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3. Building the basic keyboard circuit
Because the solder jumpers are the lowest 'components' on the PCB, soldering them first is much easier than doing it after other components have been added to the PCB.
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At the bottom corner of the controller footprint, there is a single solder jumper (Marked either 'LH / Left Hand' or 'RH / Right Hand'). This sets an input pin to allow the controller to know if the PCB is for the left or right hand. Close the two pads with a small bead of solder as directed by markings.
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For any PCB where the OLED screen will be used, close the four pairs of solder jumpers directly beneath the controller/OLED screen connector, as directed by markings.
v1.11 only
- If using i2c as communication between the two hands, close the two jumpers directly behind the TRRS socket on both PCB's.
- If using Serial, close the one single jumper above the TRRS socket on both PCB's Required when using two OLED screens
Solder the diodes for all the key switches to the backside/component side of each PCB, making sure to place them with the correct polarity. The PCB is uniform, with all the diodes except the diagonal thumb key pointing the same way.
- If using SMD diodes, the white band on one edge should be placed at the side where the arrow is pointing towards.
- If using through-hole diodes, the black band is placed where the arrow is pointing. Bending the diodes are best made with a small plied or similar.
- If using through hole diodes, the off-cut excess legs make an excellent pin to permanently solder or socket the controllers, Save these!!!
Solder all the hot-swap sockets in place to the backside/component side of each PCB. Make sure to check before soldering that they sit flush against the PCB. If the holes are somewhat tight from manufacturing, you might need a small amount of force to seat them fully, or even using a small file to clean the holes from solder buildup/debris before soldering.
If the sockets are not flush, mounting the key switches becomes extremely difficult, and checking before soldering is much easier than de-soldering.
Resistors R1 & R2 are soldered on the backside to any PCB where a OLED screen will be used. Note that the resistors may need to be folded over to the side to lay flat enough to fit under the plates.
The capacitors C1 & C2 are soldered to the backside/component side of any PCB using an encoder. Note that the capacitors may needs to be folder over to lay flat enough and fit under the plates.
Neither the capacitors or resistors used are directional, so which way they are placed in the holes makes no difference functionally.
v1.11 only Soldering the reset switch is optional, and it's really only used for the initial flashing, as with a working firmware/layout a key sequence can be used to put the controller in flashing mode. If used, the switch is soldered to the backside/component side of each PCB.
v1.23 only The battery cut-off switch only has a purpose in a wireless build, and is somewhat challenging to solder because of it's size.
Socketing the controller is highly recommended, and for wireless builds, it's entirely necessary to create space for the battery underneath the controller. Place the sockets on the the backside/component side of each PCB, placing them inside the markings. Solder them from the opposite side.
Place the controller facing the main PCB, on the the backside/component side of each PCB, if socketed flush with the socket, if not socketed place it level as the USB port touches the main PCB.
The TRRS jacks are soldered the backside/component side of each PCB.
Note that for a wireless build with nice!nano controllers, the TRRS jacks are not used to connect the halves at all and should be left not mounted to avoid confusion and possible damage.