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Turnigy Multistar 30A #52

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Floyer007 opened this issue Jul 6, 2014 · 101 comments
Open

Turnigy Multistar 30A #52

Floyer007 opened this issue Jul 6, 2014 · 101 comments

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@Floyer007
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I'd flashed the Turnigy Multistar 30A (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25365__Turnigy_Multistar_30_Amp_Multi_rotor_Brushless_ESC_2_4S.html) with kda.hex and it's getting very hot after a few seconds.
One of my ESC burned down and after it my Motor, too.

I'd tried different versions since 2012 and they all have the same problem.

Thank you for fixing this issue.

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 7, 2014

This seems rather serious. There are a number of posts regarding this issue. Of course, I went and flashed mine before seeing there were problems. Now I'm afraid to fly until either this is resolved, or I have to order new ESCs :-(

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762953&page=3#post27472839
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2188024
http://fritzw.com/2014/07/02/turnigy-multistar-30amp-simonk-overheating-like-on-fire/

@Floyer007
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Maybe there is a fuse-Bit Problem or something like this.

To specify the Issue:
If I'm connecting the Motor with a flashed ESC and let it free-wheeled at lowest throttel, the ESC is getting hand-warm after approx. 30sec.
With more throttle, it's getting more then hand-warm.

With a mounted prop, the Motor needs a lot ore current and the ESC is getting boiling hot.
It's okay with an stabilized current-source (okay means, that the ESC doesn't burn after 1 minute testing).
Unfortunately I'd tested one ESC directly with my Lipo and one phase burned down after approx. 40sec. with medium throttle.
I'd got a sudden Motor stop, it wobbled around and released magic smoke.
(*I'd tested the motor today and it's still okay hopefully. Maybe only some plastic smoked)

If you need more informations, please ask, so I can help you.

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 7, 2014

Okay, I can confirm that I have this exact problem. I ran on low throttle (on the ground) and the Multistar 30A SBEC ESC got noticeably warm in less than 30 seconds. The others (3 * Multistar 30A OPTO) were still icy cool. I flashed all of them with the latest kda.hex yesterday.

Another data point... since flashing, the ESC in question tries to drive the motor even when the only power is from the flight board via USB. This is new behaviour, and very suspicious.

@Goodplayervivian
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Hi,Floyer007
I am a player not for a long time ,I also got the same problem in my ESC,but now I solve this problem from my friend,he advise this ESC have two version,the old one and the new one ,so there are also have two software,these two version ESC need match the different software version.I guess maybe you brought the new ESC but flashed with the old software.I brought three new ESC and flashed with the new software,this ESC boasting high efficiency,all N-channel design,I am very like it .Here I uploading the two version ESC and the software ,hope this can help all of you.

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 8, 2014

@Goodplayervivian, where would I find the updated code? There are no recent commits here, you have no repositories, and none of the forks seem relevant.

@Swerh
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Swerh commented Jul 9, 2014

I also use this ESC, I think you flashed a wrong software and get this problem, pls try to download the correct files and select the right version file to flash, wish you will be success!
http://www.divshare.com/download/25795440-a95

@Goodplayervivian
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I also solve this problem by flashing the software, here I upload the two different version ESC with two different files,hope this can help your guys
http://www.mediafire.com/download/njog23wt8o5ree7/Turnigy+Multistar30A.zip

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 16, 2014

@Goodplayervivian, thanks for the file. I won't get a chance to reflash until tomorrow at the earliest.

How did you generate the modified firmware? What options?

What would be really useful is if you could actually document the code differences from the existing kda.inc, and/or issue a pull request to get them in here. There seem to be a lot of people burning up these ESCs for no good reason, if the solution is already understood.

@thehurley3
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@Goodplayervivian what changes did you make for them to work? could you create a pull request?

@JimKuhn do you know what git commit started this overheating, so I can clone it and roll back the changes(I really need the firmware, the official one that shipped with it is horrible. I cant fly with it as the motors won't spin at the right speeds so the quad twirls on the ground and rips it's props. I know its the official firmware as I swapped out everything with spares. I also tested the esc with different motors and the same problem).

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 17, 2014

@thehurley3 I have no idea what commit started the problem. I was using the stock firmware (successfully). Upon flashing with SimonK, 3 of the ESCs (OPTO) seem fine, the 4th (SBEC) does heat up dramatically.

@Goodplayervivian I definitely have the old version of the ESC (if the pictures you enclosed are accurate). Flashing with your enclosed Old.hex does not seem to fix the problem, the ESC is blistering hot in short order...

@thehurley3
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@JimKuhn Thanks

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 19, 2014

This is a refresh rate problem. The multistar ESCs are using a p-channel FET that has a really high turn-off time according to the datasheet. What that means is that the body diode in the FET is still conducting current when PWM is turned on. The easy way to fix this is to reduce the PWM rate to 8kHz, which will allow the body diode in the FET to turn off between each cycle of commutation.

I've made an edit to the code that seems to fix the problem. The downside is that the PWM rate is now into the audible range, which is kind of annoying. But at least your aircraft won't catch on fire now - they're nice and cool to the touch after extended full-throttle operation, even without any airflow over them.

Either way it's a simple fix and I'm going to submit a patch. If it's accepted, you'll be flashing 'multistar.hex' to these instead of 'kda.hex'.

Stay tuned.

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 19, 2014

For those of you capable of compiling this yourselves: http://meat.damnit.us/tgy/multistar.patch should do nicely.

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 19, 2014

For those of you not capable of compiling this yourselves: http://meat.damnit.us/tgy/multistar.hex will do the job.

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 19, 2014

@khudson, fantastic... this patch looks plausible :-) I'll apply and build
tomorrow.

On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 4:53 PM, khudson notifications@github.com wrote:

For those of you capable of compiling this yourselves:
http://meat.damnit.us/tgy/multistar.patch should do nicely.


Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub
https://github.com/sim-/tgy/issues/52#issuecomment-49529294.

@sim-
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sim- commented Jul 20, 2014

Hello! I was actually just testing this myself with a Multistar 30A that arrived yesterday. Mine is all N-channel, no P-channel. I've posted pictures here: http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_9351000004/ ...and renamed the old ones to _old: http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_9351000004_old/ . khudson, do yours look different? It will need more than adjusting the PWM frequency, if so..

@Floyer007
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When I take a look at your pictures, I have the Problems, with the "old" version.

@sim-
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sim- commented Jul 20, 2014

Are there any differences at all with your board vs the pictures in the "old" directory? Like which FETs they used? Possibly there is an intermediate revision where they tried to do something cheaper (my assumption :)) and then figured that was a bad idea and redesigned it to be all-N-channel.

So, it turns out mine was just kda.inc modified to have an inverted high side. I've pushed a new kda_nfet board type and fixed the voltage sense values for this and the original board (normally not used).

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 20, 2014

@khudson, any reason why this problem doesn't affect the OPTO version of this ESC? Perhaps they are using the "old" p-channel FET that doesn't have the lower refresh rate requirement.

@sim- I wish I had the new version :-(

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 20, 2014

sim-: mine look like the '_old' type. I ordered them about a week ago from the HK US warehouse. An all n-FET design makes these far better than they were, especially at that price point. Anyways, I'll verify the FETs are the same on your "old" one and mine, and follow up to this message.

Jim: I'm not sure - I don't own the "opto" version (opto in quotes here because it's probably not actually optoisolated - I haven't seen any of them that are). If you cut the shrink off and take some photos that show the FET model number I can dissect the datasheets and let you know what I think is going on.

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 20, 2014

Looks like your old one has Toshiba TPC8020 n-channel FETs and Alpha/Omega AO4407A p-channel FETs. I do believe we've found the culprit - there is an intermediate (likely indeed "cost savings") version that uses instead Toshiba TPC8123 p-channel FETs and retains the TPC8020 n-channel FETs.

From the datasheets for the AO4407A and TPC8123:

TPC8123: Turn-off fall time: 80 ns, no specific body diode recovery time
AO4407A: Turn-off fall time: 12 ns, body diode recovery typ. 30 ns

Either way the two parts are such a different spec it's kind of amazing they don't fry themselves with the stock firmware.

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 20, 2014

@khudson - I can confirm that both the "opto"/BEC version both use the TPC8020-H. The "opto" uses the AO4407A, whereas the BEC version uses the TPC8123

@Floyer007
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@khudson I'd tested your multistar.hex and it works fine. (No overheating) But I have no Quad currently to test it.

@JimKuhn
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JimKuhn commented Jul 20, 2014

@khudson @Floyer007 I'll be flashing and flying hopefully tomorrow (too much came up today). Thanks for the work on figuring out this mystery.

@Floyer007
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But test it carefully, maybe there is an unexpected behavior at full speed or something like that. (I didn't test the motors with props)

@sim- I'd forgot to check the name of my mosfets. Also I forgot them at my laboratoy and will give more informations about them the next days.
But I think they're the same like khudsons, cause I'd bought them at the UK Warehouse two weeks ago.

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 21, 2014

I just got back from a session at the park. Aside from having to free one of my quads from a tree (heh) all my ESCs performed flawlessly, as did the batch of 4 that my friend had on his quad. We fly pretty aggressively, so if something was going to burst into flames it probably would have.

@sim-
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sim- commented Jul 21, 2014

Ok, I pushed a kha_8khz target for this case (done with just an include), since this probably also affects compatible boards.

When I was originally testing with the HK-SS30A (non-HW) boards (http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_HK-SS20A/), the issue seemed to be related to the slew rate (and maybe miller effect?) and the drive of the high side. The high side FETs briefly turn on while the low side was turning on (swinging down) if the current was still flowing through the PWM'd phase. Depending on the motor and load of the motor, it would be fine or would get very hot in seconds.

This happens even at low speeds, so I found that I could drag a motor by hand without causing much heating, but then if I dragged a little more, it would rapidly heat the high-side FETs (because they were all turning on-ish, for a brief period). On the 'scope, you could see that the difference was if the current had collapsed or not yet by the time PWM turns on (pulls down) again.

For example, with this (old, unrelated) 'scope trace, you can see that the current has stopped before the PWM (on ch1) turns on again: http://0x.ca/sim/esc/timing_loss_fix/zc_debug_unloaded_390kv_zoom.png ...but dragging/loading the motor elongate the time it takes to collapse back to the floating range, and, with enough load, meets the part where it turns back on again, leaving a trace of just high and low on the PWM'd phase.

I suspect the problem here could be fixed by adjusting the gate resistors on one side (low or high), or by changing the drive strength through the NPNs that they use to drive the P-channels. Lower PWM will help, but the shoot-through problem will still happen if the motor is loaded enough.

@svenp
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svenp commented Jul 21, 2014

Hello, i have also bought 3 weeks ago 6 Multistar 30A BEC at Hobbking in European Warehouse. Before flashing i have read about the heating Problems. So now i opened the heat shrink and found a old Design, but with TPC8123 and TPC8020H
http://postimg.org/image/426ie5maz/
http://postimg.org/image/sheqf7l7v/
So i can confirm the FET change too.
I have not flashed any firmware yet, but I also will use the kha_8khz in future.

@multiyaw
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hello i buy the same esc like sim : http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_9351000004/ whit "tcpa 8012 h" so n channel i flashed them whit kda.hex and they burn immediatly so who have tested kda_8khz whit this version?
and who know make a correct firmware for this esc. i dont buy more multistar for sure.
And thanks for the work of the community if anyone make a firmware for this version im ok for test on my esc i just wish they not catch fire^^

@khudson
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khudson commented Jul 24, 2014

Those need to be flashed with kda_nfet.hex as simon outlined above. Then they won't burn.

@sim-
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sim- commented Dec 17, 2014

I've already wished a few times that I had yet another channel and the external trigger, but it really depends on what you're doing.

You can mix ESCs with different firmware. They may have very slightly different power characteristics, but you probably won't notice. 8kHz is the PWM frequency, which is a workaround for circuitry issues on the boards where they tried to change FETs but before they moved to a P/N design -- cross-conduction can occur and cause excessive heating. This is completely unrelated to the heating you might see if you flash the wrong target without using a current-limited source and fry some FETs. :)

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 17, 2014

Yea that's understandable, cheers for getting back. Happened at the worst and most frustrating time for me when I was starting out but searching back then there was nothing on it.

The chip on the three ESC's that seemed ok at the time are the 4407A P-Channel which I am assuming are the old original ones? Before they changed them to N-Channel FETS?

@sim-
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sim- commented Dec 17, 2014

Right, as in the first ones I received right when after they were announced: http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_9351000004_old/ There are some changes in the middle where 8kHz PWM is needed, and now they've finally moved to an all-N design http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_9351000004/

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 17, 2014

Good to know, cheers for the info and for all the hard work you've put into this hobby.

@Kidvette58
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Hi Simon, I really don't know which one to get and could use some advise from someone who has knowledge of the equipment. The 2ch w/ext. trigger or 4ch. I listed what I would mostly be using it for but can narrow that down even more if it would help you with advising me. Mainly the R/C stuff like the speed controllers or testing components on circuit boards to see what went bad. Should I get the cheap PC 2ch scope w/ext. trigger for stuff I need an ext. trigger for and get the nice 4ch for everything else? Would the PC scope work good enough to test the speed controllers or are those just junk? I promise I won't get mad if you help me decide what I should get and I end up not liking it. Not that you care but just in case that was stopping you ;) Maybe you could point me in the direction of something that I could read to help me decide. I read a bunch on EEVblog but I couldn't find anything on what scope I should get. What do you use for testing the speed controllers?

Thank you,
Merry Christmas if I don't type at you again before Xmas :)

@driftvk
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driftvk commented Dec 23, 2014

I recently bought a Turnigy SK450 with 20A multistars & flashed one of the esc's with kda_nfet.hex.
Worked for a few secs & then ran hot and stopped, didn't release the smoke. Reflashed to kda_8khz but esc doesn't do its bootup sounds when power applied. Oops!

Turns out its a mixed P/N model with 4407A and 8020. See attached pics for anyone with same model so they don't make same mistake I did :)

http://postimg.org/image/eny28qmxt/
http://postimg.org/image/qai69va8x

Cheers

@sim-
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sim- commented Dec 23, 2014

I use 4ch mostly only to capture all motor phases in complicated conditions. Your can use any channel on the 4ch as an external trigger. It's your call. :)

Those 20A multistars seem like P/N, so I'm surprised kda_nfet worked at all (reminds of that video where the ESC was shooting fire while working)... I really wish there was a reliable way of stopping before damage is caused in those cases.. I suppose it would possible if it saved state to the EEPROM to avoid being later confused by spinning motors, but it still sounds unreliable.

@Kidvette58
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That's another thing I was wondering. If you can use another channel as a trigger then u could have 3 channels with 1 trigger. So what's the benefit of a 2 channel scope with a trigger?

From what I read there are 3 versions of the Multistar 20a and the older 2 work fine but the newest one just burns up even though they say, and I quote, "All Multistar ESC's feature an ATmega MCU that opens the door to customizable firmware - for those so inclined!". On the RapidESC Database it says the newest one and middle one are N and the oldest one is P/N. The 2 older ones use kda and the new one uses kda_nfet. So I'm a little confused on that. Wouldn't you use something different on the one that has both P&N Fet's? I ordered mine on 10/24/14 and I have the ones that look like dflash0's pictures. I haven't seen any that look like turorit's pictures.

I'm going to save the Multistars for something else and get the Hobby King 20a Blue Series. I can get it to fly ok but if there's wind it oscillates fast and that makes for crappy video. If they ever get the Multistar 20a controllers back in stock I'm going to order a couple to experiment with and if you feel like helping I'll try any ideas you might have.

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 24, 2014

Tried flashing some old Multistar 30amps with the kda_8khz that have the TPC8123 fet in them. Get extremely warm after a minute of running the motor. These were the ones I originally flashed the kda on but got too hot too fast, tried the kda_8khz version but still get warm. Any ideas? I'm not in any need of these but having some working spares ones would be good. Could anyone shine light on this?

Thanks

@megabri
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megabri commented Dec 29, 2014

Hi rittzy, I have your same problem. One of four Turnigy Multistar 30A OPTO reflashed with kda.hex get extremely warm after a minute of running motor. It's very strange because the other 3 pieces working fine (flashed with same SimonK fw).
I waiting for a solution, but I'm considering also the option to re-buy a different ESC model.
Currently the 30A Multistar from HobbyKing is "dismissed product".
Are you interest to buy my 3 pcs that work fine ?

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 29, 2014

Make sure you check to see what MOSFET design they are using. If it's the TPC8123 one then try and flash the kda_8hz firmware as it seemed to work for a lot of people.

@megabri
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megabri commented Dec 29, 2014

Sorry for the stupid question, but I can't find the kda_8khz.hex fw file, were I can download it ?

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 29, 2014

Are you using the KKMulticopter Flashtool to flash the ESC? I have attached a screenshot of the drop down menu's you need to click in order to show the SimonK repository where the firmware files are. If you don't use this method let me know.

kktool

@megabri
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megabri commented Dec 29, 2014

Thank you very much.
To be honest I used the avrdude.exe with CLI, but in this case I will use kkmulticopter flash tool.

Regards
Gabriele Merlonghi

Il giorno 29/dic/2014, alle ore 18:41, Chris notifications@github.com ha scritto:

Are you using the KKMulticopter Flashtool to flash the ESC? I have attached a screenshot of the drop down menu's you need to click in order to show the SimonK repository where the firmware files are. If you don't use this method let me know.

https://cloud.githubusercontent.com/assets/10226066/5570965/d3d84da0-8f81-11e4-97d6-d267953f8928.png

Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub https://github.com/sim-/tgy/issues/52#issuecomment-68279018.

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 29, 2014

Let me know how it goes and if it works for you.

Cheers Chris

@Kidvette58
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Here's a link to the hex files if you want to download them, It's the latest from 9/30/14
http://0x.ca/tgy/downloads/tgy_2014-09-30_61a017f.zip

@megabri
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megabri commented Dec 30, 2014

Yea, after some tests in the laboratory, seems that kda_8kha.hex fix the overheating problem on the 1 of 4 my Multistar 30A opto ESC.
I saw the posted picture in this thread of these ESC, but mine are different... even though are Multistar 30A opto (bought on august 2014). Here my photos, maybe can be helpful for somebody.
img_3602
I confirm the there are TPC8123.
img_3603
Here the points where I soldered the wires to the programmer.
img_3604

So, seems that you save my ESC with this fw.
Currently I have 1 ESC with kda_8khz.hex fw and 3 others ESC with kda.hex fw (that seems not have the overheating issue and working fine).

My doubt now: I have to re-flash also the other 3 ESC with the kda_8khz.hex in order to have the same fw on all ESC ? What do you think about that ?

@rittzy
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rittzy commented Dec 30, 2014

I was told in an earlier post that it is possible to mix different firmwares as they should perform no differently but the only way to find out is to try.

I have two ESC's with the TPC8123 fet on it and even after flashing the kda_8khz they are still warm so I'm not too sure about them but my other ESC's are fine.

@Vytciokaz
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Hi, i have problem with Multistar 30A SBEC ESC. My ESC have TCPA 8012-H, this version: http://0x.ca/sim/esc/HK_9351000004/
By table: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhR02IDNb7_MdEhfVjk3MkRHVzhKdjU1YzdBQkZZRlE#gid=0
i used kda_nfet.hex firmware.
Flashed with kkMulticoper flash tool.
But after flashing with kda_nfet.hex ESC won't work, motor glitching and not started. When connected battery (3S) beeps only once.
Video: http://youtu.be/E1xM8fxjI8o
How to solve this problem?

@mkunz7
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mkunz7 commented Mar 17, 2015

Just for the record.
@dflash0 blheli looks they support the new multistar escs
@dflash0 I have the same hardware as you and flashed it using blhelisuite. But it heats up very quick, motor jitters and doesn't fully spin just like kda_nfet.hex and Vytciokaz
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2136895

@iamsarthakjoshi
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@turorit
"

I recently bought a Turnigy SK450 with 20A multistars & flashed one of the esc's with kda_nfet.hex.
Worked for a few secs & then ran hot and stopped, didn't release the smoke. Reflashed to kda_8khz but esc doesn't do its bootup sounds when power applied. Oops!

Turns out its a mixed P/N model with 4407A and 8020. See attached pics for anyone with same model so they don't make same mistake I did :)

http://postimg.org/image/eny28qmxt/
http://postimg.org/image/qai69va8x

Cheers
"

So how did you solve the problem? Can you please tell me ? I have same Quad and ESCs. I want to flash those with simon k.

@driftvk
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driftvk commented Apr 23, 2015

@iamsarthakjoshi
Hi mate,
Didn't end up resolving the issue in the end. I ended up swapping the dead esc with another random one I had laying around & flew the quad like that. Recently I bought 4 new ESCs, the hobbyking 20A (F-20A) & flashed those with simonk.
Sorry I couldn't help!

@iamsarthakjoshi
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@turorit
Thanks bud! I was going to flash those ESCs!! Lol and you saved me.
Anyway let me know which version of simonk fw did you use on hobbyking 20A (F-20A) ?

Thanks again! :)

@driftvk
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driftvk commented Apr 23, 2015

@iamsarthakjoshi
Haha glad to hear I was of some help then!
For the F-20A I used bs_nfet.hex as per https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhR02IDNb7_MdEhfVjk3MkRHVzhKdjU1YzdBQkZZRlE#gid=0 and http://www.rchacker.com/diy/simonk-esc-firmware-flashing

Cheers

@iamsarthakjoshi
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@turorit
Yeah you did :)
Cool. Thanks! What about flashing with HK's Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool? (No soldering no tinkering nothing.. just placing the tool on the chip and flashing.) I already have it. So do you think its possible to flash using Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool ?

Does the ECSs work great after you flash them? I found a guy flashing the same Multistar 20A ESCs with audrino on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIk_h52rx8g) and they surprisingly worked.

@driftvk
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driftvk commented Apr 23, 2015

@iamsarthakjoshi
I used the same tool as you to flash my F20A's, so no issues there.
Interesting way to do it with the arduino, whatever works I guess, plenty of different ways to flash :)

ESCs work well after flashing, but to be honest I haven't noticed much of a difference between the multistar's and the reflashed f20a's. This might just come down to my P/I gains & general inexperience with quads/escs etc.

Happy tinkering!

@bla66
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bla66 commented Feb 1, 2016

can anyone halp me with right firmware for those esc?

12514042_10208641441779054_5799729160149706362_o

they are from sk450 turnigy multistar sbec 4a 2-4lixx

@mamak1n
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mamak1n commented Apr 26, 2016

Hi bla66 ,

did you solve it? Even I'm searchin the right firmware for the multistar 20a from turnigy sk450 (hobbyking).

I bought the atmel tool and usbasp, but don't know if to use the kda.hex or the kda_net.hex , can someone who have the same model can help me?

thank you

@bla66
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bla66 commented Apr 28, 2016

hey mamak1n

I have bought like you atmel tool and usbasp and i tried both kda.hex and kda_net.hex and ends up in burning the motors...so dont use any of them

I didn`t find any other useful software so i will buy this esc http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=15202&aff=754418
and new motors which i burned

when i install and try them i will update the post

@mamak1n
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mamak1n commented Apr 28, 2016

thank you for reply and for advise me, so I will not buy the atmel cable, I found 4 esc with already simonk firmware on ebay for a total of 20 euro , the same cost of the atmel tool 👍

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