natural, especially in the warm palettes,\r\nand are a good dress look for the Natural man. Texture and matte finishes are again wonderful. Ribbed knits, wools, nubby linen (in summer), and nonshiny\r\nsilks are best.\r\nSHOES: Shoes for the Natural are a dressy loafer for business and a more casual one for sportswear. You might wear a textured leather oxford with a heavy sole,\r\nwing tip, and topstitching, or perhaps even a saddle shoe with your tweed sport\r\ncoat. Your shoes have a widish American toe rather than a European look.\r\nCASUAL WEAR: Casual wear is your thing. You may prefer to wear the colors\r\nclosest to nature in your palette, and you definitely wear natural fabrics such as linen looks and cotton. Wear khakis, cords, and jeans with turtlenecks, plaid\r\nflannel shirts, button-downs, or short-sleeved cottons and T-shirts for warm\r\nweather. As usual for you, plaids, checks, and solids in nubby fabrics are best.\r\nYour sweaters are crewnecks or bulky, textured pullovers. No argyles or fancy\r\npatterns. Nonshiny leather is best for boots, belts, or any accessories.\r\n\r\n186/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nCOATS: You may not want a topcoat because they're so formal, and you can wear your trenchcoat almost anywhere now anyway. If you do want a wool top\u0002coat, choose a double- or single-breasted camel polo if you're a warm season, or\r\na single-breasted beige or blue if you're a cool season. Shaggy furs or shearling\r\nsuit you well, as do nonshiny leathers such as sheepskin. Your trenchcoat is either\r\nthe single-breasted simple one with raglan sleeves or a traditional military trench\r\nwith epaulets and heavy trim. If you are a thin and lanky Natural, forget the\r\ngewgaws; they'll overwhelm you.\r\nJEWELRY: Jewelry, if any, would be heavy and masculine—but probably you\r\ndon't wear any. Your watch should not be too thin, and could have a leather strap\r\nrather than a metal band.\r\nFORMAL: A tuxedo is your least favorite item of clothing. Choose a simple pleated\r\nshirt in the color of your season and, if possible, a tuxedo in your color as well.\r\nFor other social occasions, the Natural man can always dress in sportier attire\r\nthan the Dramatic or Classic man. On you, a beautiful sport coat, wool slacks, a\r\nshirt, and a tie looks dressy. For weddings, funerals, and formal affairs, wear your\r\nsuit in a medium color rather than a dark one. NATURAL PROTOTYPES: Alan Alda, Harrison Ford, Bruce Jenner, Calvin Klein,\r\nJoe Namath, O. J. Simpson, John Wayne, Robert Redford, Tom Selleck, Clint East\u0002wood, Michael Landon, Robert Conrad, Gene Hackman, John Riggins\r\nClassic\r\nThe Classic man's looks call for simplicity, quality, and moderation.\r\nYour body is of average proportions, not too tall or short, neither lanky nor extremely muscular. Your facial features are evenly proportioned and regular,\r\nwith no prominent features such as a big nose or a very square jaw. Your face\r\nhas refined features and your coloring is medium. Everything about you is so- phisticated and moderate. Your demeanor is conservative, poised, slightly formal,\r\nbut not stuffy. Nothing you wear should be extreme in style, fabric, texture, or\r\ncolor. Simplicity of line and detail suit you best. You are the traditional type, a fashion conservative. Because you do not look good in fads, gimmicks, or high\u0002fashion clothes, or in any form of bold or extreme patterns, you must rely on fine\r\nfabric and beautifully tailored, conservative clothes. You cannot get away with\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/187\r\nrumpled or ill-fitting clothing. You must look fastidious, even if it's not truly your\r\nnature. You look best with a relatively short, conservative hairstyle —always\r\ncombed and neatly in place.\r\nBUSINESS CLOTHES: For business you wear two-piece suits on most days,\r\nreserving three-piece suits for important meetings or dressy occasions. You wear\r\nthe traditional Ivy League suit (Brooks Brothers) or, if you are slim, the updated\r\nAmerican silhouette. Choose a suit with a relaxed, unstructured shoulder but\r\nslightly trimmer at the waist. You don't want topstitching or any sporty or faddish\r\ndetails.\r\nBecause Classic represents the middle value in body type, size, and coloring,\r\nyou look great in most classic patterns as long as they are moderate in scale and\r\ncontrast—a subdued pinstripe or chalk stripe, for example, or a small check or medium-scaled, subtle plaid. Your season dictates your best patterns: Winters in\r\nstripes, windowpanes, and herringbones; Summers in stripes and soft tweeds;\r\nAutumns in tweeds and plaids; Springs in plaids and checks. Solids are excellent\r\nfor all. Your best fabrics are light- to medium-weight worsteds or very thin, tightly\r\nwoven flannels and tweeds with a firm finish.\r\nDRESSY SPORTSWEAR: Your first sport coat is a solid single-breasted blazer\r\nin a nice wool fabric. Next is a herringbone or tweed in a fairly fine texture. You\r\ndo not wear heavily textured or boldly patterned fabrics well, even in sportswear.\r\nClassic styles in wool slacks are for you—no exaggerated pleats, flared legs, or trendy items. You might wear tweed, checked, or plaid wool slacks for a bit of\r\ndash.\r\nSHIRTS: You go for an understated look, and are best in white or solid pastel\r\nshirts (especially blue) in oxford button-down for day and broadcloth plain collars\r\nfor evening or special occasions. For a natty look, you might wear a collar pin or\r\na colored shirt with a white collar. You don't wear many patterned shirts, save an occasional subtle stripe or a white on white. Although plaids and checks are not your thing, you can wear a tattersall check with a solid blazer for sport. In\r\ngeneral, you'll wear a shirt and tie rather than a turtleneck with your sport coat\r\nfor special events.\r\n\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/189\r\nTIES: Your tie is also conservative, but does not have to be dull. Foulard ties are your best pattern, with the repeats in oval or rounded shapes. You can wear thin,\r\nevenly spaced stripes, or irregular stripes in moderate widths and traditional\r\ncolors. Club ties are great, especially with a sport coat, but most plaids or checks\r\nare too casual and sporty for you. A silk tie is your best fabric, though thin wools\r\nand linens (in summer) are fine, too. Either a matte or a slight sheen works well\r\non you. A slight sheen is best as a dressy look. Never wear any loud or boldly\r\npatterned tie; there is nothing eccentric about your body, so you can't wear ec- centric clothing.\r\nSHOES: Shoes for business are lace-up oxfords with a medium sole and an Amer\u0002ican wide-cut toe, with or without wing tips. The leather can be smooth or lightly\r\ntextured. If you're the elegant type, you might wear a smooth oxford with a Eu\u0002ropean toe, especially for dress. For sportswear you wear your oxfords or a dressy\r\nloafer.\r\nCASUAL WEAR: The Classic man's casual clothes are crisp and clean. Wool or cotton pants, ironed blue jeans (if any) with oxford cloth button-downs in the\r\nwintertime and polo shirts in the summertime. You might even be preppy and\r\ninclined toward plaid pants if you're not too conservative. Although you will\r\nprobably not wear funky, way-out colors in sport shirts, you can wear fun colors\r\nin basic reds, blues, greens, and yellows.\r\nCOATS: Your best topcoat is a single-breasted wool with simple details—no\r\ntopstitching, epaulets, etc. Your trenchcoat may be single- or double-breasted, but\r\nagain with simple styling and no gimmicks. The traditional Burberry coat is your\r\nlook as well.\r\nJEWELRY: Jewelry for the Classic is tasteful, refined, and minimal. A thin watch\r\nwith a metal or smooth leather band works well for you. A class ring is okay, but no bracelets or neck chains.\r\nFORMAL: You look great in a tuxedo because it gives you the opportunity to dress like a Dramatic but within the confines of tradition. You look better in\r\naverage lapels rather than the ones that point upwards toward the shoulder.\r\n190/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nChoose pleated shirts rather than ruffles. You also look great dressed up in a three-piece suit, which adds variety to your usual two-piece or business look.\r\nCLASSIC PROTOTYPES: Richard Crenna, John Forsythe, Cary Grant, Gregory\r\nPeck, Phil Donahue, Robert Young, Henry Fonda, Bing Crosby, Anthony Perkins,\r\nJerry Brown, John Glenn, Bryant Gumbel\r\nGamin\r\nYou are the man whose look is dapper, natty, crisp and very structured. The\r\nGamin man, small in stature, is flashy and full of energy, and is by nature quite\r\nprecise about the way he dresses.\r\nThe Gamin has a boyish face and body and a jaunty stride, and is perpetually\r\nyoung-looking. You are a rather formal dresser and tend to be trendy and fashion\r\nconscious with an eye for detail. You need to buy smaller patterns, scaled to your\r\nsize so they don't overwhelm your look. Though youthful-looking, your clothes\r\nare always fitted and neat. Your hair may be curly and tousled or straight and\r\nlayered, but a long, slick style is not for you.\r\nBUSINESS CLOTHES: You look great in a three-piece updated American cut\r\nsuit, especially in a bright and crisp glen plaid. Small patterns such as herring\u0002bones are great. The Gamin man can wear solids for contrast to his patterned\r\nshirts and ties. He should avoid dull, dark colors. Pinstripes are too rigid for you,\r\nbut an irregular stripe might work. Choose stiff, crisp fabrics—tightly woven wor\u0002steds, gabardines, or cotton blends.\r\nDRESSY SPORTSWEAR: A jacket and dress slacks is a great look for the effer- vescent Gamin, since he favors a look that's youthful, fitted, and fashionable.\r\nStrive for a crisp, snappy look—say, your season's navy blazer, white pants, and\r\nan argyle sweater vest. Choose hard-finish wool fabrics, crisp cottons, or corduroys\r\nand keep your tweeds, checks, and plaids in small scale. You look great in touches\r\nof color, such as stripes or checks in sportswear and casual clothes. Combining\r\npatterns, such as a striped shirt and striped tie, is a smart look for you.\r\nSHIRTS: Gamins choose colors more than whites, and also favor plaids and\r\nchecks with contrast rather than a muted look. Colorful stripes work well on you,\r\nas do tattersalls, and colored or patterned shirts with a contrasting white collar.\r\n\r\n192/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nYou would choose a pattern over a solid most of the time, except with a patterned\r\nsuit. Always wear crisp, neatly pressed cottons and strive for high contrast in\r\nyour clothing combinations.\r\nTIES: In patterns, choose colorful stripes or club ties with a highly contrasting\r\nmotif. Use solid-color ties to offer high contrast and a snappy accent to a patterned\r\nshirt or suit. Choose a matte rather than a shiny finish. Avoid pin dots—they're\r\ntoo formal, but a medium dot might work for you. Foulards work if the pattern\r\noffers colorful contrast. Squares are better than ovals. A Gamin is the man who\r\ncan successfully wear a bow tie.\r\nSHOES: You'll probably want a dressy loafer for business and perhaps a more\r\ncasual pair for sportswear. Gamins love detail. Wear tassels and buckles on your\r\nshoes.\r\nCASUAL WEAR: Gamins will go for color in their casual wear, used as stylish\r\naccent or detail. You are a pressed and organized dresser even in your casual wear. Wear argyle sweaters, pleated pants, and saddle shoes. Cuffed pants look\r\ngood on you because they add crisp lines. (Don't worry if your legs are short\r\n—\r\nyour total look is more important.) You need a broken, staccato look because of\r\nyour compact size and high energy level. In casual wear, you can break the rules\r\nand get out of scale with wide stripes and wide-wale cords.\r\nCOATS: Choose a style that's trim and sharp-looking, such as a double-breasted\r\ntrenchcoat or a wool topcoat in solid or small tweed with set-in rather than raglan\r\nsleeves. Epaulets are especially good for the Gamin.\r\nJEWELRY: Gamins may wear a neck chain or ID bracelet, but always something\r\nrestrained. You're too precise to enjoy a large or fancy ring, for example.\r\nFORMAL: You can wear a dark tuxedo well (especially if you're a Winter), since\r\non you the contrast with the shirt looks lively. Although you are an impeccably\r\ncorrect dresser, you hate to be conventional. For variety, try a tux in your color,\r\nwear a vest instead of a cummerbund, or try a plaid cummerbund and tie.\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/193\r\nGAMIN PROTOTYPES: Johnny Carson, Sammy Davis, Jr., Dudley Moore, Ri\u0002chard Pryor, Joel Grey, Richard Simmons, Dick Cavett, Dick Clark, Red Buttons,\r\nRoddy McDowall, Fred Astaire\r\nYOUR OWN BEST LOOK\r\nMany men can look believable in more than one look. Paul Newman's image in\r\na fisherman knit sweater is just as credible as his lawyer image in a three-piece\r\nsuit. Warren Beatty can smooth his hair into a conservative, traditional style and\r\ngo to work at IBM, or wear his hair wavy and loose and hang out in cords and\r\nsweaters, or dress in structured European suits and look dramatic. His looks are so versatile that simply by changing his hair and his demeanor he can pull off\r\nalmost any clothing image.\r\nWhatever image you favor, just be sure it's believable on you. You have un- doubtedly seen someone whose clothing was socially acceptable but looked all wrong on him. Give yourself permission not to buy a tweed sport coat for variety\r\nif you're a formal Winter who will always look best in a solid blazer. Skip the\r\npinstripe if you're a rugged outdoorsman caught in the trappings of a corporate\r\nwork environment. No one will ever notice that you don't own a pinstripe. They'll\r\njust know that you always look nice in what you do have.\r\nUnderstanding your clothing personality takes time and some experimenting.\r\nBut now that you are aware of these general types, you can think a bit more about\r\nwhat really looks good on you the next time you buy clothes.\r\n194/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nDRAMATIC TYPE\r\nBUSINESS\r\nSuits\r\nSquare shoulders\r\nSuppressed waist\r\nSingle, double, or no vent\r\nTwo- or three-piece\r\nPeaked or notched lapels\r\nWorsted wools\r\nGabardine\r\nSilk blends\r\nSolids\r\nBold herringbone\r\nLarge box check\r\nWindowpane\r\nBold plaid (design, not color)\r\nPinstripe\r\n—\r\nV\\ or V2 inch\r\nShirts\r\nBroadcloth\r\nSolids\r\nThin stripe (crisp)\r\nWide stripe\r\nPlain or spread collar\r\nFrench cuffs\r\nTies\r\nSilk-sheen\r\nDark solids\r\nLarge-scale patterns\r\nStripes —sharp contrast Overall geometries\r\nFoulard (high contrast)\r\nAccessories\r\nCollar pin\r\nCuff links\r\nLarge watch\r\nSuspenders\r\nCASUAL\r\nSport Coats v Square shoulders\r\nSingle- or double-breasted\r\nMay be unconstructed\r\nSmooth or very nubby\r\nWool, cotton, silk, blends\r\nSolids\r\nHeavy tweeds\r\nHoundstooth\r\nPants\r\nWool, cotton, firm weave\r\nPlain or pleated\r\nPlain or cuffed\r\nStraight or tapered\r\nShirts\r\nBroadcloth\r\nSolids\r\nBold plaid\r\nBold stripes\r\nSportswear\r\nCostumes (outfits that fit activity\r\nSuspenders\r\nBulky knit sweaters\r\nLounging attire Polo shirts —bright\r\nStripes, geometric patterns\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/195\r\nBUSINESS\r\nSuits\r\nPadded shoulders\r\nSuppressed waist\r\nDouble or no vent\r\nSingle- or double-breasted\r\nTwo-piece\r\nSoft wools, silks, blends\r\nSolids\r\nSubtle stripes\r\nWoven-in designs\r\nShirts\r\nBroadcloth, silk, batiste\r\nSolids\r\nStripe—subtle, blended\r\nPlain or rounded collars\r\nTies\r\nSilk—sheen\r\nMedium-color solids\r\nMedium-scale patterns\r\nStripes—wide, blended\r\nFoulard—rounded patterns\r\nPaisley\r\nAccessories\r\nCollar pin\r\nStickpin\r\nRh.gs\r\nThin chains\r\nSlimline watch\r\nROMANTIC TYPE\r\nCASUAL\r\nSport Coats\r\nSquare or natural shoulders\r\nMay be unconstructed\r\nSingle- or double-breasted\r\nSmooth textures Wool, silk, blends, leather\r\nSolids\r\nPants\r\nNo-wale corduroy, leather\r\nPleated or plain\r\nNo cuffs Tapered\r\nShirts\r\nSilk, batiste\r\nSolids\r\nUnusual collars\r\nSportswear\r\nItalian styling\r\nShort, fitted jackets\r\nVelour warm-ups\r\nSoft sweaters\r\n196/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nNATURAL TYPE\r\nBUSINESS\r\nSuits\r\nNatural shoulders\r\nFull-cut\r\nSlightly suppressed waist (if thin)\r\nSingle vent\r\nSingle-breasted\r\nTwo-piece\r\nFlannel, cotton, linen\r\nTweed\r\nHerringbone\r\nLarge box check\r\nGlen plaid\r\nSubtle chalk stripe\r\nPlaid\r\nShirts\r\nOxford cloth\r\nStripes —wide, subtle\r\nChecks\r\nTattersall Button-down\r\nTies\r\nSilk—matte\r\nRibbed knit\r\nHeavy wool\r\nLinen\r\nMedium-color solids\r\nMedium-scale patterns\r\nStripes—wide, blended\r\nFoulard—square designs\r\nClub\r\nPaisley\r\nPlaid\r\nCASUAL\r\nSport coats Natural shoulders\r\nSingle breasted\r\nNubby textures Wool, cotton, linen, blends, cordu\u0002roy, seersucker\r\nHeavy tweed\r\nHoundstooth\r\nPlaid\r\nElbow patches\r\nPatch pockets\r\nTopstitching\r\nPants\r\nWool, cotton, corduroy, denim\r\nPlain or pleated\r\nPlain or cuffed\r\nStraight or tapered\r\nShirts\r\nOxford, blends, flannel\r\nStripes—wide\r\nPlaid\r\nChecks\r\nSportswear\r\nTurtlenecks\r\nVests\r\nBulky sweaters\r\nBoots\r\nAthletic outfits\r\nAccessories\r\nWatch with leather band\r\nYOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY/197\r\nBUSINESS\r\nSuits\r\nSlightly padded shoulders\r\nSlightly suppressed waist or full cut Single or double vent\r\nSingle-breasted\r\nTwo- or three-piece\r\nWorsted, flannel, cotton, blends\r\nSolids\r\nTweed\r\nHerringbone\r\nSmall box check\r\nWindowpane\r\nGlen plaid\r\nPinstripe\r\n—\r\nVe to lA inch\r\nChalk stripe\r\nShirts\r\nOxford or broadcloth\r\nSolids\r\nSubtle stripes Tattersall Button-down or plain collar\r\nTies\r\nSilk—sheen, matte\r\nWool —smooth\r\nLinen\r\nMedium to dark solids\r\nMedium-scale patterns\r\nStripes —thin, even or medium, un- even\r\nFoulard —rounded, geometric\r\nClub\r\nAccessories\r\nWatch—metal or leather band\r\nClass ring\r\nCollar pin\r\nTYPE\r\nCASUAL\r\nSport Coats\r\nSlightly padded to natural shoulder\r\nSingle- or double-breasted\r\nSmooth textures Solids\r\nSubtle tweed, plaid\r\nHoundstooth\r\nPants\r\nWool, cotton, corduroy (stiff) Plain or cuffed\r\nStraight legs\r\nShirts\r\nOxford, blends\r\nSolids\r\nTattersall Button-down\r\nSportswear\r\nPolo shirts Plaid pants\r\nNautical motifs\r\n198/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nBUSINESS\r\nSuits\r\nSlightly padded shoulders\r\nSlightly suppressed waist\r\nSingle vent\r\nSingle-breasted\r\nTwo- or three-piece\r\nWorsted, cotton, blends\r\nGabardine\r\nSolids\r\nTweed\r\nHerringbone\r\nSmall box checks\r\nGlen plaid\r\nPinstripe\r\n—\r\nVs inch\r\nShirts\r\nBroadcloth\r\nSolids\r\nThin crisp stripes\r\nChecks\r\nTattersall Plain or button-down collar\r\nTies\r\nSilk—matte\r\nRibbed knit\r\nWool—smooth\r\nLinen\r\nBow ties Medium-color solids\r\nSmall-scale patterns\r\nStripes—sharp and/or colorful\r\nFoulard—square, crisp\r\nClub\r\nPlaid\r\nAccessories\r\nWatch—leather band\r\nID bracelet\r\nGAMIN TYPE\r\nCASUAL\r\nSport Coats\r\nSlightly padded shoulder\r\nSingle-breasted\r\nWool, cotton, linen, corduroy\r\nSmooth to slightly nubby\r\nSolids\r\nSubtle tweed\r\nSeersucker\r\nSmall plaid\r\nTopstitching\r\nPatch pockets\r\nPants\r\nCotton, wool gabardine, corduroy,\r\ndenim\r\nPleated or plain\r\nStraight leg\r\nShirts\r\nBroadcloth, oxford, blends\r\nSolids\r\nChecks\r\nTattersall Plaid\r\nSportswear\r\nSweater vest Argyle patterns\r\nSaddle oxfords\r\nSHOPPING\r\nMost men dislike shopping for two reasons. They resent the time\r\ninvolved and they feel unsure of their choices. The Color for Men System will\r\ncut your shopping time to a minimum. And you won't waste any money on a mistake. If you've been depending on someone else to select your clothes, or have\r\nsimply been buying the same items year in and year out, now's the time for you\r\nto discover how to enjoy speedy, successful shopping.\r\nHere are some tips to help make shopping efficient and rewarding.\r\nShop with your colors and look only at items in your colors.\r\nAlways shop with your color chart or fabric swatches. Your eye cannot retain the\r\nmemory of a color for more than a few seconds. You may think you've spotted\r\nyour red tie, only to find when you get home that it's the wrong red. Hold your\r\nchart or swatch against the garment in question. If it blends, it's yours. If it clashes,\r\nput it back.\r\nYour palette works as a general guide, but be particularly careful when choosing\r\ncolors that are difficult for you to wear. Winters should match their taupe (gray\u0002beige) and lemon yellow closely. Summers should match their light lemon yellow\r\nand rose-beige as closely as possible, too. Autumns must take care with their\r\nmarine navy and periwinkle, and Springs should match their grays and navies\r\nclosely. Here fabric swatches will be your best guide, as it is difficult to reproduce\r\ncolors in print with extreme accuracy.\r\nStore lights often distort colors, so look at the item under natural light if pos\u0002sible.\r\n200/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nWhen buying a patterned garment—plaid or tweed, for example—make sure\r\nthe fabric falls within your palette by comparing its overall background color to your solid-color swatch. The effect should be the same in both.\r\nIt's okay if some of the pattern includes bits of colors that are not yours (see\r\nNeil, p. 27). The rule of thumb is not to let that off color ruin your total look.\r\nBear in mind the following:\r\n1. Don't allow the wrong color to dominate.\r\n2. Don't allow the wrong color to force you to buy a tie, belt, or shoes in the\r\nwrong color.\r\n3. Don't wear the wrong color near your face.\r\nFor example, a thread that is not your color may be woven through the background\r\nof a suit. That's okay as long as you don't buy a tie of that color. (It will often\r\nlimit your tie selection.) Or you may find a pair of plaid slacks that contains colors\r\nfrom more than one season. Fine, as long as you can pull your color out for your\r\nshirt.\r\nSay no to clothes that aren't in your colors.\r\nLearn to say \"no\" to items that are not in your colors. Discipline yourself not to even look at them. Decisions will then be easy, you'll save time, and you guarantee\r\nyourself a coordinated wardrobe with myriad clothing combinations. The minute\r\nyou add one off-color item, you complicate your wardrobe plan, and getting\r\ndressed will be that much harder.\r\nRecognize when a bargain is not a bargain.\r\nBy saying \"yes\" only to sale items in your colors, you can be assured that every\u0002thing you buy will go with whatever you own now or buy next year. Anything\r\nyou buy on sale that doesn't look good on you is really a waste of money, not a saving.\r\nBe aware of the clothing industry's color cycles and be open-minded about\r\nwhich color you want to buy.\r\nDon't shop with a preconceived idea of a color you want to buy. Instead, be open\u0002minded about what's available in your colors. The clothing industry does not\r\npromote every color every year. With the exception of basic business colors\r\n—\r\nnavy, gray, tan—most colors come in cycles several years apart. If you are han-\r\nkering to try out your emerald green polo shirt but you don't see that particular\r\nshade of green in the stores, forget it for now. You'll just be wasting your time\r\nhunting for it. Choose something in vogue now, as long as it's your color. Next\r\nyear emerald green will probably be everywhere!\r\nYour season will usually be your best shopping time of year. In springtime the\r\nlight tan suits appear, the suits best for the Spring man. Dark blue-red blazers\r\nappear at Christmastime—good for the Winter man. During your off-season you\r\nmay have to search for some of your colors. Stock up during your best shopping\r\nseason on shirts and even suits in your colors that you can wear year-round.\r\nFind a salesperson who is your season. Any salesperson, male or female, automatically likes his or her own colors. Unless\r\nyou are in a store where the personnel have been specifically trained to understand\r\ncolor, the salesperson is likely to sell you his or her colors instead of yours. Even\r\nwith your chart or swatches handy, he or she is likely to \"see\" his or her blue\r\ninstead of your blue. A salesperson who is your season will intuitively be of more\r\nhelp to you.\r\nBy the same token, shopping with a wife or friend who is not your season can produce the same unhappy results. Don't shop with a friend or spouse unless\r\nyou're sure he/she understands your colors.\r\nFind your store.\r\nThe buyer in a store influences the selection of all the merchandise. If the buyer\r\nis your season, you're in luck. She/he will intuitively select not only lots of your\r\ncolors but also styles, fabrics, and patterns that suit you, too. Furthermore, get to know which labels are cut and styled for you. Some stores\r\nwill carry your cut; others won't.\r\nDress appropriately; be well groomed.\r\nIf you are shopping for jeans, it's fine to wear jeans and sneakers to the store. If you want to buy a suit, wear a suit! Not only do you need the shirt and shoes for a proper fit but it's also impossible to judge the look of even the finest suit when\r\nyou're wearing a pair of old sneakers. Wear a solid tie, and chances are it will go\r\nwith the suit. You can assess an outfit more successfully if you look the part.\r\nComb your hair and shave. You will command the attention of the store personnel\r\nand therefore receive better service. A scruffy customer hardly looks like a good\r\nbet to a top-notch salesman.\r\n202/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSpend the most money on the clothes you wear the most.\r\nIf you wear a suit once a year, buy an inexpensive suit. But a suit worn every day\r\nwon't hold its shape or wear well unless the fabric and tailoring are both of good\r\nquality. In this case, it's a waste of money to buy an inexpensive suit.\r\nDevelop a shopping routine.\r\nFirst go to your size. If you're not sure of your size, have the salesperson measure\r\nyou. Then pull out everything in your colors. Next choose the style and pattern.\r\nCheck fabric and quality. Now try on. Last, call the tailor. For extra attention to\r\nyour needs, tip the tailor from $5 to $10 each time you buy a suit. This habit assures you of special attention to your $300 to $500 purchase.\r\nThis shopping routine helps you to quickly sort out the possibilities. If nothing\r\npasses the first few steps, go to another store. You've put in little effort, and you\r\nstill have the time, energy, and money to go elsewhere.\r\nOnce you buy a suit, have the tailor give you a swatch of the material after the\r\nsuit is fitted. Keep your swatches on a large safety pin and hang the pin on your\r\ntie rack. When you shop, you can take the swatches along to remind you of the\r\nsuits you already have, as well as to help you pick out new shirts and ties.\r\nMake a list. Using the Survival List in Chapter 6, itemize the clothing that you need to com\u0002plete your wardrobe. If money is an issue, arrange the list in order of priority.\r\nPerhaps you need a topcoat and a suit, but both are expensive. Decide which you\r\nneed more and put it at the top of the list. Shopping with a list prevents hit-or\u0002miss impulse purchases that eat up your budget and keep you from being able to buy that second item that you really need.\r\nIt's also a good idea to tack a piece of paper and a pen to your closet door. When\r\nyou notice you need some item of clothing, jot it down. When it's time to shop,\r\nyour list is already compiled.\r\nClean your closet.\r\nGo through your closet and remove everything you haven't worn for a year. If you\r\nhaven't worn it for a whole year, chances are you never will. Give those clothes\r\naway. Automatically you will be removing clothes that don't fit, that are out of\r\nstyle, or that you simply don't like.\r\nIf your weight fluctuates, remove the wrong-size-for-now clothes and put them\r\nSHOPPING/203\r\nin a box or storage closet for a later date. Keep in your closet only the clothes\r\nyou really wear. An organized closet simplifies getting dressed and leads to an\r\norganized day.\r\nTo avoid all that wasted space at the bottom of your closet, have a carpenter\r\ninstall a second closet pole halfway between the floor and the standard pole. Hang\r\nyour shirts and coats on the top pole, your pants on the bottom. Put your robe\r\non a hook. You also might want to build in cubbies for your shoes or folded shirts\r\nand sweaters.\r\nShop twice a year.\r\nThe clothing industry promotes warm-weather clothes beginning in January and\r\ncool-weather clothes in July, both following midwinter and midsummer sales. If you wait to buy summer clothes in the summertime, forget it. There's nothing\r\nleft. In March or April buy everything you need for the spring and summertime.\r\nIn August buy all your fall and winter clothes. During these months the selection\r\nis good, and you can purchase everything on your list in four hours or less, in\u0002cluding trips to different stores for shoes or whatever. Add a couple of hours for\r\nreturn trips for fittings and you've got shopping down to ten hours or less per\r\nyear.\r\nBy buying ahead of need you will never have to give up your Saturday golf or tennis because you were invited to a party Saturday night.\r\nWHEN SOMEONE SHOPS FOR YOU . . .\r\nIf you really hate to shop, you can give your favorite woman or salesperson the\r\nSurvival List and your color chart. If you are color-blind, you will have to let someone help you find your colors.\r\nMany stores and image consultants, including our Color for Men consultants,\r\noffer personal shopping as a professional service. These professionals do the leg\u0002work for you, so all you have to do is try things on. Shopping may never be your favorite pastime, but your colors certainly make\r\nit easier and less time-consuming. I know some men who've become shopping\r\nconverts now that the frustration has been removed. Also, many men have had\r\nthe selection of their clothes controlled by other people since their early childhood\r\nyears. You might now enjoy having the freedom to shop for yourself, buying\r\nclothes that you like and knowing that you will look better than ever!\r\nAt the back of this book I have included shopping summaries grouped by season. Tear out your season's guide and keep it as a handy reference.\r\nCHAPTER\r\n14\r\nV THE FINISHING\r\nTOUCHES: HAIR,\r\nGLASSES, AND\r\nGROOMING\r\nHAIRSTYLE\r\nAND FACE SHAPE\r\nNo program to improve your looks is complete without attention to your hair.\r\nWe've all seen the man who is well dressed and yet still doesn't look pulled\r\ntogether. A shaggy haircut (or an unkempt beard) can ruin the effect. Not only\r\ndoes a flattering haircut strengthen your best facial features and hide your flaws,\r\nbut it also enhances your overall image. And a poor haircut does the opposite.\r\nFinding the best hairstyle is harder for a man than for a woman. While women\r\nhave flexibility, men can make only subtle adjustments in their hairstyle. In most\r\nbusinesses, hair must be relatively short; even so, the variation of a quarter inch\r\nin length can transform your face. The placement of your part, the length of the\r\nhair around your ears, a layered or blunt cut—all make a significant difference\r\nin your look.\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/205\r\nYour best hairstyle depends on your face shape, the type of hair (curly, straight,\r\nthin, thick), your lifestyle, and the amount of time and care you're willing to\r\ndevote to your hair. To decide how to get the cut that is best for you, let's see what face shape you have and how to work with it. There are seven basic shapes:\r\noval, diamond, round, square, rectangle, oblong, and triangle. Pull your hair back\r\nfrom your face, look in the mirror, and examine the outline. Then choose from\r\nthe following the category that most closely fits your face. You probably won't\r\nfit into an exact category, but having a sense of your general face shape will help\r\nyou decide on a good haircut.\r\nOval\r\nThis is the \"perfect\" face shape.\r\nSlightly wider at the forehead than at the cheekbones or chin, it is classi\u0002cally proportioned.\r\nIf you have an oval face you can wear any hairstyle that suits your per\u0002sonality and lifestyle. Don't be afraid\r\nto change and experiment with new\r\nlooks, for you can carry them off.\r\nDiamond\r\nA diamond face is wider at the cheek\u0002bones than at the forehead or chin.\r\nIf your face is diamond-shaped,\r\nyour hair should fill out your face at the forehead and chin while being\r\nclose to your head (but not plastered\r\nflat) at its widest point.\r\nWhen your hair covers your fore\u0002head, your face seems wider. Fullness\r\njust below the back of the ears and in\r\nthe back of the head gives weight to the chin and lower jaw area. Never\r\npull your hair straight back. Use a\r\nslightly high side part. If your hair is curly, make sure it does not stick out\r\nat the temples.\r\nRound\r\nA round face is also wider at the\r\ncheekbones but has a curved, chin and\r\nbrow. It is almost as wide as it is long.\r\nYour goal is to slim your face and\r\ncreate a longer look. Your hair can also\r\nhelp create the illusion of angles. Part\r\nyour hair about two inches to either\r\nside of center with bangs on an angle\r\nto cut the roundness of your fore\u0002head. Keep fullness at the top and\r\naround eye level, but trim hair shorter\r\nat the ears. Wear your sideburns a touch longer and cut them on an angle\r\nwith the front pointing downward. A\r\nclosely trimmed beard shaped on an\r\nangle can effectively slim a round\r\nface.\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/207\r\nSquare\r\nA square face is about as wide at the\r\ncheeks as it is long, with an angular\r\njaw and a square forehead.\r\nIf your face is square, your goal is to make your face seem a little longer and\r\nsomewhat less angular. Keep your part\r\nIV2 inches to either side of center,\r\nas a part too far to the side accents\r\nsquareness. Hair should be full on top,\r\nadding height. Cover the corners of\r\nyour angular forehead with bangs that\r\nwave outward at both temples. Enjoy\r\nyour square jaw. It's a masculine trait that many men envy.\r\nRectangle\r\nLonger than it is wide, the rectangular\r\nface is square-jawed and has an an\u0002gular forehead.\r\nIf your face is rectangular, you can\r\nshorten it slightly by adding fullness\r\nto the sides and softening the hairline.\r\nCover your forehead with some off- center bangs to shorten your face and\r\ncamouflage your angular forehead. A\r\nlayered cut adds width and helps cre- ate roundness at the sides of your face.\r\nBlow-dry your hair to add fullness.\r\nAvoid long hair in the back.\r\n208/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nOblong\r\nThe oblong face has the same propor\u0002tions as the rectangular face, but the\r\nchin and brow are curved and\r\nrounded, not angular.\r\nIf you have an oblong face, you want\r\nto create the illusion of a shorter, fuller\r\nshape. Add fullness at the temples and\r\nsides, and keep it longer around the\r\nears. A longish layered cut provides\r\nfullness especially if you blow-dry\r\nyour hair. Keep it short at the back so the hairline doesn't drag the eye\r\ndownwards.\r\nTriangle\r\nA wide brow, slightly narrower cheek\u0002bones, and a narrow chin are charac\u0002teristic of the triangular face.\r\nIf your face is triangular, you need\r\nto narrow your brow area and widen\r\nyour chin. Part your hair about triree inches to either side of center with\r\nbangs covering one side of the fore\u0002head. Keep it close-cropped at the top\r\nand temples, with extra length and\r\nfullness in the back, perhaps showing\r\nbeneath the ears. A beard can be the\r\nperfect solution for filling in a narrow\r\nchin.\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/209\r\nGOING, GOING, GONE: BALD CAN BE BEAUTIFUL, TOO\r\nIf you have thinning hair or are bald, don't despair. Yul Brynner and Telly Savalas\r\nhave made baldness a symbol of virility, and Burt Reynolds and others have shown\r\nus that a hairpiece or transplant can be convincingly real. There are many options,\r\nand it is as important for you to know how to cut and take care of your hair as\r\nit is for the bushy-haired college kid.\r\nKeeping your hair short is the trick. Identify your facial shape and emphasize\r\nits assets. A good cut and the use of a blow dryer to create fullness are essential.\r\nRemember:\r\nKeep thinning hair fairly short and always neatly trimmed. Long strands\r\nlook sparse and accentuate baldness. Short, layered hair looks fuller than\r\nlong hair.\r\nNever part your hair over one ear and comb long strands over your bald spot.\r\nIt only calls attention to your baldness and looks terrible when the wind\r\nblows. Really, bald is attractive if you will work with it instead of trying to cover it up.\r\nIf you have only a receding hairline, you can comb your hair forward. This\r\ndoes not look artificial, since some people wear their hair back to front\r\nanyway.\r\nIf you have just a few hairs on the top of your otherwise bald head, shave\r\nthem off. It looks neater, smoother, and sexier, and calls less attention to the\r\ntop of your head.\r\nConsider growing a mustache or a beard if your professional life permits.\r\nFacial hair can often balance baldness.\r\nHOW TO BLOW-DBY YOUB HAIB\r\nIf your hair is thinning or straight you can increase its fullness with a blow\u0002drier. First lift hair with a round brush and blow hot air against the direction of\r\nhair growth. After you have held the dryer near the roots for a few seconds, wrap\r\nyour hair around the brush in the direction you want it to fall and blow it almost\r\ndry on the brush.\r\nIf your hair is full, you need control, not more fullness. Use a warm (not hot)\r\nsetting, and blow-dry in the same direction the hair grows. Simply blow as you\r\nbrush. You need a regular, not a round, brush.\r\nTo control curliness, blow hair partially dry all over. Once hair is almost dry, use a brush to pull your hair flat and straight as you continue drying.\r\nTo control fullness, flatten hair as you brush and\r\ndry in the direction you want your hair to stay. To control curliness. brush hair from underneath and stretch as vou dry.\r\nThen dry in the direction you want your\r\nhair to stay. To tame cowlicks, wrap hair around a brush in the desired direction. Hold firm\r\nand dry. Don't cut your cowlick too short or you won't be able to control it. Don't\r\nblow against the direction of the hair at the root, since it already sticks up.\r\nFor freestyle, rotate the dryer around your head, first blowing air against hair,\r\nthen blowing with your hair's natural fall. Shake your head every couple of min\u0002utes to give your hair bounce.\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/211\r\nHAIR COLOR\r\nSome men do color their hair. The most common reason for coloring is to cover\r\ngray. The secret to success is having the results look natural. Depending on your\r\nseason and situation, you may want to stay gray or cover your gray partly or completely.\r\nWinters and Summers, the cool seasons, may prefer to stay gray, since gray\r\noften arrives attractively on the Winter or Summer man. Winters often gray early\r\nand beautifully. Unless you feel negative about gray hair, leave it alone. It's bright\r\nand beautiful.\r\nAutumns and Springs, on the other hand, may prefer to cover their gray until\r\nit has completely arrived. During the two-tone stage, their gray tones may diminish\r\ntheir overall warm look. Once the gray is completely in, however, it has a yel\u0002lowish cast and looks harmonious.\r\nWhen selecting hair products or having your hair professionally colored, stick as closely as possible to your own hair color. Because of the peroxide they contain,\r\nmany products bring out the red in your hair. Autumns and Springs don't need\r\nto worry about this, since red or golden tones look great on them, but Winters\r\nand Summers should avoid warm tones.\r\nColor Guidelines\r\nHere are guidelines for selecting the right color:\r\nWinters and Summers need tones with a cool base. Browns are good if they\r\ndo not have the word \"warm\" in the name. Ash tones are for you.\r\nAutumns and Springs need tones with a warm base. Autumns can use warm\r\nbrown, red, and auburn tones. Springs use golden brown, golden blond, or warm brown.\r\nApplication Tricks\r\nJulius, Nancy Reagan's hairdresser, offers these tips for covering gray:\r\nChoose a light, natural shade that matches the lighter strands of your hair.\r\nWhen using comb-through products, don't apply the color all over. Dip the\r\ncomb in the color, then comb it through for a natural look.\r\nFACIAL HAIR\r\nBeards or mustaches can create the illusion of a better face shape. Thin faces fill out, round or broad faces appear more chiseled. The line of the beard or mustache\r\ncreates the illusion, so it's important to know what will work for you. Make sure any facial hair is well-trimmed and not exaggerated. Remember, facial hair in-\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/213\r\nfluences your image. A shaggy, less stylized look is Natural. A Dramatic person\u0002ality will want a more stylized look. A Classic type rarely wears facial hair, but\r\nif he does it must be neat and trim. Facial hair, especially beards, is usually not an acceptable corporate look.\r\nIf your beard color is distinctly different from your hair color, you may want\r\nto skip the beard. It gives you \"two\" seasons, and it's hard to look harmonious\r\nwith your clothes when there are two different colors on your face.\r\nGLASSES\r\nThe three factors to consider when selecting glasses are color, shape, and size.\r\nSelect your glasses after you have your hair styled, as you want the frames to complement the new shape of your face. Also, if you plan to color your hair for\r\nany reason, do it before you buy glasses. The choice of frame color is affected by\r\nyour hair color.\r\nChoosing the Right Color Frames\r\nThe correct color of frames for you is based on your season and hair color. When\r\nbuying plastic frames, choose the same color as your hair, but one shade lighter.\r\nIf you are pale or sallow-skinned, do choose plastic frames, which bring color to your face. Autumns in particular should consider this option.\r\nWinters and Summers, the cool seasons, should make sure that their frames\r\n—\r\nparticularly brown ones—are not reddish or golden. Even tortoise-shell must be\r\na cool brown. If you choose metal frames, they should be silver-toned.\r\nAutumns and Springs, the warm seasons, should choose plastic frames with a warm red or golden tone. Metal frames should be gold-toned.\r\nColor Tints for Lenses\r\nThe best color choices for tinted sunglasses, eye doctors say, are dark gray, green,\r\nand brown. Choose the correct tint for your season—gray for the cool seasons,\r\nbrown or green for the warm seasons. Avoid colors such as blue (which makes\r\nit difficult to distinguish the color of traffic signals); lavender, orange, and rose (which don't screen out enough light to protect your eyes); and yellow (which\r\nactually intensifies the light).\r\nFor regular tinted glasses, choose no more than a 10 percent tint. It is fashionable\r\nnow, and attractive, to tint the top of the lenses in a neutral 30 percent tint (say\r\ngray or brown, depending on your season), leave the center plain, and tint the\r\n214/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nbottom in a 10 to 20 percent tint. The effect is very subtle and very flattering, but\r\nleaves your eyes free to see naturally out of the center of your glasses.\r\nChoosing the Right Shape\r\nGlasses should complement the shape of your face. Choose frames that follow the\r\nshape of the top of your brow. The heaviness of the frames should be scaled to your bone structure.\r\nYou can adjust the width of the glasses frame for best effect. For most faces,\r\nkeep the frames the same width as your temple. Choose them a little narrower to compensate for a wide face, or a little wider for a narrow face. Too narrow and\r\nthey'll look dinky. Too wide and you'll look cartoonish!\r\nEarlier in this chapter you identified your basic face shape. Here are some tips\r\nfor selecting frames to suit your face shape.\r\nOVAL DIAMOND\r\nAn oval face can wear any frame that\r\nis not extreme. Anything too large, too\r\nsmall, or too angular will look unbal\u0002anced. Choose a style that suits your\r\nbone structure, clothing personality,\r\nand season.\r\nThe diamond face wants to create the\r\nillusion of a wider chin line and fore\u0002head. You need frames with width on\r\ntop, straightish sides, and bottoms that\r\npoint downward and outward. Avia\u0002tor glasses are excellent.\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/215\r\nROUND\r\nA round face needs to create the\r\nillusion of cheekbones with frames\r\nthat are straight across the top, angle\r\ninward toward the bottom, and\r\nsquare off across the bottom. Avoid\r\nround glasses or curved sides, which\r\nwill emphasize roundness. Severely\r\nsquare glasses are also wrong because\r\nthe contrast in shapes is too extreme.\r\nSQUARE\r\nSlightly rounded or curved frames\r\nwith height on top can modify a too\u0002square face. Since you want to lengthen the look of your face, aviator\r\nframes are handsome if your cheek\u0002bones are pronounced and gravity has\r\nnot yet begun to make you jowly-\r\n216/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nRECTANGLE\r\nA rectangular face, being long and\r\nsquare, needs added width. A wide,\r\nsquare frame with slightly rounded\r\ncorners or an overall rounded style is generally best.\r\nOBLONG\r\nThe oblong face is long but not square.\r\nIt needs both width and angles.\r\nChoose slightly wide frames with\r\nrounded sides and straight bottoms to add shape. Choose largish glasses with\r\nheavier sides.\r\nTHE FINISHING TOUCHES/217\r\nTRIANGLE\r\nSince the triangular face has a broad\r\nforehead and narrow chin, you want\r\nglasses that create balance. The top\r\npiece of the frames should not be\r\nheavy, and the sides should not be\r\nwider than your temples. Consider\r\nglasses with a curved, dropped bottom\r\npiece, such as an aviator frame. Square\r\nshapes are out, as is a heavy bridge.\r\nACCENTUATE THE POSITIVE: Once you have determined the general frame\r\nshape that is best for you, you can refine it even further to accentuate your best\r\nfeatures and disguise your flaws.\r\nIf you have a long nose, choose glasses with a low bridge. A dark-colored\r\nbridge is even more shortening.\r\nIf you have a short nose, a high, keyhole bridge in a light color lengthens\r\nthe appearance of your nose.\r\nIf your eyes are small or too close together, make them appear wider with\r\na wide bridge. A clear bridge with colored end pieces makes the illusion even stronger.\r\nIf your nose is wide or your eyes are wide set, choose a medium-weight dark\u0002colored bridge.\r\n218/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nGROOMING\r\nPlease don't forget the details that ensure your attractiveness as a total person.\r\nGood grooming is key to a successful image. Here's a grooming checklist:\r\n1. Hair clean and neat.\r\n2. Teeth brushed; good breath.\r\n3. Deodorant—make sure it's still working.\r\n4. Face shaved. (Watch for five o'clock shadow. Keep a razor at work.]\r\n5. Fingernails clean and filed; cuticles trimmed. (It's easy to get a manicure\r\neach time you get a haircut.)\r\n6. Clothes clean, neatly pressed. (Check for hanging threads, loose buttons,\r\nsagging lining, and split seams.)\r\n7. Shirt cuffs and collars without frays.\r\n8. Shoes polished, heels not worn.\r\nColor for Men is a total concept.\r\nYou now have the tools to buy the best colors and clothing styles for you as well as a more organized approach to getting dressed.\r\nMix that with a great haircut, a neat and clean appearance, and you've got it\r\nall. Ready, set, go, put your best look forward!\r\nEPILOGUE\r\nTHE\r\nTOTAL\r\nMAN\r\nThroughout this book we have stressed the outer you—your ap\u0002pearance, your image, your looks. But the true results of applying your colors are\r\ninner. The harmony and self-confidence that come with being comfortable with\r\nyour appearance make you feel good. And self-esteem is what life is all about,\r\nfor your own special qualities are what really make you valuable in your business\r\nlife and inspire affection in your personal life. Knowing that you look your best\r\ngives you the freedom and the confidence to continue to develop your full po\u0002tential.\r\nSo here's to the Total Man! Enjoy your colors!\r\n\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN/221\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR A WINTER MAN\r\nNeutrals Lights Basic Colors Brights/Accents\r\nNavy Pure White True Blue Royal Blue True Red\r\nBlack Icy Gray Pine Green Hot Turquoise Shocking Pink\r\nTaupe (Gray- Icy Blue Bright Burgundy Chinese Blue Deep Hot Pink\r\nBeige) Icy Yellow Blue-Red Lemon Yellow Magenta\r\nCharcoal Gray Icy Pink Light True Green Fuchsia\r\nMedium True Icy Green True Green Royal Purple\r\nGray Icy Violet Emerald Green\r\nLight True Gray Icy Aqua\r\nSuits, Pants\r\nSelect suits and pants from your Neutral\r\ngroup. Neutrals form the foundation of your wardrobe because they go with every\u0002thing.\r\nPatterns: Winters are best in solids or pin\u0002stripes that offer sharp contrasts.\r\nSport Coats\r\nSelect sport coats from the Basic Color or Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones\r\nthat are versatile, go with many of your\r\nother colors, and add interest to your ward\u0002robe.\r\nTies\r\nTies can bring life to your overall appear\u0002ance. Select colors from any group that re- late to your shirt and coat —Neutrals or Basic Colors for a more conservative look. Winters are best in solids or contrasting\r\nstripes, but can also wear polka dots or fou\u0002lards that contain some sharpness.\r\nBusiness/Dress Shirts Choose business and dress shirts from the\r\nLights category. Wear them as solids or with stripes or checks from any of your\r\ncolor groups (example: White shirt with\r\nBright Burgundy stripe). Shirt colors are important, since they are worn next to the\r\nface. Shoes and Belts Black, Navy, Cordovan, and Gray are the appropriate colors here. For warm weather,\r\nCasual Clothes add Taupe or White.\r\nCasual clothes and sportswear may be worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in stripes or other prints, according to your\r\npersonality. Here's your chance to add a new dimension to your casual wardrobe.\r\nOvercoat\r\nChoose Black, Navy, Gray, or Taupe (Gray\u0002Beige), whichever is your best.\r\n222/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR A WINTER MAN\r\nName\r\nAddress\r\nSHOPPING REMINDER\r\n(List Sizes)\r\nShirt: Neck Sleeve\r\nSport shirt: S M L XL\r\nSuit/Jacket\r\nWaist:\r\nPant length:\r\nSock:\r\nShoe:\r\nGlove: :\r\nOvercoat:\r\nOther:\r\nEnjoy your colors!\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN/223\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR A SUMMER MAN\r\nNeutrals\r\nGrayed Navy\r\nCharcoal Blue- Gray\r\nLight Blue-Gray\r\nGrayed Blue\r\nRose-Brown\r\nCocoa\r\nRose-Beige\r\nLights\r\nSoft White\r\nLight Rose-Beige\r\nPowder Blue\r\nLight Periwinkle\r\nBlue\r\nPale Lemon\r\nYellow\r\nPowder Pink\r\nLight Mauve\r\nLavender\r\nBasic Colors\r\nCadet Blue\r\nBurgundy\r\nBlue-Red\r\nSpruce Green\r\nBrights/Accents\r\nLight Lemon\r\nYellow\r\nSky Blue\r\nMedium Blue\r\nPeriwinkle Blue\r\nPastel Aqua\r\nPastel Blue-Green\r\nMedium Blue- Green\r\nDeep Blue-Green\r\nWatermelon Red\r\nPastel Pink\r\nRose-Pink\r\nDeep Rose\r\nOrchid\r\nMauve\r\nRaspberry\r\nSoft Fuchsia\r\nPlum\r\nSuits, Pants\r\nSelect suits and pants from your Neutral\r\ngroup. Neutrals form the foundation of your wardrobe because they go with every\u0002thing.\r\nPatterns: Summers are best in solids or sub\u0002tle patterns that offer minimal contrast.\r\nSport Coats\r\nSelect sport coats from the Basic Color or Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones\r\nthat are versatile, go with many of your\r\nother colors, and add interest to your ward\u0002robe.\r\nTies\r\nTies can bring life to your overall appear\u0002ance. Select colors from any group that re- late to your shirt and coat—Neutrals or Basic Colors for a more conservative look. Summers are best in subtle patterns—fou\u0002lards, small dots, blended stripes.\r\nBusiness/Dress Shirts Choose business and dress shirts from the\r\nLights category. Wear them as solids, or with stripes or checks from any of your\r\ncolor groups (example: Soft White shirt with Blue stripe). Shirt colors are impor\u0002tant, since they are worn next to the face. Shoes and Belts Rose-Brown, Black, Navy, Cordovan, and\r\nGray are the appropriate colors here. For warm weather, add Rose-Beige or Soft White.\r\nCasual Clothes\r\nCasual clothes and sportswear may be worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in stripes or other prints, according to your\r\npersonality. Here's your chance to add a new dimension to your casual wardrobe.\r\nOvercoat\r\nChoose Navy, Grayed Blue, Rose-Brown, or Cocoa, whichever is your best.\r\n224/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR A SUMMER MAN\r\nName .\r\nAddress\r\nSHOPPING REMINDER\r\n(List Sizes)\r\nShirt: Neck Sleeve\r\nSport shirt: S M L XL\r\nSuit/Jacket\r\nWaist:\r\nPant length:\r\nSock:\r\nShoe:\r\nGlove:\r\nOvercoat:\r\nOther:\r\nEnjoy your colors.'\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN/225\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR AN AUTUMN MAN\r\nNeutrals Brights/Accents\r\nCharcoal Brown\r\nDark Chocolate\r\nBrown\r\nCoffee Brown\r\nKhaki/Tan\r\nCamel\r\nMarine Navy\r\nOlive Green\r\nGrayed Green\r\nLights\r\nOyster White\r\nWarm Beige\r\nBuff (Light Gold)\r\nLight Peach/\r\nApricot\r\nLight Periwinkle\r\nBlue\r\nLight Grayed\r\nGreen\r\nBasic Colors\r\nForest Green\r\nMedium Warm\r\nBronze\r\nRust Mahogany\r\nGold\r\nTeal Blue\r\nYellow-Gold\r\nMustard\r\nPumpkin\r\nTerra-Cotta Deep Peach/\r\nApricot\r\nSalmon\r\nOrange\r\nOrange-Red\r\nBittersweet Red\r\nDark Tomato Red\r\nJade Green\r\nLime Green\r\nMoss Green\r\nBright Yellow\u0002Green\r\nTurquoise\r\nDeep Periwinkle\r\nBlue\r\nSuits, Pants\r\nSelect suits and pants from your Neutral\r\ngroup. Neutrals form the foundation of your wardrobe because they go with every\u0002thing.\r\nPatterns: Autumns are often best in tweeds,\r\nplaids, and rich, nubbv fabrics.\r\nSport Coats\r\nSelect sport coats from the Basic Color or Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones\r\nthat are versatile, go with many of your\r\nother colors, and add interest to your ward\u0002robe.\r\nTies\r\nTies can bring life to your overall appear\u0002ance. Select colors from any group that re- late to your shirt and coat—Neutrals or Basic colors for a more conservative look. Autumns are best with rich colors worn in\r\npaisleys, plaids, irregular stripes, or fou\u0002lards.\r\nBusiness/Dress Shirts Choose business and dress shirts from the\r\nLights category. Wear them as solids or with stripes or checks from any of your\r\ncolor groups (example: Oyster White shirt with Rust stripe). Shirt colors are impor\u0002tant, since they are worn next to the face.\r\nShoes and Belts Brown, Cordovan, Black (with navy), and\r\nTan are the appropriate colors here. For Casual Clothes warm weather, add Beige or Oyster.\r\nCasual clothes and sportswear may be worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in stripes or other prints, according to your\r\npersonality. Here's your chance to add a new dimension to your casual wardrobe.\r\nOvercoat\r\nChoose Charcoal Brown, Coffee, Khaki/\r\nTan, Camel, or Marine Navy, whichever is your best\r\n226/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR AN AUTUMN MAN\r\nV Name\r\nAddress\r\nSHOPPING REMINDER\r\n(List Sizes)\r\nShirt: Neck Sleeve\r\nSport shirt: S M L XL\r\nSuit/Jacket\r\nWaist:\r\nPant length:\r\nSock:\r\nShoe:\r\nGlove:\r\nOvercoat:\r\nOther:\r\nEnjoy your colors.'\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN/227\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR A SPRING MAN\r\nNeutrals Lights\r\nClear Bright Navy Ivory\r\nMedium Warm\r\nGray\r\nLight Warm Gray\r\nChocolate Brown\r\nMedium Golden\r\nBrown\r\nGolden Tan\r\nCamel\r\nLight Warm Beige\r\nBuff\r\nLight Peach/\r\nApricot\r\nWarm Pastel Pink\r\nLight Clear Blue\r\nLight Periwinkle\r\nBlue\r\nBasic Colors\r\nLight Clear Navy\r\nLight Clear Gold\r\nLight Rust\r\nLight Teal Blue\r\nBrights/Accents\r\nPastel Yellow\u0002Green\r\nBright Yellow\u0002Green\r\nLight Warm Aqua\r\nClear Bright Aqua\r\nEmerald\r\nTurquoise\r\nLight True Blue\r\nPeriwinkle Blue\r\nDark Periwinkle\r\nBlue\r\nMedium Violet Bright Golden\r\nYellow\r\nPeach/Apricot\r\nClear Salmon\r\nClear Bright Warm\r\nPink\r\nCoral Pink\r\nBright Coral\r\nLight Orange\r\nOrange-Red\r\nClear Bright Red\r\nSuits, Pants\r\nSelect suits and pants from your Neutral\r\ngroup. Neutrals form the foundation of your wardrobe because they go with every\u0002thing.\r\nPatterns: Springs are often best in glen\r\nplaids or solids with a slight texture.\r\nBusiness/Dress Shirts Choose business and dress shirts from the\r\nLights category. Wear them as solids or with stripes or checks from any of your\r\ncolor groups (example: Ivory shirt with\r\nBlue stripe). Shirt colors are important,\r\nsince they are worn next to the face.\r\nCasual Clothes\r\nCasual clothes and sportswear may be worn in Brights/Accents as solids or in stripes or other prints, according to your\r\npersonality. Here's your chance to add a new dimension to vour casual wardrobe.\r\nSport Coats\r\nSelect sport coats from the Basic Color or Neutral groups. Basic Colors are the ones\r\nthat are versatile, go with many of your\r\nother colors, and add interest to your ward\u0002robe.\r\nTies\r\nTies can bring life to your overall appear\u0002ance. Select colors from any group that re- late to your shirt and coat —Neutrals or Basic Colors for a more conservative look. Springs are best in solids or subtle prints:\r\nplaids, stripes, foulards.\r\nShoes and Belts Brown, Tan, Cordovan, and Black (with\r\nnavy) are the appropriate colors here. For warm weather, add Beige and Ivory.\r\nOvercoat\r\nChoose Camel, Medium Warm Gray,\r\nGolden Tan, or Light Clear Navy, which\u0002ever is vour best.\r\nSHOPPING GUIDE FOR A SPRING MAN\r\nName\r\nAddress\r\nSHOPPING REMINDER\r\n(List Sizes)\r\nShirt: Neck Sleeve\r\nSport shirt: S M L XL\r\nSuit Jacket\r\nWaist:\r\nPant length:\r\nSock:\r\nShoe:\r\nGlove:\r\nOvercoat:\r\nOther:\r\nEnjoy your coJors.'\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN/229\r\n230/COLOR FOR MEN\r\nFabric Glossary\r\nHoundstooth\r\nK^c-*? y »- •'••.'./•<f\r\n. -< • '\r\n;\r\n1\r\nBird's Eyes\r\nINDEX\r\nAccent colors, 41\r\nSee also Bright/accent colors. Autumn, 12, 15, 22\r\nanalyzing coloring of, 40\r\nbusiness colors, 71 coloring of, 51-53\r\ncolor intensity, 22, 40\r\ncolors of Autumn palette, 68-71\r\ngray hair and, 211 individualizing colors, 29, 70\r\nseasonal chart for, 32-33\r\nshirts, 41\r\nshopping guide for, 32, 225-26\r\nsportswear colors, 72\r\nSurvival wardrobe colors, 101\r\ntie colors/patterns, 154, 156\r\nBaldness, 209\r\nBasic colors, 41\r\nAutumn, 32-33\r\nSpring, 36-37\r\nSummer, 28-29\r\nWinter, 24-25\r\nBeards, 212-13\r\nBlack, 22\r\nBlow-drying hair, 209-10\r\nBody proportions, 105-19\r\nbody checklist, 106\r\ndetermination of, 105-11\r\nheight/weight tips, 111-17 leg-torso proportion tips, 115 neck size tips, 117 seat size tips, 119\r\nshirt fit, 144-48\r\nshoulder/hip proportion tips, 114 shoulder slope tips, 115\r\nsuit fit, 121-32\r\nupper back shape tips, 119 waist/body proportion tips, 117 Bow ties, 162\r\nBright/accent colors, 41\r\nAutumn, 33\r\nSpring, 37\r\nSummer, 29\r\nWinter, 25\r\nsportswear; 61\r\nBusiness clothes:\r\nAutumn colors, 32, 71 Spring colors, 36, 82-83\r\nSummer colors, 28, 67-68\r\nWinter colors, 24, 64\r\ngeneral rules for, 60\r\nButton-down collar, 136\r\nCasual clothes, 41\r\nSee aiso Sportswear.\r\nCasual type man, wardrobe for, 104\r\nClassic clothing personality type,\r\n186-90, 197\r\nClothing personality, 174-98\r\nSee also Clothing Types.\r\nClothing styles, mixing of, 172\r\nClothing types:\r\nClassic, 186-90, 197\r\nDramatic, 175-79, 194\r\nGamin, 190-93,198\r\nNatural, 183-86, 196\r\nRomantic, 174-83, 195\r\nClub tie, 152\r\nCollars, of shirts, 136-41\r\nfit, 144-48\r\nsize and shape, 138\r\nstyles, 136-41\r\nColor for Men system, 41-42\r\nbenefits of, 42\r\nbuilding a wardrobe and, 42\r\nColor history, 43-43\r\nColoring:\r\nanalyzing of, 40\r\nAutumn, 51-53\r\nevaluating coloring, 46-47\r\nindividualizing color for, 58-59\r\nSpring, 53-55\r\nSummer, 49-51\r\nWinter, 47-49\r\nColoring hair, 211 Colors:\r\nbasic colors, 41\r\nbright/accent colors, 41\r\nfinding your season, 43-57\r\nintensity in seasonal pallettes, 22, 40\r\nintuitive color sense, 15\r\nlights, 40\r\nneutrals. 40\r\nright colors, 14, 56\r\nshades in seasonal palettes, 22, 40\r\nwrong colors, 14, 56\r\nContrast, suit/shirt/tie combinations,\r\n171 Corporate man, wardrobe for, 103\r\nCuffs, of shirts, 141-42, 146-47\r\nCut, of suits. 121-24\r\nDots, ties. 153\r\nDramatic clothing personality type,\r\n175-76. 194\r\nDress clothes:\r\nAutumn, 32\r\nSpring, 36\r\nSummer, 28\r\nWinter, 24\r\nEuropean suits, 124 manufacturers of, 134\r\nEyeglasses, 213-17\r\naccentuating features, 217\r\ncolor of frames, 213\r\ncolor tinting of lenses, 213-14\r\nface shape and, 214-17\r\nFabric:\r\nsuit/shirt/tie combinations, 170-72\r\nof shirts, 142\r\nof suits, 133\r\nties, 156\r\nweight/texture/finish, 171 Face shape:\r\ncollar styles and, 138-41\r\neyeglasses and, 214-17\r\nhairstyle and, 204-9\r\nFacial hair, 212-13\r\nFinish, of fabric, 171\r\nFit, of shirts, 144-48\r\ncollar, 145-46\r\ncuffs/sleeves, 141-42, 146-47\r\nshoulders, 147\r\ntorso, 148\r\nFit, of suits, 120-32\r\njacket, 125-28\r\npants, 129-32\r\nvest. 129\r\nFoulard (Ivy League), ties, 152\r\nFour-in-hand knot, 159\r\nFull spread collar, 137\r\nGamin clothing personality type.\r\n190-93, 198\r\nGeometric ties, 152\r\nGray hair, coloring of, 211 Grooming, checklist for, 218\r\nHairstyle:\r\nbaldness, 209\r\nblow-drying, 209-10\r\ncoloring hair, 211 face shape and, 204-9\r\nHalf Windsor knot, 160\r\nIntensity, in seasonal palettes, 22\r\nIvy League suit, 122\r\nmanufacturers of, 134\r\nIvy League tie, 152\r\nJackets, 40\r\nproper fit. 125-28\r\nKnots, of ties, 158-62\r\nLength, of ties, 158\r\nLifestyle, wardrobe and, 103^1\r\nLight colors, 40\r\nAutumn, 32\r\nSpring, 36\r\nSummer, 28\r\nWinter, 24\r\nManufacturers:\r\nof shirts, 148\r\nof suits, 134\r\nMood, individualizing color for, 59\r\nMustaches, 212-13\r\nNatural clothing personality type,\r\n183-86, 196\r\nNeck proportions, collar styles and, 138\r\nNeutral colors, 40\r\nAutumn, 32\r\nSpring, 36\r\nSummer, 28\r\nWinter, 24\r\nOuterwear, casual, 41 Overcoats, 40\r\nPaisley, ties, 153\r\nPants, 40\r\nproper fit, 129-32\r\nPatterns, suit/shirt/tie combinations,\r\n164-71\r\nPersonality, individualizing color for, 59-60\r\nPin collar, 137\r\nPlaids, ties, 152\r\nProfessional man, wardrobe for. 103\r\nQuality, of suits, 132-33\r\nRomantic clothing personality type,\r\n179-83\r\nRound collar, 138\r\nRuddiness, 47\r\nSallowness, 46\r\nSeasonal charts, 23-11\r\nbasic colors, 41\r\nbright/accent colors, 41\r\nflexibility of, 23\r\nlights, 40\r\nneutrals, 40\r\nSeasonal palette, 21-41\r\nanalyzing your coloring, 40\r\nAutumn colors, 68-71\r\ncolor comparison chart, 84-86\r\ncomparing the colors, 22\r\ndecision making about, 45-46\r\nfinding your season, 43-57\r\nright color, 56\r\nseasonal charts, 23-41\r\nSpring colors, 72, 81-82\r\nSummer colors, 65-67\r\ntesting colors, 55-57\r\nWinter colors, 61-63\r\nwrong color, 56\r\nSeasonal types, See Autumn; Spring;\r\nSummer; Winter\r\nSelf-image, individualizing color for, 59-60\r\nShades, in seasonal palettes, 22\r\nShirts, 40, 135-48\r\ncollars of, 136-41\r\ncolor and, 135-36\r\ncombined with suits/ties, 163-73\r\ncuffs of, 141-42, 146-17\r\nfabric, 142\r\nfit, 144-48\r\nmanufacturers of, 148\r\npatterns, 143-44\r\nShopping guides, 221-27\r\nShopping tips, 199-203\r\nSize:\r\nof collars, 138\r\nof suits, 120-21\r\nSkintone, evaluation of, 46-47\r\nSlacks, 40\r\nSleeves, of shirts, 146-47\r\nSolids:\r\nsuit/shirt/tie combinations, 164-71\r\nties, 150\r\nSport coats, 41\r\nSportswear, 41\r\nAutumn colors, 33, 72\r\nindividualizing color for, 61\r\nSpring colors, 37, 83\r\nSummer colors, 29, 68\r\nWinter colors, 25, 64\r\nSpring, 12, 15, 16, 22\r\nanalyzing your coloring, 40\r\nbusiness colors, 82-83\r\ncoloring of, 53-55\r\ncolor intensity, 22\r\ncolors of Spring palette. 72, 81-82\r\ngray hair and, 211 individualizing colors, 82\r\nseasonal chart for, 36-37\r\nshirts, 40\r\nshopping guide for, 36, 227-28\r\nsportswear colors, 83\r\nSurvival wardrobe colors, 102\r\ntie colors/patterns, 154, 156\r\nStandard collar, 137\r\nStriped, ties, 152\r\nSuits, 40, 120-34\r\ncombined with shirts/ties, 163-73\r\ncut, 121-24\r\ndetermining size, 120-21\r\nEuropean suit, 124 fabric, 133\r\nfit, 120-32\r\nIvy League suit, 122\r\nmanufacturers of, 134\r\nquality of construction, 132-33\r\nUpdated American suit, 123\r\nSummer, 12. 15, 21, 22\r\nanalyzing your coloring, 40\r\nbusiness colors, 67-68\r\ncoloring of, 49-51\r\ncolor intensity, 22\r\ncolors of Summer palette. 65-67\r\ngray hair and, 211 individualizing colors, 67\r\nseasonal chart for, 28-29\r\nshirts, 40\r\nshopping guide for, 28, 223-24\r\nsportswear colors, 68\r\nSurvival wardrobe colors, 100\r\ntie colors/patterns, 154, 155\r\nSurvival wardrobe, 91-102\r\nAutumn colors, 101 descriptions of clothing items. 91-97\r\nlifestyles and, 103-4\r\nSpring colors, 102\r\nstarting of. 90\r\nSummer colors, 100\r\nWinter colors, 99\r\nSweaters, 40\r\nTexture, of fabric, 171 Ties, 41, 149-62\r\nAutumn colors/patterns, 154, 156\r\nbow ties. 162\r\ncombined with shirts/suits. 163-73\r\nfabric of, 156-57\r\nknots. 158-62\r\nlength of. 158\r\npatterns of, 150-53\r\nSpring colors/patterns, 154. 156\r\nSummer colors/ patterns, 154, 155\r\nwidth of, 157\r\nWinter colors/patterns, 153-54, 155\r\nUniforms, wardrobe for wearer of, 104\r\nUpdated American suit, 123\r\nmanufacturers of, 134\r\nVests, proper fit, 129\r\nWardrobe. 89-104\r\ncasual man, 104\r\ncorporate man, 103\r\nman in uniform, 104\r\nprofessional man, 103\r\nsurvival wardrobe, 91-102\r\nSee aiso Survival wardrobe.\r\nWeight, of fabric, 171 White, 22\r\nWidth, of ties, 157\r\nWindsor knot, 161 Winter, 12, 15,21,22\r\nanalyzing your coloring, 40\r\nbusiness colors, 64\r\ncoloring of, 47-49\r\ncolor intensity, 22\r\ncolors of Winter palette, 61-63\r\ngray hair and, 211 individualizing colors, 63-64\r\nseasonal chart for, 24-25\r\nshirts, 40\r\nshopping guide for, 24, 221-22\r\nsportswear colors, 64\r\nSurvival wardrobe colors, 99\r\ntie colors/patterns, 153-54, 155\r\n\r\nCREDITS\r\nThanks to the following models for their participation: Terry Applebee (Panache) pp. 18, 19, 30; Joe Banks\r\n(Panache) p. 27; Steve Black, p. 30; Neil Bonin (Panache) p. 27; John Bracken (Zoli) p. 39; Arthur Brooks (Funny\r\nFace) pp. 19, 20, 35; William Fitzgerald, p. 31; Joe Flemrring (Central Casting) p. 38; Jay Gould (Wilhelmina) p. 34; Addison Greene (Funny Face) p. 34; John Healy (Central Casting) p. 31; Tim Horan (International Legends) p. 38; Bob Jundelin (Funny Face) pp. 17, 20, 39; Mel Jurden (Funny Face) p. 31; Tim Kelley, p. 27; Calvin Kirby (Central Casting) p. 39; Lowell McGlothian (Ford Models) p. 38; J.R. Moyers, p. 35; Billy O'Briant (Panache) p. 31; Steve Puchaski (Wilhelmina) p. 30; Gordon Ramsey (Funny Face) p. 30; Stephen Reeder, p. 34; John Rusnak (Panache)\r\np. 34; Dale Schusterman, p. 27; Ben Short (Funny Face) p. 26; Jacques Silberstein, pp. 17, 18; Dan S. Smith\r\n(Panache) p. 26; Joe Smith, p. 39; Richard Smith (Ford Models) p. 35; Toshio Soto (Funny Face) p. 26; Rick\r\nSpates (Funny Face) p. 38; Dale Stephenson (Panache) p. 35; Dean Vernon (Funny Face) p. 26\r\nPhotos by Jacques Silberstein (except J.R. Moyers, photo by David Neely). Grooming by Anne Schwab's Model\r\nStore (Washington, D.C.) and Bill Westmoreland (N.Y.C.)\r\nThanks to the following designers and stores for providing the clothing for the photographs in this book: Etienne Aigner; Bacarrat for Van Heusen Designer Group; Peter Barton's Closet; Geoffrey Beene; Britches of Georgetown; D. Cenci, New York; Country Britches; Cricketeer; Eagle Shirt Makers; Alan Flusser; Henry\r\nGrethel; Hathaway; Hennessy for Van Heusen Designer Group; Alexander Julian; Calvin Klein; Lacoste; Ted\r\nLapidus; Ralph Lauren; Mano-A-Mano, New York; Saks Fifth Avenue, Chevy Chase; Van Heusen Designer\r\nGroup\r\n\r\n\r\nCOLOR FOR MEN\r\nIf you would like the name of the Color For Men consultant nearest you, or if you\r\nwould like to purchase a set of fabric swatches in your season's colors with a checkbook-style carrying case call: (703) 560-7111\r\nor write to the following address: P.O. Box 3241,\r\nFalls Church, VA 22043\r\nIf you would like to become a Color For Men consultant, send a photo, resume,\r\nand a brief statement on why you want to be a consultant to:\r\nColor For Men\r\nTraining Department\r\n2721 A Merrilee Drive\r\nFairfax, VA 22031\r\nFor further information, call: (703) 560-7111\r\ncolorformenOOcaro\r\ncolorformenOOcaro\r\nColoribrbkn\r\nA total wardrobe system for every man of every age and life-style.\r\nA complete approach to looking your best in whatever youVe wearing.\r\nA custom-designed program that uses your assets to best advantage.\r\n| A system that can make every man look and feel better.\r\nBased on the same system that has already worked for millions of women\r\nand which made Carole Jackson's Color Me Beautiful a # 1 bestseller for three\r\nconsecutive years, Colorfor Men is foolproof and scientific and works for\r\nevery part of your wardrobe from your business suit to yourjogging suit.\r\nHere's how it works. Using basic principles to understand the subtleties of\r\nyour skin, hair, and eye color, you match yourself to one of four seasonal palettes.\r\nThen you'll discover which shades of color in clothes complement your natural\r\ncoloring. You can still wear every color, it's the shade and the combinations\r\nthat make the difference.\r\nBut color is only the beginning of the Colorfor Men system. Carole Jackson\r\nalso shows you how to select casual clothes and accessories, how to determine\r\nyour clothing personality, and even offers tips on your glasses and hairstyle.\r\nColotlhrMm\r\nThe complete wardrobe system no man can afford to miss.\r\nThe foremost authority on color and image enhancement,\r\nCarole Jackson is founder and Chairman of the Board of\r\nColor Me Beautiful, Inc., an internationally acclaimed,\r\nmultimillion-dollar corporation whose success has earned\r\nher the title \"First Lady of Color'.'\r\no '70999\"01095 1 3 isbn o-BMS-BMsma-D","source":"978-0345345462","metadata":{"authors":"Carole Jackson","published":5121987,"categories":["color","seasonal palette","formal","business","business casual","outfits"]}}