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Lasercut top/bottom panels for DIY monome norns instruments.
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v1-screen-cutout
README.md
norns-clear-top.png
norns-diy-panels.dxf
norns-exploded-diagram v2.pdf
norns-panels-clear.jpg
norns-panels-complete.jpg
norns-panels-diag.png
norns-shield-clear-top-drawing.pdf

README.md

Norns DIY: top/bottom panels

Plans and DXF files for panels to lasercut for your DIY monome norns

Contents

v1-screen-cutout contains a previous version, with a cutout for the screen. It's kinda fine, and looks like this:

If you prefer that, follow the instructions in that folder.

Otherwise:

norns-diy-panels.dxf is what you want. It contains:

  • baseplate
  • solid top with encoder cutouts suitable for skirted Sifam/Selco knobs (cutout about 14.5mm in diameter)
  • four 'spacers'

Usage

Cut the baseplate, spacers, and top-panel of your choosing from 3mm acrylic. You should cut the top from clear acrylic. Smoked acrylics do work ok-ish, but you may not like the amount of light they let through. In the end, I went with clear.

If you wish to cut specific diameters for your button caps / knobs, double check what you'd like those to be; these cutouts very much Work For Me.

When you cut your panels, double-check that the width of the top or baseplate is 88.106mm. If it is not, some scaling nonsense has happened somewhere. I always check the size in my lasercutter software matches the size in the CAD tool I require.

(Similarly, the spacers should be 5mm in diameter.)

Assemble with M2.5 hardware. The exploded diagram PDF shows how they will go together. You will need, hardware-wise:

  • 2x 20mm M2.5 f-f standoff
  • 2x 16mm M2.5 f-f standoff
  • 4x 12mm M-F standoff (depicted as F-F in diagram)
  • 2x M2.5 nut
  • 2x M2.5x6mm screws
  • 4x M2.5x10mm screws (8mm also works in a pinch)

To assemble, from top-to-bottom:

  • take the top panel. 4x 6mm screws go through it from the top, into 4x 12mm F-M standoffs.
  • Male end of standoffs goes through norns shield (with screen already attached)
  • 16mm standoffs attach to rearmost male protrustions of 10mm standoffs. (These are shown at an incorrect position on the diagram; they should be above the Pi board. You will work it out)
  • 20mm standoffs attach to frontmost male protrusions of 10mm standoffs
  • Attach the Raspberry Pi.
  • Now see how much spacing you need between the Pi and the baseplate. you ideally will use the 3mm spacers under the four holes in the Pi and the plate; if 3mm is too thick, use spare M2.5 nuts.
  • Flip the norns over. Place the spacers, if necessary, over the four holes on the Pi board. Carefully align the baseplate with them. Screw in the 8mm/10mm screws into the two holes going into standoffs.
  • Place a screw through each of the remaining holes on the Pi, and use a nut to secure it.
  • Finally, place two 6mm screws through the baseplate into the long 20mm headers.
  • Add rubber feet to the base to taste.
  • Attach encoder knobs and buttons. If using skirted knobs, the skirts should fit within the cutouts, but check for your brand of knob

I managed to assemble all the spacers I required from this kit of Raspberry Pi spacers. I recommend cutting the panels and working out what you will need before ordering it.

This design does not support the screen. I should probably do that. My screen had M2 hardware in the corners. Even a simple M-F standoff would help support it a bit.

Licence

This design is issued under a "works for me". Licence. You may find these instructions, diagrams, and panels are not of assistance, or do not work for you. Sorry. Suggest improvements. No support is supplied or should be expected, though it may still be forthcoming.

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