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Switch from circle to github actions; various misc changes.
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dbp committed Aug 21, 2020
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28 changes: 0 additions & 28 deletions .circleci/config.yml
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51 changes: 51 additions & 0 deletions .github/workflows/deploy.yml
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name: Build and deploy site

on:
push:
branches: [ master ]
pull_request:
branches: [ master ]

jobs:
do_it:

runs-on: ubuntu-latest

steps:
- uses: actions/checkout@v2
- uses: actions/setup-haskell@v1
with:
enable-stack: true
stack-version: 'latest'

- name: Cache
uses: actions/cache@v1
env:
cache-name: cache-stack-1
with:
path: ~/.stack
key: ${{ runner.os }}-build-${{ env.cache-name }}
restore-keys: |
${{ runner.os }}-build-${{ env.cache-name }}
- name: Build
run: stack --resolver lts-12.26 --install-ghc runghc --package hakyll site build
- name: Deploy everything but artifact js
uses: jakejarvis/s3-sync-action@master
with:
args: --acl public-read --follow-symlinks --exclude \"artifacts/*/*.js\"
env:
AWS_S3_BUCKET: 'dbp.io'
AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID: ${{ secrets.AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID }}
AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY: ${{ secrets.AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY }}
AWS_REGION: 'us-east-1' # optional: defaults to us-east-1
SOURCE_DIR: '_site' # optional: defaults to entire repository
- name: Deploy artifact js
uses: jakejarvis/s3-sync-action@master
with:
args: --acl public-read --follow-symlinks --exclude \"*\" --include \"artifacts/*/*.js\" --content-type \"application/javascript\" --content-encoding \"gzip\"
env:
AWS_S3_BUCKET: 'dbp.io'
AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID: ${{ secrets.AWS_ACCESS_KEY_ID }}
AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY: ${{ secrets.AWS_SECRET_ACCESS_KEY }}
AWS_REGION: 'us-east-1' # optional: defaults to us-east-1
SOURCE_DIR: '_site' # optional: defaults to entire repository
74 changes: 74 additions & 0 deletions _site/apple/boat.html
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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" />
<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1">
<title>dbp.io :: Apple 16</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/default.css" />
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/syntax.css" />
</head>
<body>
<div id="navigation">
<a class="t b" href="https://dbp.io">Daniel Patterson</a>
<a class="t h" href="#">::</a>
<span class="t">
<a href="https://dbp.io">dbp.io</a>
</span>
<span class="t">
email: <a href="mailto:dbp@dbpmail.net">dbp@dbpmail.net</a>
</span>
<span class="t">
pubkey: <a href="../static/dbp.gpg">A98D4AF0</a>
</span>
<span class="t">
work: <a target="_blank" href="http://prl.ccs.neu.edu">prl.ccs.neu.edu</a>
</span>
</div>
<style>
#navigation {
display: none;
}

table {
width: auto;
}

</style>
<h1 id="apple-16-unofficial-website">Apple 16 – unofficial website</h1>
<ul class="menu">
<li>
<a href="../apple">About</a>
</li>
<li class="cur">
<a href="../apple/boat.html">My Boat</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/comparison.html">Comparison</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/building.html">Building</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/others.html">Other Builds</a>
</li>
</ul>
<h2 id="my-boat">My Boat</h2>
<p>While certainly many details on this site will be relevant to any variety of Apple 16, some may not, so it’s important to highlight the boat I’m building:</p>
<ol type="1">
<li>4 plank per side “Apple AHL” as it’s described in some of Tom’s pages, rather than the 5 plank “Swedish Apple” (or the gaff cutter – which doesn’t describe the hull, but rather what goes above!). The 5 plank Apple requires 6 sheets of ply for planks, rather than 4 sheets for the 4 plank Apple: given that the marine ply I’m using (Occume) is tropical hardwood, minimizing it is a no brainer (I’m sure I would use off-cuts in the 5 plank version). I was also just amazed by the way that Tom nested the planks into the sheets, and how that turned into such a beautiful 3D shape – often the planks would be less than an inch from each other in multiple places.</li>
<li>Single rig, with a small mizzen. This is shown in the picture above. The plans account for a larger mizzen “light-air” rig, and corresponding multiple daggerboard positions – something I did not want to deal with!</li>
<li>Pivoting centerboard, rather than a daggerboard. The design in the plans calls for a long daggerboard case to accommodate the two rig options, so the centerboard case doesn’t actually take up more room in the boat. While it isn’t in the plan set (or at least, wasn’t when I bought them), when I asked Tom about a centerboard he sent me CAD drawings he had made based on old sketches (for two different options), so I didn’t actually have to do any designing: his design, conveniently, had the same slot size in the hull.</li>
<li>An enclosed rear tank seat (technically, two rear tanks, with an open channel for the mizzen step to drain), enclosed bow tank, open rear side seats and mid-ship thwart, but no seats forward of the middle of the boat. Related to this—</li>
<li>Floorboards! Sitting on the floor of the boat seems nice for children and dogs, both of which I have – especially forward of the middle thwart, the hull starts to get steep, so sitting without thwarts requires floorboards. Also, that way you don’t have to sit in bilge water!</li>
<li>The mast partner is a slight deviation: I’m using the mast gate used by Iain Oughtred, as it allows the mast to be stepped by first placing the butt is the step and then lifting up the mast (the back of the mast partner is open). As a result of this change, I did deviate a bit in the bow, as I made the mast partner be part of one continuous king-plank, rather than one of the plywood options that are in the plans.</li>
<li>For the tiller, rather than the curved one that goes around the mizzen mast, I’m going to put in a Norwegian-style push-pull tiller. This seems easier, and should allow more room for seating further back in the boat.</li>
</ol>
<h2 id="materials">Materials</h2>
<ul>
<li>Plywood: 6 sheets 2500mm x 1225mm (8ft x 4ft “metric”) 6mm thick.</li>
<li>Solid wood: 16ft (should have 17ft!) for gunwales, in &amp; out. 6 strips 20mmx20mm. Quarter knees, breast hook, and king plank mahogany. 25mm x 25mm douglas fir for centercase support, and lots of 20mm x 20mm stringers (I had a disasterous attempt to use way to brittle douglas fir for gunwales, so had plenty of this stuff).</li>
<li>Epoxy (to be updated as I go along): 4.5G (not all used yet)</li>
<li>Fiberglass: XX 3&quot; tape, XX 2&quot; tape, XX 50&quot; yards</li>
</ul>
</body>
</html>
171 changes: 171 additions & 0 deletions _site/apple/building.html
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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" />
<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1">
<title>dbp.io :: Apple 16</title>
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/default.css" />
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="../css/syntax.css" />
</head>
<body>
<div id="navigation">
<a class="t b" href="https://dbp.io">Daniel Patterson</a>
<a class="t h" href="#">::</a>
<span class="t">
<a href="https://dbp.io">dbp.io</a>
</span>
<span class="t">
email: <a href="mailto:dbp@dbpmail.net">dbp@dbpmail.net</a>
</span>
<span class="t">
pubkey: <a href="../static/dbp.gpg">A98D4AF0</a>
</span>
<span class="t">
work: <a target="_blank" href="http://prl.ccs.neu.edu">prl.ccs.neu.edu</a>
</span>
</div>
<style>
#navigation {
display: none;
}

table {
width: auto;
}

</style>
<h1 id="apple-16-unofficial-website-building">Apple 16 – unofficial website – building</h1>
<ul class="menu">
<li>
<a href="../apple">About</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/boat.html">My Boat</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/comparison.html">Comparison</a>
</li>
<li class="cur">
<a href="../apple/building.html">Building</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/others.html">Other Builds</a>
</li>
</ul>
<h2 id="sections">Sections</h2>
<ul class="menu">
<li class="cur">
<a href="../apple/building.html">Overview</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/building/hull.html">Hull</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/building/gunwales.html">Gunwales</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/building/stem.html">Outer Stem</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/building/bowtank.html">Bow Tank</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="../apple/building/sterntank.html">Stern Tank</a>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Thus far, my build has taken the following approximate amounts of time for the various sections, described in the above sections. As I complete more parts of the boat, I’ll add more sections. The sections above took the following amounts of time.</p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Hull stitched and taped</td>
<td>62 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Gunwales &amp; Quarter Knees</td>
<td>27.75 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Outer Stem &amp; Front of Keel</td>
<td>12.75 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Bow Tank &amp; Mast Partner</td>
<td>27 hours</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Stern Tank &amp; Mizzen Step/Partner</td>
<td>33 hours</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 id="taking-care">Taking Care</h3>
<figure>
<img src="../static/apple/IMG_1682.jpeg" alt="I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place." /><figcaption>I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place.</figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="tools">Tools</h3>
<p>There are countless tools that you might use in a project like this, but a few that I don’t think are avoidable (i.e., if you don’t have access to, you should borrow / buy):</p>
<table>
<colgroup>
<col style="width: 27%" />
<col style="width: 72%" />
</colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Table Saw</td>
<td>For the gunwales and stringers, there really isn’t any other good option (cutting 20mm x 20mm in a 17ft piece is well beyond my ability with a circular saw). Perhaps a nice bandsaw could do it, but I’d be surprised if you had a band saw and not a table saw! Also, if you are going to do a birdsmouth hollow mast, while you can cut the birdsmouth with a router table (assuming you can get ahold of the strips without a table saw…), the table saw makes it really easy (assuming you are doing an 8 sided, 45 degree angle one).</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Curved rasp</td>
<td>For cutting the rake into the steps and mizzen partner, if nothing else, I don’t think any other tool really can work. It’s also useful in trimming things like the breasthook, quarter knees, hatch holes, etc. In theory, sand paper and a dowel could substitute but only if you are very patient.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Jig Saw</td>
<td>I did <em>not</em> use this to cut out panels (I think a small circular saw worked better, cutting more smooth curves), but for cutting out the bulkhead profiles, cutting out hatch holes, and any number of other places where cutting curves was necessary.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Keyhole Saw</td>
<td>For when you are cutting something out with the Jig Saw, but you end up in a place where the body of the Jig Saw prevents it from cutting further. Duckworks sells a <a href="https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/wood-157007-.htm">nice one</a>. Obviously, the smaller your Jig Saw and the further in advance you plan (i.e., the less things you are cutting once they are epoxied onto the boat), the less you will need this, but I’d be surprised if it never comes up!</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Carbide Scraper</td>
<td>If you can avoid the need for this, bravo; but for the rest of us, that miss epoxy drips, this, plus possibly a heat gun (not necessary but for the heavy duty drips, makes it easier), is really helpful.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Hand plane</td>
<td>A small block plane is all that’s needed, but it should be a good one. You might be able to get away without one (I built a previous boat using power sanders where planes were called for), but it’ll be a pain.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Random orbital sander</td>
<td>Not only is there so much sanding to do to clean up epoxy, but between coats of paint, etc.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Clamps. Lots!</td>
<td>You’ll need the most when doing the gunwales, where cheap spring clamps (the bigger 2&quot; ones) will mostly work, though once you are doing the last layer, they won’t quite fit, so having at least 15 or more regular clamps will be critical. If you were starting from scratch, 6&quot; or 8&quot; F clamps would probably be the most useful for the build.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><br /> And then, the tools that certainly aren’t irreplaceable, but that I use all the time.</p>
<table>
<colgroup>
<col style="width: 27%" />
<col style="width: 72%" />
</colgroup>
<tbody>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Shinto Rasp</td>
<td>Probably the most common thing I used this for was knocking off epoxy drips, by using it almost as a sander; at the right angle, it doesn’t scrape the wood at all. I also used the tip for cutting chamfers where the router couldn’t reach (holding the tip with one hand, the body with another, and running it along at the right angle). And then of course if you need to take off a lot of wood, it’s pretty effective, but can do some damage.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="even">
<td>Bandsaw</td>
<td>Unsurprising, given the place this typically holds in boat building shops. It’s totally unnecessary, as I think I resawed exactly one piece of wood for the boat, and thus all of the cuts that I made could have been made with either the table saw, jig saw, or hand saw, but at the same time, I used it more than all the rest of those combined. Given that nothing in the boat is square, being able to cut at arbitrary angles, into corners, quickly, (relatively) safely, is incredibly useful. I would often free cut and either it was in places where it didn’t matter (the joint would be filleted, so small gaps would disappear), or I would cut outside the line and fine tune it with a plane anyway.</td>
</tr>
<tr class="odd">
<td>Oscillating multi-tool</td>
<td>I mostly use this as a small power sander that can get into places that a normal 5&quot; random orbital can’t, but the surprising use was actually the flush cutting, which I’ve used exclusively to un-epoxy things that I accidentally glued together. Unlike using heat, this doesn’t harm any epoxy underneath (like when I didn’t anticipate epoxy running down the centerline and gluing a random panel that was laying on it, and I was able to cut it off without damaging the glass tape). A more careful craftsperson may never need this, but that I am not.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<h3 id="build-thread">Build Thread</h3>
<p>As I went along, I documented what I was doing and questions I had. It’s a lot less organized than this page, but in case you are curious: <a href="http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?259432-Campion-Apple-16-Build">Build Thread with Photos</a></p>
</body>
</html>

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