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[fix] Jane documentation fixes #6747

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May 14, 2024
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4 changes: 2 additions & 2 deletions designs/jane/i18n/en.json
Original file line number Diff line number Diff line change
Expand Up @@ -33,12 +33,12 @@
"d": "Controls the size of the gusset"
},
"bicepsEase": {
"t": "Bicep Ease",
"t": "Biceps Ease",
"d": "Controls the ease in the sleeve"
},
"sleeveLength": {
"t": "Sleeve Length",
"d": "Controls the length of the sleeve"
"d": "Controls the additional length added to the sleeve"
}
}
}
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/cutting/en.md
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@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
---
title: "Jane 1970's Shift: Cutting Instructions"
title: "Jane 1790's Shift: Cutting Instructions"
---

The best way to get a truly straight line for all the straight seams in Jane is to pull a thread. This is done by snipping into the fabric at the right measurement and then carefully pulling on the single thread that the cut exposes. Once pulled all the way out of the fabric it creates a void that is easily followed to cut a straight line.
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2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/fabric/en.md
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@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
---
title: "Jane 1970's Shift: Fabric Options"
title: "Jane 1790's Shift: Fabric Options"
---

## Historically Accurate Fabrics
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48 changes: 24 additions & 24 deletions markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/instructions/en.md
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@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
---
title: "Jane 1970's Shift: Sewing Instructions"
title: "Jane 1790's Shift: Sewing Instructions"
---

You can sew your Jane entirely by machine, or by hand. But it is also possible to mix and match techniques to your liking. It is common practice for modern makers of historical clothing to sew the seams by machine but finish them by hand.
Expand All @@ -25,40 +25,40 @@ It is important to line the weave up of the two pieces when pinning together. Yo

## Step 1: Hem the neckline

Hem the neckline with the smallest hem you can manage.
- Hem the neckline with the smallest hem you can manage.

## Step 2: Prep the Sleeves

Fold the sleeve in half from the shoulder to the hem.
Sew the sleeve together to create a tube, making sure to leave the width of the sleeve gusset open at the top.
Finish the seam.
Sew one of the sleeve gusset edges to one side of the gap left in the seam you've just sewn.
Take the edge of the sleeve gusset that is adjacent to the one you've just sewn and sew it to the gap on the other side of the sleeve. You should now be looking at a diamond with the top two edges connected to the sleeve and the bottom two edges free.
Finish the seams.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Hem the bottom of the sleeves.
- Fold the sleeve in half from the shoulder to the hem.
- Sew the sleeve together to create a tube, making sure to leave the width of the sleeve gusset open at the top.
- Finish the seam.
- Sew one of the sleeve gusset edges to one side of the gap left in the seam you've just sewn.
- Take the edge of the sleeve gusset that is adjacent to the one you've just sewn and sew it to the gap on the other side of the sleeve. You should now be looking at a diamond with the top two edges connected to the sleeve and the bottom two edges free.
- Finish the seams.
- Repeat for the second sleeve.
- Hem the bottom of the sleeves.

## Step 3: Prep the side gores

Sew the two side gores together along the longest straight edges to create a kite.
Finish the seam.
Repeat for other set of side gores.
- Sew the two side gores together along the longest straight edges to create a kite.
- Finish the seam.
- Repeat for other set of side gores.

## Step 4: Prep the Body
Mark down from the shoulder, along the side seam, half the total width of the sleeve + the sleeve gusset width.
Sew the front of the body to the back of the body from the mark, down to the corner where the body runs parallel to the grain.
Repeat for the 3 remaining side seams.
- Mark down from the shoulder, along the side seam, half the total width of the sleeve + the sleeve gusset width.
- Sew the front of the body to the back of the body from the mark, down to the corner where the body runs parallel to the grain.
- Repeat for the 3 remaining side seams.

## Step 5: Set in the side gores

Sew the side gore to the front and then to back along the edges that were left free from the corner to bottom of the body.
Finish the seams.
Repeat for other side gore.
- Sew the side gore to the front and then to back along the edges that were left free from the corner to bottom of the body.
- Finish the seams.
- Repeat for other side gore.

## Step 6: Set in the sleeves
Sew the sleeve to the body matching the notch to the shoulder. The sleeve should fit in the gap that has been left in the side seam. Make sure to not sew the sleeve shut when attaching.
Finish the seam.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
- Sew the sleeve to the body matching the notch to the shoulder. The sleeve should fit in the gap that has been left in the side seam. Make sure to not sew the sleeve shut when attaching.
- Finish the seam.
- Repeat for the other sleeve.

<Note>

Expand All @@ -68,7 +68,7 @@ You may find it easier to turn the body *wrong sides* out for this. It will depe

## Step 7: Hemming

Hem the bottom of your shift.
- Hem the bottom of your shift.

## Step 8: Enjoy!
Now go forth and wear it as a historical undergarment or however you like!
- Now go forth and wear it as a historical undergarment or however you like!
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/measurements/en.md
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@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
---
title: "Jane 1970's Shift: Required Measurements"
title: "Jane 1790's Shift: Required Measurements"
---

<DesignMeasurements design='jane' />
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/needs/en.md
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@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
---
title: "Jane 1970's Shift: What you need"
title: "Jane 1790's Shift: What you need"
---

To determine how much fabric you need for Jane you take:
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5 changes: 5 additions & 0 deletions markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/notes/en.md
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@@ -0,0 +1,5 @@
---
title: "Jane 1790's Shift: Designer Notes"
---

I made Jane because shifts are a very fundamental part of historical sewing but its hard to make or find a pattern that works for you. A lot of blogs have instructions for drafting, but drafting can be overwhelming. Freesewing allowed me to code a pattern that is sized to your body without you having to do all the work of drafting. The shift Jane is based on is one I made following [Sharon Ann Burnstons instructions](http://sharonburnston.com/). Her work got me interested in shifts and the details and minutia of making one that does what you want it to do. I wanted to make Jane to give people a great place to start their historical sewing journey, a pattern that is easy to use and lets you move on to the exciting things if you feel that way or play around in the world of squarecut garments like I have. -Zee
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/bicepsease/en.md
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Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Biceps Ease
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls the amount of ease in the sleeve circumference. The default is for the historically accurate version of a regency sleeve, which is fairly tight to the arm.
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/bodyease/en.md
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Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Body Ease
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
The Body Ease option controls how wide the shift is on your body. The default is for a shift that is fairly tight but you can still easily move in.
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/gussetsize/en.md
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Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Gusset Size
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls the size of the gusset, a larger gusset will give you more freedom of movement and gives a little extra width in the sleeve at the top of the bicep.
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/neckdepthback/en.md
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Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Neckline Depth Back
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls how deep the back neckline is. A historical shift would be low enough to be below the neckline of the dress it goes under.
Original file line number Diff line number Diff line change
Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Neckline Depth Front
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls how deep the front neckline is. A historical shift would have a neckline that comes to the top of the stays.
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/neckwidth/en.md
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Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Neckline Width
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls how wide the neckline is. On a historical shift this would be wide enough to not peek out of the dress neckline.
2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/shiftlength/en.md
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Expand Up @@ -2,4 +2,4 @@
title: Shift Length
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls the overall length of the shift. Historical shifts have different lengths, anywhere between knee and calf would be appropriate.
3 changes: 1 addition & 2 deletions markdown/org/docs/designs/jane/options/sleevelength/en.md
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@@ -1,5 +1,4 @@
---
title: Sleeve Length
---

<Fixme>This option is not yet documented</Fixme>
This option controls the extra length added to the sleeve. If you want a length appropriate for 1790's then you don't use this option.