Cheaper Parts to Cut Cost?

[Kirais]

I am trying to build a Pwdr myself. I notice that the prices on the documentations are not correct.

I checked all the prices on the suppliers provided. I am staying in Singapore and Hence all price on Farnell are based on Singapore and may not be the same as the other parts of the world.

This is what I got:

The corrected total cost is $1116.82(the original cost is $1381.64), more than $250 dollars less! What a good news!

But I am not satisfied. I am only a student without any income. I really want to cut the cost as much as possible. Before I say something silly, I should tell you that I don't have any experience of building anything with any of the parts. I was a DIYer for PC, but I have not idea of all the parts listed on the documentation. So please tell me if I make any mistakes. Thanks in advance.

The first thing I want to cut cost is the acrylic plates.

1. Is 8mm necessary? I can save 20euros by using 6mm and 70euros by using 4mm.
2. How about acrylic XT?(I don't really know the difference. I can save 100euros by using 5mm XT plates.
3. Any other thoughts about the frames? Maybe even thinner plates? Maybe another materials? I think we can save a lot by reducing the cost of the framework provided that it won't do harm to the overall stability.
4. The fastenings. I am very surprised to see the price of the fastenings and nuts. Just two pairs cost nearly $40! If those are not of special kind, I believe, I can get them for just $5 in China. Can anyone tell me the reason of such a high price?
5. I noticed that the Arduino Mega 2560 A000047 and the Arduino Mega Proto Shield A000038 are quite old. They can't be found very easily. Can we replace them with the newer versions?(Arduino Mega 2560 A000067 and Arduino Mega Proto Shield A000080? Depends on suppliers this can cut cost by 10euros.
6. Powder supply. The documentation shows "1500W", but when I check the part number, it turns out to be 350W only. I saw this post: Any Idea behind the 1500W Power Supply?  #2 It says 350W is more than sufficient. Anyone knows what is the maximun power required? We can choose a lower power one with a cheaper price.

If all the above can be done with 5mm acrylic XT as frame work, we may possibly build a Pwdr with only 900 US dollars. (at least not difficult to make one below $1000)

Hope to hear some exciting thoughts from you guys.

[Lehoi]

Hi Kirais

The fastenings are cheap because the price listed is for 100 per pack.

greetings

[Pwdr]

Prices are based on European prices, including some shipping to Europe.

1. No, you probably can use 4mm, it will be strong enough. But you'll have to change the design of the parts to make it fit.
2. Cutting quality is different, but again, if you want to save money, you can use it.
3. You could change the frame. Even change the material to MDF. But it will surely cost some stability
4. You can use normal nuts. But these ones apply the pressure a bit more even on the acrylic plate
5. Sure, I didn't mean the A00047 specifically, any Arduino Mega 2560 will do.
6. Any cheap ATX power supply will do, 350W (on the 220V side) is enough.

On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 at 22:25 , Kirais wrote:

I am trying to build a Pwdr myself. I notice that the prices on the documentations are not correct.
I checked all the prices on the suppliers provided. I am staying in Singapore and Hence all price on Farnell are based on Singapore and may not be the same as the other parts of the world.
This is what I got:

The corrected total cost is $1116.82(the original cost is $1381.64), more than $250 dollars less! What a good news!
But I am not satisfied. I am only a student without any income. I really want to cut the cost as much as possible. Before I say something silly, I should tell you that I don't have any experience of building anything with any of the parts. I was a DIYer for PC, but I have not idea of all the parts listed on the documentation. So please tell me if I make any mistakes. Thanks in advance.
The first thing I want to cut cost is the acrylic plates.
Is 8mm necessary? I can save 20euros by using 6mm and 70euros by using 4mm.
How about acrylic XT?(I don't really know the difference. I can save 100euros by using 5mm XT plates.
Any other thoughts about the frames? Maybe even thinner plates? Maybe another materials? I think we can save a lot by reducing the cost of the framework provided that it won't do harm to the overall stability.

The fastenings. I am very surprised to see the price of the fastenings and nuts. Just two pairs cost nearly $40! If those are not of special kind, I believe, I can get them for just $5 in China. Can anyone tell me the reason of such a high price?

I noticed that the Arduino Mega 2560 A000047 and the Arduino Mega Proto Shield A000038 are quite old. They can't be found very easily. Can we replace them with the newer versions?(Arduino Mega 2560 A000067 and Arduino Mega Proto Shield A000080? Depends on suppliers this can cut cost by 10euros.

Powder supply. The documentation shows "1500W", but when I check the part number, it turns out to be 350W only. I saw this post: #2 (#2) It says 350W is more than sufficient. Anyone knows what is the maximun power required? We can choose a lower power one with a cheaper price.

If all the above can be done with 5mm acrylic XT as frame work, we may possibly build a Pwdr with only 900 US dollars. (at least not difficult to make one below $1000)
Hope to hear some exciting thoughts from you guys.

—
Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub (#11).

[Kirais]

To Lehoi: Thanks for pointing that out.
To Alex:
Thanks for your detailed reply.
Can you point out what should the design be changed? All the holes used to connect the parts?
Do you have any other suggestions on reducing costs? Thank you.

[Pwdr]

Yep, all the holes and connectors. Further reducing isn't really possible. With ±$1000 it is one of the cheapest open source rapid prototyping machines around.

On Friday, January 11, 2013 at 14:59 , Kirais wrote:

To Lehoi: Thanks for pointing that out.
To Alex:
Thanks for your detailed reply.
Can you point out what should the design be changed? All the holes used to connect the parts?
Do you have any other suggestions on reducing costs? Thank you.

—
Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub (#11 (comment)).

[Kirais]

I just wonder how Printrbot(DIY kit) made it to just $399...Thanks again.

[Kirais]

Is the price listed for acrylic plates including the costs of cutting in Formulor*? Do you recommend to cut them on Formulor or to find a local laser cutter to cut? Thanks.

[Pwdr]

That's because it's a very limited machine, with low accuracy

On Friday, January 11, 2013 at 15:36 , Kirais wrote:

I just wonder how Printrbot(DIY kit) made it to just $399...Thanks again.

—
Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub (#11 (comment)).

[Kirais]

1. I just checked the svg files using Inkscape and found that the width of the holes are around 6.4mm. Aren't they supposed to be 8mm? Or is it the problem with the software?
2. I also notice that some holes are wider than the others by a little bit. Are they designed in this way?
3. Do you have any recommendation of cutting the materials? Would it be cheaper and more convenient cutting locally? I am not sure the cost of laser cutting in Singapore, but can you use yours as a reference?
   Thanks.

[Kirais]

I am thinking of using a modified ATX case to replace the acrylic made case. Do you think this a good idea?
Because I found that the acrylic framework is easiest part to cut cost. If use a modified ATX to build the printer, we might be able to cut down the cost by 200euros or more. But that requires everything else to be modified. Does anyone have the interest to develop a ATX case version Pwdr?