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Build information around the Boldport Club project 18 - The Monarch -- or how to build the most beautiful butterfly you're ever going to build 😃

The unveiling

The birth of a monarch

Bits & pieces

2 parts... ... become many

Board preparation

To build this project it is necessary to part the board into two pieces and remove the remaining bridge parts using pliers.

Removing board bridges using pliers

Since I don't like sharp edges from the "mouse bites" I'm going to sand off the edges.

Sanding off the edges

Soldering the sockets

The two halves are kept together using the sockets at the bottom side and the resistors and wires at the top. In order to being able to both connect the boards at an angle and and preventing ugly socket pins sticking out at the top I'm using a protoboard shoved between board and socket to create a nice separation before soldering the sockets:

Wedging in a protoboard to create a distance

The same is repeated on the other side yielding this:

First socket soldered viewed from the top First socket soldered in perspective

Continue the process for the other sockets:

All sockets soldered

First round of cleaning

Since the solder joints are going to be hidden under the resistors and wires it's now time for the first round of cleaning.

First Isopropanol treatment

Current limiting resistors

The 8 LEDs require current limiting resistors, 2 are used per LED for a total of 16. 6 pairs are going to be the legs for the Monarch which I'm going to solder together first

Stack of resistors

The 6 legs of the monarch

Creating the angle between the wings

Here comes the tricky part: The first resistors we're soldering at the top will define the angle the wings will stay in, so we need to bend the wings, place the resistor, hold everything in place and solder both ends of the the resistor at the same time. I find this easiest to accomplish by roughly soldering the resistor at the top (instead of the bottom).

The first resistor keeping the wings at an angle

And then I'm clipping the the legs at the bottom as close as possible to the board for the doming...

Domes... nothing but domes

And I'm using my finger to bend the clippings to create the direct connections

Bending the clippings First block of connections done

On board resistors

Next are the on-board resistors. For this I'm clipping the remaining resistors on one side after a few millimeters

One side of the remaining resistors shortened

The solder that short side to the board

One side of the remaining resistors soldered

Then clip the older side to fit, bend it down and solder it too

Other side shortened to fit ... and soldered

And then we're repeating that for the other resistors

The remaining resistors And soldered to the board as before

Finishing the top connections

At the top we're going to solder the remaining resistor and more clippings now:

Rest of the top connections soldered

Deciding where to put the LEDs

In this build I decided to put the LEDs at the bottom and as close as possible to the board, so I clipped the legs of the LEDs at about 2mm.

LEDs clipped

Soldering the SMD parts

The kit contains two real SMD parts: the switch and the battery holder. I'm starting with the latter and then add the switch before adding the LEDs.

Soldering the battery holder Soldering the switch

Adding the capacitors

Now it's time to add the capacitors, again clipped for a perfect placement:

Soldering the caps

Make it shine

Now I'm going to add the LEDs. You have the option of putting them on top or bottom, having a little separation between boards and LEDs or not. I decided to go bottom and without distance this time:

After adding the LEDs

A monarch needs legs

After everything else is mounted it's finally time to add the legs. I've decided to to make the legs long and with sharply bent feet.

Feeting On its feet

Last step: the antennas

The antennas need some special attention. I've first straightened the single piece of 16cm wire and cut it exactly in two halves. Then I soldered them both onto the board and then curled them in...

Two straight wires And then adding the curls

Firing it up

Now after putting all the chips and a battery in, let's see it in action...

Simple test Mugshot