[BUG] Docker compose build panics in 2.17.2 with DOCKER_BUILDKIT=0

[jon-v]

Description

After upgrading from 2.16.0-1~ubuntu.22.04~jammy to 2.17.2-1~ubuntu.22.04~jammy on our build/CI server, all pipelines started failing with this error from docker compose build:

panic: assignment to entry in nil map
goroutine 26 [running]:
github.com/compose-spec/compose-go/types.MappingWithEquals.OverrideBy(...)
	github.com/compose-spec/compose-go@v1.13.2/types/types.go:427
github.com/docker/compose/v2/pkg/compose.(*composeService).build.func1({0x22545e0, 0xc0005af6c0}, {0xc0001bea10, 0x3})
	github.com/docker/compose/v2/pkg/compose/build.go:78 +0x834
github.com/docker/compose/v2/pkg/compose.(*graphTraversal).run.func1()
	github.com/docker/compose/v2/pkg/compose/dependencies.go:127 +0x63
golang.org/x/sync/errgroup.(*Group).Go.func1()
	golang.org/x/sync@v0.1.0/errgroup/errgroup.go:75 +0x64
created by golang.org/x/sync/errgroup.(*Group).Go
	golang.org/x/sync@v0.1.0/errgroup/errgroup.go:72 +0xa5
Command exited with non-zero status 2

I found two ways to stop the error from happening:

1. Remove DOCKER_BUILDKIT=0 from our build script (we are using this because of compose up creates duplicated image ids when using buildkit #9599)
2. Downgrade to 2.16.0-1~ubuntu.22.04~jammy

Steps To Reproduce

1. Upgrade to 2.17.2.
2. Run DOCKER_BUILDKIT=0 docker compose build

Compose Version

2.17.2

Docker Environment

After downgrading the docker compose plugin:

Client:
 Context:    default
 Debug Mode: false
 Plugins:
  buildx: Docker Buildx (Docker Inc.)
    Version:  v0.10.4
    Path:     /usr/libexec/docker/cli-plugins/docker-buildx
  compose: Docker Compose (Docker Inc.)
    Version:  v2.16.0
    Path:     /usr/libexec/docker/cli-plugins/docker-compose
  scan: Docker Scan (Docker Inc.)
    Version:  v0.23.0
    Path:     /usr/libexec/docker/cli-plugins/docker-scan

Server:
 Containers: 145
  Running: 145
  Paused: 0
  Stopped: 0
 Images: 677
 Server Version: 23.0.2
 Storage Driver: overlay2
  Backing Filesystem: extfs
  Supports d_type: true
  Using metacopy: false
  Native Overlay Diff: true
  userxattr: false
 Logging Driver: journald
 Cgroup Driver: systemd
 Cgroup Version: 2
 Plugins:
  Volume: local
  Network: bridge host ipvlan macvlan null overlay
  Log: awslogs fluentd gcplogs gelf journald json-file local logentries splunk syslog
 Swarm: inactive
 Runtimes: io.containerd.runc.v2 runc
 Default Runtime: runc
 Init Binary: docker-init
 containerd version: 1e1ea6e986c6c86565bc33d52e34b81b3e2bc71f
 runc version: v1.1.4-0-g5fd4c4d
 init version: de40ad0
 Security Options:
  apparmor
  seccomp
   Profile: builtin
  cgroupns
 Kernel Version: 5.15.0-69-generic
 Operating System: Ubuntu 22.04.2 LTS
 OSType: linux
 Architecture: x86_64
 CPUs: 4
 Total Memory: 31.35GiB
 Name: qa-b242c0c
 ID: TMCP:7FGI:RJ2M:VWWN:R3LS:BLPM:ONHL:3IX7:CFTW:6RD7:XWK2:2RGD
 Docker Root Dir: /var/lib/docker
 Debug Mode: false
 Registry: https://index.docker.io/v1/
 Experimental: false
 Insecure Registries:
  127.0.0.0/8
 Live Restore Enabled: false

Anything else?

No response