Use zarr-python default open mode when opening arrays #10430
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This is an experimental PR, aimed a fixing errors in the upstream CI (e.g., see https://github.com/pydata/xarray/actions/runs/15646254224/job/44084198866) caused by (the unreleased) zarr-developers/zarr-python#3068.
Instead of defaulting to opening an array with mode='r', if not specified this defers choice of the mode to the default in zarr-python. In zarr-python 3 the default is mode='a', which avoids issues around requesting a read-only array from a writeable store.