Eclipse Planning 2024

[dnewman-gpsw]

For those lucky to be within the path of totality for the solar eclipse coming up on April 8, 2024 in North America, we have created a tool to optimize your capture. Please check out the Eclipse Timelapse Planner. Looking for feedback, testers, and to see your results here.

[MeanBear8207]

Certified filter is required to protect the GoPro sensor? Is it possible to shoot the eclipse without any kind of filter?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Great question. No solar filter is required for your GoPro.

[traisjames]

So the GoPro can look straight at the sun without damage?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Yes, does this every time you take a GoPro outside. The ultra wide lens sees a lot. It will not damage the camera.

[dnewman-gpsw]

How you are planning to shot the eclipse?

[dnewman-gpsw]

HERO12 Labs FW out today 3/28, includes the exposure monitoring of time/night-lapse modes. This was added to help shooting the eclipse (at least in experimenting on the days before the eclipse.)

[dnewman-gpsw]

Labs gets a big mention in the official GoPro eclipse tips video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz2X6HoMnKw

[CloudlessEveryDay]

I'm new to GoPro Labs and GitHub so hopefully my questions make sense. I want to test out the Type 4 option as much as possible, which I realize isn't completely possible to do ahead of time, and my questions are as follows:

1. If I enter the parameters for Totality, e.g. 13:00 start time, is that automatically interpreted as 13:00 on April 8, or can I test it on April 4 by specifying all the settings and then scanning the generated QR code i.e. would it start the process at 13:00 on whatever day I scan the code or will it only work on April 8?
2. Is it timezone specific or will it use whatever timezone my GoPro is in when I scan the code? I'm currently in CDT but will be traveling to EDT (probably, depending on weather), so do I need to wait until I'm in the correct timezone before finalizing parameters and scanning the QR code? I'd hate to set it up for 13:00 CDT when I really want it to start at 13:00 EDT.
3. Similar to the previous question, does the "Set Date + Time automatically" option use the date from my laptop (given that I'm using my laptop to create the QR code)? If not, what is the date/time source used?
4. I hope to set everything up ahead of time so I don't need to worry on April 8, if I do this am I able to still use the GoPro and it will remember the settings and automatically turn on at 13:00 on April 8 and run the programs as specified in the QR code? Or is everything erased if I turn on the GoPro and use it?
5. Does it matter if the GoPro is on or off at the scheduled start time (I'd like to have it off to save battery so I'm hoping it will turn on automatically, which I believe is the case).
6. It says this creates 2 separate timelapses i.e. "The very experimental script would be to run type 2) capture until the first second of totality, then switch to type 3), automatically creating two separate video timelapses," but wouldn't it actually be 3 separate timelapse's: one before totality, one during totality, and then a third after totality (since type 2 is specifying an interval before and after totality)?

Sorry for the long post, tia for any help you can provide!

[dnewman-gpsw]

All great questions!

1. The scripts are not date sensitive, so you can practice every day before the 8th. Or can also test other totality times, to see the scripts running.

2. Simplest is to make sure your camera has local time, matching to were your are. What really matters, is the camera's time and the totality time are in the same time zone. They can both be UTC or just wrong, as long as they are wrong together. When you scan the code, the camera will report when it plans to wake and start capture, check that is the time you expected.

3. It uses the laptop time, so do check it is on the same time zone as your solar data.

4. I would scan the QR Code on the morning before the event (or the evening before if you are at the planned location.) That way you can use your GoPro freely in the meantime, and enjoy the eclipse without messing with camera(s) on the event day.

5. It will be off, and automatically start at the scheduled time. So if you start with a full change, the camera will boot with a full charge. Sleep/wake event uses very little power. Do a practice run (or two) to observe the battery used through your planned capture time.

6. No, just two captures. Switch at totality will be a tricky moment, so doing that twice is even more tricky. The first type 2 (modified Timelapse) capture will be from your start time to the totality (remember to set the seconds,) the second will be the type 3 (modified night lapse) from totality start to a few minutes after totality ends.

[CloudlessEveryDay]

Where can I find the explanation of the command broken down line by line?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Posted four hours ago in this thread.

[dnewman-gpsw]

You must be in Pro Mode for any of this to work. Guessing here. I just added the auto switch to pro mode for new-to-Labs users.

[CloudlessEveryDay]

I believe Pro Mode was the issue as you guessed. I tried again and results seem to be correct.
Based on the below parameters, here are expected/actual results (camera time is offset by -3 hours from CDT):

1. Expected: should start recording at 8:03 CDT, run for 10 minutes, then switch to different mode for 7 minutes starting at 8:13 CDT

2. Actual: started recording at 8:03 CDT ended 8:20 CDT, as expected
   Total time on night lapse file: 2 seconds on the first file, 17 seconds on second file
   First file: 5:03PM timestamp file is night lapse, 5.3K, 10s interval, auto shutter, ISO min/max both 100, length is 2 seconds (so 10 minutes of elapsed time = 2 seconds of time-lapse)
   Second file: 5:13 pm timestamp file is also night lapse, also 5.3K, auto interval, auto shutter, ISO min 100, ISO Max 800, length is 17 seconds (so 7 minutes of elapsed time = 17 seconds of time-lapse)

Thank you for your help! Tomorrow I'm going to try with actual CDT times, outside (expected to be cloudy though so not a great test of lighting results). Assuming all goes well I should be able to easily set this up Monday morning and not worry about it (I will have several other cameras I will have to worry about though so it's nice to have one in automatic mode!).

[dnewman-gpsw]

Mystery explained. Happy to hear it was resolved

[Gibbin82]

Hi I am in Mexico to see the eclipse and would like a little help to use the GoPro eclipse planner. Please could you advise me with the following

1: A. select Capture Type = do I need to input settings into my camera, such as ISO, TimeLapse, etc before I launch the eclipse timer tool, or does the eclipse planner tool do all this automatically depending on which capture category I choose A, B, C or D?
2: C. Totality Start = The Totalty in my location starts at 12:17:10 do I enter the seconds in the box after the time, at the end of this setting?
3: D. Totalty Length = My eclipse duration is 4m 28s do I choose the 4 minute totality length or the 5 minute?

Thanks for any help you may give I am new to GoPro cameras and I would like to make the most of this once in a lifetime opportunity

Regards, John from the U.K.

[dnewman-gpsw]

1. Currently the script in the eclipse planner sets up most of the features that you need. However it leaves the EV compensation unchanged, so if you wanted to customize that maybe a -0.5 EV. It also doesn't set the color profile leaving it at the default, but for a more advanced user I would recommend using Flat color. The scripts run: w55i1M1sM, sets a fixed white balance of 5500K, ISO Min/Max to 100, and sharpness to Medium.

2. You can set the seconds, but that is only used in type 4, as that is the only mode that switches capture style at totality.

3. The totality length is not very important, so either 4 or 5 will work well for your location. It is used to calculate the end of capture time, so it will have minimal effect of the resulting timelapse.

It is a awesome opportunity, best enjoyed while not messing with cameras. So this idea for these scripts is the camera has its plan, and you don't need to worry about it. It is still a good idea to practice on preceding days, even if only to determine where the sun and the environment will be in frame.

[Gibbin82]

Thank you, looking forward to a great show

[barkerdk]

I used the US Navy calculator for my coordinates as I'll be in the forest at the time of the eclipse- https://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/SolarEclipses

I used the live QR code now as I will definitely NOT have cell coverage at my campsite. Can I still record as normal earlier in the weekend and Monday before the eclipse or will I have to use another GoPro?

[dnewman-gpsw]

You don't have a cell connection, just set the time on GoPro(s) to make sure it is correct. The print the QR Code without the "Set date + time automatically" enabled. The QR Code will be the script for the camera action on the day of the eclipse.

[ScottNTexas]

Just downloaded and updated GoPro 11 Black want to clarify the following:

Option 4 Experimental - If I select this and scan the QR code, will it capture 60 minutes before and after the time set for totality?

Type 2 - Cool, Time Lapse Exposure Limited 10s interval, add 60 mins before and after totality
Type 3 - Very Cool, Totality optimized ~0.5s interval, add 2 mins before and after totality

[ScottNTexas]

Just had a second thought -- the 60 minute prior to totality will be after the eclipse has started at my location. The eclipse actually starts 90 minutes prior to totality and completes 19 minutes after totality. Is there any way to increase the 60 minute time frame to 90 minutes to allow for capture of the entire eclipse?

[dnewman-gpsw]

The controls are sliders, you can record up to 2 hour before and after. The reason hour was the default, as a fully changed internal battery will be sufficient (versus requiring external power), and nothing visible happens until about 10 minutes before and after. As the top of the page https://gopro.github.io/labs/control/eclipse/ tries to explain.

Type 4 - is very risky, for user who have done sufficient testing.

[Mike6284]

I entered the parameters and scanned the QR code. My Hero 11 is no longer connected via the IOS Quik app.
Is this normal?
Does the script run every day? (it's probably running now)

[dnewman-gpsw]

Power on the camera and it will tell you want it is doing. You can cancel the script if you are fast with a shutter press during the script message, or just boot without the SD card insert (the script is on the SD card.) As the script is optimizing power, it turns off wireless communications, you can turn that back on again in the menu.

[Mike6284]

Thanks. After the scheduled end of the script will it return to normal with the IOS Quik app connecting?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Wireless connection will not be automatically restored. Go to Menu->Preferences->Wireless Connections->Wireless Connections->On

Or just scan this to turn WiFi back on

[Tuckie]

Trying to use type 4, with one hour before and after totality.

Is safe to assume that the Type 2 slider is the before totality duration, and the type 3 slider is the after totality sider? Is there any way to increase the after totality duration?

[dnewman-gpsw]

The problem with type 3, it is optimized for the dark (totality) as it shoots 4 fps when there is a lot of light (after totality.) So if you extended that modes capture to a hour, you would have a timelapse that last 8+ minutes long (i.e. boring.) Most off the action of totality is in the minutes, before, after and during.

However, time-lapsing people and clouds other actions around the event could still be interesting, so we need to switch capture modes again, a few minutes after totality. So should a modify type 4 or add a type 5?

[dnewman-gpsw]

I updated Type 4 to have an extend option, creating a third timelapse that will run until your stop it (or battery runs out.)

[Mike6284]

Can you add an option to make the clouds go away🤔?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Working on that next ...

[Tuckie]

I updated Type 4 to have an extend option, creating a third timelapse that will run until your stop it (or battery runs out.)

That's awesome thank you!

[WilliamHangXu]

Thanks for sharing this! I tried Type 3 on my Hero 5 Session, but it somehow used the normal video mode instead of time lapse mode, so I got a 5 min video instead of a 30s time lapse video. Any idea what's going on?

[dnewman-gpsw]

HERO5 Session is not fully Labs enabled, and it doesn't support many of the new commands this employs. For HERO5S, just manually set TimeLapse at 5s or 10s interval and press record.

[WilliamHangXu]

Thank you!

[traisjames]

2 questions. First, any recommendations if we are not in the path of totality? Where I am we are expecting 84% coverage.

Second, there is mention about doing a factory reset of the GoPro. Is there a way to backup all the settings first and then restore them later?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Here is the issue clearly explained with not being in the totality.

From https://xkcd.com/2914/

This really very little interesting to timelapse outside of the totality, all the action happen from the transition 90% to 100%.

No need for factory resets (unless something goes wrong with an update), but design it clears out your settings, nothing is saved on camera.

[traisjames]

Yep I know the code is tempeary, but I am also thinking in general, though the labs post mentioned needing to factory reset time lapse settings.

[dnewman-gpsw]

Not really needed, that was only when troubleshooting. You can also do a preset only reset. Or you can go into the two used preset (TLV and NLV) and set normal parameters. The only thing really needed for these scripts to work, are for the time-lapse and night-lapse to be in Video not Photo mode.

[shyamrox]

I'm testing this out today - a couple things i'm not sure about:

• How do I frame my capture if I cant see what the gopro sees in the quik app? just eyeball it?
• I'm using setting type 3 with the defaults - i only get about 38seconds of (real time) totality ....is this the right setting for me?

[dnewman-gpsw]

1. You can use the Quik app before you scan the QR code. Or just use the rear LCD, it will show the same framing.
2. Assuming you are running a HERO11 or 12, Type 3 is likely the best for your shorter totality. The estimate is during totality the camera will shooting 1fps (or slightly faster), so you will have 38 frames time-lapse in the darkness. Type 1, will get you 9 frames, Type 2 only 3 frames.

[shyamrox]

Thank you!!

[DoodlesMcNoodles]

Questions about doing this with an external power bank plugged in.
I have a Hero 10 Black. I installed the Labs firmware, went to the Eclipse Planner page, selected the Type 2 capture, with time selected for the totality in my area (NE Ohio). I am planning to do a test run this afternoon.
Starting with the internal battery only, I scanned the resulting QR code with the GoPro. The display indicated it would power on and start the time lapse at 13:44, ending at 16:46. So far so good.

I then tested adding an external power bank. When I first connected it with the battery in place, the Gopro showed the internal battery was being charged, but it went into a repeating on/off reboot cycle. I then removed the internal battery and powered up with the external power bank only. I got a warning screen that there was no battery. Then replaced the internal battery and reconnected the power bank - powered on the Gopro - and it all seems ok again, although the screen shows the internal power level only, so I suspect the power bank is not really being recognized (?)

I recall from previous experience taking multi-hour videos using an external power bank, there was some kind of sequence needed to get the Gopro to "accept" and use the power bank. This was a few years ago so I don't remember precise details, but I think the best practice was to remove the internal battery, connect the external, initiate the video capture, OK the warning screen about no battery - and then it would work.

With this eclipse macro in place, I am concerned that attempting to use it with external power only will screw up with process.

So, a few questions:

1. Should I even worry at all about depending on a single fully charged internal battery, given that the Gopro will only be taking one frame every 10 seconds (although over 3 hours for the total time lapse)?

2. If I do need the external bank plus internal battery to be sure I will get through, should I expect the Gopro to cleanly switch over to the external power when the battery runs out?

3. If the battery dies partway through the eclipse, how will the macro react to battery replacement?

Thanks!

[dnewman-gpsw]

If you been a Labs user for a while, you may have seen the issue with most consumer external battery packs, there are NOT designed for time-lapse. This primary issue is they designed to charge a device to 100%, then turn off, they will not turn on again without physically re-plugging them in. This means you are only running on internal battery. I only recommend https://voltaicsystems.com/v50/ and this is what I use, as it will always supplies power while it has a charge. If you have a regular external battery (Li-Ion style), removing the GoPro battery can help, as it camera will continually draw power, but not on all batteries will behave.

Note: HERO 10 will not support the Labs hacks that limit exposure time in timelapse mode, these were added to HERO11 and 12 only. Type 1 is like best for HERO10, although Type 2 will work, but will use a longer exposure than planned, reducing the drama on the light drop.

1. In would use a full changed internal battery only, and just record +/- 1 hour around totality. There so little to see with any longer. I shot the 2017 eclipse, so I have seen the effect.
2. You could plug in extern power (or turn it on extern battery) part way through.
3. The macro will stop.

[DoodlesMcNoodles]

Thanks so much for these answers! I appreciate your help.

[dust7171]

Do you have a link to your 2017 footage (and what mode type you used or is comparable to) or representative examples of each mode? Bit of a reach but just trying to decide on best approach to use

[dnewman-gpsw]

I no longer have the raw footage, but I do know I used TLV (Time Lapse Video) modes on HERO5 Black and a prototype of GoPro Fusion 360 camera. There was no Night-lapse Video back then. I believe I used a 5s interval, recording for 3 hours, the result was boring. 95% of the footage didn't show much, so it was intercut with GoPro through a telescope. The issue I described in the eclipse planner, camera's auto exposure hides so much of the drama of totality, and the totality too short in the resulting time-lapse. Only Type 3 (and Type 4) attempts to solve the totality duration issue. Type 2 attempts to improve on the light drop for a more dramatic capture. All scripts default to recording less than 3 hours, which I strongly feel is pointless.

Here is edit I made from 2017. https://www.instagram.com/p/BYGqFz4jeTO/

[jbvazquez]

Hi I am from México I am trying to set Type 4 experimental to have 2 videos with GoPro Hero Black 10.

• Do I have to manually set 2 types of presets configuration for the Night Lapse
  • 1 for Type 2 and another for the Type 3?
  • If yes, we have to manually set this settings?
  • Does Type 2 use Timelapse and Type 3 use Night Lapse?
  • Does the script automatically change between presents?

---

• Type 2 (Capture optimized for the drop in brightness):
  • Mode: Time lapse
  • Format: Video
  • Resolution: User defined
  • Digital Lens: Wide
  • ISO Min: 100
  • ISO Max: 100
  • Interval: 10s
  • Shutter: 1/30th (I don't know how to change this setting)
  • EV Comp: 0
  • Sharpness: low
  • Color: Natural

---

• Type 3 (Super optimized for the totality):
  • Mode: Night Time lapse
  • Format: Video
  • Resolution: User defined
  • Digital Lens: Wide
  • ISO Min: 100
  • ISO Max: 800
  • Interval: Auto
  • Shutter: Auto or 1s (I don't know how to change this setting)
  • EV Comp: 0
  • Sharpness: low
  • Color Natural

[dnewman-gpsw]

All the shutter control will not work on HERO10, those extensions are HERO11 & 12 only. So the "I don't know how to change this setting" is the hack for 11 & 12 only. It is the oMEXPX=<value> part of the script. Type 4 will otherwise work on HERO10, but you will potentially get fewer frames in totality, and the camera will auto expose up to 10s.

[jbvazquez]

Thanks for the feedback so the best way to capture it will be use the Type 1 - Capture mostly optimized for the totality?

Can you review and advise for the below settings?

Mode: Night Time lapse
Format: Video
Resolution: User defined
Digital Lens: Wide
ISO Min: 100
ISO Max: 800
Interval: 4s
Shutter: Auto
EV Comp: 0
Sharpness: low
Color: Natural

[dnewman-gpsw]

I would stick with ISO Max 100.

[tji21]

Is there a recommendation on which type to select for those of us with less totality in the 48% range?

[dnewman-gpsw]

I'm sadly in a similar location. There is nothing much to timelapse at locations out of totality. The timelapse results at 50% will not look any different than a regular day. At 50% that is only 1-stop drop in light, when totality is ~12-stops. Just use solar glasses, and take a look, but it is not worth use cameras.

[Flipper0625]

I have a hero 9 and I am currently setting it up.
what works and doesn’t work with the h9 and how do you turn on pro mode I am very new to GoPro labs

[dnewman-gpsw]

HERO9 doesn't have and "easy mode" so you are already in the best mode. Just use Type 1, as all the other type require HERO11 or 12.

[dust7171]

I'm <2hrs from totality, but Hero Black 9 is different and should work with a type 3 mode, correct? I did a test capture earlier this morning and everything seemed like it was working fine.

[dnewman-gpsw]

Type 3 will mostly work, but on HERO9, there is chance the exposes will get longer than 1s. This minor, should work fine.

[dust7171]

Unfortunately I somehow think I cancelled the routine and messed up getting it re-set up when I was framing the shot (started setting it up too close to when it the routine was supposed to start) in the runup to totality, as I wanted to use my go pro a bit ina advance. I had tested out the type 3 routine twice in the morning and it recorded a timelapse the length I expected at the time I set, so I'm confident it was my issue and not something in the routine. So annoyed at myself, but had blue sky conditions the entire eclipse with 2 mins of totality, so I can't complain. What an experience! I'm now convinced that total eclipses are under-hyped and can't be understood how amazing and AWEsome they truly are until you see one.

I wanted to thank you for this anyway and especially how much time and effort you spent (apparent in this thread) to troubleshoot peoples problem and respond so quickly especially in such a time sensitive event as it approached! I wish I found this thread and routine before Saturday!

For future users, everything feels faster and all your photography plans will fall change if you aren't super focused on them, so don't do what I did and think you'll have enough time. Set it and forget it, you'll be too rushed and distracted by the event itself to focus on the minutia of camera details (unless that's your main priority, it certainly wasn't mine)

[scottymac9]

@dust7171 totally agree on the total eclipse being way more amazing than I ever expected! I thought it was way overhyped and wasn't expecting that much. Now I'm hooked and trying to figure out how to get to the next one in 2026!

[Wenty3]

This is not working with my Hero 11. Everything seems right and it even turns on at the correct time but it fails to record.

[dnewman-gpsw]

Read the troubleshooting section: https://gopro.github.io/labs/control/eclipse/ , I expect you have the preset configured wrong.

[dnewman-gpsw]

Here is San Diego, CA the eclipse has started. I will not be experiencing totality, so I'm using a telescope to see what I can.

Capture at 10:22am https://github.com/gopro/labs/assets/10856084/1e2fafa0-9994-4199-8d38-bd723201d1db

[dnewman-gpsw]

Soon I hope you will link your results here.

[husertim]

Well, that’s disappointing. I watched the GoPro turn on at the scheduled time, but it recorded nothing. Any chance my time lapse is hidden somewhere? My test worked fine.

[dnewman-gpsw]

Look on the SD card with your PC just in case, but I expect something failed.

[Lilyux91]

Hi!
I'm in Mexico City right now and approximately an hour ago, I started recording with my GoPro Hero 12 focusing directly towards the sun. The partial eclipse simply can't be appreciated... Is there a way to edit the video? Someone else with this same issue? Thanks!

[jbvazquez]

I had the same issue

[dnewman-gpsw]

There is not much to timelapse outside of the totality, and the light change too little, and the sun it still very bright. Mexico City will only get partial eclipse.

[scottymac9]

https://gopro.com/v/EBRvgVz3zQdzr

I think it turned out pretty awesome, honestly! Alexandria Bay, NY

[dnewman-gpsw]

@scottymac9 I would love the original MP4s to check out the metadata for these two captures.

[scottymac9]

@dnewman-gpsw Here's a link to download those files.

[dnewman-gpsw]

Awesome, very cool data. There were 6 frames in Type 2 segment, in which the exposure was limited to the 1/30 of a second. This was the last minute, just before totality, seen as the flat segment at the end here:

With this data, I think an optimization would be to limit the exposure to 1/60s, and run the timelapse at 5fps. This would increase from 6 frames to 20 frames, the light drop in the most dramatic segment. While 10s interval made your cloud moving more exciting, that could have been sped up in post (if we used 5fps.)

Type 3, show we could have limited the night lapse to ISO 100. Most of the totality ran a ISO 400 with 0.5s exposure. With the 1 seconds exposure limit, this would underexpose one stop more.

These are only minor tweaks, as I feel we got pretty close to ideal exposure rules.

[rocky1-308]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aqtZxaIdds11ic4qEtnSiJFWDj9msd9O/view?usp=drive_link

[dnewman-gpsw]

@rocky1-308 Thank you.

Your data also shows ISO MAX of 100 would have worked. The data if very cool to have, thanks again.

[Wenty3]

Here is the link to my original Type 3 time lapse. I was super impressed with how it turned out. We were right on the edge and it's really easy to see the round shadow on top of the clouds.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z9ppc8f9uxozkgn6dbalk/GX010718.MP4?rlkey=numrnak29mhfpjusliiodvpzh&dl=0

I am very happy with it, but I'm having trouble creating something that is worthy of sharing. I edited it a bit and posted it to Youtube, but it lost some quality in the process and the lighting isn't the best. Any advice would be appreciated. Here is the link to my Youtube video.

https://youtu.be/gMvsZ_ePcPo

Thank you to whoever did the work on this project. I wanted to fully absorb the eclipse without having to deal with cameras, but I also wanted to film it since this is probably the only one that will cross over our house in my lifetime. This was the perfect solution. I had 3 gopros rolling but this shot turned out to be my favorite. My Hero 10 was running Type 4 but the lighting isn't as good toward the end.

[scottymac9]

@Wenty3 it turned out great! Awesome job!!

[dnewman-gpsw]

@Wenty3 Thank you. I'm sharing back your exposure data. This data will help in tuning for future solar eclipses.

This my creative take on your clip. Speed it up, added contrast, vibrance and some virtual camera moment (using GoPro FX Reframe with Premiere Pro.) Shooting 8:7 (H12) or 4:3 (H11) would have helped as the 16:9 capture was rather tight (details in the top and bottom of the frame.) Youtube needs 4K to look any good today. You my use this edit any way you like: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/d6jbvigxya2a6ajxomxe3/GX010718_edit_4K.mp4?rlkey=eeqqbuasm4d9bswd9ojz7mso7&dl=0

[Wenty3]

Thank you for this! Do you want to see my Type 4 footage, too?

[dnewman-gpsw]

Yes please, all data is great.

[Wenty3]

Here are the two files that were produced by shooting Type 4 with a Hero 10. We were right on the edge so there is more light in the distance than there would have been further in.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/zo4rvavs8iygfhcmvmxjc/h?rlkey=oyv9u4xx2l1j5m8l079kwgztx&dl=0

[TomRoush]

Here's my Type 4 videos from my Hero 11. Big thanks to everyone who worked on it, it was so easy to use once I figured out how the Labs firmware works. I'm looking forward to trying again for the next eclipse

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ah-kyM-BSjFKxRvKWyT1tMcbZTqk?e=Atm6wK

[dnewman-gpsw]

Thanks Tom, so good result and more nice metadata.

[sevilladiego8]

Hey @dnewman-gpsw and team thanks so much for your work! Although it was a little cloudy on my location I think the shots turned out very E P I C! 💯 This was a Type 1 Video taken with a Hero 12 black! Take care everyone!

https://gopro.com/v/vkNlWgGwq24On

[Gibbin82]

Thank you for the hard work put in to develop the firmware, but now it’s all done please,could you advise me how to reset the cameras back to the regular firmware

[dnewman-gpsw]

Without changing firmware just scan this (follow the on-screen request for three quick button presses):

Any Labs extensions you had enabled will be removed. The camera will still be ready for Labs extensions, but will behave exactly like stock firmware (other than the Labs boot message.) If you want to replace the boot message with your owner info use: https://gopro.github.io/labs/control/owner/ You can even put spaces in just to remove any message. Looks like stock, with the added power of Labs.

If you want to completely remove Labs, I would like to hear why. Is something not working correctly for you? The procedure to remove is the same as adding, you install stock firmware from here https://gopro.com/en/us/update