Filament Storage System
Version: 1.05 Updated: 10/16/2019
NOTE: There are two versions of the UltraLatch kit. If your latch assembly has a BLACK key be sure to print the one that says "BLACK." Same goes for the "SILVER" version. Both operate the same but one has a cover on the key and the other doesn't. You may either print in place as a complete set or do the TOP and BASE pieces separately. Both versions use the same BASE.
This is designed to be a print-in-place model and depending on the version of the RepBox you have you may or may not want to separate the top handle from the base. For non-seal kit owners the handle may remain fixed as one piece. If you have the seal kit break the tiny tabs between the top and the bottom of the latch by twisting the handles in opposite directions. At any point if you accidentally separate the handles you may place a 16mm screw in at the base to re-affix the two parts into one solid handle. Print 3 shells 3 bottom 5 top layers and at least 20% infill. PLA, PETG, OR ABS may all be used.
If you'd rather print the handle pieces separately they are broken out into the folder called "Optional Separate Handle Set Components."
The mega bracket is designed to print with the triangle standing up on the Z axis and the face of the hypotenuse laying on the print bed. Rotate the part so that the wider side is running along the x-axis. This will allow cooling to create the best overhangs and minimize the effects of filament sag on the most critical parts of the bracket. DIMENSIONAL ACCURACY OF YOUR PRINTER IS PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT ON THIS PART! If you have not properly calibrated your printer using a calibration cube or other similar diagnostic print this is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. At the very least you need to make sure your filament is properly calibrated to your e-Steps on your extruder and that your extrusion multiplier is correct also. Please take a look at this excellent article from the Prusa website on the topic:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/d9j1xdg7vj-extrusion-multiplier-calibration
The quality standard you are looking for is the ability to press the square nuts into each of the holes by hand but not have them so loose that they fall out if you turn it upside down. In addition the screws should be able to press through the holes without threading into the plastic but not be so loose that they wiggle around too much. Its better for the holes to be slightly loose over too tight. Be mindful of your first layer calibration too. If you elephant foot the print you'll have a harder time pressing in the vertical square nut for the corners.
We recommend printing the megabracket with 3 shells, 3 tops and bottoms and at least 50% infill. PLA is generally sufficient but if you have the option consider printing in PETG or ABS for better durability.
Note: This part is only really necessary if you don't have a 3mm hex wrench or needle-nose pliers to assist in tightening the nylocks.
Be mindful of your first layer on this print. Elephant footing due to too flat of a first layer height may prevent the nut holder from fitting around nuts properly. If you find the fit to be too tight consider heating up the part slightly with a hairdryer or heat gun and then pressing over an M3 nut thats already been threaded onto a screw so you can remove it after pressing on.
If you want a better fit for the center bracket that attaches the top panel to the rear panel this spacer will hold the screw in position better.
NOTE: There are now two versions of the latch plate to control how tightly the lid seals. Some kits use a 3/16th inch thick acrylic lid while others use a 1/8th inch thick. They both perform the same. We recommend starting with the latch plate that corresponds to your lid thickness but if you feel like you need a more snug fit you may try the other version of the latch plate.
We recommend printing at a layer height of 0.1 - 0.15 with 3 shells, 5 tops and 5 bottoms and at least 50% infill. PETG is recommended for better abrasion resistance on the latch plate. This part requires a finer layer height to create a more gradual ramp for the latch to tighten the lid on the seals properly.
NOTE: Kit now includes a single steel lid prop for more reliable operation. If you prefer the aesthetic you may still 3D print them if you prefer, however we recommend using two if you do to properly support the weight of the lid. Print at 100% infill. We've found PLA to be perfectly adequate but if you have it you may want to consider a carbon reinforced PLA or ABS for maximum stiffness. PETG will work for this part but it tends to be too flexible and will bend a lot more under the weight of the lid than other materials.
One set = 2 sides snapped together and one divider piece per double roller set. You'll need 4 bearings per spool too.
To calculate the number needed take the number of spools you want to be able to have on rollers and subtract one. Then add two single rollers for each end. For example. For 11 spools you'll need 10 double roller sets (20 individual sides), 10 dividers, two single roller sets (4 single side pieces) and 44 skate bearings (608ZZ or equiv). The dividers should be printed vertically with the wide flange at the bottom touching the build plate. Be mindful of your tolerances with this print. If you have not already printed a calibration cube to be sure your printer's dimensional accuracy is correct please do so. Having dimensions right and proper extrusion thickness is critical for good snapping together. PETG is recommended if you'd like to be able to un-snap the rollers after assembly but PLA will work fine also if you just intend to snap together once and leave it. Print at 3 shells, 5 bottom layers, 10 top layers (to be sure the snaps are solid) and 20% infill. Additional variants with different holes for different side
Please contact support@repkord.com with any questions or concerns.