[CI, bugfix] correct stability issues in CondaRecipes (backport #2493)

[mergify]

Description

conda update --all is known to be unstable. It is not guaranteed that all packages updated will properly work together even though they may pass the conda dependency checks.

Such was the case with ctypes on WindowsCondaRecipe.

The update conda step now properly does as stated, and follows the convention in CondaEnv CI testing.

NOTE: tests that were introduced in #2452 caused timeouts in this CI job, and must be disabled temporarily.

performance benchmarks unnecessary.

PR should start as a draft, then move to ready for review state after CI is passed and all applicable checkboxes are closed.
This approach ensures that reviewers don't spend extra time asking for regular requirements.

You can remove a checkbox as not applicable only if it doesn't relate to this PR in any way.
For example, PR with docs update doesn't require checkboxes for performance while PR with any change in actual code should have checkboxes and justify how this code change is expected to affect performance (or justification should be self-evident).

---

This is an automatic backport of pull request #2493 done by [Mergify](https://mergify.com).

[mergify]

Cherry-pick of 2494172 has failed:

On branch mergify/bp/rls/2025.6.0-rls/pr-2493
Your branch is up to date with 'origin/rls/2025.6.0-rls'.

You are currently cherry-picking commit 2494172.
  (fix conflicts and run "git cherry-pick --continue")
  (use "git cherry-pick --skip" to skip this patch)
  (use "git cherry-pick --abort" to cancel the cherry-pick operation)

Changes to be committed:
	modified:   .ci/pipeline/conda-recipe-lnx.yml
	modified:   .ci/pipeline/conda-recipe-win.yml

Unmerged paths:
  (use "git add <file>..." to mark resolution)
	both modified:   tests/test_model_builders.py

To fix up this pull request, you can check it out locally. See documentation: https://docs.github.com/en/pull-requests/collaborating-with-pull-requests/reviewing-changes-in-pull-requests/checking-out-pull-requests-locally

[codecov]

Codecov Report

All modified and coverable lines are covered by tests ✅

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