Kasparov: Every new generation has a better understanding of chess than the previous.
Masters know many more patterns, memory plays a key role, patterns also help remembering positions.
Photographic memory doesn't exist. Some people have excellent memories and other can develop their memory through association, imagery, linking, etc., but the idea of recalling something like a picture--the human brain doesn't work that way. Master chessplayers were given a memory test: they looked at a middle game positiion from a real game for a number of seconds. Then they were asked to reproduce it on another board. Most of them could do it easily. Then they were presented with a board in which the pieces and pawns were mixed up in a random manner. they could not recall more that the average person off the street. So, a chessplayer doesn't really see a picture, he sees patterns of forces on the board, most of which he is familiar from millions of real games. This is a weak doubled pawn, this is a fianchetto, this is a castled positiion, etc.
So the point is that if you play tons of chess, spend hours learning the openings and all, all you do is become good at chess. It’s a massive waste of time. And it’s addictive.
It’s fine for a social sport, play it once in a while, learn a new thing, have a laugh, but then you’d only be useless at it. Or to make a living out of it makes sense.
Anyway, so the better a chess player is, the more stupid he/she is for wasting time on acquiring a useless skill.
Summary of the elements
The pawn is not a fighting unit by itself, because it doesn't threaten much when it crosses the border. It's attacking force is much lower than other pieces. A pawnless advance can not be sustained because it will be repelled by the opponents pawn center. Opposing free and mobile center pawn, is a dangerous criminal and must be executed exchange by d5 or imprisoned e4 by d6
The center and it's urge to demobilize
- A free and mobile center is a terrible attacking power. it depends if the opponents kinghts can use tempi and find good posts.
- Protection of the center by pawns is preffered, a pawn feels at home defending, a piece feels restricted.
- Take any center pawn if it can be done without too great danger.
In the development phase only moves are allowed that occupy or help occupy the center. This is only partially relevant in closed games because there is less direct contact and development completes at a slower pace.
A pawn move must not be considered in itself a development move but a move which helps development
No pawn grabbing before you complete development
Gaining tempi by:
- Exchange
- Attack
We must render immobile as possible any object we are attacking. An immobile object of attack is the same as a sqaure to be captured, there is no difference because it is reduced to immobility.
Dont allow objects of attack white Qd2 Bd3 black h6 is a bad move because white h3, g4, g5.
A file is open when one's own pawn is not there or the own rook or queen is in front of the pawn, for example pawn on h2 with a rook on h3 the h file is open from h3 onward. Enemy pawns or pieces don't matter to decide if a file is open or closed.
By positioning your pieces centrally without allowing a pawn roller you provoke your opponent into exchanges which open files for you. For example a black Nd4 protected by c5, when captured by white Nf3xd4 after cxd4 opens the c-file for black.
The idea behind any operation on a file consists of finally penetrating on the 7th or 8th in the opponents position. Access to the 7th and 8th
- Direct exploitation of a file is reaching the 7th or 8th
- Indirect exploitation is like a springboard to attack reach or attack another file from the side
- Evolutionary attack: concentrating on one point in order to build up superior forces to attack it
- Revolutionary attack: forced breakthrough with sacrifices
- Both: First evolutionary, defending pieces are badly placed due to lack of space then revolutionary, a forcible breakthrough.
Thinning defenders by driving away, exchanges, cutting off
By transfer of the attack from the protected to the unprotected defender, pawns or pieces
One of our pieces preferably a knight(best radius of attack) placed on a "outpost square", a square within enemy territory protected by pawn on a (half)open file (can still be attacked by a pawn in contrary to other definitions).
When the outpost is attacked by a pawn this weakens other squares/pawn's on the file.
- Can be used as a base for new attacks
- Provokes a weakening on the file by the opponent
- The outpost square must be well protected
the knight is a very special piece it can be attacked by all other pieces without it being able to capture the attacking piece and also the same applies to a piece that is attacked by a knight. But due to the short range a knight is often caught. When protected by a pawn a knight is more or less invinceable because all other pieces have a higher value, only a pawn could drive him away
Definition: no opposing enemy pawns in front or on sides
Can only be blocked by enemy pieces
- The best piece to blockade an enemy pawn is a pawn
- The most secure way to defend our pieces, a pawn
The candidate to create a passed pawn from a majority is the pawn with no opposing pawn. If you advance the other pawns, the candidate may become a backward pawn and will be harder to advance because of the weak square in front of it.
Reasons to blockade a passed pawn with pieces
- Lust to expand cause the awakening of the men in the rear therefore the passed pawn must be kept under lock and key.
- Immunity of the blockading piece from attacks from the front
- Crippling effect of the blockade
Choice of blockading piece
- Elasticity
- Threats it can deliver
Elasticity of the blockading piece
- Other pieces can look after the blockading square
- The blockading square is in the center
- The piece can return if the pawn advances further
To play against the blockader the same principles as with protected pawns as decribed in open files can be used, exchanging, driving away, attack with mulitple pieces and transfer of attack to the cramped defending pieces
There is a lot of attention to passed pawns in the endgame in this chapter, you can play through the examples, also this is covered in step 5.
Reasons to exchange
- To occupy or open a line without a loss of time
- To destroy a defender
- To not lose time retreating
Two kinds of Pins
- Partially pinned: can move along the line or diagonal of the pin.
- Completely pinned: cannot move at all, this is always the case with a knight
In a pin there are 3 actors
- The piece that is doing the pinning
- The piece that is pinned
- The piece behind the piece that is pinned, usually a powerful piece
A pinned piece
- Squares that are 'attacked' by the pinned piece are fair game
- Does not offer protection for other pieces
- Is a good target to attack because it is immobile and already attacked.
When a piece is pinned an attack by a pawn is decisive since flight is impossible, the piece creates the pressure by the pin and the pawn is the executioner.
- Challenging: Can cause weaknesses for example Bg5 on Nf3 chased away by h3 creates a target h3 which can be attacked by h4 g4-g5
- Ignoring: Can cause pawns to be broken up or doubled
- Unpinning: Placing a piece between
Discovered check closely relates to a pin, the difference is that the pinned piece is friendly instead of enemy, it becomes a discovered attack piece.
Pieces in a discovered attack
- The threatening check piece
- The piece between
- The threatened piece
The piece between resembles the little man who can do anything because he is protected by someone powerful, so all squares even those who are under heavy fire from your opponent are available to the piece which uncovers the check.
Discovered check makes double attacks possible.
A pawn chain are multiple pawns that are being blocked by pawns or pieces. The pawn chain is not about the number of links in the chain but if the oppenents pawns are restrained, it could also be achieved by pieces. The bottom link in the chain which supports all the other links will be called the base.
Example
white d4, e5, f2, g2, h2 black d5, e6, f7, g7, h7
White base is d4, black base is e6, f7 is not part of the chain.
The e5 pawn is advanced, demobilizes to form a wedge, removes f6 square from blacks knight and allows whites attacking forces to move more closely Qg4. The restricted kingside can also be attacked by Bd3 Nf3 and Bc1. After blacks f5 exf6 and white has an outpost on e5 and e6 is backward. A white pawn on f4 would have a negative effect blocking the bishops diagonal.
As well as cramping the kingside e5 has the plan f2-f4-f5 and attack e6, the base of the chain.
Possible results of this attack:
- Black surrenders the base of the chain by e6xf5, the pawn on e5 becomes mobile because it can move forward now the e6 pawn is gone.
- White builds a wedge by f6, cramps blacks position.
- White takes f5xe6, opens the f file, the blockaded object of attack e6 can be attacked with a flanking manouvre by the rook.
- Opposing base pawn fixed on it's square should be attacked by multiple pieces, the attacking pieces should be placed more agressively.
- Opponent will have difficulty developing, lesser elasticity and manouvrebility
- Maintain pressue until you get a new weaknesses
- Change the focus of attack to the new weaknesses
The goal in the endgame is a direct and real seizure of the object of attack, in the middlegame the goal is only help to create indirect advantages.
Transfer of attack To change the base of the pawn chain to another for example when there a white c4, d5, e4, f3 vs black c7, d6, e5, f5. When e4 is very well guarded and after 0-0 black can by playing f4 transfer the base of the white chain from e4 to f3. f3 will be a weaker base because it is less guarded and the white king is close.
Blocking a chain with pieces Nimzowitsch also gives an example where he gives up his own base of the chain d4 but replaces it with a piece and blocks black d5,e6 with pieces, this is possible because blacks c and f pawns are gone.
Most endgame knowledge you can find in step 5 also, best is to play through the endgame examples in the my system book throughout all the chapters and do some tactical excersize in step 4 and 5. There is also seperate chapter elements of endgame strategy Dont waste time on other endgame books, most are a waist of time on elementary endgame techniques like K+Q vs K+R.
A typical widespread misconception is that every move must immidiately achieve something, an amateur looks for moves which threaten something or parry a threat. and neglects all other possible moves, such as waiting moves or moves to reposition his pieces. The question is which moves are intended to consolidate our position and bring out own pieces in contact with squares that are strategically important to us ( stuggle against freeing moves and over protection ). When a positional player plays against a purely combinative player who is attacking violently is surprised by a move which brings it's own pieces in contact with a key square and this contact turns out to be miraculous with the result that the position is cleared up and the attack grinds to a halt. So don't always look for an attack, consolodating moves which meet the demands of the position are far more frequently what should be played.
- Compact double pawns has an adjacent pawn
- Isolated double pawns are Isolated
The white a2 c2 c3 d5 e4 vs black e5 d6 c7 b7 a7. Because of the doubled pawn the advance c4 c5 is easily blocked by b6. Black has the option to play c6 at anytime and force exchange on d5, the white complex is the strongest if the d pawn would still be on d4.
An isolated queens pawn is the complex white a2, b2, d4, f2, g2, h2. black a7, b7, e6, f7, g7, h7.
Strengths in the middlegame
- The outposts c5 and e5 outpost for white outweigh d5 for black
- The ability to 'expand' d4 d5
- Diagonals for white d3-h7 and g5-f6 put kingside pressure (after 0-0).
Weakness in the endgame
- It can't be defended by other pawns.
- Weak squares around the pawn.
Recommended a solid setup for white, strong support of d4: Be3 Qc2 Rc1 Rd1. Attack only when the opportunity presents itself.
White plans:
- Aim for d4-d5 exd5 and recapture with a piece, gives white a more centralized position
- Play on the c-file
Black plans
- Play for endgame
- Nd5xNc3 b2xc3 to fix c3 and lay siege to it. ( gives white 'the isolated pawn pair' )
- Attack on the d pawn and transfer of attack to the queen side
White a2, c3, d4 after black Nd5xNc3 b2xc3 in an isolated queen pawn position.
- White: Advance c3 to c4. Then it is no longer the passive isolated pawn pair but called 'hanging pawns' which is more threatening.
- Black: Completely block c3 and d4, white must defend c3 and d4 and has lack of space
The hanging pawns c4 d4 share some characteristcs with isolated pawn Pros:
- Outposts on c5 and e5
- The hanging pawns threaten c4-c5 and d4-d5
Cons:
- Have to be defended by pieces
- Weak squares around them
Strengths
- Range
- Can control multiple opposing passed pawns in an endgame
Weaknesses
- Cannot control space of the opposite color
- Assymetric position favors bishop because of possible passed pawn creation.
- Pawns on both wings favor bishops
- Smyslov rule, knight is stronger than bishop in position with fixed pawns.
- Energy balance, sleep, food, excersize.
- Strong in a kingside attack, one bishop forces a pawn to move and the other can attack the king on the freed diagonal
- Advance of a pawn mass supported by bishops cramps the opponents position because the opponents pawns can not oppose it.
- Cramping kinghts
Overprotection is the protection by pieces of a strategically important point to prevent the undermining of it. For example white a2, b2, d4, e5, f2, g2, h2 black a7, b7, d5, e6, f7, g7, h7. The pawn d4 could be overprotected.
Stragecially strong points to over protect.
- The base of a pawn chain
- Central squares
- An outpost
A pivot is a valauable square where different pieces can places to attack different points in a position the relation between square and the pieces is that the pieces are in contact with the square, the result of overprotecting.
Manoevering is possible when there is
- A presence of a pivot
- Multiple threats can be directed to a pawn weakness
- Multiple pawn weaknesses
Manoevers:
- By pivoting pieces on a strategically valuable square.
- Between attacking a pawn weakness from the file and from the 7th rank ( with R or Q ) ( via checks on the king )
- Between two pawn weaknesses.
- Look for multifunctional moves.
- No pieces in each others way.
Nimzowitsch on use of time: The game of chess is a struggle not a mathematical excersize. Don't always try to find the best move, try to win, dont waste 15 mins time looking for a forced mate in a +3 position. Improve the position instead.
- Know your openings in advance.
- Study typical middlegames arising from your opening so you know the plans
Ideas inspire calculation without them we would think like computers.
Main ingredients:
- Understanding
- Ideas and Pattern recognition
- Calculation
- Decision making
The proces
- During opponents move, look for weakness, ideas, be creative not too much concrete calculation, but look at potential tactical possibilities. Figure out what white and black want. You can walk around but keep looking/visualizing your own game.
- If you're opponents move is more or less forced 90% chance it will be played, you can already think like the the move has been played and decide on your own move, this will give you an edge on the clock.
- After opponents move, ask 2 questions what does it threaten, how does it change the position?
- Make inventory of moves to look at first, based on forced/forcing moves and your positional ideas.
- Gain understanding by not too deeply calculating some lines.
- Is one move clearly the best or are there multiple options? mayby other moves became interesting, during the calculation?
- Have a preference for good but low risk moves, positional moves are quicker and more reliable.
- Don't waste too much time looking over alternatives once you're convinced you found a good move, worth investing precise calculation.
- Only at the point you have decided you want to play the move, be precise in calculating your opponents possible reply's, are there forced moves, are there sacrifices? do you have a safetynet? if you run into complications? how bad is the worst case scenario?, you might want to go back and look at other moves, before spending too much time. It's difficult to go back to other moves after investing too much time, so then calculate the alternative first so you can instantly pick it after exhausting yourself on a difficult line.
Aagaard: Calculation is only a tool to aid the decision making process
You can spend extra time in a critical position where you feel there is a clear difference between the best move and the second best move, half a point or more in an equal position. These are often sharp tactical positions.
- Forcing move(s) exist which might lead to a decisive advantage
- Deciding whether or not to release pawn tension
- Deciding whether or not to allow trades of certain pieces
- When the opponent has a clear threat that needs to be dealt with in some way
- When a move in question is very committal and transforms the position in some way that can't be undone
'Do not analyse unnecesary tactics':'DAUT' that represents a conscious weighing of the balance between the timespent and the possibility of finding a better move.
- A pawn 1
- A pawn is worth 3 development moves during opening and early middelgame.
- 3.45 knight
- 3.55 bishop
- 5.25 rook ( is worth a little less in the beginning because there are still many pieces, little mobility )
- 10 queen
- 4 king, for it's mobility
- 0.5 bishop pair, the reason it is strong because 1 bishop has no opponent, pressure colors of complex of your unopposed bishop.
- Bishops suffer from center pawns
- Knights benefit from a closed position and outposts
- Rook pawn have slightly less value due to the influence on the center protecting of squares, ar ook pawn only attacks one square.
- Queen and knight is a better combination for an attack than queen and bishop for a kingside attack
- Rook is more valueable when you have one because the other rook does not get in the way
- Depending on the position strong advanced passed pawns can be worth 2 or even 3 on the 7th, so passed pawns must be pushed!
- Take a relaxing day before, no intensive excersize or chess study.
- Get a good sleep the knight before.
- Take a nap 1.5 hour before the game.
- Prepare for your opponent opening
- Phone rules
- Time controls
- If your opponent makes an illegal move, for example misses a check, stop the clock and call the TD, if you take the king instead your opponent can claim
- Official Fide rule, you're allowed one illegal move in a long game.
Eat 2 hours before the game
- Blueberries ( aids communication between brain cells )
- Fatty Fish ( omega 3, brain function )
- Eggs ( vitamin b and coline to create neurotransmitters )
- Fruits Kiwi, orange, tomatoes, strawberries ( vitamin c, for damaged brain cells )
- Leafy greens, brocoli spinach
- Walnuts ( omega 3, brain function )
- Pumpkin seeds ( antioxidants, megnesium, copper, zinc, iron ) nerve signalling learning and memory.
- Turmeric tea ( has been associated with improved memory, less depression, and the growth of new brain cells. )
10 to 20 mins before the game: coffee, caffeine peaks after 45 minutes. To have maximum effect and not impair sleep no other coffee consumption. No large starbucks just a regular single espresso or cappucino.
During game: Carlsen often chews gum. When you chew gum, it increases blood flow to your brain.
After the game: Low intake of Alcohol may cleanse the brain according to studies, it's ok to have a wine or a beer after the game.
Just walking
Music Stimulate cognitive function, because music can activate almost all brain regions and networks, it can help to keep a myriad of brain pathways and networks strong and recuce stress and increase positivity.
Recommended music before the game:
- Instrumental Rock
- Classical music
Listen to music before the game
Don't listen to music while playing because it will distract, songs with lyrics are especially distracting, ambient music is ok.
- Limit your intake of fluids two hours before the game
- Have a light breakfast
Only when you're hard is beating in your head. Push foot down on your big toes while playing they have reflexology points connected to the brain, should reduce stress instantly and bring clarity. you need soft shoes for this.
Addictive substances, are hyper-stimulating triggers that lead to unnaturally high levels of dopamine secretion. Negatively impacts the prefrontal cortex, struggle to regulate their emotions and impulses. Overstimulation of the reward circuitry. “When dopamine receptors drop after too much stimulation, the brain doesn’t respond as much, and we feel less reward from pleasure. The neurotransmitter dopamine, known to play a key role in motivated behavior, has a direct impact on memory formation in the hippocampus.
Advise from Anand: Look wat works for you, everyone is different. Actually playing is the best way to improve
- Music before the game.
- Mindfulness/Yoga for focus
- Dont get stressed/dissapointed when you missed something.
- Being creative, positive, curious, not caring about outcome but about having fun.
- Looking at the position objectively, what is good, what is bad, what should white try, what should black try? good pieces, bad pieces, pawn structure, breaks, sacrifice?
- Be economical with calculation, but not be lazy when you have to.
- No chess books/puzzles
- Actually playing with tablet against personality chess.com
- Getting a pi zero 2w for my Centaur
- Thoroughly analysing each game, what was going on in my head?
- Blitz games serve for opening practice and practice being sharp.
- Look for complication to beat careful and whishing to draw 1800s and 1900s
- Be honest to your self, don't pride yourself with a winning a game full of blunders from both side, don't torture yourself over a lost or drawn game with few mistakes.
- Ignore your opponents, they don't matter. Only what happens on the board matters.
- Acting out Kasparov style rudeness.
- Don't think about rating, having a creative style should cause the game to become complicated and then your level will prevail.
- Think about your move order to make your repotoire in a coherrent whole, get in to positions youre confortable with
- Look for possible transpositions from/to main lines for example Sicilian, could throw your off opponent
- Learn a foreign language. Learning a second (or a third) language challenges the brain in new ways and may even delay the onset of dementia, according to recent research. Say you learn the word for mother in Spanish is “madre.” Initially, you may have to concentrate to remember that word, but if you practice, over time, it becomes part of your vocabulary. That easy recall proves your brain has laid down a new pathway.
Quick tip: Pick one night a week to speak in another language (however poorly), or stay silent and communicate with sign language.
- Try a new activity. Engaging in mentally challenging activities helps build a reserve of brainpower you can draw on for years. The key, of course, is choosing unfamiliar activities that you enjoy. Play chess, take up gardening or learn to play a musical instrument. It doesn’t matter what you choose, provided the activity is new to you.
Quick tip: If you’re a whiz at crossword puzzles, do a word search activity instead. Comfortable with writing exercises? Try your hand at drawing or painting.
- Eat brain-boosting foods. Eating a diet rich in fruits, vegetables and whole grains, and low in saturated fat and sugar, can help protect brain networks. In fact, studies consistently show that eating a mix of nourishing foods—fruits, vegetables, nuts, fatty fish, and yes, even a daily glass of wine—sharpens your mind, builds new brain cells and fights off mental decline.
Quick tip: Keep a stash of trail mix in your pocketbook or glove box. The brain needs consistent fuel (at least every 3 to 5 hours) to function well.
- Exercise. Research consistently links physical exercise with brain benefits, particularly in the regions responsible for learning and memory. But don’t worry. You don’t have to spend 90 minutes in the gym to experience exercise’s mind-boosting effects. Even moderate exercise (say jogging, cycling or even walking) for about 30 minutes daily can get the blood flowing to your head.
Quick Tip: Preliminary research suggests the perks of physical activity are more pronounced when combined with a mental challenge. So things like taking a dance class, learning martial arts or practicing yoga may be especially beneficial.
- Get some sleep. Getting sufficient sleep is one of the best things you can do for your brain. While researchers aren’t entirely clear what happens in the mind when you’re snoozing, they do know that sleep is critical for the body and mind to function at their prime. Sleep not only reenergizes the body’s cells and clears out waste products from the brain, it also promotes learning and memory.
Quick tip: Strive to get 7 to 8 hours of sleep each night. Can’t manage to sleep that many hours in one stretch? Consider a daytime power nap.
- Stay on top of your health conditions. Just as your mind can help protect your body, keeping your body humming can protect your mind. Health conditions ranging from diabetes and high blood pressure to depression and hypothyroidism can impact how well your brain functions.
Quick tip: Protect your memory by following your doctor’s advice carefully, taking medications appropriately and reporting any changes in how your brain is functioning.
- Meditate. The brain needs time to restore itself and reflect. In fact, research links “thinking about not thinking” to a host of physical and mental health benefits. And emerging research suggests meditating regularly may even enhance your memory.
Quick tip: Take 10 to 15 minutes each day to quiet your mind and focus on only one thing: your breathing. Not only will you give your brain an opportunity to recharge, but the focused breaths will promote blood flow to it, too.
- Connect. Maintaining close relationships requires a certain level of brainpower. Not only do you have to think fast to engage in conversation, but resolving conflicts and debating current affairs flexes mental muscles as well. So it’s no wonder studies suggest that socially active seniors are less likely to develop Alzheimer’s disease than their wallflower counterparts.