release-23.2: kv: add more tracing on the commit path

[arulajmani]

Backport 3/3 commits from #148534.

/cc @cockroachdb/release

---

See individual commits for details.

@tbg I don't imagine any of this to have made a big difference in the investigation FWIW. I went through the entire KV commit path and added tracing for bits that may be interesting -- happy to take things out if any of them seem overkill or useless.

release justification: obs change.

[blathers-crl]

Thanks for opening a backport.

Please check the backport criteria before merging:

• Backports should only be created for serious
  issues or test-only changes.
• Backports should not break backwards-compatibility.
• Backports should change as little code as possible.
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• Backports should not add new functionality (except as defined
  here).
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• All backports must be reviewed by the owning areas TL. For more information as to how that review should be conducted, please consult the backport
  policy.

If your backport adds new functionality, please ensure that the following additional criteria are satisfied:

• There is a high priority need for the functionality that cannot wait until the next release and is difficult to address in another way.
• The new functionality is additive-only and only runs for clusters which have specifically “opted in” to it (e.g. by a cluster setting).
• New code is protected by a conditional check that is trivial to verify and ensures that it only runs for opt-in clusters. State changes must be further protected such that nodes running old binaries will not be negatively impacted by the new state (with a mixed version test added).
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Also, please add a brief release justification to the body of your PR to justify this
backport.

[blathers-crl]

It looks like your PR touches production code but doesn't add or edit any test code. Did you consider adding tests to your PR?

_{🦉 Hoot! I am a Blathers, a bot for CockroachDB. My owner is dev-inf.}

[cockroach-teamcity]

This change is