lots o changes

_site/apple/boat.html

@@ -56,40 +56,82 @@ <h2 id="my-boat">
      My Boat
     </h2>
     <p>
-     While certainly many details on this site will be relevant to any variety of Apple 16, some may not, so it’s important to highlight the boat I’m building:
+     While certainly many details on this site will be relevant to any
+variety of Apple 16, some may not, so it’s important to highlight the
+boat I’m building:
     </p>
     <ol type="1">
      <li>
-      4 plank per side “Apple AHL” as it’s described in some of Tom’s pages, rather than the 5 plank “Swedish Apple” (or the gaff cutter – which doesn’t describe the hull, but rather what goes above!). The 5 plank Apple requires 6 sheets of ply for planks, rather than 4 sheets for the 4 plank Apple: given that the marine ply I’m using (Occume) is tropical hardwood, minimizing it is a no brainer (I’m sure I would use off-cuts in the 5 plank version). I was also just amazed by the way that Tom nested the planks into the sheets, and how that turned into such a beautiful 3D shape – often the planks would be less than an inch from each other in multiple places.
+      4 plank per side “Apple AHL” as it’s described in some of Tom’s
+pages, rather than the 5 plank “Swedish Apple” (or the gaff cutter –
+which doesn’t describe the hull, but rather what goes above!). The 5
+plank Apple requires 6 sheets of ply for planks, rather than 4 sheets
+for the 4 plank Apple: given that the marine ply I’m using (Occume) is
+tropical hardwood, minimizing it is a no brainer (I’m sure I would use
+off-cuts in the 5 plank version). I was also just amazed by the way that
+Tom nested the planks into the sheets, and how that turned into such a
+beautiful 3D shape – often the planks would be less than an inch from
+each other in multiple places.
      </li>
      <li>
-      Single (large) rig, with a small mizzen. This is shown in the picture above. The plans account for a larger mizzen “light-air” rig, and corresponding multiple daggerboard positions – something I did not want to deal with!
+      Single (large) rig, with a small mizzen. This is shown in the
+picture above. The plans account for a larger mizzen “light-air” rig,
+and corresponding multiple daggerboard positions – something I did not
+want to deal with!
      </li>
      <li>
-      Pivoting centerboard, rather than a daggerboard. The design in the plans calls for a long daggerboard case to accommodate the two rig options, so the centerboard case doesn’t actually take up more room in the boat. While it isn’t in the plan set (or at least, wasn’t when I bought them), when I asked Tom about a centerboard he sent me CAD drawings he had made based on old sketches (for two different options), so I didn’t actually have to do any designing: his design, conveniently, had the same slot size in the hull.
+      Pivoting centerboard, rather than a daggerboard. The design in the
+plans calls for a long daggerboard case to accommodate the two rig
+options, so the centerboard case doesn’t actually take up more room in
+the boat. While it isn’t in the plan set (or at least, wasn’t when I
+bought them), when I asked Tom about a centerboard he sent me CAD
+drawings he had made based on old sketches (for two different options),
+so I didn’t actually have to do any designing: his design, conveniently,
+had the same slot size in the hull.
      </li>
      <li>
-      An enclosed rear tank seat (technically, two rear tanks, with an open channel for the mizzen step to drain), enclosed bow tank, open rear side seats and mid-ship thwart, but no seats forward of the middle of the boat. Related to this—
+      An enclosed rear tank seat (technically, two rear tanks, with an
+open channel for the mizzen step to drain), enclosed bow tank, open rear
+side seats and mid-ship thwart, but no seats forward of the middle of
+the boat. Related to this—
      </li>
      <li>
-      Floorboards! Sitting on the floor of the boat seems nice for children and dogs, both of which I have – especially forward of the middle thwart, the hull starts to get steep, so sitting without thwarts requires floorboards. Also, that way you don’t have to sit in bilge water!
+      Floorboards! Sitting on the floor of the boat seems nice for
+children and dogs, both of which I have – especially forward of the
+middle thwart, the hull starts to get steep, so sitting without thwarts
+requires floorboards. Also, that way you don’t have to sit in bilge
+water!
      </li>
      <li>
-      The mast partner is a slight deviation: I’m using the mast gate used by Iain Oughtred, as it allows the mast to be stepped by first placing the butt is the step and then lifting up the mast (the back of the mast partner is open). As a result of this change, I did deviate a bit in the bow, as I made the mast partner be part of one continuous king-plank, rather than one of the plywood options that are in the plans.
+      The mast partner is a slight deviation: I’m using the mast gate used
+by Iain Oughtred, as it allows the mast to be stepped by first placing
+the butt is the step and then lifting up the mast (the back of the mast
+partner is open). As a result of this change, I did deviate a bit in the
+bow, as I made the mast partner be part of one continuous king-plank,
+rather than one of the plywood options that are in the plans.
      </li>
      <li>
-      For the tiller, rather than the curved one that goes around the mizzen mast, I’m going to put in a Norwegian-style push-pull tiller. This seems easier, and should allow more room for seating further back in the boat.
+      For the tiller, rather than the curved one that goes around the
+mizzen mast, I’m going to put in a Norwegian-style push-pull tiller.
+This seems easier, and should allow more room for seating further back
+in the boat.
      </li>
     </ol>
     <h2 id="materials">
      Materials
     </h2>
     <ul>
      <li>
-      Plywood: 6 sheets 2500mm x 1225mm (8ft x 4ft “metric”) 6mm thick.
+      Plywood: 6 sheets 2500mm x 1225mm (8ft x 4ft “metric”) 6mm
+thick.
      </li>
      <li>
-      Solid wood: 16ft (should have 17ft!) for gunwales, in &amp; out. 6 strips 20mmx20mm. Quarter knees, breast hook, and king plank mahogany. 25mm x 25mm douglas fir for centercase support, and lots of 20mm x 20mm stringers (I had a disasterous attempt to use way to brittle douglas fir for gunwales, so had plenty of this stuff), white oak for floors, ipe for floorboards.
+      Solid wood: 16ft (should have 17ft!) for gunwales, in &amp; out. 6
+strips 20mmx20mm. Quarter knees, breast hook, and king plank mahogany.
+25mm x 25mm douglas fir for centercase support, and lots of 20mm x 20mm
+stringers (I had a disasterous attempt to use way to brittle douglas fir
+for gunwales, so had plenty of this stuff), white oak for floors, ipe
+for floorboards.
      </li>
      <li>
       Epoxy (to be updated as I go along): 6G (not all used yet)