The acrylic case is built in layers. I've included DXF files suitable for laser printing, they use MM as units. Layers are built in roughly alphabetical order from the top down, but some layers appear twice and may be different thicknesses.
Around the edge of all the layers (except the last one) are holes to hold the whole sandwich together. The A (top) and L (bottom) layers have holes sized for M2 screws. The layers between have holes sized for M2 standoffs. You can screw into the standoffs from the top and bottom to secure the assembly. You will need LONG standoffs... I had to combine a couple to get them long enough.
The bottom two layers are held together with 3mm long M2 heat set inserts.
Each of the bottom two layers are 1.5mm so the insert neatly joins them
together when inserted through both. They serve to secure the very bottom M
layer to the bottom L layer and also provide fixing points for the mainboard
and battery.
Please see this table below for full details of all the layers. Since the actual thickness of cut acrylic will usually vary, you may need to add or remove some of the general spacer layers (E/G) or try different thicknesses. I ended up using all of these as is, with the exception of one of the 'C' layers
| Layer | Thickness (MM) | Notes | Image |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | 1.5 | Top |  |
| B | 2.0 |  |
|
| C (1) | 1.5 | C layers combined = 2.5mm |  |
| C (2) | 1.0 | C layers combined = 2.5mm | |
| D | 1.5 | KB Plate |  |
| E (1) | 1.5 | E/G Layers use same file |  |
| F | 1.5 | Power switch |  |
| G | 3.0 | E/G Layers use same file | |
| H | 3.0 |  |
|
| E (2) | 1.5 | E/G Layers use same file | |
| I | 3.0 |  |
|
| J (1) | 2.0 |  |
|
| J (2) | 2.0 | |
|
| K | 3.0 |  |
|
| L | 1.5 | Bottom |  |
| M | 1.5 | Bottom |  |