This is a 44 key 3D keyboard made by laser cut acrylic, designed by @kobakos32(twitter), u/kobakos32(reddit)
I assume that most people who read this has basic knowledge on building keyboards, like key matrix and firmwares, so I will just write about something that is specific to this keyboard.
This keyboard is really tall, so a wrist rest is recommended to type properly.(You can make this lower by cutting off the 2nd pinky column and the bottom thumb key).
In this guide, I will call the red colored part 'plate section', and the gray part 'bottom section'.
(This image is an old version, but it's basically the same)
- keyswitches: 44
- keycaps(only DSA profile): 44
- diodes: 44
- random wire(I used a junk LAN cable): appropriate amount
- pro micro: 2
- panel mount trs/trrs jack which is capable of 3mm thick panel (like pj392a): 2
- solvents to stick the acrylics: appropriate amount
- masking tape: proper amount
- brush or syringe
- rubber feet: some
In the LaserCutPaths folder, there is a dxf file of where the lasercutter should cut. This data was made to fit into an A4 size sheet(297mm* 210mm), but this is only for one side so order two of this or tile this to A3 size to get the whole case. Follow the format of where you order your acrylics to. If you want this to be in a different format, you can modify this file using graphic softwares such as inkscape.
In the 3DModels folder, I put two files; .step one and the one compatible with fusion360. If you want to modify this keyboard, using 3d cad would be an easy way to do it. When I change something of this keyboard, I usually edit the 3d model first, then apply the changings to the dxf file, by projecting the changed part to sketch and exporting it in dxf format (when using fusion360).
Please use an 3mm thick sheet for this keyboard.
The first step is to temporary assemble the case before glueing the acrylics together. You have to do this before glueing the case because even a minor error that was made during the glueing process can add up to a major error, which will make the plate section unable to fit the bottom section.
First assemble the bottom section, using these images as a reference. The rectangler shaped acrylic with slits(which is omitted in the image) is for mounting the pro micro so it is not necessary for you to assemble it here.
(If you want to take a closer look at these images, look at the original images in the readme_image folder in this repository.)
Don't place the switches at this point.
Then, assemble the plate section, using these images as a reference and insert it to the bottom section. You can use masking tapes to keep the parts in position. This makes the later glueing process easier.
The plate section will be inserted to the bottom section like this.
(This image is an old version, but it's basically the same)
After temporary assmebling the case, glue only the plate section because you wil have to solder the switches, and the thumb cluster will be caught by the bottom section when you insert it if you also glue the bottom section(Because of my bad design...). Put solvent such as dichloromethane in a syringe or brush, and pour the solvent onto the acrylic bonding surface. Apply pressure(not too strong) to the bonding surface, and wait for tens of seconds to glue the acrylics. This is pretty hard to do it so also check some tutorials on how to bond acrylics with solvents. You'll need to wait for a day for the acrylics to stick completely, but you can move on to the next step.
Dicloromethane is not an safe material, so be careful when handling it.
When handling dichloromethane, use the following safety precautions:
- Wear protective clothing. Footwear should cover the entire foot.
- Always wear PPE such as chemical splash goggles and safety gloves.
- Work in a well-ventilated area (preferably in an environment with a fume extraction system).
source:MSDSonline
I recommend you to at least put on gloves and ventilate the working area.
Place the switches to the plate section. Glue the switches to the plate, or otherwise you'll break the solder joints when you try to change the keycaps. After that, it's time to wire things up. Wiring are the same as other keyboards. Refer to hand wiring guide and split keyboard guide from qmk. Make sure that the wiring will not interfere with the case when it is assembled. Also, don't wire any rows or cols to the D0 port(PD0) if you are going to use the default settings of QMK's split keyboard.
The original version mounted the pro micro with a pcb called ProMicroSocket and standoffs, but since it is hard to get it in countries other than Japan, this version uses a small piece of acrylic to mount the pro micro, as mentioned before. The pro micro will be glued onto the acrylic part like the below image.
The trs jack will be mounted here.
Check if the keyboard works properly since you won't be able to access some of the part of this keyboard once you glue the whole case. Check if...
- each key is responsive.
- there is any soldering defect.
- the communication between the left side and the right side is working properly.
If it seems like there are no errors, insert the plate section to the bottom section and glue the rest of the case, including pro micro. Put some rubber feet to the bottom plate to stop this from sliding and you're done!