Open-frame case design for the Open Frame1 board
The goal of this project is to create a "bare miniumum" case design for the OF1 board, allowing aspiring makers to construct quality digital controllers as cheaply and simply as possible.
The controller is built as three layers (bottom panel, OF1 board, top panel) separated by standoffs leaving the sides open, hence the "open frame" in the title. There are two versions of the OFOF1 case, as shown below. The first one (labeled OFOF1 in the files) uses a top panel with circular cutouts for 3D printed MX switch button housings. The second version (OFOF1_alt) uses a top panel with square cutouts that fit the MX switches directly.
Please refer to the Open Frame1 repository for information about the board
https://github.com/GregTurbo/Open-Frame1
There are many ways to fabricate the top and bottom panels. The method I am using is ordering them as aluminum PCBs from JLCPCB. This is cheap, strong, and allows for logos or other designs to be built into the panel.
However, JLCPCB has a minimum order quantity of 5, so this is not the most economical for a one-off build.
Another good method would be to order the panels through a laser-cutting service like SendCutSend (for those in the USA/Canada). 3mm acrylic or MDF or 1.6mm aluminum would both be suitable materials, and wouldn't be very expensive to get manufactured. The panels can also be cut by hand from MDF or plywood or whatever. Just know that you may need longer screws if you use a material thicker than 3mm.
Important note: assuming you have long enough screws, the bottom panel can be as thick as you'd like. The top panel however should be 3mm or less in thickness to allow the screw-together button housings to fit properly. For the OFOF1_alt, the top panel should be 1.5-1.6mm thick to allow the switches to clip into place.
The files for the bottom panel, top panel, and alternate top panel are provided in DXF format (2D CAD), STEP format (3D CAD), and as Gerber PCB fabrication files.
Also included is a DXF file for a cover plate for the alt version. This is optional but can be laser cut from clear acrylic to recess the switches somewhat and also allow for custom art, sandwiched between the top panel and cover plate. If you go this route you will need longer screws than the ones listed below for the alt version
Outer dimensions of the panels are 14.5"x7".
The standoffs that hold the layers at the proper spacing are designed to be 3D printed. They can be printed at home or ordered using an online 3D printing service such as the one offered by JLCPCB. If ordering from JLC, it is fine to use the cheapest option for resin (9000R), and make sure to use the versions of the files with x8 or x10 in the filename.
A complete build requires 4 corner standoffs, 5 bottom standoffs, and 5 top standoffs. Note that there are two different versions of the corner and top standoffs: The ones labeled "tall" are for the regular OFOF1 build with an aluminum top panel. The ones labeled "short" are for the OFOF1_alt build. If using a 3mm top panel (acrylic, wood, etc.) the standoffs will need to be filed down approx. 1 mm to fit properly.
Files for these are provided in STL format, both as individual parts for at-home printing and panelized parts for ordering.
If you do not like the open-frame look of the controller, there are 3D printable files for three configurations (regular, regular with acrylic/3mm thick top panel, and alt) that provide solid sidewalls. These replace the standoffs described above.
The STL files for at-home printing contain several parts, so open in your slicer program of choice to separate. If arranged as shown it is possible to print all parts at the same time on an Ender3-sized print bed.
Also included are files for sidewalls that can be printed in one piece in resin by JLC.
Note: if using an aluminum bottom panel it may be preferable to cover the underside in non-conductive material (painter's tape, paint, full-sheet sticker paper, etc) to prevent accidental shorting across hotswap sockets on particularly agressive keystrokes that may bend the PCB.
The OF1 board and OFOF1 case work with any MX-style mechanical switch. The OFOF1 uses the screw-together button housings shown below.
To assemble, the switch is placed into the bottom half of the housing, and the top half is screwed into the bottom half through the hole in the top panel. The keycap is then pressed onto the switch stem. As with the standoffs, these can be printed at home or ordered from JLC. Please note that if you use a top panel thinner than 3mm, you will need an o-ring around the top housing, under the panel (see Hardware section).
A panelized file is available that includes parts for 3 complete buttons (top half, bottom half, and keycap). The black resin or LEDO6060 resin from JLC are the recommended materials for these parts. For a full set, 7 copies of the file need to be ordered. The files of the individual parts are also available
Note: these housings are compatible with official Frame1 keycaps or any circular keycap that is 20.64mm or less in diameter.
For more information on 3D printing keycaps, check out: https://github.com/rana-sylvatica/circle-keycaps
The OFOF1_alt does not use these button housings, so any keycaps will work for that. Circular, square, etc are all fine.
Here's what is needed to assemble a full controller:
x9 16mm Flanged Button Head Screw https://www.mcmaster.com/90909A724/
x9 Narrow Base Weld Nut https://www.mcmaster.com/90594A320/
x20 O-ring (not needed if using a 3mm thick acrylic/MDF top panel) https://www.mcmaster.com/9452K75/
x9 10mm Flanged Button Head Screw https://www.mcmaster.com/90909A722/
x9 Narrow Base Weld Nut https://www.mcmaster.com/90594A320/
If you wan to know more or discuss these designs, DM on discord at bjartskular1#6913 or join my server at https://discord.gg/9wBaMWgJkv