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                        THE EXPERT WAITRESS

                         _A MANUAL FOR THE
                 PANTRY, KITCHEN, AND DINING-ROOM_

                                 BY
                      ANNE FRANCES SPRINGSTEED

                           [Illustration]

                              NEW YORK
                    HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS




               Copyright, 1894, by HARPER & BROTHERS.

                       _All rights reserved._




                                 TO

                         THE COLUMBIA CLUB

                                 OF

                           WORKING GIRLS

                          THIS LITTLE BOOK

                          Is Dedicated by

                             THE AUTHOR




                              PREFACE


The papers entitled “The Expert Waitress” are intended rather as a
working model than as a set of rules from which there is no appeal. It
is recognized that tastes and opinions vary as much as do the various
dining-rooms in which they are expressed. In writing these papers, one
idea has been kept in mind: No rule has been laid down that has not a
good reason for its existence.

Some things, desirable in themselves, have been omitted because they
are not possible to one pair of hands and feet, even when guided by a
well-regulated brain.




                              CONTENTS


                                                       PAGE

          BREAKFAST                                       1

          LUNCHEON                                       14

          DINNER                                         22

          SUPPER                                         32

          AFTERNOON TEA                                  39

          PIC-NIC AND TRAVELLING LUNCHEONS               42

          CARE OF DINING-ROOM                            44

          CARE OF PANTRY                                 49

          WASHING DISHES                                 53

          CARE OF SILVER, ETC.                           59

          LAMPS                                          61

          CARVING                                        65

          CARE OF CARVERS                                72

          GENERAL RULES                                  73

          MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS                     77

          USEFUL SUGGESTIONS                             92

          IN THE INVALID’S ROOM                          99

          TRUTHFULNESS IN THE WAITRESS                  106

          ADAPTABILITY                                  113

          A SERVANT’S CONTRACT                          121




                             Breakfast                                       1


                             _Oranges._
                     _Pearled Oats with Cream._
               _Lamb Chops._      _Creamed Potatoes._
                    _Bread._      _Hot Muffins._
                             _Butter._
                       _Coffee._      _Milk._
                        _Cream or Hot Milk._

The breakfast given is a usual one in many households. Learn to serve
this properly, and it will be easy to make changes where ideas vary as
to comfort and convenience.

To serve the breakfast given there will be needed: Napkins, tumblers,
salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons, butter plate and knife,
bread-and-butter plates, bread plate, bread knife, bread board, muffin
dish, water pitcher, milk pitcher, trays.
                                                                             2
  +-----------+-------------------+---------------+------------------------+
  | FRUIT.    | Fruit dish.       | Fruit knives. |                        |
  |           | Finger bowl.      | Fruit plates. | Fruit spoons.          |
  |           | Doilies.          |               |                        |
  |-----------|-------------------|---------------|------------------------|
  | PEARLED   | Covered dish.     | Cereal dishes | Tablespoons.           |
  | OATS.     | Cream jugs.       | on plates.    | Dessertspoons.         |
  |           | Sugar bowl.       |               |                        |
  |-----------|-------------------|---------------|------------------------|
  | CHOPS AND | Platter.          |               | Small carver and fork. |
  | POTATOES. | Tray for platter. | Breakfast     | Two tablespoons.       |
  |           | Covered dish.     | plates.       | Breakfast knives.      |
  |           |                   |               | Breakfast forks.       |
  |-----------|-------------------|---------------|------------------------|
  | COFFEE.   | Hot-water kettle. |               |                        |
  |           | Coffee pot and    | Coffee cups   | Sugar tongs.           |
  |           | stand and small   | and saucers.  | Teaspoons.             |
  |           | strainer.         |               | Sugarspoons.           |
  |           | Hot-milk pitcher  |               |                        |
  |           | (covered) and     |               |                        |
  |           | stand.            |               |                        |
  |           | Cream jug.        |               |                        |
  |           | Sugar bowl.       |               |                        |
  |           | Slop bowl.        |               |                        |
  +-----------+-------------------+---------------+------------------------+

The dish of fruit is to stand in the centre of the table. Place a salt
cup, with its spoon, and a pepper box for the use of every two people.
Put for each person a fruit plate, on which is a fruit doily, and a
finger bowl one third full of water. On the plate at the right of the
bowl lay a silver fruit knife, on the left of the plate a fruit spoon.
At the right of each plate place a tumbler for water and another for
milk. At the left put a little plate for bread, butter, and hot
muffins. On the table, at the right of the plates, lay a breakfast           3
knife, with the sharp edge of the blade turned towards the plate, a
silver knife for butter, and a dessertspoon, with bowl turned up. At
the left lay a breakfast fork, with the tines turned up, and a napkin.

If the polished table, without a cloth, is preferred for breakfast, it
will be necessary to take thought about hot dishes, none of which must
come in direct contact with the table. Either they must be served from
a side-table, or the polished table must be in some way protected.
Table mats have been discarded by many ladies because they are so
often merely useful without being ornamental.

Among the handsomest things with which to replace table mats are
hand-painted trays, set in rims of split bamboo. The rim protects the
table, and prevents the platter from sliding. These should be handled
with great care, on account of their value. With one of these trays at
the foot of the table, the fruit in the centre, and the coffee service
at the head, all has a finished appearance when breakfast is served.         4

With the placing of the coffee service at the head of the table the
difficulty of heat again presents itself, and this time cannot be
obviated by the side-table. The hot-water kettle is taken care of by
its own lamp-stand; but the coffee-pot and hot-milk jug still remain.
These must be provided for according to their character. If of silver,
they should rest on silver stands; if of china, then on china stands;
the purpose being to make the stand appear like a part of that which
rests upon it, and so be as unnoticeable as possible.

The expert waitress will arrange her sideboard and side-table with as
much care as she does the table itself. These two accessories should
hold everything that may, can, or shall be needed. The sideboard may
be left uncovered if the table is uncovered. If the table is draped, a
suitable cloth must be laid on the sideboard. A side-table should
always be draped. Use this for hot dishes without stands. The                5
sideboard should hold in readiness extra plates, knives, forks,
spoons, tumblers and napkins, fine sugar for the pearled oats, a
pitcher of water, and a pitcher of milk.

On the side-table should be plenty of space for whatever hot dishes
are to be placed upon it, including the muffin dish, a silver tray for
placing and removing everything that is not soiled; another tray,
either of silver or carved wood, for removing that which is soiled, a
small napkin for taking up quickly anything that may be spilled, and a
large napkin or neat towel to be used in an emergency, such as the
accidental overturning of a glass of milk or a cup of coffee.

When she thinks that all is ready, the waitress should ask and answer
every one of these questions:

Does the table need anything more?

Is the sideboard perfectly arranged?

Is there plenty of room on the side-table?

Are the chairs properly placed?

Are the morning papers where they should be?                                 6

Are any doors unnecessarily open?

Is there a drawer that is not tightly closed?

Has any dust been overlooked in the dining-room?

Two minutes before the breakfast hour begin to fill the glasses with
water. This will be finished in time, and the water will be cool and
fresh.

As to the time of placing butter upon the table, a waitress must be
guided by her judgment. In winter, when butter is very hard, it may be
put on sooner than in summer, when it should be kept cool until
needed.

Bread must be always freshly cut.

When the family are seated at the table, place the fruit dish on a
tray and hand it to the lady of the house, standing at her left side.
Offer to each person, always at the left.

When the fruit has been served, see if any one has emptied his glass
of water. Never, under any circumstances, let any one ask for a glass        7
of water. Fill it before he can ask. If carafes are used, and each one
fills his own glass, after it has been once emptied, then keep watch
of ice, and offer when it is needed.

When the fruit course is finished, remove everything pertaining to it.
Take first the fruit dish, then, in each hand, a plate with its
finger-bowl, knife, and spoon, and place quietly and quickly in the
pantry until all are removed. If a knife, only, has been used, do not
leave the fruit spoon because it is clean, but take it away with the
other things. If any fruit juice has, by chance, found its way to the
polished table, take it up so deftly with a small napkin that no one
is aware of it.

When the fruit is removed, bring the dish of pearled oats and place on
the tray at the foot of the table. Lay a tablespoon at the right of
the dish. Place before each person a cereal dish on a plate. Remove
the cover of the pearled oats to the side-table. Place the dish on the
tray, put the spoon in the dish, and offer first to the lady of the
house, standing at her left. Offer to each person from the left. Then        8
pass the sugar and cream.

When the cereal course is finished, take the cereal dish, with its
tray, and place it on the side-table. Cover the dish. Take in each
hand a cereal dish and plate, until all are removed to the pantry.

For the meat course see that the plates are warm, but not hot enough
to mar the polish of the table. Where a cloth is used they may be
hotter. Place a tray for the hot platter at the foot of the table, and
stand the platter of chops on it. Lay a small carving-knife and
tablespoon at the right of the platter, and a small carving-fork at
its left. Place a pile of warmed plates in front of the platter.

When a chop has been served, take the plate in the right hand, place
it on the tray, and take it to the lady of the house. Serve, first,
all on one side of the table, then all on the other side. There is no
choice in this service, for the carver asks each one if he may serve
them. Go to the _right_ of the person served and place the plate, instead    9
of having it taken from the tray at the left.

Take the potato dish from the side-table, uncover and place on the
tray; put a tablespoon in the dish and pass. Serve each person from
the left.

Place a platter of plain bread on the table, and then pass the hot
muffins. If any one does not care for hot bread he may decline,
because he knows that the cold bread is at hand.

Pass the butter and the bread.

Watch the water tumblers and fill when empty. Offer milk.

When the lady of the house begins to pour the coffee, take a cup as it
is filled and move quickly to the right of the person for whom it is
intended. Set the cup down. There is no choice about this. Each cup is
made to suit the individual taste of the one to whom it is sent.

When the coffee is served, look about to see what may be needed at any
part of the table. Do not offer milk to one whose glass is still            10
filled, or muffins to one who has an untouched muffin on his plate. Do
not leave the breakfast-room until quite sure that everything that
there is to do has been finished.

The breakfast described is served to a family of regular people, all
of whom sit down at the same time, and it does not take any great
amount of “mother wit” to serve it properly.

What really tests the skill of a waitress is to serve a breakfast in
the manner necessary in many families.

There is a regular breakfast hour at which three or four of the family
are prompt; but one of the gentlemen, perhaps, has to breakfast an
hour earlier in order to get to business in time, while others, whose
studies or pleasures keep them late at night, come afterwards.

To make every one comfortable is not easy, but it is quite possible.
There must be no hurry; that is, no appearance of haste; but a
waitress must move quickly to accomplish what is needed. If the
butler’s pantry has a gas stove, her task will be much simplified.          11
The mistress of a household who breakfast in this manner will be glad
to furnish her pantry with every convenience necessary for the comfort
of her family. There will be coffee-pots of the sizes needed, a jar of
freshly ground coffee, and a kettle the right size for the gas stove,
so as to have freshly boiled water whenever it is needed. A waitress
who is disposed to make the most of these conveniences can save both
herself and others great annoyance.

If coffee is made only in the kitchen, then the side-table will have
the proper appliances for keeping coffee and milk at the required
temperature. A lamp under a coffee urn soon destroys the flavor of
fine coffee, but a lamp under a hot-water tray will do no harm. If
this tray is a simple flat one, it will be of little use. It must be
one with rings of metal, one or more of which may be removed at a
time, according to the size of the coffee-pot or milk jug which is to
be surrounded by the heat. These simple trays are made of planished tin.    12
In the hands of an ignorant maid they are utterly useless. In careful
hands they are a great aid and comfort in the breakfast-room.

A breakfast served in this way gives the following rules:

I--A dining-room must be in perfect order before breakfast is served.

II--A waitress is responsible for the heat of the dishes after they
come from the kitchen. If too hot, she must cool them; if not hot
enough, she must send them back.

III--Coffee and hot milk must be kept at the right temperature to
preserve their best flavor.

IV--Water must be fresh and cool.

V--Butter must not be served so soon as to become soft and oily.

VI--Bread must be freshly cut.

VII--Glasses must be kept filled.

VIII--Nothing but an unexpected extra should ever be asked for.

IX--Everything must be _passed_ at the left, _placed_ at the right.         13

X--In clearing the table, food must be first removed; then soiled
china, glass, silver, and cutlery; then clean china, glass, silver,
and cutlery; then crumbs.

XI--Everything relating to one course must be removed before serving
another course.




                              Luncheon                                      14


                         _Panned Oysters._
                            _Beefsteak._
                   _Claret._      _Apollinaris._
             _Spaghetti._      _French Fried Potatoes._
                            _Gherkins._
                      _Bread._      _Butter._
                           _Fruit Tarts._
                              _Cocoa._

Centre-piece of flowers, ferns, or confections, napkins, tumblers,
claret glasses, bread-and-butter plates, butter plate and knife, bread
plate, board and knife, salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons, ice
pitcher, trays.

A dining-room, aired for a few minutes after breakfast, will be fresh
for luncheon; but the thermometer should be consulted to see whether
the mercury is too high or too low.
                                                                            15
  +-----------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | OYSTERS.  |  Cracker plate.    | Oyster dishes on | Small soup spoons. |
  |           |                    |     plates.      |                    |
  +-----------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | BEEFSTEAK,|                    |                  | Small carver and   |
  | ETC.      | Platter and tray.  |                  |       fork.        |
  |           |    Two covered     | Luncheon plates. |   Gravy spoon.     |
  |           | vegetable dishes.  |                  | Med’m steel knives.|
  |           |                    |                  |   ”   silver   ”   |
  |           |                    |                  |   ”    ”     forks.|
  +-----------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | TARTS.    | Flat-dish doilies. | Dessert plates.  |     Pie knife.     |
  |           |   Finger bowls.    |                  |   Dessert forks.   |
  +-----------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | COCOA.    |   Cocoa pitcher,   |                  |                    |
  |           |   with cover and   | Cups and saucers.|     Teaspoons.     |
  |           |      stand.        |                  |    Sugar tongs.    |
  |           |    Sugar bowl.     |                  |                    |
  +-----------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+

Dust your sideboard, and any other article of furniture that has lost
its fresh look since breakfast.

Make the table the proper size, always allowing an extra place for a
guest.

If the polished table is preferred, see that there is no spot on it
and wipe with a soft cloth.

If a table-cloth is to be used, first lay the flannel cloth without
crease or wrinkle; then lay the linen cloth perfectly smooth and even.

In the centre of the table place a vase of flowers, a pot of ferns, or      16
a glass plate with crystallized ginger or bonbons.

At the foot of the table place a tray for the beefsteak platter, and
lay the gravy spoon at the right of it.

At the head of the table place a stand for the cocoa pitcher, sugar
bowl, with tongs, cups, saucers, and teaspoons.

If carafes are used, place one for the use of every two people, and a
salt cup and pepper box for every two persons, unless the individual
salts are preferred.

Place a small luncheon plate for each person. At the right lay a
luncheon knife, with the sharp edge turned towards the plate, a knife
for butter, a small soup spoon for oysters, a tumbler for water,
another for Apollinaris, and a glass for claret. At the left lay a
luncheon fork, with the tines turned up, a bread-and-butter plate, and
a napkin.

Place your dessert plates, each with its fork, on the sideboard. On
the sideboard have a water pitcher, extra glasses, knives, forks, and       17
spoons. Have on the sideboard, or at hand in the pantry, everything
that may be asked for, as fine sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce,
mixed mustard, and red and white pepper.

See that the right platter is being heated for the beefsteak, and be
sure that the tray corresponds in size.

Fill the water pitcher, and have an extra pitcher of filtered water,
or bowl of ice, in your pantry.

Cut the bread, and leave a loaf lying on the bread board in the
pantry, with the bread knife by the side of it.

See that the oyster dishes are placed to heat in time to be very hot
indeed.

See that the luncheon plates are warm, but not too hot to mar the
polish of the table; if a cloth is used, they may be hotter.

Five or ten minutes before luncheon-time find out whether there is any
reason why luncheon should not be served at the appointed hour. If the
family are ready, bring the butter and fill the glasses. Put a dish of      18
oysters on each plate, see that every chair is properly placed, and
announce that luncheon is served.

When all are seated, put the cracker plate on your tray and pass,
going always to the left.

To remove the oyster course, take in each hand a plate, with its
oyster dish and spoon, and carry to pantry, until all are removed.

Bring your vegetables to the side-table. Place the beefsteak platter
on the tray before the carver, lay carving-knife at the right and
carving-fork at the left of the platter, and put the warm luncheon
plates in front of the carver.

When some beefsteak has been served, take the plate in your right hand
and lift to your tray. Take to the lady of the house. Serve all on one
side first, then all on the other side. Go to the right of the person
served and put the plate down.

Place the potato dish on your tray, put a spoon in the dish, and pass.
Go to the left side, as the person served will use his right hand.          19
Pass your spaghetti in the same manner. Offer gherkins.

Pass the bread.

Pass the butter.

Fill the glasses.

Offer claret and Apollinaris.

Never let anybody ask for anything which belongs to the regular
luncheon. If demands are made upon the sideboard, supply them quietly
and quickly. Pass the vegetables, bread, and butter whenever needed.
Listen when beefsteak is offered, and be ready to hand the proper
plate without being sent for it.

In removing this course, take a suitable tray and lay on it the
carver, with its fork and the gravy spoon. Be careful to see that the
edge of carver does not touch fork or spoon, and lay the carver and
fork by themselves in the pantry. Next take out the beefsteak platter
and tray, and then the vegetable dishes. Take the luncheon plates, one
in each hand, until all are removed.

Take the bread-and-butter plates, butter and gherkin dishes. Take off       20
the china tray, salt cups, pepper boxes, and any clean glass or silver
that has not been used.

If from a polished table, remove the crumbs with a fringed napkin and
crumb-tray or plate. If a cloth is used, with a silver crumb knife and
tray or plate.

Place a dessert plate, with its fork, before each person.

Pass tarts, offering them at the left. Place cups of cocoa at the
right.

Fill the glasses.

Pass the tarts a second time. If cups are empty, pass them to be
filled without waiting to be told.

Remove tart plates, by taking one in each hand, to pantry, until all
are removed.

Place a plate, with finger bowl, for each person, and pass bonbons.

A luncheon served in this way gives us the following rules:

I--A dining-room must be free from dust and at a pleasant temperature;      21
neither too warm nor too cold.

II--A waitress is responsible for the proper heating of dishes before
they are brought to the table.

III--A meal must never be announced until everything which is needed,
or may be needed, is in readiness.

IV--Water must be fresh and cool.

V--Butter must not be served so soon as to become soft and oily.

VI--Bread must be freshly cut.

VII--Glasses must be kept filled.

VIII--Nothing but an unexpected extra should ever be asked for.

IX--Everything which admits of choice must be _passed_ at the left.
Everything which does not admit of choice must be _placed_ at the right.

X--In clearing the table, food must be first removed, then soiled
china, glass, silver, and cutlery, then crumbs.

XI--Everything relating only to one course must be removed before
serving another course.





                               Dinner                                       22


                            _Consommé._
                             _Sherry._
                  _Olives._      _Salted Almonds._
              _Broiled Bass_, _Maître d’hôtel Sauce._
                             _Claret._
                    _Roast Lamb_, _Mint Sauce._
               _Green Pease._      _Baked Tomatoes._
                        _Potato Croquettes._
                          _Lettuce Salad._
                     _Crackers._      _Cheese._
                       _Neapolitan Pudding._
                             _Coffee._

To serve this dinner you will need a heavy table-cloth, a linen
table-cloth, carving-cloths, dinner napkins, flower bowl, candelabra,
carafes, decanters, tumblers, sherry and claret glasses, salt cups,
pepper boxes, salt spoons, bread plate, olive dishes, almond dishes,
and spoons.
                                                                            23
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | SOUP.  | Soup tureen.       |Soup plates.      |Soup ladle.         |
  |        |                    |                  |Soup spoons.        |
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | FISH.  |                    |                  |Fish slice and fork.|
  |        |Fish platter.       |Fish plates.      |Sauce ladle.        |
  |        |Sauce boat.         |                  |Fish forks.         |
  |        |                    |                  |Fish knives         |
  |        |                    |                  |  (if required).    |
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | ROAST. |                    |                  |Large carver and    |
  |        |                    |                  |  fork.             |
  |        |Platter.            |                  |Gravy spoon.        |
  |        |Sauce boat.         |Dinner plates.    |Sauce ladle.        |
  |        |Three covered       |                  |Three tablespoons.  |
  |        |  vegetable dishes. |                  |Dinner knives.      |
  |        |                    |                  |Dinner forks.       |
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | SALAD. |Salad bowl.         |                  |Salad fork and      |
  |        |Cracker plate with  |                  |  spoon.            |
  |        |  doily.            |Salad plates.     |Cheese knife.       |
  |        |Cheese plate with   |                  |Salad forks.        |
  |        |  doily.            |                  |Cheese knives.      |
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  |DESSERT.|Flat pudding dish.  |Dessert plates.   |Pudding slicer.     |
  |        |Finger bowls.       |                  |Dessert forks.      |
  |        |Doilies.            |                  |                    |
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+
  | COFFEE.|Tray and tray cloth.|                  |                    |
  |        |Coffee-pot.         |After-dinner cups |Sugar tongs.        |
  |        |Sugar bowl.         |  and saucers.    |Coffee spoons.      |
  |        |Cream jug.          |                  |                    |
  +--------+--------------------+------------------+--------------------+

Make sure that the air of the dining-room is fresh, and the
temperature agreeable.

If dust has gathered on polished surfaces since luncheon, wipe them
lightly with a soft cloth.

See that your table is exactly in its right place, and not in the           24
least askew. Lay the Canton-flannel cloth perfectly smooth. Lay the
linen cloth flat and without a wrinkle. See that the coverings of the
sideboard and side-table are fresh and straight.

Place the flowers in the centre of the table.

If candelabra are used, put one on each side of the flowers, on a line
with them. If four candlesticks, place them in a square a little
distance from the flowers.

Spread a carving-cloth at the head and one at the foot of the table.
Be sure that they lie quite straight across it.

Place a carafe for the use of every two persons, and a salt cup and
pepper box for every two persons.

Lay a dinner plate for each person. On the right of each plate lay a
soup spoon, with the bowl turned up, a dinner knife with the sharp
edge turned towards the plate, a fish knife (if fish knives are used),
a tumbler for water, a glass for sherry, and a glass for claret.

At the left of each plate lay a fork for fish, and a larger one for         25
the roast. Lay them in the order in which they are to be used, the
fish fork being outside. At the left place also a napkin folded simply
and holding a piece of dinner bread.

On the sideboard place the dessert plates, on each one of which is a
doily under a finger bowl one-third full of water, and a dessert fork.
Put on the sideboard astray with after-dinner cups, saucers, and
spoons, a small bowl of lump sugar, and a small cream jug. Have on the
sideboard, also, extra glasses, knives, forks, and spoons.

On the side-table place extra plates, the carvers with their forks,
tablespoons, and sauce ladles. Leave room on the side-table for
vegetable dishes and sauce boats.

Be sure that the salad bowl, olive dishes, and pudding dish are cool,
the tureen, dishes, and plates being properly heated. When it is
nearly time for dinner, place two olive dishes and two almond dishes,
alternately, just outside of the candelabra; place a decanter of            26
sherry near the carver’s right, and a decanter of claret at the
opposite corner of the table; fill the carafes, fill the tumblers,
light the candles.

Place the soup tureen and some warm soup plates at the head of the
table, lay the soup ladle at the right of the tureen, see that every
chair is in its place, and announce that dinner is served.

When all are seated, uncover the soup tureen, put the cover on the
side-table, and stand at the left of the hostess.

When a ladleful of soup is served, lift the soup plate with your right
hand and place it on your tray. Take it to the person at the right of
the hostess. Go to the right side. Place the soup plate on the cold
dinner plate. Serve all on one side, then begin at the left of the
hostess and serve all on the other side.

To remove the soup course, take first the tureen, then a soup plate in
each hand, until all are removed. To remove soiled plates, go to the        27
_right_. Properly done, this way is more agreeable to those who sit at
table than when plates are taken from the left.

Pour sherry. Be careful to pour each glass three-fourths full.

Place the platter of fish and warmed fish plates before the host. Lay
the fish slice at the right of the platter and the fish fork at the
left of the platter.

When a portion of fish has been served, lift the plate in your right
hand and place on your tray. Go to the hostess first and exchange the
cold plate for the fish plate. Serve all on one side, then begin at
the left and serve all on the other side. Place the sauce boat on your
tray and offer at the left, going all around the table.

To remove the fish course, take first the fish platter, then the
plates, one in each hand, until all are removed.

Pour claret, and leave the decanter near the host. Pour each glass
only three-quarters full.

If olives and almonds have not been served by the persons at table to       28
each other, serve olives first, then almonds.

Place the roast before the carver, and the hot plates. Lay the
carving-knife and gravy spoon at the right of the platter, and the
carving-fork at the left of the platter. Serve the roast in the same
manner as the fish.

Put a spoon in the potato dish and place it on your serving tray.
Offer at the left of each person. Return the potato dish to the
side-table; serve the pease in the same manner, then tomatoes, and
then mint sauce.

To remove this course, first lift the carver, the carving-fork, and
gravy spoon to your tray and carry them to the pantry. Lay the carver
and fork carefully by themselves. Remove the platter with the roast.
Remove plates, one in each hand.

Remove the crumbs.

Place the salad fork and spoon in the salad bowl; put the bowl on your
tray. Place it before the host, with the salad plates. Lay a fork and
a knife quietly and quickly at each place.

When some salad is served, take to the hostess. Set the plate down          29
from the right. Serve all on one side, then all on the other side.

Pass the crackers, then the cheese.

Remove the salad bowl, salad plates, olives, almonds, salt cups,
pepper boxes, and wine-glasses.

Remove the crumbs.

Remove the carving-cloths.

Place a dessert plate, with its finger bowl and dessert fork, before
each person. Place the pudding before the hostess. Lay the pudding
slicer at the right of the pudding dish. Serve first the person at the
right of the hostess. Serve all on one side, then begin at the left of
the hostess and serve all on the other side.

Remove the pudding dish, plates, and finger bowls.

Place the coffee tray before the hostess, and bring the coffee-pot.
When the coffee is poured, place a cup at the right of each person.
Offer sugar and cream at the left.

If carafes are empty, fill them with fresh water.                           30

Do not leave the dining-room until you are sure that you have finished
all that there is to do.

A dinner served in this way gives us the following rules:

I--A dining-room must be free from dust and at a pleasant temperature.

II--Table-cloths must be laid without wrinkles and perfectly straight.

III--The sharp edge of knives must be turned towards the plate; bowls
of spoons and tines of forks must be turned up.

IV--Carvers must be treated with as much respect as if they were
razors.

V--A waitress is responsible for the proper heating of dishes and
plates before they are brought to the table.

VI--A meal must never be announced until everything is in readiness
which is needed or may be needed.

VII--Bread must be freshly cut.

VIII--Everything which admits of choice must be _passed_ at the left.       31
Everything which does not admit of choice must be _placed_ at the
right.

IX--Soiled plates and dishes should be removed from the right.

X--In clearing the table, food must be first removed, then soiled
china, glass, silver, and cutlery, then clean china, glass, silver,
and cutlery, then crumbs, then carving-cloths.

XI--Everything relating only to one course must be removed before
serving another course.




                               Supper                                       32


                        _Bouillon in Cups._
            _Chicken in Aspic Jelly._      _Roast Ham._
                        _Saratoga Potatoes._
                      _Olives._      _Rolls._
                 _Mustard Pickles._      _Butter._
                          _Salad Romaine._
                     _Crackers._      _Cheese._
                         _Almond Pudding._
                             _Coffee._

To serve this supper you will need: Heavy table-cloth, linen
table-cloth, carving-cloths, napkins, doilies, flower bowl,
candlesticks, carafes, tumblers, salt cups, pepper boxes, salt spoons,
plate for rolls, butter plate and knife, bread-and-butter plates,
olive dishes, pickle dishes, and forks.

Supper is served, instead of dinner, when it is necessary to gain time
for an evening entertainment, or when for other reasons a shorter           33
instead of longer meal is desirable.

  +-----------+------------------+---------------+---------------------+
  | BOUILLON. |Bouillon bowls    |Small plates.  |Small soup spoons.   |
  |           |  with covers.    |               |                     |
  +-----------+------------------+---------------+---------------------+
  | MEATS,    |Two cold platters.|Supper plates. |Aspic slicer.        |
  |  ETC.     |Vegetable dish.   |               |Ham slicer and fork. |
  |           |                  |               |Tablespoon.          |
  |           |                  |               |M’d’m steel knives.  |
  |           |                  |               |  ”   silver  ”      |
  |           |                  |               |  ”     ”   forks.   |
  +-----------+------------------+---------------+---------------------+
  | SALAD.    |Salad bowl.       |               |Salad fork and spoon.|
  |           |Cracker plate     |               |Cheese knife.        |
  |           |  with doily.     |Salad plates.  |Salad forks.         |
  |           |Cheese plate      |               |Cheese knives.       |
  |           |  with doily.     |               |                     |
  +-----------+------------------+---------------+---------------------+
  | DESSERT.  |Pudding dish.     |Dessert plates.|Pudding spoon.       |
  |           |                  |Finger bowls.  |Dessert forks.       |
  +-----------+------------------+---------------+---------------------+
  | COFFEE.   |Tray and tray     |               |                     |
  |           |  cloth.          |After-dinner   |Sugar tongs.         |
  |           |Coffee-pot.       |  cups and     |Coffee spoons.       |
  |           |Sugar bowl.       |  saucers.     |                     |
  |           |Cream jug.        |               |                     |
  +-----------+------------------+---------------+---------------------+

As many dishes as are possible, without crowding, are placed upon the
table before the meal is announced.

Have the air of the dining-room fresh, and the temperature not too
high.

See that the furniture is free from dust.                                   34

Be sure that the table is quite straight. Lay Canton-flannel cloth
perfectly smooth. Lay linen cloth without a wrinkle. See that the
coverings of the sideboard and side-table are fresh and straight.

Place flowers in the centre of the table, and four candlesticks in a
square outside of them.

Lay carving-cloths at the foot and the head, and see that they are
straight across the end of the table.

Place a carafe for the use of every two persons, and a salt cup and
pepper box for every two.

For each person lay a small plate. On the right of each plate lay a
small silver knife, a medium steel knife, with the sharp edge turned
towards the plate, a small soup spoon for bouillon, and a tumbler. At
the left lay a salad fork, a medium silver fork, a napkin, and a
bread-and-butter plate with a supper roll and a tiny butter ball.

Lay your sideboard and side-table with care. Make sure that everything      35
is in readiness which is or may be needed.

On the side-table have a coffee tray with cups, saucers, spoons, sugar
bowl, and cream jug. A salad tray with oil, vinegar, mixed mustard,
and red and white pepper; also the carving knives and forks.

On the sideboard place the dessert plates, each with a doily, on which
stands a finger bowl one-third full of water. At the right of the
finger bowl, on the plate, lay a dessert fork. On the sideboard lay,
also, extra knives, forks, spoons, and glasses.

Place the aspic of chicken at the head of the table, and lay the
slicer between it and the plates before the hostess. The plates should
be half the number of the persons at table. Place the roast ham at the
opposite end of the table, with the same number of plates as for the
chicken. Lay the carving knife and fork between the platter and the
pile of plates.

Place the olives and pickles alternately between and just outside the
line of the candlesticks. Fill the carafes and the tumblers. Put a          36
bowl of bouillon (covered) on each plate. See that every chair is in
its place and announce that supper is served.

To remove the bouillon bowls, take in each hand a plate, with its
bowl, cover, and spoon, until all are removed.

When a slice of ham has been placed on a plate, take the plate in your
right hand, place it on your tray, and go to the left of the hostess.
Hold your tray so that she can comfortably put a helping of chicken on
the plate with the ham. Serve this plate to the person on the right of
the hostess. She will now have a helping on a second plate. Take this
plate from her right, carry it to the left of the host for a helping
of ham. Serve this to the person at the right of the host. Take from
his right the next plate which is ready and carry it to the left of
the hostess, as before. Serve the next person on her right, and so on
until all are served.

Place a spoon in the potato dish, put on your tray, and pass it at          37
the left, going all around the table.

Pass the pickles, olives, butter, and rolls, if rolls have been
furnished with bouillon.

Keep the carafes filled and offer ice for the glasses.

When this course is finished, remove first the carvers and
carving-forks and spoon, then the meat platters and vegetable dish.
Next take the plates, one in each hand, until all are removed. Then
take the bread-and-butter plates, and the olive and pickle dishes.

Remove the crumbs.

Remove the carving-cloths.

Place the salad fork and spoon in the salad bowl, put it on your tray,
and place it before the host. Put the salad plates before the host.

When some salad has been served, take the plate in your right hand and
put it on your tray. Serve the hostess first by going to the right and
putting the plate down. Serve all on one side of the table first, then
begin at the left of the hostess and serve all on the other side.

Offer crackers, then cheese, going all around the table.                    38

Remove the salad bowl, lifting it from the right of the host to your
tray. Remove the plates, one in each hand, until all are removed.

Remove the crumbs.

Place a dessert plate, with its bowl and fork, before each person.

Place the pudding before the hostess. Lay the pudding slicer at the
right of the pudding dish.

To serve the pudding begin at the right of the hostess, each time
exchanging the dessert plate before the person served for the plate on
your tray.

Remove the pudding dish and plates and finger bowls.

Place the coffee tray before the hostess. Bring the coffee-pot and
place at the right of the tray.

When the coffee is poured place a cup at the right of each person.

Offer sugar and cream.




                           Afternoon Tea                                    39


For afternoon tea you need: Two small tables, fringed or embroidered
tea cloths, doilies, an urn for bouillon, bouillon cups, spoons, a
teakettle, teapots, tea caddy, sugar bowls, cream jugs, sugar tongs,
teacups and saucers, teaspoons, a pitcher for iced water, tumblers,
plates for finger rolls, plates for small cakes, bonbon dishes.

The afternoon tea which may properly be placed under the head of
receptions is not here considered. To serve it requires more than one
person.

The simple afternoon tea of a lady who is at home informally to her
friends should be arranged by the waitress. She should have command of
this situation, as well as of all others in her department. Bouillon
should be _hot_, a cup of tea should be hot and _fresh_. Finger rolls     40
should be spread in such a manner that bits of butter will not come in
contact with gloves. A tumbler must be only three-fourths full of
water.

Place a small table--round if possible--where it will be most
convenient for the hostess. Lay on it a daintily embroidered tea
cloth, two or three choice cups and saucers, with spoons, a small
sugar bowl with sugar tongs, a small cream jug, a dish of bonbons,
and, at the last moment, a small teapot of freshly made tea.

In a corner of the room, or at one side in the background, lay another
table with a tea cloth and place upon it an urn of bouillon, bouillon
cups, doilies, teacups and saucers, spoons, a kettle of boiling water,
a pitcher of iced water, tumblers, plates of finger rolls and small
cakes, a dish of bonbons, a sugar bowl, a cream jug, and a tea caddy.
On this table have, also, a teapot heating for the next brewing of
tea. Twenty minutes, or even more, may elapse between the serving of        41
the first cups of tea and those which follow. Tea to be enjoyable must
be freshly brewed.

When the hostess has received a guest or guests, offer bouillon from a
tray which holds also a small plate of finger rolls and one or two
doilies. If tea, which the hostess offers, is preferred, offer cakes
with it.

Observe quietly when a guest has finished a cup of bouillon or a cup
of tea, and, without the least appearance of haste, remove it on your
tray. Be sure that the hostess has always some fresh cups ready to
serve, and replenish the sugar bowl and cream jug when necessary.

If tea and cake only are served, you will still need a table for the
hot-water kettle, pitcher of iced water, tumblers, and whatever is
necessary to replenish the tea-table of the hostess.

If Russian tea be served, select a fair, fresh lemon and slice it
evenly. Place a small dish which holds three or four slices of lemon
on the tea-table, and have another in reserve from which to replenish.




                  Picnic and Travelling Luncheons                           42


Choose a drawer or shelf on which to keep all the neat boxes which
otherwise would be thrown away. With them put cords, small,
wide-mouthed bottles, with suitable corks, a package of paraffine
paper, and some light wrapping paper.

With these accessories at hand it is an easy matter to put up a few
sandwiches, some olives or tiny pickles, and some wafers or cake.

If picnic luncheons are frequent in summer and the waitress assists
the cook in putting them up, she can save much time and many mistakes
of omission by writing out a list of all the things ordinarily needed
for such occasions. This list she will keep in a safe place, and refer
to it as soon as a picnic is mentioned to see what will have to be
done the day before or early in the morning.

A list may be something like this:                                          43

  Plates.
  Glasses.
  Cups.
  Knives.
  Forks.
  Doilies.
  Teaspoons.
  Can-opener.
  Corkscrew.
  Hatchet.
  Coffee, sugar, and cream.
  Canned tongue.
  Canned chicken.
  Cold fried oysters.
  Cold roast lamb.
  Graham and white wafers.
  A loaf of bread.
  Coffee-pot.
  Glass jar for cream.
  Glass jar for salad.
  Jelly glass or a bowl with tight cover for butter.
  Box and paper for prunes, etc.
  Agate pail for water.
  Matches.
  Butter, packed in jelly glass or bowl, and left in the ice-box
    overnight.
  Vegetable salad.
  Pickles, olives, salt.
  Prunes, crystallized ginger.
  Sweet chocolate.




                        Care of Dining-Room                                 44


Suppose a dining-room in which the movable furniture consists of a
table, a sideboard, a side-table, a dinner wagon, a screen, and twelve
chairs. In the middle of the floor is a large rug which covers all
except a polished border of three feet from the walls all around the
room. The two windows are draped with curtains, there are pictures on
the walls and candelabra and ornaments on the mantel. In one corner of
the room is a closet, with glass doors, for glass, and in another
corner one similar for fine china. Under the one for glass is a safe
for silver, and under the one for china, shelves for some linen. Both
safe and shelves are enclosed by doors without glass.

The dining-table is the right size for the family, its extra leaves
being in their frame in the pantry. It stands in the middle of the          45
rug.

The end of the table next to the door is the head; that next the
window, the foot.

The sideboard is long enough and broad enough to hold all that need be
placed upon it. It stands at the side of the room between the china
closet and the pantry door. The side-table has two large drop leaves,
one or both of which may be used as occasion requires. It stands at
the side of the room between the mantel and a corner. The dinner wagon
is made of the same wood as the other furniture in the dining-room. It
is made of shelves of the same size, each with a little guard rim of
wood or brass, and each large enough to hold easily a large dinner
plate. It stands on the polished floor between the window and the
corner next to the pantry door. There is no sill under this door, and
the wagon is on rubber rollers, so that it can be moved noiselessly
and rolled into the space in the pantry which is provided for it. The
screen has two broad leaves and is placed so as to hide the pantry          46
door.

The rug in the dining-room should be brushed up every morning, or
swept with a carpet sweeper, and the polished border should be wiped
with a dry cloth. Once every week the room should be thoroughly swept.

Roll up the rug ready to be taken out for shaking. Lay on the
dining-table either paper or a sheet which is kept for the purpose, to
prevent scratches. On this place ornaments, dishes from the sideboard,
etc., and cover to keep from the dust. See that all doors and drawers
are tightly closed. Open the windows.

If the rug cannot be taken out each time, draw it one side, and move
the table into a corner before putting anything on it. Sweep the rug
well, being sure to sweep _with_ the nap and not _against_ it. Roll it
up as closely as possible. Sweep the floor with a hair brush having a
long handle, and use a broom for the rug only, so as to permit as
little dust as possible to rise to pictures and curtains. Take up           47
the dust and carry it away. Shake out the curtains so deftly that you
neither tear nor wrinkle them. Take a feather duster with a long
handle to brush off the tops of the curtain poles, tops of pictures,
and mouldings which are too high to reach with a cloth.

Bring a pail of water and wipe up the floor with a wet cloth. Learn to
rub with the grain of the wood, and do not leave lines or streaks.
When dry, rub the polished border with crude petroleum, which should
be applied with cotton waste, such as is used to clean engines, and
polish with clean cotton waste. A _very_ small amount of crude petroleum
should be used, and a weekly use of it keeps the polish fresh.

Wash your hands; relay the rug; dust the room. In dusting use a small
feather duster where necessary, but depend chiefly upon soft cloths.
_Dust should be taken up and shaken out of doors_, not whisked again
around a room.

Replace china and ornaments. Notice carefully whether any spot or stain     48
needs to be removed. Polish glass doors and glass of pictures. Wash
windows.

To keep the polish of the dining-table perfect, rub every three days
with a mixture made of equal parts of olive oil and turpentine. Apply
with flannel cloth and polish with clean flannel cloth. Dull spots on
other furniture may be treated in the same way.

Every morning before breakfast the dining-room must be well aired and
thoroughly dusted.

After each meal crumbs must be taken up carefully from the rug.




                           Care of Pantry                                   49


Neatness and order in your pantry will depend in great measure upon
the way you clear your table. If you look upon your butler’s pantry as
a dumping-ground, then dirt and disorder will be inevitable. But, on
the contrary, if you consider it a workshop, to be kept shipshape, you
will avoid these dangers. Shipshape means a place for everything and
everything in its right place.

Make up your mind in the beginning where you want to lay your knives,
where you want your silver, which is the best place for your heavier
china and the safest for your delicate pieces. When these places are
well chosen, then stick to them.

You must be sure to have a bowl or pan large enough to hold all the
broken bits and bones from any meal. A large yellow bowl or agate pan       50
is suitable for this. Do not use a tin pail; it is not cleanly. A
piece of lemon or a spoonful of tomato will rust it and it will soon
become disagreeable.

Do not begin your work until the food is put away. Next empty every
glass, cup, bowl, and pitcher. Rinse with cold water those which have
been used for milk or cream. Scrape your plates and dishes carefully,
and put those of one sort together. This saves time; it does not waste
it. A crust of bread from the broken bits will easily wipe out a fine
china bowl or silver ladle without scratching it as a knife or spoon
might do.

Keep a pan and brush at hand, and if food is dropped on your pantry
floor take it up at once. Then you will have one greasy spot instead
of long streaks to scour out.

When you have finished washing dishes, always leave your pan or sink
perfectly clean. Your sapolio is provided for the purpose of cleaning       51
them thoroughly and in an expeditious manner. Once a week you must
wash down the pipes with a strong solution of sal soda and water that
is actually boiling, not simply hot.

Never leave soiled towels lying in your pantry. After each meal wash
out those you have used and hang them to dry. You may add a little
dilute ammonia to the water in which you wash them. Once a week, all
towels that have been used should be thoroughly washed, scalded, and
ironed. You need fresh ones each time for glass and fine china. Do not
let your pile of fresh ones get exhausted before you have other fresh
ones to take their place.

Your pantry shelves should be kept well dusted, every drawer clean and
in order, the knife cleaner in proper place, the silver-cleaning
materials in their place. See that the clean hand towels are not mixed
with the dish towels. Keep salad cloths by themselves. Be sure that
the brooms and long dusters are hung, not standing on the floor, and        52
choose a good place for keeping dusting cloths and small feather
dusters.

Always remember that shipshape means a place for everything and
everything in its right place.




                           Washing Dishes                                   53


To wash dishes, silver, and knives, you need: A clean sink, plenty of
hot water, soap without much soda in it, a dish drainer, dish cloths
and mops, a soap shaker, a cake of sapolio, a bottle of dilute
ammonia, a knife cleaner, plenty of clean, dry towels.

Make a suds not too strong. Too much soap quickly takes color and
gilding off from china.

_Never leave soap lying in the water._

Begin with the glass, and see that every glass is emptied before you
begin to wash. Cold water in one, some milk in another, claret in
another, will soon make your pan unfit to wash anything in.

The rule for glass holds good for cups. See that every cup is emptied
before you begin to wash.

When a pitcher has been used for milk or cream, rinse it first with         54
cold water, and you will have no trouble to cleanse it. The same rule
applies to tumblers.

After the glass, take the delicate china cups and saucers, dessert
plates, etc. Put your mind on your work. Inspect each piece when it
leaves your hand to see if it is perfectly clean and dry.

By the time the glass and fine china are washed the water will be
chilled. Let it run out, and make a fresh hot suds for the silver.

_Never leave soap lying in the water._

When silver is washed clean and laid on the drainer, fill a pitcher
with hot water and pour over it.

Now use your judgment and see whether the water is clean enough and
hot enough for dishes. If it is, take a pile of plates, or your
vegetable dishes, or whatever you think you can cleanse without
needing hot water.

Change the water whenever it is necessary.

Never on any account leave dishes lying in the water while you go to        55
attend to something elsewhere. To do so injures gilding and color.
Remember if you are quick you can do a good deal before one water
cools, and you will have to change only when it is soiled.

Never put many dishes to wash at one time. The size of your sink or
pan will regulate the number. Put dishes of one kind in at one time,
and dishes of another kind in the next time. Then you can work
rapidly.

If you put in a pile of dinner plates, some bread-and-butter plates, a
little pitcher, and a sauce boat, and you find when you are through
that the pitcher is cracked, a handle off of the sauce boat, and a
chip out of one of the large plates, do not report that you could not
prevent these accidents. Such things do not come under the head of
accidents; they come under the head of carelessness.

You may rinse plates and dishes in the same way that you do silver,
with this difference: you must see that the water poured upon delicate
china is not too hot, or it will crack it.

Before you begin to wash at all, ask yourself where you are going to        56
stand your dishes when they are dried. Arrange so that you have room
enough without letting clean dishes touch soiled ones, or without
being obliged to put dry dishes on a wet spot.

When your silver is dried put it away. Do not let it lie where it will
be spattered from the washing of the next things.

There are two good reasons for spreading out a clean towel on which to
lay your silver as you dry it. One is that the silver does not get
scratched, and the other is that it enables you to handle it in a
noiseless manner.

There is a good reason for washing dishes of one kind together, aside
from the question of cracking and chipping. When they are washed and
dried they are ready to put away without further sorting.

Silver trays used at each meal should be washed after each meal, just
as regularly as a bread plate or a crumb tray. Sometimes crumbs fall
on a tray, sometimes a drop from a sauce boat. These you can see; but,      57
unless you think about it, you will not realize that you cannot serve
a meal without leaving finger marks and dull spots on the edge of a
tray.

Watch the inside of your pitchers. Sediment from boiling water or
stains from chocolate may be easily removed the first day; after that
twice the time, at least, will be needed to efface them. If clear
water or hot soapsuds will not do it, use a little sapolio.

When your dishes and silver all are finished, cleanse your steel
knives. Never let the handles touch the water. Hold in your left hand
and wash the blades with your right. After they are washed scour the
blades with bath brick or on an emery board. Let the blade rest flat
upon your board; this prevents bending and loosening the handle.

There is a knife cleaner which many ladies would like to have used for
their knives, if they knew that it would be properly used. It is a
disk with emery pads on a wheel, and has spaces for both small knives       58
and carvers. If the knives are put in as they should be, a few turns
of the wheel will polish and sharpen them at the same time. If
carelessly put in, both knives and machine can be spoiled in one
using. But this machine is costly, and you will need to prove yourself
an expert before adding it to the pantry furnishings.




                        Care of Silver, Etc.                                59


Once every week your silver should be thoroughly polished.

First clean with electro-silicon, or any perfectly smooth powder,
mixed with a little alcohol and water. Rub with soft cloths or
chamois, and use a soft brush where necessary. Sometimes it is
impossible to get all the powder out of tracery and filigree work. In
that case hold under boiling water and dry quickly.

If you have a Vienna coffee-pot, Benares brass trays, or similar
articles to clean, rub first with electro-silicon and a mixture of
one-half lemon juice and one-half water, then polish with hard silver
rouge.

To keep the polish of your tables in order, have a mixture of one-half
turpentine and one-half olive oil. Wash the wood with clear water, or       60
water in which a little borax has been dissolved. Never rub soap on
polished wood. Rub a little of the oil and turpentine on with a
flannel cloth. Polish with a clean flannel.




                               Lamps                                        61


Dining-room lamps are either a source of great pleasure or of
perpetual torment.

Any one who washes dishes according to the directions given will not
have to be told to have always a spotless chimney and no oil on the
outside of jars.

To prevent oil from oozing over the top of the burner, turn the wick
down after the light is out.

_Rub_ the wicks, do not _cut_ them. A new wick must be started right.
Loose threads should be clipped off to start with, but when once in
shape the necessity for clipping will be very rare. A wick ought to be
put in several hours before using, so that it may be thoroughly
saturated with oil. When a lamp has been burned, if one part is a
little higher than the other parts it will char first, and, when well       62
charred, can be rubbed off to the level of the rest. A bit of soft
paper, a nailbrush, or, best of all, the unbroken finger of a glove,
will do this successfully.

Be sure that no bit of charred wick or burned fly or moth is left in
the lower part of the burner. There is danger of these igniting and
setting fire to the oil in the reservoir. A clean, unbroken lamp is
not dangerous.

If a lamp has been left standing with a little oil in, it should not
be lighted until filled and the burner carefully wiped. It is possible
that gas may have formed, making the lamp, as it stands, unsafe to
light before refilling.

To start the circular wick of a large lamp, like the Rochester, put a
new wick in the burner, and saturate thoroughly with oil that part of
the wick that is above the burner, which is best done by holding wick
and edge of burner upside down in a shallow cup of oil. Put the burner
in the lamp, but have _no oil_ in the lamp. Light the wick and put the
chimney on. Let the oil burn out of the wick. This method chars the         63
wick so that it can be rubbed down to a smooth, even surface. Started
rightly, a wick can be kept even. The objection to this is the odor
from the burning wick; but the time necessary to do it is short, and
an open window can be arranged without having enough draught to break
the chimney.

When a lamp is first lighted, leave the flame low until the metal of
the burner is heated, then turn as high as possible without smoking.
This secures a clear, steady flame.

To clean burners, boil in water in which sal soda has been dissolved.
Put one teaspoonful to each quart of water.

To prevent chimneys from cracking, put them before using into a large
pan and cover them with cold water. Bring the water slowly to a boil.
Take the pan off of the fire and let the chimneys cool slowly in the
water.

If the brass catches of a burner are too tight, the chimney will break
as it expands with the heat. These catches are easily loosened without      64
injuring the lamp.

Alcohol lamps for kettles and chafing-dishes must be kept perfectly
clean. The wicks must sometimes be renewed before they are burned out.
The question, What is the matter with the lamp? may often be solved by
putting a fresh wick in the place of one that has become clogged.

This is very often true of oil lamps. There is more or less paraffine
in oil, which fills the wick and prevents combustion.




                              Carving                                       65


The chair placed for a carver must be high enough to allow the work to
be done comfortably without the carver being obliged to stand. The
platter must be large enough to hold the entire joint or bird when
carved, without any piece falling over the edge of the platter. A
waitress should make sure before placing a dish in front of the carver
that the platter is really hot; if it is not the dish gravy will
become chilled, and consequently unfit for use, before it can be
served.

See that no string or skewer is left to annoy the carver. The silver
skewers sent to table intentionally are, of course, excepted. The
platter must be placed near enough to the carver to prevent
awkwardness or the necessity of moving the dish. In serving large
birds, as goose or turkey, place the head always to the left. If            66
smaller birds, as partridge or grouse, which are placed across the
platter, let the heads be on the farther side. A saddle of mutton
should be placed with the tail end to the left of the carver. A haunch
of venison or mutton, with the loin or backbone nearest the carver. A
leg of mutton or lamb, or a knuckle of veal, with the thickest part
towards the back of the platter. A shoulder of mutton or veal, with
the thickest part up. A rib roast or a sirloin roast should be placed
with the backbone at the right end of the platter. A rump roast, with
the backbone at the farther side of the platter. A round of beef, with
the flesh side up. A sirloin beefsteak, with the tenderloin next to
the carver. A fillet of beef, with the thickest end at the right end
of the platter. A calf’s head, with face to the right. A roast pig,
with head to the left. A roast ham, with the thickest part on the
farther side of the platter.

A waitress should know how to carve. The first steps may be learned         67
by cutting bread and slicing pressed meats. To do these two things
perfectly, one must acquire a steady hand and a straight eye. Slices
must be of uniform thickness, thin enough to be delicate, not thin
enough to break. There must be no ragged edges. From the slicing of
cold meats to the slicing of a rolled roast or other meats from which
the bones have been taken is not a great step if the knife be in
perfect condition. Enough confidence will have been gained to grasp
the slicer firmly and slice quickly and firmly across the roast.

Further than this it will not be well to go without some object
lessons, for the meats are not the only things to be considered; the
knives must be kept from injury.

When you have placed a rib roast properly, watch the carver. Study the
different positions of the knife and fork, as he puts the fork in the
middle and cuts down to the ribs close to the backbone. The thick
gristle near the backbone will be next cut off. Then from the side          68
nearest the carver will be cut thin, even slices parallel with the
ribs, and the knife run under them, separating them from the bone. The
sirloin roast will be sliced in the same way, a cut being made at the
flank end as well as near the backbone to separate the slices.

You will notice that a good carver is careful to serve neatly the
crisp fat with the rare slices. This adds richness to their flavor.

To carve a beefsteak, the eye must be trained to know at once the best
parts, and all of the best should not be served to one or two persons.
First cut out the tenderloin close to the bone and cut it into long,
narrow pieces, then cut the other part from the bone and cut into
strips. Serve a part of each, and serve the fat to those who prefer
it.

To carve a leg of mutton or lamb, or knuckle of veal, put the fork in
the top, turn it towards you and cut slices through to the bone, slip
the knife under and cut them away from the bone. The under side may be
sliced in the same manner.

A saddle of mutton must be carved with the grain of the meat, in long,      69
thin slices from each side of the back. It must be partly turned over
to reach the tenderloin and kidney fat.

The leg and saddle of venison are carved in the same way as the leg
and saddle of mutton. When the leg and loin are served together, the
loin should be carved before the leg. First cut off the flank and cut
it in pieces, then separate the ribs and afterwards carve the leg.

It will be better not to attempt to carve a forequarter of mutton,
lamb, or veal until this part has been studied uncooked and the joints
learned. The same advice applies to birds, large and small.

To carve a forequarter, put the carving-fork in firmly near the
knuckle. Cut all around the leg and up on the shoulder. Lift the leg
from the shoulder and cut till you reach the joint. Cut through this
joint, then from left to right, separating the lower from the upper
part of the breast. Take out the blade, if it has not already been          70
removed, divide the ribs, and then slice the leg if it be required.

Roast ham should be cut from the thickest part down to the bone, in
thin slices, the fat and crust being served with each slice.

In carving tongue, the tip or thinnest part should be cut lengthwise.
The centre is the finest part.

Before trying to carve poultry, study the joints of the uncooked
birds. When you find a joint and cut the cord and gristle, a leg or a
wing is free. To find a side bone or a collar bone is not easy at
first, but can be learned by a little practice.

Watch the rapid manipulations of a good carver. Remember that to carve
a roast chicken or turkey, you remove first the leg, then the wing,
from one side, then the leg and wing from the other side, separating
the joints. Then carve the breast on each side; next take off the
wishbone, separate the collar bones and shoulder blades, separate the
breastbone from the back, then the back from the body, and then the         71
side bones. In large birds the second joints and legs should be carved
in at least two pieces.

The breast of a roast goose and of a roast duck should be cut parallel
to the breastbone.

Small birds, when not served whole, may be cut from the neck to the
end of the breast and down through the backbone.

To carve a large partridge, cut off the leg and wing from one side,
then from the other; leg and wing should be served together. Remove
the breast from the back and cut it through the middle. When the birds
are smaller, serve one half of a bird to each person.

In carving fish, learn to serve neatly and leave the backbone on the
platter. Carve to the bone, and serve. Remove the bone to one side and
carve the lower half.

A carver should try not only to serve each person acceptably, but to
leave the meat on the platter in appetizing form for a second helping.




                          Care of Carvers                                   72


Fine carvers should be treated with the same respect as fine razors.
They should be laid always by themselves. On no account should the
edge of one carver touch that of another carver, nor should it touch
any other hard substance.

A carver must always be sharpened on its steel before it is offered
for use, unless a contrary direction is given, and when necessary
should be taken without delay to the shop of a careful workman to have
the edge renewed.

It is safest to replace carvers in their own cases. When they are laid
in a drawer, it is well to keep each one in its own simple case of
heavy gray flannel.




                           General Rules                                    73


The air of a dining-room must be fresh, and not too warm. Furniture
must be free from dust. Table-cloths must be laid straight and smooth.
Side-tables must be draped. Napkins must be folded simply, and not in
fanciful shapes, as fans, etc. The edge of a knife must be turned
towards the plate; bowls of spoons and tines of forks turned up.
Knives and spoons must be placed at the right of a plate; forks at the
left. Place knives and forks in the order in which they are to be
used; the first one used, on the outside.

All glasses must be placed at the right.

Napkins and bread-and-butter plates must be placed at the left.

Carvers, fish-slice and fork, etc., should be laid on a side-table
until needed, then placed quietly and quickly, the knife at the right       74
of the platter, and the fork at the left.

Extra plates, glasses, knives, forks, and spoons should be in
readiness on the side-board.

Such things as mustard, vinegar, etc., which may be wanted, should be
in readiness on the side-table or in the pantry.

Filtered water, ice, and extra bread or rolls should always be at hand
in the pantry during a meal.

Bread must be freshly cut.

Water must be fresh and cool.

Butter must not be served so soon as to become soft.

A waitress is responsible for the proper heating of dishes before they
are brought to the table.

A meal must not be announced until everything is ready which is or may
be needed.

Everything not too large to rest comfortably upon a serving-tray
should be handed from it.

Any dish from which a person at table helps himself should be offered       75
at the left. Any dish which the waitress serves should be placed at
the right.

Glasses for water must be kept filled.

In removing a course, food must be first taken; then soiled china,
glass, silver, and cutlery; then clean china, glass, silver, and
cutlery; then carving-cloths, and lastly crumbs.

Soiled plates and dishes should be removed from the right.

To remove a carving-cloth, fold it quickly together and lift to tray.

Everything relating only to one course must be removed before serving
another course.

Plates and dishes must never be piled together so that china rests on
pieces of silver.

Work in pantry must be as nearly noiseless as possible.

A waitress must not leave the dining-room until she is sure that there
is nothing more for her to do.

Before a girl is an “expert” in waiting she must learn:

To stand straight.                                                          76

To step lightly and quickly.

To dress neatly.

To keep tidy hair, clean teeth, and clean finger-nails.

To close a door without noise.

To take proper care of a dining-room, pantry, silver, brass, lamps,
and polished wood.

To handle dishes and silver in a quiet manner.

To carry dishes without having them touch her dress.

To treat carvers with as much respect as if they were razors.

To sharpen carvers.

To remove crumbs.

To cut bread.

To make butter balls.

To dress salads.

To make sandwiches.

To make coffee, tea, and chocolate.

To serve wines.




                     Miscellaneous Instructions                             77


Dainty meals are served in a great many houses where there is neither
time nor inclination for the number of courses which are considered
necessary at other tables. Perfection of serving, that is, perfect
comfort, should be aimed at as much in one case as in the other. There
should be absolute cleanliness and noiseless movement. Meals should be
ready on time, and there should be no occasion to wait for things that
ought to be close at hand. Time may be gained without causing
confusion, if proper thought be given beforehand to the serving of
each particular dish. Instead of passing a fish sauce, it may, in many
cases, be put on the platter with the fish, so that the carver serves
some of it with each helping. Meat gravies may be put on the table to       78
be passed from one to another without the help of the waitress. When
this is done the waitress should select two suitable gravy boats or
bowls, see that they are properly heated and not filled too full. When
she has brought hot plates to the carver she may bring the gravy
boats, put one near one end of the table and another near the other
end. This may be done so quickly that she will be ready to take the
first plate which the carver has ready for her. The same rule applies
to pudding sauces. Instead of one large bowl or dish, two pretty,
smaller ones may be selected and put on the table immediately after
the pudding has been placed before the hostess. Pickles and other
relishes may be served in two or more small dishes and put at
convenient distances along the table.

A dinner-table is much more attractive with a handsome plate before
each person as he or she is seated; but where time and space are
limited, the cold plate may be dispensed with.

The proper placing of a side-table makes every difference in the            79
serving of a meal. A small table at each end of the room is often
desirable. This gives a proper place to put down a vegetable or other
dish, without walking the length of the room, when the waitress needs
to take a plate to the carver for a second helping. This table may
hold whatever extras may be needed by the hostess for the dishes which
she serves, as the table near the host holds extra carvers, etc.,
which he may need. These tables must be used with discretion, and no
unsightly dish, which should be at once carried to the pantry, must be
allowed to remain on them. Their object, like that of the dinner wagon
described in “Care of Dining-Room,” is simply to lessen time between
courses and to help a waitress to pass vegetables before meats have
grown cold.

The best serving is often most appreciated where there are not the
conveniences necessary for carrying out rules which at first sight
seem very simple. To remove the dishes from a dinner of even five or        80
six courses, according to the directions given, it is necessary to
have a pantry large enough to put down the dishes as they are taken
from the table, without piling one upon the other. This takes a good
deal of space. The one waitress has no assistant to take from her hand
and deftly separate knives, forks, and spoons from plates and dishes,
piling all in a compact manner. It is necessary, therefore, that she
should exercise her very best common-sense.

If the pantry opens into a roomy, well-ventilated kitchen, by a swing
door which makes no noise, then a large table may be placed in the
kitchen so that an extra step or two will make possible the putting
down of all dishes for which there is no room in the pantry. Where
this is not possible, some means must be devised for gathering
together the dishes with the least possible confusion. One way to do
it is the following:

When a course is finished take a suitable tray for soiled dishes; go
to the right of each person to remove the dishes, beginning at any          81
convenient place at the table. After a cereal course, place a dish on
your tray and quickly, without any noise, lay the spoon by the side of
it on your tray. Put the next dish on the top of the one you have
already taken and the spoon by the other spoon. When you have taken
dishes and spoons, take plates, piling one above another on your tray.

If there are few people at table, you may take all at once; if there
are more, you must judge for yourself how many times to go. Follow
this rule: Never pile dishes on a tray in a manner to look
disagreeable to yourself or to those who sit at table.

Salad and dessert plates you may remove as you do cereal dishes,
putting forks or spoons on the tray by the side of the plates.

After a meat course, go to the right, holding your tray in your left
hand near enough to let no particles of food fall upon the table. Take
the knife and fork at the same time in your right hand, lay the knife
on one side of your tray and the fork on the other side. As you go          82
around the table in this way put all the knives together on one side
and the forks on the other. Carry the knives and forks to the pantry.
Next take the plates. Put one above another on your tray until you
have taken three or four from the table. Proceed in this manner until
all are removed.

A waitress will do well to make herself acquainted as soon as possible
with the proper way of serving other courses than those of the simple
dinner. She should know how to serve oysters and clams cold on the
half-shell, or to see that the oyster plates are thoroughly chilled
without being cracked. She should know the different sauces and the
correct manner of serving. For instance, if game be served without a
sauce, she may offer dressed celery or lettuce to be taken on the same
plate. If a hot sauce and a salad are both served, she will provide an
extra plate for the salad. She should learn the correct temperature
for wines, as well as the glasses in which they belong, and various         83
other details necessary to be attended to during a full dinner.

Many things may be learned by cheerfully assisting the caterer who
serves an occasional dinner in the household, or by taking a position
where a part of the parlor maid’s duty is to assist an experienced
butler; or, in many houses, the mistress herself will kindly give the
necessary instruction.

A waitress who has become competent may arrange and serve special
meals, delegating the work done formerly with a caterer to assistants
under her. She must be careful not to attempt more than she can safely
perform, and then carry out her plan with quiet confidence in her own
ability. Except in case of an accident which she cannot remedy, she
should not speak to the hostess, who should be left perfectly free to
entertain her guests without a care about the food which they are
eating. All doubts should be settled before the lady of the house goes
to her room to dress for dinner. A waitress, however competent, must
consult those whom she serves upon the special way of having many           84
things done. She must know how to sharpen carvers, but she must not
try her hand upon new ones without finding out whether the host
prefers to handle them entirely himself; this question to be asked, of
course, before laying the table. The special form of serving boiled
eggs should also be settled, and the question of serving cheeses whole
or broken.

Cheeses of the pineapple and Eadam varieties should be cut so that the
top will fit again closely and exclude the air. To preserve perfectly
a section cut from any large cheese, it should be kept wrapped in a
napkin or piece of cheese cloth wrung out of cider vinegar. Rhine wine
will answer the same purpose, but the vinegar will not leave an
objectionable trace. Cheese should always be served on a folded
napkin, for the reason that it is more or less oily and looks
pleasanter on the napkin than on the plate.

The crisp green salad, with its accompaniment of a red or golden            85
cheese, is one of the most agreeable courses of the dinner, and no
unsightly crumbs should be left on the cloth before it is served.

A carving-cloth should not be folded on the table. The corners may be
turned deftly together and the cloth removed to a tray on which it may
be carried to the pantry, to be folded later.

When a number are at table, only a part of the plates should be put
before the carver at one time; but the others must be ready on a near
side-table.

By learning to make dainty paper frills for lamb chops or for the bone
of a ham, and by studying simple garnishings of fresh parsley, celery
tips, and lemon, pleasant effects may be produced and a reputation for
taste and skill acquired. The same dish may be served in a variety of
ways, one of which may tempt the appetite where others have failed.
Instead of serving chicken salad in a plain dish at luncheon, it may
be put in cups made by removing the pulp from solid red tomatoes, and       86
each tomato placed on a bed of green lettuce leaves.

One is always pleased by a novelty, that is, after the more
substantial part of a meal is finished, and a waitress who becomes an
artist in her especial line may not only give a great deal of pleasure
to others, but keep herself from getting tired of the daily routine.
If she wishes to raise her work above the level of mere drudgery, she
will study to see how she can improve each day upon the work of the
day before.

Nothing should ever be done because Mrs. X’s butler does so and so, or
because Mrs. Y’s maid says she saw it done like this in England. Every
good rule has a good reason for its foundation; every rule which has
not a good reason for being should be replaced by a better one.

There are good reasons for serving the lady of the house first,
although this rule is often waived to do honor to the distinguished
guest for whom a luncheon or dinner is given. In a country-house            87
several distinguished people or dear friends are entertained at one
time; to serve the hostess first and follow a regular order along the
table makes no distinction. Novelties are often introduced, both in
food and in service. Dishes are served before which a guest hesitates
as to which fork or which spoon to use until he glances at his hostess
to see which one she takes up.

Not every one who travels goes to the East, and not every one who goes
to the East is entertained by Eastern dignitaries and brings Eastern
customs home. When a lady does dispense with finger-bowls and follows
the custom of a Grand Pacha in having passed to her guests a large
silver bowl of rose water, in which each one in turn is expected to
dip the tips of the fingers and wipe them on a pearl-fringed towel,
she need not be surprised if the first guest, seeing this bowl of rare
workmanship presented at her left hand, looks about on the tray for
some spoon or ladle by which she is to help herself to the pale             88
beverage. If the bowl be handed first to the hostess and she follows
the custom of the Grand Pacha, no guest need betray that she was not
brought up in the house of a Grand Pacha herself.

A hostess who takes pride in having her forks made to suit special
courses, like asparagus, and who has several forks laid by each plate
before dinner is served, finds it necessary to take up the right one
before her guests make a choice. I have in mind a dinner where the
hostess delayed the tasting of a course, the absent-minded host took
the wrong fork, some guests took one and some another. The butler did
his best to replace the right ones; but after all his efforts,
somebody had a wrong fork to the end of the dinner.

A waitress should remember, when going into a new family, that some
things, which seem novel to her and only to be done away with, may be
old-established family customs, to which she must adapt herself if she
is to give satisfaction. If she finds that pease, tomatoes, and other       89
vegetables are served in a semi-liquid state instead of the drier one
to which she has been accustomed, she must use the small dishes
provided, remembering that the rule, “all vegetables are to be eaten
from the dinner plate,” is not accepted by all housekeepers, although
it is by a great number. So, if fish knives are provided, she need not
feel that she is offending against good manners, even if she has seen
only forks used before.

However, there are some things which a little true tact and management
might alter for the benefit of all concerned. I knew one table where
many well-cooked dishes and many delicate desserts were served, at
which the relishes were something startling. Spanish peppers, stuffed
and pickled, I had been used to see cut in small pieces and served
from a pickle dish. At this table a whole stuffed Spanish pepper was
served to each person in a small dish which held some of the vinegar
as well as the pepper.

An improvement upon this is the serving of olives in small dishes to        90
each person, although it is hard to realize how any one at a
well-served dinner would care to eat a relish as if it were a
vegetable. Those who are fond of olives think them very, very good,
and those who do not like them think they are horrid; but it would
seem better to lunch off of them when alone, and not neglect for one
flavor the many flavors prepared for enjoyment during a
well-thought-out dinner.

A waitress with good health, a fair amount of brains, and a
determination to be a better waitress than any woman was before, has a
great field before her. But if she aspires to raise waiting to the
dignity of a profession, she must study; she must educate her eye to
know the difference between a line that is exactly straight and one
that is slightly askew; she must train her memory until the daily
routine is perfectly easy and she can give thought to decoration and
invention; she must educate her hands until they are to be trusted
with the care of the frailest glass and china, and educate her sense        91
of smell and of taste until she can suit each salad dressing to the
dinner of which it forms a part, making it rich or piquant, as the
other dishes demand.

In one of our largest cities I have been shown a large kitchen which
had been fitted up next to an employment bureau for the training of
partially trained cooks and waitresses. The teacher had been
dismissed, the cooking utensils and the range were for sale. “Why?”
“Because the ladies would not give their maids any time to come and
learn.”

I have no doubt that this was true; but there are plenty of ladies who
do wish their maids to learn, and if those who have opportunities for
improvement will make the most of those opportunities, they will raise
the standard of work, and inspire their co-workers who are now willing
to stay as they are and let well enough alone.




                         Useful Suggestions                                 92


In order to do any work in the best manner it is necessary that one
should be strong and well. To become strong and to keep well some
simple rules must be understood and carefully followed. One may be
blessed with good health, but no constitution can stand the strain
made upon it when the ways and means for preventing fatigue and
disease are disregarded.

To keep good health it will be necessary to form carefully and to
continue steadily nice habits of personal cleanliness.

Personal cleanliness includes more than keeping the skin and the hair,
the nails and the teeth, clean. It includes keeping one’s
sleeping-room sweet and fresh, and airing the bed thoroughly every
morning. To spread up a bed a few minutes after one is out of it may        93
give to the room an air of neatness, but it folds into the bedding the
close air of the night instead of letting it all go out of the window,
to be replaced by the freshness of the morning.

And cleanliness means more than a clean gown and clean collar and
cuffs. One of the first things for a waitress to consider is her
supply of underclothing. She will see the necessity of fresh print
dresses for morning work, and a neat dark costume for afternoons; but
she may be thoughtless at first about underclothing. Yet to keep
clean, and by keeping clean to promote good health, nothing is more
important than to be able to change underclothing whenever she feels
the need of doing so. And in clothing, stockings are an important
item. It is restful to change shoes, but more restful to change both
shoes and stockings. The warm, tired foot is very grateful for the
clean, smooth stocking before it begins its rounds about the evening
dining-table.

Slippers or low shoes for house wear must be thoroughly comfortable,        94
and shoes for out-of-doors must give a firm support to the feet, and
at the same time protect them from the wet and the cold. To buy cheap
shoes is not real economy. A shoe to be worth buying should be well
made and fit comfortably. Such a shoe will outwear two or three pairs
of the cheap ones which are showy but poorly made.

To preserve health it is very important to have a sufficient amount of
sleep. Girls sometimes say that they need only a little sleep, and are
never tired except just before they get up in the morning. But one
ought not to feel tired in the morning just before getting up. Sleep
should be long enough to refresh both mind and body, and care should
be taken to insure the necessary amount.

It may seem at first as if regulation of hours is beyond the control
of one who is serving other persons; but in this, as in many other
things, much depends upon the worker and the manner in which she            95
performs her work. If hours of waiting are ended early she must go to
bed early, for she will be required to be up betimes in the morning.
If she has to wait late at night it is not likely that she will be
required to be up too early in the morning, provided, her work is
carefully done after she is up. If she loses health and strength
because of too little sleep it will sometimes be on account of sitting
up late, as many say they do, to read exciting novels; or, when she
has evenings out, crowding as much exercise and excitement into one
evening as ought to go to the enjoyment of a dozen.

It is said, too, that the matter of meals is beyond control; but this
is often not so. Many a lady has taken the greatest pains to arrange
proper meals for the maids in her employ, and has had them served at
an earlier hour than those of the family. In this case a waitress does
not have to stand with an empty stomach, passing food which makes her
feel faint and ill, she scarcely knows why. The idea that a hasty meal      96
taken at intervals from the remains of a late dinner is better than a
plainer one nicely served and eaten at leisure is one of the greatest
mistakes that can be made; yet it is constantly made by many of those
to whom the choice is given of having meals before or after waiting
upon the table.

Many employers are more than ready to arrange for the comfort of maids
in this and in other matters. When they are not, it must be remembered
that they have been too long and too sorely tried by ignorant and
unappreciative help to hope at first that the new order of intelligent
and thoroughly trained waitresses is going to be any better than those
who have preceded them in the household.

With good health it is easier to break up bad habits and form better
ones than when one has to give valuable time and attention to bodily
ailments.

A habit too easily formed, and one which should be at once broken up,
is that of listening to what is said at table, instead of concentrating     97
attention upon the waiting. Not that there is any harm in listening to
good conversation, but if while listening one misses the softly spoken
“Bread, please,” or “Will you fill my glass?” and has to be recalled
by a repetition of the request by the mistress of the house, some
marks have certainly been lost from a perfect record.

Elderly persons should not be neglected, but should be especially
considered at meals. Often some little thing from the side-board, not
cared for by the rest of the family, may be desired by them. A little
forethought will provide the vinegar or celery salt or whatever it may
be, and no unnecessary interruption to the meal need be made.

At breakfast and luncheon a, waitress may add much to every one’s
comfort by keeping a watchful eye on the plates of the children. A
hungry child is sometimes apparently unreasonable without wishing to
be naughty. One child may be forbidden maple syrup on his cereal and        98
allowed sugar. If the sugar be not provided, and he sees the others
eating the syrup which he loves but may not have, it is almost too
much to expect that he will wait patiently until his needs are
remembered.

Waiting is a department of woman’s work which is capable of being
greatly improved and raised to a higher standard. The women who will
improve this department are those who appreciate the necessity of good
health, and who will use every means in their power to secure health
and to keep it. They are women who will learn thoroughly the duties
they have elected to perform. They will train hand and foot to do
their instant bidding. They will train the eye so that nothing in the
daily routine will be left undone, and so that nothing outside of it
which may add to the general comfort will escape their notice.




                       In the Invalid’s Room                                99


It may be objected that the sick-room is not a place for the
waitress--that the trained nurse is also the waitress of her patient.
This is often true, for in cases of extreme illness it is many times
unsafe to allow the confusion of voices with the noise of movement
which accompanies the entrance of one unaccustomed to invalids. There
are, however, numerous instances of transient illness or indisposition
which are to be considered. If a little girl has had croup in the
night, and must be kept in bed the next day, a nurse is not sent for;
or if a boy goes swimming too early in the season, and has such a cold
after it that he cannot get up, it will not be considered necessary to
bring some one in from outside to take care of him. Then there are
convalescents after an illness, and elderly persons who perhaps two        100
or three times a week may need to breakfast in bed. Enough cases to
make it worth while for a waitress to consider as a part of her
training the proper way to conduct herself in the sick-room.

The nearer she brings her work to perfection in other departments, the
nearer perfection will she be in this.

The first thing to consider will be the nicety of her appearance and
the absence of noise. If she has been out in the street to do an
errand, she will on no account hasten to the sick-room with a tray
before she has replaced by her soft shoes the heavier ones which may
have a squeak in them. And she will at no time go hastily into a
sick-room. She will open the door as softly as a nurse herself would
do, and move as noiselessly when she is in the room. She will not
express by her looks that she thinks a patient is worse than the day
before, or say, in what she calls a whisper, as she goes out, “She
looks a good deal paler,” or, “I really believe he is going to be          101
down sick.”

The tray taken to an invalid should be studied as carefully as the
table in the dining-room. A trained eye will let no spot or stain on
the dining-room linen escape it; nor will a trained waitress fail to
replace a spotted cloth by a fresh one. On a tray cloth a coffee stain
or a fruit stain is not at all sure to escape notice because it is
covered by a plate or a saucer. That plate or that saucer is the very
one that will surely be lifted, and the stain will jar the sense of
neatness, which grows more keen when one is shut in from all outside
things which in health claim the attention.

Selection of china and glass is another important matter. A cup of one
pattern set in a saucer of another pattern is an offence to the
invalid’s eye, and to let a person suffering with pain put to his lips
a glass with a piece chipped out of the edge is a cruelty.

In the service offered to an invalid the same is true as of all other      102
service. If it be done by rule and method, as if by the working of
machinery that has no heart in it, it will fall far short of what it
might easily be made by a little care and thoughtfulness. If, for
instance, a chop--which it is well understood the patient must eat
plain--be served with a little bunch of cress, the fresh green feeds
the eye, and the invalid is conscious that thought has been given to
her pleasure as well as to her needs. A whole train of sad and weary
thoughts has been changed by one cheerful yellow <DW29> hastily dropped
on a tray so that it lay smiling between a cup and a cream jug.

A waitress who cares how she does her work in the sick-room and out of
it will soon find that the attention she gives is appreciated. It will
not be long before china closets which have been locked will be
opened, old glass will be brought out for occasional use, and great
pleasure expressed by its owners that it is again possible to have it
handled without fear of its being destroyed. This care bestowed upon       103
inanimate things is one indication of a truthful character, and the
waitress will find herself treated, not like one who must be watched
and in a sense suspected, but with the confidence which is her right,
and which will give her the sense of being an individual, not merely
part of the household machinery.

When confidence in her is once established there are many ways by
which it will be expressed. She will be asked to execute little
commissions given only to one who can be thoroughly relied upon. She
may be left in charge of the house, with the direction of other
workers under her, or she may be asked to go to the country-house to
direct and assist in its arrangement before the family take up their
summer residence there.

All this will give variety to what otherwise might be in danger of
becoming a trifle monotonous; but it is not the variety which is the
greatest advantage. It is the fact that she is not a mere worker, not
a machine which may do its work with absolute exactness, never losing      104
a minute, and always being in its own place. She will do her work with
exactness, and may be relied upon like a machine; but she will also
use her power to help, to suggest, and to put in motion forces outside
of herself and her routine.

When the best relationship has been established between employers and
those who are employed, the question of change will assume a very
different aspect. Questions which ordinarily make an end of any
contract entered into will be simply the subject of explanation, or at
the most of arbitration, and although others may come and go, the
waitress will stay on year after year.

When she does decide to go she will leave with regret what has been to
her really a home, and, on the part of her employer, the most genuine
regret will be felt and expressed. Great interest will be taken in all
that concerns her future welfare, gifts will be prepared by each
member of the household, the wedding will be made merry, and good          105
wishes will follow her to the new home, where it will be hoped that
she may have as much comfort as she has given to others during her
years of faithful work as a waitress.




                    Truthfulness in the Waitress                           106


A waitress should be truthful in spirit, as well as truthful regarding
the letter of her contract. We are told sometimes that this is
impossible; that it is necessary to tell some falsehoods in order to
secure a good place, or to keep one after being in it for a time. But
this is not so. An expert waitress need never be without a place, and
she need never stay in a place for lack of another after real
difficulties have arisen in her way.

How do I know this? Because perfect service never goes a-begging, and
if her work is perfect there will always be a demand for it. Think of
our servants of the public--the clergy and the doctors. Does a
minister who satisfies his congregation ever lack a congregation? Does
a successful doctor have to drive about looking for patients? We know      107
very well that he does not; we know that his office is crowded day
after day. How did he come to be successful? First he studied, and
then he practised, and when he began to practise he found that there
were many things which he did not know. Was he content with the
knowledge he had acquired? By no means. He studied more, and put the
new knowledge into practice. How did he gain the entire confidence of
the persons he serves? By doing well what he professed to do, and by
being ready for any emergency. And this is what a waitress must do.
First she must study, then she must practise, then she must study more
and practise more, and she must be equal to emergencies.

If word comes to a doctor that a child has fallen down-stairs and
broken its arm, does the doctor send back word that his hours are over
and he cannot go to the child? And if an accident happens in the
waitress’s department--if a piece of ceiling falls, for instance,
when she is about to go up to bed--will she say that her hours are         108
over, and some one else must clean up the mortar in the pantry? If the
doctor thinks he is all through for the evening and another patient
comes in, will he dismiss the late comer without a word? And if, after
a table is all laid, an extra guest comes in, will the waitress fail
to lay another cover quietly and quickly?

Yes, many will say, so many patients, so much money. But it is not so.
The persons who take up a doctor’s time and try his patience almost
beyond words are often those who have no idea of the value of his
time, and who have no money to pay him for it.

When a maid calls herself a waitress she is not truthful unless she
has studied her work until she is familiar with it, and this
familiarity can come only after some amount of practice.

Truthfulness includes honesty, and to be honest means very much more
than being above taking money or jewels which belong to others. To be      109
true and honest in spirit is to have an intelligent care of whatever
is put in a worker’s charge and which belongs to her department. It is
not honest to let a beautiful damask cloth with a little rent in it go
to the laundress without first reporting the rent to the owner of the
cloth. It is not honest to let a fine carver rust for lack of
attention at the proper time. It is not true that no gas is wasted
when a gas stove is left partly turned on all night near an open
window.

We have often heard that time is money. Now if one does not understand
her work as she may understand it if she will study, she is constantly
taking other people’s time, which we are told is other people’s money.

That all the world is not honest, that we are not always treated from
the standpoint of strictly fair dealing, makes no difference to her.
She is not other people, she is herself.

Among the men in one of our Eastern States whose business it is to lay
stone walls is one who has an especial talent for the work. Stones         110
of any shape answer his purpose. He does not ask any direction, he
does not have to make any measurements, or use any stakes or a line to
lay his stones by. And in the whole State there are no such beautiful
walls as this man lays. Does he ever have to tell a falsehood in order
to get work? Does he ever talk about other persons interfering with
him? Or does he need to care what other persons think? He does his
work so much better than other men that it will always be sought. And
although he has a special talent for it, he does not let that make him
careless. His is true work, honest work, and so long as he keeps his
health and there are stone walls to lay he need never rest with idle
hands.

With regard to the privileges granted to workers it is not easy to lay
down any set of rules that will meet the requirements of every
household in the land. In some cities rules are in force to which the
majority of families conform, and they seem to answer very well. But       111
the needs of a family where there are little children differ from the
needs of a family of adults. A larger number in a household will
necessitate arrangements the need of which does not exist in one made
up of a few members. In order to consult the varied tastes and arrange
for the comfort of all, special hours must sometimes be considered,
and it is not wise for a worker to start out by saying that she must
have such and such times for her own. The time offered by the existing
arrangements may be, if she will stop to think, much better for her.

It is important to comprehend exactly what is promised, so that there
may be no mistake and no disappointment on either side. The time
stipulated as belonging to a worker is certainly her own; the rest of
her time as certainly belongs to the person to whom she has agreed to
give it. But if her sister were going to be married, a girl would feel
very grieved if she were not allowed to go to the wedding, and yet         112
there was nothing said about the wedding when she promised her time.
Will she realize the equal importance of the occasion if the lady of
the house is obliged to ask her to give up one of her evenings because
of some especial entertainment?

There is very little doubt about her securing the proper privileges
with regard to outings. Something quite as important is that she
should care about her sleeping accommodations. Ladies say that again
and again they have taken pleasure in fitting up cosey rooms for the
maids who were to do the work of the household, and they have been
grievously disappointed to find that their efforts were not in the
least appreciated. No care was taken to preserve order and neatness;
in fact, carelessness had been so universal that they had lost all
heart about it. What is needed is plenty of fresh air, with an
opportunity to preserve thorough cleanliness, and no right-minded lady
will fail to respect a maid who makes a point of claiming these
privileges.

Where many privileges are not granted one is inclined to place the         113
blame no more upon the employers than upon the employed, for I think
we must all admit that, aside from some notable exceptions, waitresses
have not so comported themselves as to make the persons they served
take a keen interest in them.

When a reform is attempted there are always some rough places to be
gotten over at first, some pioneer work to be done; but it is possible
for a new order of waitresses to raise this department of women’s work
to such a standard of excellence that there will be no need to ask for
privileges; they will be granted without the asking.




                            Adaptability                                   114


When a waitress has gone into a home, and has made a contract which is
satisfactory to herself and to her employer, she will need to adapt
herself to her new surroundings, as she must not expect that they will
in all things adapt themselves to her.

The first thing to which she may have to adapt herself is the fact
that she is not looked upon as a person in whom one can repose perfect
confidence. But she must remember that waitresses of the old order
have in many cases abused their position, that they have sent too much
china and cut glass to the ash barrel for any owner of such valuable
articles to consider these and other belongings safe in new hands.

A waitress will, if possible, go into a new home in the morning, and
not attempt a dinner until she has had time to take the bearings of        115
dining-room and pantry. While she is serving luncheon, and is going
back and forth from the pantry, she need not be surprised if she hears
a conversation something like this:

“The new waitress does very nicely, mamma.”

“Yes, a new broom sweeps clean, my dear.”

“But she looks as if she knew how to work.”

“She may know how; but I suppose she will be like all the rest. I have
no faith in any of them any more.”

The new waitress need not be angry. She need not be even enough
disturbed to let the blood rush into her cheeks, for she knows that
she is competent and she can afford to bide her time.

She will make some haste with the luncheon dishes, for there is an
important piece of work to be done before dinner. She will take out
her memorandum-book, with its nicely sharpened pencil, and begin to
make a list of all chipped china and glass and of all silver that
is marred. The lady of the house will be expecting questions, and          116
should be asked to make this possible by showing where all pieces are
kept which she wishes to have used. If objection be made, it is only
necessary to say modestly but firmly that a contract which holds one
responsible for all breakage makes it necessary that such a list
should be made. The truth of this will at once be apparent and full
opportunity given.

When finished, a copy of the list should be taken to the lady of the
house, that she may compare it with the original and so avoid any
mistake.

Next to making a list of the dishes should come a thorough study of
the pantry. This it will not be possible to make all in one day. The
new waitress will not be discouraged by anything that may be in the
pantry, for what seems a defect the first day may prove a merit the
next. Some things cannot be changed. The window, the sink, the shelves
for dishes, are fixtures, and these are some of the things to which        117
she must adapt herself. There are other things which may be made to
adapt themselves to the new-comer.

When she finds something which she would like to have changed she
should make a note of it, and not feel sure that she is right until
she has tested it well. She should go on making notes until she has
put down everything which in her judgment seems necessary. The list
should then be well studied, and anything which cannot be remedied
should be crossed off.

When she has been in the house long enough to know whether she is
likely to please; when she has at least shown that she understands her
business, she will show the list to her employer and tell her what
things she would like to have in order to make her work more
convenient. Possibly a lady may consider her pantry already perfect
and be annoyed by any suggestion; but it is more than likely that she
will be gratified to find that she has some one in her employ who
really cares how and by what means the work is done. She will probably     118
say that she is glad to see such a list; that the articles asked for
she was careful to provide when she began her house-keeping, but she
found they were neglected, broken, or thrown away. The list would
probably be something like this:

Neat brass hooks for fresh white apron, brooms, and dusters.

Three new hand towels.

Zinc dish drainer.

Small towel rack.

Lamp in bracket, to throw light on dishes to be washed in the evening.

Two dozen towels for glass and fine china.

Two new salad cloths.

If the lady be a busy person she may imagine that some of these
requests are unnecessary and therefore unreasonable; but she will go
into the pantry to see what is already there. She will not be
surprised to find her salad cloths with the silver cleaning materials,
for she has had too much experience to be surprised at anything. She       119
will sort out the hand towels from the lamp cloths, and see that she
needs new towels for silver and china. It is more than probable that
the rack, the hook, and the drainer will be promised, although no time
may be set for the fulfilment of the promise.

Now is the opportunity to prove that real thought has been given to
the matter. The waitress should be ready to say, “To-morrow will be my
afternoon out. If you like I will get the hooks; they will cost so
many cents apiece. Where I get those I can get a small towel rack for
so much. I have measured the sink and find that the drainer needs to
be so long and so wide, and I know that the plumber three blocks away
will make it for so much.” The amounts will be so small, while the
convenience will be so apparent, that she will probably be
commissioned to get them at once. She must be sure of her prices and
in no case must she exceed them. She must not ask for one thing on one
day and another thing on another day. All requests should be made at       120
one time, and nothing further asked for until it becomes absolutely
necessary.

When she has adapted herself to her pantry and her pantry to herself,
so that she can do her work in the best possible manner, she may turn
her attention more entirely to the peculiarities of the family which
she has agreed to serve, for it goes without saying that they have
their peculiarities just as she has her own. For instance, we will
suppose that one of the gentlemen always wishes butter at dinner, no
matter how many sauces have been provided. Half of the time he does
not touch it; but he wishes it there. She cannot change that any more
than she can make the near-sighted lady see by taking away her
glasses. What she is to do is never to forget that butter. Some
persons have a habit of saying, “No, thank you,” when a dish is
offered, and asking for it the moment it has been set down. She can
soon determine if any one who does this is at the table and need not
be “upset” by the request. If she can learn to make a bit of a pause       121
at the plate--not disrespectfully, but by way of suggestion that some
of the dish may be cared for--she will soon have no trouble.

In every household there are some things that will puzzle an ignorant
girl and some that may puzzle even a competent, well-trained waitress;
but study and careful thought will make her find the best way to
promote the general comfort and keep each person at table happy and
serene.




                        A Servant’s Contract                               122


One reason of the lack of confidence which exists between mistress and
maid is the constant change which takes place between the employers
and the employed. If a remedy is to be found for this--and a remedy
must be found--it will be necessary to know the reason why, with some
exceptions, maids are seeking good places, and good places are waiting
for the right maids to come and fill them.

Without doubt the chief reason is the lack of a clear understanding
between mistress and maid at the beginning of an engagement. Promises
are made very much at hap-hazard, and a contract entered into, the
conditions of which are not fully understood by either side. To avoid
mistakes it is necessary first to understand the meaning of a contract.

A contract is an agreement between two or more persons by which            123
something is promised on one side in return for something promised by
the other side. A contract is just as binding upon one party as upon
the other. It is not something to be kept on one side, while it lets
the other go free of responsibility. If responsibility be shirked by
one party, then the other is at liberty to consider the contract
broken, and decline to keep his part of it. For instance, a carpenter
agrees to build a house for a certain sum of money. If he fails to
build the house, the man for whom he agreed to build it does not feel
bound to pay him anything for promising to build it. If a caterer
agrees to furnish refreshments for an evening entertainment, and fails
to send them, the person who had given the order would certainly not
feel obliged to pay the bill, if presented.

In the case we are considering the contract is between two persons. It
is an agreement by which a certain amount of service of a specified        124
kind is promised for a stipulated sum of money and a home.

Every maid who goes into a home says that she will do certain things,
and that she will do them well. She claims that she knows how to do
and will do her work in the best manner. On this understanding she is
employed, and is promised a certain sum of money in addition to her
bed and her board. Often a few days prove that there has been a
mistake. In the first place, she does not know how to do her work in a
first-class manner, and in the second place she does not try to do it
well. Her employer talks with her about it, tries to show her better
ways, begs her not to be careless, all to no purpose. After a fair
trial she is told that she will not answer the requirements of the
place. Does it ever occur to her to take less than the stipulated
wages? By no means. She has not at all come up to the promises of her
agreement; or, in other words, she has broken her contract. This would
certainly justify the party on the other side in breaking hers to the      125
extent of paying only for the kind of work that has been given,
instead of paying for the first-class work that was promised. But
ladies do not like to be called mean, and they pay out their money
knowing that they have not received the value of it.

In order for a waitress to know whether she has fulfilled her part of
a contract, and whether the blame rests with her, she will need to
understand very fully what she has contracted to do.

Most important of all in this connection is the promise not to abuse
the china and silver. We all know more or less about the china
craze--the collecting of pieces of old china, some of it not so fine
as may be bought in the shops to-day, but old. This old china has
passed through a great many hands, and been washed a great many times.
Some of it has passed from pantry to pantry, as it became the
possession of one family after another, and a great deal of it is
neither broken, cracked, nor chipped. This proves that somebody, or a
good many somebodies, must have known how to wash china without            126
injuring it in any way, and what has been done in this way may be done
again. It will not be done by ignorant girls who have no idea of
learning the best ways; but it will be done by the many who are
anxious to do always what is right, even at some inconvenience to
themselves.

Superstition must be gotten rid of in the beginning. Some persons say,
“There! I have broken that; now I must break three things before I can
stop;” or, “Now I have begun to break, there is no telling when I can
stop,” as if they were not responsible for the damage done. For this
there is one sure remedy, and possibly one only, which has been tried
in a number of cases, and always with success. The person who breaks
china or defaces silver must, so far as is possible, repair from her
own purse the damage done.

But accidents? Yes, once in a lifetime a dumb-waiter breaks down, a
cleat under a shelf gives way, or a child runs against a door and
knocks a tray full of dishes out of a steady hand. All these are           127
accidents. There is no question about them: they could not have been
helped. When anything cannot be provided against it may be called an
accident; when it happens from lack of foresight it may be called
carelessness.

One point to be considered is that the articles which a maid destroys
are often too valuable for her to replace. Even if she has the
willingness, she has not the money to buy pieces of equal value. All
the more should she provide herself with all possible safeguards
against the destruction of other persons’ property. A contract might
be entered into which would be something like this: A certain sum of
money is promised to a waitress in return for work performed in an
acceptable manner. If at the end of each month no china, glass, or
silver is broken or defaced, then one-fifth or one-quarter of the sum
promised is to be added to the original amount. If pieces are broken
or marred, then the extra dollars are to go towards replacing what has     128
been spoiled. That is, if the maid keeps her contract by doing her
work in the manner she has promised, she will be paid for good work
and careful management. If she breaks her contract by carelessness and
heedless handling, there is some slight provision made against the
damage done.

When the idea is once grasped that a contract is not a one-sided
affair, when a maid realizes that she is as much bound by it as her
employer, then she will think before she promises, and she will not
undertake more than she has capacity and training to perform. Then she
will not expect to be paid for what she has not done, and she will
have too much self-respect to accept wages which she has not earned.

Another thing which will not fail to be discussed by reformers of this
branch of household service which we are considering is the question
of tips and souvenirs. We are told that the reason why the system of
tips prevails on railway trains and in hotels is because the wages of      129
the employés are not sufficient for their support. This is not true of
all these workers; and if it be true of some, it need not be true of
the household. A really good waitress can always command a proper
return for her services. If she has brains enough to become a model
waitress she will have sense enough to know what her services are
worth, and her demands will be gladly acceded to when she has proved
that her work is worth the price which she has placed upon it. This
point being settled, she will be satisfied with the stated amount, and
bend her mind to her work without any idea of attracting the favor of,
or receiving tips from, any member or guest of the household. How else
can she preserve her self-respect?

Souvenirs are not tips, and may be considered. The new order of
waitresses will so conduct themselves that after a time no one will
think of offering them tips; but there are occasions when souvenirs
are quite suitable, and may be accepted with perfect propriety.

Suppose that preparations are made some morning for a child’s party to     130
take place in the afternoon. A little guest confides to the waitress
that she is going to wear her sweet white dress that was finished just
before she left home. She begs her nurse to show it, and the nurse
goes to a trunk to take it out. Alas for the child’s hopes! The sash,
which is an important part of the dress, is hopelessly crushed, so
that it is not fit to wear. Nurse is too busy to freshen it up;
another dress must answer. The waitress may not half comprehend what a
terrible disappointment this is to the child, yet she carries away the
sash, and, long before time for the party, brings it back as smooth
and fresh as it was in the beginning.

When the mamma returns she listens to a wonderful tale of distress and
joy, and it means far more to her than to the child. When she is about
to leave the house, if she wishes to show that she remembers how
thoughtful the waitress had been, and offers her some pretty gift,         131
there is no reason in the world why she should not accept it with
pleasure.

If old people are among the guests, there are many little things
outside the line of prescribed duties which may sometimes be done for
them. Elderly persons are so grateful to those who see and remember
their especial needs and wishes that it seems quite natural and proper
that they should offer gifts to those who are thoughtful for them.

But the things I speak of are those which a true waitress will do
wherever she is placed. She will do them for a person without money as
quickly as for one who has money. She will do them not because she is
a waitress, but because she is a woman--a woman with a warm heart and
a willing hand.


                              THE END




                      BOOKS FOR THE HOUSEHOLD.


THE TECHNIQUE OF REST. By ANNA C. BRACKETT. Small 16mo, Cloth, 75
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THE HOUSE COMFORTABLE. By AGNES BAILEY ORMSBEE. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00.

WHAT TO EAT--HOW TO SERVE IT. By CHRISTINE TERHUNE HERRICK. 16mo,
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HOUSE-KEEPING MADE EASY. By CHRISTINE TERHUNE HERRICK. 16mo, Cloth,
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              PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK

☞ _The above works are for sale by all booksellers, or will be sent by
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End of Project Gutenberg's The Expert Waitress, by Anne Frances Springsteed

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