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Backplate Heatsink Testing #94
MochaThunder
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I dont think you will have any negatives on the airflow, you will have slightly lower ram temps though, what you did cant hurt, this design doesn't need this, but you maye be able to tone down the fans a little and still get good cooling. I actually have a slab of 120x120x8mm Aluminium that I'm going to use on my next build instead of the clamping plate, I use the clamping plate as the drilling jig, I just want to see how good it can work with really high clamping pressure and no board flex at all. |
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For anyone looking for a Backplate Heatsink solution for the Redux case, I gave this a shot:
TL;DR: It didn't add as much improved cooling as I expected, however, my testing methods were not ideal and it may provide more than I realize. I tested before the GPU overclock and unlocked CUs. As mentioned before, this case was expertly designed and gets plenty of airflow over the back plate so this may not be entirely necessary but does provide me with a peace of mind.
Goal:
I wanted to add a heatsink to the backplate to improve cooling, but didn't want to disturb the 3d printed CPU clamp. I considered buying a larger heatsink and cutting it down then drinlling holes, but I feel the clamp likely focuses the pressure on the right place and I didn't want to change this.
Method:
I purchased this 150x93x15mm heatsink from Amazon. It's also available on AliExpress, but the price difference is neglibile and I'm located in the US so I didn't want to wait for aliexpress shipping times.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FZR2STBL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I marked the back of where I would cut the heatsink making sure to note the increased height of the split hex panel since I printed the side panels on a printed under 300mm x 300mm. I used an exacto knife to cut the thermal adhesive pad on the back to help guide the Jigsaw (not sure if this is necessary or not but made me feel better).
I used a Jigsaw with a T-Shank specifically for cutting metal. This specific T-Shank set is what I used:
www.amazon.com/dp/B09GYR9YSM
The Jigsaw cut through the heatsink much easier than I anticipated. I made sure to cut the tips off the newly cut heatsink triangles so they will fit closer to the center of the CPU clamp. I blew and brushed the metal dust off the heatsink to keep any from getting on the board. Then I peeled the sticker and stuck each heatsink triangle to the backplate, holding pressure for about 30 seconds.
Testing
I then tested the BC250 running Furmark on the 1080p preset before and after the heatsinks.
Before: Score of 7049
After: Score of 8074
The difference was negligible, but this was before I overclocked the board and unlocked all 40 CUs. It was fully stock. I wish I would've done a before and after Furmark AFTER the overclock/unlock, but alas, I didn't. I also wish I wouldve ran a longer Furmark benchmark.
Notes
In my case, the part of the heatsink closest to the edge mildly touches the hex panel when screwed in, but it doesn't impact screwing it together. Everywhere else, there is a couple mm gap.
Overall, I'm glad I did it and I would do it again. I already had a Jig Saw and the metal cutting T-Shanks, so the only cost was the heatsink itself and I'm down to take a $12 risk. I do wonder if it had a negative impact on airflow, but holding my hand across the backplate side it still feels like it gets plenty of airflow and feels mostly unchanged from before in my unscientific test.
Good luck!
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