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2. Build order
The recommended build order is based on soldering smaller components, or components hard to reach behind other components first, following it is entirely optional but highly recommended.
The build guide is also ordered to allow a beginner at soldering to get comfortable with 'easier' to solder components first, and tackling other more challenging one's later.
Soldering the diodes, resistors and capacitors to the backside of the PCB allows it to lie flat when soldering the RGB LED's from the backside, soldering them to the topside of the PCB doesn't change the functionality of the PCB, but makes the RGB's a lot more challenging to solder!
This is also the reason for soldering the rotary encoders and OLED screens last, after the RGB LED's are completed.
- Closing jumpers
- Diodes
- Hot-swap sockets
- Resistors for OLED's, capacitors for encoders.
- Controller sockets, battery cut off/reset switch.
- TRRS jack.
- Optional RGB LED's.
- OLED's & Encoders.
- Clearly mark your two PCB's with a piece of masking tape or similar so you can keep track of which PCB is for which hand. This is optional, but highly recommended to save you from having to fix simple and avoidable mistakes like soldering things to the wrong side of the PCB.
- Soldering a socket for your controller makes it easy to remove or replace it without de-soldering it entirely. This is highly recommended if this a first build!
- It's highly recommended to read or watch a good tutorial on how to solder, and how a finished solder joint should look like before starting! This guide is not a complete reference on this matter.
- When soldering all type of components, heating the PCB for too long, making the solder pads start to lift of the substrate is the most common beginners mistake. Practice the 5 count rule.
Heat for five seconds, let it cool for five seconds. Following this practice means you are not over heating the PCB or component, and you run far less risk of lifting a pad or trace of the PCB.
When you start soldering a joint, as you put the soldering iron on the joint contacting both the leg and solder pad and apply solder to it, count slowly to five before removing the solder tip again. Then count slowly to five again before putting the soldering tip back to re-heat the pad and leg.
If the solder joint needs touching up or more attempts to be completed, this is perfectly fine, but heating it just a little longer to finish a solder is usually a good way to damage the PCB. If you cannot complete the solder in 3-5 attempts, you are most likely either using the incorrect temperature setting or the wrong size soldering tip. At this point clean the solder joint of excess flux residue and try again.
These are the basic tools needed. You may obviously benefit from more/better tools, or be creative if you lack one, but without the tools on this list, the build will be difficult.
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Soldering iron. Max 45W if not temperature controlled (soldering station or Pinecil/TS100 type). For a novice either a pointed tip is recommended, or a small chisel tip (1-2 mm). Avoid using a to large tip as while it makes heating the tin easier, it usually ends up creating damage when you overheat things.
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Desoldering braid / desoldering pump. Both are highly recommended and while you can easily get by with just one, they have a few different uses.
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ESD safe brush. Used for cleaning off the solders, removing excess flux. Makes it a lot easier to find stray strands of solder etc. when looking for short circuits. (A new/unused toothbrush works in a pinch.)
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Side-cutter / Flush-cutter. Needed to cut off and trim diode legs etc. A flush cutter is optional, but nice for avoiding to large nubs.
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Small pliers. Needed to bend and encourage stubborn component legs.
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Medium size flat screwdriver. To remove breakaway parts on plates.
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Small flat file. To clean up the holes after breakaway tabs.
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Small screwdriver or hex driver. For mounting the top/bottom plate together. If your building a kit supplied by me, you need a hex driver.