General Discussion #1
Comments
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One thing I'm a little confused about is how the 2N7000 is used to add the reticule on the screen. I looked pretty closely at your video to see how you had it setup but wasn't able to spot it. Is there any reason to use a transistor over say just a switch to switch the video between the resistor and one that let's the signal straight through? |
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First off just let me say this is absolutely brilliant work!! I've been struggling for years to find a good solution to this problem and you nailed it, home run, out of the park! Bravo! I was actually buying the parts to build a similar albeit less capable system when I stumbled across your work searching to see if anybody had done this for the millionth time, and what a pleasant surprise to see it! Seeing as how you have it done so well, is there anything we can do to contribute and make it better? I wondered about making a logic system for the wiimote so that it can track dots actually located at the corners of the tv so there is no need for calibration and the user can move around freely? I could try putting retro reflective stickers on the tv with an ir led light source so they wouldn't need power? I could work on sensor fusion with the wifi motion plus if you think that could be better with the help of the inertial system to increase accuracy? Your video looked pretty good already I have to say, maybe the wiimote has less noise than I expected. Btw, muramasatheninja, imho, I suspect the 2n7000 is just being used exactly like you said, as a really fast switch... in its saturation region, just pulling the signal low briefly. Please correct if I'm wrong though! Thanks again for the great work!! I'm anxious to get this running soon! |
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Hi, I would like to start this project but I am using NTSC system. Any design I need to change it before I start this project? Thanks. |
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Pretty sure 2n7000 is to remove saturation. muramasatheninja, probably you could spot it because is attached to the input and output |
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Hi everyone, First I've got to give a big apology. I never got a notification of this thread. I only spotted it because I'm currently working on a version 2 and wanted to look at my schematic. Thanks for the schematic muramasatheninja. I would add it but I don't want to produce any notifications at the moment as version 2 is quite close now (hopefully!). The 2N7000 to dim is really dodgy and something I want to improve for the second version. I should say I'm mainly a programmer and not that great at analogue electronics. It worked but I don't think it was correct. The idea was to have another resistor in series with the video signal and short circuit it with the FET. When the FET was off the signal would go through the resistor causing some voltage to be dropped and therefore the display to dim. And when on it should let the signal through with only a slight drop in the FET. However it's dodgy because the DC bias of a video signal is not set. It worked fine on the NES as it was about 3V. In more modern systems it tends to be 0V which means the signal is negative for half the time. When negative the current will flow through the diode in the FET and the gate to source voltage can go positive even when grounded. It seemed to work in this configuration but I wasn't very happy with it and the 2N7000 tended to die randomly and need replacing (too much current through the diode or static?). Also if the DC bias was high the resistor would cause the screen to dim more than if it was low. For version 2, I was planning on improving this by putting the signal through a capacitor so I can fix the DC bias and then to an op-amp. This way the DC levels and driving circuitry is a known quantity. From there I can use two 2N7000s to switch between that output and a variable voltage source. This way the cursor can be more visible and there can be a pot to change between a white and black cursor. In case people are interested, the other changes I was planning for V2, is replacing the Raspberry Pi and Arduino with an ESP32. It has bluetooth built in and I have it working with a Wiimote (it works a lot more reliably than with the Pi too as a bonus). The ESP32 is dual core so the other core can be used to do the precision timing needed to pick out parts of the frame (what the Arduino used to do). However the ESP32 also has a peripheral that should be able to do it without much CPU time so that's what I'm planning to use. Finally I'm going to use a 555 timer to use the dimming signal and the output from the comparator to flash the LED so the ESP32 don't need to listen to the white level like the Arduino did. Tested everything in stages, just need to go through and build it up. In all it should be a much neater product and have better tolerances than the old RPi/Arduino method. Thanks, |
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dlcboy: Zero calibration would be good. I'm wondered about adding four IR LEDs to the corner of the TV. Problem would come if the system could only see one LED and it wouldn't know what corner it was seeing. You could try and keep track of the points (last time I saw one around here it was the top left LED). Your idea of using the accelerometer could add some more data to this to make it more accurate. Or the micro could control the LEDs and flash them in sequence if unsure which it was looking at. It's something that's on my mind but will try and get V2 working first. It'd just be software from then on. ysfgary: Hi. NTSC would be cool. I think the only thing that'd need to change would be the timings and the line number calculations. It shouldn't need hardware changes. Might be worth waiting for V2 now though. Catwashere: Good spotting |
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Can't wait to see V2 and see if you convince me to buy an ESP32. Please this time put the schematic hahahaha. |
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Was looking at this about a week ago or so and now i hear about a version 2? I am SO subscribing to this! |
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Thanks for the update. Definitely looking forward to Version 2! |
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Another quick update for you all. Got the Version 2 working at the weekend on strip board. This is the new analogue board with the ESP32 handling Bluetooth (for Wiimote) and generating the video overlay. Video overlay stability is a lot better this time around. Next steps are to make a schematic (probably in KiCad) and layout a PCB so it can be sent off to be fabricated. Hopefully that shouldn't take too long.
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Awesome news! Can't wait :D |
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Me too |
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Another update for you. So, last week I finished off laying out the PCB and sent it off to the fabricators. Expecting the first batch of boards back in the next couple weeks. From there I just need to assemble them to ensure I didn't mess anything up and improve the software side of things ready for release. |
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Awesome work!! I'm so excited to see this moving along!!!! When it went quiet I had thought you might have moved on to something else. I tried and tried to get wii library support working on my pi and just failed, so I'm super excited to have something that's more robust and a bit more dedicated to this one task (which I will be using 100% of my free time of course;) are you making a handful of boards? Can I help in any way? I'd be happy to assemble or solder if you are doing it yourself. Also happy to help by donating enough beer to the cause to make it less painful too;) I can't wait to get one running to try out different sensor fusion schemes, and becon setups. I feel like it's pretty important for these old games to have dead on accuracy with minimum latency. Keep up the good work!! I can't wait to have duck hunt on my giant 2016 hdtv:D |
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Thanks. Yeah, didn't have much free time the past year or so due to work but hopefully will start doing some more home projects again. I'm sure I'll have messed up something on these first batch of boards but if not I'm happy to send any left over unpopulated ones out if anyone wants one. I've just had confirmation they should get delivered on Thursday. As for completed boards, if I decide to sell some the PCB fabricators should be able to do almost all the assembly for a pretty reasonable cost but thanks for the offer. Whatever I do or not though, everything you'll need to build one will still get added to github. |
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I'm in charcole, but I live in México. If you send me you paypal and cost I pay for the shipment. |
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This is fantastic! I would gladly purchase a board. |
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I said the boards should be here today so thought I should give another update. They actually turned up on Tuesday so I've already had time to populate one and check for mistakes. Surprisingly no major errors so they do work. I did make a mistake on the silkscreen (a resistor and capacitor label were switched). All the other problems were mechanical (screw holes too small, RCA jacks sit too high etc) but they don't matter if you aren't trying to fit it into the case I chose. There are a couple minor issues too. For some reason the vertical position of the detection point jitters by a couple lines which I can't remember happening on my strip board version (it's not too noticeable as there's shake from holding the gun but I want to know what it is). Also one time it booted up and the APB clock seemed to be running at half rate which meant the detection point became stretched. Again, it's not a deal breaker as it came back fine after a reboot but I'd like to know what's going on there too. As for sending boards out they are only 17 grams so should only be the cost of a letter so happy to pay postage to anywhere. Just to be clear these are just the bare PCBs with no components soldered on. You'll have to source the parts and solder everything, build the programming board (basically a couple switches and a USB to serial adapter) and set up the ESP32 tool chain. Also you might have to wait a while until I release the code and schematics as they are not quite ready yet. If you are still interested though then send me your address at cdcfoscam at yahoo.com and I'll pop them in the mail (I have 4 or 5 I probably won't use). Completed boards (just plug in and play) should be available at some point in the future if I can work out the economics of it.
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If you can think about possibly building the whole thing and make complete units ready to go, I'm sure people will buy them. You could sell them on websites that offer accessories for retro gaming ect. and since your the ONLY person doing this you can patent the product and be the only person out there that people can get these from making you rich! (Or maybe just more wealthy lol). My 2 friends and I are already interested in buying a completed module, that's 3 people that will buy it, and all of the people we know that will want one as well and so on... You should really think about manufacturing these and going all the way, there isn't anyone else doing this so you have an edge. I hope you think about it and really consider what I have said, being a business owner myself I can see the potential here! Thank you for your hard work on this project so far, now it's time to take it all the way! ;) |
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Thanks rEd2k. I'd certainly like to. Biggest stumbling block after reading up on the subject seems to be FCC regulations (and similar in other countries). Before selling an electronics product it needs to be tested for emissions and reading around it seems like you need to budget at least $10K (probably more like $20K) to get an intentional radiator through. The European regulations (which I'd have to adhere to) are less strict but selling something without doing the right testing could still be a huge fine or even a prison sentence. So starting small and selling a few doesn't seem like it's really an option from what I've read. I'm still investigating though. In the meantime I'm still working on the design, trying to make it as slick as possible. Currently working towards getting it to a state that a friend can beta test it. |
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Do want. |
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@charcole just sell as a kit, this is what edtracker did. you might get away with people only need to solder one component or lead. |
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Unfortunately kits are explicitly mentioned as still needing testing. My reading of it is selling the PCB would be fine but the PCB with any number of parts wouldn't. There's is an exemption for subassemblies which this could maybe fall into (and edtracker might) but I'd probably need to talk to someone who knows this area of law. Other than this, I've been working away improving the circuit and trying out some ideas some friends suggested (adding IR LEDs to work as sensor bar & Wiimote-only mode). I still need to bug fix some of the problems I found (and exist on a second board I assembled). Then I'll do another revision.
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Is there any possibility of adding HDMI capability? I think it would be great to support a standard that seems to have some future lasting power--newer TVs are starting to remove composite and component inputs. I'd love to be able to play these games on a high quality signal on my HDMI NES and the SNES, Playstation 1/2, and Dreamcast via RGB -> HDMI converters. |
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@kahhar even if you have an RGB or HDMI mod in your consoles if you don't disable default ports with the mod you can use this, the only feature you will be missing will be the "cheat" cross/circle on the display where you are pointing |
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@charcole Wiimote-only mode? What does that mean? IR Led sensor bar it will by a great add on and easy to create because in last revision you need to have a costume sensor bar, a battery sensor bar or a wii connected on. |
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@Catwashere It will still work, but it will still require a composite port (and won't look as nice). |
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@Catwashere Wiimote-only mode is playing light gun games without a light gun. In the picture I posted the device has a NES controller plug connected to it and it goes into the NES instead of the Zapper. Then you can play it totally with the Wiimote like a Wii game (A or B cause the trigger pull signal to be sent to the NES). It's just a little extra. I wondered if it might be an easier sell as it's slicker that way. Extra consoles could be supported with different leads (the 8-bit ones being especially easy). @kahhar Adding HDMI would be a big change and make the device a lot more expensive and difficult to build so I probably won't, sorry. As Catwashere said if you can get composite out as well as RGB (which goes to HDMI convertor or SCART or whatever) it'll still function. The composite signal would go to the device and the RGB off to the TV (the composite output from the device would be left unconnected). You'd lose the reticule that I add but it's mainly useful for calibration and playing Wii style. |
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I love this idea and can't wait to try it out once you get to the point you're happy with! just a quick question, would the wiimote-only mode be an option in addition to being able to play with a light gun or would it replace the use of the gun altogether? |
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As you might have noticed I've uploaded new Kicad files to a "version2" branch. It's not final (got plenty of ideas to make it better) but it matches the few boards I've sent out and the ones I've been testing with. (Nb. The R10/C3 silkscreen labels are correct in the uploaded file but were wrong on the boards I sent out so take care). @Snaid1 Yes, the wiimote-only mode is an option. You'll still be able to play with any light gun too, it'll just be two different leads. |
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Hey Guys! Sorry to bother everyone... I'm still interested in buying a extra universal cable or two. Along with any other cable types available. I haven't heard back from Charlie, but I know he's a very busy man and I know how life gets in the way of projects! Would anyone be interested in selling me theirs they are not using? Thanks! |
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You could probably easily make your own, its just getting the pin out and chopping up an old network cable and soldering a resistor and led to it. I could probably help you make one from scratch if you need. |
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Dekkit,
I wouldn’t mind learning on how to create one. Is it the same process for creating console specific cables?
Sincerely,
Robert Chacko
… On Oct 7, 2020, at 10:15 AM, dekkit ***@***.***> wrote:
You could probably easily make your own, its just getting the pin out and chopping up an old network cable and soldering a resistor and led to it. I could probably help you make one from scratch if you need.
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I still need to document all the cable designs. I've had a look through some old note pads but this is the only one I laid out in a way that'll make sense to anyone :)
(As for the people that asked recently on here I think I got them all the cables they requested. Or at least all the ones I still had spares of) |
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Hi charcole - these are really helpful. Im trying to build a psx cable to use on the lastest firmware. Are you able to draw a simple wiring diagram to build our own? Also what is the best way to apply the firmware update to use the psx cable? Nevermind found it! Updated -(23/11) found it in the code (this may not be 100% - but it worked for me)
It will turn the unit into a wifi hotspot: Once connected open a broswer on your smartphone or laptop and navigate to 192.168.4.1 You can then add a new firmware
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Also has anyone gotten this to work in universal mode for psx (guncon45)? Not sure what im missing. Using a 3rd party light gun. Led appears to be flashing correct. (This gun confirmed working fine on a Crt on psx and same game) |
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Would anyone be willing to sell their lightgunverter? preferably with universal cable? |
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You can always try and build one. Is anyone able to work out this mapping for psx for a custom plug? Heres whats in tbe source code...
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@dekkit I've tried to find the cable that I built but it seems to have got lost in the move. I kept all the "commercial" cables but as PSX wasn't one of them it's not with everything else. So I'll have to try and reconstruct it from memory. First off on the subject of firmware. The revised firmware only adds the GunCon 2 support. The PSX prototype cable I built I think works with the older "Serial" mode which you should be able to set up in the "Custom" cable settings. "IO Type" should be set to "Serial". I'm sure I wrote firmware update instructions somewhere but I can't find them right now. You seem to have worked it out anyway. As for wiring, I think the comment means you want to wire VCC on the microcontroller to pin 5 (Output pullup) on the RJ45 jack the RX on the microcontroller to pin 6 or 7 (Output A or B, should be the same). GND on the microcontroller will also have to to pin 8. That should be all the microcontroller/LightGunVerter connections. Then from microcontroller to PSX you'll need VCC to VCC, GND to GND, MOSI to CMD, MISO to DATA, 7 to ACK, SS to ATT, SCK to CLK. If you want it to work as a Konami gun support you'll also need pin 8 on the PSX controller to go to either pin 2 or 3 (photosensor, not sure if it's inverted or not, might have to try it and see) on the LightGunVerter. Possibly you'll need VCC going to pin 4 (photosensor pull up) also. I'll continue to look for the old prototype later this evening as I realise this is a lot :) As for working using the universal cable not sure what to suggest. Most things I instantly think of, GunCon/Konami gun differences and the composite pass through on GunCon would also be broken on a CRT. Maybe play with the white level in the settings? Might be flashing even when in the dark areas of the screen. I know detecting both white/black screens is needed to get through calibration on some PS2 games even if it doesn't actually effect the gameplay. @MrBob2 Hope you find someone. Unfortunately I don't have any of the production ones left to sell and I'm still not ready to make more I'm afraid. |
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Many thanks, ill keep playing around with it as things are starting to make more and more sense. If i get a chance ill start drawing schematics for cables based on your notes and create a new issue for each cable type (if you spot any obvious errors please call out) - this way people can make more themselves if they need to. If the pin outs for each can be derived from the c code, let me know and ill work from that. |
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Ok fixed my psx running in universal mode. Was due to not having the led centred properly in the light gun barrel and possibly not sealing it properly with bluetak to prevent light. Will now test the custom mode and see if i can get a psx cable working once parts arrive. |
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Instead of wiimote for tracking. Check this out. This is the best IR light gun system at the moment. Pair this with lightgunverter and it would be great. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=161189.0 |
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Sorry to ask here but I'm looking into ways to use a guncon or gcon2 on other systems. |
Its quite promising that project (its only for emulation) but it would be great to provide it as an option. That said, im going to tinker a bit and see if i can finally make a.psx adapter plug soon (which will cover quite a few psx / ps2 lightgun games). If im successful ill post the steps as a seperate issue. |
@charcole - where is the best place to tap 5v for the microcontroller for the arduino (or did you use a seperate power source?) . ive realised the nano needs 5v when the psx controllers typically have 3.3vcc. Thoughts |
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All ok, ended up using pin 3 from the psx controller (7.5v which the Arduino can take via the VIN pin).
I don't wire up VCC from the psx cable to nano v3.3 (it didn't seem to make any difference on a few tests anyway but charcole may have been referring to a different pin?) Overall the nano starts up , seems to receive communication from the Gunverter, however the PSX console doesn't register the nano as a psx controller (let alone a guncon controller) when using custom cable in serial mode. I've a;sp noticed the PSXGUN.ino doesn't compile when i set a constant in PSXGun.ino (#define GUNCON = 1). I've tried hacking around with it but no luck so far :( @charcole can you recommend a version of this file where you managed to just get guncon working (before merging the konami and guncon into one)... I'm so close with this. If you can kindly check over the wiring diagram and call out if anything obvious i'm not doing right. Dek |
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Good progress @dekkit. Sorry it's not working for you at the moment. I don't think I have any old versions of the PSXGun.ino sketch but I would think the fix would be to move the #endif that's above "Reply[2] = Buttons & 0xFF;" and move it to above "uint16_t GunX = ...". That should get it compiling for you and looks like how it was supposed to be. On my active cables I usually powered them from pin 1 on the RJ45. It's connected to the LGVs 5V but goes through a 100ohm resistor so you can't draw too current much without a voltage drop but was enough for the minicontrollers I used. Powering off the PSX motor line sounds completely fine as well though. You don't want to connect the PSX and Nano VCCs together so leave them disconnected (you don't want to power you PSX from your Nano). Your wiring diagram looks correct so not sure what to suggest other than debugging. You might want to hook up an LED (with resistor) on Nano's D2 and use the WriteLEDHigh function to see if you ever get into the interrupt (block of code that starts with ISR) or in the code that sets up the reply. Keep at it, you'll get it! On a related note I have started work on LightGunVerter again and have a new board soldered up that should be a good improvement over the older model. So watch this space. |
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Thanks! Keen to figure this out. Do you have a code reference / extract or further info as to what information is being sent via LGV 'serial' mode to nano's RX as this will greatly help interpret and refine the arduino side code (possibly allow other future active homebrew cables using the original firmware). Great to hear you're back! This unit has so much potential - the framework is incredibly versatile so well done. It would be great in future hardware revisions to add in 2x SPI style input lines (a generic socket or just solder pads) to allow for an alternative /custom aiming device that can override wii motes positioning in a menu option or jumper. It would make it great for modular updates while also having a default functionality for plug and play. |
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Ok think ive got it to register on the psx The output pull up (pin 5 on LGV cable) appears to need 5v not 3.3v from the nano. This seems to make it communicate fully with the nano. PSX seems to acknowledge it as a guncon45 but i need to test more fully and play with the settings to ensure its playable. Ill add build steps to guncon cable issue over the next few days. Testing results - psx point blank 3 game
Update: Added build steps here: |
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Guncon45 cable for playstation 1 - steps updated and now working really well (in case you want to make your own!) |
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Ok possible next set of projects im contemplating for this....thinking of an attempt at a Guncon2 adapter (via serial mode using an ardunino 'micro' ...as i understand these can made into USB HID devices - unless there is a better way or @charcole youd be ready to release your ps2 cable) and while there arent too many lightgun games for Dreamcast, it would cool to somehow get it to interface with the dreamcast's maple i/o interface modifying existing projects that use a STM32F103C8T6. A bit of a learning curve for both but hopefully not impossible. |
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Nice work dekkit! I'm really sorry for not replying earlier. I was super excited to see you had this working though. Hope you've been enjoying playing some PSX games! Guncon 2 would be a cool next step. The code that was programmed into the cables I sold is already in the repo at https://github.com/charcole/LCDZapper/tree/version4/Firmware/ActiveCables/GunCon2 if you want to take a look. It's pretty messy as it was quickly bodged together from a LUFA USB mouse example. It uses LUFA so can't be built in the Arduino IDE so might be a bit tricky to get working initially as there's a bunch of hoops to just through to get that set up. If you're willing to wait (and possibly do a little more work) then I also have versions for the EFM32 and the Raspberry Pi Pico family of microcontrollers that I've been working on (very intermittently) for the new LightGunVerter. I believe they should work I just haven't got around to testing it yet. These won't work exactly the same but should be fairly easy to modify so they are compatible with the old unit. I can share that code if you want it. Would just need to tidy it up first. Charlie |
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Hey guys! Just wanted to drop by and see if any new developments have been made :) expressing my continued interest in this project. This is still the only solution out there for every console, and a awesome one! |
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Hey, Thanks for the message. It's really nice to receive messages of support. I don't have a huge amount to report I'm afraid but there is somethings I can share. A few months back I had the new version working. I tested it out with the Sega Saturn (Virtua Cop) but most of the old cables would have worked too. Was really happy with how this went and the improved look of the overlay. I have to reimplement the UI which is a bit tedious but other than that it should replicate the old model's functionality. The new features were the ones causing me some issues. The idea is to build in USB too this time so PS2 (and possibly others) could work out of the box without having to build in extra smarts in the cables this time around. Player 1 USB was OK (although currently untested) but Player 2 USB caused me some headaches. To provide USB for Player 2 I needed to build in a secondary microcontroller. Initially I was using a low spec EFM32 to handle it but had lots of problems getting the chip to do anything at all. They are tricky for me to solder as a hobbyist (everything under the chip) so was never sure if that was the problem. Eventually I realised it was all down to the bootloader on the older revision of the chip (after finally finding stock of the new revision) but it wasted a lot of time on it. Although it got solved I decided I didn't want to use them anymore. They are now quite expensive (for what they are) and the RP2040 would now be cheaper and better. Due to the global chip shortage though I've been waiting on a bare RP2040 for months and months now which has really sapped my motivation for the project unfortunately. So unfortunately not a lot has been happening the last few months as I'm reluctant to design and order new PCBs if I can't be sure I can get the parts to build them. Sorry it isn't more exciting news. I really appreciate your message of support though. Thanks, |
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Putting out my message of encouragement out there as well--I've really
enjoyed the existing version, but would love for some HDMI support (like
for the HDMI NES mod/Analogue Nt mini/Analogue Super Nt/Analogue Mega
Sg/etc.) since we are getting so many HDMI mods/options lately.
Have you tried sourcing some samples of the RP2040 from eBay? I think
global supply chains are strained at the moment, but they will get better,
eventually.
…On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 11:08 AM charcole ***@***.***> wrote:
Hey,
Thanks for the message. It's really nice to receive messages of support. I
don't have a huge amount to report I'm afraid but there is somethings I can
share. A few months back I had the new version working. I tested it out
with the Sega Saturn (Virtua Cop) but most of the old cables would have
worked too. Was really happy with how this went and the improved look of
the overlay. I have to reimplement the UI which is a bit tedious but other
than that it should replicate the old model's functionality.
The new features were the ones causing me some issues. The idea is to
build in USB too this time so PS2 (and possibly others) could work out of
the box without having to build in extra smarts in the cables this time
around. Player 1 USB was OK (although currently untested) but Player 2 USB
caused me some headaches. To provide USB for Player 2 I needed to build in
a secondary microcontroller. Initially I was using a low spec EFM32 to
handle it but had lots of problems getting the chip to do anything at all.
They are tricky for me to solder as a hobbyist (everything under the chip)
so was never sure if that was the problem. Eventually I realised it was all
down to the bootloader on the older revision of the chip (after finally
finding stock of the new revision) but it wasted a lot of time on it.
Although it got solved I decided I didn't want to use them anymore. They
are now quite expensive (for what they are) and the RP2040 would now be
cheaper and better. Due to the global chip shortage though I've been
waiting on a bare RP2040 for months and months now which has really sapped
my motivation for the project unfortunately. So unfortunately not a lot has
been happening the last few months as I'm reluctant to design and order new
PCBs if I can't be sure I can get the parts to build them.
Sorry it isn't more exciting news. I really appreciate your message of
support though.
Thanks,
Charlie
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@charcole Hello! I'm about to purchase another scart cable for my sega saturn. Will sync on Luma work with the scart breakout supplied with the lightgunverter or do I need to get a Csync scart cable? I can send a image of my scart breakout if needed. Thanks for all you do! |
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@ultramecha Hey. I assume by sync on luma you mean sync on composite. SCART has red, green, blue and composite lines and composite is always used for sync. This should work fine, it's how LightGunVerter normally works when not using SCART. You shouldn't need to strip out the composite components (which I assume is what you mean by a csync SCART cable) as LightGunVerter has all the circuitry to do that already. |
@charcole thanks for quick reply! These are the two cable types I'm referring to if that helps: The 2nd cable uses luma to sync instead of composite, and apparently provides a better image. But I'm worried if I go with that one the LightGunVerter won't work with it. |
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Oh, I get you. So one does luma->composite for the sync and the other is TTL csync->composite with a resistor to knock the signal down. I would think they’d both work. For sync LightGunVerter is just watching for the lowest parts of the signal so shouldn’t matter what’s happening above the sync level. Luma is closer to composite which has had the most testing but I have tested it with csync too when I was trying with JAMMA boards. Only potential issue I can think of is that if the csync isn’t terminated properly (ie. plugged into a TV) the LightGunVerter might see 5V which I suspect will be out of spec for the op amp. I doubt it’d cause damage as it’ll have a cap and some resistors in the way to limit the power. This could be an issue with any sync signal as the LightGunVerter doesn’t terminate that signal itself, just taps it off. |
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@charcole Hey there 😊 Just wanted to check in and see if there's any new developments by chance. This still the only hdtv lightgun method that works with real consoles (that im aware of). Im still enjoying mine but curious if any newer versions are still in the pipeline by chance. Hope all is well! |
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Hi,
Very excited to see this project. I wasn't sure the best way to contact you so I figured I would post an issue here.
I started on converting your hand drawn schematic.
The goal is to make a self contained board that would fit in a small enclosure.
Thanks
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