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DWIN display Ender 3v2 #40
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E3 turbo dont have tx & rx pin? |
You send configuration files Maybe this will help. |
It will probably be better to disconnect the original Ender 3 V2 display and replace it with a BTT TFT display. |
for the original V2 display just use the original V2 cable and plug into EXP1 in configuration.h uncomment : #define DWIN_CREALITY_LCD and comment out any other displays and any reference to LCD as it is NOT an LCD (in this context). It is not pixel driven and cannot display any pixel data sent to it, unlike the 12864 which is an LCD and can display whatever text or graphics sent to it from the controller board. There is no serial connector on the DWIN display and it is not needed. These are not open source and cannot easily be updated with new features , the CPU on the controller board does all the lifting for these and some commands are sent to the display to tell it what icons to show etc which image to use for the menu and which image for the text. They work so differently it is pointless messing with serial, rewriting Marlin, and the firmware for the display, just to add a new menu item makes it not worth the effort. There will be a bunch of features you can't use with the stock V2 display. As suggested above, probably best to dump the DWIN display. Maybe get a Creality CR-10 12864 (cheap and was a massive upgrade over the DWIN display for me), uncomment : #define CR10_STOCKDISPLAY you get all the Marlin features enabled present and future without updating display firmware. OR maybe even something like the BTT TFT35 E3 V3 which has both he CR-10 mode and touch display mode. Uses the EXP1 AND serial connections for double the fun :-) Plus some other stuff like USB thumb drive support, extra serial ports and SUPER LOUD BUZZER/SPEAKER, really, I mean it,, dont take the sticker off the speaker unless you want to annoy the neighbours and make your super expensive HIFI look wimpy and lacking in watts. You only want the serial connection (marked TFT on the controller board) for sending gcode commands. The TFT35 is basically Octoprint, it has it's own 32 bit cpu and processes eveything into gcode when you click anything or print from the display sd/thumb drives. When you do anything in touch mode, the display board processes that into gcode to send over serial. it will need firmware updates for the touch mode display when new features are added to Marlin. When you go to Marlin menu mode the serial connection is dropped (optional but by default dropped) The Marlin menu (CR-10 mode) uses the EXP1 port to receive pixel data and send rotary knob data back to the controller board. Serial connection would be much too slow for this. CR-10 mode will work fine with any new features without requiring firmware updates as it only sends rotary knob data and receives pixel data. Again, it is an LCD so just like your LCD TV it can display anything Marlin sends to it, unlike DWIN and serial based touch displays. If your not intersted in touch screen and fancy icons, just want all the new features of any new Marlin firmware working without messing with the display then you want a 12864 display like the CR-10 12864 or other display that also has this mode like the BTT displays |
Hurrah, pls do check my message about limitations and the differnces and why you might want to dump that display(depending on your usage) |
also wondering why you chopped up the original cable,? it is long and needs all the connections for LCD usage or did you just use same colour wires and poked them into the original connector on the cable thus keeping it intact ? :-) |
does the original cable not work if you just plug it in? mine worked fine, I did read some boards had the connector wrong way round so you had to either cut a slot on the other side of the socket on the board or pull of the socket plastic housing from the board (carefully) turn it round and push it back onto the BTT board so you could plug the cable in the other way round. I did not have to do that though, hmm, just wondring why you got the loose wires when it should work fine with the original cable 'unmolested' :-) |
I have torewire the Original displaycable. I use jumper cable just for test. |
The original V2 cable will work fine, no need to rewire. |
if the original V2 cable does not work, then cut off the plastic part that stops you plugging it in the wrong way round, then plug it in the wrong way round. It will work then. I still use the original V2 DWIN cable on all display, original V2 DWIN, CR-10 and TFT35-E3-V3 and no need to plug the wrong way or rewire anyway, you have it working now, if you try the original cable it will work , no rewire.. Good luck. |
@tome9111991 what have you changed in your code? I am still running into errors while compiling. I am using Ender 3 V2. Uncommented #define DWIN_CREALITY_LCD and commented #define CR10_STOCKDISPLAY, #define LCD_BED_LEVELING in my configuration.h. Compiling for SKR E3 Turbo still fails. |
That is right. You have to use and add in
In Change |
@tome9111991: thank you! Building the .bin worked! One question regarding the serial ports. can I still use the USB port for my raspberry pi with Octoprint? |
I dont know #define SERIAL_PORT -1 |
@tome9111991 After flashing the .bin-file my display makes a a loud continuous tone. Must I do some adjustment on the pinning? |
You have to rewire your displaycable Display -> Board |
@tome9111991 thanks for your help!
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` |
Thank you! It works 👍🏼 |
Strange, I followed the documentation, which states if your using the original V2 display, plug it in using original cable. I made no changes to pins and cables wiring etc. it works just fine. Using the configuration from uncomment comment compile build and flash. not all BTT SKR-E3-Turbo the same I guess? |
@badbod becauce LCD_BED_LEVELING dont work with e DWIN_CREALITY_LCD |
I've tried basically everything, and can't get this to work for the love of my life. All I get is a black screen and beeping. |
In latest marlin bugfix build you dont need change. Only in pins_BTT_SKR_E3_TURBO
to
|
I've tried that as well, aka using the default cables. All the screen does is turn on and give a black screen while beeping like crazy. I've also tried re-flashing the screen and printer firmware several times |
Maybe my screen is just fucked? |
In latest marlin verson you dont need a change is already in. Only need: - - thats all an works well for me. |
My config is default, I haven't touched it. I know it has what it needs in the latest marlin version
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I used that last image, which was the issue |
Ok Im a little confused looking at the images as too what is the correct colours to the DWIN display if using the same colours from the original ribbon cable. Is this the wiring to the DWIN as follows ( I presume not as it is not working on mine) and looking at @tome9111991 1st image as reference. White | Yellow | Orange | Grey Black | Blue | Brown | Purple So far I get the backlight turn on but no display. Thanks every one. |
@SISLANGER Blue -> Orange Or you use jumper cable? |
@tome9111991 thank you will give it a go. |
@tome9111991 thank you I had a eureka moment. Basically the other imagery was causing me to over think it. So went back to basics this morning and with a clear mind worked first time. Thank you kindly for your help. |
Does anyone have the files loaded to download? I have the E3 Turbo and E3V2 screen but can’t for the life of me get it running |
you need to download the marlin source code and compile by your self. |
@Waldo0906 apart from the cable just setting the LCD to one of the DWIN options is the only part required for the display to work. I currently have it set as #define DWIN_CREALITY_LCD_ENHANCED in configuration.h |
@SISLANGER thats where I get rung up. I followed this thread and after it shows errors for the pins and several other options |
@Waldo0906 it sounds more like there's error elsewhere and not related to the display. |
@SISLANGER ill keep digging I don’t understand why it’s throwing these errors |
hey so can anyone send the config files with the "fixed" firmware? |
It gives me this error when I try to compile it `Processing LPC1769 (platform: https://github.com/p3p/pio-nxplpc-arduino-lpc176x/archive/0.1.3.zip; board: nxp_lpc1769; framework: arduino) Verbose mode can be enabled via Do I have to make other changes in platformio.ini? So far I only changed the enviroment to LPC1769 |
Since I'm in a bit of a hurry, would it be too much to ask just for the working bin file compatible with the DWIN display? |
You have to comment out the #error message in
If i have free time i can upload a basic working firmeware.bin But modified display cable still required Working firmware: |
I think I can handle modifying the display cable |
I don't think I've rewired the cable correctly. Has anyone gotten it working with dupont connectors? |
For some reason I found the above images and the text art confusing. I had to be patient to sort this out but here is, what I think, is a helpful couple pictures from when I did this. I disassembled the screen side connector and clipped the wires that were not being rearranged about 3mm, the ones that I was moving about 1mm (just enough to refresh the insulation) and then used to super thin screw driver to start them into the connection blades and then used the first piece of the connecter to press them back into their connections during reassembly. The orientation nub is hidden by the wires and under my index finger. PS. If you're also connecting a BLTouch ensure you have the wiring correct. I had them wrong and the screen would not work (flashing & blank) and the Octoprint Rpi disconnected from Wifi as soon as it booted. Fixing the BLTouch enabled them both to work. |
is based on:
EDIT:
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Could you show me the photos of the screen when using this board with original v2 LCD ? Which ui you’re using? |
what do you want to see? there is no difference to the stock board. I'm use EnhancedUI cirrently but the other UI's ist working too. |
Hi
Has anyone an idea how to get work the E3 turbo with Ender 3v2 dwin display?
EDIT:
yes the e3 turbo is working with Ender 3 v2 stock display.
But a special display cable is required.
Attention don't touch Black(Pin1) & White(Pin2) wire it is for 5V/GND can damage you board/display.
Working cable:
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Reference is this:
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Firmware config can be found here.
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A basic working precompiled firmware:
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