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Crkbd v3

Available at: https://keyhive.xyz/shop/corne-v3

Additional images at: https://imgur.com/a/p1oGbG0

  1. Solder
  2. Flash controller
  3. Solder controller
  4. Solder the reset button
  5. Test the keyboard
  6. Break PCBs from scaffold
  7. Solder remaining components
  8. Remove from scaffolding
  9. Assemble into case
  10. Flashing firmware

Solder diodes

Soldering diodes is relatively straightforward. Refer to Soldering diodes if you need further guidance.

Solder Kailh hot swap sockets

Refer to Soldering Kailh hot swap sockets if you need further guidance.

Flash controller

Flash the controller (pro micro, Elite C, nice!nano, etc) with the firmware. This ensures that the controller works completely before soldering it permanently to the board.

The default crkbd firmware does not have LEDs enabled so if you plan on having LEDs this would be the time to modify the firmware to enable it.

Solder controller

Refer to Soldering the controller if you need further guidance.

Solder reset button

Insert into holes. Solder in place on the bottom side of the pcb.

Test the keyboard

At this point it should function as a keyboard. When you plug it in, the on-board LEDs should turn on. Insert a switch into a hot swap socket and test that a keycode is pressed. You might consider testing every key in case there are problems with the diodes or hot swap sockets.

After this, solder remaining components.

Solder underglow LEDs

⚠︎ LEDs can be very temperature sensitive. Be very careful. Consider setting your soldering to a low temp (about 200 C), using a fine tip, adding flux, and/or using a hot air station.

Tin all the pads with a small bubble of solder, not too much. Place the 5050 LED on top and center. With some light pressure, hold the led in place while you flow the solder bubbles. I use an aluminum screwdriver which also acts as a heat sink to protect the LED from burning out. Test each LED as you go.

Troubleshooting

If an LED pixel does not turn on, there are a few points of failure to verify:

  1. Are all 4 pads properly soldered?
    • Reflow the solder, careful when applying heat
    • Add more solder
  2. Is the LED damaged?
    • Replace the LED
  3. Is the PCB damaged?
    • Review the WS2812B wiring, and create a jump that completes the circuit per the schematic

Solder per-key LEDs

⚠︎ LEDs can be very temperature sensitive. Be very careful. Consider setting your soldering to a low temp (about 200C), using a fine tip, adding flux, or using a hot air station.

Tin two pads on one side. Place the LED. Flow the solder on the tinned pads. Add solder to pads on other side. Test each LED as you go.

Solder OLEDs

If you've socketed the controller, also consider socketing the OLEDs else the controller will be trapped underneath it.

Insert into holes. Consider using electrical tape to secure in place while you solder the holes on the bottom side of the PCB.

⚠︎ The OLED is not required but if you omit it, you must disable it in the firmware. If you do not, you will experience "jittery" keystrokes as if some keys were lost while in transit. Disabling it in the firmware will fix this behavior.

Solder TRRS jacks

Insert into holes. Solder in place on the bottom side of the pcb.

Remove from scaffolding

The keyboard should be fully functional at this point. Remove the scaffolding around the PCBs by using pliers placed close to the drill holes and break.

Assemble into case

At this point, you are ready to assemble the rest of the keyboard. These steps may include the following depending on the case you've chosen.

  • Install OLED covers
  • Remove protective paper on acrylic plates
  • Install standoffs onto the switch plate
  • Install the switches into plate and into the pcb
  • Screw bottom plate

Flashing firmware

Flashing the crkbd depends on the controller you used. Because of this, this guide will be high-level just to get you started with a functioning keyboard.

For the pro micro and Elite C controllers, QMK is recommended. For the nice!nano, ZMK is recommended.

QMK

Preassembled keyboards with Elite C/pro micros will likely come with the default VIA keymap enabled. Learn more about VIA at https://caniusevia.com/

To flash:

  • Setup your QMK environment by following the official QMK documentation
    • QMK Toolbox is a helper tool to flash your keyboard with but we've experienced many issues with it such that we do not recommend it and will not provide support for it. The qmk-cli is the most reliable way to flash your crkbd.
  • Compile and flash your keyboard using the default by executing the following command:
# for pro micro
qmk flash -kb crkbd -km default

# for Elite C (or any other controller that uses dfu bootloader)
qmk flash -kb crkbd -km default -bl dfu

NOTE: The default firmware does not come with the LEDs enabled in order to save space on your controller. Refer to the crkbd docs within the QMK repo for instructions on how to enable this yourself.

VIA keymap

The VIA keymap may be desireable as it allows you to use VIA to make changes to your keyboard on-the-fly. The command to do so is slightly different.

# for pro micro
qmk flash -kb crkbd/rev1/common -km via

# for Elite C
qmk flash -kb crkbd/rev1/common -km via -bl dfu

ZMK

Preassembled keyboards with nice!nanos will likely come with the default ZMK keymap enabled.

NOTE: ZMK only supports wireless split which means that you must use nice!nanos on both sides. It cannot operate using a TRRS cable (yet).

To flash:

For more resources, go to the Flashing Firmware docs.