CircuitSetup provides complete Flux Capacitors occasionally, and kit parts such as the electronics, a window kit and the back board on a regular basis.
Here is some information on the other parts you'll need in addition to the kits:
The box is a Stahlin J1210HPL, still available. The color does not match the movies, but it can be spray-painted; a suitable color would be Rust-Oleum Coastal Grey or Pantone 424C.
CircuitSetup's kits come with templates for holes and the door window.
For replicating exactly what is seen in the movies, the door latches need to be moved inward by one inch:
⚠ Warning: This box is made from molded fiberglass reinforced polyester. This is a highly dangerous material, so wear a proper mask when drilling, sawing or sanding.
The Original FC's box, as used in the movies, has six large holes at the bottom. I didn't drill those holes because a) they aren't visible anyway, and b) those holes allow light from the inside to flood out and cause unwanted effects.
Instead, I used the buttom for the controls and connectors.
Since the SD card on the control board is inaccessible after assembling the FC (but required to install/update the sound-pack), I used a microSD extension (like this one), and mounted the slot through a hole in the bottom of my FC so that the SD card can be accessed at any time.
From left to right:
- Time Travel button (connects "TT_IN" and "3V3" on the FC control board)
- Time Travel input for connecting TCD by wire (outer: GND, inner "TT_IN" from the FC control board)
- microSD extension
- Speaker (using Radbench's speaker grill "Speaker_Grill_RBv1")
- USB and power (using Radbench's bracket "PowerUsbMount")
As a speaker, I used this one; I cut off the protruding screw mounts and glued it onto the back side of the back board.
The USB connector is not required for normal use (I installed it for firmware development reasons only). I used an USB extension cable like this one; I simply trimmed it to fit into the bracket. Note: Newer CircuitSetup boards come with an USB-C connector on the Control Board instead of the previous Micro-USB.
The power connector is an adapter like this, which fits nicely into the bracket:
Since the bright LEDs draw considerable power, it is recommended to use a 4A power supply with a short cable.
The CircuitSetup back board is basically suitable to fit the Torr relay replicas and accessories from Radbench's collection, such as L-brackets and acrylic "light-bars".
Since I try to avoid 3D-printed parts as much as possible, I went for replicas made from brass by user stuff565 on ebay (he is a well known member of the Delorean Time Machine Builders scene, and active in the Flux Capacitor Prop Building group on Facebook).
If you go this route, you need to drill new or enlarge preexisting holes in CircuitSetup's back board to fit the tubes, and due to their weight, the "relays" need to be screwed onto the back board. The resin inside the relay replicas is fine for screws, a bit of pre-drilling is recommended. I used three screws per "relay".
Also, for the brass relay replicas,
- the L-bracket and the cable boots needs to be larger, and
- the light bars need to be a bit taller.
Suitable STL-files matching the brass-replicas for brackets ("Relay_L_Bracket_v1") and light bars ("Light bar - 81x29") are in this repository.
The yellow cables are simply yellow 7mm ignition cables, easy to find. Suitable boots for the ignition cables are available here, and they come with O-rings.
The light bars are 10mm acrylic glass. For above named brass Torr replicas, an STL file and a pic showing the dimensions are here in this repo ("Light bar - 81x29" and "lightBar_Dims"). Other Torr replicas might need other dimensions.
Radbench and others usually spray paint the light bars with "mirror silver" before coating them in black. I had no luck with this as the mirror silver color caused cracks in the acrylic. So I skipped this step and only painted the outsides black (using a water-based color). IMHO the mirror paint is pointless because the light is reflected by the surface of the acrylic glass anyway.
As a final step I slightly sanded the unpainted top surfaces so that the individual LEDs aren't clearly visible in the end.
Elbows: These are aviation plugs going by MS3108B, dimensions "20-29" (that is indeed the designation, not a range) and 32. On the original, these were made by Cannon (ITT), but those are no longer available. JAE is a suitable replacement, and those offered by Chinese vendors on ebay also match closely. I removed the electrical components inside the plug and used screws to attach it to the box. (Good replicas are available here.)
Big pipe on top: On the Original, allegedly Lasco 2"; I used a Genova 30720 (2"). Beware, many ebay sellers quietely ship other brands/models despite explicitly advertising this type. In order to attach it to the box, I glued a disc of wood into the bottom end, and screwed it onto the top part of the box. (A good replica is now available here.)
The black pipe on the left and the hose on the right are fully custom made; the hose is enclosed in parts used in compressed air equipment. Both are attached using screws.
If you avoid 3D-printed parts in general (or use a UV- and heat-resistant filament/resin) and attach parts properly, the FC is perfectly fine to be mounted in an actual Delorean.
Since the bright LEDs draw considerable power, it is recommended to use a 4A power supply and a short cable with large wire diameters (min AWG16) between the power supply and the FC. A long/thin cable, due to its resistance, might cause under-voltage and therefore problems like LEDs behaving erratically or even crashes of the FC's CPU.
Text & images: (C) Thomas Winischhofer ("A10001986"). See LICENSE. Source: https://fc.out-a-ti.me