This repository is for both software and 3D-Models related to 3D Printing.
Most of what will be put in this repository will be 3D-Printable models, and some that are just mostly 3D-Printable. The goal is to share useful designs, especially the components most do not print as printable usable models (bolts, nuts, clip connectors, etc). Do to the positive properties for such things many items will best print in PLA with a layer height of between 0.05mm and 0.1mm (thin layers).
Overall this Repo will have various types of bolts, nuts, clipping edge designs, springs, complete bearings, rails, and other things people do not think to print that can be printed (and NOT NEED PURCHASED). PLA has many advantages, including being a renuable material, we are in this for the long hull (not to help deplete resources).
Most items are created using OpenSCAD, as it is the 3D modeling software I am best able to work with. As such the OpenSCAD file will be included along with the STL files for printing.
One eventual goal is to provide enough parts that if you have the controller board (including drivers), Steppers, three low cost motors (for the fans), a J-Head hot end (low cost, easy to cool), and a peice of glass you will be able to print ALL other parts of the printer. That is there will be ZERO need of any kind of pre-made fasteners, pre-made fans, etc. The goal is to be able to print a complete 3D-printer (minus the few things mentioned above) in under 2KG of PLA. There is the eventual goal of going a step furthur and adding a Wax extruder and hot end to create parts to be used to lost wax mold the metal for things like the hot-end, thus increasing the amount of the printer that is 3D-Printed (a step closer to full RepRap in nature).
On the software side this will likely include some software for Macintosh System Software and some for RISC OS.
NOTE MY PRINTER's:
I have used the Anet A8, a couple home made Prusa i3 Clones, and now my main 2 3D printers are TronXY X1's with upgrades. For nozzle diameter I use both 0.4mm and 0.2mm depending on what is best for the print. This should aid in giving an idea of what quality of printer is needed to reach the resolutions equal to what I know when making things.
The TronXY X1 is a very stable printer that provides a lot less vibration and a lot less error than the previous printer's, as such it is the base model I stick with. Yes there are a few upgrades that are important with the TronXY X1 (better y rail to bed platform, better Z support, everything else is gravy), though once these standard new printer upgrades are done and you get the printer completely tuned in the TronXY X1 is hard to beat in quality of prints for under $500 USD.
I take some effort to be sure that the models I share will print well on even less stable printers (like the A8), though most of my print's are on a TronXY X1.
With the TronXY X1 it is possible to get clean prints with layer heights down to 0.03mm, though I usually stick to 0.05mm when vertical detail is important (like small thread nuts and bolts), 0.1mm for most production (final version) prints that do not need the fine layers, and between 0.15 and 0.2mm for quick draft quality prints (very quick test prints and prints that do not need to be of any quality).
A lot of projects require people to purchase seperately bolts and nuts, this should not be the case as 99% of what is needed for nuts and bolts can be printed. Here are some known specs from my experience:
For layer height of 0.05mm:
- Bolt Outside Diameter down to 1.5mm (radius down to 0.,75mm).
- Nut inside diameter down to 1.55mm (radius down to 0.775).
- Thread pitch down to 0.5mm (that is 2 threads per mm).
For layer height of 0.1mm (more common):
- Bolt Outside Diameter down to 2mm (radius down to 1mm).
- Nut inside diameter down to 2.1mm (radius down to 1.05mm).
- Thread pitch down to 0.75mm (that is 1.333333 threads per mm).
Most of the testing I have done is with a low cost FDM 3D printer, and mostly with layer heights of 0.05 for threaded objects. It may be possible to do better at 0.1mm layer height than I have tested as that is minimally tested. The above numbers are with a nozle diameter of 0.2mm, this is quite smaller than normal, though it should be possible to achieve the same results with a nozle diameter up to 0.4mm.
Also remember with threaded objects that you can achieve smooter results by quickly polishing the end part with toothpaste, though do not overdue it.
You Can get better precision than layer height by careful thought of tolerances combined with careful polishing. So you can have finer movement in a drive screw than the layer height of the printed drive screw given correct care.
Given correct thought the only parts of a 3D printer that can not be printed in PLA are:
- Glass of print bed.
- Wires.
- Power Suply.
- Controler board('s) and electronic components on them.
- Stepper motors.
- Fan motors (can have multiple printed fans on one motor though).
- Hot End.
- Nozzle.
- PTFE Tubing (for Bowden Extruder assembly).
Of that list some things can be printed in wax and made in metal with lost wax molding. Also a lot of the equipment for lost wax molding (including where heat is needed) can be printed in Clay with PLA and fired to get us closser to 100%. If you use a mostly 3D-Printed Printer, CNC, and lost wax metal molding setup, you can come close to 95% of the combined equipment being able to be reproduced on the combined equipment.
With a combination of 3D-Printer (capable of PLA and Wax printing), CNC, and Lost Wax metal/glass molding station, all mostly 3D printed you would be able to also produce:
- HotEnd (including heater).
- Bits for the CNC.
- PCB's.
- ~50% of the fan motors (just add insulated Silver Wire windings).
- ~70% of the Stepper motors (just add insultaed Silver Wire Windings).
- The print bed glass.
- All of the CNC except electronic components and wires.
- The mold casings, pots, and burners for the lost wax molding station.
- Most of the resisters, potentiometers and capacitors.
- All hand tools used, including side cuters, flat cuters, angle cuters, high temp tongs, metal wrenches, etc.
This would make for a 3 device setup that in combination is able to reproduce more than 95% of its own parts. If you count a wire extrusion pot and vat in the molding station (also printable with clay and firing) then you can get above 97% reproducable (as you could make most of the wires as well). These are all fairly simple setups, though in all cases there is care and caution that must be taken to achieve the safe operation of the equipment.