The enclosure provided includes STL files ready for slicing and the source models editable in the free edition of SketchUp Make.
The AC power cables should be at least 18AWG 300V stranded cable with a white jacket soldered to the AC/N pad on the PCB and a similar wire with a black jacket soldered to AN/L. These are fed through a rubber push-in grommet mounted into the rear enclousure. I've had good luck stripping an existing 3 conductor power cord and using the black/white wires inside.
The two halves of the enclosure are held together by four 20mm M2 flat-head screws through the rear of the enclosure into a set of four 3mm M2 threaded inserts installed into the front plate.
To install the threaded inserts in the front plate, thread the end of an M2 screw into the insert with the end of the screw flush with the bottom face of the insert (meaning, it's not sticking out the other side). Apply a thin bead of slow-set superglue around the outside edge of the insert, taking care not to get glue on the screw itself as you don't want to pull the glue up into the threads when removing the screw. Then, take a hammer and gently tap it into place on the front plate. You can crack the plastic if you swing too hard, you just need enough force to push the knurled ridges on the outside of the insert into the plate.
Installing the HASP PCB requires a pair of small m2-ish screws, I'm using M2 self-tapping 6MM screws but M2 machine screws will work fine too. There shouldn't be much strain on these two so I haven't bothered with inserts here.
Once everything is fit together then it's a simple matter of running the four 20mm m2 screws through the back to hold the two halves of the enclosure together. Again, be careful not to tighten these too hard as the screws can dimple the front of the switch plate. Now you should be ready to mount into the wall!
