Update pubs, etc

_site/apple/boat.html

@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ <h2 id="my-boat">My Boat</h2>
 <p>While certainly many details on this site will be relevant to any variety of Apple 16, some may not, so it’s important to highlight the boat I’m building:</p>
 <ol type="1">
 <li>4 plank per side “Apple AHL” as it’s described in some of Tom’s pages, rather than the 5 plank “Swedish Apple” (or the gaff cutter – which doesn’t describe the hull, but rather what goes above!). The 5 plank Apple requires 6 sheets of ply for planks, rather than 4 sheets for the 4 plank Apple: given that the marine ply I’m using (Occume) is tropical hardwood, minimizing it is a no brainer (I’m sure I would use off-cuts in the 5 plank version). I was also just amazed by the way that Tom nested the planks into the sheets, and how that turned into such a beautiful 3D shape – often the planks would be less than an inch from each other in multiple places.</li>
-<li>Single rig, with a small mizzen. This is shown in the picture above. The plans account for a larger mizzen “light-air” rig, and corresponding multiple daggerboard positions – something I did not want to deal with!</li>
+<li>Single (large) rig, with a small mizzen. This is shown in the picture above. The plans account for a larger mizzen “light-air” rig, and corresponding multiple daggerboard positions – something I did not want to deal with!</li>
 <li>Pivoting centerboard, rather than a daggerboard. The design in the plans calls for a long daggerboard case to accommodate the two rig options, so the centerboard case doesn’t actually take up more room in the boat. While it isn’t in the plan set (or at least, wasn’t when I bought them), when I asked Tom about a centerboard he sent me CAD drawings he had made based on old sketches (for two different options), so I didn’t actually have to do any designing: his design, conveniently, had the same slot size in the hull.</li>
 <li>An enclosed rear tank seat (technically, two rear tanks, with an open channel for the mizzen step to drain), enclosed bow tank, open rear side seats and mid-ship thwart, but no seats forward of the middle of the boat. Related to this—</li>
 <li>Floorboards! Sitting on the floor of the boat seems nice for children and dogs, both of which I have – especially forward of the middle thwart, the hull starts to get steep, so sitting without thwarts requires floorboards. Also, that way you don’t have to sit in bilge water!</li>
@@ -66,9 +66,9 @@ <h2 id="my-boat">My Boat</h2>
 <h2 id="materials">Materials</h2>
 <ul>
 <li>Plywood: 6 sheets 2500mm x 1225mm (8ft x 4ft “metric”) 6mm thick.</li>
-<li>Solid wood: 16ft (should have 17ft!) for gunwales, in &amp; out. 6 strips 20mmx20mm. Quarter knees, breast hook, and king plank mahogany. 25mm x 25mm douglas fir for centercase support, and lots of 20mm x 20mm stringers (I had a disasterous attempt to use way to brittle douglas fir for gunwales, so had plenty of this stuff).</li>
-<li>Epoxy (to be updated as I go along): 4.5G (not all used yet)</li>
-<li>Fiberglass: XX 3&quot; tape, XX 2&quot; tape, XX 50&quot; yards</li>
+<li>Solid wood: 16ft (should have 17ft!) for gunwales, in &amp; out. 6 strips 20mmx20mm. Quarter knees, breast hook, and king plank mahogany. 25mm x 25mm douglas fir for centercase support, and lots of 20mm x 20mm stringers (I had a disasterous attempt to use way to brittle douglas fir for gunwales, so had plenty of this stuff), white oak for floors, ipe for floorboards.</li>
+<li>Epoxy (to be updated as I go along): 6G (not all used yet)</li>
+<li>Fiberglass: XX 3" tape, XX 2" tape, XX 50" yards</li>
 </ul>
     </body>
 </html>

_site/apple/building.html

@@ -100,7 +100,7 @@ <h2 id="sections">Sections</h2>
 </table>
 <h3 id="taking-care">Taking Care</h3>
 <figure>
-<img src="../static/apple/IMG_1682.jpeg" alt="I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place." /><figcaption>I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place.</figcaption>
+<img src="../static/apple/IMG_1682.jpeg" alt="I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place." /><figcaption aria-hidden="true">I built proper cradles for the boat way later than I should (after dropping the boat on the concrete floor). Probably, you should do a rough version for stitching the hull, and then once you flip back over (after taping the outside seams), you should build something like the following. If you prop the hull using sticks clamped to the gunwales, you can then put scraps of wood supporting the lower panels and mark on the saw horses where they should attach. Then lift the boat up (prop it on something), screw the pieces in, add some padding (carpet is probably better), and lower the boat back down. Then, adding support pieces up to the next panel is pretty easy to do in-place.</figcaption>
 </figure>
 <h3 id="tools">Tools</h3>
 <p>There are countless tools that you might use in a project like this, but a few that I don’t think are avoidable (i.e., if you don’t have access to, you should borrow / buy):</p>
@@ -140,7 +140,7 @@ <h3 id="tools">Tools</h3>
 </tr>
 <tr class="even">
 <td>Clamps. Lots!</td>
-<td>You’ll need the most when doing the gunwales, where cheap spring clamps (the bigger 2&quot; ones) will mostly work, though once you are doing the last layer, they won’t quite fit, so having at least 15 or more regular clamps will be critical. If you were starting from scratch, 6&quot; or 8&quot; F clamps would probably be the most useful for the build.</td>
+<td>You’ll need the most when doing the gunwales, where cheap spring clamps (the bigger 2" ones) will mostly work, though once you are doing the last layer, they won’t quite fit, so having at least 15 or more regular clamps will be critical. If you were starting from scratch, 6" or 8" F clamps would probably be the most useful for the build.</td>
 </tr>
 </tbody>
 </table>
@@ -161,7 +161,7 @@ <h3 id="tools">Tools</h3>
 </tr>
 <tr class="odd">
 <td>Oscillating multi-tool</td>
-<td>I mostly use this as a small power sander that can get into places that a normal 5&quot; random orbital can’t, but the surprising use was actually the flush cutting, which I’ve used exclusively to un-epoxy things that I accidentally glued together. Unlike using heat, this doesn’t harm any epoxy underneath (like when I didn’t anticipate epoxy running down the centerline and gluing a random panel that was laying on it, and I was able to cut it off without damaging the glass tape). A more careful craftsperson may never need this, but that I am not.</td>
+<td>I mostly use this as a small power sander that can get into places that a normal 5" random orbital can’t, but the surprising use was actually the flush cutting, which I’ve used exclusively to un-epoxy things that I accidentally glued together. Unlike using heat, this doesn’t harm any epoxy underneath (like when I didn’t anticipate epoxy running down the centerline and gluing a random panel that was laying on it, and I was able to cut it off without damaging the glass tape). A more careful craftsperson may never need this, but that I am not.</td>
 </tr>
 </tbody>
 </table>