|
| 1 | +Ethoscope core |
| 2 | +============== |
| 3 | + |
| 4 | +This document describes the core of the ethoscope device. |
| 5 | +That is the device without arena or extra modules. |
| 6 | +The core of the device is made of three parts: |
| 7 | + |
| 8 | +* the **head**, which holds the Raspebbery Pi an the camera. |
| 9 | +* the **base**, which diffuses light though different types of arenas (read about arenas [here](TODO)). |
| 10 | +* the **side walls**, which connect the base to the head. |
| 11 | + |
| 12 | +An assembled core looks like this: |
| 13 | + |
| 14 | + |
| 15 | + |
| 16 | +Building a core |
| 17 | +------------------ |
| 18 | + |
| 19 | +A list of all components (or BOM) is available [here](./BOM.csv). |
| 20 | + |
| 21 | +So before we start, we should have something like: |
| 22 | + |
| 23 | + |
| 24 | + |
| 25 | + |
| 26 | +In addition, you will need several tools and consumables such as: |
| 27 | + |
| 28 | +* Allan keys |
| 29 | +* soldering iron |
| 30 | +* super glue |
| 31 | +* heat shrink |
| 32 | +* solder |
| 33 | + |
| 34 | +GPIO connector |
| 35 | +---------------- |
| 36 | + |
| 37 | +In order to power the infrared (IR) light, the General Purpose Input Output (GPIO) of the Raspberry Pi is connected to the base by a ribbon cable. |
| 38 | +We can build a simple connector that looks like that: |
| 39 | + |
| 40 | + |
| 55 | + |
| 56 | +The yellow dashed lined indicate where we need to solder. |
| 57 | + |
| 58 | +You can also notice that **heat shrink** have been put around the wires so that we ensure proper insulation. |
| 59 | + |
| 60 | +After is has been soldered, the led strip must be passed **from the outside** to the inside, by the connector hole. |
| 61 | +Then, we can stick the light to its support, and glue the support to the side of the base: |
| 62 | + |
| 63 | + |
| 64 | + |
| 65 | + |
| 66 | +Head |
| 67 | +-------------------- |
| 68 | +The head is the single most important part of the device. |
| 69 | +It is made of a Raspberry Pi, and peripherals, enclosed by pair(lower and upper) of 3d printed parts. |
| 70 | + |
| 71 | +The steps to build the head are the following: |
| 72 | + |
| 73 | +1. Generate a **SD card** (it contains the operating system and all the software used by the ethoscope). |
| 74 | +2. Plug the SD card in the Pi. |
| 75 | +3. Place the **camera** on the lower part, and screw from the outside using M2 bolts along with the nylon nuts (sub-picture A, below). |
| 76 | +4. Position the **Raspberry Pi** in the lower part, above the camera, and screw it from the outside, with two M3 bolts (sub-picture B, below). |
| 77 | +5. Connect the camera, the **GPIO connector** and the wireless dongle to the Pi. |
| 78 | +6. In the upper part, there are four holes in the corners. They allow us to close the box with screws. You want to **insert a nut in each slit** under the hole, |
| 79 | +7. Now, we can **close the box** (sub-picture C, below) and screw the upper and lower parts together, using four M3 screws. |
| 80 | +8. The last thing we want to do is plugging the micro-usb power supply in the Pi. |
| 81 | + |
| 82 | + |
| 83 | + |
| 84 | +The finis head should look like this: |
| 85 | + |
| 86 | + |
| 87 | + |
| 88 | +Last bits: |
| 89 | +Before you can start working, you will have to **change the focus of the camera**. |
| 90 | +I am afraid this has to be done manually. A very good explanation is available here(TODO). |
| 91 | + |
| 92 | + |
| 93 | + |
| 94 | + |
| 95 | + |
| 96 | + |
| 97 | + |
| 98 | + |
| 99 | + |
| 100 | + |
| 101 | + |
| 102 | + |
| 103 | + |
| 104 | + |
| 105 | + |
| 106 | + |
| 107 | + |
| 108 | + |
| 109 | + |
| 110 | + |
| 111 | + |
0 commit comments