Formatting content for print

Makefile

@@ -21,86 +21,86 @@ DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS = \
 	--template templates/pdf.tex \
 	--toc
 
-makerland print:
+makerland_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_FILE_NAME) -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/$(BOOK_FILE_NAME).pdf
 
-makerland pdf:
+makerland_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_FILE_NAME) -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/$(BOOK_FILE_NAME).pdf
 
 intro:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(NOTOC_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) introduction.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/introduction.pdf
 
-3dmodeling print:
+3dmodeling_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)a_3dmodeling.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/3dmodeling.pdf
 
-3dmodeling pdf:
+3dmodeling_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)a_3dmodeling.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/3dmodeling.pdf
 
-buildbot print:
+buildbot_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)b_buildbot.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/buildbot.pdf
 
-buildbot pdf:
+buildbot_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)b_buildbot.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/buildbot.pdf
 
-drones print:
+drones_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)g_drones.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/drones.pdf
 
-drones pdf:
+drones_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)g_drones.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/drones.pdf
 
-firmata print:
+firmata_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)e_firmata.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/firmata.pdf
 
-firmata pdf:
+firmata_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)e_firmata.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/firmata.pdf
 
-hens print:
+hens_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)j_hens.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/hens.pdf
 
-hens pdf:
+hens_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)j_hens.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/hens.pdf
 
-home print:
+home_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)h_home.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/home.pdf
 
-home pdf:
+home_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)h_home.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/home.pdf
 
-lights print:
+lights_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)n_lights.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/lights.pdf
 
-lights pdf:
+lights_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)n_lights.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/lights.pdf
 
-lilypad print:
+lilypad_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)i_lilypad.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/lilypad.pdf
 
-lilypad pdf:
+lilypad_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)i_lilypad.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/lilypad.pdf
 
-pythonruby print:
+pythonruby_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)c_pythonruby.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/pythonruby.pdf	
 
-pythonruby pdf:
+pythonruby_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)c_pythonruby.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/pythonruby.pdf
 
-soldering print:
+soldering_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)d_soldering.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/soldering.pdf	
 
-soldering pdf:
+soldering_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)d_soldering.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/soldering.pdf
 
-underwater print:
+underwater_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)f_underwater.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/underwater.pdf
 
-underwater pdf:
+underwater_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)f_underwater.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/underwater.pdf
 
-javarobots print:
+javarobots_print:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)p_javarobots.md -o $(BUILD_PRINT_DIR)/javarobots.pdf
 
-javarobots pdf:
+javarobots_pdf:
 	$(PDF_BUILDER) $(DIGITAL_PDF_BUILDER_FLAGS) $(SOURCE_DIR)p_javarobots.md -o $(BUILD_PDF_DIR)/javarobots.pdf
 
 clean:
-	rm -f pdf/$(BOOK_FILE_NAME).pdf
+	rm -f_pdf/$(BOOK_FILE_NAME).pdf

content/workshops/a_1introduction.md

@@ -0,0 +1,62 @@
+\newpage
+\thispagestyle{empty}
+\mbox{}
+
+\newpage
+
+# Introduction
+
+Dear Reader,
+
+Welcome to the first edition of Makerland Tutorials: Your First Steps with the Internet of Things. You're looking at the open source book for experimental conference - Makerland 2014. We created this book to help our conference attendees successfully go through the workshops presented at Makerlan. We felt it's really wrong that only 300 people can use this resources to start their own journey with the Internet of Things, Arduino, 3D printing and more.
+
+This book is not meant to be readed in the armchair, with a cup of latte, it's rather a hands on dive into world of Internet of Things. Each chapter is prepared by someone else, so you may notice a difference in style or formatting. We asked all of Makerland workshop leaders to prepare a tutorial for their workshop station and then we put it all together as a book.
+
+At the beginning of each chapter, you'll find a list of things you need to have in order to accomplish the goal. Tutorials are structured as a step by step instructions. Most of them required some programming knowledge, but if you know nothing about coding, this book is going to teach you something about that too.
+
+If you have any problem with a particular step in this book, please go here and open an issue: 
+<https://github.com/Makerland/book/issues>. We would love to help and improve this book with you.
+
+## Who made this?
+
+Our wonderful workshop leaders spent a lot of time and put a lot of effort to make those tutorials. All of them are amazing experts on what they do and have a great passion to teach people about hardware.
+
+__Authors__:
+
+- Miłosz Dąbrowski, Justyna Fałdzińska - 3D Modeling chapter
+- Pawel Szymczykowski - Build-a-bot chapter
+- Wojtek Siudzinski, Mateusz Kozak - Python & Ruby sitting in a tree chapter
+- Szymon Kubicki - Soldier, wire, glue! chapter
+- Mike Swift - Tinkering with Arduino chapter
+- Martin Evans - Dive, dive, dive! chapter
+- Andrew Nessbit, Felix Geisendörfer, Robin Mehner - Dancing Drones chapter
+- Jon Gottfried - Hack Your House chapter
+- Karolina Chmiel - Build Your Own Smartwatch chapter
+- Alan McCullagh - Hacking Hens’ Happiness chapter
+- Charalompos Doukas - Magic Lights chapter
+- Stephen Chin - Retro Gaming on Raspberry Pi
+
+We cannot thank you enough for your work, patience and understanding. This book could never happen without your amazing support. 
+
+## Feedback
+
+We welcome any feedback on this book. We know it’s not yet perfect. It’s an open source book, that’s why you can improve it, too! We kindly ask you to make it constructive and the most effective way to change content of this book is to make a pull request on GitHub: 
+<https://github.com/Makerland/book>
+
+## Copyrights
+
+License for this book is Creative Commons Attribution NonCommercial ShareAlike (CC-NC-SA). This means that you can modify and distribute it, but not comercially. You also have to give credit to original authors of the work and you have to release your work based on this book under CC license. This way we can achieve our goal: give people a free way to learn about Internet of Things, and protect the hard work that workshop leaders put into this book.  
+
+
+## Enjoy!
+
+Good luck and happy making!
+
+\vspace{0.5in}
+\hfill\textit{Ola Sitarska, Kuba Kucharski and Przemek Lewandowski}
+
+\newpage
+\thispagestyle{empty}
+\mbox{}
+
+\newpage

content/workshops/c_pythonruby.md

@@ -2,10 +2,6 @@
 \thispagestyle{empty}
 \mbox{}
 
-\newpage
-\thispagestyle{empty}
-\mbox{}
-
 \newpage
 
 ![](content/workshop_images/pythonruby.jpg)
@@ -202,6 +198,8 @@ But firstly the wires. Lets start with DHT11 (don’t disconnect the sonar, it w
 
 ![](content/workshops/pythonruby/4_meteo_dht_bb.jpg)
 
+\newpage
+
 Now connect VCNL4000:
 
 ![](content/workshops/pythonruby/4_meteo_vcnl_bb.jpg)
@@ -247,8 +245,6 @@ You have one sensor left: HC-SR501 PIR motion detector. This sensor detects moti
 
 Other quirk of this sensor is long lag after detecting motion. There’s potentiometer on a back of it which allows to change it, but event with minimal setting it’s about 3 seconds.
 
-\newpage
-
 Connect the wires like this:
 
 ![HC-SR501](content/workshops/pythonruby/5_alarm_bb.jpg)
@@ -382,8 +378,6 @@ You can stop this now, pressing `Ctrl+C`.
 
 You’ve just used your code to play with something already built, lets get to something more advanced.
 
-\newpage
-
 ### Time for some measurements
 
 Before you write anything lets have fun with wires. Grab HC-SR04 ultrasonic ranging module, Arduino, your breadboard, some wires and connect them all together this way:
@@ -420,6 +414,8 @@ Start with the wires. Don’t disconnect sonar, it will be required late. First
 
 ![DHT11](content/workshops/pythonruby/4_meteo_dht_bb.jpg)
 
+\newpage
+
 Now connect VCNL4000:
 
 ![VCNL4000](content/workshops/pythonruby/4_meteo_vcnl_bb.jpg)
@@ -460,7 +456,6 @@ Now you have your own meteo station, hooray!
 
 **BTW:** you should find source to this exercise in `Python/4_meteo.py` file.
 
-
 ### INTRUDER ALERT
 
 There is one sensor left: HC-SR501 PIR motion detector. Based on infrared light, this sensor, similar to those used in public bathrooms to turn the lights on, detects moves. As it works with infrared it only detects objects which exude heat (i.e. human body, running car). What is important, it detects **motion** not presence. So if you’ll hold still in front of it, it won’t detect you

content/workshops/d_soldering.md

@@ -1,6 +1,11 @@
 \newpage
 \thispagestyle{empty}
 \mbox{}
+
+\newpage
+\thispagestyle{empty}
+\mbox{}
+
 \newpage
 
 ![](content/workshop_images/soldering.jpg)
@@ -114,8 +119,6 @@ Do you feel good with your skills? If so let’s get to the next step if not kee
 - plan the location of connectors through which you will connect to the Arduino Uno board. You should push your shield into the Arduino Uno.
 - connect the MCP23017 expander with the appropriate pin connectors to the Arduino Uno. Pay attention to: power supply and the I2C bus.
 
-\newpage
-
 ![](content/workshops/soldering/10.jpg)
 
 2. A port expander is used to ensure that your microprocessor system has more available ports than a microcontroller does. It is not only LEDs and buttons that you can connect to the system plugs. You can connect any other element which works with the digital (two-state) port of the microcontroller. Through the expander you can control a transistor, a buzzer, a tilt sensor, a servo driver. You can even connect an LCD display.

content/workshops/e_firmata.md

@@ -2,6 +2,11 @@
 \thispagestyle{empty}
 \mbox{}
 
+\newpage
+\thispagestyle{empty}
+\mbox{}
+
+
 \newpage
 
 ![](content/workshop_images/firmata.jpg)

content/workshops/h_home.md

@@ -1,3 +1,11 @@
+\newpage
+\thispagestyle{empty}
+\mbox{}
+
+\newpage
+\thispagestyle{empty}
+\mbox{}
+
 \newpage
 
 ![](content/workshop_images/home.jpg)
@@ -209,6 +217,8 @@ For the purpose of prototyping, we will be using cardboard and duct tape to moun
 
 Attach the two metal rods to your servo with screws and washers.
 
+\newpage
+
 ![](content/workshops/home/image00.jpg)
 
 Now use a piece of cardboard (or other stiff material) to make a tighter bond between the servo and the lock:
@@ -219,6 +229,8 @@ Now use a piece of cardboard (or other stiff material) to make a tighter bond be
 
 Now you can tape the servo to the deadbolt lock. Make sure it is positioned on the correct side so that the direction that the servo turns in is aligned with the direction that the lock turns in:
 
+\newpage
+
 ![](content/workshops/home/image11.jpg)
 
 And last but not least, we will tape our servo’s arms to the deadbolt itself:

content/workshops/i_lilypad.md

@@ -2,10 +2,6 @@
 \thispagestyle{empty}
 \mbox{}
 
-\newpage
-\thispagestyle{empty}
-\mbox{}
-
 \newpage
 
 ![](content/workshop_images/lilypad.jpg)
@@ -25,19 +21,13 @@ spare time cutting, sewing, and experimenting with various materials to create i
 
 ## Overview
 
-Create your own multifunctional smart watch with the LilyPad Arduino, a microcontroller board designed for wearables and e-textiles. It can be sewn to fabric and similarly mounted power supplies, sensors and actuators with conductive thread.
-
-During this workshop you will learn how to sew and connect whole elements. 
+Create your own multifunctional smart watch with the LilyPad Arduino, a microcontroller board designed for wearables and e-textiles. It can be sewn to fabric and similarly mounted power supplies, sensors and actuators with conductive thread. During this workshop you will learn how to sew and connect whole elements. 
 
 Have you ever heard about pomodoro technique? When whole leds are bright, that means you are very busy and nobody should disturb you. When leds are off, buzzer sound tells you that this is brake time. This management method uses a timer to break down work into intervals and it is based on the idea that frequent breaks can improve mental agility. 
 
-Blinking leds measuring our time is the first goal. Then we will upgrade our circuit to create light piano instrument and memory game.
-
 ## Preparations
 
-We have two different Lilypad boards available: Arduino LilyPad FTDI and Arduino LilyPad USB. The difference is that Arduino LilyPad USB is simpler: it connects directly with computer by micro-USB cable and have less pins. Arduino LilyPad FTDI  needs to be connected through FTDI Breakout (drivers are needed). Feel free to choose one of them and follow appropriate instruction.
-
-__Make sure that you have collected:__
+We have two different Lilypad boards available: Arduino LilyPad FTDI and Arduino LilyPad USB. The difference is that Arduino LilyPad USB is simpler: it connects directly with computer by micro-USB cable and have less pins. Arduino LilyPad FTDI  needs to be connected through FTDI Breakout (drivers are needed). Feel free to choose one of them and follow appropriate instruction. __Make sure that you have collected:__
 
 Arduino LilyPad FTDI, FTDI Breakout and mini USB cable
 
@@ -47,7 +37,7 @@ or Arduino LilyPad USB and micro USB cable
 
 ![](content/workshops/lilypad/2.jpg) \
 
-###  
+\newpage
 
 Battery Holder and Cell batery