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JamesNewton edited this page May 18, 2020 · 2 revisions

DEXTER HD BUILD PARTS & NOTES

See also: YouTube video series

DEXTER HD GLUE RIGS:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - 1” x 264mm CF Tube
  • 1 - 1” x 68mm CF Tube
  • 1 - Arm Body
  • 1 - External Gear Mount
  • 1 - Axis Intersection
  • 1 - ¾” x 243mm CF Tube
  • 1 - Diff Body A
  • 1 - End Arm Hub

Assembly Notes:

  • Glue 1 Top Rig & 1 Bottom Rig at a time
  • Make sure all parts are clear of zero layer & 3D Print material before assembly
  • Dry Fit all parts on Glue Rigs before applying Epoxy Adhesive
  • Use a carbon fiber strake to lock Axis Intersection in place to prevent movement while adhesive is drying
  • Apply the Epoxy Adhesive thoroughly to both sides of the connections
  • Don’t over Epoxy the connections & remove excess if needed on both Rigs
  • All parts should be flush & level with the Glue Rigs
  • Add weight to hold in position if necessary
  • Allow Epoxy to dry per manufacturers recommendations
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 1 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD BASE:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - Base Mount Bottom
  • 1 - Base Long
  • 6 - 133mm CF Strakes
  • 6 - Feet
  • 6 - 165mm x 20mm x 5mm Aluminum Strakes

Assembly Notes:

  • Epoxy the Feet to the 165mm Aluminum Strakes
  • Always apply the Epoxy to all parts of the connections
  • Then immediately Epoxy the 165mm Aluminum Strake to the Base Mount Bottom
  • Set the Mount on a flat surface & push the opposite legs together to bottom them out & fit evenly
  • Allow to dry
  • Epoxy the 133mm CF Strakes to the Base Mount Bottom & Base Long filling every other position as these 2 parts slide together & lock in place
  • When Epoxying the Base Long the 133mm CF Strakes are meant to stick up approximately ¼” so the Base Code Disk has something to sit on when installed
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 2 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD HARMONIC DRIVES:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 3 - Motors
  • 3 - Harmonic Drives
  • 3 - Flex Spline Attach
  • 3 - Flex Spline Cap
  • 18 - M2 x 12mm Bolts
  • 18 - M2 Nuts
  • 12 - M3 x 10mm Bolts
  • 3 - Wave Gen Coupler
  • 6 - M3 x 8mm Hex Bolts
  • 6 - M3 Nuts

Assembly Notes:

  • Assemble 1 Drive at a time only
  • Always keep Harmonic Drive Parts (top & bottom - together as they are specific to each other & will not interchange with other Harmonic Drives
  • Remove all Zero Layer Material from Flex Spline Attach before assembling
  • Always use lube when attaching Harmonic Drive to Flex Spline Attach
  • Take Harmonic Drive Flex Spline & using a Press join it & the Flex Spline Attach together
  • Once together separate the Flex Spline from the Flex Spline Attach & look for any zero-layer material that may have been missed or pushed down the nubs during the pressing together of the 2 pieces
  • If there is no extra material seen to be removed, you may continue to the next step
  • Secure Flex Spline Attach to Motor using 4 - M3 x 10mm bolts
  • Tighten M2 bolts to Flex Spline Cap with approximately ¼” of the threads showing through the opposite side
  • Next you will need to press the M3 Nuts into place in the Wave Gen Coupler & insert the M3 x 8mm Hex Bolts to hold into place while you take a small amount of Epoxy & cover the head of the M3 Nuts to lock into place
  • Let dry & continue to the next step
  • Ream Wave Gen Coupler & always use lube to slide on Motor Shaft
  • Use Wave Gen Tool to set depth of Wave Gen Coupler on Shaft
  • Tighten M3 x 8mm Hex Bolts snuggly alternating from a couple turns on one then a couple turns on the other so it tightens down fevenly but don’t over tighten & strip
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 3 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD MAIN PIVOT:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - Main Pivot
  • 2 - Pivot Motor End Caps
  • 3 - 6810 Bearings
  • 4 - 126mm CF Strakes
  • 4 - 146mm CF Strakes
  • 1 - Pivot Code Disk
  • 2 - Motors with Harmonic Drives
  • 1 - Base Code Disk
  • 1 - Base Stator Holder
  • 3 - 105mm All Thread
  • 6 - M3 Nuts
  • 3 - #6 Washers
  • 4 - M2 x 16mm Bolts
  • 2 - M3 x 12mm Socket Head Bolts
  • 1 - Base Clamp
  • 1 - M3 x 20mm Bolt
  • 1 - M3 Nut

Assembly Notes:

  • Epoxy the 126mm CF Strakes to the short end of the Main Pivot
  • Apply Epoxy to Main Pivot Holes & Strakes before joining
  • Epoxy the 146mm CF Strakes to the long end of the Main Pivot
  • Apply Epoxy to Main Pivot Holes & Strakes before joining
  • Always check for excess Epoxy after joining parts together & remove as necessary
  • The Main Pivot has weep holes to allow excess Epoxy to escape so be sure to wipe it off after joining both sets of 126mm & 146mm CF Strakes
  • It is imperative that you Epoxy both the 126mm & 146mm Strakes at the same time as they can see each other inside the Main Pivot Body & the Epoxy from both sides mix together inside the Main Pivot
  • Upon completion the CF Strakes should be sticking out of the Main Pivot approximately the same distance on both sides
  • Press the Pivot Motor End Caps onto the 6810 Bearings
  • Slide the 2-sided Pivot Code Disk on the Main Pivot with the flat side facing away from the Main Pivot
  • Epoxy Pivot Motor End Caps to the Main Pivot by applying Epoxy to the face of the Main Pivot & the bottom of the Pivot Motor End Cap & join
  • Keep in mind that the notch on the Pivot Motor End Cap should be facing the hole for the Motor Wires in the long end of the Main Pivot
  • For the short end it doesn’t matter as the hole for the Motor Wires is in the middle of the Main Pivot
  • Feed the Motors with Harmonic Drives Wirers through the holes in the Main Pivot on both sides & pull out the hole in the Main Pivot
  • Apply Epoxy to the bottom of the Motors & face of the Pivot Motor End Caps & the inside of the Strakes & outside of the Motor where the Strakes will lay
  • After the Motors have been Epoxied on it is time to mount the Main Pivot onto the Base
  • Place a 6810 Bearing into the Base Long & press it down until it sits in position about 1&1/2” down
  • If the Bearing is hard to get down use a Rubber Mallet & Aluminum Strake to tap into position
  • Take your Base Code Disk & align with the 3 protruding Strakes & gently push down to snap in place
  • Then take your Base Long with the wires coming out of the top & push onto the Main Pivot until it is all the way down & flush
  • Most times the 6810 Bearing pushes out on the opposite side so turn the Main Pivot over & use a Rubber Mallet & Aluminum Strake to tap back down & into place
  • Next you will remove the Socket Head Screws from the Flex Spline Attach 1 screw at a time & add a #6 washer to hold the Bearing & lock the Motor in place while it dries
  • Place 4 lubed M2 x 16mm Bolts into the Base Stator Holder & screw down
  • Place the Harmonic Drive Top in the Base Stator Holder with the stamped #52 facing you & make sure the 2 threaded holes in the Harmonic Drive Top are lined up with the 2 threaded holes in the Base Stator Holder then install & tighten the 2 M3 X 12mm Socket Head Bolts
  • Next take the 3 - 105mm All Thread & put a drop of Thread Lock on them & place an M3 Bolt on & screw until flush with the end of the All Thread
  • Then take the assembled Base Stator Holder & slide onto the Strakes of the Base Long & press down all the way occasionally turning the Motor Shaft to go on easily
  • Once in place slide the 3 - 105mm Bolts with the M3 nuts on them into every other hole on the Base Stator Holder
  • Place the Base Long on the Base Mount & turn the Base Long until the Notch in the Main Pivot lines up with the All Thread
  • Once lined up take your #6 Washer & place on the All Thread then add the M3 Nut & tighten for all 3 105mm All Thread turning each to line up with the Notch in the Main Pivot
  • Take the M3 Washer & place in the Hex side of the Base Clamp & screw the M3 x 20mm Bolt from the other side
  • Next you will remove the Base Long from the Base Mount & slide the Base Clamp on the Base Mount
  • Then replace the Base Long & tighten to secure in place
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 4 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD ARM BODY:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - Arm Body Bottom
  • 1 - 6810 Bearing
  • 4 - #6 Washers
  • 1 - Pivot Stator Holder
  • 4 - M2 x 16mm Bolts
  • 2 - M3 x 12mm Socket Head Bolts
  • 4 - Stator Balancers
  • 1 - Large Belt Director
  • 2 - Small Belt Directors
  • 3 - Belt Director Caps
  • 1 - Belt Director Pulley
  • 1 - Idler Plug
  • 1 - MR 85 Bearing
  • 6 - MR 125 Bearings
  • 1 - M2 x 20mm Bolt
  • 1 - M2 Nut
  • 1 - M2 Washer
  • 1 - M3 Washer

Assembly Notes:

  • Place the 6810 Bearing into the Arm Body & press it down until it sits in position about 1&1/2” down
  • Next you will slide the Arm Body over the Pivot Motor & snap into place
  • The Bearing may push out of the Arm Body somewhat so you may need to use a Rubber Mallet & Aluminum Strake to tap back into position
  • Then take the M3 x 12mm Socket Heads out 1 at a time & add the #6 Washer & retighten to lock the Bearing into position
  • Place 4 lubed M2 x 16mm Bolts into the Pivot Stator Holder & screw down
  • Place the Harmonic Drive Top in the Pivot Stator Holder with the stamped #52 facing you & make sure the 2 threaded holes in the Harmonic Drive Top are lined up with the 2 threaded holes in the Base Stator Holder then install & tighten the 2 M3 X 12mm Socket Head Bolts
  • Then take the assembled Pivot Stator Holder & slide onto the Arm Body & press down all the way occasionally turning the Motor Shaft to go on easily
  • Once it is seated in position take the 4 - Stator Balancers & tap into place with a rubber mallet not hitting too hard to break the Stator Balancer
  • Next we will put the Belt Directors together by placing the 6 - M128 Bearings into the Belt Directors
  • Then put a drop of Super Glue inside the Belt Directors (do not put the Super Glue on the Belt Director Cap as it will seep out once pushed into the Belt Director & lock up the Bearing -, one at a time & push the Large & Small Belt Directors through from front to back & push the Belt Director Caps into the Belt Directors from the back & squeeze into position
  • Next put the MR 85 Bearing on the Idler Plug Shaft & screw the M2 X 20mm Bolt into the Idler Plug from back to front
  • Then hold the Belt Director Pulley between the 2 sides of the Belt Director & push the Idler Plug from back to front & squeeze together
  • Once in position place the M3 Washer then the M2 Washer & finally the M2 Nut & tighten
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 5 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD DIFFERENTIAL:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - Top Arm
  • 1 - Diff Body B
  • 1 - Diff Gear Shaft
  • 1 - Diff Gear Axel
  • 1 - Split Gear Top
  • 1 - Split Gear Bottom
  • 1 - AXK0819 Bearing
  • 2 - AS Thrust Races
  • 1 - 90mm CF Rod
  • 1 - Diff End Pulley
  • 1 - Internal Outer Pulley
  • 2 - Pulley Spacers
  • 1 - Diff Axel Keeper
  • 1 - Diff Body A Cap
  • 4 - 1” #19 Wire Brads
  • 1 - 6705 Bearing
  • 6 - 6703 Bearings
  • 4 - MR 128 Bearings
  • 1 - Super Glue
  • 1 - Hot Glue
  • 1 - Small Zip Tie
  • 3 - 25mm Strakes
  • 1 - End Effector Wire Set

Assembly Notes:

  • Take Top Arm & insert 1 - 6705 Bearing & 1 - 6703 Bearing into the Diff Body A & push in until seated
  • Then insert 1 - 6703 Bearing into the End Arm Hub & push in until seated
  • Next take the Diff Body B & insert 2 - 6703 Bearings in each side & push in until seated
  • Then take the Diff Gear Shaft & insert 2 - MR128 Bearings into each end & push in until seated
  • Next take the Split Gear Top & insert 1 - 6703 Bearing & 1 - MR 128 Bearing where fitted & push in until seated
  • Then take the Split Gear Bottom & insert 1 - 6703 Bearing in one side & 1 - MR 128 Bearing in the other side & push in until seated
  • You will see 4 holes in the sides of the Split Gear Top that will need to be reamed/drilled in about ¼”
  • Next we want to join the Split Gear Top & the Split Gear Bottom together by pressing the Top into the bottom & pushing until it’s seated
  • You will also see 4 windows in the sides of the Split Gear Bottom so rotate the Split Gear Top until you can see the holes through the windows
  • Once the holes are lined up in the windows use 1 - 1” #19 Wire Brad with a dab of Super Glue on it & insert approximately ¼” into the window & Split Gear Top for all 4 windows
  • Once you have done this you may trim the excess 1” #19 Wire Brads off with a pair of Dikes to cut as flush as you can with the windows
  • Next you will take the Small Zip Tie & push the flat end into all 4 windows as far as you can & hot glue into place then trim the excess off, so it is also flush with the window
  • Then take 3 - 25mm Strakes & Epoxy them into the 3 slots in the bottom of the Split Gear Bottom & let dry
  • Next push your Diff Gear Shaft into the Biff Body B until it is seated
  • Once you have done this take the Diff Body B & push it into the Diff Body A being certain they are pushed together tightly & joined in place
  • Next you will feed all 6 End Effector Wires through the Diff Body B entrance around the opening in the middle through the other side & out the shaft
  • To do this you will feed 3 End Effector Wires at a time starting with Red White & Blue through the top entrance to the Diff Body B & around the opening & out the Diff Body B Shaft
  • Then take the Black Green & Yellow End Effector Wires & feed them through the bottom entrance of the Diff Body B around the opening & out the Diff Body B shaft
  • The reason we do this is that only 3 End Effector Wires will fit through the channel on each side of the opening in the Diff Body B
  • When installed correctly you should be able to pull the wires from side to side & have them flow freely through the Diff Body B
  • Next you will feed the End Effector Wires protruding from the Diff Body B shaft through the Assembled Split Gear & slide the Split Gear down the shaft as far as you can until the Gear meets the Diff Body B
  • Take the 89mm Carbon Fiber Rod & lightly sandpaper the end to rough up & accept the Epoxy better & Epoxy the Diff End Pulley 6mm from the end of the CF Rod making certain that the protruding side of the Diff End Pulley faces the long side of the CF Rod
  • Next make sure the 6703 & MR128 Bearings are pushed all the way into the Diff Gear Shaft so the Diff Gear Shaft end sticks out past the 6703 Bearing about 1mm
  • Then take the Diff Axel Keeper & apply a drop of Super Glue to it & snap into place over the end of the Diff Gear Shaft up against the 6703 Bearing
  • Take the MR85 Bearing & push it into the back flat side of the Diff Gear Axel so it sticks out about 1mm
  • Next rough up the other end of the CF Rod & Epoxy the Diff Gear Axel to the end of the Carbon Fiber Rod
  • Take the MR85 Bearing & push it into the back flat side of the Diff Gear Axel so it sticks out about 1mm
  • Then insert the CF Rod through the Diff Gear Shaft & push all the way in until it won’t go any further
  • Once this is done hand turn the Split Gear to make sure everything is spinning properly
  • Next slide 1 AS Thrust Race over the End Effector Wires & Diff Body B Shaft followed by the AXK0819 Bearing & followed by the other AS Thrust Race & finally Epoxy only the Chamfered edge of the Diff Keeper with a small nail to not over Epoxy & feed the End Effector Wires through & onto the Diff Body B
  • Once in position place another Diff Keeper or similar part on top of the Epoxied Diff Keeper & clamp tightly together until the Epoxy is dry
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 6 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD END ARM HUB:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - Axis Intersection
  • 1 - Front Panel
  • 1 - Diff Keeper
  • 2 - 6810 Bearings
  • 1 - New Belt Pulley
  • 3 - 6703 Bearings
  • 2 - 48mm Strakes
  • 3 - 81mm Strakes
  • 1 - Internal Inner Pulley
  • 4 - M3 x 107mm All Thread
  • 11 - M3 Nuts
  • 4 - JAM Nuts
  • 1 - Bottle Thread Lock
  • 12 - M3 Washers
  • 1 - 124mm Stainless Steel Rod
  • 5 - MR128 Bearings
  • 1 - End Arm Code Disk
  • 1 - External Inner Pulley
  • 1 - External Outer Pulley
  • 1 - End Arm Hub Cap
  • 1 - Internal Outer Pulley
  • 6 - M3 x 6mm Set Screws
  • 3 - Pulley Spacers
  • 1 - Top Arm with Differential Assembled

Assembly Notes:

  • Insert 1 - 6810 Bearing into both Axis Intersection halves
  • Then take the New Belt Pulley & push into the Axis Intersection on the Arm Body side
  • Next place a small amount of Epoxy in the holes on the Arm Body Side of the Axis Intersection
  • Then Epoxy the other half of the Axis Intersection & the mirror image of the Arm Body it will be adhering to be sure to add Epoxy to all areas being joined
  • Next you will join the Axis Intersection halves together & Epoxy the other holes where the 48mm Strakes will go
  • Slide the 48mm Strakes into the holes on the Axis Intersection & remove any excess Epoxy that squeezes out & clamp in 2 places the End Arm Hub & allow to dry per manufacturers specifications
  • Pay particularly close attention to the New Belt Pulley after Epoxying the Axis Intersections together as occasionally the Epoxy will seep out & onto the New Belt Pulley
  • While the Epoxy is drying periodically spin the New Belt Pulley to make sure it is freewheeling & not obstructed
  • Next you will Epoxy the 3 - 81mm Strakes into the slots in the Internal Inner Pulley & push them in until flush with the Pulley side
  • Make sure the Epoxy does not seep out & dry on the flush side so it creates an uneven surface
  • Always keep in mind when joining Dexter Parts together with Epoxy you will need to remove excess Epoxy whenever necessary as all pieces fit together with Bearings & no extra Epoxy can impede their being flush together
  • Then press your 2 - 6703 Bearings into one side of the New Belt Pulley & 1 - 6703 Bearing into the other side & make sure they are seated all the way down as far as they will go
  • Next take your already assembled Top Arm with Differential & line up the 4 holes on the back of the End Arm Hub with the 4 nubs on the end of the New Belt Pulley & push together into place
  • Then take your 124mm Stainless Steel Rod & slide the Internal Outer Pulley on with the Set Crews facing the long end of the SS Rod & lock into position 3.1mm from the end you just slid it over
  • When tightening Set Screws always turn the Set Screw until tight then back it off & tighten again moving from Set Screw to Set Screw repeating the same amount of times until the Set Crew is cut into the Stainless-Steel Rod & the Internal Outer Pulley is even
  • Once these 2 steps are complete you will slide a Pulley Spacer between the Internal Inner Pulley & the Internal Outer Pulley & join these 2 pieces together to make 1
  • Next take this piece combo of the SS Rod & Internal Inner/Outer Pulley & feed it through the End Arm Hub connection until it is in as far as it will go
  • Take your 4 - M3 x 107mm All Thread & put 2 - M3 Nuts & 1 Washer on one end & tighten them together flush with the end of the All Thread
  • Then place your End Arm Code Disk on the outside of the Axis Intersection Hub with the raised side facing in
  • Next take your All Thread & screw 1 piece into the End Arm Hub until it comes through the End Arm Code Disk slightly & add an M3 Washer & a JAM Nut
  • Once in this position take 1 - M3 Washer & 1 - JAM Nut & put a drop of Thread Lock on the JAM Nut side & screw it on until it is flush with the end of the All Thread
  • This is very important as the External Inner Pully needs to clear all 4 JAM Nuts & All Thread in order to spin freely without catching them / M3 Nuts are too thick & will obstruct the Pulley if used
  • Then place 3 - M3 Nuts into the slots in the Internal Outer Pulley & cover with Epoxy
  • Next place 3 - M3 Nuts in the slots in the External Outer Pulley & cover with Epoxy & let both dry
  • Once these are both dry take the 6 - M3 x 6mm Set Screws & screw them into the M3 Nuts you just Epoxied into the Internal Outer Pulley & the External Outer Pulley & set them right to the end of the M3 Nuts
  • Then you can break the connection between the 2 - M3 Nuts on the end of each M3 x 107mm All Thread & add a M3 Washer & tighten the inner Nut down snug without over tightening
  • Next you can snap the End Arm Hub Cap into place
  • Then take 1 - MR 128 Bearing & put it into the end of the Internal Outer Pulley & push into position
  • Also take 1 - MR 128 Bearing & push it into the End Arm Hub Cap
  • Next take the External Inner Pulley & slide onto the Stainless-Steel Rod & push in until it stops
  • Then add the other Pulley Spacer followed by the External Outer Pulley
  • After this you will need to tighten the 3 - M3 Set Screws on the External Outer Pulley making sure you apply pressure from both sides of the End Arm Hub to keep everything tight while using the same Technique to tighten down the Set Screws
  • Then you will take 2 of the MR 128 Bearings & place them in the shaft hole of the Front Panel
  • Sometimes this placement will be easy & other times you will need to remove the zero layer of the inside of the shaft hole to help the MR 128 Bearings push in easily with distorting the opening or breaking the Bearing
  • Next take the Front Panel & place the bottom saddle on top of the protrusion on the Arm Body & slide it over the shaft of the 124mm Stainless Steel Rod
  • Then you will take the Diff Keeper & put a small amount of Epoxy on the inside face with the concave side facing in & join it together with the Front Panel
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 7 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD EXTERNAL GEAR:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - External Gear Motor End Cap
  • 1 - Motor with Harmonic Drive Assembled
  • 2 - Motors
  • 8 - M3 x 8mm Bolts
  • 8 - M3 Washers
  • 4 - M3 Nuts
  • 4 - M3 x 10mm Bolts
  • 1 - External Gear
  • 2 - 6810 Bearings
  • 4 - M3 x 12mm Socket Head
  • 4 - #6 Washers
  • 1 - External Gear Mount Top
  • 2 - M3 x 45mm All Thread
  • 6 - M3 Nuts
  • 1 - Nut Holder A
  • 1 - Nut Holder B
  • 4 - M3 x 12mm Socket Head Bolts

Assembly Notes:

  • Place the 4 M3 Nuts into the hex shaped nut holders on the External Gear Motor End Cap
  • Screw the M3 x 10mm Bolts into the M3 Nuts from the bottom of the External Gear Motor End Cap
  • Then feed the wires from the Motor with Harmonic Drive through the External Gear Motor End Cap
  • Next you will apply Epoxy the bottom of the Motor with Harmonic Drive & the top of the External Gear Motor End Cap
  • Then you will join these 2 pieces together lining up the Notch in the External Gear Motor End Cap with the Wires from the Motor with Harmonic Drive
  • After you press them together pull the Bolts out away from the External Gear Motor End Cap, so the Nuts are all the way in
  • Take 1 of the 6810 Bearings & press into the External Gear until it sits in position about 1&1/2” down
  • The Bearing may push out of the External Gear somewhat so you may need to use a Rubber Mallet & Aluminum Strake to tap back into position
  • Take the final 6810 Bearing & place & tap it into the top of the External Gear
  • Next you will remove the Bolts 1 at a time & replace them with a M3 x 12mm Socket Head with a #6 Washer & tighten opposite bolts in a cross pattern
  • Never tighten any bolts on any assembly without using a cross or star pattern
  • Now we are going to Mount the Harmonic Drive Top to the External Gear Stator Holder
  • Place the Harmonic Drive Top in the External Gear Stator Holder with the stamped #52 facing you & make sure the 2 threaded holes in the Harmonic Drive Top are lined up with the 2 threaded holes in the External Gear Stator Holder then lube the bolt shafts & install & tighten the 2 M3 X 12mm Socket Head Bolts
  • Then take the assembled External Gear Stator Holder & slide onto the External Gear lining up the notches on both sides & press down all the way occasionally turning the Motor Shaft until hand tight
  • Next you will place the M3 Nuts into the Nut Holder A & Nut Holder B then slide the Nut Holders into place on the External Gear Mount while keeping in mind the curvature of the Nut Holders to put in the correct sides
  • Make sure they are pushed in far enough to accept the All Thread
  • Then take the assembled External Gear Mount & feed the wires through the hole in the External Gear Mount & slide into the Strake Holes & squeeze hand tight
  • Then you will install the 4 - M3 x 12mm Socket Heads Bolts & tighten to secure External Gear in place
  • Put 2 M3 Nuts on 1 end of the M3 x 42mm All thread & tighten together at the end of the All Thread
  • Next take the External Gear Mount Top & fit it over the External Gear & insert the M3 x 42mm All Thread & tighten into place
  • Next we will install the 2 - Motors for the Angle & Rotate in the External Gear Mount
  • Take the first Motor & feed the Motor Shaft from back to front through the External Gear Mount opening & make sure you line up the Wires from the Motor facing towards the Arm Shaft
  • Then take 4 - M3 x 8mm Bolts & place M3 Washers on them
  • Next you will insert each Bolt with Washer through the Bolt Hole in the front of the External Gear Mount & tighten in a cross pattern until the Motor is sucked all the way inside the External Gear Mount with none of the Aluminum Body of the Motor showing
  • Make sure you don’t overtighten & strip out the Bolt receivers as they are Aluminum
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 8 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD BELTS:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 2 - 16T x 5mm GT2 Pulleys
  • 2 - Pieces 2’ Long of Thick Kevlar
  • 4 - Pieces 2’ Long of Thin Kevlar
  • 1 - Super Glue
  • 2 - 9mm x 132mm Belts
  • 4 - 9mm Belt Grippers
  • 4 - 9mm Belt Inserts
  • 2 - 6mm x 79mm Belts
  • 2 - 6mm x 120mm Belts

Assembly Notes:

  • Slide the 2 - 16T x 5mm GT2 Pulleys on the External Motors & make sure before you tighten the Set Screws that the Belts line up with the Belt Directors above & 1 of the Set Screws is being tightened down on the flat side of the External Motors shafts
  • Refer to Part 9 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions

DEXTER HD WIRE HARNESS:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 1 - Motor Control Board
  • 1 - FPGA Board
  • 1 - Micro Chip Image 2019_04_29
  • 1 - PCB Bracket
  • 1 - L2 Skin Bracket
  • 4 - PCB Spacers
  • 4 - M3 x 20mm Bolts
  • 1 - 5’ Piece of 24 AWG Power Wire Black
  • 1 - 5’ Piece of 24 AWG Power Wire Red
  • 1 - Power Connector

Assembly Notes:

  • First you will need to break the M2 connection on the back of the Motor Control Board by taking a pair of Dikes or Wire Cutters & snipping that connection
  • Next take your FPGA Board & place it on top of the Motor Control Board & snap into place
  • Then take your Micro Chip & slide into place on the bottom of the FPGA Board & push to lock into place, to remove push again & it will unlock so you can pull it out
  • Then take your PCB Spacers & line them up with your bolt holes so you can feed your M3 x 20mm Bolts through the FPGA Board, PCB Spacers then out the back of the Motor Control Board
  • The bottom Motor Control Board PCB Bracket needs to be Epoxied into place 37.5mm up from the Arm Body Joint, this will also set the position for the Top Motor Control Board L2 Skin Bracket when it is added
  • Next hold the Motor Control Board into place with the PCB Brackets on the opposite side of the 1” CF Tube & screw the M3 x 20mm Bolts into place without overtightening & stripping out the holes, if this does happen you can use an M3 Nut to hold in place
  • Take your Power Wires & Connect them to the Power Connector making sure the Black Wire goes on the (-) Negative side & the Red Wire on the (+) Positive side
  • Refer to Part 10 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further list of Parts needed for Assembly
  • Refer to Part 10 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions on how to Assemble

DEXTER HD TOOL INTERFACE / GRIPPER:

PARTS NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY:

  • 2 - Dynamixel XL-320 Servo Motors
  • 2 - 6703 Bearings
  • 5 - M2 X 16mm Bolts
  • 4 - M2 X 12mm Bolts
  • 4 - M2 X 20mm Bolts
  • 3 - M3 X 10mm Bolts
  • 1 - M2.6 X 10mm Bolt3
  • 12 - M2 Nuts
  • 4 - M3 Nuts
  • 9 - M2 Washers
  • 8 - 17 - 1 1/16" Satin Pins
  • 1 - 25mm X 5.6mm X 2.5mm CF Strake
  • 1 - Tool Interface Body
  • 1 - 3 Pin Connector
  • 1 - Gripper Wire Cover
  • 1 - Roll Body
  • 1 - Roll Driver
  • 1 - Span Mount
  • 1 - Span Driver
  • 2 - MR128 Bearings
  • 1 - Parallel Dynamic Finger
  • 1 - Parallel Static Finger
  • 1 - Pinion Gear
  • 1 - Pinion Bearing EXT
  • 1 - M3 X 16mm Bolts
  • 1 - 3 Pin Connector
  • 1 - 6 Pin Connector
  • 1/8” Heat Shrink
  • 1 - Super Glue
  • 1 - Bottle Thread Lock
  • 4 - 25cm pieces of 28-gauge wire in Black, Red, Blue & Green
  • 2 - Pieces of Yoga Mat for Parallel & Static Dynamic Fingers

Assembly Notes:

  • Dry Fit the 25mm Strake in the Triangular Slot in the Top of the Span Mount to make sure once Epoxy is added it will slide into position
  • First mix a small amount of Epoxy, apply it to the 25mm Strake & slide the Strake into the triangular slot in the top of the Span Mount & push it down until the top of the 25mm Strake is even with the top of the Notch in the Span Mount top looking away from you across the top of the Span Mount & it should be flush with the inner surface of the bottom of the Span Mount
  • Next take the Tool Interface Body & slide 3 - M3 Nuts in the outer slots of the Tool Interface Body
  • Then you will line them up by screwing the M3 x 10mm Bolts into the 3 holes on the outside of the Tool Interface Body
  • Once they are line up force a small amount of Epoxy into the holes directly above the M3 Nuts to lock & hold them into place
  • Next take 2 - 6703 Bearings & press them into each side of the Roll Body
  • Then take the Roll Driver & 1 - 17 - 1 1/16" Satin Pins & clip the head off of it so you can insert it into the chuck on a cordless drill & tighten it down as this will be used for reaming the 4 smallest holes on the bottom of the Roll Driver
  • Once the holes have been reamed take your remaining 4 - 17 - 1 1/16" Satin Pins & push them through all 4 holes until the Pins are sticking out the other side approximately .635cm (1/4”)
  • Then cut the heads off the Pins & apply 1 drop of Super Glue to the heads to lock into place & push down flush with the Roll Driver
  • Once this is done you can cut the other side of the Pins flush with the opposite side of the Roll Driver
  • Then you will need to sand down both sides of the Pins so there are no sharp edges or protrusions from either side
  • Next when threading in the 4 - M2 x 20mm bolts in the Roll Driver, you want 2 - M2 x 20mm Bolts that are diagonal from each other to stick out about 2mm, just enough to hold onto the holes in the Span Mount without movement
  • Then press the flat side of the Roll Driver into the side of the Roll Body that is not flat & push through until flush with the other side where the 6703 Bearing is & if there is any resistance you can tap down with a rubber mallet
  • Next take both of your Servo Motors & make sure there is a 1 on one Motor & a 3 on the other Motor
  • Then take the connector out of the Motor labeled 1 & plug it into Motor labeled 3
  • Next take the connectors & press them against the groove on the top edge of the Motor while holding them in place & slide the Motor down into the Tool Interface Body as far as it will go until it snaps into place
  • Then you will take the 3 Pin Connector, a Blue, Red & Black Sharpie & mark all 3 Pins on the Connector using Blue for Data on the left, Red as Power in the middle & Black as Ground on the right (opposite for the connector on the other side of the Servo Motor)
  • Next you will cut the right Connector (looking at the Tool Interface from the front (M3 x 10mm bolt facing you) all 3 wires in the middle removing the top Connector portion & feed them all through the middle hole on the Servo Motor towards the top of the Tool Interface Body
  • Tin the stripped ends of the wires with solder to hold the strands together
  • After they are all fed through the middle hole on the Servo Motor you will need to cut each of them down to approximately 1.27cm (1/2”)
  • Then strip the top .635cm (1/4”) with wire strippers
  • The top wire on the Servo Motor closest to the top of the Tool Interface Body looking from the front is the Black Ground Wire & you are going to Solder the Black Sharpie Mark on the 3 Pin Connector, the middle wire is the Red Power Wire going to the Red Sharpie Mark on the middle of the 3 Pin Connector & the bottom wire goes to the Blue Sharpie Mark on the 3 Pin Connector
  • The other side is the opposite
  • Then add a small piece of Heat Shrink 1 at a time as you solder all three individual wires to all 3 individual Pins using the method described directly above each color corresponding to the Dexter Wires Black, Red & Blue
  • Next take 4 - 25cm (10”) pieces of 28-gauge wire in Black, Red, Blue & Green & feed them through the center hole of the Roll Driver & press them into the groove of the Span Mount
  • Then line up the bolts on the Roll Driver with the bolts on the Span Mount & tighten them down while keeping the wires in the groove & tighten them until they are slightly sticking out of the holes in the Span Mount
  • Next take an M2 Washer & an M2 nut & use a small flathead screwdriver OR Exacto Knife to spin the nuts on as a conventional wrench will not work
  • Once the bolts are threaded on wedge & hold with the small flathead screwdriver & tighten the nuts all the way down
  • Next remove the Bolt in the Motor Cap without turning the Motor as this will misalign if you do & will need to reset it to top
  • Now that the Roll Driver & Span Mount have been joined, feed the Roll Body end of the wires into the hole of the center of the Motor without turning the Motor
  • Then pull the wires through until the Roll Driver is just about to connect with the Motor then match up the nubs with the Roll Driver in a way that’s as close to zero as possible as the zero position should be to where the nubs on the Span Mount are on top
  • The Span Mount Eye should be at 90 degrees when you push the Roll Body onto the Tool Interface
  • Gently push the Roll Driver into the Motor & give the Span Mount a few slight turns back & forth to ensure you’ve linked the Roll Driver
  • Next take 2 - M2 x 12mm bolts & thread them into the end holes on the Roll Body & tighten with an M2 nut as the center hole is left empty
  • Then take 4 - M2 x 16mm Bolts & thread through the remaining 4 holes & tighten with M2 Washers
  • Next take your Span Motor that is labeled #1 & take the center screw out as you did with the Roll Motor
  • Then take the plastic Driver off the Motor
  • Once that is off match up the Motor’s Driver with the hole on the Span Mount & push the Motor into the 2 nubs at the bottom of the Span Mount as this will hold it in place
  • Then you will fasten 2 - M2 x 12mm bolts in the holes to the right of The Span Mount with M2 Washers & M2 Nuts
  • After this we need to connect the 2 Motors together by taking your other connector in the Roll Motor & solder it in the same way & color scheme as you did for the first Motor
  • Next you will cut all 3 wires in the middle removing the top Connector portion & feed them all through the right hole on the Servo Motor towards the top of the Tool Interface Body
  • After they are all fed through the right hole on the Servo Motor you will need to cut each of them down to approximately 1.27cm (1/2”)
  • Then strip the top .635cm (1/4”) with wire strippers
  • The top wire on the Servo Motor closest to the top of the Tool Interface Body is the Blue Ground Wire going to the Blue Wire, the middle wire is the Red Power Wire going to the Red Wire & the bottom Black Wire goes to the Black Wire
  • Prep the stripped ends of all wires with solder to hold the strands together
  • Cut 3 pieces of Heat Shrink .635cm (1/4”) & slip over the end of the Black, Red & Blue Wires coming out of the Tool Interface Body
  • Next you will solder the corresponding Colored Wires to each other & slip the Heat Shrink down over the solder connections & use a heat gun or alternate source to shrink them down
  • Then you will take the end of the connector you cut off & plug it into the back of the Span Motor & trim the wires on it & the remaining Black, Red & Blue Wires from the other end of the Tool Interface Body down so there is approximately .635cm left to solder together
  • Solder the original end of the first Connector to the wires that plug into the Span Motor before connecting the wires to the Roll Motor
  • You want to pull the soldered wires away from the Span Motor, so they are as tight as possible before soldering them to the Roll Motor
  • Next you will follow the above instructions to solder the remaining wires together & Heat Shrink as described above
  • After the wires are connected & the heat shrink is done the ones from the base of the Tool Interface must be glued down with super glue, so the rotation of the Span Mount does not contact & damage the wires
  • Turn the Motors to make sure they spin & the red lights are visible
  • If you look down the center of the Span Driver, you will notice there is a notch on the hole as this is how you will match it up with the Driver on the Motor itself
  • Take the Span Driver & push it into place once lined up & take an M2.6 x 10mm Bolt & screw it into the Span Driver until snug
  • Don’t overtighten & strip as it is designed to hold the Span Driver in place
  • Next 1 1/16" Satin Pins & clip the head off it so you can insert it into the chuck on a cordless drill & tighten it down as this will be used for reaming the 2 small holes on the top of the Pinion Gear
  • Then you will roll the Satin Pins in Super Glue & with the tip of your Needle Nose Pliers force the Satin Pins into the reamed holes on the Pinion Gear as far as they will go, let dry & clip the Pins off flush with the Pinion Gear
  • You may need to use a little sandpaper to dull the cuts you just made
  • Then place an M3 Nut in the Pinion Gear
  • Then place the last 2 - MR128 Bearings into both sides of the Parallel Static Finger
  • Next take the Pinion Gear & slide it into the Parallel Static Finger with the horseshoe facing the opening
  • Then take the Pinion Bearing EXT & line it up with the Short Hash Mark on the Pinion Gear as these 2 parts will only fit together one way
  • Once lined up screw an M3 x 16mm Bolt & screw it in until snug as this is to hold the Pinion Bearing EXT in place
  • Don’t overtighten & strip you still need to be able to turn the Pinion Bearing EXT easily
  • If it is too tight it will be difficult to turn
  • Next turn the Span Driver until the flat side is facing forward with the horseshoe side facing you as this opens it for the Gripper
  • Take the Parallel Static Finger & turn the Pinion Gear until the Hash on the Pinion Bearing EXT lines up with the Long Hash Mark on the Parallel Static Finger
  • Then you can push the Parallel Static Finger onto the Span Mount
  • Make sure you push these 2 pieces together hard so the 25mm Strake goes into the hole for it on the Span Mount
  • Next take the Dynamic Static Finger & slide it into the Parallel Static Finger & close all the way
  • Finally take your 2 pieces of Yoga Mat & cut them down to fit on the inside face of the Parallel & Static Dynamic Fingers & Hot Glue them into place
  • This assembly is complete
  • Refer to Part 11 of the Assembly Videos on the Haddington Dynamics YouTube Page for further Instructions on how to Assemble

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