Wiring diagram #1
Comments
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The RF300 has only 2 leads, one + and the pther ground but you must not connect directly +12 to the + lead. Put a resistor between so the tension in the RF300 may be modulated. I pass this signal through a capacitor to remove the dc voltage and send the resulting signal to an operational Amplifier. probably a voltage follower is enough but a bit of amplification may be good. Will look at the schema but i was quite straighforward. Do you have access to an Oscilloscope?. Was invaluable. |
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Thanks @fgorina, yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.
I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct? Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work. Just so I understand, you connect like this: How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look. When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp. Thanks again, |
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Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.
After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.
It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.
It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.
I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!
…On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn ***@***.***> wrote:
Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.
I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.
https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/
lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)
image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)
image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)
I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?
Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.
Just so I understand, you connect like this:
[12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]
[GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]
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[ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +
How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.
When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.
Thanks again,
Trevor
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There is a README in the test folder, no Idea how it arrived there, that explains a bit more
…On Oct 10 2024, at 6:09 PM, Paco Gorina ***@***.***> wrote:
Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.
After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.
It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.
It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.
I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!
On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn ***@***.***> wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.
>
> I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.
>
> https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/
>
>
> lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)
>
> image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)
>
> image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)
>
> I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?
>
> Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.
>
> Just so I understand, you connect like this:
>
>
>
>
>
> [12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]
>
>
>
>
> [GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]
>
>
>
> |
>
>
>
> [ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +
>
>
>
> How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.
>
> When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.
>
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Trevor
>
>
>
> —
>
> Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (#1 (comment)), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).
>
> You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
>
>
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I found this file. Hope it works
…On Oct 10 2024, at 6:12 PM, Paco Gorina ***@***.***> wrote:
There is a README in the test folder, no Idea how it arrived there, that explains a bit more
On Oct 10 2024, at 6:09 PM, Paco Gorina ***@***.***> wrote:
>
> Signal may be ok but you will need to play with the resistor and capacitors.
>
> After processing the signal with the Op I put a "fast" optocoupler so I have nothing bad entering the ESP.
>
>
>
> It works quite well. Also the Ootpcoupler finish to give a very good signal to measure the frequency.
>
>
>
> It is better to asses the "central" ffrequency with the oscilloscope. My documentation said one thing and measured was another.
>
>
>
> I process convert the output frequency to a duty cycle with the pwm and filter to get a voltage to the PyPilot!!!
>
>
>
> On Oct 10 2024, at 5:18 PM, Trevor Flynn ***@***.***> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks @fgorina (https://github.com/fgorina), yeah I have a Siglent SDS2104X Plus.
> >
> > I have a LF3000, which is the outboard version of the RF300.
> >
> > https://www.simrad-yachting.com/simrad/type/autopilots/drive-units/lf3000/
> >
> >
> > lf3000mk2_revA.pdf (https://github.com/user-attachments/files/17330226/lf3000mk2_revA.pdf)
> >
> > image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/b71cfc93-5b0b-4c6e-b641-c47912f214c6)
> >
> > image.png (view on web) (https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/cb9e52a6-d880-40a2-9e4a-b9f50b34c949)
> >
> > I'm thinking that the interface box must be specific to the LF3000 (does the RF300 have one?). So I would connect the RF+ and RF- signals that are the output of the interface box, correct?
> >
> > Thanks for the help on this. I was using the SeaStar universal SmartStick, but I have had two of them fail, they seem to last from 6 months to a year. When calling SeaStar, they have absolutely no one that can help, and they wont warranty them. I have a brand new LF3000, and it looks like with your setup that it would work.
> >
> > Just so I understand, you connect like this:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [12V+] -> [Resistor] -> [RF+]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [GND] <----------------------------+- [RF-]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > |
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [ESP32] <- [Amp] <- [Capacitor] <- +
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > How clean is the signal? I'll put my scope on it when I get home and look.
> >
> > When you have time, I am interested to know what you used for the resistor, cap, and how you setup the amp.
> >
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Trevor
> >
> >
> >
> > —
> >
> > Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (#1 (comment)), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU2W4NGQJE57KKSNABDZ22LF3AVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBVGQYTKNBYGM).
> >
> > You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
> >
> >
>
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Thanks for the help. If you tried to attach a file I don't think it came through. I read the README in the test folder. I'm going to try to get this setup and working. What opamp did you use? Just wondering on a working setup for it. I assume you are using a ceramic cap? What are good starting values for the resistor and cap? |
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1.- Input resistor about 200/300 ophms
2.- Input Filter probably 10nf and 10k
3.- Output filter 2 low pass filters, r 10k, c 10nf
4.- OP LM358
5.- Optocoupler yes the one you reference seems fine. Must accept the abour 2K frequency
6.- Yes ceramic caps
Hope the schema arrives!!!!
…On Oct 10 2024, at 10:54 PM, Trevor Flynn ***@***.***> wrote:
Thanks for the help. If you tried to attach a file I don't think it came through. I read the README in the test folder. I'm going to try to get this setup and working. What opamp did you use? Just wondering on a working setup for it.
I'll order some of these optoisolators: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/onsemi/H11L1M/284866
I assume you are using a ceramic cap? What are good starting values for the resistor and cap?
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You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
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Thank you for the values. Unfortunately, I do not think attachments to email responses make it to the github issue. Thanks again for the help! |
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I will try to put the schme in Github
…On Oct 11 2024, at 7:44 PM, Trevor Flynn ***@***.***> wrote:
Thank you for the values. Unfortunately, I do not think attachments to email responses make it to the github issue.
I think I understand the setup though, thank you for the help.
Next time I am home I'll setup a test. Currently, I'll be traveling for the next few weeks (Seems like all I ever do anymore is travel...)
Thanks again for the help!
—
Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub (#1 (comment)), or unsubscribe (https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AACXYU5CPVPR5TG34FIDPQ3Z3AFBPAVCNFSM6AAAAABPCDWMWKVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43OSLTON2WKQ3PNVWWK3TUHMZDIMBXHA3DSOJTG4).
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
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I see the diagram. I think I understand the circuit. I will take some time and play with it once I am done traveling. |
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Hello, do you have an example diagram for the wiring, I'm very interested in getting this working.
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