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          A Revised And Illustrated Treatise On Grain Stacking

                                 GIVING

          _Instructions how to Properly Stack Bound Grain so as
             to Preserve, in the best possible manner, for
                         THRESHING and MARKET._

                               ILLUSTRATED

    _So as to Furnish a Comprehensive View of the Theoretical Parts_


                                  BY
                           JOHN N. DeLAMATER,
                              NORWALK, OHIO
                                  1884.


                            Copyright 1884 by

                           JOHN N. DeLAMATER,

                          All Rights Reserved.


                      THE NORWALK CHRONICLE PRINT.




PREFACE.


So far as I am aware, this is an untried field of labor--a work which I
have had under consideration for the last fifteen years; during which
time the closest attention has been given to details of building, and
careful observations made on results, when the stacks were being taken
down.
                                                     JOHN N. DeLAMATER.




TREATISE ON GRAIN STACKING.


PLACING FOUNDATION.

If convenient, make a foundation of rails, by placing three rails about
four and one-half feet apart and parallel, and then add half or two
thirds the length of a rail to each, and cover by laying rails
crossways, and finish by laying a large rail or post in the center
lengthways.

This will form a foundation large enough for ten or twelve large loads.
If rails, poles or boards cannot be had for an entire foundation,
endeavor to get something to support the heads of a few center sheaves;
for if sheaves are set on end to commence a stack, the middle is apt to
settle too much.


COMMENCING TO BUILD.

On the rail foundation, lay around the center in the form of an ellipse,
with the heads lapping well across the center rail; lap half and
continue to lay towards the outside until foundation is covered. Now
commence at the outside and lay a course around, neither laying out or
drawing in, except to correct any little error that may occur in the
elliptical form of the stack; complete the courses to the center, but
don't fill the middle too full; if the outside is lower than the middle,
lay a double course around outside; keep your stack _flat_--full as high
at outside as center; build the first load straight up, neither laying
out or drawing in, if the stack is to contain ten or twelve loads; if
eight or nine, lay the last course out a little.


LAYING OUT.

If the stack is flat and as near an ellipse as the eye can judge, laying
out and keeping the stack properly balanced will be very easy. Drive
alternate loads on opposite sides of the stack; this will help to keep
the stack properly balanced. If the eye detects a place that seems to be
lower than the general level, it will be found that it was caused by
laying out more there than at other points; to remedy this defect, draw
in the next outside course at the low point, six, eight or ten inches,
according to the depression. The greater the depression, the more it
should be drawn in, and the next inside course at the low point should
be shoved out nearly to the buts of the outside course, then continue to
build as though nothing had happened. If a high place should be
observed, the next outside course should be laid farther out, and inside
course at this point drawn well in.

Glance frequently over the stack and see if the outside presents the
appearance of an ellipse, and keep a sharp lookout for high and low
spots, for they will throw the stack out of balance. If the middle is
too full, the outside will slip out, and an undesirable job of propping
will begin. Put in two-thirds of what is intended for the stack before
commencing to draw in.

Drive so as to leave a little space between load and stack. Don't let a
stack stand over night at this stage if it can be avoided, but put on
the next two loads as quickly as possible, for the outside of the stack
will settle rapidly.


FILLING THE MIDDLE.

Lay a tier of bundles through the central part half the length of the
stack, alternating heads and buts, then lay a course around with the
heads lapping across the middle tier; now another tier through the
center, and two courses around it; then another tier at center and
courses around, until the center is three or four feet higher than the
outside, depending on size of the stack, and the last course laid laps
half way from head to band on the outside course of the stack. It will
be seen that while building the main part of the stack, the courses were
laid from outside to center, and while filling the middle or putting in
the stuffing, the courses are laid from center towards outside. Now
commence outside, lay a course, heads out, half way from band to but on
outside course; in small stacks omit last instruction; then turn buts
out, lap half and lay to center; then lay a course around outside,
neither laying out or drawing in.

Now comes a point that should not be overlooked: lay a course, buts out,
lapping half way from heads to band on outside course; then lap half and
lay to center.

The reason for laying the buts of second course half way from heads to
band is to give the buts of the next outside course above a chance to
rest firmly on the course below, leaving no unoccupied space; if the
buts of second course were laid out to the band of outside course, then
the next outside course above, being drawn in, would rest one-third of
the way from band to but, on the buts of the course below, leaving a
space for rain to drive in and wet the stack. Draw in outside course
rapidly; lay buts of second course half way from head to band on outside
course as long as stack top is large enough; keep middle well piled up.

A stack can be drawn in very rapidly, without danger of taking in water
from a protracted rain, even if the outside of the stack grows green, no
sheaf will be found wet above the band, and the middle of stack dry, for
the buts of outside course will form a thatch roof to protect the stack.

The placing of a few top bundles is a matter of small importance. If a
stack has been properly built it will receive but little injury if top
bundles should blow off. A strand or two of wire, with sticks or stones
at the ends to weight them down, will usually hold the top in place.


RECAPITULATION.

The first load being built straight up and flat on top forms a firm and
secure base on which to build the upper structure.

LAYING OUT OR PUTTING IN THE BULGE.--This is the most important part of
the stack, for it contains the greater part of the grain; by laying out
and keeping the stack _flat_, the work can be done rapidly, and when the
stack settles the buts will hang down, for there is nothing to hold them
up.

Filling the middle corresponds to putting rafters on a building to
support the roof.


SUGGESTIONS.

I have found in the course of a long experience, that a foundation
eleven or twelve feet wide and eighteen or twenty feet long, and a stack
built in the form of an ellipse, and so as to contain ten or twelve
large loads, to be the most convenient and economical. Grain can be put
into a stack of this size much more rapidly than in small stacks. If a
stack is built much larger it will require more labor to pass the
bundles across the stack, and will have to be carried much higher before
it is topped out, which takes time and hard work.

The elliptical form I have found the best; with a load driven to the
side of the stack, the pitcher is never very far from the stacker; the
stack is easily kept balanced, and at threshing time the grain is
readily got to the machine. In a round stack of the same size, the
stacker gets farther away from the pitcher, and it requires more skill
to keep a round stack properly balanced; but if a round stack, after it
is finished and settled, looks like an egg standing erect on the large
end, that is good enough; it will not take water, and looks well, too.
A square stack, or one with corners, is easily kept balanced, but in
turning the corners there is too much fullness at the heads of the
bundles, and when the stack settles there will usually be a sag on each
side to catch water.

Two stakes, one eight and the other ten rods away, and in line with the
center of foundation, will sometimes assist the stacker in keeping his
stack well balanced, for at a glance he can tell whether the center is
in line with the stakes. A man may build, as his fancy dictates, either
round, elliptical or square, but in _all_, the same general principles
_must_ be observed--the lower part of the stack built straight up; put
in a bulge which settles down around and nearly conceals the lower part,
leaving the center of the bulge high; filling the middle to support the
center of the top. These are the principles on which good stacking
depends. If a man gets them well fixed in his mind and discards the idea
that he must keep the middle full from the ground up, he will have but
little damaged grain, even in the very worst of seasons. Very small
stacks should be built like ordinary stack tops.

A boy to hand bundles is usually more damage than good until a stack is
half built, and then he should not be allowed to stand on outside
course. If practical, drive alternate loads on opposite sides of the
stack; this is very desirable, but if, from the nature of surroundings,
it is necessary to drive all on one side, draw the top of the stack over
a foot or two towards the side where the unloading is done, and keep it
a little the lowest; the opposite side will settle considerably the
most, which will leave the stack straight up.


FANCY STACKING.

For a pyramid stack, build as usual up to within two or three rounds of
where drawing in commences, then draw in a little at center of sides and
ends to bring the curves to straight lines; keep the corners well out,
observing the form of a rectangle in filling the middle, and finish to
top.

For a Gothic stack, build an ordinary one until commencing to draw in,
then draw in the oval corners and build center of sides and ends
straight up. For an X stack draw in sides and ends; build corners
straight up. These stacks look very ornamental on a premium farm and
will save well, but take more time to build than ordinary stack tops.


SAMPLE STACK.

With some, the idea seems to prevail, that the middle of the stack
should be kept full from the ground up. With the center high enough to
protect the stack after it is settled, it is impossible to lay out or
even build straight up, for the outside sheaves are constantly slipping
out, and the process of building rendered slow and tiresome, and when
the stack is completed and settled, it will usually be found that the
center has gone down so much and the outside so little, that the buts of
the sheaves stick up and form excellent conductors to wet the stack.

Usually at harvest the country is full of good stackers, and if, between
that time and threshing, there is little or no rain, they live through
and there is a good supply next year; but if, between stacking and
threshing, a protracted rain occurs, vast multitudes are drowned, so
that, at threshing time, but few good stackers are found alive.







End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Revised and Illustrated Treatise On
Grain Stacking, by John N. DeLamater

*** 