Building Your RaspiRobotBoard
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The RaspiRobotBoard comes as a kit of components that you have to assemble yourself. This means there is some soldering to be done. However, construction is pretty easy. There are no difficult surface mout components to solder. It should not take you longer than half an hour to make the board.
First of all, two rules when using the RaspiRobotBoard. If you break either of these rules, there is a good chance your Raspberry Pi will be damaged.
1. ALWAYS disconnect the power before you attach the RaspiRobotBoard and make sure that the RaspiRobotBoard connector is plugged squarely into both sets of pins on the connector and is the correct way around before connecting power again.
2. Never power the Raspberry Pi from both its usual miniUSB connector and by battery power from the RaspiRobotBoard. One or the other but NEVER both.
Step 1. Check that you have everything
The following components are included in your kit:
|R1, R2, R5||3||270Ω resistor (red, purple, brown stripes)|
|R3, R4, R7, R8||4||1kΩ resistor (brown, black, red stripes)|
|R6||1||470Ω resistor (yellow, purple, brown stripes)|
|C3||1||100nF capacitor (number 104)|
|LED 1, LED2||2||LEDs|
|IC1||1||L293D (16 pins)|
|IC2||1||LM2940CT-5.0 (3 pin)|
|IC3||1||7406N (14 pin)|
|I2C, SER||2||4-way header sockets|
|SW1, SW2||2||Header pins snap to 2 x 2way|
|OC1, OC2||2||2-way header sockets|
|L, R||1||2 x 2 way screw terminals slotted together|
|6V||1||DC power socket|
|GPIO socket||1||2 x 13 way socket|
Step 2. Solder the GPIO Socket
Start by soldering the big GPIO socket onto the board.
Remember that this will be on the opposite side of the board from all the other components.
Start by soldering just one pin, and make sure that the socket is level and fits tight to the PCB before you solder the rest of the pins.
When you have soldered all the connections, turn it over to see the bottom of the board. It should look like this:
Step 3. Solder the resistors
The next step is to solder the resistors. Start by finding the three 270 Ω resistors R1, R2 and R5. Bend the leads and push them through the holes on the top side of the board, then flip the board over and solder the leads, before snipping off the excess lead.
When those resistors have been soldered, flip the board over and it should look like this:
Repeat this for the remainder of the resistors. Note, we have yet to solder R6 in the picture below. That is just an error in the photograph. You can solder it in now.
Step 4. Solder C3 and the LEDs
Solder in the small capacitor C3 and the two LEDs. Unlike the components so far, LEDs must be soldered the correct way around. Solder the longer positive lead towards the top edge of the board.
Step 5. Solder the IC (or IC sockets)
If you want to use IC sockets, solder the IC sockets into place. Otherwise solder the ICs directly to the board. Make sure that the notch on the ICs is towards the top of the board for both ICs.
Step 6. Solder the DC jack and screw terminals
Solder the DC jack and then the screw terminals into place. Solder the screw terminals first as they are a bit lower to the board than the DC jack.
Step 7. Solder the header pins
Soldering the header pins into place can be a bit tricky. Pushing a bit of adhesive putty around the pin will help keep it in place while you solder it. It is also a good idea to solder just one pin first and make sure that it is straight before you solder the other.
Step 8. Solder the header sockets
Soldering the header sockets is very similar to soldering the header pins. Again, adhesive putty will keep the headers in place while you solder them.
Step 9. Fit the large Capacitors C1 and C2
These capacitors have a longer positive lead and a shorter negative one. Make sure that the negative lead goes to the hole marked with a '-' sign.
Step 10. Fit the Voltage Regulator
Make sure that the voltage regulator is the correct way around, with the bare metal side towards the middle of the board.
So now that your board is fully assembled, you can test it by following this tutorial.