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                 [Picture: Portraits of two Iron-Miners]

                          [Picture: Title Page]





THE
FOREST OF DEAN;
AN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT,
DERIVED FROM PERSONAL OBSERVATION, AND OTHER SOURCES, PUBLIC,
PRIVATE, LEGENDARY, AND LOCAL.


                         BY H. G. NICHOLLS, M.A.,
              PERPETUAL CURATE OF HOLY TRINITY, DEAN FOREST.

                      John Murray, Albemarle Street.
                                  1858.




PREFACE.


Disappointment expressed by others and felt by myself that a History of
the Forest of Dean should never have appeared in print, and an impression
that a considerable amount of interesting information relative to it
might be brought together, combined I may add with the fact that there
seemed no probability of such a work being otherwise undertaken until old
usages and traditions had passed away, have induced me to attempt its
compilation.  I here venture to publish the fruit of my labours, in the
hope that the reader may derive some portion of that pleasure which the
prosecution of the work has afforded me, and trusting that the same
indulgent consideration which led the officers of the Government, the
gentlemen of the neighbourhood, and many of the intelligent Foresters to
aid in the execution, will by them and the public be extended to the work
itself.

I have endeavoured to make it as complete as possible by supplying every
known circumstance, mostly in the words of the original narrator, and yet
trying so to harmonize the whole as to engage the attention of the
general reader, but more particularly of the residents in the district,
by acquainting them with the past and present state of one of the most
interesting and remarkable localities in the kingdom.

                                                                  H. G. N.

_July_, 1858.




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.



                                                            PAGE
Portraits of two Iron-miners in their working dress         _Frontispiece_
Effigy of a Forest Free Miner                               _Titlepage_
The Buck Stone                                              3
South side of the Nave in St Briavel's Church               8
Entrance to St Briavel's Castle from the North              11
The Speech House                                            51
Court Room in the Speech House                              64
Norman Capital in Staunton Church                           99
Ancient Font in Staunton Church                             100
Interior of the Debtors' Prison in St Briavel's Castle      114
Court Room in St Briavel's Castle                           115
Holy Trinity Church and Schools, Harry Hill                 162
Christ Church, Berry Hill                                   166
St Paul's Church, Park End                                  169
St John's Church and Schools, Cinderford                    171
Lydbrook Church and Schools                                 173
Stone Coffin-lids at Flaxley Abbey                          180
The Refectory of Flaxley Abbey                              181
Open Timber Roof of the Abbot's Room at Flaxley Abbey       181
St Anthony's Well                                           182
The original Chapel at Flaxley, as it appeared in 1712      189
Flaxley Church, and Abbey in the distance                   190
The Tomb of John de Yrall, Forester in Fee, in Newland      200
Churchyard
The King's Bowbearer, from an ancient Tomb in Newland       201
Churchyard
"Jack of the Yat," supposed to be the oldest oak in the     207
Forest
The "Newland Oak"                                           208
An Oak, near York Lodge                                     209
The Devil's Chapel, in the Scowles, near Bream              213
"King Arthur's Hall," on the "Great Doward"                 215
Effigy of a Forest Free Miner, reduced from a brass of      217
the fifteenth century in Newland Church
Leather Sole of a Shoe, found in the old workings           218
Iron Mattock-head, 9 inches long, found in the old          218
workings
Oak Shovel, 30 inches long, found in the old workings       218
Light Moor Colliery                                         241
General View of the Centre of the Forest, from the top of   244
Ruardean Hill
Geological Map of the Forest                                245
Vertical Section of the Plump Hill, according to Mr         248
White's diagram
Forest of Dean _to face page_                               15
General Map of the Forest of Dean                           _at the end_





CHAPTER I.
A.D. 1307-1612.


Origin of the name "Dean"?--The "Buck Stone," and other Druidical
remains--"The Scowles," &c., and other ancient iron-mines, worked in the
time of the Romans--Symmond's Yat, and other military
earthworks--Domesday Book, and investment of this Forest in the
Crown--William I., and probable date of Free Miners' Franchise--Castle of
St. Briavel's first built; Giraldus--Flaxley Abbey founded--King John at
Flaxley and St. Briavel's--The constables of St. Briavel's and wardens of
the Forest--Date of the ruins of St. Briavel's Castle--Iron forges
licensed by Henry III.--Perambulation of 1282, and first "Justice
seat"--Seventy-two "itinerant forges" in the Forest--Date of Miners' laws
and privileges--Perambulation of 1302--Edward I., grants in the
Forest--Newland Church founded--Free miners summoned to the sieges of
Berwick, &c.--Edward II., grants in the Forest--Edward III.,
ditto--Richard II., ditto--Henry IV., ditto--Henry V., ditto--Henry VI.,
ditto--Severn barges stopped by Foresters--Edward IV., and retreat hither
of the Earl Rivers and Sir J. Woodville--Edward VI. farmed the Forest to
Sir A. Kingston--Design of the Spaniards to destroy the Forest--Papers
from Sir J. Caesar's collection, viz. Sir J. Winter's negotiations
relative to the iron-works, &c.--Blast furnaces erected.

The district known as "the Forest of Dean" is situated within that part
of Gloucestershire which is bounded by the rivers Severn and Wye.  Its
name is of doubtful origin.  Was it so called from its proximity to the
town of Mitcheldean, or Dean Magna, mentioned in Domesday Book, and
which, agreeably to its name, is situated in a wooded valley, the word
"Dean," or "Dene," being Saxon, and signifying a dale or den?--or do we
accept the statement of Giraldus, and some other writers, that the Forest
of Dean obtained its name from the Danes sheltering themselves in it,
secured by its shades and thickets from the retaliation of the
neighbouring people, whose country they had devastated?--Or, again, do we
"fancy," with Camden, that "by cutting off a syllable it is derived from
Arden, which word the Gauls and Britons heretofore seemed to have used
for a wood, since two very great forests, the one in Gallia Belgica, the
other amongst us in Warwickshire, are called by one and the same name,
Arden"?  This latter suggestion Evelyn, in his 'Sylva,' accepts, in which
he is supported by the fact that the name of "Dean" is first met with in
William the Norman's survey.

Probably the earliest trace of this locality being inhabited exists in
the Druidical rocks which are found on the high lands on the
Gloucestershire side of the Wye.  The chief of them is "the Buck Stone,"
so called perhaps from the deer which sheltered beneath it, or else from
its fancied resemblance to that animal when viewed from certain distant
spots.  It is a huge mass of rock poised on the very crest of Staunton
Hill, which being of a pyramidal form, and almost 1000 feet high, renders
the stone on its summit visible in one direction as far as Ross, nine
miles off.  A careful examination of the structure of the rock, and
particularly of the character of its base, will show that its position is
natural.  But that the Druids had appropriated it to sacrificial
purposes, is evident from a rudely hollowed stone which lies adjacent.
In shape "the Buck Stone" is almost flat on the top, and four-sided, the
north-east side measuring sixteen feet five inches, the north seventeen
feet, the south-west nine feet, and the south side twelve feet.  The face
of the rock on which it rests <DW72>s considerably, and the bearing point
is only two feet across.  This part may be an unbroken neck of rock, but
apparently the entire block has crushed down upon its base, as though,
from having once formed the extremity of the portion of cliff near, it
had fallen away, and had accidentally balanced itself in its present
position. {2}  The texture of "the Buck Stone" is similar to that of the
slab of rock on which it rests, commonly known as the old red sandstone
conglomerate of quartz pebbles (a stratum of which extends through the
whole district), exceedingly hard in most of its veins, but very
perishable in others; and hence perhaps the form and origin of this
singular object.

                        [Picture: The Buck Stone]

In addition to the above, there is a large mass of grit-stone, from nine
to ten feet high, standing in a field on the north side of the road
leading from Bream to St. Briavel's, named "the Long Stone."  Another,
called by the same name, and of similar character, occurs on the
north-east side of the Staunton and Coleford road; but nothing remarkable
is known of either of them, only their weather-worn appearance shows that
they have been exposed to the action of the elements during many
centuries.

Next in order of time to the above remains are the ancient Iron-mines,
locally termed "Scowles," {4} which were undoubtedly worked when this
island was occupied by the Romans.  This appears certain from the coins,
&c., which have been found deeply buried in the heaps of iron cinders
derived from the workings of these mines.  A highly interesting MS.
Dissertation, written about the year 1780 by Mr. Wyrrall, on the ancient
iron-works of the Forest, a subject on which he was well informed, being
a resident in the neighbourhood, is conclusive on this head.  He
states:--"Coins, fibula, and other things known to be in use with that
people (the Romans), have been frequently found in the beds of cinders at
certain places: this has occurred particularly at the village of
Whitchurch, between Ross and Monmouth, where large stacks of cinders have
been found, and some of them so deep in the earth, eight or ten feet
under the surface, as to demonstrate without other proof that they must
have lain there for a great number of ages.  The present writer has had
opportunities of seeing many of these coins and fibula, &c., which have
been picked up by the workmen in getting the cinders at this place, in
his time; but especially one coin of Trajan, which he remembers to be
surprisingly perfect and fresh, considering the length of time it must
have been in the ground.  Another instance occurs to his recollection of
a little image of brass, about four inches long, which was then found in
the cinders at the same place, being a very elegant female figure, in a
dancing attitude, and evidently an antique by the drapery."

Numerous additional traces of the same people have been discovered in
this neighbourhood, viz., a Roman pavement, tesserae, bricks, and tiles
at Whitchurch, already mentioned; remains of Ariconium, a town, it seems,
of blacksmiths, at Bollitree; a camp, bath, and tessellated pavement at
Lydney; and coins to a large amount, indicative of considerable local
prosperity, on the Coppet Woodhill, at Lydbrook, Perry Grove, and
Crabtree Hill--of Philip, Gallienus, Victorinus, Claudius Gothicus, &c.

Crabtree Hill being situated near the centre of the Forest, renders the
discovery of Roman antiquities there especially interesting.  On 27th
August, 1839, a man who was employed to raise some stone in Crabtree
Hill, of which several heaps were lying on the surface, in turning over
the stone found about twenty-five Roman coins.  The next day, in another
heap about fifty yards distant, he found a broken jar or urn of baked
clay, and 400 or 500 coins lying by it, the coins being for the most part
those of Claudius II., Gallienus, and Victorinus.  The spot is rather
high ground, but not a hill or commanding point, and there do not appear
any traces of a camp near it.  Some of the stones seemed burnt, as if the
building had been destroyed by fire.  There was no appearance of mortar,
but the stones had evidently been used in building, and part of the
foundation of a wall remained visible.  A silver coin of Aurelius was
likewise picked up.

Similar discoveries have been made in other places.  At Seddlescombe, in
Sussex, one of the earliest iron-making localities in the kingdom, Mr.
Wright, in his interesting work entitled 'Wanderings of an Antiquary,'
mentions several Roman coins, especially one of the Emperor Diocletian,
having been met with in a bed of iron cinders, manifestly of great
antiquity, since four large oaks stood upon its surface.

An interval of a few hundred years brings us to the probable date of the
next class of antiquities, viz. the military earthworks yet traceable in
the neighbourhood.  They are four in number, commencing with the lines of
circumvallation which enclose the promontory of Beachley; next, the camp
and entrenchments on the high lands of Tidenham Chase; then, a camp near
the Bearse Common; and, as a termination to the chain, the triple <DW18>
defending Symmond's Yat.  Some have regarded these remains as forming the
southern termination of Offa's <DW18>, which that sovereign constructed
about the year 760, to prevent the Welsh from invading his kingdom of
Mercia; but they are not sufficiently uniform or continuous to warrant
such a conclusion.  They seem rather to be connected with the incident
which the Chronicles of Florentius Vigorniensis relate as taking place
A.D. 912:--"The Pagan pirates, who nearly nineteen years before had
retired from Britain, approaching by the province of Gaul, called
Lydivinum, return with two leaders, Ohterus and Hroaldus, to England,
and, sailing round West Saxonia and Cornubia, at length reach the mouth
of the river Sabrina (Severn), and, without delay, invade the northern
lands of the British, and, exploring all the parts adjoining the bank of
the river, pillage most of them.  Cymelgeac, a British bishop who
occupied the plains of Yrcenefeld (Archenfield), was likewise taken; and
they, not a little rejoicing, carry him off to their ships, whom, not
long after, King Edward ransomed for forty pounds of silver.  Soon after,
the whole force, leaving their ships, return to the aforesaid plains, and
make their way for the sake of plunder; but suddenly as many of the
inhabitants as possible of the adjoining towns of Hereford and Glevum
(Gloucester) assemble, and give them battle.  Hroaldus, the leader of the
enemy, and his brother Ohterus, the other leader, with a large part of
the army, are slain.  The rest are put to flight, and driven by the
Christians into a certain fence (septum), where they are at length
besieged, until they give hostages, so that as fast as possible they
depart King Edward's realm."  Mr. Fryer, of Coleford, ingeniously
supposes that Symmond's Rock was the scene of the above contest, which
may possibly be correct.

Edward the Confessor is stated in Domesday Book to have exempted the
Forest of Dean from taxation, with the object apparently of preserving it
from spoliation.  The exact terms used are, "_has tras c' cessit rex E.
quietas a geldo pro foresta custod_," manifesting an interest in its
protection on the part of the Crown, to which no doubt it had now become
annexed.  Probably in those early days the King possessed the right to
all lands not under cultivation or already apportioned, just as the
Sovereign of our own day exercises the right in our colonial territories,
and makes specific grants to private individuals.  Thus, Mr. Rudder, in
his 'History of Gloucestershire,' remarks that "originally all the lands
of the subject are derived from the Crown, and our forests may have been
made when the ancient kings had the greater part in their own hands."
Agreeably with which principle, combined with the attractions which the
Forest of Dean possessed as a hunting ground, it was sometimes visited
for the sports of the chase by William the Conqueror, who in the year
1069 was thus diverting himself when he received information that the
Danes had invaded Yorkshire and taken its chief city.  Roused to fury by
these tidings, he swore "by the splendour of the Almighty" that "not one
Northumbrian should escape his revenge;" an oath which he put into prompt
and terrible execution.  It seems not improbable that upon one of these
royal visits the miners of the Forest applied for and obtained their
"customes and franchises," which, even in the less remote days of Edward
I., were granted, as the record of them declares, "time out of minde."
The demand which the Conqueror made upon the citizens of Gloucester for
thirty-six "Icres" of iron yearly, each of which comprised ten bars, made
at their forges, six in number, wherewith to furnish his fleet with
nails, was procured doubtless from this Forest, for which impost the
above-named grant was possibly designed as a compensation.

The 'Annals' of Giraldus, relative to the reign of Henry I., inform us
that the Castle of St. Briavel's, or Brulails was now built by Milo
Fitz-Walter, with the design of confirming the royal authority in the
neighbourhood, and of checking the inroads of the Welsh; but, extensive
as its ruins still are, they seem to contain no trace of so early a
period.  The only vestige of that age is seen in the Parish Church, which
stands opposite the north entrance of the castle.  Henry created
Fitz-Walter Earl of Hereford, and committed the castle of St. Briavel's,
and the district adjoining, to his care.  The 'Itinerary' of the same
writer speaks of "the noble Forest of Dean, by which Gloucester was amply
supplied with iron and venison."  Tithes of the latter were given by this
King to the Abbey there.

        [Picture: South side of the Nave in St. Briavel's Church]

In the fifth year of the succeeding reign of Stephen, by whom the gifts
just mentioned were confirmed, the Forest of Dean, that is, its royal
quitrents, were granted to Lucy, Milo Fitz-Walter's third daughter, upon
her marrying Herbert Fitz-Herbert, the King's chamberlain, and progenitor
to the present Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery.  So profuse a gift on
such an occasion may seem almost incredible; but its tenure, we must
remember, was precarious, the Forest itself being continually exposed to
danger by its proximity to the Welsh border.  Mahel was this lady's
youngest brother, of whom Camden records that "the judgment of God
overtook him for his rapacious ways, inhumane cruelties, and boundless
avarice, always usurping other men's rights.  For, being courteously
treated at the Castle of St. Briavel's by Walter de Clifford, the castle
taking fire, he lost his life by the fall of a stone on his head from the
highest tower."  It should be observed, however, that, according to Sir
R. C. Hoare, Camden is mistaken in placing the scene of Mahel's
catastrophe in the Forest of Dean; Brendlais, or Bynllys, as mentioned by
Giraldus, being a small village on the road between Hereford and Hay,
where a stately tower marks the site of the ancient castle of the
Cliffords, in which most likely this tyrant lost his life.

In this year also, A.D. 1140, the Abbey of Flaxley was founded by Roger,
the Earl of Hereford's eldest son, by whom it was partially endowed, and
who named it "the Abbey of St. Mary de Dene," the site being formerly
included in the precincts of the Forest.  The institution of the Abbey
was confirmed by Henry II., who further enriched it by granting
permission to the monks to feed their cattle, hogs, &c., in the Forest,
repair their buildings with its timber, and have an iron-forge there.  In
course of years the Fitz-Herbert interest in the Forest and Castle of St.
Briavel's, passing through the families of Henry de Bohun and Bernard de
Newmarch, was released by the former to King John, who granted them at
the close of his reign to John de Monmouth.  The 'Itinerary' of this
monarch shows that he often visited the neighbourhood, no doubt for the
diversions of the chase, viz.:--


            A.D. 1207,  at Gloucester            Nov.  14, Wednesday.
                           St. Briavel's         ,,     15, Thursday.
                          ,,"                    ,,     16, Friday
                                                morning.
                           Flaxley               ,,  ,,  ,,   evening.
                           St. Briavel's         ,,     17, Saturday.
                           Hereford              ,,     18, Sunday.
                 1212,  at Flaxley               ,,      8, Thursday.
                          ,,                     ,,      9, Friday.
                           St. Briavel's         ,,     10, Saturday.
                          ,,                     ,,     11, Sunday.
                          ,,                     ,,     12, Monday.
                           Flaxley               ,,  ,,  Monday evening.
                 1213,  at St. Briavel's         ,,     28, Thursday.
                          ,,                     ,,     29, Friday.
                           Monmouth              ,,  ,,  Friday evening.
                          ,,                     ,,     30, Saturday.
                           St. Briavel's         ,,  ,,  ,,
                           Flaxley               ,,  ,,  ,,
                           Gloucester            ,,     30, Saturday.
                 1214,  at Braden's Coke         Dec.  11, Thursday.
                           Ashton                ,,  ,,  ,,
                           Flaxley               ,,  ,,  ,,


From this date Bigland, in his 'County History,' arranges nearly an
unbroken succession of the constables of St. Briavel's Castle, and
wardens of the Forest of Dean, viz.:--


A.D. 1215               17 King John            John de Monmouth.
     1260               44 Henry III.           Robert Waleran.
     1263               47  ,,                  John Giffard (Baron).
  ,,                      ,,                    Thomas de Clace.
     1282               12 Edward I.            William de Beauchamp Earl
                                                of Warwick.
     1289               19  ,,                  John de Bottourt
                                                (deprived).
     1291               21  ,,                  Thomas de Everty.
     1298               27  ,,                  John de Handeloe.
     1300               29  ,,                  Ralph de Abbenhalle.
     1307                1 Edward II.           John de Bottourt
                                                (restored).
     1308                2  ,,                  William de Stanre.
     1322               15  ,,                  Hugh Le Despenser
                                                (senior).
     1327               18  ,,                  John de Nyvers.
  ,,                    20  ,,                  John de Hardeshull.
     1341               14 Edward III.          Roger Clifford (Baron).
     1391               14 Richard II.          Thomas de Woodstock Duke
                                                of Gloucester.
     1436               14 Henry VI.            John Duke of Bedford.
     1459               38  ,,                  John Tiptoft Earl of
                                                Worcester.
     1466                6 Edward IV.           Richard Neville Earl of
                                                Warwick &c.
     1612                9 James I.             Henry Earl of Pembroke.
     1632               10 Charles I.           Philip  ,,
     1660                1 Charles II.          Henry Lord Herbert of
                                                Raglan Duke of Beaufort.
     1706                5 Queen Anne           Charles Earl of Berkeley.
     1700                9  ,,                  James  ,,
     1736                8 George II.           Augustus  ,,
     1755               27  ,,                  Norborne Berkeley Esq.
                                                Lord Bottetourt.
     1760                1 George III.          Frederic Augustus Earl of
                                                Berkeley.
     1814               54  ,,                  Henry Somerset Duke of
                                                Beaufort.
     1838                                       Chief Commissioner of
                                                Woods and Forests.


Judging from the architectural character of the remains of St. Briavel's
Castle, the whole of which seem to belong to the middle of the thirteenth
century, and closely to resemble in several features the neighbouring
castles of Chepstow and Goodrich, viz. in their entrances, angular-headed
arches, and three-cornered buttresses, the present building was probably
erected by John de Monmouth, at the cost of the Crown, paid out of the
increasing receipts which now accrued to it from the charges levied upon
the iron mines and forges at work in the district.  The latter, being
itinerant forges, were ordered to cease until the King, Henry III.,
should command otherwise, which appears to have led to the Chief Justice
in Eyre directing that none should have an iron-forge in the Forest
without a special licence from the Sovereign.

        [Picture: Entrance to St. Briavel's Castle from the North]

By royal permission the Abbot of Flaxley possessed both an itinerant and
a stationary forge; one of the former kind also belonged to the men of
Cantelupe.  Henry Earl of Warwick had likewise forges in his woods at
Lydney, as well as others in the Forest, and these formed no doubt but a
small part of the whole number.  The dimensions of these forges may be
judged of by the two at Flaxley consuming more than two oaks weekly, to
the destruction of much timber, in lieu of which the King gave the Abbey
872 acres of woodland, which still forms part of the property at the
present day, under the name of "the Abbot's Woods."

During the long reign of Henry III. pasturage was granted to the men of
Rodley, who also in common with the King's people might hunt the boar.
Commonage was likewise given to the Abbot of Flaxley.  The bailiwick of
Dean Magna was granted to Walter Wither.  The men of Awre were allowed,
by custom, pasturage in the Forest; those of Rodley, estover, dead and
dry wood, with pannage and food for cattle as well.

The earliest of the various perambulations of the Forest, in the ensuing
reign of Edward I., was in the year 1282, and comprised the peninsula
formed by the Severn and Wye, proceeding north-east as far as Newent, and
north to Ross, as in fact it had always done.  It may be also observed
that about this period the Abbot of Gloucester purchased thirty-six acres
of land in Hope Maloysell, held by Gilbert and Julian Lepiatte, receiving
also Thomas Dunn's gift of all his lands in the same parish.  The most
ancient of the justice seats for these parts sat the same year at
Gloucester Castle.  By its proceedings, some of the records of which
happily still exist, we learn that upwards of seventy-two "_Forgeae
errantes_," or moveable forges, were found here; that the sum which the
Crown charged for licensing them was at the rate of seven shillings a
year, viz. three shillings and six pence for six months, or one shilling
and nine pence a quarter; that a miner received one penny, or the worth
of it in ore, for each load brought to any of the King's ironworks; but
if conveyed out of the Forest the penny was paid to the Crown; and that
in those cases where a forge was farmed, forty-six shillings was charged.
{12}  No less than fifty-nine mines were let at this time to Henry de
Chaworth, who had besides forges at work in the Forest.

A careful examination of the oldest copy extant of 'The Miners' Laws and
Privileges,' regarded, as Mr. Wyrrall tells us, writing in the year 1780,
"as the Magna Charta of our miners and colliers," incontrovertibly proves
that it belongs to this period.  It was first printed by William Cooper,
at the Pelican in Little Britain, 1687, from a manuscript copy preserved
in the office of the Deputy Gaveller, to which a postscript is added,
"written out of a parchmt. roll, now in ye hands of Richard Morse of
Clowerwall, 7 June, 1673, by Tho: Davies."  Richard Morse was then one of
the deputy gavellers.  The date of the compilation has heretofore been
considered as determined by the wording of the short introduction with
which it is prefaced, commencing thus--"Bee itt in minde and Remembrance
what ye Customes and Franchises hath been that were granted tyme out of
Minde, and after in tyme of the Excellent and redoubted Prince, King
Edward, unto the Miners of the Forrest of Deane, and the Castle of St.
Briavells," &c., in which words it will be observed that only the name of
King Edward is mentioned, the number not being added, although for some
cause or other all modern copies insert "the Third," and hence the
impression that the collection was then formed; whereas the description
given in the paragraph immediately following, specifying what were then
the limits of the Forest, shows its date to be that of the first of the
Edwards, since the bounds are therein recorded as extending "between
Chepstowe Bridge and Gloucester Bridge, the halfe deale of Newent, Rosse
Ash, Monmouth Bridge, and soe farr into the Seassoames as the blast of a
horne or the voice of a man may bee heard."  But these limits ceased to
prevail soon after the beginning of the fourteenth century, and
consequently an earlier date must be assigned for the above record than
has commonly been given to it.

The body of the document, originally, it would seem, unbroken, as now
printed is divided into forty-two paragraphs or sections, but expressed
in very rude and involved phraseology, confirming its antiquity, as still
further appears by the nature of the incidents which it contains.  It
specifies, first of all, the franchises of the mine, meaning its
liberties or privileges, as not to be trespassed against, and consisting
apparently in this, that every man who possessed it might, with the
approval of the King's gaveller, dig for iron ore or coal where he
pleased, and have right of way for the carrying of it, although in
certain cases "forbids" to sell might be declared.  A third part of the
profits of the undertaking belonged to the King, whose gaveller called at
the works every Tuesday "between Mattens and Masse," and received one
penny from each miner, the fellowship supplying the Crown with twelve
charges of ore per week at twelve pence, or three charges of coal at one
penny.  Timber was allowed for the use of the works above and below
ground.  Only such persons as had been born and were abiding in the
Forest were to "visit" the mines, in working which the distance of a
stone's throw was always to be kept, and property in them might be
bequeathed.  The miners' clothes and light are mentioned, and the
standard measure called "bellis," to the exclusion of carts and "waynes."
It alludes to "the court of the wood," at the "speech" before the
Verderers, but more particularly to the court for debtors at St.
Briavel's Castle, and to the mine court, as regulated by the constable,
clerk, and gaveller, and the miners' jury of twelve, twenty-four, or
forty-eight, where all causes relating to the mines were to be heard.
"Three hands," or three witnesses, were required in evidence, and the
oath was taken with a stick of holly held in the hand.  The miners of
Mitchel Deane, Little Deane, and Ruer Deane are called "beneath the
wood."

It also appears that at Carleon, Newport, Barkley, Monmouth, and
Trelleck, the manufacture of iron was carried on by "smiths," who were
connected with smith-holders living in the Forest, and supplying the ore,
at each of which places it is remarkable that iron cinders have been
found.  The document concludes with the names of the forty-eight miners
by whom it was witnessed, confirmed, and sealed.

                  [Picture: Map of limits of the Forest]

Such then were the mining privileges and regulations existing amongst the
operatives of the Forest at this period, A.D. 1300, which by their
settled and methodical character bear out the statement made in the
preface to "the Customes," &c., that they had been then granted "time out
of mind," and consequently were more ancient than the sieges of Berwick,
to which it appears many of the Forest miners and bowmen were summoned,
and perhaps received for services then rendered their peculiar rights.

Another important characteristic of this reign (Edward I.) is the
unsettled state of the Forest boundaries, as indicated in the various
perambulations which were made about this time.  A record of that made in
1302 is preserved in the Tower of London, whilst the register of the
perambulation performed by Letters Patent the year following, exists in
Walter Froucester's transcript of it, in the possession of the Dean and
Chapter of Gloucester.  Both documents agree in setting forth the same
limits, no longer extending to Gloucester, Chepstow, and Monmouth, or
even including Hewelsfield, Alvington, Ailberton, Lydney, Purton, Box,
Rodley, Westbury, Blaisdon, Huntley, Longhope, Newent, Taynton,
Tibberton, Highnam, Churcham, and Bulley as formerly; but confining them,
as nearly as can now be determined, to the bounds laid down in the
accompanying map of the district.  It appears that these perambulations
were made by a numerous and important staff of officers, comprising four
King's justices especially appointed, the chief justice in Eyre, nine
foresters in fee, four verderers, and twenty-four jurors--such was the
importance then attached to those acts.

There are some further items of information extant of this date, viz. the
ten bailiwicks of "Abbenhalle, Blakeney, Berse, Bicknoure, Great Dean,
Little Dean, Stauntene, Le Lee, and Bleyght's Ballye, and Ruardean," held
respectively by Ralph de Abbenhalle, Walter de Astune, William Wodeard,
Cecilia de Michegros, the Constable of St. Briavel's Castle, Richard de
la More, John de la Lee, Alexander Bleyght, and Alexander de Byknore;
Henry de Chaworth had fifty-nine mines, and some forges; the timber wood
of Kilcote was held by Bogo de Knoville; William Bliss held 180 acres of
assart, and seventeen acres of meadow land; certain miners, named William
de Abbensale, Walter and Elys Page, had been found digging mine at
Ardlonde belonging to the Abbot of Flaxley, who at once removed them, and
filled up the place.  The question was now also raised as to the Crown
possessing the right of conferring the tithes of the "assarted" (rooted
up) Forest lands, not being within the bounds of any of the adjacent
churches; when it was decided in the affirmative, the King exercising the
claim in favour of the church of Newland, in consideration, probably, of
the lordship of the manor being held by him, and the whole being formerly
comprised in the Forest.  A considerable proportion of such of the
existing encroachments as are reputed the oldest pay tithes to Newland, a
circumstance confirmatory of their alleged antiquity. {16}

The records we possess of the ensuing reign of Edward II. afford the
interesting intelligence that on various public occasions the military
services of the Foresters were required, and even at places as distant as
Berwick-upon-Tweed, which, owing to its position as a border town, and
the contests then waging between the English and Scotch, was repeatedly
lost and won by both sides.  From the year 1174 to 1482 it changed owners
upwards of sixteen times.  The sieges to which our choice Foresters were
summoned appear to have been those of 1310, 1311, 1315, 1317, 1319, and
1355.  On the first occasion the Constable of St. Briavel's, and Keeper
of the Forest of Dean, was commanded to select one hundred archers and
twelve miners.  In the following year writs were addressed to the Sheriff
of Gloucester, directing that, out of fifty men to be chosen from the
county, the larger number should be from the Forest of Dean, and urging
expedition in sending them.  The next writ, issued four years afterwards,
was sent to the Sheriff of Herefordshire, and is entitled "Concerning the
Choice of Soldiers in the Forest of Dean," and orders ninety-six men of
those parts to be provided.  Two years later the Keeper of St. Briavel's
is directed to bring two hundred men to Northallerton; and again, two
years afterwards, he is to take twenty of the strongest miners in his
bailiwick to Newcastle-upon-Tyne; and a writ was addressed to all mayors,
sheriffs, bailiffs, &c., reciting the aforesaid instructions, and
commanding that assistance should be rendered them whenever it was needed
during their journey.  In connexion with these incidents, it is stated by
Guthrie, the historian, that Sir Edward Manny bringing engineers out of
the Forest of Dean, and Edward III. investing the place with a prodigious
army, the Scots capitulated.  They were also ordered by the same King to
join his forces at Portsmouth in 1346 and 1359.

From these facts we are justified in concluding that the population then
inhabiting the Forest were regarded as a brave and skilful race, not
merely in their own quarter of the kingdom, but also in the camp of its
Kings.  They were skilful with the bow from following the chase on the
King's behalf, and were of course able sappers and miners from the nature
of their everyday occupations.  Indeed, the tradition now in vogue
amongst the Foresters, is, that their ancestors were made free miners in
return for the aforesaid services; but it has been shown that the
franchises of the mine date from an earlier period. {18}

The researches of the Rev. T. D. Fosbroke, as printed in his History of
the county, supply most of the following additional particulars of this
reign.  The Bishop of Llandaff, who already claimed the moiety of a
fishery at Bigswear on the Wye, to which the parish of Newland extends,
received a grant of the newly cleared Forest lands for founding a chantry
at the latter place.  Tithes to the amount of ten pounds from the
iron-mines in the Forest were given to that dignitary, but the Dean of
Hereford and the Canons, with the Rectors of St. Briavel's and Lydney,
aided by their servants and others, violently carried them away, the see
of Hereford then comprising all these parts.  The vineyard of Norton,
together with certain wastes, were let to John de Witham and his heir for
50s. 6d. per annum, provided two hundred acres of the adjoining soil were
brought into cultivation and enclosed at a certain rent, by which all
injury to the Crown would be avoided, Norton not being a vineyard, but a
"lacius" worth sixpence per annum.  So also William Jote might hold one
hundred acres, twenty lying in Michelerleye, and eighty in Brakenford,
and also the Prior of Lanthony two hundred and seventy acres, upon paying
twopence per annum.  The Abbot of Gloucester had leave to cut wood in
Birdewoode and Hope Mayloysell, without demand or view of the Forester.
The men of Rodley Mead Forest were allowed to have firewood and mast for
their swine.  John de Abbenhall held a certain bailiwick of the King by
the service of guarding it with bows and arrows.  Robert de Barrington
held forty acres of waste near Malescoyte-wood.  Ralph Hatheway was
seized of forty acres in Holstone.  Bogo de Knoville was seized of
Kilcot-wood, and Henry de Chaworth had a forge in the Forest.

By the sixth year of Edward III. (A.D. 1333) the dispute between the Dean
and Chapter of Hereford and the Bishop of Llandaff, relative to the
tithes of the iron-mines in the parish of Newland, was settled in the
Bishop's favour, who also obtained the great tithes and the presentation
to the living, all of which still continue attached to that see, and in
connexion with which it may be observed, that by far the larger part of
the fabric of the church at Newland exhibits the style of architecture
which prevailed at that period.  It is a large building, and the tower is
particularly fine.

Parliament now confirmed the perambulations made in 26th and 28th Edward
I., which reduced the bounds of the Forest to the limits which, with some
slight exceptions, remained in force till within the last twenty-five
years.  The ensuing items of information, taken from Mr. Fosbroke's
valuable work on the county, apply to this period.  Guy de Brien, to whom
the Forest was farmed, obtained wages from the Crown for the payment of
four foresters, who were allowed the privilege of cutting all underwood
within the same from seven years to seven years.  J. Flory held the
bailiwick of the Lee, and John Preston that of Blakeney.  Robert Sappy,
warden of the Forest, petitioned Parliament for some allowance to be made
him, as, owing to the late alienations of Crown property in favour of the
monks of Tintern and the Bishop of Llandaff, he no longer received the
usual pay of one hundred shillings per annum.  The Abbey of Gloucester
had twigs granted to it for the annual repairs of the weirs at
Minsterworth and Durry; a similar privilege was enjoyed by the lords of
the manor of Rodley, provided the twigs were fetched once a day with two
horses, between the 14th of September and the 3rd of May; heavy timber
was also allowed for the same purpose.  John Juge succeeded to the
bailiwick of the Lee, but was unlawfully deprived of it by John Talbot,
who held the castle on Penyard as well as Goodrich.  William de Staunton
held the bailiwick there, and Reginald Abbenhall the woods.  Walter Ivor
held that at Blakeney, after Roger Flotman.  The Abbot of Gloucester had
ninety acres of land in Walmore, at eight pence an acre rent, for
cultivation, but not for commonage.  John Joice and his heirs had a grant
of 116 acres in several parcels in the Forest, at the yearly rent of
nineteen shillings and four pence.

In the reign of Richard II. John Wolton obtained the grant for life of a
place called Stowe.  It was found that a monk from the convent of Grace
Dieu was celebrating mass in the Forest for the souls of the King, his
successors, and ancestors, holding two carucates of land, ten acres of
meadow, and six acres of wood, a fact which may account for the name of
"Church Hill," at Park End.  Thomas Hatheway was a chief forester.  A
bailiwick in the Forest, with lands in Lee-Walton and Lee in
Herefordshire, were held in tail, remainder to Richard Curle, by Thomas
de Brugg and Elizabeth his wife.  The Castle of St. Briavel's and the
Forest were given in special tail to the Duke of Gloucester, who was
afterwards empowered by Parliament to constitute justices and other
officers then usually attached to such properties.

In the time of Henry IV. William Warwyn held a certain bailiwick here by
the service of being a forester in fee.  Another office called "the
forester's wyke" was filled by Henry de Aure.  In the succeeding reign
this Forest was held in capite as the King's heir, by John Duke of
Bedford, under a grant made by Henry IV.

Whilst the throne was occupied by Henry VI. we have chiefly to notice the
complaint, which the traders of Tewkesbury made to the Government, that
"their boats and trowes conveying all manner of merchandise down the
Severn to Bristol, &c.," had been stopped at the coast of the Forest by
great multitudes of the common people dwelling thereabouts, who seized
their vessels, carried away the corn, threatened their lives if they
resisted, and forbad any complaint being made, on their coming that way
again.  The petition caused letters of privy seal to be proclaimed in
those parts to the effect that "no man of the said Forest should be so
hardy to inquiet or disturb the people passing the said river with
merchandise, upon pain of treason."  But the account proceeds to say that
"the said trespassers came to the said river with greater routs and riots
than ever they did before, there despoiling at divers times eight trowes
of wheat, rye, flour, and divers other goods and chattels, and the men of
the same cast overboard, and divers of them drowned, and the hawsers of
the same trowes cut away, and mainstrung the owners of the said goods,
who should not be so hardy as to cause any manner of victuals to be
carried any more by the same stream, much or little, for lord or for
lady, as they would hew their boats all to pieces if they did so."  More
stringent measures were therefore evidently necessary, and in 1429 the
Parliament passed an act, enforcing a restoration of the plunder, and
amends for the injury done, within fifteen days, and the offenders to be
imprisoned, or else the Statute of Winchester would be enforced against
them.

The singular perquisite of a bushel of coal, worth twenty pence, from
each pit, at the end of every six weeks, was now attached to the office
of "capital forester of all the foresters," held at this period by Robert
Greyndour.  The King's lands, manors, castles, and other possessions in
this Forest, were also granted to Henry Duke of Warwick, for one hundred
pounds annual rental.

After the accession of Edward IV., and his unpopular marriage with
Elizabeth Woodville, this Forest was the spot to which, upon the defeat
at Edgecote (26th July, 1469), her father the Earl Rivers and her brother
Sir John Woodville fled, where they were recaptured and carried to
Northampton, their place of execution.  A sergeantry, called woodward of
the Lee Baile, was then held by John Throckmorton, Esq.

In the reign of Henry VIII. the office of Bleysbale and forestership of
fee was filled by William Alberton.  A rental of sixty-five shillings and
sixpence was paid to the Crown for certain lands in the Forest held by
the priory of Monmouth; and others, called Cley-pitts, Litterfield, and
Hill Hardwell, paid two shillings and four pence.  Letters patent granted
the custody of the Gablewood to Henry Bream.

Edward VI. farmed the Forest to Sir Anthony Kingston.  How far the Forest
population were interested in the stirring events of the Reformation, we
are, unfortunately, left to conjecture; but the suppression of the
adjacent Abbeys of Tintern and Flaxley, with their large possessions,
must have brought the changes of the period visibly home to them.

The reign of Elizabeth brings us to the date of an incident more
generally notorious perhaps than any other in the history of Dean Forest,
viz. its intended destruction by the Spanish Armada.  Evelyn in his
'Sylva' thus mentions it:--"I have heard that in the great expedition of
1588 it was expressly enjoined the Spanish Armada that if, when landed,
they should not be able to subdue our nation and make good their
conquest, they should yet be sure not to leave a tree standing in the
Forest of Dean."  Were it not that he particularly states that he had
"heard" the report, we should conclude that he obtained his information
from Fuller's 'Worthies,' published two years previously, where it is
mentioned with this only difference, that "a Spanish ambassador was to
get it done by private practices and cunning contrivances."  Fuller had
probably read this account in 'Samuel Hartlib, his Legacy of Husbandry,'
published in 1655, where, speaking of the deficiency of woods at that
time, he writes--"the State hath done very well to pull down divers
iron-works in the Forest of Dean, that the timber might be preserved for
shipping, which is accounted the toughest in England, and, when it is
dry, as hard as iron.  The common people did use to say that in Queen
Elizabeth's days the Spaniards sent an ambassador purposely to get this
wood destroyed."

As Mr. Evelyn writes that he "heard" what he states of the matter, Mr.
Secretary Pepys was probably his informant, who was told it by his friend
Sir John Winter, who again heard it from his grandfather, Sir William
Winter, vice-admiral of Elizabeth's fleet, but kinsman to Thomas Winter
of Huddington, who at the close of this reign was constantly aiding the
Spanish Romanists in their intrigues here, and eventually took part in
the Gunpowder Plot.  Such tradition is highly to the credit of the Forest
timber of those days, if not to the iron as well.  Both must have been
renowned for supplying an important portion of the materials used in the
Royal dockyards, which were at this time much enlarged, an increase of
the navy being found necessary; whilst the stock of timber then standing
in different parts of the kingdom was judged so insufficient for the
wants of the Government, that recent acts of the legislature had directed
that "twelve standils or storers likely to become timber should be left
on every acre of wood or underwood that was felled at or under
twenty-four years' growth," and prohibited the "turning woodland into
tillage," and required that, "whenever any wood was cut, it must be
immediately enclosed, and the young spring thereof protected for seven
years."  Moreover, no trees upwards of a foot in the square were to be
converted into charcoal for making iron.

The returns from Sir Julius Caesar's collection preserved in the
Lansdowne MSS. recognise the above regulations, as well as the market for
wood created by the Forest iron-works, now greatly enlarged; they possess
considerable interest, and will be found in Appendix No. I.




CHAPTER II.
A.D. 1612-1663.


Grants in the Forest to Earl of Pembroke--Mining restricted to the
Foresters--Iron cinders of old workings re-smelted in the new
furnaces--Last justice seat held in 1635, extending the limits of the
Forest to those of Edward I.--Grant to E. Terringham--Forest surveyed in
1635--Sale of the woods to Sir J. Winter--Disturbances of the Civil War
at Coleford, Highmeadow, Ruerdean--Adventures of Sir J. Winter at
Westbury, Little Dean, Newnham, Lydney--Events on the north side of the
Forest--Incidents of the Protectorate, riots and devastations of the
Forest--Sir J. Winter's patent restored--Effects of a great storm--Survey
of the Forest in 1662--Mr. J. Pepys and Sir J. Winter on the Forest--The
latter resumes his fellings--Inhabitants suggest replanting and enclosing
the Forest--Act of 20 Charles II., c. 3--Sir J. Winter's licence
confirmed.

On the 17th of February, 1612, William Earl of Pembroke obtained a grant
"of 12,000 cords of wood yearly for twenty-one years at 4s. per cord,
being 2400 pounds, and reserving a rent besides of 33 pounds 6s. 8d. per
annum," with "liberty to dig for and take within any part of the said
Forest, or the precincts thereof, such and so much mine ore, cinders,
earth, sand, stone, breaks, moss, sea coal, and marle, as should be
necessary for carrying on the iron-works let to him, or which he should
erect; no person or persons whatsoever other than the said Earl to be
permitted during the said term to take or carry out of the said Forest
any wood, timber, mine ore, or cinders, without consent of the said Earl,
except such timber as should be used for his Majesty's shipping."  The
Earl obtained, on the 13th June of the same year, a grant of "the
lordship, manor, town, and castle of St. Briavel's, and all the Forest of
Dean with the appurtenances, and all lands, mines, and quarries belonging
thereto, except all great trees, wood, and underwood, to hold for forty
years at the yearly rent of 83 pounds 18s. 4d., and an increase rent of 3
pounds 8d."

It appears that, soon after these leases were granted, the miners,
hitherto accustomed to dig for ore in the Forest, resumed their work
without the Earl's consent, and an information was filed against some of
them by the Attorney-General.  Upon this, an order, dated 28th January,
1613, was made by the Court, "that those miners, and such others as had
been accustomed to dig ore in the Forest, upon the humble submission for
their offences, and acknowledgment that the soil was the King's, and that
they had no interest therein, and upon their motion by counsel that they
were poor, and had no other means of support, and praying to be continued
in their employment, should be permitted, _out of charity and grace_,
_and not of right_, to dig for mine ore and cinders, to be carried to his
Majesty's iron-works, and not to any other place, at the accustomed
rates; if the farmers of the King's iron-works should refuse to give
those rates which, as well as the number of diggers, were to be
ascertained by Commissioners to be named by the Court, that then they
might sell the ore to others; but no new diggers were to be allowed, but
only such poor men as were inhabitants of the said Forest."  It was not
intended that this order should always continue in force, but only until
such time as the cause brought in the name of the foresters should be
heard and determined.  This, however, appears never to have been done, as
no decree was obtained, probably from the miners considering it best to
accept the terms offered, regarding the above order as a record in their
favour, since it provided that "no new diggers were to be allowed, but
only such poor men as were inhabitants of the said Forest;" a view, it
may be remarked, agreeing with that which the free miners took in their
memorial of 1833. {25}

The cinders adverted to were the ashes or refuse left by a former race of
iron manufacturers, whose skill was too limited to effect more than the
separation of a portion of the metal, but which the improved methods, now
introduced into the district, turned to a good account.  A return made in
1617, by Sir William Coke, &c., to a commission issued out of the
Exchequer, to inquire concerning the Forest of Dean, states that "His
Majesty, since the erecting the iron-works, had received a greater
revenue than formerly."  Their structure is described in "The Booke of
Survey of the Forest of Dean Ironwork," dated 1635, from which it appears
that the stone body of the furnace now adopted was usually about
twenty-two feet square, the blast being kept up by a water-wheel not less
than twenty-two feet in diameter, acting upon two pairs of bellows
measuring eighteen feet by four, and kept in blast for several months
together.  Such structures existed at Cannope, Park End, Sowdley, and
Lydbrook.  Besides which, there were forges, comprising chafferies and
fineries, at Park End, Whitecroft, Bradley, Sowdley, and Lydbrook.
Messrs. Harris and Chaloner, &c., as farmers to the Crown, held all of
them on lease.

The last justice seat in Eyre, or Supreme Court of Judicature for the
royal forests, was held the same year as the above (1635) at Gloucester
Castle before Henry Earl of Holland, on which occasion "the matter
concerning the perambulation of this Forest was solemnly debated," the
counsel for the Crown producing the bounds thereof as settled by the 12th
of Henry III. and 10th Edward I., with the view of obtaining its
re-extension to Gloucester, Monmouth, and Chepstow.  On the other hand,
the counsel for the City of Gloucester, &c., brought forward the
perambulations made 26th and 28th Edward I., confirmed by Letters Patent
29th Edward I., and by an Act of 10th Edward III.  The Grand Jury, not
being able to agree to their verdict on that day, which was a Saturday,
desired further time in a matter of such weight; and on the Monday
following decided, that the more extensive limits, comprising seventeen
additional villages, were the true ones.  But "their inhabitants being
fearful that they would be questioned for many things done contrary to
the Forest Laws, the King's Counsel, in regard of their being but new
brought in, and long usage, thought it not fitt to proceed with any of
them at that justice seat."  Amongst some 120 claims to rights and
privileges of various kinds preserved in the Office of Public Records,
{27} and put in at the same Court, was one of Philip Earl of Pembroke to
be Constable of the Castle of St. Briavel's and Warden of the Forest,
under a grant from the King, and, as such, Chief Judge of the Mine Law
Court.

In A.D. 1637 a grant was made to Edward Terringham of "all the mines of
coal and quarries of grindstone within the Forest of Dean, and in all
places within the limits and perambulations thereof, as well those within
his Majesty's demesne lands, and the waste and soil there, as also all
such as lay within the lands of any of his Majesty's subjects within the
perambulation of the said Forest, to his Majesty reserved, or lawfully
belonging, to hold for thirty-one years, at the yearly rent of 30
pounds."

The next year (1638) is marked by the first effort which the Crown seems
to have made to renew the crops of timber in the Forest, rendered
necessary by the report that, on surveying it, a supply of no more than
105,557 trees, containing 61,928 tons of timber, and 153,209 cords of
wood, of which only 14,350 loads were fit for shipbuilding, was found, as
"the trees were generally decayed, and passed their full groath."
Accordingly, under the direction of Sir Baynham Throckmorton, 16,000 or
17,000 acres were ordered to be taken in, "leaving fit and convenient
highways in and through the same."  After sundry meetings, the commoners
consented thereunto, few or none objecting, in consideration of 4000
acres set apart for their use on the different sides of the Forest, as
follows:--On the side next Lydney and Awre, 550 acres; towards Ruerdean
and Lydbrook, 350 acres; near to St. Briavel's, 500 acres; towards Little
Dean, Flaxley, Abenhall, and Mitcheldean, and the Lea, 876 acres; in
Abbot's Wood, 76 acres; on the side nearest to Newland and the villages
of Breme, Clearwell, and Coleford, 900 acres; towards Newland, 174 acres;
next to Bicknor, 350 acres; and towards Rodley and Northwood, 100 acres.
The Lea Bailey, containing the best timber, was not included, but left
open.  The proportion observed in the size of these common lands is
probably indicative of the way in which the population surrounding the
Forest was distributed.  Traces of the bounds of some of these allotments
may yet be made out, by the remains of the ditches and banks with which
they were fenced.

Such a scheme, if judiciously carried out, would have done much to secure
the object in view, only it was connected unhappily with the entire sale
made under the date of 20th February, 1640 (15th Charles I.), to Sir John
Winter, of all the mines, minerals, and stone-quarries within the limits
of the Forest, to work and use the same, together with all timber, trees,
woods, underwood growing in any part thereof, in consideration of 10,000
pounds, and the yearly sum of 16,000 pounds for six years, and of a fee
farm rent of 1950 pounds 12s. 6d. for ever.  This bargain was equivalent
to selling the Forest altogether, and the inhabitants of the district,
being greatly dissatisfied, took advantage of the approaching civil
distractions to throw down the fences which Sir J. Winter had already
begun to make.

Of those distractions, the first that occurred in this part of the county
took place on the 20th February, 1643.  Clarendon and Corbet record, that
on this day Lord Herbert, the Earl of Worcester's eldest son, and the
King's Lieutenant-General of South Wales, marched through Coleford and
the Forest of Dean for Gloucester, at the head of an army of 500 horse
and 1500 foot, the outfit and preparation of which is stated to have cost
60,000 pounds.  At Coleford their progress was impeded by a troop of
Parliamentarians under Colonel Berrowe, aided by a disorderly rabble of
country people.  An affray ensued, during which the old market-house was
burnt, and Major-General Lawley, who commanded the foot, "a bold and
sprightly man," with two other officers, were shot dead from a window,
although not one common soldier was hurt.  Colonel Brett was then put in
command of the foot, Lord John Somerset continuing at the head of the
horse.  They forced a passage through, after capturing Lieutenant-Colonel
Winter, together with some inferior officers and common soldiers, and so,
putting the rest to flight, marched without further molestation for
Gloucester.

In the April following, Sir William Waller, retreating from Monmouth
towards Gloucester through the Forest, narrowly escaped capture by Prince
Maurice, who was at hand to intercept him with a considerable force.
Alluding many years afterwards to this adventure, he writes:--"Upon my
march that night through the Forest of Dean, it happened through the
sleepiness of an officer, that the main body was separated from the fore
troope with which I marched, so that I was fain to make an halt for above
half an hour, within little more than a mile of the Prince's
head-quarter, in broad daylight; the allarme taken, and not 120 horse
with me.  Nevertheless, itt pleased God in his infinite mercy to direct
the rest of my troopes to me; and, under the conduct of his providence,
to grant me a safe and honorable retreat to Gloucester, in despight of
the enemy, who charged me in the reare, with more loss to himself than to
me."

But the individual who figured most prominently in these parts at this
eventful period was the ardent royalist Sir John Winter.  His case is
thus quaintly stated by Sanderson:--"From the pen, as secretary to the
Queen, he was put to the pike, and did his business very handsomely, for
which he found the enmity of the Parliament ever after;" so that Corbet,
one of their devoted adherents, designates him "a plague," and his house
of White Cross, near Lydney, "a den."  This place he had been secretly
strengthening against attack for some time, storing it with arms and
ammunition, and collecting soldiers; but he did not openly declare
himself until the siege of Gloucester was raised, on 5th September, 1643.
During the ensuing winter, and on to the 7th of May following, Corbet
speaks of him as "referring all his industry to his own house," described
as being "in the heart of the Forest," of which, says the same writer, he
had "obtained the entire command," and from whence he succeeded in making
constant attacks upon the adjoining small Parliamentary garrisons of
Huntley and Westbury, who were treacherously sold to him by Captain
Thomas Davis, and he was thus enabled to advance almost to Gloucester.
Upon the day just named, in the year 1644, the following affray happened
at Westbury, occasioned by Colonel Massy's attempt to recover it for the
Parliament.  Corbet says:--"Here the enemy held the church, and a strong
house" (understood to be Mr. Colchester's) "adjoining."  "The Governor
(Colonel Massy), observing a place not flanked, fell-up that way with the
forlorne hope, and secured them from the danger of shot.  The men got
stooles and ladders to the windowes, where they stood safe, cast in
granadoes, and fired them out of the church.  Having gained the church,
he quickly beat them out of their workes, and possest himself of the
house, where he took about four score prisoners, slaying twenty others,
without the losse of a man."

Upon the same day a similar but more fatal encounter took place at
Littledean, a village situated under the east <DW72>s of the Forest hills,
and as yet occupied for the King.  "Here," says Corbet, "the governor's
troop of horse found the enemy stragling in the towne, and, upon the
discovery of their approach, shuffling towards the garrison, which the
troopers observing, alighted and ran together with them into the house,
where they tooke about 20 men.  Neere unto which guard,
Lieutenant-Colonel Congrave, Governor of Newnham, and one Captain
Wigmore, with a few private souldiers, were surrounded in some houses by
the residue of our horse.  These had accepted quarter, ready to render
themselves, when one of their company from the house kils a trooper,
which so enraged the rest, that they broke in upon them, and put them all
to the sword: in which accident, this passage was not to be forgotten
that expressed in one place an extreame contrariety in the spirits of men
under the stroke of death: Congrave died with these words, 'Lord receive
my soule!' and Wigmore cryed nothing but 'Dam me more, dam me more!'
desperately requiring the last stroke, as enraged at divine revenge."
The spot where these officers fell is considered to have been at Dean
Hall, in the dining-room, near the fireplace.

Corbet next goes on to recite how Colonel Massy followed up these
exploits by marching to Newnham the next day, "where," says he, "a strong
party of Sir John Winter's forces kept garrison in the church, and the
fort adjoining," (on a spot which has been turned lately into public
pleasure grounds,) "of considerable strength, who at that instant were
much daunted and distracted by the losse of Congrave, their governor.
Our men were possest of the town without opposition, and recovered the
houses, by which they got nere the workes.  The Governour (Massy)
commanded a blind of <DW19>s to be made athwart the street, drew up two
pieces of ordnance within pistoll shot, and observing a place not well
flanked where he might lead up his men to the best advantage, himself
marched before them, and found that part of the work fortified with
double pallisadoes; the souldiers being provided with sawes to cut them
down, and having drawn them close within a dead angle, and secure from
their shot, and drawing the rest of his forces for a storme, the enemy
forthwith desires a parley, and to speake with the governour, which he
refused, and commanded a sudden surrender.  In this interim some of the
enemy jumpt over the workes, and so our men broke in upon the rest, who
ranne from the out worke into the churche, hoping to cleare the mount
which we had gained.  But our men were too nimble, who had no sooner
entred the mount, but rushed upon them before they could reach home, and
tumbled into the church altogether.  Then they cryed for quarter, when,
in the very point of victory, a disaster was like to befall us: a barrell
of gunpowder was fired in the church, undoubtedly of set purpose, and was
conceived to be done by one Tipper, a most virulent <DW7>, and Sir John
Winter's servant, despairing withall of his redemption, being a prisoner
before, and having falsified his engagement.  The powder-blast blew many
out of the church, and sorely singed a greater number, but killed none.
The souldiers, enraged, fell upon them, and in the heate of blood slew
neere 20, and amongst others this Tipper.  All the rest had quarter for
their lives (save one Captaine Butler, an Irish rebell, who was knocked
down by a common souldier), and an 100 prisoners taken.  The service was
performed without the losse of a man on our side."

Emboldened to proceed, and anxious to take advantage of Sir John Winter's
absence at Coleford, Colonel Massy marched on forthwith to Lydney House.
He did not attack it, however, so well was it fortified and provided, and
courageously defended, by Lady Winter, who, upon being pressed to
deliver, answered--

    "Sir,--Mr. Winter's unalterable allegiance to his King and Sovereign,
    and his particular interest to this place, hath by his Majesty's
    commission put it into this condition, which cannot be pernicious to
    any but to such as oppose the one and invade the other; wherefore
    rest assured that in these relations we are, by God's assistance,
    resolved to maintain it, all extremities notwithstanding.  Thus much
    in Mr. Winter's absence you shall receive from

                                                            "MARY WINTER."

To inconvenience so daring a lady would be contrary to the Colonel's
gallantry, and he drew off to the adjoining hills towards the Forest, the
better to meet Sir John Winter and Colonel Mynne, who were reported to be
returning with a considerable strength of horse, assisted by the Lord
Herbert's forces.  But the Royalists not appearing, Massy contented
himself with setting fire to Sir John's iron-mills and furnaces, and in
the evening marched back to Gloucester.

Lydney House and Berkeley Castle remained the last strongholds of the
Royalists in the county of Gloucester.  The restless proprietor of the
former was perpetually engaged in attempts to restore the King's
declining cause, and in particular to reduce the inhabitants of the
Forest, which was an object of some importance, as their iron-works, &c.,
afforded supplies to Bristol, then besieged by the Parliament forces.
The foresters had declined in their loyalty, through Sir John Winter's
occupying their woods, from which his enclosures excluded them.
Accordingly his name is rarely absent from the accounts given by
contemporary writers, of efforts made in this neighbourhood for the
Crown.  Most likely he assisted Prince Rupert in his first attempt made
in the month of September, 1644, to fortify and establish a permanent
guard on the promontory at Beachley, but from which they were quickly
dislodged by Massy.  We know he was present when the same effort was
renewed a month later, and had a second time to be relinquished, Sir John
Winter only effecting his escape by hard riding, and making a desperate
descent upon the river Wye, by which he was only just enabled to reach
the Prince's ships lying at its mouth.

So favourable an opportunity as this defeat gave for the capture of
Lydney House was not to be lost, and it was invested forthwith.  Timely
aid was however rendered about the 2nd of April, 1645, by the arrival of
Prince Maurice with a force of 2,000 horse and 1,500 foot, who, as they
marched towards it from Hereford, took advantage of the occasion to lay
waste the Forest, as a retribution on the inhabitants for having deserted
the King's cause.  Corbet says that "they plundered the houses to the
bare walls, driving all the cattell, seizing upon the persons of men, and
sending them captives to Monmouth and Chepstow, except such as escaped to
us by flight, as many did with their armes, and some few that saved
themselves in woods and mine pitts."  The same authority adds that "the
King's forces returned a second time into the Forest, and took the
gleanings of the former harvest."  In the course of the month of May the
royalists retired, and Sir John Winter, resolving that his house should
never harbour his enemies, burnt it to the ground.  He then joined the
King, by whom he was presently despatched with letters to the Queen, in
France, and mentioning him in these terms--"This bearer, Sir John Winter,
as thy knowledge of him makes it needlesse to recommend him to thee, soe
I should injure him if I did not beare him the true witnesse of having
served me with as much fidelity and courage as any, not without much good
successe; though some crosse accydents of late hath made him (not without
reason) desire to waite upon thee, it being needfull that I should give
him this testimony, least his journey to thee be misinterpreted."

The estate which Sir John Winter thus vacated in this neighbourhood was
soon after assigned to his opponent by the House of Commons, who ordered
on the 29th of September, 1645, "that Major-General Massy, in
consideration of his good and faithful service which he hath done for the
kingdom, shall have allowed him the estate of Sir John Winter (who is a
delinquent to the Parliament) in the Forest of Dean; all his iron-mills,
and the woods (timber trees only excepted not to be felled), with all the
profits belonging to them; and ordered that an order at once should be
brought into the House to that purpose."  Eventually, however, Sir John
Winter recovered his property, through the influence probably of the
Lords in Parliament, who appear to have favoured him.  On his return to
this country he nevertheless seems to have been imprisoned, for on the
7th of September, 1652, we find him liberated from the Tower, upon bail
for three months, on account of sickness; a term of liberty which was
enlarged upon the 7th of December, on the same security, to three months
longer, with permission to go where he pleased within twenty miles of
London.  On the 17th of the same month he was remanded back to the Tower.

Evelyn tells us that at this time Sir John Winter amused himself with a
project for charring coal.  "July 11th, 1656.--Came home by Greenwich
Ferry, where I saw Sir John Winter's new project of charring sea-coale,
to burne out the sulphure and render it sweete.  He did it by burning the
coals in such earthen pots as the glasse-men mealt their mettal, so
firing them without consuming them, using a barr of yron in each crucible
or pot, which barr has a hook at one end, that so the coales being
mealted in a furnace wth other crude sea-coales under them, may be drawn
out of the potts sticking to the yron, whence they are beaten off in
greate halfe-exhausted cinders, which being rekindled make a cleare
pleasant chamber fire, deprived of their sulphur and arsenic malignity.
What successe it may have, time will discover."

Reverting to Sir John Winter's retreat from Lydney, it may be remarked
that, with his retirement from the Forest district, its south side became
quiet; not so its north, for there the following incidents occurred.  The
first of them arose from Colonel Massy's efforts to retake Monmouth,
which he strove to accomplish by feigning a sudden retreat from before it
towards Gloucester, as though he had received unfavourable tidings.  With
this view he and his forces drew off some three miles into the thickets
of the Forest, sending out scouts at the same time to prevent his being
surprised by the enemy.  Intelligence of their disappearance being
reported within the garrison to Lieutenant-Colonel Kyrle, who was in the
secret, he speedily set out in pursuit, but was himself surprised with a
troop of thirty horse, near midnight, by Massy, in Mr. Hall's house, at
High-Meadow.  A combination of their forces being effected, they returned
to Monmouth, and with mutual aid, favoured by a dark and rainy night,
recaptured the town, much to the joy of the Colonel and his friends.
Kyrle, an ancestor of "the Man of Ross," lived at Walford, where he was
buried, and where his helmet is still preserved.

The capture of Monmouth proved to be only temporary, as the place was
again lost, thus exposing that side of the Forest to the incursions of
the Cavalier troops.  To check these invasions, the garrison of
High-Meadow was carefully kept up.  Ruerdean, six miles to the west, and
well situated for guarding the Forest on the north, was made another
military post, being intended to stop plunderers from the King's garrison
at Goodrich, and where there is a spot yet called "Shoot-Hill," adjoining
which many cannon-balls have been found.  Probably the site of the old
castle at Bicknor was also converted into an out-station, guarding the
two parallel valleys which there pass up towards the middle of the Forest
from the Wye.  This station would likewise assist, from its relative
position, in transmitting signals between Ruerdean and High-Meadow, or
even from Gloucester, if the Beacon, which formerly stood on the crest of
Edge Hill, were included in the range.  Such posts would be serviceable
to the Parliamentary Colonel Birch, when engaged in the siege of Goodrich
Castle, not more than four miles north of Ruerdean; for his supplies
would be drawn chiefly from the Forest, as indeed appears from a letter
dated 4th July, 1646, in which he says, "We have supplies of shells for
our granadoes from the Forest of Dean."

Several traditions of violence and blood, referring no doubt to this
period, are preserved by the inhabitants of these parts of the Forest,
one of whom reports an act of cruelty perpetrated on a householder living
in the little hamlet of Drybrook, who was struck down, and his eyes
knocked out, for refusing to give up a flitch of bacon to a foraging
party.  Another legend, relative to the same neighbourhood, preserves the
memory of a skirmish called "Edge Hill's Fight," from the spot on which
it occurred.  It is true that some of the neighbouring foresters suppose
it to be "the Great Fight mentioned in the almanack," an idea which might
perhaps have given rise to the story, were it not that a small stream
which descends from the place in question bears the name of "Gore Brook,"
from the human blood which on that occasion stained its waters.

The ensuing years of the Protectorate, judging from the frequent notices
in the Parliamentary Journals to that effect, appear to have been
destructive to the timber of the Forest rather than to life or property.
Frequent orders were issued by the Committee of the House of Commons
charged with the care of the Forest of Dean, forbidding the felling of
any more trees whatever, and ordering that any which had been cut down
should be sold for the benefit of the Government.  The gentlemen of the
county were invited to assist herein, both by viewing any timber which
had been felled, and also by causing any of it which they judged fit to
be reserved for shipping to be brought into the stores of the Navy.  Sir
J. Winter asserts that during the time of the Commonwealth above 40,000
trees were cut down by order of the House of Commons.

In 1650 the above-named Committee ordered all the iron-works to be
suppressed and demolished.  Six years later a Bill was brought in and
passed, signed by the Protector Richard, for mitigating the rigour of the
Forest Laws, and for preserving the timber, which all contemporary
testimony on the subject states to have gone miserably to wreck during
the civil wars.  On the 11th of May, 1659, Colonel White reported to the
House of Commons, that "upon the 3rd day of this instant month divers
rude people in tumultuous way, in the Forest of Dean, did break down the
fences, and cut and carry away the gates of certain coppices enclosed for
preservation of timber, turned in their cattle, and set divers places of
the said Forest on fire, to the great destruction of the young growing
wood."  This riot was probably excited by the efforts which the
Government had recently made for the re-afforesting of 18,000 acres; to
effect which 400 cabins of poor people, living upon the waste, and
destroying the wood and timber, were thrown down.

It would be interesting to know what was the disposition of the
inhabitants of the Forest, and of the neighbourhood generally, towards
the exiled Sovereign, as the way to his restoration began to open out.  A
slight clue is afforded by Captain Titus's letter, reporting to the King
that "he had been in the Forest of Dean, and had found the gentlemen very
forward; that several of them had engaged for considerable numbers."

The return of Charles at once restored Sir John Winter to liberty, and to
the benefits of the Patent which the late King had granted him, as also
to his place as Secretary and Chancellor to the Queen Dowager.  He
proceeded to act upon the former, by repairing his enclosures, in spite
of determined opposition from the neighbouring inhabitants, who strongly
represented to the Government that the continuance of that grant would
injure both it and the public.  Sir Charles Harbord, under date 28th of
December, 1661, thus describes the way in which the above complaint was
preferred:--"His Majesty hath been pleased to be present with my Lord
Chancellor, and Lord Treasurer, &c., at the hearing of this business, and
hath given order that a Commission shall be forthwith issued out of the
Exchequer to inquire into the state of the Forest; intending, upon the
return of the said Commission, to acquaint the Parliament with the true
state of the business; and to recommend it to their wisdom to provide
that the said Forest may be restored to his Majesty's demesne, and
re-afforested, and improved by enclosures for a future supply of wood for
a constant support of the iron-works there, producing the best iron of
Europe for many years, and for the produce of timber for the navy, and
other uses in time to come; which might be of great use for defence of
this nation, the old trees there standing being above 300 years' growth,
and yet as good timber as any in the world; and the ground so apt to
produce, and so strong to preserve timber, especially oaks, that within
100 years there may be sufficient provision there found to maintain the
navy royal for ever."  Perhaps the ancient trees here named are those of
which Sir John Winter spoke in the "good discourse" Mr. Pepys had with
him, as "being left at a great fall in Edward the Third's time, by the
name of forbid-trees, which at this day are called 'vorbid trees.'"

Here it may be noted, that there happened on the night of 18th February,
1662, a dreadful storm of wind, alluding to which Pepys writes:--"We have
letters from the Forest of Deane, that above 1,000 oakes and as many
beeches are blown down in one walke there;" and Mr. Fosbroke has recorded
from some other source, that near Newent "the roads were impassable till
the trees blown down were cut away, in some great orchards it being
possible to go from one end to the other without touching the ground."

The Commission mentioned above was directed to Lord Herbert, as Constable
of the Castle of St. Briavel's and Warden of the Forest, and others, to
examine the state and condition thereof.  After a careful survey, it was
reported by them that they had found 25,929 oaks and 4,204 beeches,
containing 121,572 cords of wood, fit for being converted into charcoal,
as used at the iron furnaces, and 11,335 tons of ship timber suitable for
the navy.  They add, however, that "cabins of beggarly people, with
goats, sheep, and swine, began to invade the same as formerly."  A fresh
agreement was forthwith entered into with Sir John Winter on the part of
the Crown, who thereupon surrendered his former Patent, reserving the
woods called Snead and Kidnalls, and nominated Francis Finch and Robert
Clayton to receive a new grant of all such trees as were not fit for
shipping, together with the use and occupation of the King's iron-works,
and liberty to dig for and use iron ore and cinders in the Forest.
Touching the drawing up of this agreement, Mr. Pepys's 'Diary,' under
date 20th June, 1662, supplies us with the following particulars:--"Up by
4 or 5 o'clock, and to the office, and there drew up the agreement
between the King and Sir John Winter about the Forest of Deane; and
having done it, he come himself, whom I observed to be a man of fine
parts; and we read it, and both liked it well.  That done, I turned to
the Forest of Deane, in Speede's Mapps, and there he shewed me how it
lies; and the Lea-bayly with the great charge of carrying it to Lydney,
and many other things worth knowing."  They evidently enjoyed each
other's society, for in the month of August next following they again met
at "the Mitre," in Fenchurch Street, "to a venison pasty," whither Mr.
Pepys was brought "in Sir John Winter's coach, where I found him" (he
records) "a very worthy man, and good discourse, most of which was
concerning the Forest of Deane, and the timber there, and iron workes
with their great antiquity, and the vast heaps of cinders which they
find, and are now of great value, being necessary for the making of iron
at this day; and without which they cannot work."  Evelyn's Diary of 5th
November, 1662, also points to the same topic:--"The Council of the Royal
Society met to amend the Statutes, &c., dined together; afterwards
meeting at Gresham College, where was a discourse suggested by me,
concerning planting his Majesty's Forest of Dean with oake, now so much
exhausted of ye choicest ship-timber in the world."

Sir John Winter lost no time in acting upon the privileges conferred on
him by the late agreement; but just as on the former occasion, it gave
extreme dissatisfaction to the neighbourhood, whose complaints reached
the House of Commons, and forthwith a committee was appointed to
investigate the whole matter; from which committee Sir Charles Harbord
reported to the House, "that Sir John Winter had 500 cutters of wood
employed in Dean Forest, and that all the timber would be destroyed if
care should not be speedily taken to prevent it."  The report of the
committee was accompanied by certain propositions, which manifest a
public spirit highly creditable to the neighbourhood, although "the great
difficulty" is noticed "with which the many freeholders that had right of
common and other privileges were prevailed with to submit the same to the
Crown for enclosing the said Forest."  These propositions were made the
basis of the ensuing Act, and I insert them without abridgment.  They are
headed:--

    "Proposals by and on the behalf of the Freeholders, Inhabitants, and
    Commoners, within the Forest of Dean, for the preservation and
    improvement of the growth of timber there.

    "Imprimis, That 11,000 acres of the wastle soil of the Forest of
    Dean, whereof the Lea Baily and Cannopp to be part of the said
    wastle, may be enclosed by his Majesty, and discharged for ever from
    all manner of pasture, estovers, and pannage; and if ever his
    Majesty, or his successors, shall think fit to lay open any part of
    the said 11,000 acres, then to take in so much elsewhere, so as the
    whole enclosure exceed not at any one time 11,000 acres.

    "That all the wood or timber which shall hereafter grow upon the
    remaining 13,000 acres shall absolutely belong to his Majesty,
    discharged from all estovers for ever, and pannage for twenty years
    next ensuing.  That the whole wastle soil be re-afforested, and
    subject to the Forest laws; but that the severity of the Forest laws
    be taken off from the lands in several, belonging to the freeholders
    and inhabitants within the said Forest, they themselves being
    contented to serve his Majesty, according to their several offices
    and places, as formerly at the Forest courts.

    "That the deer to be kept on the said waste soil may not exceed 800
    at any one time; and the fees which belong to the particular
    officers, touching venison, may be preserved to them, as to venison
    only, and not to wood and trees.

    "That it is consented to that the winter heyning and fence month,
    according to the Forest law, being such times wherein no kind of
    cattle be permitted to abide in any part of the said waste, may be
    understood to be from Saint Martin's day in the winter to Saint
    George's day in April; and afterwards, from fifteen days before
    Midsummer to fifteen days after.

    "That all grants of any part of the waste soil of the said Forest be
    re-assumed and made void; and that no part of the said waste or soil
    be aliened for ever from the Crown, or farmed to any particular
    person or persons, by lease or otherwise.

       "And that this may be settled by Act of Parliament.

          "(Signed) HEN: HALL.    DUN: COLCHESTER,
             WM. PROBIN.   JO: WITT."

The importance of the foregoing propositions appears from the use made of
them, more than a century afterwards, by the Commissioners of Woods and
Forests in 1788, who informed the descendants of those gentlemen who
appended their names to the above document, that they had thereby lost
all claim to any perquisite in the way of bark and windfalls; observing
also, that the important Act of 1668 (20 Charles II.) resulting from it
was approved by and obtained at the desire of the freeholders,
inhabitants, and commoners then living.

Another proposition intended to further the preservation of the Forest
woods was presented to the Lord Warden of the Castle of St. Briavel's by
the freeholders thereof, promising on their part to relinquish claims to
wood and timber for so long a time as "his sacred Majesty" should resolve
to suspend his iron-works therein, whom they implore to call in the
patent granted to Sir John Winter.

Some idea may be formed of the strength of public feeling against Sir
John Winter, on account of his wholesale fellings of the Forest timber,
by the decision which Mr. Pepys records his "cousin Roger" to have given
upon him, viz. that "he deserves to be hanged."  In order that the
mischief might be put an end to as soon as possible, late as it was in
the session, a bill was brought into the House for settling the Forest,
and preserving and improving the wood and timber.  Parliament was
prorogued, however, before the bill could pass, and its promoters had to
be content with the House "recommending the Lord Treasurer and the
Chancellor of the Exchequer to take care for the preservation and
improvement of the Forest."  This recommendation appears to have had no
influence on Sir John Winter, for on a new survey made in 1667 it was
reported to Government that out of the 30,233 trees sold to him, only
about 200 remained standing, and that from 7000 to 8000 tons of timber,
fit for his Majesty's navy, was found wanting.  He would seem to have
felt some alarm at this report, for twice about this time he resorted to
Mr. Pepys, who writes, 15th March, 1667--"This morning I was called up by
Sir John Winter, poor man, come in a sedan from the other end of the
town, about helping the King in the business of bringing down his timber
to the sea-side in the Forest of Deane;" and again 30th April, "Sir John
Winter, to discourse with me about the Forest of Deane."

All the propositions sent up to the Government in 1663 were incorporated
in the Act of 20 Charles II., chap. 3, which also provided that the new
enclosures should be perfected within two years, in favourable and
convenient places, the cost of making and maintaining them being met by
the sale of such trees as would never prove timber; that no trees were to
be felled until they had been viewed and marked by two or more justices
of the peace, under a penalty of twenty pounds; that no fee-trees were to
be allowed, and all grants to be void; that every freeholder might do
what he pleased with his land; that no enclosure was to be mined,
quarried, or trespassed in; that the bounds of the Forest were to remain
as settled in 20 James I.; that all lawful rights and privileges relating
to its minerals were to continue, with permission to the Crown to lease
coal-mines and stone-quarries for periods not exceeding thirty-one years;
that the letters-patent granted for a term not expired to Sir John
Winter, Kt., Francis Finch and Robert Clayton, Esqs., should remain good,
as also, certain leases granted to Thomas Preston, Esq., and Sir Edward
Villiers, Kt.  After all that had occurred, it seems strange that Sir
John Winter should have obtained permission by Act of Parliament to
retain his patent; he had however several powerful friends, and also
strong claims on the Crown in consideration of his services during the
civil war.




CHAPTER III.
A. D. 1663-1692.


First "Order" of forty-eight free miners in Court--8,487 acres enclosed
and planted--Speech-house begun--Second order of the Miners' Court--The
King's iron-works suppressed--The six "walks" and lodges planned out--All
mine-works forbidden in the enclosures--Third order of the Miners'
Court--Enclosures extended--Fourth order of the Miners'
Court--Speech-house finished--The Forest perambulated--Fifth order of the
Miners' Court--Proposal to resume the King's iron-works rejected--Sixth
and seventh orders of the Miners' Court--Riots connected with the
Revolution--Eighth order of the Miners' Court--Dr. Parsons's account of
the Forest.

Contemporaneously with the important Parliamentary enactments noticed in
the preceding chapter, there took place, on the 18th of March (1663), the
earliest session of a local but very significant court, that of "the Mine
Law," whose date and proceedings have been preserved.  It was held at
Clearwell before Sir Baynham Throgmorton, deputy constable of St.
Briavel's Castle, and a jury of forty-eight free miners, and shows that
the Forest Miners of that day were a body of men engaged in carrying on
their works according to rule, so as to avoid disputes or unequal
dealing.

    The Court ordered and ordained, as respects the western half of the
    district, that the minerals of the Forest could only be disposed of,
    beyond the limits of the Hundred, by free miners; that no manner of
    carriage was to be used for transporting them, nor more than four
    horses kept by any one party; that the selling price was to be
    determined by six "Barganers"; but that any free miner might carry "a
    dozen" of lime coal to the lime slad for 3s., to the top of the
    Little Doward for 5s. 6d., to any other kilns thereon for 5s. 4d., to
    the Blackstones for 5s., to Monmouth for 5s. 6d., to the Weare over
    Wye for 4s., to Coldwall for 3s. 6d., to Lydbrook for 3s., and to
    Redbrook for 4s. 4d.; that no young man who had not served an
    apprenticeship for five years should work for himself at the mine or
    coal, nor should any of the "labourers" do so unless they had worked
    seven years, neither was any young man to carry coal, &c., unless he
    was a householder; and that none should sue for mine, &c., but in the
    Court of the Mine, under the penalty "of 100 dozen of good sufficient
    oare or coale, the one-half to be forfeited to the King, and the
    other halfe to the myner that will sue for the same."  The originals
    of this foregoing, and of the seventeen succeeding "Orders," written
    on parchment, are preserved in the office of the Deputy Gaveller at
    Coleford.  The forty-eight signatures to it are almost effaced, and
    about half have "marks" affixed to them, but the whole are written in
    the same hand.

The new Act of 1668 was soon brought into operation.  Immediately after
it had passed, upwards of 8,487 acres of open land were enclosed and
planted, the remaining 2,513 acres being taken in some time afterwards.
The following statement of Mr. Agar, then surveyor of the woods, shows
that the cost of making the enclosures was raised as the Act directed.
He said that he "received several sums of money by the sale of cordwood
to Mr. Foley and divers others, and of the timber that did happen to
arise out of the old oaks and beeches felled for the cordwood and other
uses, and of wood that I _sold_ to the colliers for their pits, in the
whole amounting to 5 pounds,125 8s. 9.25d., which money was expended in
buying Cannope, &c., of Banistree Maynard, Esq., at 1,500 pounds; in
setting up his Majesty's Enclosures in the said Forest, of 8,400 acres,
with gates, stiles, &c., and some reparations of them; in employing a
sworn surveyor to admeasure them; in building part of the Speech House;
in divers repairs at Saint Briavel's Castle; in the charge of executing
two several commissions, and other services in the said Forest."

In allusion to the item of timber _sold_ to the colliers, the
commissioners, in their report of 1788, remark:--"Immediately after the
passing of the Act of 1668, the colliers, who, it is said, now pretend to
have a right to whatever timber they find necessary for carrying on their
works in the Forest, without paying anything for it, then purchased it
from the Crown."  It seems also that "the Speech House" was then
commenced, although it was not finished until 1682.

The _second_ existing Order of the Mine Law Court states that it met in
1674, on the 9th March, at Clowerwall, before Sir George Probert, deputy
constable of St. Briavel's Castle, chiefly with the design of raising a
fund for defending in a legal way the rights of the free miners, and
affording them support when injured at their work.

    To these ends a payment of 6d. per quarter was levied upon each
    miner, digging for or carrying mineral, if fifteen years of age, as
    also upon every horse so used, payable within fourteen days, under a
    fine of 2s.  Six collectors were to receive the above payments, to be
    remunerated at the rate of 1s. per quarter for each pound they
    gathered.  Twice a year they handed in their accounts, under a
    penalty of 5 pounds, and perpetual exclusion from any office of
    trust, if such were found defective.  It appears therefore that the
    free miners valued their rights, and not only took thought for the
    morrow, but provided for it.  They added a proviso that the servants
    of the Deputy Constable should have the benefit of always being
    supplied first at the pits, showing that they knew something also of
    public diplomacy.  This "Order" has the names of forty-eight miners
    attached, all severally sealed, but written in one hand.

In this year also (1674) it was suggested that if the King would put the
old iron-works of the Forest in repair, and also build one furnace and
two forges, all which might be done for 1,000 pounds, a clear profit of
2,190 pounds could be made upon every 8,000 long and short cords of wood,
of which the Forest was in a condition to supply a vast quantity.  This
proposal was nevertheless not acted upon, it being judged desirable
rather to pull down the old iron-works than erect new, lest the waste in
supplying the necessary quantities of wood should ultimately prove
destructive to the Forest, now in a flourishing condition.  Accordingly
the iron-works then standing were ordered to be pulled down, and the
materials sold.  The greatest attention is admitted by the commissioners
of 1788, who examined the office papers relating to this period, to have
been given by the then Ministers of State, by Sir Charles Harbord,
surveyor-general of the Crown lands, and by his son and successor Mr.
William Harbord, to the protection of the young wood and the enclosures;
and they affirm that "it is chiefly in those parts of the Forest which
were then enclosed that the timber with which the dockyards have been
since furnished from this Forest has been felled, and in which any
considerable quantity of useful timber may now be found."

On the 28th of September, 1675, at the recommendation of Sir Charles
Harbord, to whom the plan was probably suggested by the precedent of the
ten bailiwicks into which the district had been anciently divided, the
Forest was formed into six "walks," or districts, a keeper being
appointed to each.  Six lodges were built for their use in convenient
situations, with 30 acres of land attached, "for the better encouragement
and enabling of the said keepers to attend and watch over the said
enclosures within their several walks, and to preserve the same, and the
young springs of wood and trees thereon growing, and to grow from time to
time, from spoil and harm."  The names given to each of the six divisions
were derived from some of the most eminent living characters of that day.
Thus, the Speech House, or King's Walk, was so called after Charles II.;
York Walk and Lodge after the Duke of York; Danby Walk and Lodge after
the Earl of Danby, prime Minister at the time; Worcester Walk and Lodge
after Henry Marquis of Worcester, the then constable of the Castle of St.
Briavel's, and warden of the Forest; Latimer Walk and Lodge after
Viscount Latimer; and Herbert Walk and Lodge after Lord Herbert; in the
two last instances, out of compliment to the Worcester family apparently.
The Speech House was so called from its being intended for the use of the
ancient Court of "the Speech," as mentioned in the Laws and Franchises of
the Mine.  Now also a grant of sixty tons of timber was made by the King
towards rebuilding the parish church of Newent, as a tablet therein
declares.

How strictly the enclosures were preserved at this time against all
mining operations, is shown by the refusal which Sir Charles Harbord gave
to a petition presented to the Treasury by several gentlemen and
freeholders of the parish of Newland, for leave to make a coal level
through an enclosure, although they were backed by Sir Baynham
Throckmorton, Deputy-Governor of St. Briavel's Castle, who had also been
one of the Commissioners first appointed for carrying out the Act of
1668, and who gave it as his opinion that agreeing to the prayer of the
petition would conduce to the preservation of the woods in the Forest,
and the convenience and advantage of the country.  The wording of the
refusal was very peremptory, to the effect that "the enclosures could
only be preserved for timber by being kept discharged from all claims;"
that "although miners and quarrymen had been long permitted to dig where
they pleased, yet that they could not prove their right to do so; and as
to coal-works, any such claims were unknown, much less any liberty of
cutting his Majesty's woods for the support thereof; and the same ought
to be totally suppressed, and would be so by a good officer, as Colonel
Wade was in the time of the Usurpation, and that only by the Forest Law,
and the ordinary authority of a Justice of Peace."  It is not unlikely
that in the last observation a hint was intended to be given to Sir
Baynham Throckmorton, lest he should compromise his independent position
with the colliers in the Forest by publicly accepting, as he had done the
year before at their Mine Law Court, "their thankfull acknowledgment of
the many favors received by them from him," in return for which they
agreed that, when he "should send his own horses or waynes to any of the
colepitts for cole, the miners shall presently seame and load them before
any other person whatever."

Passing over an interval of three years, we come to the date of the
_third_ of the Mine Law Courts, held on the 8th September, 1678, at
"Clowerwall," before Sir Baynham Throckmorton, &c., whose favour it shows
the free-miners were most anxious to preserve, since, upon understanding
that the former order of 1668, forbidding any foreigner to convey or
deliver minerals, had proved prejudicial to him and his friends and
tenants, they now revoked the same, allowing any foreigner to carry fire
or lime coal for his own use; besides which, they constituted the Marquis
of Worcester, the then Constable of St. Briavel's Castle, as well as Sir
Baynham Throckmorton, his Deputy, "free miners to all intents and
purposes."

    This same Court decided that "the Winchester bushell, three of which
    were to make a barrell," should be the constant measure for "iron ore
    and coale," 4d. being the smallest price allowed to be taken for "a
    barrell of fire coale."  Pits having become numerous, they decreed
    that "none should presume to sink a pit within 100 yards of one
    already made without the consent of the undertakers, under a penalty
    of 100 dozen of good fire coale" (which is the earliest regulation
    for protecting coal-works).  Lastly, six "barganers" were to fix the
    price at which iron ore should be sold or carried to the different
    works.  The names of forty-eight miners are appended to this "order,"
    all written in the same hand opposite their respective marks.

The importance of securing a supply of timber for the navy led to
frequent Commissions of Inquiry, and the issue of Instructions, with
respect to the royal forests.  The Marquis of Worcester, Warden of Dean
Forest, made a Return, on the 23rd of April, 1680, minutely describing
the condition of the older trees, as well as of those planted ten years
before, together with the state of the fences surrounding the new
plantations.  Parts of several of the enclosures are reported to have
trees which were grown up out of the reach of cattle, and therefore fit
to be thrown open, an equal quantity of waste land being enclosed
instead, which was accordingly done by warrant, dated 21st July, 1680,
not more than eleven years from the time they were taken in: consequently
the young trees must have grown with rapidity, or else were left to take
their chance very early.  With the design as it would seem of making room
for the new plantations, it is further stated that "there were remaining
about 30 cabins, in several parts of the Forest, inhabited by about 100
poor people, and that they had taken care to demolish the said cabins,
and the enclosures about them."  It should be remarked that these poor
people must not be classed with the "free miners" of the Forest, although
"they had been born in it, and never lived elsewhere," but as "cabiners,"
who had to work seven years in the pits before they could become "free."

                       [Picture: The Speech House]

The _fourth_ Record of the Mine Law Court informs us that it sat before
Sir Baynham Throckmorton on the 27th April, 1680, at the Speech House,
yet barely completed, unless it were the spacious Court-room, devoted to
the public business of the Forest, for which it has been used ever since.
The "Order" then passed implies, that although the last Court had
appointed six "bargainers" to deal with the difficult question of valuing
the minerals offered for sale, inconvenience was yet experienced on this
head.

    It was therefore decreed that a dozen Winchester bushels of iron ore
    should be delivered at St. Wonnarth's furnace for 10s.; at
    Whitchurch, for 7s.; at Bishopswood, for 9s.; at Linton, for 9s.; at
    Longhope, for 9s.; at Flaxley, for 8s.; at Gunsmills (if rebuilt),
    for 7s.; at Blackney, for 6s.; at Lydney, for 6s.; at those in the
    Forest lately demolished (if rebuilt), for the same as before; at
    Redbrooke, for 4s. 6d.; at the Abbey, viz. Tintern, for 9s.; at
    Brockweare, for 6s. 6d.; at Redbrooke Passage, for 5s. 6d.; at
    Gunspill, for 7s.  So also no house or smith's coal was to be
    delivered on the banks of the Wye, below Huntsam Ferry, for less than
    8s. a dozen bushels, or for 4s. 6d. if only lime coal; and if above
    Huntsam, 3s. 6d., on a forfeiture of 100 dozen of good iron ore, the
    one half to his Majesty, and the other to the miner that will sue for
    the same, together with loss of "freedom" and utter expulsion from
    the mine-works--a very heavy penalty for such an offence, showing the
    arbitrary power assumed by the court, at one time conferring
    free-minership upon strangers and foreigners, and at another deposing
    the free miner merely for an over or even an under charge.

This "order" likewise informs us that the instructions given in 1674, to
pull down the King's iron-works in the Forest, had been so thoroughly
executed, that all the furnaces were ere this demolished, leaving such
only to be supplied with ore as were situated beyond the Forest limits.
These furnaces seem to have taken about 600 dozen bushels of ore at one
time, during the delivery of which no second party was allowed to come
in.  It is signed by fourteen out of the forty-eight free miners in their
own hands, which is so far an improvement; but if the iron trade was
unpromising, owing to the course which the Government felt constrained to
take, lest its development should endanger the timber, it was not so with
the coal, the getting of which the Crown would obviously regard with
favour, in the hope that it would relieve the woods from spoliation.
Accordingly, we shall find that from about this period on through the
next century coal-works were constantly on the increase, so as eventually
to throw the getting of iron-ore into the shade.  This last "order"
cancelled an agreement passed by the Mine Law Court on the 9th of March,
1675, to the effect that a legal-defence fund be raised; but it confirmed
the decree of a former court forbidding any young man to set up for
himself as a free miner unless he was upwards of twenty-one years of age,
and had served by indenture an apprenticeship of five years, and had also
given a bond of ten pounds to obey all the orders of the said court.

One of the most minute of the various perambulations of this Forest dates
from about this time, and serves to identify several spots, the early
names of which have long passed away.  On this occasion nineteen
"regarders" went the rounds, preserving much the same course as the
bounds of 28 Edward I.

The next, or _fifth_ session of the Mine Law Court was held at Clearwell,
on the 19th of September, 1682, Henry Melborne and William Wolseley,
Esqrs., acting as joint deputies for the Marquis of Worcester, constable
of St. Briavel's Castle.

    It confirmed, for the most part, the "orders" already issued, and
    further exacted the payment, within six days, of 6d. from every miner
    thirteen years of age and upwards, and an additional 6d. for every
    horse used in carrying mineral, "for raising a present sum of money
    for urgent occasions," and required all coal-pits which had been
    wrought out to be sufficiently secured.  Only fourteen signatures are
    attached to this "order," the remaining thirty-four free miners
    making their "marks."

In the course of the next year, A.D. 1683, a scheme resembling that
proposed ten years before was started by Sir John Erule, supervisor or
conservator of the Forest.  His project was to raise 5,390 pounds a year
for the Crown, upon an outlay, in the first place, of no more than 1,000
pounds, to be spent in building iron-works, and an annual consumption of
8,000 cords of wood out of the Forest, care being taken that no oak or
beech-tree, fit or likely to become fit for shipbuilding, be used.  The
Lords of the Treasury referred the plan to Mr. William Harbord and Mr.
Agar, to be investigated and reported on.  They rejected it however, as
was done in the former case, and for the same reason, namely, that if
carried out it would prove injurious to the woods and timber.

The _sixth_ order of the Court of Mine Law records that it assembled on
the 8th of December, 1685, at Clearwell, before William Wolseley, Esq.,
deputy to the Duke of Beaufort, constable of St. Briavel's Castle.

    Its principal design seems to have been that of confirming the former
    6d. rate, and authorizing the same to be raised to 10s., if
    necessary, towards keeping up a fund for supporting the miners'
    claims at law, which of late they had been obliged to do in the Court
    of Exchequer against Mr. Beck and others.  The order concludes with
    the following direction: "That one-half of the jury should be
    iron-miners, and the other half colliers," so rapidly had coal-mining
    advanced, and so important had its condition become.  An examination
    of the original document shows this order to have been signed by one
    person writing down the names of the forty-eight free miners, since
    they all exhibit the same hand-writing.

The _seventh_ of the orders still extant reports the Court of the Mine to
have been held at Clearwell on the 5th of April, 1687, before William
Wolseley, Esq., and commences by stating that more money was wanted for
legal purposes, and that every miner must pay two shillings, with two
shillings besides for every mine-horse, towards meeting them.

    It likewise directed that each coal-pit and dangerous mine-pit, if
    left unworked for a whole month together, should be fenced with a
    stone wall or posts and rails, under a penalty of 10s.  All previous
    orders, fixing the prices at which the minerals of the Forest were
    alone to be sold, were now abolished, not having been found to
    answer; and all miners were left at liberty to sell or carry and
    deliver their ore and coal to whom, where, and how they pleased; and
    whereas previously all colliers were entitled to be first served at
    the pits, now it was ordained that the inhabitants of the hundred
    should precede the trade, and that those miners only should keep
    horses who had land sufficient to feed them.  The following provision
    speaks for itself--"For the restrayning that pernicious and
    abominable sinne of perjury too much used in these licentious times,
    every myner convicted by a jury of 48 miners in the said Court shall
    for ever loose and totally forfeite his freedome as touching the
    mines, and bee utterly expelled out of the same, and all his working
    tooles and habitt be burnt before his face, and he never afterwards
    to be a witness or to be believed in any matter whatsoever."  Of the
    forty-eight jurymen whose names are appended to the above, sixteen
    signed.

It was in the month of January following (1688) that a riotous assemblage
of the people pulled down Worcester Lodge and York Lodge, besides much
defacing and spoiling the Speech House; an outrage connected probably
with the unpopularity of James II., after whom the Speech House and York
Lodge were called.  With reference to the general feeling of the
neighbourhood respecting the principles of the Revolution, Mr. Pyrke, of
Dean Hall, states that the release of Lord Lovelace, a supporter of the
Prince of Orange, out of Gloucester prison, was effected by "a young
gentleman of that county," an ancestor of his, "who took up arms for the
Prince, and drove out all the Popish crew that were settled in that
city," and that the exploit has been handed down in the following rude
lines, sung by his haymakers at their harvest supper:--

    "A health to Captain Pyrke, who in Little Dean was bred,
    And of a thousand men he was the head;
    He fought for the truth and the Protestant faith;
    We drink his good health, and so do rejoice.

    He down in the West King William did meet,
    And to him he sent both oxen and sheep,
    Till he had an order which from him did come,
    And with honour to Gloucester he brought him along.

    When he came to Gloucester he had but forty men,
    The city of Gloucester all barred unto him;
    The city was guarded with soldiers about,
    But he brought Lord Lovelace from his prison quite out.

    With sword in his hand he before them did go;
    He was not ashamed his face for to show:
    'They who have anything to say to Lord Lovelace,' said he,
    'O then, if they have, let them speak it to me.'

    Then up to the Mayor away he did get,
    And his wooden god to pieces did beat;
    And the big golden chair where King James sate
    He threw in the fire, which made a brave heat.

    Then up into Oxfordshire away he did ride,
    To bring Lord Lovelace safe home;
    He plundered the <DW7>s along as he goes,
    He could not endure to see us abused."

Two years later than the date of the above outrages, wood-fellings to the
extent of 6,186 short cords were made, pursuant to their Majesties'
letters of Privy Seal.  They were sold, it is said, for six shillings a
cord, which was considered a good price for the county of Gloucester.

A period of about five years from the time that the last was held brings
us to the date of the _eighth_ record of the Mine Law Court, viz. the
17th of January, 1692.  It was held at Clearwell, before the three
deputies of the Constable of St. Briavel's Castle, _i.e._ Tracy Catchmay,
John Higford, and George Bond, Esqrs.

    The Court levied a further contribution of 12d. upon every miner,
    with an additional 1s. on every mine horse, with which to clear off
    certain charges incurred in a recent suit in the Court of Exchequer
    at Westminster.  It extended the protective distance of 100 yards,
    within which every pit was guarded from being encroached upon by any
    other work, to 300 yards.  It also provided that no iron ore intended
    for Ireland should be shipped on the Severn or Wye for a less sum
    than 6s. 6d. for every dozen bushels.  This order was signed by
    sixteen out of the forty-eight miners with their own hands, the rest
    making their marks only.

To this period is assigned Dr. Parsons's quaint remarks on the Forest.
"It abounds," he says, "with springs for the most part of a brownish or
umber colour, occasioned by their passage through the veynes of oker, of
which there is a great plenty, or else through the rushy tincture of the
mineralls of the ore.  The ground of the Forest is more inclined to wood
and cole than corn, yet they have enough of it too.  The inhabitants are,
some of them, a sort of robustic wild people, that must be civilized by
good discipline and government.  The ore and cinder wherewith they make
their iron (which is the great imployment of the poorer sort of
inhabitants) 'tis dug in most parts of ye Forest, one in the bowells, and
the other towards the surface of the earth.  But, whether it be by virtue
of the Forrest laws, or other custome, the head Gaviler of the Forrest,
or others deputed by him, provided they were born in the Hundred of St.
Briavel's, may go into any man's grounds whatsoever, within the
limitation of the Forrest, and dig or delve for ore and cinders without
any molestation.  There are two sorts of ore: the best ore is your brush
ore, of a blewish colour, very ponderous and full of shining specks like
grains of silver; this affordeth the greatest quantity of iron, but being
melted alone produceth a mettal very short and brittle.  To remedy this
inconvenience, they make use of another material which they call cinder,
it being nothing else but the refuse of the ore after the melting hath
been extracted, which, being melted with the other in due quantity, gives
it that excellent temper of toughness for which this iron is preferred
before any other that is brought from foreign parts.  But it is to be
noted that in former times, when their works were few and their vents
small, they made use of no other bellows but such as were moved by the
strength of men, by reason whereof their fires were much less intense
than in the furnaces they now imploy; so that, having in them only melted
downe the principal part of the ore, they rejected the rest as useless,
and not worth their charge: this they call their cinder, and is found in
an inexhaustible quantity throughout all the parts of the country where
any glomerys formerly stood, for so they were then called."




CHAPTER IV.
A.D. 1692-1758.


Condition of the Forest described, and management
examined--Depredations--Ninth and tenth orders of the Miners'
Court--Timber injured by the colliers--The Forest in its best state,
1712--Eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth orders of the Miners'
Court--Fourteenth order of the Miners' Court--Swainmote Court
discontinued--Extension of coal-works and injury of trees--Forest
neglected--Fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth orders of the Miners'
Court--Grant of 9200 feet of timber to the Gloucester Infirmary.

Reverting to the general condition and management of the Forest, an
important commission was issued this year, 1692, to the Crown officers
and some of the neighbouring gentry, directing them to examine and
inquire into the six following particulars:--I.  The quantity of
coppicewood fit for being cut from year to year for twenty-one years to
come--II.  The annual charge for the next twenty-one years of maintaining
the enclosures--III.  What the cost would be of disenclosing certain
coal-pits, with which some of the plantations were encumbered--IV.  What
the salaries of the Crown officers of the Forest amounted to, and the
cost of making such repairs as the buildings they occupied required--V.
As to the way in which the timber fellings of 1688 had been disposed of,
with the state of the enclosures, if those who had charge of them had
duly protected them from injury--and VI.  How far trespass and pounding
had been enforced, or unlawful building permitted.

These were all very important questions, and under the first head, as to
wood fit to be cut for cording, &c., the commissioners report, that
"there are great and valuable quantities of scrubbed beech and birch,
with some holly, hazel, and orle, fit to be cut and disposed of, being
192,000 cords, worth at 4s. 10d., amounting to 46,488 pounds, of which
12,000 cords might be cut every year, worth 2,900 pounds.  Or, as the
total quantity of such wood was 615,500 cords, their worth at 4s. 10d.
was 148,745 pounds 16s. 8d., to which 60,000 pounds may safely be added
for future clearings if a twenty-one years' lease be granted.  100 pounds
a year would suffice to keep the enclosures in repair."  The
commissioners, in contemplating the expediency of making a grant adapted
to the requirements of iron-making, supposing the King's furnaces to be
restored, considered that it "would utterly destroy the Forest, now the
best nursery for a navy in the world;" since the party obtaining such a
lease would be sure to consider their own advantage rather than the
preservation of the district.  They also urged that a grant like that
intimated was opposed to the intentions of the Act of 20th Charles II.,
as also to the previous decisions of 1662 and 1674, and would cause much
dissatisfaction amongst the freeholders of the Forest, who were prepared
to petition against it.  The commissioners recommended that "the making
of the fellets, if put in execution, should certainly be intrusted to the
present officers, who had given sufficient testimony of their care in
such matters."  Their report adds that "the Lea Bayly is now a spring of
oak and beech of four, five, and six years' growth, but much cropped and
spoiled by cattle, by reason the enclosures made for the preservation
thereof have in the night been several times pulled down and destroyed by
persons unknown."  The other places mentioned in the Act of 1668, called
"Cannop Fellet, Buckholt, Beachenhurst, and Moyey Stock," are described
as "generally very well grown with oak and beech of fifty, forty, and
thirty years' growth, and under, many thousand of them being forty foot
and upwards, without a bough to hurt them."  They further state, that
some of the enclosure fences, especially those on the north-east side of
the Forest, would cost 137 pounds 10s. to repair, and 30 pounds a year
afterwards, perhaps, to keep them good, the other parts formerly enclosed
not needing reparation, the trees being grown up past danger from deer or
cattle, "unless in case of some accident, or pulling down by the rabble,
as hath been sometimes done."  Viewing the places where the last fellets
for cordwood were made in 1690, the commissioners state that "a very
great stock has been left upon the ground for timber, and all imaginable
care taken by the officers employed in making the said fellets, and
preserving all the stores and saplings, with the principal shoots of such
beech as grow upon old stools well sheltered by other woods, for the
improvement thereof."  With reference to the expediency of throwing open
such of the enclosures as contained coal-pits, we learn that no
inconvenience was felt on that account, as "not more than six pits had
ever been so situated, and now not one, those plantations having grown
up, and their fences down."  The sum total of salaries paid to the
conservators and six keepers was 210 pounds per annum, arising from wood
sales.  Various repairs are stated to have been necessary.  The Castle of
St. Briavel's, it is said, "hath been a very great and ancient building,
but the greatest part is ruined and fallen down, and only some part kept
up for a place to hold the courts in for the King's manor and hundred
thereof, and also for a prison for debtors attached by process out of the
said courts, and for offenders and trespassers within the Forest.  The
same is very necessary to be repaired; and for mending the roof and
tyling, and in glazing, plaistering, repairing the prison windows, and
building a new pound, &c., will cost the sum of 10 pounds 14s. 2d.  The
cost of rebuilding Worcester and York Lodges, pulled down by the rioters
in 1688, and repairing the Speech House, which was likewise much injured
at that time, will be, they calculate, 219 pounds 10s."

As to injury done to the woods, the following presentments amongst many
others made by the keepers were instanced:--"John Simons of Blackney, for
cutting green orle wood.  Edward Revoke and James Drew of Little Dean,
for cutting and carrying away a young oak.  The same Edward Revoke, for
building some part of his house with wood out of the said Forest."
Respecting these depredations the commissioners recommend that, in
consideration of the colliers having, time out of mind, had an allowance
of wood, but not timber for the support of their pits, but which has been
stopped for some time, it may be again allowed to them by order of the
verderers, and taken by view of a woodward or keeper.  The Attachment and
Swainmote Courts are stated to have been "duly kept, although
ineffectually to the preservation of the Forest, as they can only
convict, but cannot punish; and that the trespass-money paid into the
said courts in this reign does not exceed 5s., the only remedy being in
having a justice seat held for the purpose once a year, for six or seven
years."  The report is signed by Wm. Cooke, Re Pynder, Wm. Boevey, J.
Viney, Jo. Kyrle, Phil. Ryley.

The _ninth_ Mine Law Court was held on the 25th of April, 1694, at
Clearwell, before John Higford and George Bond, Esqrs.

    It confirmed the punishment already awarded against "the abominable
    sin of perjury," to prevent which it directs that "no person shall be
    permitted to sweare in his own cause unless it be for a matter
    transacted underground, or where it was difficult to have any
    witnesses;" nor shall any bargain be binding unless it be proved by
    two witnesses.

    All causes of debt or damage amounting to 40s. were to be heard on
    both sides as in other courts, the verdict being given by a jury of
    twelve miners; but in lesser causes by the Constable of the Court.
    Provision was also made that "every defendant have twenty-four hours'
    notice to provide for his defence," every witness being allowed 12p.
    a-day, the fees of the Court remaining the same as before, all which,
    as well as the defendant's time, the plaintiff losing the cause, or
    being non-suited, had to pay.  This "Order" also reduces the price of
    ore for Ireland from 8s. to 5s. a dozen bushels, pitched at
    Brockwere, or if at Wye's Green for 4s. ditto; fire-cole at 8s. a
    dozen bushels; smith's-cole, 6s., and charking at 8s., "without
    handing, thrusting, kicking, or knocking the same," under the usual
    penalty.  Eighteen miners out of the jury of forty-eight signed their
    names themselves "to this Order," the remaining thirty only making
    their marks.

The earliest particular recorded in the next century bears date 1701, on
the 27th January, in which year the _tenth_ Miners' Court of forty-eight
sat at Clearwell, before Serjeant Powlett and George Bond, Esq., deputies
to Charles Earl of Berkeley.

    Its proceedings were as follows:--Certain temporary orders, dated the
    12th March, 1699, and 11th November, 1700, regulating the loading of
    horses and carts, forbidding any coal to be sent off by the river Wye
    below Welch-Bicknor, authorizing the raising of money for paying the
    costs of the miners' debts in law, securing the Records of their
    Court, and making the present deputy constable of St. Briavel's
    Castle a free miner, were confirmed and made perpetual.  Mention is
    also made for the first time of "the utmost seventy" being the
    greatest number ever comprised in the miners' jury.  The order
    further directs that the Records of Mine-law, used at the hearing of
    the suit in the Exchequer, be recorded, and put into a chest, to be
    left in the custody of Francis Wyndham, Esq., whom the court had made
    a free miner, and that in paying any of the costs incurred in that
    cause a legal discharge be taken.  Now the ton of 21 cwt. was fixed
    as a weight of coal, to be sold for 5s. to an inhabitant of the
    hundred, or for 6s. to foreigners; and every pit was to be provided
    with scales.  Upwards of twenty of the forty-eight miners who formed
    the jury at this court put their names to the above verdict, the
    remainder being marksmen.

In the year 1705, Edward Wilcox, Esq., Surveyor-General to the Royal
Forests, having carefully examined the condition of the woods in the
Forest of Dean, stated that he found them very full of young trees, of
which two thirds were beech, overtopping the oaks, to their injury; and
he recommended that one sixteenth part, or about 700 acres, should be
annually cleared and fenced in, which would yield a profit to the Crown
of 3,500 pounds a year, and leave the standard oaks and beech to grow to
perfection.  Lord Treasurer Godolphin consented to this proposal, and
granted a warrant for carrying it into execution; but it was petitioned
against by those who claimed a right of common, whose free-pasturage
would thereby be lessened; at the same time, however, others were
desirous that it might take effect, as they would get a living by cutting
the underwood, and preparing it for the furnaces.  At length on the 4th
of July, 1707, the Attorney-General, Sir Simon Harcourt, decided--that
"no claim or right of common could prevent the enclosing, keeping in
severalty, or improving, as her Majesty should direct, the 11,000 acres
mentioned in the Act of 20 Charles II., and preserving the same as a
nursery of wood and timber only."

Another event of this year was the holding a Court of Mine Law, on the
1st of July, at Mitcheldean, but afterwards by adjournment at Coleford,
before George Bond and Roynon Jones, Esqrs., deputies.

    It confirmed the directions of a former court of forty-eight, that
    the law-papers produced at the late suit in the Court of Exchequer,
    with all the other records of the Mine Law Court, be collected
    forthwith, and consigned to the care of Francis Wyndham, Esq.; and
    that the law debts then incurred be at length paid, out of a 1s. rate
    upon every miner and mine-horse.  The 20s. penalty for leaving pits
    unfenced was also reimposed.  This "Order" bears the genuine
    signatures of nineteen out of the forty-eight jurymen, the rest
    merely making their marks.

In the next year, A.D. 1708, Mr. Wilcox, the Surveyor-General,
represented to Lord Godolphin that the inhabitants of the neighbourhood
had been stripping some of the trees of their bark, whereupon those
trees, with any others not likely to be of any use to the navy, were
ordered to be cut down and used for gates, stiles, and fences, or sold
for the benefit of the Crown.  Three years later a similar charge was
preferred against certain colliers for cutting trees and wood, but we do
not find that it came to anything.

Sir Robert Atkyns, to whom this Forest was well known, describes its
condition at this time, as "containing only six houses, which are the
lodges for so many keepers.  There had been many cottages erected, but
they had been lately pulled down;" not that there were literally no other
dwellings in it, for the ancient "assarted" lands were probably so
occupied, but the mining population lived for the most part in the
surrounding villages.  Speaking of the different Forest courts, he
says--"the Swainmote Court is to preserve the vert and venison, and is
kept at the Speech-house, which is a large strong house, newly built in
the middle of the Forest for that purpose.  There is another court called
the Miners' Court, which is directed by a steward appointed by the
constable of the Forest, and by juries of miners, returned to judge
between miner and miner, who have their particular laws and customs, to
prevent their encroaching upon one another, and to encourage them to go
on quietly in their labour in digging after coals and iron-ore, with
which this Forest doth abound."  The room in which most of these courts
were held retains its original character, only it has been floored with
wood, and is no longer divided by rails into compartments for the jury
and the accused.  Stains of human blood once marked the ceiling over the
north-east corner of the apartment, said to have dropped down from the
room above, where an unfortunate poacher, who had been much injured by a
gun, was confined.  It is asserted that for many years no water could
remove nor whitewash hide the unsightly marks.

               [Picture: Court Room in "the Speech House."]

In the Commissioners' Report of 1788 it is said that about this time
(1712) the Forest was probably in its best state, although its courts had
not been so regularly held since the Revolution as before, yet that the
greatest attention had been given to it by the different authorities
under the Crown.  And as the commissioners deplore the unfavourable
change which had subsequently taken place, we may contrast the state into
which the Forest had then fallen, with its present condition, so much
more hopeful and lucrative than it had been at that the brightest period
of its past history.  There are no public documents relating to this
Forest to be met with for many years from this time; indeed it is hardly
ever mentioned in the book of the Surveyor-General of the Crown lands,
which only contained warrants for felling timber for the navy or for
sale.  The produce was for the most part directed to be applied to the
repairing of lodges, roads, or fences, or the payment of salaries to
officers, or fee-gifts from the Crown.  The proceedings of the Court of
the Miners, on the contrary, remain recorded, and serve to fill up the
interval.  They show that one was held at the Speech-house on the 7th of
January, 1717, before Richard Machen and William James, Esqrs., deputies.

    By it a 6d. levy was made on every miner, and on every working horse,
    towards meeting any law expenses which the Society of Miners might
    incur in defending their rights; and should more money be required,
    authorizing a jury of only twelve miners, with the consent of the two
    deputy-constables, to order the paying of the same.  It further
    imposed a fine of upwards of 30 pounds on any miner who should sue
    another respecting any matter relating to the mine in any other
    court.  It also constituted the Honourable Matthew Ducie Morton,
    Thomas Gage, John Wyndham, Richard Machen, William James, and
    Christopher Bond, Esqrs., free miners, "out of the due and great
    respect, honour, and esteem borne towards them."  We need not call in
    question the truthfulness of such protestations; but doubtless, had
    these worthy miners perceived the inconsistency of such admissions,
    they would not have so readily dispensed with the ancient regulation
    which restricted the fellowship of the mine to those who had worked
    therein.  They were well intended at the time, but long afterwards
    weakened in a legal point of view the free miners' rights.  This
    "Order" exhibits only eleven original signatures, the thirty-seven
    other jurymen making their marks.

Only two years intervened between the holding of the Court just
mentioned, and the one which followed it, held at the Speech House, on
10th November, 1719, before Richard Machen and William James, Esqrs.,
Deputies.

    On this occasion certain previous orders were cancelled, and in their
    stead it was determined that no one living out of the Hundred of St.
    Briavel's should convey any coal out of the Forest unless he belonged
    to the Forest division of the county, and carried for his own private
    use.  A penalty of 5 pounds was imposed upon any person under
    twenty-one years of age carrying ore or coal.  All traffic in coal,
    either up or down the Wye, was to stop at Welch Bicknor, between
    which and Monmouth Bridge no coal was to be pitched.  At Monmouth,
    fire-coal was to be sold at 9s. the dozen bushels; smith's-coal at
    8s.; and lime-coal at 5s. 6d.  Above Lydbrook, on the Wye, fire-coal
    was to be sold at 8s. a ton, or the dozen barrels; smith's-coal at
    6s.; and lime-coal at 3s.  One free miner was not to sell any
    fire-coal to another under 5s. per ton of 21 cwt.  Roynon Jones and
    Edmund Probyn, Esqrs., were made free miners.  Lastly, any former
    orders in private hands, together with all writings relating to the
    Free-miners' Court, were to be delivered to William James, Esq., to
    be kept in the said miners' chest, at the Speech-house.  Perhaps this
    direction was, with few exceptions, complied with, not, it would
    seem, in every case, as several of those alluded to in the existing
    orders of the forty-eight cannot be found.  Nineteen signatures made
    by the parties themselves occur at the end of this Order; the rest
    are only marks.

Nine years passed away before another full Mine Law Court is recorded.
This was on the 12th November, 1728, by adjournment, at the Speech House,
before Maynard Colchester, Esq., and William James, Gent.

    The following gentlemen were made free miners:--Thomas Wyndham, of
    Clearwell; Maynard Colchester, of Westbury; William Hall Gage, son
    and heir to Lord Viscount Gage; William Jones, of Nass, Esqrs.;
    William Jones, of Soylewell, Gent.; Robert James, of the same place,
    Gent.; Thomas Wyndham the younger, of Clearwell, Gent.; Thomas Pyrke
    the younger, of Little Dean, Gent.; and William Lane, Deputy Clerk.
    A forfeit of 10 pounds was laid upon any miner who had received a
    "forbidment" from another, if he persisted in carrying on his work in
    that place.  The distance of 300 yards, which, by a former order,
    made in 1692, protected every pit from interruption, was now enlarged
    to 500 yards in all levels in all parts of the mines called "beneath
    the wood," under the same penalty; and further, the giving away of
    coals was forbidden under a fine of 5 pounds.  Twenty-two original
    signatures appear at the foot of this Order; the other names are
    merely marked.

The extension of the Forest coal-works, in depth and underground
operations, as indicated by the enlargement of the protective distance,
effected a corresponding change in the kind of timber required for
propping the mine.  That is, as the pressure from above increased, owing
to the workings being carried deeper, stronger stays and supports were
necessary than cordwood or saplings supplied.  Nothing less than the
stems and main limbs of timber trees would suffice.  How the colliers
obtained these requisites, the particulars given in the following
complaint, made in 1735 by the Surveyor-General, show:--"A practice has
prevailed among the colliers of boring large holes in trees that they may
become dotard and decayed, and, as such, may be delivered to them gratis
for the use of their collieries."  The only notice, it cannot be called a
remedy, which this evil obtained, was that, for the future, directions
were given that "such bored trees as appeared to be dead and spoiled
shall be felled, taking care that none be cut down that may be of use to
the navy."

It is, however, further stated, that the colliers frequently obtained
from the keepers the best trees in the Forest, although their claims
merely extended to pit-timber.  The existence of so serious an evil
proves that many things were going wrong, and we are prepared for the
representations made the next year (1736) to the Treasury by Christopher
Bond, Esq., Conservator and Supervisor of the Forest.  He reported that
"after the Act of the 20th Charles II., 11,000 acres had been enclosed;
that the officers were duly elected, Forest courts held, and offenders
prosecuted and punished, to the successful rearing of a fine crop of
wood; but that within the last 30 years these elections had been
neglected, the Courts discontinued, and offenders left unpunished; the
Officers of Inheritance had grown remiss and negligent, so that some
enclosures, and those of only a few acres of the 11,000, were kept up,
and these not carefully repaired; a great number of cottages were erected
upon the borders of the Forest, the inhabitants whereof lived by rapine
and theft; that there were besides many other offences committed, such as
intercommuning of foreigners, surcharges of commoners, trespasses in the
fence month and winter haining, and in the enclosures; keeping hogs,
sheep, goats, and geese, being uncommonable animals, in the Forest;
cutting and burning the nether vert, furze, and fern; gathering and
taking away the crabs, acorns, and mast; and other purprestures and
offences; carrying away such timber trees as were covertly cut down in
the night time; by which practices several hundred fine oaks were yearly
destroyed, and the growth of others prevented; and that it was feared
that some of the inferior officers of the Forest, finding offenders to go
on with impunity, were not only grown negligent, but also connived at, if
not partook in, the spoil daily committed."

To remedy this bad state of things, Mr. Bond proposed that a new law
should be passed, explanatory of the Act of 1668, by enforcing the Forest
officers to do their duty, and by superseding the odious, because
unlimited and arbitrary, proceedings of the former Chief Justices in Eyre
by a jury, and convictions before the verderers at their Swainmote Court,
with a power lodged in those officers to fine, under a certain sum, all
offenders.  The Surveyor-General of the Crown Woods had the above
proposal submitted to his consideration, and was directed to attend the
Attorney and Solicitor-General, Sir John Willis and Sir Dudley Ryder, to
take their opinion thereon, which was, that "the offences were chiefly
owing to the neglect of putting the Stat. 20th Charles II. in execution;
and they recommended, therefore, that the several vacant offices of the
Forest should be filled up, that the Forest Courts should be regularly
held, and that the officers should be strictly enjoined to do their
duty."  It is disappointing to find no evidence that anything was done in
consequence of this opinion.

About this time the _fifteenth_ of the series of "Orders" enacted by the
Mine Law Court of forty-eight, informs us that it met by adjournment at
the Speech House on the 6th of December, 1737, before William Jones,
Esq., Deputy Constable of St. Briavel's Castle.

    Owing to the injury which it was considered foreigners had done to
    the free miners by carrying coal out of the Forest for merchandise,
    it was decided that for the future no such carrying should be allowed
    except to certain persons named, under a penalty of 5 pounds, or
    property to that amount, or imprisonment in St. Briavel's Castle for
    a year, to the perpetrator or any cognizant thereof.  From this it
    seems perfectly plain that the free miner regarded the carrying of
    coal as much a part of his profession as getting it, and therefore
    equally requiring protection.  The "Order" proceeds to direct that in
    every suit before the Mine-Law Court the plaintiff and defendant were
    to pay 6d. to the Clerk for entering the same, which was to form his
    salary.  The rights of free-minership were conferred upon the
    Honourable Thomas Gage, Christopher Bond the younger, Esq., Thomas
    Crawley, Esq., James Rooke, Esq., Thomas James, Gent., Thomas Barron
    the younger, Gent., Thomas Marshall, Yeoman.  John Wade was to be
    made "free" on his working a year and a day in the mine; and making
    it a rule that a foreigner's son, being born in the Hundred, and
    seeking to become a free miner, was to serve by indenture an
    apprenticeship of seven years.  The above "Order" has only
    twenty-three marks attached to it, more than half the jury signing
    their own names.

Proceeding to the date and objects of the next "Order" of the same Court,
we find that it had been adjourned to the 2nd March, 1741, at the Speech
House, before Edward Tomkins Machen, Esq., Deputy.  It commences by
explaining the terms "above" and "beneath the wood" to be two ancient
divisions of the Forest, "beginning at the river Wye at Lydbrook, where
the brooke there leading from the forges falls into the said river, and
so up the said brooke or stream unto a place in the said Forest called
Moyery Stock, and from thence along a Wayn-way at the bottom of a place
called the Salley Vallett, and so along the same way between the two old
enclosures that did belong to Ruardean and Little Dean Walks unto
Cannop's Brooke, and down the said brooke to Cannop's Bridge; and from
thence along the road or highway to the Speech-house, and from thence
along the said highway to Foxe's Bridge, and from thence down Blackpool
Brooke to Blakeney."

It is worthy of remark, that the same boundary line, with only a trifling
difference, defines the two townships of East and West Dean, into which
the Forest is now divided for the purposes of the Poor Law Amendment Act.
The connexion of this division with the Court of Mine Law consisted
simply in this, that the attendance of a free miner on the jury was
regulated by the position of his works and habitation in one or other of
them.

    A 5 pounds penalty was laid upon all miners who should send or carry
    any coals to Hereford or Monmouth by the Wye, except lime-coal at
    "the New Wears," at 4s. a dozen bushels.  A similar fine was
    inflicted on any inhabitant of the Forest division of the county who
    should "presume" to carry coal otherwise than for their own use; so
    also no miner was to work more than two pits at one time; nor to
    carry coal for any person not a free miner; neither to sell fire-coal
    or stone-coal charks under 7s. a dozen bushels, or 5s. if smith's
    coal, at Redbrook, which, if refused there, a "forbid" shall be
    declared until the former coal should be accepted.  This "Order"
    further enacted that if coal was found in any bargeman's boat, and he
    refuse to say from whom he had it, a general "forbid" shall be
    declared that no miner serve him with any more.  A free miner is
    briefly defined to be "such as have lawfully worked at coal a year
    and a day."  A foreigner selling coal at Hereford for less than 13s.
    per ton was to be summoned, or abide the consequences of a general
    "forbid."  Should there be at any time more than a sufficiency of
    coal for the trade on the Wye, the barge-owners were to employ the
    services of the miners, or be fined according to their wages.  A
    horse-load to the Wye was fixed at 2 cwt. and a quarter for 6d., ten
    such making a ton, to be weighed, if required, under a forfeit of 2s.
    6d.  Miners beneath the wood were bound to sell not less than a cwt.
    of coal for 4d.; 3 bushels of smith's coal for 5d.; and 1 bushel of
    lime coal for 1d. at the pit.  No team was to be served with less
    than 2 cwt. nor more than 21 cwt., to be weighed, if desired, or
    forfeit 5 pounds.  This Order constituted Richard Clarke and Edward
    Tomkins Machen, Esqrs., free miners, and exhibits at the end the
    penmanship of only 18 of the jury, all the rest merely making their
    marks.

We now arrive at the _seventeenth_ or last "Order" issued by the Mine Law
Court.  It dates 22nd October, 1754, and sat at the Speech House, before
Maynard Colchester and Thomas James, Esqrs.

    It records the election to free-minerships of the Right Honble.
    George Augustus Lord Dursley, Charles Wyndham of Clearwell, Esq.,
    Rev. Roynon Jones of Monmouth, John Probyn of Newland, Esq., his son
    Edmund, Maynard Colchester the younger, Esq., Roynon Jones the
    younger, of Nass, Esq., Kedgwin Webley of London, Gentleman, Kedgwin
    Hoskins the elder, of Clearwell, Gent., William Probyn the younger,
    of Newland, Gent., Mr. Kedgwin Hoskins the younger, of Clearwell, Mr.
    Edmund Probyn the younger, son of the said William Probyn, Mr. Thomas
    James the younger, Mr. Thomas Baron the younger, son of Mr. Thomas
    Baron of Coleford, Herbert Rudhall Westfaling, of Rudhall in
    Herefordshire, Esq., John Clarke, of "The Hill," in Herefordshire,
    Esq., Thomas Foley the elder, of "Stoke Eddy," in the said shire,
    Esq., Thomas Foley the younger, of the same, Esq., John Symons, of
    the Mine, in the same county, Esq., Ion Yate, of Arlingham, Esq.,
    William Lane, of "King's Standley," and Barrow Lawrence, of Bruen's
    Lodge, Gent.

So full a list of persons of position and influence as this Order
exhibits, lending their names to the Free Miners' Society, indicates the
existence of considerable importance in that body; and yet this was the
last Court having forty-eight free miners on the jury whose proceedings
have been preserved, the fact being that they failed to agree in their
verdicts, and then gentlemen refused to attend, owing, it is said, to the
violent quarrels and disputes which arose between foreigners possessed of
capital, who now began to be admitted to the works, and the free miners.
It is also reported that the decisions of the court were seldom observed,
no Act of Parliament having passed to render them valid.  The former
protective distance between one mine and another was increased from 500
to 1000 yards of any levels, and enforced by a 5 pounds penalty.  The
order concludes with directing that

    "The water-wheel engine at the Orling Green, near Broadmoor, be taken
    to be a level to all intents and purposes."  This machine was
    evidently the first of its kind erected in the Forest, as was also
    the steam-engine which superseded it, each manifesting the
    improvements going on in the method of working the mines.  The
    signatures appended to this final "Order" show twenty-five marksmen,
    and twenty-three names written by their possessors.

The Benefaction-Boards of the Gloucester Infirmary record, in reference
to this period, the following particular:--"A gracious benefaction from
his Majesty King George II. of 9,200 feet of rough oak timber from the
Forest of Deane."




CHAPTER V.
A.D. 1758-1800.


Mr. John Pitt suggested 2,000 acres to be planted--The Forest
surveyed--Great devastations and encroachments--The roads--Act of 1786,
appointing a Commission of Inquiry--New plantations recommended--Messrs.
Drivers employed to report on the Forest--Corn riots--Mitcheldean market.

Reverting to the state of the woods and timber in the Forest, it appears
that ere this the old enclosures had been thrown open, the trees planted
early in this century having attained to considerable size, and some
parts so far cleared as to suggest the formation of new plantations.  In
1758 John Pitt, Esq., then Surveyor-General of Woods, &c., proposed to
the Treasury that 2,000 acres should be enclosed, which was ordered to be
done accordingly; but probably it was executed in part only, since Mr.
Pitt was removed from his office five years afterwards, when a survey of
the timber was made, and it was computed that there were 27,302 loads of
timber fit for the navy, 16,851 loads of about sixty years' growth, and
20,066 loads dotard and decaying.  To this period also belongs the first
opening of the old Fire-engine colliery, or Orling Green coal-work, galed
to "foreigners," but subsequently conveyed by them at different times in
shares to various persons, including the gaveller, by whom the first
fire-engine was put up about 1777, a date also memorable as being the one
on which the Court of Free Miners wholly ceased to act.

Mr. John Pitt was reinstated in 1763, and represented that he found
"great spoil had been committed, and great quantities of wood and timber,
amounting in value to 3,255 pounds, cut by order of Sir Edmund Thomas,
the late Surveyor-General, without warrant."  The year following, Mr.
Pitt presented a second memorial to the Government, proposing that 2,000
acres more should be taken in, at an estimated cost of 2,077 pounds.  The
usual warrant was issued for the purpose, authorizing wood-sales to that
amount, although the expense ultimately came to 3,676 pounds 5s. 6.5d.

The attention of Parliament was directed at this time to the best means
of increasing the supply of timber to the Royal dockyards.  A committee
formed for investigating the matter produced the clearest evidence of
decrease of navy timber throughout the kingdom, to the extent of at least
two-thirds within the last forty years, according to the experience of
thirty different dealers.  The annual amount of such timber supplied from
Dean Forest is stated to have averaged at this time about 2,000 loads.
Probably the most correct view of the disposition of the woods,
plantations, &c., and of the district in general, is afforded by Mr.
Taylor's map of the county of Gloucester, published in 1777.  It
indicates the enclosures formed since the beginning of the century, as
well as a considerable extent of woodland; indeed we know, from the
return made to a Parliamentary survey taken in 1783, that the Forest
contained 90,382 oak-trees, amounting to 95,043 loads, besides 17,982
beech-trees, in which were 16,492 loads; to protect which more
effectually, Mr. Pitt instituted the place of "watch-man," attaching to
it a dwelling-house on Oaken Hill, and a small quantity of land, with a
salary of 10 pounds, and any fines or rewards obtained on the conviction
of timber stealers.

Very mischievous devastations and encroachments were nevertheless still
continued.  For instance, Mr. Slade, the purveyor to the navy, stated to
the Treasury, that "he had discovered and was informed of most shameful
depredations of the oak timber, which was cut every day by persons living
round the Forest; and that for some years it had been the custom to steal
the body of the tree in the night, and cut it into cooper's wares,
leaving the top part on the spot, which the keepers took as their
perquisite; and that whole trees were conveyed every spring tide to
Bristol; and that when he was at Gatcomb, in one day there were five or
six teams came with timber, planks, and knees, winter-felled, and other
timber, among which were several useful pieces for ships of fifty and
sixty-four guns."  It was also stated by Mr. Pitt, the Surveyor-General,
that "everything in his power had been done to put a stop to them, but
that the offenders had become so desperate and daring as to bid defiance
to his deputies, and render every attempt of his in a summary way totally
ineffectual," adding that, "not long before, a number of persons in
disguise had openly cut down two large timber-trees at Yorkley, in Dean
Forest, and wounded several keepers who attempted to oppose them."  Mr.
Colchester likewise informed the Government that "the greatest part of
the fine timber this Forest has been so famous for has been cut down, and
the large and extensive tract of land formerly covered with the noblest
timber is now become a barren waste and heath."

Mr. Thomas Blunt, the deputy-surveyor, also reports, in allusion to this
period, that, "having formerly pulled down and destroyed many cottages,
fences, and enclosures, he had latterly been obliged to desist, fearing
his life and property were endangered by the repeated threats and insults
of the encroachers and their party."  He adds that "about 1000 loads of
oak timber were annually being felled for the use of the miners, of which
at least one-fifth part was fit for naval purposes; and that the great
waste, spoil, and destruction of timber and wood on the Forest is and
hath been occasioned by an improper application of the timber delivered
to the miners for the use of their works, one-half of which would have
been more than sufficient, for that he had frequently seized large
quantities of offal timber, and such other timber as the miners could not
use in their works; and in particular that on or about the 28th of
January, 1783, he seized and took 586 feet of oak-timber, and more than
200 cleft pieces of oak, called kibbles, from one George Martin, who
acknowledged that they had been stolen.  He had also seized at the
Fire-Engine in the Forest between two and three waggonloads of timber,
hewn up and converted by the colliers into cooper's wares for market, as
the neighbourhood, being a great cinder country, would require."  Joseph
Pyrke, Esq., a verderer and deputy-constable, further stated that
"numberless encroachments, enclosing one, two, or three acres, were taken
in for gardens by the idle poor, and also by people in good
circumstances," and that "nothing short of a capital offence would ever
preserve the remaining timber."

We obtain information on the subject of pit-timber from Mr. Hartland's
evidence before the Parliamentary Commissioners.  He says that "the sorts
of wood or timber delivered to the miners were oak and beech, and none
other; chiefly oak in the summer, more pits being sunk in the summer than
in the winter, and the keepers having the bark; more beech is allowed in
the winter than oak.  But oak timber is necessary, and is always allowed,
for sinking the pits, and for making what the miners call the gateway, or
gangway, from the body of coal to the pit, and also for the gutters in
the levels, for draining off the water; but beech, birch, orle, holly, or
any other kind of wood, would serve for the purpose of getting coal, and
supporting the earth after the coal is taken away, but none is ever
delivered to them but oak and beech."  He goes on to say that "the evil
of the colliers misapplying the timber served to them by the keepers
could only be remedied by refusing it for the future to such parties as
had been detected therein.  Fining them was found impracticable, owing to
the difficulty of proving the timber to have been the King's, without
which proof the justices could hardly act."

Rewards of 20 pounds, and in gross cases of 50 pounds, were offered to
any persons making a discovery whereby any of the offenders should be
convicted; but without much effect, for the sufficient reason, as stated
in the official report of 1788, that the resident officers derived
advantages from the continuance of the abuse.  Thus the Deputy-Surveyor
took as perquisites the tops of all timber rejected by the navy, as well
as of all stolen timber; all trees found felled by wood-stealers; one
moiety of the cord-wood made from the offal-wood of timber delivered to
the miners, and of stolen timber, besides from four pence to six pence
for every tree felled for the use of the miners; whereby his salary was
raised from 50 to 500 pounds a year.  It was much the same with the six
keepers, who received one shilling on every order for delivery of timber
to the miners or colliers; the moiety of all offal-wood of timber cut for
the miners; the moiety of all cord-wood of stolen timber; all lengths or
pieces of trespass, and the bark of timber delivered to the miners,
stolen timber called kibbles, and of all stolen timber found within their
respective walks, by means of which their stipends were increased 100
pounds a year each.

Mr. Miles Hartland, the assistant-deputy-surveyor, in his examination, on
the 15th of May, 1788, before the Dean Forest Commissioners, also stated
that "he believed the cottages and encroachments in the Forest have
nearly doubled within the last forty years.  The persons who inhabit the
cottages are chiefly poor labouring people who are induced to seek
habitations in the Forest for the advantages of living rent free, and
having the benefit of pasturage for a cow or a few sheep, and of keeping
pigs in the woods; but many encroachments have been made by people of
substance.  The cattle of the cottagers are impounded when the Forest is
driven by the keepers, as all other cattle are; and when the owners take
them from the pound, paying the usual fees to the keepers, they turn them
again into the Forest, having no other means of maintaining them.  The
greater number of the cottagers are from the neighbouring parishes; but
there are also a great many from Wales, and from various parts of
England, remote from the Forest.  They are detrimental to the Forest by
cutting wood for fuel, and for building huts, and making fences to the
patches which they enclose from the Forest; by keeping pigs, sheep, &c.,
in the Forest all the year, and by stealing timber."

Speaking of the Forest roads, on which 11,631 pounds 3s. 10d. had been
expended within the preceding twenty-five years, Mr. Hartland stated that
"the principal were the road from Mitcheldean to Monmouth, and from
Little Dean to Coleford.  These two are public high roads, not necessary
or useful to the Forest, but rather detrimental to it by affording the
readier means to convey away the coal in waggons and carts, in which
timber has sometimes been found concealed.  Besides the above, there are
several roads leading from the Forest to Newland, Coleford, and St.
Briavel's, which have been kept in repair at the charge of the Forest,
but are of no use to it--rather the contrary.  The only road now used for
conveying the navy timber is the Purton Road, which is the most
convenient for carriage to the water side from all parts of the Forest
except the Chesnuts in Edge Hills, and the Lea Bailey; but there is no
navy timber now in either of these places except the Lea Bailey.  If the
repairing of the public roads at the charge of the Forest were to be
discontinued, the public would be obliged to put up turnpike gates on the
roads, and collect tolls for repairing them, as in other parts of the
country."

The parts of the Forest which Mr. Hartland described as being "bare of
timber and yet fittest to be enclosed as being of a very proper soil,
were Hazle Hill and Edge Hills, including Tanner's Hill, Green Bottom and
Greenhill, Badcock's Bailey and Chesnuts, East and West Haywood, part of
Great Staple Edge, Meezeyhurst, Howbeach and Putmage, Buckhall, Moor and
Bradley Hill, Bircham Dingles and Mason's Tump, Blakevellet, Breames Eves
and Howell Hill, the Perch and Coverham, Great and Little Bourts, the Lea
Bailey, Bailey Hill and Lining Wood, Great and Little Berry, Pluds and
Smithers Tump, Blackthorn Turf and Serridge, Kensley's Ridge, Daniel Moor
and Beechenhurst, 'forming in short twenty plantations,' which might, he
thinks, be enclosed by a ditch about 3 feet deep and 3.5 wide, with a
quick hedge planted upon the bank."

The detection of the various abuses which the above extracts exhibit
constitutes the first fruit of the enactment of the 26th George III.
(1786) for appointing commissioners to inquire into the state of the
woods, forests, &c., of the Crown, and to report thereon, adding such
observations as should occur to them for their future management and
improvement.

Upwards of 2,000 pounds worth of timber out of the Forest was granted,
26th of April, 1786, towards building a gaol in Gloucester, as well as a
penitentiary house and houses of correction within the county, at a total
cost of 30,000 pounds, upon the plea that the old castle, on the site of
which the gaol was to be built, belonged to the King, and also that one
of the houses of correction was to be erected within the Forest, whereby
the rights of the Crown would be supported.  The execution of this grant
required 1,690 trees.

The gentlemen appointed to act in the commission above named were, Sir
Charles Middleton, John Call, Esq., and Arthur Holdsworth, Esq., who
forthwith proceeded to collect information on the history and management
of the Forest of Dean, as well as the claims and usages of the mining
population.  Their report, being the third of the series, was published
on the 3rd of June, 1788.  Commencing with an introduction respecting the
Royal Forests generally, it proceeds to this Forest in particular, "as
being in proportion to its extent by far the most valuable and the most
proper for a nursery of naval timber," and refers first to the origin and
results of the important Act of the 20th Charles II.; then to the abuses
which have since crept in, with their disastrous effects; and, thirdly,
to the best way of settling the claims of commoners, and how to render
this Forest a very valuable nursery of timber for the royal navy.

All particulars bearing upon the two former heads have been as fully
stated in the preceding pages of this work as circumstances permitted:
under the last head, the suggestions of the commissioners amounted
briefly to this,--that, agreeably to the plan begun about the year 1638,
under the supervision of Sir Baynham Throckmorton, a commission should be
created to superintend the enclosing of about 18,000 acres.  The most
wooded parts of the Forest were to be selected, and where the soil was
best fitted for the growth of timber, avoiding the coalworks, and leaving
out all necessary roads to be made and kept in repair by turnpikes,
unless required for the carriage of timber only; the rights of commoners
were to be discharged by allotting an equitable extent of land suitable
for pasture, and the colliers to pay for all pit timber; the deer were to
be disposed of, as demoralizing the inhabitants and injuring the young
wood; and lastly, the commissioners recommended ejecting the cottagers
who had established themselves in the Forest, as often before, in
defiance of authority, and who numbered upwards of 2,000, occupying 589
cottages, besides 1,798 small enclosures containing 1,385 acres.  As to
defraying the cost of executing the above works, the commissioners
recommended the sale of about 440 acres of detached pieces of Crown land
adjoining the Forest, and if necessary dotard and decayed trees, or such
as would never become fit for naval use.

The surveyors, Messrs. A. and W. Driver, calculated the fencing,
planting, and keeping up the contemplated enclosures, for the whole of
the ensuing 100 years, at 564,330 pounds, by which time the timber would
probably be worth 10,680,473 pounds, and yield an annual net revenue of
52,052 pounds.  According to the Report of these gentlemen, the Forest
then contained about 24,000 oak-trees averaging one and a half loads
each, and 24,000 oak-trees measuring about half a load each, not
including unsound trees, of which there were many, besides a considerable
number of fine large beech as well as young growing trees.  The principal
stock of young timber, from which any expectation could be formed, was in
the Lea Bailey and Lining Woods, which were in general well stocked, and
would produce a considerable quantity of fine timber, if properly fenced
and protected from the depredations of plunderers.  As to the names,
extent, and character of the plantations then existing, they report as
follows:--

    "_The Great Enclosure_, which contained 743 acres 35 poles, was begun
    to be made about twelve years ago, with post and rail; but before the
    whole was completed, a great part was taken away, and nothing now
    remains but the bank; there are no young trees of any kind."

    "_Stonedge Enclosure_ was made about twelve years ago; it contained
    125 acres 1 rood 10 poles, and was fenced with a dry stone wall,
    which is, for the most part, destroyed; there are a great many thorns
    and hollies, with some very fine large oaks, but no young timber of
    any kind coming up."

    "_Coverham Enclosure_, which contained 350 acres 2 roods 34 poles,
    was made about fifteen years ago, part with a dry stone wall, and
    part post and rails; nothing but the bank now remains.  There was a
    great quantity of young timber, particularly birch, in this
    enclosure, which is nearly all destroyed in consequence of the fences
    being pulled down."

    "_Serridge Enclosure_ was made about twelve years ago.  It contained
    409 acres 3 roods 20 poles, and was fenced with a dry stone wall, of
    which but little remains, being quite open in many parts; there are
    no young trees of any sort, and but few old trees."

    "_Heywood Enclosure_ contained 715 acres 3 roods 38 poles, and was
    made about ten years ago, part with a dry stone wall, and part pales;
    very few traces remain, and in some parts none at all.  We have been
    informed that great part of the wall was pulled down, or fell, before
    the whole was completed, and the pales carried away by waggons, &c.,
    soon after they were put up; and from its present appearance it is
    evident no advantage has been derived from this enclosure, as there
    are no young trees in any part of it."

The three following enclosures, containing together 323 acres 1 rood 33
poles, are all that remain enclosed and in good repair, except the
Buckholt Enclosure mentioned last, viz.:--

    "_Stapleage Enclosure_, containing 183 acres 1 rood 3 poles, has been
    made about five years, part with dry stone wall, and part dead hedge;
    in general in good repair.  In some parts of it there are a few small
    oak and beech plants, and also a few large oaks and beeches."

    "_Speech House Enclosure_, containing 5 acres 6 poles, was made four
    years ago by the Deputy Surveyor, and planted with acorns which have
    produced some young oaks."

    "_Birchwood Enclosure_, containing 135 acres 24 poles, has been made
    about five years, part with dead hedge and part dry stone wall, which
    in general is in good repair; there are but few young oaks coming
    up."

    "_Buckholt Enclosure_, which contains 352 acres 3 roods 20 poles, has
    been made about eighty years, the greatest part with a stone wall,
    the rest hedge and ditch.  The fences of this enclosure have of late
    years been kept in good repair.  There are some very fine large oaks
    in it, but in general it contains a great quantity of fine young
    beech.  There are also some oak-trees of about ten or fifteen years'
    growth, and young oaks are coming up from acorns which have been set
    in vacant places.  A few Weymouth pines have also been planted in
    this enclosure, which grow very well."

The total acreage of these enclosures was 3,220 acres 6 poles, and their
position is shown pretty accurately by Mr. Taylor in his map of the
county.  Messrs. Driver's report also informs us that there were now 589
houses, 1,798 pieces of land encroached from the open Forest, comprising
1,385 acres 3 roods 21 poles, thus distributed in the six "walks:"--


                     Number of        Number of pieces     Their extent.
                     Cottages.            of land
                                                               A.       R.       P.
Speech-House Walk            1                2                0        0       21
Worcester   do.            218              455              295        2       36
Herbert   do.               95              487              325        2       22
Latimer   do.               53              257              122        3       22
Danby   do.                367             1201              744        1       21
York   do.                  98              173              195        3       15
Ellwood   do.              113              397              417        3       10

Detached parts.
Wallmore                     2                3                0        1       24
Northwood Green              3                4                0        1       33
The Bearce                   -                3                1        1       13
Mawkins Hazles               -                5               15        1       28
The Tence                    6               10               10        0        9
Glydden                      -                2                0        0       28
                           ---             ----             ----      ---      ---
                           589             1798             1385        3       21


Upwards of seventeen different Reports on the condition of "the Forest
and Land Revenues of the Crown" were made to Parliament by the Commission
of 1788, a fact which will partly explain the delay which took place in
carrying out the plans recommended in the Commissioners' Third Report
with reference to the Forest of Dean.  The chief improvements effected
were in the roads, under an Act passed in the year 1795, for mending,
widening, and altering the existing roads, and making new ones through
the Forest to places adjoining, in the parishes of Newland, Lydney, and
Awre.  Mr. John Fordyce, now the Surveyor-General, alluding to the
subject in his Report, dated 1797, says, that an arrangement had been
made with the principal inhabitants in the neighbourhood, whereby the
cost of keeping up the roads was to be met by means of turnpikes, the
Crown constructing them in the first instance.

The year 1795 is associated with the disturbances commonly called, even
now, for they are not forgotten, "the Bread Riots."  They arose from the
circumstance of the foresters being mainly dependent upon the adjacent
farms for their corn, but which was now, owing to war, largely bought up
by the Government, mostly at Gloucester and Bristol, for the supply of
the army and navy.  Hence the inhabitants of the Forest district were
left destitute of those supplies which the miners and colliers of the
Forest considered they were entitled to, in return for the fuel which
they furnished to the farmers.

The following extracts from the contemporary numbers of 'The Gloucester
Journal' minutely relate the acts of violence which ensued:--

    "On Saturday morning, 30th October, 1795, as Mr. King's waggon, of
    Bollitree, was bringing a load of barley to the Gloucester Market, it
    was beset by a number of colliers from the Forest of Dean near the
    Lea Line, who inquired what the bags contained, and when told that it
    was barley, they cut the bags to examine; whilst this was passing, a
    waggon, loaded with wheat, came up the hill belonging to Mr. Dobson,
    of Harthill, in the parish of Weston, which was taken to in the same
    manner, and both waggons with the grain were taken off to a place in
    the Forest of Dean, called Drybrook, where the people divided the
    corn, and sent back the waggons and horses to the owners."  The next
    Saturday "a party of foresters, chiefly from the neighbourhood of
    Lidbrook, stopped a waggon belonging to Mr. Prince, of Longhope,
    loaded with ninety-two bushels of wheat, and lodged it in Ross
    Market-house, professedly with the intention of selling it out on
    Monday morning at eight shillings per bushel.  A magistrate, however,
    reached Ross early on Monday, and, accompanied by ten of the Essex
    Light Dragoons, saw the grain reloaded into Mr. Prince's waggon, and
    sent it off under their escort.  In about an hour upwards of sixty
    foresters collected together, and set off in pursuit of the waggon.
    The magistrate followed on horseback, and at the Lea he came up with
    the waggon, which he sent on, and ordered the cavalry to stop till
    the approach of the mob.  They soon made their appearance, and being
    at first somewhat refractory, the ringleader was taken into custody;
    when, after the most persuasive remonstrances of this very active
    magistrate, and the patient forbearance of the soldiery, they were at
    last prevailed upon to give up the desperate idea of rescuing the
    grain, and returned peaceably to Ross."

A reputed highwayman, and noted deerstealer, named William Stallard,
living on the Upper Purlieu, above the Hawthorns, is stated to have been
the instigator of these outrages, and others of a similar kind on Mr.
Prince's flour-mill at Longhope.  His lawless career, however, brought
him to the gallows at Gloucester for horse-stealing, at the age of forty,
on the 16th August, 1800, as appears by the records of that gaol.  The
decline of the market in Mitcheldean is said to date from the above
disturbances, which naturally deterred the neighbouring farmers from
sending their grain thither for sale. {85}

Nor were the bread riots confined to the northern side of the Forest, as
upon "the evening of the same day, November 9th, many persons assembled
at Hanstell, in the parish of Awre, in this county, where a vessel
belonging to Eversham, and bound to Bristol with a cargo of pease, oil,
flour, leather, and wheat, was waiting for the tide.  About twenty men
boarded her, examined the lading, and, upon discovering the flour, gave
loud huzzas, when the bank was instantly covered with their comrades, who
had many horses in waiting, with which they proceeded to carry off the
flour, though the trowmen (unable to defend the vessel, and menaced with
instant destruction) had offered to sell it to them at a reasonable
price.  About 7 o'clock one of the trowmen contrived to slip ashore, ran
to Newnham, and sent off an express to Gloucester for immediate military
aid; but fortunately that assistance was nearer at hand.  In consequence
of some apprehension of a disturbance at Mitcheldean, an officer, with a
serjeant and ten file of the Essex Fencibles Cavalry, had marched into
the place early in the morning, and upon the arrival of the express from
Newnham instantly set forth for the scene of depredation, under the
command of Lieutenant Wood, and headed by Mr. Pyrke, a magistrate of
Little Dean.  The freebooters fled in every direction, but five men,
named Thomas Yemm, Thomas Rosser, Richard Brain, George Marfell, and John
Meek, being the most active ringleaders, were apprehended, some in the
act of conveying away the flour upon packhorses, some had sacks of it
upon their shoulders, some were just landed from the vessel; and many
were busied on the bank, which was strewed with flour, dividing the sacks
into smaller quantities to render it more portable, for even women and
children were of the number."  The five men already named were fully
committed on the following Tuesday to Gloucester Castle, there to be
tried at the Spring Assizes, being guarded thither by one hundred of the
Surrey Fencibles, who had arrived in Newnham at 3 o'clock previously.
Shortly afterwards, the serjeant of the military, called out on this
occasion, was desperately bruised by a stone thrown at him by some
desperadoes as he was riding near Mitcheldean, and, on a subsequent
Thursday, some villains fired a piece loaded with slugs into the
bed-chamber of Mr. Pyrke.  At the ensuing Assizes, Thomas Yemm and Thomas
Rosser were left for execution, which, although, from the excellent
character they previously bore, some gentlemen of the Forest, and of the
Grand Jury, interceded with his Majesty on their behalf, they underwent
on the 11th April, 1797, acknowledging the justice of their sentence.
The extraordinary scarcity, and consequent high price of provisions about
this time, were so acutely felt in this neighbourhood, that the Crown
distributed 1,000 pounds worth of grain amongst the distressed Foresters.




CHAPTER VI.
A.D. 1800-1831.


Lord Nelson's remarks on the Forest--Free miners endeavour to restore
their Court of Mine Law--White Mead Park planted--Act of 1808,
authorising the replanting of the Forest; six commissioners appointed for
that purpose--Six enclosures formed in 1810--Mice--Inquiry as to the best
mode of felling timber--Last of the enclosures formed 1816--First Forest
church consecrated--High Meadow Woods purchased--General condition of the
Forest--Unsuccessful efforts to restore the encroachments to the
Crown--Plantations mended over--Ellwood and the Great Doward Estates
purchased--The blight--Single trees planted out by the roads--Blight on
the oaks.

There is a statement of Lord Nelson's relating to this Forest, written
about the year 1802, {87} in which he says: "Nothing in it can grow
self-sown, for the deer bark all the young trees.  Vast droves of hogs
are allowed to go into the woods in the autumn, and if any fortunate
acorn escapes their search, and takes root, then flocks of sheep are
allowed to go into the Forest, and they bite off the tender shoot."  He
speaks of "a set of people called Forest free miners, who consider
themselves as having a right to dig for coal in any part they please,"
adding that "trees which die of themselves are considered as of no value
to the Crown.  A gentleman told me," (he says,) "that in shooting on foot
(for on horseback it cannot be seen, being hid by the fern, which grows a
great height), the trees of fifty years' growth, fit for buildings,
fencings, &c., are cut just above ground entirely through the bark, and
in two years die," so becoming a perquisite to the authorities.  Lord
Nelson calculated that the Forest would sell for 460,000 pounds.  He
forcibly concludes: "The reason why timber has of late years been so much
reduced has been uniformly told me--that, from the pressure of the times,
gentlemen who had 1000 to 5000 pounds worth of timber on their estates,
although only half grown (say fifty years of age), were obliged to sell
it to raise temporary sums--say to pay off legacies.  The owner cannot,
however sorry he may feel to see the beauty of his place destroyed, and
what would be treble the value to his children annihilated, help himself.
It has struck me forcibly that if Government could form a plan to
purchase of such gentlemen the growing oak, it would be a national
benefit, and a great and pleasing accommodation to such growers of oak as
wish to sell."

Mr. Fordyce's second report, as Surveyor-General of the Land Revenues of
the Crown, appeared on the 14th of December, 1802; but neither this nor
his third, dated the 4th of March, 1806, says anything about the Forest
of Dean.  In 1807 the free miners of the district held a meeting, at
which a resolution was passed, earnestly requesting the wardens of the
Forest to hold a Court of Mine Law, as soon as possible, with the view of
regulating the levels, pits, and engines.

Mr. Fordyce's fourth and final report appeared on the 6th of April, 1809,
but it only speaks of the Forest so far as related to the lands called
"Whitemead Park," hitherto in the occupation of Lord Berkeley, but whose
lease would expire in January, 1808, and was sought to be renewed.  The
Surveyor-General declined complying with the request for renewal, upon
the ground that the Park was unfavourably situated for farming purposes,
and that the buildings on it were in very bad repair; whereas a large
quantity of very fine timber, valued at 11,736 pounds, had grown up on
the land, proving the excellence of the soil for that purpose; besides
which, it was situated in the midst of the Forest, and Mr. Fordyce
determined to plant the whole of it with oak at the earliest opportunity.
This circumstance appears to have stimulated the Government to commence
in good earnest the forming of plantations, in accordance with the
suggestions made in the Commissioners' Report of 1788, {89} which had
been kept in view ever since, and as authorized by the old Acts of the
20th of Charles II. c. 3, and 9 and 10 William III. c. 36.

The propriety, however, of acting upon these old enactments was now
doubted, as they had been so long overlooked or irregularly executed; and
hence the declaratory Act of the 48th of George III., c. 72, was passed
in 1808, confirming the original power to enclose 11,000 acres, as well
as legalizing the enclosures of Buckholt, Stapledge, Birchwood, and Acorn
Patch, formed a few years previously, containing altogether 676 acres,
and making it felony to persist in breaking down any of the fences
belonging to the same.  The above-named enclosures were the only ones
then existing.  The Buckholt principally contained beech; Stapledge was
thinly stocked with oak, except on the north side, and there called
Little Stapledge, on which there was plenty; and Birchwood had some
clusters of natural young oaks scattered about it.  The Acorn Patch was
well filled with thriving young oaks about 25 years old.  The same Act
likewise directed that the contemplated plantations should be marked out
under the supervision of not less than six Commissioners, who were named
as follows:--


Lord Glenbervie, Surveyor General
of Woods, &c.
R. Fanshaw, Esq., of Plymouth
Dockyard.

Right Hon. C. Bathurst, Lydney      }
Park,
The Rev. Thomas Birt, Newland,      } Magistrates
The Rev. Richard Wetherell,         }
Westbury,

Sir William Guise, Highnam,         }
Joseph Pyrke, Esq., Little Dean,    } Verderers
Edmund Probyn, Esq., Newland,       }
Roynon Jones, Esq., Hay Hill,       }

Edward Kent, Esq., Itinerant
Deputy Surveyor.
Edward Machen, Esq., Deputy
Surveyor.


The connexion with the Forest of two of these gentlemen, viz. Lord
Glenbervie as Surveyor-General, and Mr. Machen as Deputy-Surveyor, dates
from this period; and to their joint exertions, aided by the official
labours of Mr. Milne, his Lordship's excellent secretary, and at length
one of the three Commissioners of Woods, &c., the existing enclosures owe
their formation as well as their present promising condition; but
especially to Mr. Machen is the credit due, as being the result of his
able and conscientious management of the Forest for well nigh half a
century.

With a prospective reference to the plantations shortly to be made, the
most laudable pains were taken by Lord Glenbervie to ascertain the best
mode of planting and raising the young trees.  He truly remarks that "the
space of nearly 100 years must elapse before the success or failure of
any plan adopted in the cultivation and management of oak timber for the
navy can be clearly ascertained, during the whole of which time a
persevering attention and uniformity of system in the execution of the
plan adopted would be equally requisite, in fact through a succession
perhaps of three or four generations."  His Lordship made extensive
inquiries whether acorns or plants should be first used, or rather some
of each; what was the best age and size for transplanting; if plants or
trees of any other kind should be set with them, or in places where oaks
would not thrive; at what distance apart should they be planted; ought
the soil to be cleared or dug, or how prepared; are the old trees to be
removed, and the stumps of oak or beech suffered to remain?

On the 23rd of July, 1808, the general principle agreed upon in these
respects was, "to plant an intermixture of acorns and oak-trees, with a
very small proportion of Spanish chesnuts; so that, if either the acorns
or young oaks should succeed, a sufficient crop might be expected, and to
plant no trees of any other sorts, except in spots where it should be
thought that oaks would not grow, and which it might be necessary to
include, in order to avoid the expense of fencing, or for shelter in high
and exposed situations."  The first enclosures were planted agreeably to
this method, only afterwards it was found necessary to set young oaks
instead of acorns, few of these only coming up.

Lord Glenbervie also interested himself in some experiments for testing
the transplanting of young trees of various ages, selecting Acorn Patch
in the centre of the Forest for the purpose.  The annexed table, carried
on to 1846, gives the result:--

A. transplanted at 16 years of age }
B. transplanted at 23 years of age }  girth at 6 ft. from the ground.
C. not transplanted at all         }


                  A.                B.                C.
Sep. 14, 1809      7.625 Inches.     7  Inches.       11.75 Inches.
Oct.  5, 1814     14.75  ,,         11  ,,            15.625  ,,
Oct. 20, 1820     23.825  ,,        19  ,,            19.825  ,,
  ,,     1826     32.125  ,,        27.75  ,,         23  ,,
  ,,     1830     40.5  ,,          35.75  ,,         26.5  ,,
  ,,     1836     48.75  ,,         39.5  ,,          30  ,,
  ,,     1840     53.25  ,,         42.5  ,,          32.5  ,,
  ,,     1846     60.5  ,,          47.75  ,,         36.5  ,,


More as a satisfaction to the Government before making the new
plantations, than as a guide to the commissioners, most of whom knew the
Forest intimately, Messrs. Driver were now directed to examine the
condition and situation of the woods and woodlands, and to report
thereon.  They began by numbering the timber trees in succession, and had
reached 1,000, when the proceedings were put a stop to, on account of the
consumption of time and money which such an elaborate plan was found to
involve, and they briefly reported that the Forest seemed to contain
22,882 loads of oak timber, that only one third of the existing
enclosures were fully stocked, and that encroachments were rapidly
spreading.

On the 15th of September in the ensuing year, 1809, the first meeting of
the above-named commissioners was held at Newnham, when 2,000 acres in
various parts of the Forest were selected for planting, and such
directions given that the 240 acres of White Mead Park were actually
planted this season, just in time to afford Mr. Fordyce the satisfaction
of living to know that the good work of renewing the Forest with oak, in
accordance with his recommendation made twenty years before, was in fact
begun, for at this date his useful life was brought to a close.

Referring to the list of licences granted by the Crown this year, 1809,
it appears that the first effort was now made to prepare the slag and
cinders from the iron furnaces for the use of the Bristol bottle-glass
manufacture, by reducing them to powder in a stamping mill, one of which
was erected at Park End by Messrs. Kear, under a licence dated 23rd of
September.  To this year also is to be referred the introduction of
tramways by two companies, designated "The Severn and Wye Railway
Company," and "The Bullo Pill Company."  The road belonging to the former
of them traverses the western valley of the Forest from Lydney to
Lydbrook, a distance of fourteen miles, and the latter the eastern, but
both communicating with the Severn, although at points six miles apart.
The licence for the line ascending from Bullo Pill describes it as
designed to extend up to the Churchway engine, seven miles off.  It was
constructed under a private Act obtained by Sir James Jelf and his
partners.

In the course of the next year, _i.e._ 1810, the Enclosure Commissioners
authorized the construction of the following five plantations:--


                        A.            R.            P.
Barn Hill,             353             2             3  near Coleford.
containing
Serridge               387             3            24    ,,  Lydbrook.
,,
Beechen                308             2            36    ,,  Serridge.
Hurst  ,,
Haywood  ,,            407             1            34    ,,  Abbenhall.
Holly Hill              41             0            38    ,,  Cinderford.
,,
                      ----            --            --
                      1498             3            15


The planting of them was intrusted to Mr. Driver, upon his own plan,
which was to dig holes four feet apart every way, or 2,722 in an acre,
and to plant an acorn in every hole but the tenth, in it substituting an
oak-tree of five years old.  The holes for the acorns were dug fifteen
inches square and nine inches deep; but those for the young trees were
made eighteen inches square and twelve inches deep.  The acorns cost 8s.
per 1,000, and the trees 70s. per 1,000.  One tree out of every 100 was a
five years old Spanish chesnut.  So that planting the enclosures in this
way cost about 3 pounds 15s. per acre, and the seedlings about 4 pounds
5s., which Mr. Driver was to mend over, and to keep the plants good for
three years.  The fences were to consist of a bank five feet high, with a
row of French furze at the top and bottom, or where impracticable a dry
wall instead.  The most flourishing timber in the Forest at this period
appears to have been that growing on Church Hill, averaging 73 trees to
the acre, each tree containing 58 feet of timber.  The Severn and Wye
Tramway, commenced last year, was extended in this, with the addition of
a line from Monmouth up to Howler's Slade.

In 1811 only one plantation, viz. "Crab-tree Hill," comprising 372 acres
2 roods 34 poles, was formed, and planted similarly to the last; but the
Enclosure Commissioners set out a considerable extent of land to be taken
in and planted.  On the 28th of November steam engines were licensed to
be erected at Birches Well, Ivy Moorhead, "the Independent," Upper
Bilson, two at "the Old Engine," and two at "No Fold."  In the next year
also two steam engines were licensed to be put up at Churchway Colliery,
and a third at "Strip-and-at-it" Colliery.  The following enclosures were
made in 1812, viz.--


                        A.            R.            P.
Shute                  158             3            35  near Bream.
Castle
Bromley                258             3            13    ,,  Park End.
Chesnuts               163             2            13    ,,  Flaxley.
Sallow                 397             2            33    ,,  Lydbrook.
Vallets
Ruerdean               313             3            19    ,,  Ruerdean.
Hill
Additional              14             3            29    ,,  Coleford.
to Buckholt
                      ----            --            --
                      1307             3            22


These enclosures were not planted, however, like the former ones; since,
from the exuberance of weeds, and the ravages of mice, &c., that method
had failed, three-fourths of the acorns never appearing, and many of
those that did come up were too weak to make their way through the other
more luxuriant growth that overwhelmed and choked them.  But these
enclosures, according to a second agreement made with Mr. Driver, as
likewise all the future ones, were planted with seedling oaks instead of
acorns, care being taken to clear the holes once or twice, and only the
tenth trees were introduced as before.  The Buckholt was planted with
three years old oaks, from the woodmen's nurseries.

The first general report of the Commissioners of Woods, &c., appointed
under the Acts of 34th George III., c. 75, and 50th George III., c. 65,
was made on the 4th of June, 1812, and was signed "Glenbervie, W. D.
Adams, Henry Dawkins."

It says little respecting this Forest, merely alluding to it in common
with the other royal forests, as fitted to take its place in supplying
timber to the navy, which required 88,659 loads annually, a quantity so
large as to be equivalent to 1,000 acres of oak a century old.  In their
present state the Royal Forests could not supply a tenth part of this
amount, and would always be deficient unless 1,000 acres were planted
every year for the next 100 years, by which time the above quantity might
be annually felled.  Ere this year ended, the Enclosure Commissioners
concluded their labours of setting out the rest of the 11,000 acres in
Dean Forest.

The plantations made the ensuing year of 1813 were--


                        A.            R.            P.
Oaken Hill             477             2            11  near Park End.
Park Hill              141             0            26    ,,  Park End.
Blakeney               816             1             0    ,,  Blakeney.
Hill
                      ----            --            --
                      1434             3            37


Permission was also given to the Severn and Wye Tramroad Company to
construct a branch to the colliery at the Ivy Moore Head, as well as to
Messrs. Protheroe to erect a steam engine at "Catch Can."  The area of
the encroachments in the Forest in 1813, and which had at that time been
taken in more than twenty years, amounted to 1,610 acres 2 roods 18
poles, divided into 2,239 patches, on which were 785 houses, occupied by
1,111 persons.

In 1814 the three following extensive enclosures were made:--


                        A.            R.            P.
Stapledge              943             2            17  near Cinderford.
Nag's Head             809             2             4    ,,  Coleford.
Hill
Russell's              990             0            16    ,,  Park End.


The last of them, being the largest in the Forest, was not regularly
planted, but left for the most part to natural growth.

It was during this year especially, but to a certain degree also in the
preceding and succeeding ones, that this Forest and the New Forest were
visited with an enormous number of mice.  They appeared in all parts, but
particularly in Haywood enclosure, destroying a very large proportion of
the young trees, so much so that only four or five plants to an acre were
found uninjured by them.  The roots of five years old oaks and chesnuts
were generally eaten through just below the surface of the ground, or
wherever their runs proceeded.  Sometimes they were found to have barked
the young hollies round the bottom, or were seen feeding on the bark of
the upper branches.  These mice were of two kinds, the common long-tailed
field mouse, and the short-tailed.  There were about fifty of these
latter sort to one of the former.  The long-tailed mice had all white
breasts, and the tail was about the same length as the body. {95}  These
were chiefly caught on the wet greens in the Forest, and the short-tailed
were caught both on the wet and dry grounds.

A variety of means were resorted to for their destruction, such as cats,
poisons, and traps, but with little success.  A Mr. Broad, who had been
employed by the Admiralty, and had been successful, in killing the rats
and mice in the fleet, was sent down, and tried several plans, all of
which failed.  At last, a miner living on Edge Hills, named Simmons, came
forward, and said that he had often, when sinking wells or pits, found
mice fallen in, and dead, in consequence of their endeavours to extricate
themselves, and he had little doubt that the same plan would succeed in
the Forest.  It was tried, and holes were dug over the enclosures about
two feet deep, and the same size across, and rather hollowed out at the
bottom, and at the distance of about twenty yards apart, into which the
mice fell, and were unable to get out again.  Simmons and others were
employed, and paid by the numbers of tails which they brought in, which
amounted in the whole to more than 100,000.  In addition to this it may
be mentioned that polecats, kites, hawks, and owls visited the holes
regularly, and preyed upon the mice caught in them; and a small owl,
called by Pennant, Strix passerina, never known in the Forest before or
since, appeared at that time, and was particularly active in their
destruction.  The mice in the holes also ate each other.

Four more steam engines were allowed to be erected about the close of
this year at Palmer's Flat and at Hopewell.

Proceeding to the following year, we find that in 1815 the number of
plantations was increased by the addition of--


                        A.            R.            P.
Leonard's               66             0            32  near Cinderford.
Hill,
containing
Edge Hills             494             1            36    ,,  Little
                                                        Dean.
Cock Shot              598             0            22    ,,  Blakeney.
Yew-tree               183             0             0    ,,  Cinderford.
Brake
                      ----            --            --
                      1341             3            10


Two years before this time the Admiralty had called the attention of the
Commissioners of Woods, &c., to the most proper means of improving the
durability of oak timber, which had always been supposed to be best
secured by its being felled in winter, although, owing to its involving
the loss of the bark, the practice had not become general.  To avoid such
loss it was determined, on the 15th of March this year, that the bark
should be stripped in the spring from the trees standing, leaving them to
be felled in the ensuing or some subsequent spring, five shillings per
load being allowed for the additional trouble occasioned thereby.  But
this determination was not formed without careful investigation and
experiment.  Thus in the previous year (1814) thirty trees were marked
and set apart in each of the Royal Forests, "which were divided into five
classes: three of the classes were stripped standing, but with some
variety in method, and left to be felled in winter; the second class was
felled, but left with the bark on; and the third felled, and then
immediately afterwards stripped in the usual way."  But the results of
these different methods are not stated.

Licences to erect machinery were granted in the preceding year to Messrs.
Kear for a waterwheel at Park End in connexion with a mill for pounding
slag from the iron furnaces, and to Mr. Mushet for a steam engine at
Deepfield, and to Mr. John Protheroe for an engine at Whitelay Colliery;
and in the present year two steam engines were licensed at Upper Bilson
by Mr. Thomas Bennett, and one at Smith's Folly by Mr. Glover.

In the course of the succeeding year (1816) the last of the enclosures,
as set out by the commissioners appointed under the Act of 1808, were
completed, viz.--


                        A.            R.            P.
Perch,                 386             1            15  near Coleford.
containing
Aston                  475             0             4    ,,  Lydbrook.
Bridge
Kinsley                376             1            27    ,,  the Speech
Ridge                                                   House.
                      ----            --            --
       Total          1237             3             6


The second report of the Commissioners of Woods, dated the 18th of May,
and signed by Wm. Huskisson, Wm. Dacres Adams, Henry Dawkins, states
"that 9,389 acres of this Forest had been enclosed and planted, the
remaining 1,611 acres, making up the 11,000, being partly fenced, and
would be shut in the next year, viz. 1816, making the total number of
enclosures upwards of thirty.  Besides which 240 acres of Whitemead Park
had been appropriated (1809) to the growth of timber, as also 120 acres
adjoining the different lodges, as well as 120 acres of the open Forest,
where trees twenty-five or thirty feet high had been planted, and were
doing very well.  The cost of these operations, since 1808, was 59,172
pounds 5s. 10d."

To this period belongs the interesting circumstance of the then Bishop of
Gloucester, the excellent Dr. Ryder, paying his first official visit to
the Forest, for the purpose of consecrating Christ Church at Berry Hill.
The building was commenced, in 1812, as a chapel schoolroom, by the Rev.
P. M. Procter, the Vicar of Newland, assisted by the Duke of Beaufort,
the Lord Bishop, and Mr. Ryder his secretary, aided by 100 pounds from
the National Society, being the first grant made by it.  But the
structure was enlarged to twice the original size previous to its
consecration.

The next year (1817) the Bishop had the satisfaction of being called upon
in the month of April to repeat his visit to the Forest, for the purpose
of dedicating the Church of the Holy Trinity, on Quarry Hill, to divine
worship, for which it was first used on the previous 5th of February,
having been commenced the summer before.  Its erection was principally
accomplished by the exertions of the Rev. H. Berkin, assisted by
contributions from the Earl of Liverpool, the Right Hon. N. Vansittart,
the Duke of Beaufort, Lord Kenyon, Lord Calthorpe, W. Wilberforce, Esq.,
M.P., and other benevolent persons.  The site, comprising five acres, was
given by the Crown.

On the 15th of May this year the purchase of Lord Viscount Gage's estate,
adjoining the Forest and the Wye, was concluded, as stated in the
Commissioners' Report, which appeared on the 18th of June.  It contained
2,229 acres of wood, which, "if preserved, would (they said) very soon be
stocked with a succession of trees of the first quality, as they were of
the most thriving description, the oldest being from sixty to eighty
years old."  The whole property contained 4,257 acres 15 poles, and,
including all the timber and underwood, with certain forges, mills,
limekilns, iron and tin works, was valued by the referees at 155,863
pounds 3s. 2d., the timber being prised at 61,624 pounds 4s.  This
agreement was confirmed by Act of Parliament, 57 George III., c. 97,
which authorized the raising of the money by sales of Crown property to
the amount of 101,945 pounds 6s. 3d., with the view of enabling the
purchase money to be paid by five equal yearly instalments.  A corn-mill,
two forge-houses with appendages, the tolls of the Coleford Market-house,
and about 423 acres of arable or meadow land, were sold for the most part
at higher prices than were given for them, leaving 2,925 acres for the
growth of timber.

               [Picture: Norman Capital in Staunton Church]

On tracing the history of this property as far back as existing records
permit, it appears that "the High Meadow Estate," although naturally
included in the district constituting the Crown property of the Forest,
had been at remote period detached from it as appears by the
perambulations of 28 Edward I., with which the bounds of the shires of
Gloucester and Monmouth here coincide.  Its ancient village church,
partly of Norman architecture, and its still more antique font,
apparently Saxon, sufficiently attest the early location of inhabitants
on the spot.  This estate constituted one of the ten bailiwicks of the
Forest as early as 10 Edward I. (1282), when it was held by John Walden,
called John de Staunton, by the service, as the Rev. T. Fosbroke has
ascertained, "of carrying the King's bow before him when he came to hunt
in the bailiwick, and by homageward and marchat," and "he had for his
custody housbote, heybote, of every kind of tree given or delivered by
the King; all broken oaks, and all trees of every sort thrown down by the
wind."  After passing through the families of the Baynhams, Brains,
Winters, and Halls, who purchased the manor of English Bicknor early in
the 17th century, it became by marriage the property of Sir Thomas Gage,
created Viscount Gage of Castle Island, in the county of Kerry, and Baron
Gage of Castlebar, in the county of Mayo, September 14th, 1720.  It must
also be noticed, that licences were issued this year for the erection of
steam-engines at "No Coal" and at "Churchway Coal" Mines.

                [Picture: Ancient Font in Staunton Church]

The following minute and interesting account of the state of the several
plantations in the year 1818 is by permission abstracted from Mr.
Machen's private papers.

Speaking of the Buckholt (one of the older enclosures), he observes--

    "The large timber in it has been cut, and parts of it planted with
    young oaks, obtained from places where they had sprung up
    spontaneously, but it is still imperfectly stocked.  Stapledge
    (another of the earlier plantations) has been filled up by
    transplanting from the thick parts, and is tolerably well stocked on
    the whole.  Birchwood (the third of the previous enclosures) has been
    planted in the vacant parts, and is fully stocked and very
    flourishing.  From the Acorn Patch (the last of the old plantations)
    a large quantity of young oaks have been transplanted into the open
    parts of the Forest and the upper part of Russell's Enclosure.  The
    trees drawn out are thriving, and many of them grow faster than the
    trees remaining in the Acorn Patch.  There is a great quantity of
    holly and other underwood scattered on the parts where the trees are
    planted, and which serves for shelter and protection, and the soil is
    very good.  The trees, though never transplanted before, came up with
    bunches of fibrous roots; and though of so large a size, being from
    10 to 25 ft. high, scarcely any of them failed.  Several experiments
    were tried as to pruning closely, pruning a little, and not at all;
    and it appears that those pruned sufficiently to prevent the wind
    from loosening the roots answer best, although many of those which
    were reduced to bare poles, and had their heads cut off, are now
    sending up vigorous leading shoots, and have every appearance of
    becoming fine timber: those unpruned did not succeed at all."
    Alluding to the earthen banks, with which the plantations were mostly
    surrounded, Mr. Machen observes that "In most parts they appear to
    succeed very well, and the furze on the top of them grows very
    luxuriantly; but in some places, and those where the bank of mould
    has accumulated by being washed there in floods, the banks are
    mouldering, and in the last two years hawthorn-quick has been planted
    in those parts, and now looks very flourishing.  There has not been a
    good year of acorns, that is, where a quantity have ripened in the
    Forest, since the commencement of the plantations until the present,
    and the trees are now loaded, and with every prospect of ripening.
    The young trees in all the new enclosures are looking remarkably well
    this year, and some of them have made shoots so long that they more
    resemble willows than oaks.  The six first-named enclosures, in
    addition to the acorns and five years old oaks, have had the same
    quantity of five years old oaks planted in addition, in lieu of the
    mending over, viz. 270 on an acre; but there are parts of all these,
    and almost the whole of Crab-tree Hill and Haywood, which suffered
    not only from the failure of the acorns, but from the ravages made by
    the mice, that will require to be filled up as soon as there is a
    stock of plants sufficient for the purpose.  Russell's Enclosure is
    left to nature: only 10,000 Spanish chesnuts have been planted in it,
    and some young oaks from the Acorn Patch at the north end.  There is
    a good deal of large timber over the whole, particularly the south
    and centre parts, and a vast quantity of natural young oaks sprung up
    in the neighbourhood of the large trees.  The fern has been cut to
    relieve and encourage them for the last three years.  The Lea Bailey
    Copse (north) consists of young copsewood well stored with oaks,
    growing on their own butts.  The Lea Bailey Copse (south) has more
    large timber in it: this has not been regularly planted, but some
    trees have been transplanted from the thick parts of the north copse,
    and from the woodmen's nurseries.  The lower Lea Bailey Enclosure has
    a considerable quantity of growing timber in it, and a large quantity
    of young oaks springing up.  No planting has been done here.  The
    fencing round these consists of a large ditch and bank, and a dead
    hedge at top, with hawthorn-quick planted within.  The hedge having
    stood three years is decayed, and another will be required this year,
    which it is expected will last until the quick becomes a fence.  The
    addition to the Buckholt of about fifteen acres was planted with 3
    years old oaks from the woodmen's nurseries, and looks very thriving.
    All the other enclosures were planted with seedlings and tenth trees,
    according to the second agreement with Mr. Driver, in 1812, 13, 14,
    and 15, and are this year looking very well.  Parts of all the
    enclosures will require mending over, but I should think more than
    half are sufficiently stocked with oaks well established, and that
    will require no further attention until they want thinning.  On the
    high land of Haywood, Edge Hills, and Ruerdean Hill, firs and a
    mixture of other trees have been planted, and are thriving and
    growing fast, particularly on Ruerdean Hill, where the Scotch and
    larch take the lead.  Firs, &c., have also been planted in the wet
    and bad parts of most of the other enclosures, and succeed.  The
    nurseries we have in cultivation are the Bourts, 161 acres; Yew-tree
    Brake, about 5 acres; Ell Wood, 11 acres; and about 26 in the
    Vallets, or middle, and Sallow Vallets Nurseries, previously occupied
    by Mr. Driver.  In these there are now about four millions of young
    oaks, three, two, and one year old, and about 600,000 firs and other
    trees of different sorts.  The plants in Whitemead Park are thriving
    very well in all parts which are situated at a distance from the
    brook, but near to it they are very thin, stunted, and unhealthy, and
    are constantly killed down by spring frosts.  Ash and fir trees have
    been planted amongst them, but with little success at present.  The
    principal part of the large timber now in the Forest is about Park
    End, on Church Hill, Ivy More Head, Russell's Enclosure, Park End
    Lodge Hill, and at the Lea Bailey.  That at the Bailey appears
    younger, and some of it shook by frost, and rather drawn up by
    standing too thick.  The timber about Park End is very fine, and I
    should suppose from 150 to 200 years old.  There is a considerable
    quantity of young oak, from 15 to 40 years old, about Tanner's Hill,
    &c., near Gun's Mills, on the outside of Edge Hill Enclosure, and
    some within it in the lower part.  Chesnuts Enclosure is covered with
    hazel, that was cut down when the oak was planted, and is now growing
    up with the young oaks and chesnuts, both of which are more rapidly
    growing in this enclosure than in any other; a double quantity of
    chesnuts are planted in this enclosure.  There are scarcely any
    natural trees in the Forest but oak and beech; birch springs up
    spontaneously in every enclosure, and overruns the whole Forest.  The
    few ash trees look scrubbed and unthrifty.  Since the year 1809,
    14,260 oak trees containing 14,546 loads of timber have been felled,
    viz. 11,322 trees for the navy, and 2,938 sold by auction.  About 50
    trees, containing about 50 loads, have been blown down or stolen."

This year, 1818, Mr. Trotter obtained the permission of the Crown to
erect steam engines at Vallets Level and Howler's Slade, and in the
following year the first corn mill was constructed at Cinderford, by Mr.
Brace, out of an old water-wheel, and the adjoining buildings.  In the
year 1819 also, through the exertions of the Rev. H. Poole, the small
chapel at Coleford, erected there in the reign of Queen Anne, was taken
down, and a building more equal to the religious wants of the place was
erected, and duly set apart for Christian worship, by Bishop Ryder, on
the 18th of January, 1821.

The Third Triennial Report of the Commissioners of Woods was issued on
the 18th of June, 1819.  It states that three portions of land had been
granted in trust for church purposes to the Lord Bishop of Gloucester,
Lord Calthorpe, and the Right Honourable Nicolas Vansittart, one piece
being attached to Christ Church, Berry Hill, a second to Holy Trinity
Church, and the third for a proposed church at Cinderford.  It also
affirms that the whole of the 11,000 acres specified in the Acts for
enclosing the Forest had been taken in and planted, and that the
plantations were generally in a very flourishing state, comprising with
the recent purchases 14,335 acres, the whole of which lands were, from
the nature of the soil and the conveniences of water-carriage, probably
better adapted for that purpose than any other tract of land in the
kingdom lying together and of equal extent.  The report concludes by
alluding to the efforts which the commissioners had been making to induce
such parties as occupied encroachments on the Forest to accept leases for
thirty-one years, at an almost nominal rent, with the view of effecting
the ultimate restoration of these lands to the Crown, but regrets that so
liberal a proposal had been refused by nearly all; nevertheless further
steps were about being taken in the matter.

The following particulars relating to this period are abstracted from Mr.
Machen's Memoranda:--"29th May, 1819.  The frost was so severe that the
verdure around White Mead, and throughout all the low parts of the
Forest, was entirely destroyed.  There was not a green leaf left on any
oak or beech, large or small, and all the shoots of the year were
altogether withered.  The spruce and silver firs were all injured: in
short all trees but Scotch fir and poplar suffered severely.--August
10th.  The plantations had recovered from the effects of the frost--the
oak more effectually than the beech, and had made more vigorous and
thriving shoots than I ever saw.  We measured several shoots in Serridge
and Birchwood more than five feet long, and one in the Bailey Copse seven
feet.  We measured an oak planted in Whitemead Park near to the W. hedge,
and in the second field planted below the house, seventeen feet six
inches high: Lord Glenbervie was present.  Shutcastle in the upper part,
and the eastern part of Serridge, were looking best of all the new
plantations, though all appear in a very thriving state this year."  From
the same source we learn that Ellwood, purchased from Colonel Probyn, and
containing 110 acres, was planted this year.  The holes were dug four
feet apart in rows, and five feet between the rows.  The trees planted
were 30,000 Scotch firs, 1,600 pineasters, 3,600 larch, 6,000 Spanish
chesnuts, 120,000 oaks of three and four years old, and 4,500 seedling
oaks planted by way of experiment in one corner of the large field on the
south side of Ellwood, and with no large plants amongst them.  A few of
the enclosures had oaks planted in them also, viz.-


Ruerdean Hill                       35,000
Beechen Hurst                       52,000
Bromley                             35,000
Sallow Vallets                      12,000
Park Hill                           30,000


and some more, from each of the woodmen's nurseries in their respective
enclosures.

In the spring of 1820, 15,000 Scotch firs were planted in Ellwood, in the
place of those that died.  During the autumn and the following spring,
about two million trees, which had been raised in the different Forest
nurseries, were also planted out to mend over the different enclosures,
viz.--


                                Oaks.                     Firs.
In Whitemead Park              51,000                      50,000
Shutcastle Enclosure           25,500
Ellwood                         8,000                      16,000
Bromeley                       80,000                       3,500
Nagshead                      460,000                       5,000
Aston Bridge                   81,000
Ruerdean Hill                 120,000                      63,000
Haywood                       240,000
Edge Hills                     10,000                      70,000
Crab-tree Hill                115,000
Russells                                                   25,000
Kensley Ridge                 210,000                      80,000
Yew-tree Brake                125,000                      35,000
Blakeney Hill                 100,000                      13,000
                            ---------                   ---------
                            1,625,500                     360,500


Under the usual official permission, the Howler Slade Colliery was
connected, by a tramway 350 yards in length, with the Severn and Wye
Railways at Cannop, and Mr. J. Scott was permitted to lay down 102 yards
of tramway to his coal-works at the Moorwood, and Mr. Thomas Phillips to
put up a steam engine at the Union Colliery, in Oaken Hill Enclosure.
There was also another tramway extension by the Bullo Pill Company to the
Folly and Whimsey Collieries at the head of the Dam Pool.  A junction was
effected in 1823 between the Severn and Wye, and the Bullo Pill Tramway,
by means of the Churchway Summit, parallel to Serridge, thus connecting
the eastern and western lines of traffic.

In the year 1822 the consecration of the third of the Forest Churches,
St. Paul's, for which a site had been given by the Crown on Mason's Tump,
at Park End, took place on the 25th of April, Bishop Ryder attending.

The Fourth Triennial Report of the Commissioners of Woods, dated 1823,
intimates disappointment at the little growth made by the new
plantations, now eight or nine years old; but, on the other hand, it was
observed that "they were doing well, and that slowness of growth was
inseparable from their nature, particularly at that age."  We learn from
Mr. Machen's Notes that at this time, and again in the two succeeding
years, very severe frosts, in one instance as late as the 23rd of June,
greatly injured the young trees, more especially such as grew in low,
moist situations, although in some degree it also touched those on higher
lands.

The property known as "the Great Doward Estate" was purchased by the
Crown, in 1824, from the Miss Griffins, for 15,000 pounds.  Although
separated by the river Wye, and situated in Herefordshire, and never
before included within the limits of the Forest, it certainly groups with
the High Meadow Woods, clothing the same valley; and it moreover forms a
definite part of the geological basin of the district.

In March, 1825, the well-known and prosperous Nelson Colliery was
commenced by Messrs. Bennett and Meek.  A branch line of tramway was also
made up to Mr. Mushet's Mine, near the Shute Castle Hill Enclosure, from
the Severn and Wye line at Park End.

In each of the seasons of 1824-25 and 1825-26, Mr. Machen states that
about 500 acres of the High Meadow property was planted with oak, Scotch
fir, and larch, in proportions varying with the nature of the soil and
openness of the situation.  In the parts where shelter was most
requisite, two-thirds of fir and one-third of oak were planted, in others
half of each, and in sheltered situations oak alone.  A great many of
these plants perished in the spring and summer of 1825 from heat and
drought, and still more in 1826, which was the driest spring and summer
ever remembered.  In some high and shallow parts nearly every tree died;
a great many also were eaten off and destroyed by the hares and rabbits.
There were now 3,000 acres of wood on the High Meadow estate, viz. 2,000
acres of old woods, and 1,000 acres lately planted.  In the year last
mentioned the Fifth Triennial Report of the Commissioners of Woods, &c.,
was issued, signed by Charles Arbuthnot, Wm. Dacres Adams, and Henry
Dawkins.

By the spring of 1827 Mr. Edward Protheroe effected the opening of
collieries at Ivy Moore Head, Park End Main, Park End Royal Pits, and at
Birch Well, at most of which pumping and winding engines were put up, a
tramway 1,500 yards in length connecting them with the main road of the
Severn and Wye Company.  The same year saw a reduction of the landed
property of the Crown by the sale of its rights in the Fence Woods,
Mawkins Hazels, and Hudnalls, comprising a total of 1,273 acres 3 roods 9
poles, for 925 pounds.  The Crown's right in Hudnalls, although it
contained 1,200 acres, was of little value, as the inhabitants of St.
Briavel's had the right of cutting wood on it.

Passing over the next year, the earliest circumstance in order of time is
the opening of the important colliery at Crump Meadow, and the
construction of 1,200 yards of tramway, uniting it with the main line of
the Bullo Pill Company above Cinderford, all which was executed by Mr.
Protheroe.

We next find, under the date of March 16th, 1829, Mr. Machen
observing--"Although the Scotch firs have succeeded so well as nurses for
the oaks, and have brought them forward, making them healthy and thriving
on land that without shelter would only have produced them stunted and
unthrifty, yet I am inclined on the whole to prefer larch.  They are a
shelter available for the purpose, although not so complete; but by that
means the oaks are not kept too warm and brought too forward, and the
larch is more valuable in itself.  In some of our cold valleys, however,
the larch will not grow, the spring frosts cutting them off."  He also
remarks--"We are now planting the oaks by the side of the road from 'Jack
of the Yat' to Coleford Lane End, those at the White Oak, and opposite
the Buckholt, and those leading to Eastbatch, having been planted in 1827
and 1828.  The space of road left is about fifty feet.  Most of the trees
are brought from the Vallets Enclosure, and do not cost more than four
pence each to replant them.  They are twelve to fifteen feet high, and a
man can carry about two of them at a time.  We are also planting the
Lodge Hill about York Lodge, at the rate of 300 to an acre, leaving them
without any fence."

Upon the 6th of June this same year the sixth and last of the "Triennial
Reports of the Commissioners of Woods," &c., came out, signed Lowther,
Wm. Dacres Adams, Henry Dawkins.

With reference to 1830, Mr. Machen's note-book supplies the following
memoranda:--"2nd March, planted trees on each side the road to Breem,
also on the side of the Coleford Road below Bromley Enclosure, and about
Catchcan Coal-works, continuing the avenue down the Long Hill, planting
also the delves between Serridge and Sallow Vallets, at a cost of about
four pence per tree, no fences being put round them.  We planted also in
the Greens of Russell's Enclosure.  Some pineasters and larch were
likewise planted on the old Quarry Mounts, by the sides of the road
leading from Park End to Coleford, as likely, if successful, to produce a
good effect.

"(March, 1831, all died; renewed March, 1834--these mostly alive and
flourishing.)"

"May 28th.--The most extraordinary blight is now upon the trees that I
believe ever was known: it is confined entirely to the oak, and chiefly
to the large trees, although in some parts it is extending to the young
plantations.  The whole of the High Meadow woods and great part of the
Forest, particularly Russell's Enclosure, and where the timber is thick,
are entirely stripped of their leaves, and look as if fire had passed
through them.  Where a beech stands amongst them, it is perfectly green,
and the oaks all around quite brown.  The grubs and their webs are so
thick, that it is disagreeable to ride amongst the trees, and like going
into a net."

On the 8th June, 1830, the First Annual Report of the Commissioners under
the 10th Geo. IV., c. 50, was issued.  It was signed by Lord Lowther, Wm.
Dacres Adams, and Henry Dawkins.  Mr. Machen states in his Memoranda,
that "this winter single trees were planted on Breem Eaves; triple rows
on Clearwell Meend, by the roads on Coverham, on the Delves.  We mended
over the spots that have failed in Oaken Hill, Stapledge, Acorn Patch,
Crab-tree Hill, Sallow Vallets (chiefly by drawing out where the trees
are too thick).  Most of the enclosures are now quite filled up."  And
under date Nov. 1831, he gives the following statement of the several
plantations:--


                                                           Acres.
Land now under plantation in Dean                          11,000
Forest, enclosed by Act of
Parliament
Whitemead Park                                                240
Ellwood                                                        90
Old Keeper's Land (3)                                          90
                                                           ------
                                                           11,420
High Meadow and Doward                                      3,288
Planted with single trees                                   1,114
Young trees of natural growth                                 150
Old timber                                                    528
                                                           ------
Total                                                      16,500





CHAPTER VII.
A.D. 1831-1841.


Riots--Sessions of the Dean Forest Commissioners relative to St.
Briavel's Court--Free miners' claims--Foreigners' petition--State of the
woods--Perambulation--Rights of Commonage--Relief of the poor--Free
miners' petition--Parochial divisions--Fourth and Fifth Reports of the
Dean Forest Commissioners--Acts of 1838 and 1842--Award of the coal and
iron mines--Enclosures thrown open, and new ones formed--Provision for
the poor--Mr. Machen's memoranda.

The year 1831 is chiefly remarkable for the riotous destruction committed
on the fences and banks of the enclosures, recorded by Mr. Machen as
follows:--"In May, 1831, several of the single trees planted near
Parkend, and on Breem's Eaves, were wilfully cut off in the night, and no
discovery was made of the offenders.  In the end of May a part of the
wall of Oaken Hill Enclosure was thrown down in the night.  When the
workmen were rebuilding it, some of the colliers passing by threw out
hints that it would not stand long, and in one or two instances horses
and cattle were turned into the enclosures, and the woodmen were told
that they had been shut up long enough, and they ought to be thrown open.
The gates of several plantations had been broken in the night.  On Sunday
the 5th of June I saw Henry and Richard Dobbes pull away the bushes out
of a gateway, and turn their cow into Cockshoots Enclosure, and when I
went and expostulated with them they said they had been deprived of their
rights long enough.  Warren James had for some time been urging others to
join him in the recovery of their rights, which they considered to be
usurped by foreigners, in whose hands the principal coal-works of the
Forest are, by purchase or lease from free miners; and on the 3rd June he
had a hand-bill printed, calling upon all persons to meet and clear the
Forest on Wednesday June 8th.  I spoke to him on the 5th, and told him in
the presence of numbers the folly and danger of his proceedings; but he
paid no attention, and said the Forest was given up to them in Parliament
the year before; that he had a charter, which he would bring and show me.
I published a notice, warning all persons not to join an unlawful
assembly, and on Tuesday the 7th Mr. Ducarel and I issued a warrant to
apprehend him; but it could not be executed.  We swore in a number of
special constables, and with the woodmen mustered about forty at the
scene of action where they were to begin; but the rioters mustered nearly
200, with axes, &c., and began their work of destruction about 7 o'clock,
and we found it useless to attempt to stop them.  They were soon joined
by others, and supplied with cider, and continued their work Wednesday,
Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, in which time they destroyed nearly
one-third of the fences in the Forest, the reparation of which cost about
1,500 pounds.  On Sunday military arrived, and they all dispersed.
Warren James was apprehended and sentenced to transportation for life,
and seven or eight others to different periods of imprisonment from one
month to two years. {111}  Those who escaped suffered by lying in the
woods and concealed where they could, and I believe all now repent and
see the folly of their conduct.  I suppose altogether nearly 2,000,
including children, were employed in the work of devastation.  None of
the trees in the enclosures were injured, and where the cattle and sheep
that were let in had eaten the grass in the drives and open places, they
went back into the unenclosed Forest, and would not remain amongst the
trees.  In 1838 a pardon was sent out to Warren James, but he is not yet
come home (June, 1839), and he has not written to any one.  (1848:
nothing heard of or from Warren James.")

The above disturbance shows that an unsettled state of feeling existed in
the minds of the foresters with regard to certain supposed rights of
free-common, and which prevailed also on other points, such as the nature
and extent of the coal-gales, and the fact that the various works were
fast passing from the hands of the native free miners into those of the
foreigners; all which grievances a mischievous periodical called 'The
Forester,' published at Newnham, set forth in an exaggerated and exciting
manner.  Under such circumstances the Act of 1831 (1 and 2 Gul. IV., c.
12), authorizing the appointment of Commissioners to investigate such
complaints, was well timed.  The Commissioners were instructed to
ascertain the boundaries of the Forest and the encroachments thereon; to
inquire into the rights and privileges claimed by free miners of the
hundred of St. Briavel's, the constitution, powers, jurisdiction, and
practice of the court held there, as well as respecting a court called
"the Mine Law Court," and to report on the expediency of parochializing
the Forest.

It appears from the annual Report of the Commissioners of Woods, &c.,
dated the 8th August, 1831, and signed by Lord Duncannon, Wm. Dacres
Adams, and Henry Dawkins, that no new works were commenced this year,
except the erection of a water-mill for grinding ochre, near Sowdley,
arising probably from the unsettled condition of the district.  It
states, however, that the Crown had created an endowment of 30 pounds per
annum towards keeping the three existing churches of the Forest in
repair, the congregations using them being considered too poor to do so.

On the 21st January, 1832, the following gentlemen were appointed to act
as Commissioners of Inquiry under the late Act:--

   Robert Gordon, Esq., M.P., Kemble.
   Ebenezer Ludlow, Esq., Serjeant at Law.
   Charles Bathurst, Esq., Lydney Park.
   Edward Machen, Esq., Whitemead Park.
   Henry Clifford, Esq., Over Ross, Herefordshire.
   _Clerk_, Thomas Graham, Esq., Mitre Court, Temple.
   _Surveyor_, Mr. John Hosmer.

They held most of their sittings at the Bear Inn, in Newnham, although
they also sat occasionally at Coleford, the Speech House, St. Briavel's,
and Westbury.  They were thus occupied most of the days in the months of
February, March, April, and September, in hearing evidence "as to St.
Briavel's Court and Prison," or "as to making the Forest parochial," or
"as to the rights and privileges claimed by free miners," and "as to the
rights to open or work quarries."

Of all these sections of inquiry, the only one which the Commissioners
found they could at this time bring to a close was that having reference
to St. Briavel's Court, respecting which it appeared in evidence that out
of the 402 suits brought into it during the last twelve months, all but
five were for debts mostly under 5 pounds, to recover which a charge of 6
or 7 pounds might be incurred.

The prison attached to the Court is thus described:--"There is only one
window, which is 1 foot wide, and in a recess.  It does not open.  The
size of the room is 16.5 feet by 17.5 feet; 13 feet high; three corners
cut off.  In one corner is the doorway, 2.5 feet broad, but no door,
leading into the passage about 6 feet long, out of which the privy opens.
There is a door at the outer end of the passage, and in it a hole which
is considered necessary for air.  The floor and ceiling are of wood, and
in the former are several crevices and holes.  There is a space between
the ceiling of the parlour beneath and the floor of the prison-room
above, which is so filled with fleas and dust that in summer time it
cannot be got rid of by any cleanliness.  The privy is a dark winding
recess, about 6 feet from front to back, taken out of the solid castle
walls.  It leads to a hole going down to the bottom of the building,
which is always inaccessible for cleaning, but which till six years ago
had a drain from it into the moat; the air draws up through it into the
passage and room.  There is no water within the prisoners' liberty, and
they are therefore obliged to get some person to fetch it for them.  The
Courtroom is in a bad state."

    [Picture: Interior of the Debtors' Prison in St. Briavel's Castle]

In consideration of these facts, the Commissioners in their Report upon
it, which was published 7th July, very properly declared that the said
Court was an evil, and required remodelling altogether, and they
suggested its conversion into a Court of Requests, in which the strict
forms of law might be dispensed with, parties appearing and being
examined in person, without the intervention of professional agents.  Its
Commissioners might comprise the Constable of the Castle of St.
Briavel's, the verderers of the Forest, the magistrates of the
neighbourhood, and about thirty other persons, any two of whom, under the
presidency of one of the former, should form a Court, and decide cases of
debt from 10s. to 10 pounds, with power to direct payment of the debt by
instalments, or levies upon goods on failure of payment, there being no
imprisonment of the person except for fraud, which should then take place
in the county gaol at Little Dean, where, or at Coleford, the Court
should meet the first Monday in every month.  Such was the purport of the
Report the Commissioners made to Parliament on the 7th July in this year.

              [Picture: Court Room in St. Briavel's Castle]

The Fourth Annual Report of the Commissioners of Woods, &c., dated the
28th of August, 1832, states that Messrs. Hill had obtained the
permission of the Crown, under a lease for thirty-one years, and a rental
of 25 pounds, to remove all that they could find of the slag, cinders,
and refuse of the ancient ironworks; thus resuming an occupation which
had been discontinued for many years.  The new Fancy Pits were now
furnished with two engines and we also find that for a time timber ceased
to be supplied from this Forest to the Royal Dockyards.

The Dean Forest Commissioners resumed their sittings the next year (1833)
on the 12th of April at Newnham, and proceeded to hear further evidence
"as to the rights and privileges claimed by free miners;" but the only
important occurrence which ensued was the presentation of a "Memorial,"
by Mr. Mushet, on behalf of parties not free miners, specifying the
claims which such proprietors and occupiers of coal and iron mines in the
Forest had to the support of Government in maintaining their position in
the district.  The Memorial states that "foreigners" had possessed coal
and iron mines time out of mind, as appeared by the case of several
gentlemen and freeholders of the parish of Newland, who, as long since as
the year 1675, claimed the right to open certain works without any
objection being made by the free miners, a liberty which, whenever it was
acted upon, seems always to have benefited the public; that none of the
documents of the Mine Law Court appear to exclude foreigners from working
the mines; on the contrary, the Resolutions of that Court, passed 1775,
establish such a right, allowing the free miner to sell or bequeath his
property in the mines to any persons he may think proper; that the old
gale-books contain the names of many persons not free miners, which, with
similar testimony from Messrs. Tovey, James, &c., showed such to have
been the uniform practice for sixty years; that the foreigners have
always carried on their works with the full knowledge and authority of
the Crown; that the free miners do not possess the necessary capital for
carrying on the works, in which the foreigners have invested 700,000
pounds; and, lastly, that the Crown has gained several thousand pounds
per annum in consequence.  Twenty-one persons signed this Memorial, as
also the representatives of the Forest of Dean and the Cinderford Iron
Companies.

Another Memorial was likewise presented by a dozen of the inhabitants of
the Forest, showing that, instead of their cottages and gardens tending
to throw a burden on the adjoining parishes, the very contrary was the
case, as many were therefore enabled to support themselves without
applying to those parishes.  The petitioners also prayed that no further
part of the Forest might be enclosed for the supposed benefit of the
adjacent parishes, as thereby many persons would be deprived of
grazing-land for their cattle, and in consequence be necessitated to
apply to the next parishes for assistance.

Alluding to the state of the woods at this time (1833), Mr. Machen's
Notes, under the date of the 29th of May, state:--"This is now the fourth
year in which the blight has been so prevailing upon the oak and in the
Forest.  I think this year it is worse than ever, and now the young
plantations suffer most, the large timber being comparatively free.  Park
Hill, Oaken Hill, Nag's Head, Barn Hill, Stapledge, &c., and especially
all the higher parts of them, are leafless, except where a beech or a
chesnut shows its green foliage amidst the brown oaks.  I saw a few rooks
in Russell's to-day, and last year I noticed great numbers.  They seem to
be drawn to the Forest to feed on the grubs, for they are not generally
here, and I only hope they will increase.  The woodmen complain that in
some situations the running of the bark has been checked; but considering
it has now been four years, it seems wonderful that more injury is not
done to the trees: they put out new leaves at the midsummer shoot, and
appear to recover.  June 4th: found the grubs changed into a chrysalis,
enclosed in a leaf, with a kind of web round it.  June 18th: the moths
appeared in vast numbers.  The rooks are still about in Park Hill."

The usual Report to Government, being the fifth annual one, was issued on
the 28th August, 1833, signed "Duncannon, W. D. Adams, B. C. Stephenson."
Licence was granted to construct 600 yards of tramway from the Severn and
Wye line up to the Church Hill Colliery at Park End, and the Dean Forest
Commissioners appointed under the Act of Parliament (1 & 2 Gul. IV. c.
12) had their commission extended.

In the autumn of 1833 the Dean Forest Commissioners directed their
attention to the important object of settling the limits of the Forest,
in doing which they wisely determined to be governed by the Messrs.
Driver's maps of 1787, according to which the Forest boundaries had for a
length of time been regarded as practically settled, comprising the soil,
timber, and herbage actually belonging to the Crown.  Its boundaries as
thus defined were perambulated in due ancient form, commencing on the
10th of September. {118}  The cavalcade included Commissioners Robert
Gordon, Esq.; Mr. Serjeant Ludlow; Charles Bathurst, Esq.; and Edward
Machen, Esq., the Deputy-Surveyor; with Mr. Graham, their Clerk; and Mr.
Hosmer, their Surveyor; followed by the keepers and woodmen.  "We began"
(writes Mr. Machen) "on Tuesday at Little Dean, and ended at Breem;
Wednesday we ended at Hoarthorns, Thursday at Drybrook, Friday at the
Stenders, and Saturday at Little Dean.  We were occupied eight or nine
hours each day, accomplishing about nine miles daily by the map, but the
actual distance must have been nearly double."

The year 1834 is marked by the Dean Forest Commissioners issuing their
second Report, dated 1st of May, in which, after briefly explaining the
data on which the late perambulation had been conducted, they proceed to
state that, as respects the various encroachments, 1,510 acres 2 roods 32
poles were taken in before 1787.  Since that date, and up to the year
1812, further encroachments to the extent of 573 acres 10.5 poles had
been made, and again from 1812 to the present time 24 acres 2 roods 9.5
poles had been taken in.  In consideration of the Crown never having
reclaimed the old encroachments, the Commissioners recommended that all
such lands "should be declared to be freehold of inheritance," provided
no additional dwelling-houses were erected on them without the licence of
the Crown.  They advised that the next oldest encroachments "should be
granted to their present possessors for three lives, not renewable except
at the pleasure of the Crown, and paying rents varying from one shilling
to two shillings per acre."  As to the latest encroachments, they gave
their opinion that "their possessors should have terms varying from
fourteen to twenty-one years, paying rents varying from four to eight
shillings per acre; the condition as to building dwelling-houses to apply
to these classes also."  The following table, showing the acreage of the
encroachments, classed as stated above, with the number of houses situate
in the six "Walks" of the Forest, serves to exhibit the localities of the
population of the district for the last hundred years.


 Name of     Houses.     Previous                   Between                     Since
 "Walk."                 to 1787.                   1787 and                    1812.
                                                     1812.
                          A.       R.       P.       A.       R.       P.       A.       R.        P.
Worcester       404      324        1       38      160        2        3        0        1        19
Park End        304      473        0       18       43        3       34       14        2         6
Blakeney        249      180        2       25       62        0     35.5        2        0       9.5
Little          196      174        1        6      104        0       33        4        3        26
Dean
Speech                                                0        2        7
House
Ruerdean        290      353        0       26      199        3       36        2        1        11
Hillier's        17        5        3       39        1        2       22
Lane
Yorkley           2        1        0        0                                   0        1        18
Lane
                ---    -----    -----      ---     ----     ----      ---     ----     ----      ----
               1462     1510        2       32      573        0     10.5       24        2       9.5


During the greater part of September this year the Dean Forest
Commissioners were engaged either at Newnham, Westbury, or the
Speech-house hearing evidence "as to forming the Forest into a Parish,"
and respecting "Rights of Common."  With the design of eliciting the
opinions of the neighbourhood on the first head, for civil purposes only,
"a circular was drawn up on the subject of enclosing lands on the outward
boundaries of the Forest, with a view of relieving the conterminous
parishes from the support of the Forest poor."  It was sent to the
parishes bordering on the Forest, requesting the attendance of the
clergymen, overseers, and landowners, for the purpose of discussing such
a plan.  This courteous invitation was responded to by the parish
authorities of Westbury, Flaxley, Little Dean, Mitcheldean, Awre,
Staunton, Ruerdean, the Lea hamlet, Bicknor, and St. Briavel's, the Rev.
H. Berkin attending on the part of the Forest clergy, when the scheme of
the Commissioners was unanimously approved.  By the evidence taken under
the second head, it appears that the parishes or tithings of Westbury,
Little Dean, Awre, Ruerdean, Bicknor, Lea hamlet, Breem, Clearwell,
Newland, Lydney, St. Briavel's, Newnham, Woolaston, and Purton, claimed
the right of Common of Pasture.

In the same month "the Free Miners of the Forest" presented to the
Commissioners an able memorial of their rights, in reply to that
preferred the year before by persons not free miners, but who were
proprietors and occupiers of coal and iron mines in the Forest; its
object being to prove that "foreigners possessing and working mines
therein was in direct violation of the rights and privileges of the free
miners, contrary to their customs and franchises, and are acts of
injustice and usurpation."  They affirmed that the present usage of
foreigners possessing mines was not of long standing,--that it dated from
the discontinuance of the Mine Law Court in 1777, by which all such
intrusions were strictly checked and prevented; that this Court had been
in full operation upwards of 500 years, as they verily believed, and so
continued until the last 60 years, meeting periodically under the
presidency of the Constable appointed by the King, and attended by his
deputies and by the King's Gaveller; and that, if this Court were
re-established, and their rights and privileges restored to them, there
would be no difficulty in finding capital for the proper working of the
mines.  The memorial was signed by 1,036 persons, professedly free
miners.  But, as to this being the fact, a further memorial was presented
to the Commissioners on the 23rd of December, urging "that no person
should be considered a free miner whose birth from parents free miners
cannot be proved, in addition to their having been born in the Forest,
and worked in the mines a year and a day."  According to such rule, the
original number of 1,036 would be reduced to 798.  On the 24th of
December this year (1834) another memorial, coming from free miners in
the occupation of stone-quarries within the Forest, was laid before the
Commissioners, pleading in few words for similar rights and customs in
respect of stone-quarries as were claimed in regard of mines.  The names
of thirteen quarrymen were attached thereto.

Upon the 9th and three following days of June in the ensuing year (1835)
the Dean Forest Commissioners, at meetings held in London, received
letters from the Bishop of the diocese, from the clergymen of the Forest,
and of the Lea and Flaxley parishes, recommending the parochializing the
Forest for ecclesiastical purposes, either by means of curates with small
chapels, or by dividing the whole into a certain number of distinct
districts severally provided with a church and an incumbent.  The
Commissioners reported unanimously in favour of making the Forest
parochial; and for all spiritual purposes they recommended an assignment
of districts to each of the churches already built, as also the erection
of a church and parsonage at Cinderford, with a stipend of 150 pounds
annexed, to which amount the salaries of the three existing ministers
should also be raised.  They further recommended the enlargement of the
Lydbrook school-room into a chapel, with 80 pounds stipend to the
clergyman serving it; and they likewise advised forming Viney Hill,
having a population of nearly 800, into a district, or annexing it to
Blakeney, the church there, and minister's salary, being enlarged
accordingly.  They also suggested that the 150 persons residing on Pope's
Hill should be united to Flaxley, with 20 pounds added to the clergyman's
stipend; and that the Lea Bailey, with its 100 inhabitants, should be
annexed in the same manner, and under the same conditions, to the Lea
parish.

In the second place, as to the relief of the poor inhabitants of the
Forest, the Commissioners were of opinion that it would be impossible to
raise a fund for this purpose by means of rates on property, as so much
was in the actual occupation of the Crown, or connected with mining, or
the holders being too poor to bear the burthen.  They advised, therefore,
that about 1,600 acres of the Forest land should be enclosed and let out
for the purpose of furnishing such a provision, to be dispensed at the
discretion of a Board composed of the constable of St. Briavel's Castle,
the verderers, clergymen, and deputy-surveyor, and the magistrates acting
for the Forest division, and six inhabitants as coadjutors. {122}

On the 25th of August the Dean Forest Commissioners presented their
fourth and fifth Reports.  In the former, which gives a minute summary of
the rights and privileges claimed by the free miners (derived chiefly
from the evidence taken in 1832), the origin of them is stated to be
involved in obscurity, although no doubt iron was manufactured in the
neighbourhood as early as the time of the Romans, and coal was obtained
in the reign of Edward III.  Probably before, and certainly soon after,
the Norman Conquest, the soil was vested in the Crown, and all the rights
of a royal forest were in force.  The persons by whom the mines were then
worked could not have been, in the first instance, free tenants of the
Crown.  It is more likely that they were in a state of servitude, and
subject, in that character, to perform the labour required of them.  The
name of "Free Miners," by which they are and have been for centuries
known, seems to refer to some right or privilege distinct from their
original condition; and it does not appear unreasonable to suppose that
certain persons at some distant period, either by having worked for a
year and a day, or by reason of some now unknown circumstance connected
with the origin of the privilege, were considered as emancipated, and
thereupon became entitled or were allowed to work the mines upon their
own adventure, concurrently with or subject to the right of the Crown to
a certain portion of the product.

Noticing in succession many of the historical incidents attaching to the
free miners of the Forest, the Report states that the franchise of the
mine was unquestionably perpetuated by birth from a free father in the
hundred of St. Briavel's, and afterwards working a year and a day in one
of the mines and abiding within the hundred.  Doubt is, however, thrown
upon the necessity of birth from a free miner, the more so as the son of
a foreigner could obtain his freedom after working out an apprenticeship
of seven years with a free miner; and it would be difficult, if not
impossible, at the present time, to confine the title to anything beyond
birth and service, to which particular class of individuals the Court of
Mine Law confined all mining operations.

Entering in the next place into a consideration of the actual claims of
the free miners, the Commissioners declare their opinion as to how their
claims are to be settled, suggesting at once the question "whether they
can be now maintained with advantage to the miners themselves, or to the
community," connected as they are with a most defective system of
working, productive of incessant disputes and expensive litigation, and
occasioning constant disputes and never-ending jealousy; and they thus
conclude--"Taking all the circumstances of the case into consideration,
we are of opinion that the monopoly and customary workings are
practically at an end, and that, if individual claims were bought up, the
whole coal-field might then be let by the Crown as between landlord and
tenant, defining the limits and regulating the working."

The fifth and final Report of the Dean Forest Commissioners bore the same
date as the preceding.  It contains the evidence produced before them as
to "certain claims of common of pasture" made by the inhabitants of the
following parishes bounding the Forest, and paying a small sum annually,
called "herbage money," to the lessee of the Crown of the manor and
hundred of St. Briavel's, and the manor of Newland, as annexed:--


                              _s._              _d._
Little Dean                      3                 4
parish
Newnham  ,,                      3                 4
Staunton  ,,                     2                 0
Longhope  ,,                     3                 4
Abbenhall  ,,                    3                 4
Mitcheldean  ,,                  7                 0
Hope Mansel  ,,                  1                 0
Ruerdean  ,,                     3                 4
Bicknor  ,,                      1                 0
Alvington  ,,                    5                 0  will not pay.
Newland  ,,                     10                 0
Huntisham                        7                 8  will not pay.
tithing
Bledisloe                        3                 4
Etloe Dutchy                     5                 0  }
Etloe tithing                    3                 0  } In Awre.
Box  ,,                          3                 4  }
Hagloe and                       5                 5  }
Purton
Blaisdon                         6                 8
Blakeney                         4                 0
tithing
Awre parish                      8                 0


It is highly probable that the above claims, and the payments for the
ancient agistments, originated when the limits of the Forest comprehended
the parishes by which they are made.  The earliest authentic trace of
them occurs in the agreement made by Charles I. with Sir John Winter in
1640, according to which about 4,000 acres of Crown land was to be taken
in and attached to the bordering parishes in lieu of their rights of
commonage; and in conformity with the principle of this agreement, the
Commissioners recommended "that these commonable rights should be
comprised in some general arrangement for the purpose of a commutation."

The last subject the Commissioners notice is the stone-quarries, which
persons born within the hundred of St. Briavel's claimed the right of
opening in the waste lands of the Forest, on payment of a fee of three
shillings to the gaveller, and an annual rent of three shillings and
fourpence, according to the custom of at least the last hundred years, a
period too long to justify the withdrawal of any existing gale, unless by
compensation.  Hence all that the Commissioners found themselves
justified in recommending to the Crown, with the view of putting the
working of the stone-quarries on a better footing, was to re-issue gales
on liberal leases to all parties born within the hundred who applied for
the same within a specified time.

In bringing their labours to a close, the Commissioners urge the
necessity of passing an Act for definitively settling the several
particulars to which their inquiries had been directed, adding that it
would be well to incorporate the offices of Constable of St. Briavel's
Castle, and Warden of the Forest, with the office of Woods, lest they
should be found to interfere with its future administration, at that time
under the charge of Lord Duncannon, B. C. Stephenson, Esq., and A. Milne,
Esq.; and this was accordingly done in the following year.

We gather from Mr. Machen's memoranda that the nurseries in the Forest at
this time (1835) contained:--


   Oak.     Chesnut.    Larch.    Scotch.    Spruce.     Ash.          Quick.
   310,000     1,300    66,500    74,700      5,300   120,000  124,000 total.
   200,000     1,300    40,000    40,000      5,300    10,000  30,000 fit to
                                                                  plant out.


and, moreover, that 276,054 trees of various kinds had been planted out
during the previous winter.

On the 27th of July, 1838, the Royal Assent was given to "an Act for
regulating the opening and working of mines and quarries in the Forest of
Dean, and Hundred of St. Briavel's, by the agency of a Board of
Commissioners."  Thomas Sopwith, Esq., of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, was
appointed by the Board of Woods and Forests a Commissioner for the
purpose on behalf of the Crown; and John Probyn, Esq., of Longhope
Manor-house, Gloucestershire, was selected by the body of free miners to
act on their behalf; and the office of arbitrator between them was filled
by John Buddle, Esq., of Wallsend, in the county of Northumberland;
Thomas Graham, Esq., acting as their solicitor, and Mr. Henry Ebsworth as
his clerk. {126}

Some idea may be formed of the necessity for such a mining Commission,
and of the difficulties it had to overcome, from the following
particulars, as Mr. Sopwith stated them in his valuable Paper on "Mining
Plans and Records," read before the British Association at Newcastle in
1838:--"Great distrust of any interference" (he says) "existed, and some
of the mine-owners refused to allow of underground surveys being made.
Numerous and conflicting parties were then working mines under customs
which were totally inapplicable to the present state of mining;
destructive at once to the interests of the free miners of the Forest;
ruinous, as sad experience had shown, to the enterprising capitalist; and
subversive of the rights of the Crown.  So great was the perplexity, and
so numerous and conflicting were the claims of contending parties, that
the law advisers of the Board of Woods deemed it almost impossible to
arrive at any satisfactory adjustment of them within the period of three
years, as named in the Dean Forest Mining Act.  The ruinous and
unsatisfactory state of the mines must appear obvious on a slight
consideration.  As no plans existed, it was impossible to tell to what
extent or in what direction the underground works were being carried.
The crossing of mattocks, that is to say, the actual meeting of the
workmen underground, was often the abrupt signal for contention; the
driving of narrow headings was a means by which one coal-owner might gain
possession of coal which of right belonged to another; and a pit, though
sunk at a cost of several thousand pounds, had no secured possession of
coal beyond 12 yards round it, that is, a tract of coal 24 yards in
diameter.  At 40 or 50 yards from such a work another adventurer might
commence a pit, and have an equal right, if right it could be called, to
the coal.  If a long and expensive adit was driven, another one might be
commenced only a few yards deeper; and, from such a state of things, it
is quite clear that great uncertainty and frequent losses inevitably
ensued."  Moreover, the receipts from mines and minerals, by the Crown,
upon the average of the six preceding years, were only 826 pounds 2s.
10.5d.

The important Act by which these difficulties were to be removed, under
the auspices of the three Commissioners above named, was framed in
accordance with the suggestion thrown out in the fourth Report of the
Dean Forest Commissioners, viz., that all subsisting mine-works should be
released by compensation to the Crown, and the whole relet on a
well-defined plan to such free miners as might make application for the
same.  The Act (1 and 2 Vict. cap. 43) provides that all male persons
born and abiding within the hundred of St. Briavel's, being upwards of
twenty-one years of age and having worked a year and a day in a coal or
iron mine or stone-quarry within the said hundred, should alone have the
right to hold or dispose of such works, a register of all such persons
being kept as "free miners."  It suppressed all claims to pit timber,
with all "customs," and assigned to the Commissioners under the Act the
duty of fixing rents and royalties for twenty-one years, and to the
gaveller power to limit and regulate as well as to enter and survey all
works which might be re-awarded or galed.  No engines were to be erected
nearer than sixty yards to any enclosure, within which only air-shafts
might be opened, and all unnecessary buildings were to be removed.

On the 16th of August, 1838, the annual Report of the Commissioners of
Woods was issued, signed by Lord Duncannon, B. C. Stephenson and A.
Milne, Esqrs.  It mentions that a piece of land in the parish of English
Bicknor had been granted for school purposes, and that the Severn and Wye
Tramway Company obtained the licence of the Crown to lay down a branch
from Brook Hall Ditches to Foxes Bridge.

The only circumstance requiring notice in the following year is the
decease of the second Commissioner of Woods, Sir B. C. Stephenson, who
had long held the office, and he was succeeded by the Honourable Charles
Gore.

The next annual Report bears date 29th July, 1840, and contains nothing
calling for special notice.

The year 1841 is particularly important in the history of the Forest from
its being the date of the present coal and iron mine awards, under the
authority of the Mining Commissioners, the former being signed on the 8th
of March, and the latter on the 20th of July.  By these awards no less
than 104 collieries were defined and assigned, together with twenty
iron-mines, and certain rules and regulations were laid down for working
them.

The duties of the Mining Commissioners having now closed, it must have
been highly gratifying to those gentlemen to receive from the Government
the following expressions of commendation, communicated by Mr. A.
Milne:--"I am to convey to you our entire approbation of the zeal,
ability, and sound discretion which appear to have marked all your
proceedings in the performance of the very important, difficult, and
laborious duties which devolved upon you, and their belief that, while
the result will be very beneficial to the interests of the Crown, it will
be attended with equal advantage to the great body of mining adventurers
in securing their titles to the property on very reasonable and moderate
terms, and subject to the regulations and conditions which seem to be
well calculated to protect them from that constant and expensive
litigation which had so long existed."

The total cost of adjusting the working of the coal and iron mines was
10,459 pounds 1s. 3d.  The valuable services of the Mining Commissioners
were again noticed in the annual Report of the Board of Woods, published
on the 9th August in the following year, when 408 acres 2 roods were
thrown open in Blakeney Hill (south) and the South Lea Bailey Copse, a
similar extent of open Forest being enclosed at St. Low and Great
Kenseley.  It also adverts to an Act passed on 30th of July previous,
dividing the Forest into ecclesiastical districts, constituting them
"Perpetual Curacies," and attaching the churches of Christ Church, Holy
Trinity, and St. Paul's to them, the stipends of each being raised to 150
pounds.  The patronage of the two former was vested in the Crown, and the
latter in the Bishop of the Diocese.  The Act likewise authorizes the
formation of a fourth district at Cinderford, and the erection and
endowment of a church there: thus each district comprised the following
number of acres:--


St. John's                                   5934
St. Paul's                                   7741
Holy Trinity                                 5859
Christ Church                                3149
                                           ------
                             Total         22,683


The same Report also notices the provisions now made for the relief of
the poor, and for the abolition of the court and prison of the hundred of
St. Briavel's.  The Act for the relief of the poor is dated the 9th of
July, and authorizes the introduction of the new Poor Law, dividing the
Forest into the two townships of East and West Dean, by a line drawn in a
diagonal direction from Lydbrook to Ayleford, being in fact almost the
same boundary which separated the ancient divisions of "above and beneath
the wood."  The Act attached East Dean to the Westbury-upon-Severn Union,
and West Dean to that of Monmouth.  It also united the Hudnalls, the
Bearse, the Fence, and Mawkins Hazells to the parishes of St. Briavel's
and Hewelsfield, Mailscot and an adjoining tract to English Bicknor, and
Walmore and Northwood's Green to the parish of Westbury-upon-Severn, for
the support of their own poor, by means of rates levied as their
respective overseers for the relief of the poor should direct.




CHAPTER VIII.
A.D. 1841-1858.


Messrs. Clutton's, &c., Report on the Forest timber--Viscount Duncan's
Committee--Supply of 1,000 loads of timber to the Pembroke Dockyard
resumed--Mr. Drummond's Committee--Report of Mr. Brown--Messrs.
Matthews's Report.

By this time (1842) some of the enclosures made in 1814 were become fit
for being thrown open, the young trees having grown up sufficiently, and
the following Commissioners, viz., Lord Lincoln, A. Milne, C. Gore, Sir
T. Crawley, J. Pyrke, M. Colchester, C. Bathurst, E. Machen, P. J.
Ducarel, J. F. Brickdale, Esqrs., proceeded to authorize the laying open
of 163 acres 2 roods 24 poles in Little Stapledge and Birchwood,
directing that an equal quantity of land should be added to the Acorn
Patch and the Bourts.

In the year 1843 Beechenhurst and Shutcastle Enclosures, comprising 467
acres 2 roods 31 poles, were disenclosed, an equal extent of land at the
Delves, Harry Hill, Hangerberry, Old Croft, the Blind Meand, Cleverend
Green, Clearwell Meand, and Birch Hill being taken in.  Upon the 22nd of
this October a sale was effected to the Crown, for the sum of 1,260
pounds, of the eligible school premises at Cinderford, erected originally
by Mr. Protheroe for his workpeople.  On the 22nd of October in the
ensuing year, 1844, the church adjoining the school just named, to the
erection of which Dr. Warneford and Charles Bathurst, Esq., largely
contributed, was consecrated by Bishop Monk, the Crown endowing it with
150 pounds per annum, making the total sum given by the Government to
church endowments in the Forest upwards of 10,347 pounds.  The following
year is almost a blank in the annals of the neighbourhood.  The Report of
the Commissioners of Woods was issued on the 5th of August.

In 1846 enclosures to the extent of 1,433 acres 3 roods 5 poles,
comprising Blakeney Hill, Crab-tree Hill (North), Holly Hill, Bromley,
part of Edgehills, and part of Stapledge, were thrown open, and instead
thereof enclosures were made at Light Moor, Middle Ridge, and Phelp's
Meadow, Blaize Bailey, Mitcheldean Meand (North, South), and Loquiers,
the Delves No. 4, Crump Meadow, Bourts No. 1 and 2, Eastbatch Meand, and
Coverham (North and South).  The Commissioners of Woods published their
yearly Report on the 25th of August this year, signed by Lord Morpeth.
It states that since 1841 upwards of 291 pieces of encroached land had
been purchased by the foresters for 201 pounds 13s. 3d., and that no less
than 193 grants of coal and iron mine had been galed under 1 and 2 Vict.
c. 48, at a total annual rent to the Crown of 3,783 pounds, in sums
varying from 1 to 250 pounds, as at the Bilson Colliery, besides 315
grants of stone-quarries at a total rent of 87 pounds 9s. 7d.  This
includes the following coal-works lately galed, viz., the collieries of
Nash's Folly, New Mill Engine, Unity Colliery, Nag's Head, Smart's Delph,
Gosly Knoll, producing a rental of 16 pounds, and the iron-mines at Old
Park, Scarpit, Easter, <DW72> Pit, Yew-tree, Bromley Hill, Drybrook,
Prince of Wales, Belt, and Wigpool, bringing 81 pounds 10s. to the Crown,
to all which receipts a royalty of so much per ton on the mineral sold
was added.

Mr. Machen's Notes inform us that in the autumn of 1846 "there was the
most abundant crop of Spanish chesnuts we have ever had, and they ripen
well, but the people injure the trees to get them.  No acorns at
all--there are some on the Turkey oaks.  The fruit of most kinds has
failed this year, as well as the potatoes; but of some kinds, such as
chesnuts, grapes, blackberries, the crop is abundant.  The spruce firs
are looking very bad; many of them are nearly dead."

Except as respects the granting of additional coal and iron gales, the
succeeding year of 1847 may be passed over.  It appears by the annual
Report which came out on the 29th of June, that the new iron-mines galed
were those of Wigpool, Dean's Meand, Fairplay, Lydbrook, Symmond's Rock,
Earl Fitzharding's Frog Pit, Penswell's, Eastbatch, and Tufton, paying a
rental to the Crown of 104 pounds, and Morgan's Folly Colliery, rented at
4 pounds.

Proceeding to the year 1848, the Report of the Commissioners of Woods,
which appeared in September, informs us that upwards of 18,000 acres in
the district of the Forest were covered with wood and timber.
Unfortunately blight again prevailed, of which in the month of June Mr.
Machen's MS. records:--"The oak-trees have been attacked for several
years past by a small caterpillar which eats all the leaves, and this
year the destruction has been greater than ever; the whole Forest has
been almost leafless; the high ground and the low, the large timber and
the young plantations, have all suffered alike.  The first time I noticed
this blight was in 1830, when the High Meadow woods and many parts of the
Forest suffered, but it was principally confined to the large timber.  It
has continued more or less every year since, but this has been the worst
year of any; yet it is remarkable that the High Meadow Woods are free
from it and in fine foliage, but no part of the Forest has escaped.  The
grub, a little black caterpillar, comes to life just as the oak is coming
into leaf, and feeds upon the leaves.  It attacks no other tree; the
beech, chesnut, &c., stand in full verdure surrounded by the brown and
leafless oaks.  They envelop the tree in a web they spin about the end of
May; they enclose themselves in a leaf curled up, and remain in a
chrysalis state until the middle of June or July, when they change into a
pale greenish small moth that flies about the trees in myriads, and lay
their eggs in the bark of the trees for future mischief, and then die.
There seems to be no means of checking their ravages.  The rooks come in
great numbers, and they and other birds destroy great quantities.  The
trees put forth a second foliage at the midsummer shoot, but not full,
and the shoot of the year and the growth of the trees must be injured."

Under the date of the 30th of April, 1849, Messrs. John Clutton and
Richard Hall report to the Government, on the Forest of Dean, that "there
are about five hundred acres of the open Forest now covered with old
timber, which is for the most part very fine and of very large size, and
is nearly all of good quality.  Our opinion is that a large portion of
this timber is fit for naval purposes, and we suppose it to be worth
49,000 pounds.  Its precise age we are not enabled to discover, but our
impression is that this timber is about 160 years of age.  It has clearly
been planted since 1667, as it is recorded that only 200 trees remained
on the Forest in that time.  There is some old timber fit for the navy in
the enclosed plantations, of the probable value of 34,500 pounds.  There
are also about 500 acres of land planted in the Forest with single trees,
which are in process of becoming fit for naval purposes; and there is a
further portion occupied with trees of spontaneous growth.  These, with
the plantations thrown open, we estimate at 3,000 acres; the value of
these we estimate at 106,000 pounds.  The Crown has now occupied with
young and old timber about 14,000 acres of the Forest."

The same reporters speak of "the existing plantations being in a very
good state, having been judiciously and well planted, fully stocked, well
managed, and sufficiently protected.  They are properly drained and amply
thinned; so that there is upon the ground, in a state to proceed to
maturity, as good a crop as can be found to exist in any part of England,
taking extent and quality of soil into consideration.  The plantations
reflect great credit upon all parties concerned in their management, the
system of which we should strongly advise to be continued.  To remove the
young trees with the view of converting the land into arable cultivation
would involve a loss of 280,500 pounds, besides that of the increasing
net annual profit, which official returns prove to be as follows:--


                     pounds.              _s._                  _d._
From 1828 to            1531                17                     4
1832, or
average of 5
years
  ,,  1833 to           2475                16                     2
1838  ,,
  ,,  1839 to           3566                17                     1
1843  ,,
  ,,  1843 to           5482                11                     3
1848  ,,


Early in this year a select Committee of the House of Commons was
appointed to inquire into the expenditure and management of the Woods,
Forests, and Land Revenues of the Crown, Viscount Duncan being in the
chair.  Mr. Machen was examined by the committee with regard to the
Forest of Dean, and amongst other particulars stated that "the fact of
the expenditure on account of this Forest having increased within the
last six years was explained by the circumstance that 3,000 pounds a year
had been laid out on the new plantations, and that the balance in favour
of the Crown had been still further reduced by the recent fall in the
price of bark and also of timber, owing probably to peculiar difficulties
attending its removal."  He observed that large immediate profits could
not be obtained from the oak plantations, which would, however, increase
in value at the rate of about 15,000 pounds a year; and moreover that a
considerable revenue from the sale of timber-props for the mine-works,
&c., might be expected.  Mr. Machen also reported an improvement in the
order and conduct of the inhabitants of the Forest generally, the fruit,
it may reasonably be assumed, of the many years of pious labour which the
clergy and Christian teachers of the neighbourhood had bestowed on the
people.  The Act of 1841, under which the mines of the Forest were
awarded, had, he said, been found most useful.  Before the arrangements
under this Act were effected, much quarrelling and litigation were
continually taking place.  The royalty paid by the various mines to the
Crown amounted to 4,000 pounds a year, and was steadily increasing; eight
years ago it was only 700 pounds.

The evidence of Mr. Langham, the Assistant Deputy Surveyor, relates to
the mode in which pit-timber and cordwood for the charcoal burner were
supplied, as well as the method pursued in planting, being that of about
1,300 young oaks to the acre, and the same of larch, four feet apart.
Mr. Nicholson, a tenant of the Park End Colliery, forcibly urged the
construction of branch lines of railway, connecting the different works
in the Forest with the leading lines, to the certain benefit of the
coal-master, the consumer, and the Crown, the existing tramways being
inadequate to their purpose.

Mr. Isaiah Teague took the same view, and further supported the
recommendation that greater facilities should be given, not only to the
mineowners to build cottages for their men, but also that the operatives
themselves should be enabled to buy small plots of land for the purpose,
they being now frequently obliged to live far distant from their places
of work, there being few, if any, houses situated near them.  These
witnesses, as well as several others, agreed in stating that it was
inexpedient to have deer in the Forest, as unsettling the habits of the
people, and encouraging poaching.  They yet admitted, however, that the
deer were highly ornamental.

It was also stated in evidence that the Forest was now fully planted; and
whereas some of the witnesses recommended that the larger portion of the
wood should be cut, and the remainder converted into arable or pasture
land, it was shown by others that to do so would be like cutting a crop
of wheat whilst green, and be defeating the original intention of the
Government, which was to raise timber for the use of the navy, which the
private woods of the kingdom could not supply.  Much, too, of the soil
was said to be unsuited for farming purposes, being so precipitous in
some parts, and stony in others, as to be unfit for ploughing.  Much of
the timber was reported to be of the finest character, and the young
trees, for the most part, doing very well.  No improvements in the
management of the estate were suggested, and at the close of the inquiry
the committee reported that the plantations were growing luxuriantly,
having been well thinned, and did credit to all concerned in their
management.

The succeeding year of 1850 is chiefly noticeable for a general meeting
on behalf of the fund for defraying the expenses of the contemplated
Industrial Exhibition of all Nations, to take place the next year.  It
was held upon Wednesday the 12th of June, on the green in front of the
Speech-house, under the presidency of Mr. Machen, supported by the
magistrates and master-miners of the district.  The day was fine, and at
least 5,000 people attended--three bands of music accompanying them from
the different sides of the Forest.  A large waggon constituted the
platform on which the speakers stood.  The sight was a striking one,
amidst the fine foliage of the surrounding Forest, and all passed off in
a manner worthy of the occasion.

The Commissioners of Woods' Report, dated the 27th of June this year,
informs us that gales of coal had been granted, under the names of the
Beaufort Engine, Oaken Hill, New Bridge, East Slade (lapsed), and the
Injunction Iron Mine--paying a total rental of 54 pounds.  In November
following this Forest contributed its quota of navy-timber, amounting to
388 loads 22 feet, towards the total of 1,000 loads levied upon the Royal
Forests; which quantity was delivered at the Pembroke Dockyard at the
cost of 992 pounds 8s. for carriage.  It may also be mentioned that at
the Gloucester Summer Assizes of this year the action of Lord Seymour, as
Chief Commissioner of Woods, _versus_ Morrell, for arrears of dead rent
which accumulated to the amount of 1,291 pounds 1s. 2d., was tried before
Lord Chief Justice Campbell and a special jury, when a verdict was found
for the Crown, subject to the opinion of the Court of Queen's Bench upon
a special case, which proved, however, confirmatory of the original
decision.

On the 30th of July, 1851, the official Report on the Forest was issued.
It gives us the dates of three grants of land made this spring for school
purposes, situated at Viney and Blakeney Hill, and at Ruerdean Woodside.
It also bears fresh testimony to the satisfactory working of the Act of 1
& 2 Vict., c. 43, for regulating the opening and working of mines and
quarries, the litigation to which they had formerly given rise under the
ill-defined and objectionable customs which had so long prevailed having
almost entirely ceased.  The actual amount annually paid to the Crown
during the last six years was stated to be 4,281 pounds 17s. 4d., besides
the profit made by the sale of pit-timber.  Royalties and tonnage-dues
were its chief sources, although arrears of minimum or dead rent had
accumulated to the extent of 12,805 pounds 8s. 2.5d.--payment having been
refused in some cases on the plea that at certain times no minerals had
been raised.  Gales of coal had been granted to Cousin's Engine,
Beaufort, and Fox Hole; and during the previous year 335,687 tons of coal
and 80,531 tons of iron mine had been raised.  This autumn arrangements
were made for felling 553 loads of timber in the Forest, and 177 loads in
the High Meadow Woods, for the use of the navy, under the Queen's
sign-manual of the 7th of May.

In the following year (1852) there were two grants of land for
educational and ecclesiastical purposes; one piece was for the site of a
school at the Hawthorns, and the other for a parsonage attached to the
new church at Lydbrook, which was consecrated on the previous 4th of
December by Dr. Ollivant, Lord Bishop of Llandaff, acting for Dr. Monk,
who was unable to attend.

During the months of April and June of this year the Right Hon. T. F.
Kennedy, who, in October, 1851, had been appointed Chief Commissioner,
visited the Forest of Dean, and was much struck with its fine character
and great capabilities.  Impressed with the conviction that it might be
brought to yield a larger return to the Crown, he sought the advice of
Mr. Brown, well known in Scotland as a surveyor of woods, who inspected
the several plantations, and suggested that every encouragement should be
given to the extension of railways through the Forest, and also
recommended the erection of circular sawing power, for the purpose of
reducing the timber to a portable size and shape for naval purposes, by
which its value would be much increased, and the expense of carriage
reduced.  He likewise advised that the plan hitherto pursued of stripping
the bark from the young oaks, standing, should be discontinued, and that
the bark should be removed after the trees were felled, as being more
convenient, and favourable to the durability of the wood, and likewise as
affording the earliest opportunity to the adjoining trees to shoot out
into the vacant spaces.  He also thought that the bark was better cured
on stages raising it above the ground, than merely by setting it upon an
end; and he suggested more frequent and moderate thinnings of the
plantations, which for the sake of uniformity should be marked by the
same person, thinning more on the productive soils than elsewhere.  Mr.
Brown considered, moreover, that fewer woodmen and keepers might suffice.

Accordingly the bark was this autumn dried on stages, and the number of
keepers was reduced to three.  The whole of the timber in Russell's
Enclosure was felled, and the trees at Howler's Slade, Church Hill, Park
End, and on the side of the road to Blakeney were marked for being so,
with the exception of any very large or picturesque ones.  At this time
also the Lydbrook Deep Level Colliery, and the East Dean Deep Colliery,
were awarded; and at the close of the year Mr. Machen resigned his office
of Deputy-Gaveller, which was next held by Mr. Warington Smith.

In the spring of 1853 all the timber on Church Hill, at Howler's Slade,
and between the Blakeney Roads was cut down, forming what is now usually
called "the great fall."  The mode of management in the Forest was now
rapidly changing, and Mr. Machen, the Deputy-Surveyor, decided this year
to resign, after a service of well nigh half a century.  He was succeeded
by Mr. Brown.  The flittern bark of this season was dried on stages,
having been taken off the young oaks after they had been felled; but the
process was not found to answer.

The Hagloe estate, situated between the Forest and the river Severn, was
this year purchased by Government on account of its securing the best
site for railway communication with the South Wales line, as well as for
shipping timber, the river in that part being particularly favourable for
the purpose.  The formation of three distinct tramways was now also
licensed, one from near Milkwall down to the Severn and Wye line, another
from Speculation Colliery to the same point, and a third from the
Ruerdean Woodside Colliery to East Slade.

In the next year (1854) a select Committee of the House of Commons sat
during the month of June, under the presidency of Mr. Henry Drummond, to
collect information respecting "the management and condition of the Crown
Forests."  So far as related to the Forest of Dean, the inquiry seems to
have arisen from its being supposed that the timber therein, of which
7,800 loads had been felled during the two previous years, might have
been sold at higher prices, and that the mode of stripping and drying the
bark was defective.  Yet it appeared in evidence that the price of the
timber was about the same as such timber usually fetched in the
neighbourhood, and that, upon the whole, the method of removing the bark
from the trees whilst standing, and then setting it upright to dry, was
as good as that of first felling the tree, and then stripping it and
drying the bark on stages.  Moreover, the portable steam saw, which had
been sent to the Forest with the design of cutting the timber, as
recommended by Mr. Brown, was found to be too small for the purpose,
although it was as large as could be conveniently moved from place to
place, and hence it proved of little or no use.

The Lords of the Treasury, desirous to satisfy the public and the
legislature as to the state of Dean Forest in common with the other Crown
Forests, directed Messrs. J. Matthews, William Murton, and W. Menzies to
make a personal examination of them, and to report their opinion thereon.
This they accordingly did in considerable detail.  With regard to Dean
Forest they say--"The enclosures were originally planted with extreme
care, their situations judiciously chosen, the land well prepared, and
the plants protected with nurses."  "Viewing these plantations as a
whole," they say, "we feel quite justified in representing to your
Lordships that not only is their state such as to merit approval, but
having reference to their regularity, growth, and prospective ultimate
development, they are not surpassed by any Forest property in the
kingdom."

Whilst the condition of the Forest of Dean was being thus canvassed, its
management had been entrusted to Mr. Brown; but after a few months he was
removed, and at the particular request of Government he was succeeded by
Mr. Machen, until a permanent arrangement should be made, which was not,
however, before the 11th of November, when the office was conferred on
Sir James Campbell, Bart., heretofore Deputy-Surveyor of Bere and
Parkhurst Forests, and now selected for the ability he had shown in their
management.  The Treasury Letter announcing his appointment also states
that "after the satisfactory opinion conveyed in the Report of Messrs.
Matthews, Menzies, and Murton regarding the system of management
heretofore followed in this Forest, the time has come when Mr. Machen may
be honourably relieved from the charge which he so long ably fulfilled,
and which he resumed at the request of this Board."

During this year (1854) no less than 4,982 acres 1 rood 20 poles of
plantation were thrown open, comprising the enclosures of Haywood, Edge
Hills, Ruerdean Hill, and Aston Bridge.  The following licences were
likewise granted:--To the Messrs. Kingsford for constructing a length of
tramway connecting the Woodside Colliery with a terminus to be formed at
Church-way; to Messrs. Allaway for making a tramroad from the Plumphill
to their iron-mine at Wigpool; to Messrs. Davis, Cooper, and Roberts to
open a brickyard, and to sink additional iron-pits at Cinderford,
Clearwell, and Lamb's Quay.

In 1855 information was sought to be procured as to the expediency of
removing the dead wood from growing oak-trees.  The practice hitherto had
been not to do so, a course of which a large number of timber merchants,
whose known experience justified their being consulted, expressed their
unanimous approval, declaring it far better to leave its removal to
nature.  Another interesting investigation was now also instituted,
relative to the suitableness of the Deodara pine as a Forest tree.
Upwards of 120,000 plants had been raised from seed, supplied by the East
India Company, in four private nurseries, half of which were distributed
in Dean Forest and the New and Delamere Forests; but it is yet too early
to afford any definite results.  The young plants, however, appear to be
particularly susceptible to frost.

On the 31st of March in this year the Hon. James Kenneth Howard was
appointed one of the Chief Commissioners to administer the affairs of the
Royal Forests, the Hon. Charles Gore having for some time, after Mr.
Kennedy's retirement, been the sole Commissioner.

Three additional coal-mines, called Richard White's Colliery, Hollow
Meadow ditto, and Ruardean ditto, besides an iron-mine, called Maxwell
and Brooklyn Mine, were now granted, besides six stone-quarries and
another brickyard.  Licence was also granted to Messrs. Crawshay to
connect their extensive colliery at Light Moore with the main line of
railway near Cinderford, on the broad gauge principle, besides four other
licences to connect various other works with the chief lines of traffic
by short lengths of tramway.

It may be here remarked, that two years previously an inspector was
appointed to view the timber intended to be felled for the navy before
its being cut, and the following table exhibits the proportion of timber
received at the Dockyard before and since the adoption of such a plan,
showing its great utility:--


DEAN FOREST.                        HIGH MEADOW.
1851              48 per cent.      1851              22 per cent.
1852              44  ,,            1852              31  ,,
1853              30  ,,            1853              no fall.
1854              no fall           1854                ,,
1855              65 per cent.      1855              92 per cent.


On Tuesday, the 22nd of January, 1856, an important meeting took place at
the Speech-house, Sir J. Campbell taking the chair, assisted by the Rev.
H. W. Bellairs, Her Majesty's Inspector of Schools, with the object of
attempting to raise the standard of teaching in the schools of the
district, eighteen in number, the Crown contributing to the support of
each of them.  The meeting was largely attended, especially by the
neighbouring clergy, and resulted in a period of five years being allowed
to the managers of such schools to secure the services of certificated or
registered teachers, and to adopt a scale of payments by the children,
graduated according to the rental or rateable value of the tenements
occupied by their parents.  The formation of a central school, adapted
for educating youths for filling responsible situations in the iron and
coal works of the Forest, was likewise recommended, and is obviously
desirable.  Changes were also now made, with a view to economy, in the
staff of woodmen and labourers on the Forest, whereby an annual saving,
both immediate and prospective, would be obtained.

With the exception of a few decayed timber trees being felled in the
course of the following year (1857), there is nothing requiring further
notice, and I therefore here close the historical account of the Forest,
and shall proceed in the following chapters with the other objects of
inquiry which have been indicated.




CHAPTER IX.
THE ORIGINAL OCCUPIERS OF THE FOREST.


The inhabitants of the Forest--Its Aborigines--Celtic indications in the
names of persons and places--The forty-eight free miners' names appended
to their book of "Dennis," contrasted with the present roll of free
miners--Traces of Saxon and Norman influence--Early civilization
indicated in the methodical character of their mine laws, and in miners
being summoned to several sieges, qualified by their acts of
plunder--Successive notices of the inhabitants during the last 150 years,
with their present improved condition--Kitty Drew, the Forest
poetess--Mining usages described--Order for pit timber--Miners' Court and
Jury--Richard Morse's poem--Intelligence of the present race--Their
superstitions, self-importance, defects of
character--Occupations--Domestic
animals--Beverage--Dress--Dwellings--Diversions--Dialect--Christian
names--Former distribution of population--Present numbers.

The heading of this chapter refers to one of the most interesting
circumstances connected with the Forest of Dean, namely, the origin,
character, customs, and early condition of its people.

The original occupiers of this part of the kingdom, according to Richard
of Cirencester, a writer of the 14th century, were the Silures, an
offshoot of the immense Celtic family by which the middle and western
parts of Europe were overspread.  The numerous remains left in the
district by the Romans indicate that there had been considerable
intercourse between them and the inhabitants; but the chief influences of
which any traces are left appear to have descended from the Welsh, with
whom the foresters of the present day still seem closely to assimilate.
Hence their somewhat impulsive temperament, and the occurrence of Celtic
or Silurian names, such as the following, indicative of the character of
the places they designate:--

Dean  _i.e._ Woodland.
Lidney  ,,  Broadwater.
Awre  ,,  yellowish.
Bicknor  ,,  above the river.
Lydbrook  ,,  a river's shore.
Penyard  ,,  the hill-top, &c.

There are also many families bearing the Welsh names of Williams, Morgan,
Pritchard, Watkins, Roberts, Gwilliam, Hughes, Jenkins, Griffiths,
Lewellyn, &c.  The list of the forty-eight free miners constituting the
jury who signed the Book of Mine Laws some 400 years ago, containing so
few of those which are now most common in the neighbourhood, indicates a
considerable change as having taken place in the population; they may be
thus classed:

_Not now to be found on the roll of free miners_--Garone, Clarke, Wytt,
Nortone, Mitchell, Lumbart, Ocle, Barton, Heynes, Arminger, Rogers,
Hathen, Miller, Croudfell, Dull, Loofe, Forthey, Walker, Tinker, Witch,
Delewger, Doles, Hinde, Tellow, Backstar, Lawrence, Dolet, Caloe, Holt;
in place of which names the following now occur--Baldwin, Cook, Dobbs,
Hale, Jenkins, Kear, Morgan, Philipps, Harper, Davis, Meek, Brain, Jones,
Jordan, Robins, Rudge, James, Milnes, Marfell, Chivers, &c.  The names of
Hathway, Skin, Baker, Holder, and Warr still appear in the Forest,
although they no longer occur on the rolls of free miners.

_Yet to be found on the rolls_--Preeste, Smith, Addis, Burt, Hopkine,
Tyler, Roberts, Parsons.

Similar traces of Saxon or Norman influence appear in the words Staunton,
Newnham, Newland, Ayleford, Coleford, &c.; those of a Norman stamp being
apparent in St. Briavel's, Ruerdean (_i.e._ riviere Dean), Lea, Coverham
(Covert), &c., or in the family names of Baldwin, Waldwin, Chivers, &c.
To which may be added the circumstance that in most of the ancient
churches adjoining the Forest there are portions of Early Norman, viz.,
Newnham, Staunton, English Bicknor, Ruerdean, Woolaston, St. Briavel's,
&c.

Assuming that "the customs and franchises" of the miners of the Forest
were first granted to the inhabitants by William I., they certainly show,
for that early period, a highly creditable appreciation of justice,
order, and right feeling.  Their skill in the use of the bow, and in
excavating the soil, is proved by the attendance demanded of them at
various sieges during the first half of the 14th century; but their
outrageous interruption of vessels navigating the Severn in the reign of
Henry VI., and in one instance even so late as in that of George III.,
illustrates the common truth that "every field has its tares."  Probably
the troubles of the Great Rebellion would have little affected them, had
they been left to themselves, their warmth of feeling being chiefly
manifested when they apprehended danger to their "customs and
franchises:"--hence Dr. Parsons's character of them:--"The inhabitants
are some of them a sort of robustic wild people, that must be civilized
by good discipline and government."  Such was no doubt their state and
condition 150 years ago.  In 1808 they were described as "not very
orderly;" in 1810 as being in a condition "nearly as wretched as anything
now existing in Ireland," and as "exceedingly excitable," prone to make
unlimited demands in opening and carrying on their works, destroying the
timber for such purposes, so as ultimately to leave hardly a tithe for
the supply of the Royal dockyards, perpetually at strife amongst
themselves, so jealous of any "foreigners" coming into the Forest as to
deter most persons, and highly suspicious of any efforts to improve the
property of the Crown, even when intended for their personal good,
repeatedly destroying the new plantations, and terrifying the adjoining
districts by forming riotous mobs.  Yet the Chartists from Newport and
places adjacent, in 1840, met with no sympathy from the Foresters, who
drove their delegates away.

Happily for all parties these evils have almost entirely disappeared,
through the good success which Providence has vouchsafed to the late
judicious laws for regulating the mines, settling the relief of the poor,
and establishing churches and schools in every part of the Forest.  The
former state of things was in fact the effect of the exclusive and
protective rights, with corresponding usages, of which the well-meaning
but short-sighted inhabitants thought so much; and hence their Magna
Charta, as they were wont to call their book of "Dennis," was rather a
mischief than a benefit.  Their general feelings are characteristically
described in the following lines from the pen of worthy Kitty Drew, the
self-taught Forest poetess, in her poem on the Forest of Dean, dated
1835:--

    "In days of old 'twas here and there a cot,
    Of architecture they'd little knowledge got;
    None but a few free miners then lived here,
    Who thought no harm to catch a good fat deer,
    Or steal an oak--it was their chief delight.
    Old foresters, I'm told, did think 'twas right
    To steal an oak, and bear it clean away;
    But caught, the jail a twelvemonth and a day
    It was their doom, or else must pay a fine,
    The which to do they did not much incline.

                                  * * * * *

    "But noble miners there have been, I ken,
    By their old works, stout, able-bodied men;
    They'd not the knowledge then that now they've got,
    To work by steam--hand-labour was their lot.
    But I am told that many ages back
    A foreign army did our land invade,
    And blood and carnage then was all the trade;
    They pitched their tents, and then without delay
    They waited anxious for the bloody fray;
    But our bold miners underneath did get,
    And many a ton of powder there did set;
    So up they blew the unsuspecting foe,
    Their shattered limbs came rattling down below.
    Our land thus cleared, our liberty thus saved,
    Our noble miners dug the caitiffs' grave.
    The King with honour did them so regard,
    Made them free miners as a just reward;
    The Forest Charter to them granted was,
    And firm and sure were made the Forest laws.
    In former times they gloried in the name,
    But now the foreigners have got the game.

                                  * * * * *

    "The Forest now is numerous got of late,
    Since moneyed men come here to speculate
    Where once a little turfen hut did stand,
    You'll see a noble house and piece of land.
    Deeper the pits than any here before,
    The lowest vein of coal for to explore.
    They were but shallow pits in days of old,
    They'd not the knowledge then, as I am told;
    But though there was not then great learning's store,
    It was much better for the labouring poor;
    Men loved their masters--masters loved their men,
    But those good times we ne'er shall see again."

A mining population is generally found to have peculiar customs and
privileges of its own, and such is more especially the case with the free
miners of the Forest of Dean, who have had hitherto their own Court of
Justice, with the exclusive occupation of the district, and the sole
control of its mineral wealth.  Their claims are thus specified by the
Dean Forest Commissioners:--"Every free miner duly qualified by birth
from a free father in the hundred of St. Briavel's and abiding therein,
having worked in the mines a year and a day, claims the right to demand
of the King's gaveller a 'gale,' that is a spot of ground chosen by
himself for sinking a mine, and this, provided it does not interfere with
the works of any other mine, the gaveller considers himself obliged to
give, receiving a fee of five shillings, and inserting the name of the
free miner in the gale-book.  The gaveller goes to the spot selected with
the free miner making the application, and gives him possession with the
following ceremonies:--The gaveller cuts a stick, and, asking the party
how many verns or partners he has, cuts a notch for every partner, and
one for the King.  A turf is then cut, and the stick forked down by two
other sticks, the turf put over it, and the party galing the work is then
considered to be put in full possession.  The free miner, having thus
obtained possession, is compelled to proceed with the work by working one
day in the following year and day, and a day in each subsequent year and
day (forfeiting the gale if he fails so to work), and to pay an annual
sum of two guineas to the gaveller for each vein of coal he intends to
work, till he gets at the coal, after which he agrees with him for the
amount of the composition to be paid to the King in lieu of his fifth,
which, in case of their not agreeing, must be taken in kind by the King's
putting in a fifth man.  The right to the gale is considered by the free
miner to carry with it that of timber for the use of the works; this
seems to extend no farther than to the offal and soft wood; and the mode
of obtaining it is for the miner to apply to the keeper of the walk in
which his mine is situated for an order, which he takes to the clerk of
the Swainmote Court, who, on receiving a fee of one shilling, as a matter
of course gives him another order directed to the keeper of the walk in
which there is timber fit for the purpose," in the following form:--

    _Copy of a Warrant or Order for the Delivery of Timber to a Coal
    Miner in Dean Forest_.

    "[Forest of Dean.]  At the Court of Attachments, holden at the Speech
    House, the 25th day of Sep. 1784, came Phil. Hatton, and demanded
    Timber for himself and Verns, for the Use of their Coal Works called
    Young Colliers, in Ruerdean Walk, within the said Forest.

                                                  "JNO. MATTHEWS, Steward.

    "To Mr. John Bradley, Keeper of the said Walk.
                                               (by Certificate.)

    "Some Timber to be delivered fit for sinking.
                Indorsed '4 Oaks.'

"The miner cuts the timber when assigned, and until within about the last
ten years paid a fee of two shillings to the keeper, there being no limit
to the amount of timber if applied for the use of the works.  If the
gale-ground was situated within the hundred of St. Briavel's, but
belonged to private parties, the free miner still claimed his right to
open the ground, the proprietor being let in as a partner, making a
sixth, the only exception being churchyards, gardens, orchards, and Crown
plantations."

A jury of twelve, twenty-four, forty-eight, or seventy free miners, under
the auspices of the Constable of St. Briavel's Castle, or his deputy,
enacted such mine laws as the interests of the body seemed to require,
administering them without any appeal, or permission to resort to another
court of law.  The witnesses in giving evidence wore their caps to show
that they were free miners, and took the usual oath, touching the Book of
the Four Gospels with a stick of holly, {149a} so as not to soil the
Sacred Volume with their miry hands.  These singular usages explain the
observation of the Rev. H. Berkin that "the inhabitants are completely
_sui generis_," and "their exact situation can scarcely be understood
except by those on the spot," as likewise the sentiment which the Rev. H.
C. H. Hawkins expresses--"by altering the character of the Foresters, a
curious relic of antiquity might be destroyed, to my regret I must own,
as I feel desirous to preserve so singular a specimen in all its purity."

In the year 1832 the Rev. C. Crawley stated, "I think the moral character
of the inhabitants has been much improved by the building of churches;
heinous offences are very rare in the Forest:" and in 1849 Mr. Machen
said, "A great change has been wrought in them; there is a very great
difference in their habits now, certainly." {149b}

The Forest miners of the present day are well acquainted with the
geological structure of their neighbourhood, more especially with the
out-crop, succession, and dip of the mineral veins.  In short, their
natural endowments are fully equal to the general standard, and only
require cultivation, as frequently appears from the quickness with which
they detect the bearings of any pecuniary transaction, and their
proneness to litigation.  Many superstitions, however, still linger
amongst them, such as the use of charms and incantations, a belief in
witchcraft and an evil eye, a resort to "wise men," and even to the
minister of the parish as being a "Master of Arts," or for some of the
offertory money, out of which to have a charm-ring made.  They are
likewise inclined to give credence to tales of apparitions, and to regard
sickness and accident as fated and inevitable.  From their having been
for so many generations an isolated and peculiar people, most of them are
ignorant of the rest of the world, and have of course a correspondingly
exaggerated idea of their own importance.  It is pleasing to observe the
sympathy they manifest towards the sick amongst them, or such as have
been accidentally injured; and although most independent in their
notions, and impatient of control, they seem always thankful for real
kindness.  What they chiefly lack is more generosity and candour towards
strangers, and a clearer understanding of their duties as protectors of
the national property, in respect of the crops of timber which grow
around them. {151}  In most mining districts the moral habits of the
people are more or less in a low state, and they are certainly not worse
here than elsewhere.  One source of evil arises from the large ablutions
which their working underground necessitates.  The process of washing on
their return from the pit is not performed as privately as it might be,
and the effect of this upon the moral perceptions of the people, huddled
together in their small cottages, is very injurious.  It is a pity some
arrangement is not made for having washhouses at the pits, where a supply
of hot water from the boilers might be easily obtained for the purpose.

One half of the Forest population is understood to be employed at the
coal-works, a fourth part at those of iron, whose red dresses make them
easily known, and the remaining portion are employed in the quarries and
woods, &c.

Horses of a bad breed, donkeys, mules, cattle, sheep, pigs, and geese
abound, owing to the free pasture afforded by the open Forest, the three
former having been used for many generations in carrying iron-mine, coal,
charcoal, &c.  Farming operations are necessarily very limited.  Cider
obtained from the styre apple used to be a common beverage; but that
fruit has long been extinct, and malt-liquor is now mostly preferred.
Gardening is little attended to, the colliers generally feeling
indisposed to further exertion after returning from the pit.  In few
instances only are bees kept.  Formerly much of the wearing apparel was
made from home-spun wool, woven or knitted in the neighbourhood; but this
is not now the practice.

The turf-covered cabin, resting on four dry walls, without windows, and
pierced only by a low door, with a very rude fireplace and chimney in
"the pine end," and partially paved with rough stones, once the
habitation of the Forest "cabiner," is now almost entirely superseded by
two-floored cottages, often containing not less than four apartments.  In
bygone days a few neighbours, taking advantage of a moonlight night,
accomplished the erection of a cabin ere the morning dawned, in which
case it was supposed that the keepers had no power to pull it down.  To
show the eagerness with which poor families sought to establish
themselves in the Forest, it may be mentioned that they took possession
of the ancient mine-caves, walling up the back and front, leaving a vent
for the smoke in the former, and in the latter a gap as an entrance.

Their pastimes used to be dancing and foot-ball, to the great delight of
people of all ages: indeed there are several spots yet called from the
above circumstance "the dancing green."  Wakes were likewise very
popular, and also the game of fives, so that at Ruerdean one side of the
church tower was whitewashed for the purpose, and resorted to even on
Sundays.  Some of the provincialisms of the district occur in the
following words--"yat" (gate), "tump" (hillock), "teart" (sharp),
"spract" (lively), "twich" (touch), "near a anoust" (near the same),
"anunt" (opposite).

Peculiarities also occur in the selection of Christian names, including
these--Benedicta, Abia, Winifred, Kezia, Barzillai, Sibylla, Eve, Saba,
Sabina, Beata, Tryphena, Belinda, Myra, Terzah, Nimrod, River, Milson,
Miles, &c. {152}

On account of the dense woods with which the Forest was anciently
covered, added to the fact that except at Newland, and perhaps at Park
End, no churches were built within it, we may conclude that at an early
period its population was small, the persons engaged in the iron and coal
works then living, as many of the working people do now, in the adjoining
parishes.  Our earliest information as to the number of inhabitants
residing within its present limits relates to the time of the
Commonwealth, when "400 cabins of beggarly people living upon the waste,
and destroying the wood and timber, were thrown down."  In 1712 Sir R.
Atkins states that "there had been many cottages in it, but that they had
been lately pulled down, leaving only the six keepers' houses."  He gives
6,090 as the total population of the outlying parishes, thus
distributed:--


Mitcheldean                                   600
Little Dean                                   620
Newnham                                       400
Blakeney                                      250
Lydney                                        700
Newland                                       800
Clearwell                                     600
Coleford                                      600
Bream                                         300
Le Bailey                                     200
Staunton                                      220
Ruerdean                                      500
Bicknor                                       300
                                            -----
                             Total          6,090


At the close of the century, the Forest, as now bounded, comprised 589
houses, which in 1803 had increased to 696, the number of free miners
being then 662.  Since that time the inhabitants of the Forest have gone
on increasing as follows:--

In 1821 they were  5,525
In 1831  ,,  7,014
In 1841  ,,  10,674
In 1851  ,,  13,252

of whom about 1,789 have the right of voting for Members of Parliament.
The annual value of property existing in the Forest, not belonging to the
Crown, was estimated in 1849 at 13,603 pounds 14s. 2d., and in 1856 at
18,492 pounds 17s. 7d.




CHAPTER X.


    Churches and schools--Religious provisions before the
    Reformation--Rev. P. M. Procter, Vicar of Newland, lectures in Thomas
    Morgan's cottage--The erection of a place for worship proposed--Rev.
    H. Berkin opens a Sunday-school--Mr. Procter uses his chapel
    schoolroom--Mr. Berkin lectures in the Foresters' cottages--Builds
    Holy Trinity Church (1817)--His assiduous labours and death in
    1847--Christ Church, Berry Hill--Mr. Procter's death--His
    successors--Rev. H. Poole builds St. Paul's, Park End, and
    schoolrooms--Rev. J. J. Ebsworth--St. John's, Cinderford, consecrated
    1844--Lydbrook Church consecrated 1851--Government aid to the
    churches and schools.

Previous to the Reformation, care seems to have been taken to provide the
population of the Forest with the means of religious worship.  The border
churches of Mitcheldean and Newland were far larger than the people
residing in their immediate neighbourhood required; and there were
others, of which the memorials only remain in the names of "Chapel Hill"
and "Church Hill," the former in the parish of English Bicknor, and the
latter at Park End.  This last was connected apparently with Ruerdean, if
we may judge from the "Churchway" which ran in that direction and gave
the name to an adjacent colliery.  The "Laws and Customes" of the free
miners, dating as far back certainly as the year 1300, show that the
services of the Church were then generally known--the King's Gaveller
being therein directed to visit the mine "between Mattens and Masse," and
the miner was to "swear by his faith."  For 200 years after the
Reformation no further provision was made, indeed none was apparently
required, as the Forest had been more than once nearly depopulated during
that period, and was said to be almost without inhabitants in 1712.

In common with many other mineral districts, especially those in the
West, the Rev. John Wesley established a connection with our Forest
miners.  He visited Coleford as early as 1756, and did so again in 1763;
and his Journal thus records these visits:--"Monday, 15th March,
1756.--We reached Coleford before seven, and found a plain loving people,
who received the word of God with all gladness.  Tuesday,
16th.--Examining the little society, I found them grievously harassed by
disputations.  Anabaptists were on one side, and Quakers on the other;
and hereby five or six persons have been confused.  But the rest cleave
so much the closer together.  Nor does it appear that there is now one
trifler, much less a disorderly walker, among them."  Wednesday, 17th
(August, 1763).--"Hence we rode to Coleford.  The wind being high, I
consented to preach in their new room; but large as it was, it would not
contain the people, who appeared to be not a little affected, of which
they gave a sufficient proof by filling the room at five in the morning."

It appears, also, as stated in the interesting MS. of worthy Mr. Horlich,
an Independent Minister, that in the year 1783 "one Mr. Stiff
occasionally, on the Lord's Day, went to some sequestered spot in the
Forest, where himself and some of his family took their station under the
extended branches of one of the trees, for the purpose of reading the
Word of God."

But no sustained effort to impart religious instruction to the
inhabitants of the Forest was made until 1803, when the Rev. P. M.
Procter became Vicar of Newland, to which parish the Foresters were
always considered to belong.  "At this time," he says, in his 'Brief and
Authentic Statement,' published in 1819, "I saw nothing of them on the
Sabbath-day.  The church was only used by them as a matter of course and
necessity: indeed, a general opinion prevailed that they had no right to
accommodation, and a Forester was seldom seen in the aisle.  The first
impression I received respecting the inhabitants was of the most
unfavourable kind.  For some months no other intercourse took place than
what the visiting of the sick and the baptizing of the children
occasioned.  By these means, however, I came to the knowledge of their
condition, their lives and conversation, of which the latter were the
most deplorable--habitual profanation of the Sabbath-day, drunkenness,
rioting, immodest dancing, revellings, fightings, an improper state of
females on their marriage, and an absence and ignorance of the Holy
Scriptures."

Mr. Procter then goes on to relate how he was brought to attempt their
improvement.--"After a few months' residence I was invited to take the
afternoon duty of the chapel at Coleford.  Curiosity brought some of the
colliers to hear, and the report they carried home with them induced
others to come and judge for themselves.  We passed on very quietly for a
little time, when a collier, named Thomas Morgan, sent to request that I
would call upon him.  I did so.  After the accustomed salutations were
passed, he assigned certain impressive reasons for wishing to see me,
and, in stating them, his eyes, his voice, and humble gesture strongly
marked the agitated feelings of his soul.  After an interesting
conversation of two hours, I promised, at his request, to call upon him
again the following week.  On taking my leave he said, 'I hope your
honour will not be offended, but some of my relations and neighbours are
in the same ignorant state as myself; they would be happy to hear your
conversation, and with permission I will ask one or two to come.'  Under
the impression of a private conversation with six or eight people, I went
to the cottage at the time appointed.  Upon laying my hand on the latch
of the door, the opening of it was prevented--the resistance proceeded
from the number of people collected within.  A profound silence
prevailed.  The collier smiled and looked for a pardon.  Astonished at
this unexpected scene, not being accustomed and perfectly unprepared to
address such an assemblage, I felt for some moments at a loss how to
proceed.  But there was no time for hesitation; taking the Bible, the
61st of Isaiah was the chapter read and commented upon.  The attention
with which the poor heard, the very humble manner in which they returned
thanks, and the earnest hope they expressed that I would come again, made
a deep impression in their favour.  Under these circumstances I was led,
as it were, unintentionally to the commencement of those lectures which
continue to the present time (1819).  The first effects of these lectures
were seen in the observance of the sacred duties of the Sabbath-day; our
congregations at Newland increased, and the aisles of the church became
occupied, in which the Foresters were now seen.  Year after year passed
away, the Thursday evening lectures continued to be well attended, the
moral habits of the people improved, and a knowledge of the Scriptures
obtained.  Religion had evidently taken root; much was effected, but
infinitely more remained to be done.  The means only were wanting--the
opportunity was present.  _Could we raise a building to contain about 200
people_?  Such were our limited views at that time."

In 1807 a memorial was drawn up and signed by some hundreds of miners and
colliers, praying the officers of the Crown to grant a portion of land on
which to erect a lecture-room, and also timber for building it.  Dr.
Huntingford, the Bishop of Gloucester, presented the petition to
Government; but the law officers of the Crown, Sir S. Romilly and Sir A.
Piggott, found that it could not be carried into effect without an Act of
the Legislature.  Under Mr. Perceval's administration, Mr. Procter
renewed the attempt by a personal interview with that minister, who,
whilst expressing his deep regret that he could not officially assist,
suggested an appeal to the public, to which he would give his name and
support, as well as an application to the National Society about to be
formed.  To him, in fact, is due the insertion at this juncture of the
clause in the Act of 52nd George III., chap. 161, sec. 27, to enable the
Commissioners of the Treasury to appropriate small portions of land, not
exceeding five acres, for ecclesiastical purposes, and which has
facilitated the erection of the Forest churches.

Closely resembling the above efforts were those made on the north-east
side of the Forest by the Rev. H. Berkin, which he commenced about the
year 1809, when curate of Mitcheldean.  He writes--"Finding the miners
and colliers of the Forest, adjoining that parish, too generally living
in the neglect of moral and religious duties, I considered it a duty to
attempt their improvement."  In January, 1812, he opened a school-room in
Mitcheldean, which he had built mainly at his own expense, although he
was afterwards assisted by his private friends, and in particular by a
liberal donation from the Duke of Beaufort, and eventually by a grant of
50 pounds from the National Society, 100 pounds being given at the same
time to Mr. Procter's building-fund--these were the very first donations
to country schools made by that estimable institution.  Mr. Berkin's
school was at once attended by 140 scholars, and ultimately 350 came.  In
the first Report of the National Society it is stated that "many of the
parents expressed their acknowledgments to Mr. Berkin with the tears in
their eyes, exerting themselves to the utmost to enable their children to
be constant in their attendance, in spite of the numerous difficulties
with which they had to struggle--such as the distance of the schools, the
wretched state of the roads in bad weather, and the extreme poverty of
the people, which makes it a hard matter for them to clothe their
children properly, and to furnish them with a slice of bread for their
dinner."

Returning to Mr. Procter's exertions to erect a building for the two-fold
purpose of divine service and juvenile instruction, he found consolation
for former disappointments in the following pleasing offer of Thomas
Morgan, the poor cottager already mentioned:--"Take my field," said he.
"With that I give you five guineas, to which my neighbours have added 15
pounds.  We ask of you only to begin and build until the money is
expended; in another year we will again add our mites; only lay the
foundation and begin."  Accordingly, in the month of June, 1812, the
building was commenced, and (aided by the subscriptions which were
received, especially from the Duke of Beaufort, the Lord Bishop of
Gloucester, and his secretary, Mr. Ryder) was so constructed as to admit
of its being hereafter enlarged and consecrated.  "On the Epiphany, 6th
January, 1813, the public service of the Established Church was, for the
first time, read within its walls, under the authority of an episcopal
licence; but on the commencement of Sunday duty a painful circumstance
presented itself which had not been anticipated, viz. an astonishing
inattention to the prayers of the Church: all appeared a blank--no
interest, no spiritual concern.  The cause was evident in the want of
prayer-books, soon however supplied by the Society for promoting
Christian Knowledge, and one of the bishops of the Church.  A
schoolmaster, Mr. Edward Hawkins, previously sent to the National School
in Baldwin's Gardens, immediately commenced the education of the
children--300 being entered the first week.  On every Thursday evening
throughout the year the scholars were examined in the presence of a
congregation assembled for public worship--a mode of instruction which
gave a laudable excitement to the children, by means of which they
acquired a firmness of mind, a clear, distinct pronunciation, and an
accuracy in their delivery, which was very gratifying to the hearers,
whilst it gave to the parents and relations an opportunity of observing
their progress by the system of education.  Through this medium, also,
many a truth has been taught, many an impression made, where preaching
had not succeeded."  "By this time," proceeds the same excellent man,
"the principles and motives of my exertions being made apparent, all the
little prejudices were softened down, if not into approval, at least into
a passive silence, particularly as another clergyman, the Rev. H. Berkin,
was zealously pursuing the same line of conduct on the other side of the
Forest, who began this year (1812) to lecture in the cottages there, as
his next attempt to benefit the parents and children connected with his
school."  He says--"Finding that few, by comparison, attended public
worship, I visited them in their cottages to read and explain the Bible;
and I was led to adopt this plan from the particular situation of the
Foresters, destitute of churches or ministers whom they could properly
call their own.  In these pastoral visits, made on different evenings in
different places, and in which I have usually spent two hours in reading
and practically explaining the Holy Scriptures, I have sometimes had 200
persons present at one time, and calculate on the whole that 800 at
different times have thus come under instruction.  Many instances might
be produced, certainly not less than 20 families, of reformation in both
sexes, which had evinced itself in their desire to possess the Bible and
Common Prayer Book, and by a total change in their moral character."

At the commencement of his career Mr. Berkin was repeatedly remonstrated
with by respectable gentlemen who knew the locality better than himself,
upon his venturing amongst the Foresters alone, assuring him that it was
not safe, since, a very short time before he came to Mitcheldean, two
Wesleyan ministers attempted open-air preaching in the Forest, but were
violently attacked and driven away.  He thus proceeds to describe the
circumstances which led to the erection of Holy Trinity Church:--"At one
of the places which I am accustomed to visit, where the heat and crowd
have at times been almost insufferable, the colliers, aided by two or
three neighbouring farmers, offered to build a large room for the better
accommodation of greater numbers.  This, for obvious reasons, was
declined; but it led me earnestly to wish that the Foresters might be
more immediately brought within the pale of the Established Church, and,
by regular attendance on a church appropriated to themselves, be made
habitually acquainted with that admirable Liturgy to which too many of
them are now utter strangers."  Acting upon these earnest feelings, Mr.
Berkin, with the concurrence of the esteemed Dr. Ryder, the Bishop of
Gloucester, laid a memorial and plan before Government, with an offer, on
his part, that, "if the needful fund for building a church and
parsonage-house could be provided, he would give up his present curacy
and serve the new church without any further emolument than the endowment
necessary for its consecration."  In the concluding terms of an admirable
address to the public, dated the 30th April, 1816, which he circulated
with the design of obtaining contributions to the work, he stated--"My
wishes are, that the kind contributors will feel rewarded in the
reflection that thousands yet unborn may have cause to bless them for
thus providing for their spiritual wants, and giving them the knowledge
of those principles which alone can make them worthy members of society
here, or lead them to provide well for their eternal welfare hereafter."

The Crown granted five acres of land for the purpose on Harry Hill, being
a spot situated within a reasonable distance of from 250 to 300 cottages.
To the estimated cost of 2,500 pounds, contributions, amounting in some
cases to 30 pounds each, were given by the Earl of Liverpool, Right Hon.
N. Vansittart, the Duke and Duchess of Beaufort, Sir Thomas Baring, Lord
Calthorpe, Joshua Watson, Esq., Rev. H. H. Norris, W. Wilberforce, Esq.,
M.P., Rev. J. Pratt, &c.  The building of the church (the design of which
comprised a chancel 15 feet square, a tower about 60 feet high, and a
body or nave 40 feet by 60 feet, calculated to hold from 400 to 500
adults, and a large children's gallery, for whom a school-room 30 feet by
50 feet was also to be built close adjoining) was begun on the 4th of
June, 1816, and was used for the first time upon the 2nd of February
following, on which occasion the sermon was preached by the Rev. Edward
Bickersteth, from St. Matt. iv. 16.  It was consecrated, as the Church of
the Holy Trinity, by Bishop Ryder, on the 26th June, 1817, who preached a
sermon, not yet forgotten, upon 1 Kings viii. 30; and the whole property
of the living was vested in the Lord Bishop of Gloucester, Lord
Calthorpe, and the Right Hon. Nicholas Vansittart, Rev. J. Kempthorne and
Rev. Charles Bryan, as trustees.

Although Mr. Berkin had thus accomplished the important object of
providing the inhabitants of the north-east portion of the Forest with "a
church which they could call their own," he felt that it yet remained for
him to make the building really useful to the people by imparting to them
more and more just views of the Christian life.  Accordingly he laboured
if possible more abundantly than ever amongst them, visiting their houses
at short intervals, collecting neighbours together, and expounding the
Holy Scripture to them under their own roofs, or else opening the church
so as to draw them off from the corrupting pastimes which were common at
certain times of the year, and bestowing much pains on his Sunday school.

          [Picture: Holy Trinity Church and Schools, Harry Hill]

Sometimes, when necessitated to take relaxation, and to go from home for
a few weeks, he improved the time by acting as a deputation for the
Church Missionary or Bible Societies, and even now his name is remembered
in distant parishes.  The Missionary Association for which he acted as
secretary, and which was called the North-east Forest of Dean Branch,
sometimes contributed 220 pounds a year to the cause, or a total of 3,300
pounds.  The appliances, now so generally known, for interesting the
young were even then in actual operation in his own school, and effected
their purpose well.  His monitors and sub-teachers were carefully guided
by him; and no doubt with the design of duly impressing its importance
upon his scholars, holy baptism in accordance with the rubric was always
administered during divine service, after the second lesson, and this
took place most Sundays, as the register shows.

Few clergymen took more pains than Mr. Berkin with the communicants of
the church, who were always visited before the communion day, and who
generally presented themselves to the number of about seventy.  On two
occasions valuable livings were offered to him; but, said he, "since my
ministerial work began in this neighbourhood, here it shall end," as it
accordingly did, after forty years of labour, on the 11th October, 1847.
He was buried in his own churchyard, being followed to the grave by his
sorrowing people, and worthily committed to the tomb by the Rev. James
Davies, of Abbenhall.  His funeral sermon was preached by the Rev. H.
Poole, who took for his text 2 Tim. iv. 6-8. {163}

A rapidly increasing population, and unfortunately not a concentrating
one, compelled Mr. Berkin's successor (the writer of this work) to meet
its wants by erecting chapel school-rooms, for the accommodation of sixty
scholars each, in the hamlets of Woodside and the Hawthorns, the former
having been in use since 15th September, 1850, and the latter since 31st
December, 1851, to the lasting benefit, he trusts, of many of the rising
generation through the Divine blessing on the conscientious efforts of
their respective teachers.  It was by such a method that Mr. Berkin
acted, when, in the year 1822, he caused a chapel school-room to be built
at Lydbrook, judging that place to be sufficiently populous and distant
from the nearest church to justify such an erection, not as being a full
provision for it, but hoping that eventually a church might be built
there, which has now been satisfactorily accomplished.

The following clergymen have successively officiated in the district of
Holy Trinity:--

    _Incumbents_.--H. Berkin, 1817; H. G. Nicholls, 1847.

    _Curates_.--J. Morse, 1820; J. Bridgeman, 1821; J. Herbert, 1822; W.
    Marshall, 1822; W. Burkitt, 1824; J. Chell, 1827; R. T. Budd, 1840;
    W. C. Badger, 1844; J. G. Croker, 1846; G. Tatam, 1848; H. Algar,
    1851; W. Nickisson; W. Duckett; J. Ashton; H. W. Thornton; W. A.
    Whitestone.  Most of these gentlemen served at Lydbrook, although
    occasionally at Holy Trinity Church; they likewise attended the
    Chapel Schoolroom on Little Dean Hill.

The annual number of christenings at Holy Trinity Church is 80; of
weddings, 15; and of funerals, 40.  The morning congregation on Sunday
comprises about 100; that in the afternoon, 350; and the two evening
school-room services, 120.  About 250 scholars attend school weekdays and
Sundays.

Having thus related the progressive efforts made for the welfare of the
people occupying the north-east portion of the Forest, it is necessary
that we return to the date of 1813, being the year in which the Rev. Mr.
Procter opened his chapel school-room on the west.  He tells us that "in
the course of this year the Bishop of Gloucester was pleased to call my
attention to the clause introduced by Mr. Perceval into the Act of 52
George III., cap. 161.  I went up to town, and had the honour of an
interview with the Chancellor of the Exchequer, the Right Honourable N.
Vansittart, who was pleased to advise with the Earl of Liverpool on the
subject, which resulted in a grant of five acres of land, a donation of
100 pounds to the building fund, and an endowment of 20 pounds per annum
to the school."  He proceeds to remark that "the crowded state of the
chapel became a matter of astonishment to the Foresters themselves, and
painfully inconvenient to the congregation, as well as dangerous to the
health of the officiating minister, from the intense heat, besides
excluding the children, all showing the necessity of an enlargement; so
that, after a probationary period of three years, another appeal for aid
came before the public, whereby the building was increased to twice the
size, provided with a children's gallery, and, excepting two pews, kept
perfectly free and open to all.  It now became my duty," observes Mr.
Procter, "to secure to the Foresters in perpetuity these extraordinary
blessings which Divine Providence was progressively granting to them.
This could only be done by consecration, and to authorize such an act, an
endowment being considered necessary, another public appeal was made in
June, 1813, for assistance to place amongst these poor people a clergyman
who would not only publicly preach, but reside, privately visit their
cottages, disseminate the Scriptures, and assist the master of the
National School in impressing upon the minds of the children the
principles of the Christian religion," as, "without a resident clergyman,
an experience of fourteen years convinced him that all efforts would
prove abortive.  It had likewise become necessary to discontinue using
the chapel as a school-room, since the doing so had been found to lessen
the reverence due to the sanctuary in the minds both of the parents and
children.  A new schoolroom was therefore immediately built of the best
stone, with two fireplaces, and a partition in the middle; over the door
is the following inscription,--'The Forest Day School, for Boys and
Girls, on the National plan, established 1812, supported by voluntary
subscriptions.'"  The cost of erection was almost 300 pounds, and the
expenses of conducting the school averaged about 70 pounds per annum, for
two-thirds of which Mr. Procter was himself answerable, and only
dependent on annual donations.

With the view of forming such an endowment for the church as would make
it eligible for consecration, a freehold estate near at hand was
purchased in the month of November, 1816, although the price of it
exceeded the sum subscribed by 200 pounds, but which amount it was
expected the Parliamentary Commissioners would repay.  Thomas Morgan's
house, garden, buildings, and lands adjoining the chapel were also
purchased for nearly 400 pounds, the former being partly preserved in the
back part of the present parsonage-house.  Thus the property appropriated
to the new church consisted at this time of the five acres of Crown land,
the purchased freehold, and Thomas Morgan's property, on which, as an
ecclesiastical endowment, the consecration of the church, under the name
of Christ Church, took place, on Wednesday, 7th July, 1816, by Bishop
Ryder, and was duly conveyed to the following gentlemen as trustees,
viz., the Right Honourable N. Vansittart, Lord Calthorpe, James Jenkins,
George Baring, T. T. Biddulph, Esqrs.; Reverends J. Hensman and E.
Mansfield.

                   [Picture: Christ Church, Berry Hill]

The body of the building forms a parallelogram 50 feet by 42 feet; the
tower, upwards of 60 feet high, was built some years afterwards, at a
cost of 1,000 pounds.  Unfortunately, serious inconvenience ensued to Mr.
Procter by his having caused the whole of the above-named endowment
property to be conveyed to the church previous to its consecration,
since, on presenting the memorial to the Board for the payment of the
accustomed Parliamentary grant, the case was pronounced "irregular,"
rendering Mr. Procter liable to a debt of 950 pounds, although 500 pounds
of the amount was eventually paid by Pyncombe's Charity and Queen Anne's
Board.  The sum of 2,000 pounds was granted, however, by the
Parliamentary Board to be laid out in the purchase of land, yielding in
the mean time an interest of 4 pounds per cent., and raising the total
income of the living to 118 pounds 10s. 6d., or thereabouts.  Mr. Procter
died on the 8th May, 1822, aged 52, worn out by excessive devotion to his
pastoral duties, and was succeeded by the Rev. T. R. Garnsey, who, after
a life of similar usefulness, expired in March, 1847.  His funeral sermon
was preached on Sunday, the 14th of March, by the Rev. H. Poole, from
Hebrews xii. 2.  The church was densely crowded, many could not obtain an
entrance, and all appeared deeply to feel the loss they had sustained.

In the mean time, under the Act of 1842, an addition of 31 pounds 9s. 6d.
was made to the salary of the incumbent, by the purchase of an equivalent
amount of 3 per cent. Reduced Bank Annuities, raising its annual income
to 150 pounds, the nomination to the incumbency being transferred to the
Queen and her successors.  The Rev. J. Banks succeeded to the living in
1847, who, previous to his relinquishing it in 1852, effected several
improvements in the interior of the church.  The Rev. W. H. Taylor
followed him, and still remains the minister.  The adjoining school
premises have been made much more complete and capacious by him, so as
amply to accommodate 150 children, and a teacher's house has been
erected.  A permanent redemption of the land-tax charged on the living,
at the cost of 150 pounds, has also been presented by Thomas Graham, Esq.
There are three tablets on the north side or oldest part of the church,
to the memories of Edward Hawkins, the first teacher in the school, the
Rev. P. M. Procter, and the Rev. T. R. Garnsey, and a flat paved stone
records the grave of Thomas Morgan.  About ten marriages, forty-three
baptisms, and thirty-five funerals take place yearly.  The church is well
attended on Sunday, especially in the afternoon, when 300 or 400 persons
are usually present.

Whilst the Rev. P. M. Procter and the Rev. H. Berkin were engaged in
effecting the improvements described on the west and north-east sides of
the Forest, the Rev. H. Poole was labouring to accomplish similar results
on the south-east.  The appeal for public aid towards "the erection of a
church and school-house," which he issued on the 6th July, 1819, thus
forcibly describes the necessities of the case:--"The Forest is an
extensive tract of land, having a circumference of about twenty-five
miles, and containing at present nearly 5,000 souls.  This population,
with some exceptions, may be considered as divided into three
settlements, detached from each other by a space of several miles, of
which settlements two are now provided with churches; but the other
colony, situated on the south-east side, is still destitute of the means
of religious knowledge.  It is therefore proposed, under the sanction of
the Lord Bishop of the diocese, to erect a third church and school-house
in this still neglected spot.  From a recent accurate survey, it appears
that within little more than two miles of the site of the proposed church
there are at least 400 inhabitants, distant from the other Forest
churches about six miles, and from any parish church nearly three miles.
The chapel of Bream, the nearest episcopal place of worship, is too small
to accommodate even one-third of the population of its own tithing.
Being thus unprovided with a place of worship and the means of public
instruction, and following the corrupt dictates of their untutored minds,
the natural consequences are gross ignorance of the Scriptures, a
shameful profanation of the Sabbath, and a total neglect of all the
duties of religion, accompanied with a general prevalence of disorderly
and immoral conduct."  This application met with a generous response from
Bishop Ryder, Edward Protheroe, Esq., the Earl of Liverpool, the Right
Hon. N. Vansittart, Edward Machen, Esq., Lord Calthorpe, Lady Olivia
Sparrow, Mrs. H. More, &c.

The site chosen for the new church, as being most convenient of access
for the largest number of persons, was "Mason's Tump," situated
immediately to the east of Whitemead, Park End.  In the two previous
instances of church-building at Berry Hill and Holy Trinity, little had
been attempted in the way of appropriate design; but in this case Mr.
Poole's practical knowledge and good taste enabled more to be
accomplished.  At a total cost of 2,731 pounds, including the churchyard
boundary wall and gates, a cruciform edifice, enlarged into an octagon
forty-six feet in diameter at the intersection, having a total length of
sixty-six feet, so as to accommodate 500 people, was erected in the
Decorated style of architecture; attached to which there was also raised
a well-proportioned tower, eighty feet in height, and intended to contain
a small peal of eight bells, Edward Machen, Esq., presenting the treble,
as well as a good clock with three dials.

                  [Picture: St. Paul's Church, Park End]

The church now possesses a good finger organ, removed from Ross church,
and said to have been used originally in Salisbury Cathedral.  There is
also a rich reredos under the east window.  At eleven o'clock on the
morning of the 2nd of May, 1822, Dr. Ryder, the Lord Bishop of
Gloucester, attended by thirteen clergymen and many of the magistrates
and gentry of the neighbourhood, proceeded to the spot for the purpose of
dedicating the fabric to the service of God as the Church of St. Paul.
The Bishop entered the edifice by the west door, followed by his clergy,
repeating alternately the 24th Psalm.  Every seat was immediately filled,
and soon no spot was left unoccupied.  Many could not gain admission, and
were seen clinging to the bars of the windows on the outside.  A large
company of professional and amateur singers attended, so that the whole
musical part of the service was well executed.  His Lordship delivered an
impressive discourse from the 8th, 9th, and 10th verses of the 132nd
Psalm.  The congregation was very attentive, and, after contributing at
the door nearly 30 pounds towards the completion of the work, dispersed,
fully 1,000 persons being observed to leave the church.  The perpetual
advowson of the living was assigned to the Bishop of the diocese, and
endowed with 75 pounds 6s. 6d. per annum, together with the remainder of
the five acres of land granted by the Crown as glebe, on which a
picturesque parsonage, and also commodious schools for a population
supposed to number 1,500, were erected.  By the Act of 1842 the income of
the incumbency was augmented to 150 pounds a year, and the presentation
confirmed to the Bishop of the diocese, with an ecclesiastical district
annexed to it of 7,741 acres, with 3,681 inhabitants.  This population
has since increased to 6,500, to meet which growth pleasing and
substantial schools have been built, at a total outlay of 750 pounds, on
the Viney Hill and in the Blakeney Valley, the former opened in 1850, and
the latter in 1851.  Divine service is held in each of them under
episcopal licence.  The three schools are attended by 200 children daily.
The Sunday congregations comprise 150 people in the morning, and 400 in
the afternoon.  About fifty come to the Lord's Table.  The yearly average
of christenings is forty-six, of weddings twenty-six, and of funerals
forty-five.  The following is a list of

    _Incumbents_.--Henry Poole; J. J. Ebsworth, M.A.

    _Curates_.--David Jones, M.A., Oxon.; --- Dixon, B.A., Oxon.; ---
    Revel, M.A., Camb.; --- Stewart, M.A., Camb.; --- Mountfort, M.A.,
    Oxon.; --- Malpas, M.A.; --- Cardew, B.A.; --- Ponton, B.A.

           [Picture: St. John's Church and Schools, Cinderford]

The next effort made to meet the spiritual wants of the increasing
population of the Forest was commenced by Edward Protheroe, Esq., M.P.,
who erected and opened, July 1, 1840, "on Cinderford Tump, where the old
holly grew," large and substantial school-buildings, for the benefit of
the families connected with his adjacent collieries, and consigned them
to the care of Mr. Zachariah Jolly as their master, an office which he
ably filled for several years.  The attendance was large, sometimes
exceeding 280 children of both sexes.  In the first seventeen years, to
July, 1857, nearly 1,400 young persons were admitted into the schools, at
ages ranging from four to twenty-two years.  There was also an evening
school for adults, some winters numbering ninety, patronized by the South
Wales Railway Company, who subscribed liberally to it.  By the Act of
July, 1842, dividing the Forest into ecclesiastical districts, its
south-east section was constituted one of them, and a stipend of 150
pounds per annum provided for the minister, so soon as the church
intended for it should be built and consecrated.  Aided by large
donations from the Crown, Charles Bathurst, Esq., the Rev. Dr. Warneford,
and others, the new church, erected on the hill above Cinderford Bridge,
at a cost of 3,109 pounds, in the Early Pointed style of Gothic
architecture, on the plan of a Latin cross, with a belfry turret, and
capable of seating 800 persons, was consecrated under the name of St.
John the Apostle, by Bishop Monk, on the 22nd of October, 1844.  There
was a large attendance of clergy, and upwards of 1,100 persons were
present, many others being unable to obtain admission into the church.
The Rev. R. Davies preached from St. Matt. xii. 34.  The Rev. T. G.
Smythies, who had been residing for some time in the district, became the
first incumbent.  This appointment he continues to hold, and by the aid
of the Crown, the late Bishop Monk, Dr. Warneford, and the Gally Knight
Fund, has built an excellent parsonage conveniently adjoining the church.

Following the course of ecclesiastical and educational progress in the
Forest, it only remains to record the most recent step taken, namely,
that at Lydbrook.  The erection of a church there, although contemplated
for several years previously, was deferred for some time, until the
assiduous exertions of the Rev. J. Burdon, and the munificent donation of
2,000 pounds from Mr. Machen and his relatives, secured its
accomplishment. {172}  The cost of the building, including the site,
which lies on the north-east <DW72> of the Lydbrook Valley, close to the
original school-room, was 3,500 pounds, to which the following public
bodies thus contributed:


Her Majesty's Commissioners of         250 pounds
Woods, &c.
  ,,  Church Building                         100
Commissioners
Incorporated Society                          230
Diocesan ditto                                200
                                             ----
                                       780 pounds


The rest was given by private persons, the principal being Messrs.
Allaway and Partridge, who contributed 250 pounds.

                  [Picture: Lydbrook Church and Schools]

The church was designed by H. Woodyer, Esq., in the Geometrical style of
Decorated architecture, and comprises a nave and aisles 60 feet long and
50 feet in width, a handsome chancel, a south porch, and tower 80 feet
high.  It is built in the ornamented parts and internally of Bath stone,
the exterior being the gritstone of the neighbourhood.  The foundation
stone was laid on Monday, the 12th of August, 1850, and the church,
called that of "The Holy Jesus," was consecrated on the 4th December,
1851, by Dr. Ollivant, Bishop of Llandaff, the Bishop of the diocese
being too unwell to attend.  Considering the season of the year, the day
was very fine, nearly fifty clergymen were present, and upwards of one
thousand people crowded into the edifice.  The Rev. E. Machen, Rector of
Mitcheldean, preached the sermon on Isaiah lvi. 7.  A stipend of about
120 pounds was secured to the incumbent of the church by annexing to it
30 pounds from the tithes of English Bicknor, with an additional 90
pounds from the Crown, which consequently presents to the living,
alternately with Queen's College, Oxford.  The first incumbent was the
Rev. W. Deering, who was succeeded in 1853 by the Rev. T. H. Chase, by
whom it is still held, and who has been enabled to erect a suitable
parsonage house.  About thirty baptisms, fifteen funerals, with a
proportionate number of weddings, take place at this church annually.
Nearly 150 persons attend on the Sunday morning, and 250 in the
afternoon, amongst whom there are forty communicants, the total
population of the parish being 2,500.

In addition to the five churches named above, my knowledge of the
district enables me to state that the rapid increase of population calls
for the erection of at least three more, on the east, south, and west
sides of the Forest, all of which should, if possible, be provided
without delay.

Besides the efforts of the Church, directed as now described, for the
benefit of the population of the Forest, its inhabitants have of late
years become an object of religious regard to the different bodies of
Congregationalists, most of whom are represented amongst the Foresters.
The wealthier coal and iron masters manifest a benevolent interest in the
welfare of their workmen, and in one instance have established a large
day-school, and built a place of worship for their use.  The
Commissioners of the Crown have always attended to applications for help
in furtherance of these objects, and have at different times granted sums
to the amount of 10,347 pounds towards endowing the Forest churches, and
in some years have devoted as much as 800 pounds to the maintenance of
schools, which they annually aid by the following donations:


                       pounds        _s._           _d._
St. Paul's                 70            0             0
District (Park
End, 30 pounds,
Oldcroft 20
pounds, and
Blakeney
Woodside 20
pounds)
Christ Church              30            0             0
District
Holy Trinity               70            0             0
District
(Trinity 30
pounds,
Ruardean
Woodside 20
pounds,
Hawthorns 20
pounds)
Cinderford                 30            0             0
Lydbrook                   30            0             0
Bream                      15            0             0
St. Briavel's               5            5             0
Mitcheldean                 5            5             0
Blakeney                   15            0             0
Staunton                   10            0             0
Dixton                      5            0             0
Coleford                    5            0             0
English Bicknor             2            2             0
Whitchurch                  5            0             0
                         ----          ---           ---
                          297           12             0


To the above must be added the handsome donation of 500 pounds from
Thomas Graham, Esq., formerly clerk to the Dean Forest Commissioners.




CHAPTER XI.


The history of the Abbey of Flaxley, or St. Mary de Dene--Its foundation
by Roger Earl of Hereford in 1140--Confirmed and enriched by Henry II.
and III., and Richard II.--Suppressed in 1541--Existing remains--St.
Anthony's Well--The Abbey, &c., granted to Sir W. Kingston--His
descendants--Mrs. C. Riches (Boevey), supposed to be Sir R. de Coverley's
"perverse widow;" her benevolent life, and death in 1726--Nature and
cessation of the Flaxley iron-works--Erection of the present church in
1856.

The link which connects the Abbey of Flaxley with the Forest of Dean is
chiefly of an antiquarian nature; for instead of being included as
formerly within the limits of the Forest, it is merely approached on one
side by a promontory of Crown land, called "Pope's Hill."  The incident
which led to the foundation of the abbey, as related by Leland, who
visited it a short time before it was suppressed, shows the Forest
character of its precincts.  He tells us--"ther was a brother of Rogerus
Earl of Hereforde that was kylled wythe an arowe in huntinge in the very
place where the abbay syns was made.  There was a table of the matter
hanggid up in the abbay church."  The date of its institution is assigned
to the year 1140, or the reign of Stephen, its chief founder being the
aforesaid Roger, aided by a Bishop of Hereford "that holped much to the
buildinge," and who was probably Robert de Betune, by whom the north-west
transept of that cathedral is said to have been erected.  They designated
it "the Abbey of St. Mary de Dene, or Dene Abbey," and devoted it to the
use of the White Monks of the Cistertian order.  Tintern, the other abbey
of that order, established near the western border of the Forest, was
founded nine years before.  The dress of the monks was a white cassock,
with a narrow scapulary; and from this doubtless comes the name of "St.
White's," on Little Dean Hill, in the parish of Flaxley, as well as of
another spot called Whitecross.

The institution of the abbey was confirmed, and its endowment augmented,
by two charters, granted by Henry II., to the following purport:--"Know
ye that I have granted and confirmed to God and St. Mary, and to the
monks of the Cistertian order, a certain place in the valley of Castiard
called Flaxley, to build an abbey there; and all that land called
Wastdean, and one iron forge free and quit, and with as free liberty to
work as any of my forges in demesne; and all the land under the Old
Castle of Dene, with liberty to plough it up, to wit 100 acres, which
remains to be assarted, and that which is already assarted; and a certain
fishery at Redley called Newerre, and a meadow of Reidley called
Pulmeade, containing four acres; and all easements in the Forest of Dean,
to wit, common of pasture for their young cattle and hogs and for all
other beasts, and wood and timber to repair their houses and buildings,
and for other necessaries, without committing waste in the Forest; and I
have given them tithes of chesnuts out of the same Forest, and all my
demesnes at Dymmock; and five yard lands and a half, besides the demesnes
and half my wood at Dymmock, and half my nets which I have in my hands,
for the conveniences of my men, because I would have my monks enjoy that
part of the wood peaceably and quietly, without any interfering with any
other persons; and I straightly command that no person offer to disturb
them upon this account; and the lands belonging to Walfric; but so that
if Uhred the clerk continues in the abbey with the lands he exchanged, to
wit, two yard lands, that then he shall give no account of it to any body
but the abbot; and all the land of Jeoffry, son of the aforesaid Walfric,
which the Earl of Hereford did release, and all the land which Leffric de
Staura gave to them in alms, and the farm which I gave them at Wallemere,
out of my new ploughed ground containing 200 acres with the meadows and
pastures, and all other easements; and four acres of Northwood.  I
further give to them my new ploughed grounds under Castiard, called
Vincent Lands;" added to which, there was a grant of two oaks out of the
Forest every seven days, for supplying their iron-forge with fuel.

Few of the properties here named can now be traced.  Castiard is unknown,
but perhaps the "old Castle of Dene" is identical with a circular ditch
and bank, about fifty yards in diameter, on Camp Hill, between Flaxley
and Little Dean.  It may also be observed that the present Chesnuts
Enclosure is probably the site of the chesnut groves referred to in the
above grants.  A century later (42 Henry III.) the two oaks weekly were
commuted for a tract of woodland in the Forest, containing 872 acres,
reserving, however, the herbage for the King's deer and wild beasts, and
all mines and quarries, and a power to the grantee to enclose one-tenth
part thereof, and to hold the same enclosed against all animals except
the King's deer and wild beasts, leaving nine tenth parts always open;
all which peculiarities of tenure are connected with a tract of land yet
identified by the name of "the Abbot's Woods."  Between the years 1206
and 1215 King John paid several visits to Flaxley.  In the terms of a
Papal taxation levied in 1291 by Pope Nicholas, the property of this
abbey was thus valued:--


                       pounds             _s._           _d._
In the diocese             14                0              1
of Hereford, at
  ,,  Bath and             11                0              0
Wells
  ,,  Worcester             7                5              0
                           --                -              -
           Total           32                5              1


Ere long it acquired the dignity of a mitred abbey, though never of a
peeral one, its abbot being summoned to Parliament 21st Edward III.
During the reign of Richard II. these additional grants were made to
it:--"Certain tenements in Leye, Bosteley, and Rodley; the manor and
impropriate church of Flaxley; the manors of Blaisdon, Newnham, and
Ruerdean; distinct manors in the parishes of Dean Parva, Dymock, and
Arlingham, with a house in Abbenhall."  A document in the Chapter-house
at Westminster, dated 10th Edward II., has the abbot's seal attached,
representing an abbot standing erect with his crosier under a canopy
slightly ornamented, with the legend S . ABBATIS . DE . FLAXLE.  The
counter seal is a hand with a crosier, and other ornaments, viz., a
fleur-de-lis, &c., surrounded by the words CONTRA SIGILLUM ABBATIS DE
FLAXLE.  The names and dates of the following abbots have been
preserved:--


Elected.
1288                                Nicholas.
1314                                William de Rya.
1372                                Richard Peyta.
1509                                John ---.
1528                                William Beawdley.
1532                                Thomas Ware.


The last of these, Thomas Ware, survived the suppression of the house and
the dispersion of its brethren, of whom there were nine at that time, the
abbey being delivered up to the King's Commissioners in 1541, valued at
112 pounds 13s. 1d., according to Dugdale.  Tintern Abbey was suppressed
four years previously.  Ware retired to Aston Rowant, near Thame, in
Oxfordshire, where he spent the rest of his life in seclusion, and was
there buried in 1546.

The vicissitudes of 300 years have left little of the original structure
remaining: only in 1788 the pavement of the Chapter-house was discovered
at a small depth, on the east side of the refectory, extending about 45
feet, and 24 wide.  At the upper end a circular stone bench was exposed,
and in the centre the carved base of a pillar.  Several coffin-lids of
stone were likewise found, sculptured with ornamented crosses, and upon
one a hand and arm holding a crosier, under which probably one of the
abbots was interred.  The view of the abbey as it appeared about the year
1712, according to Sir R. Atkyns's print, exhibits traces of the ancient
residence of the abbot and monks, respecting which the Rev. T. Rudge
remarks--"It was low, but long in front, being 60 feet in length, 25 feet
wide, and only 14 high; the whole arched with stone, and the vault
intersected with plain and massy ribs, and seems to have formed the
refectory.  The first floor contained a long gallery, and at the south
end one very spacious apartment which was supposed to have been the
abbot's chief room.  The dormitories or cells were connected with the
great gallery."

              [Picture: Stone coffin lids at Flaxley Abbey]

                [Picture: The Refectory of Flaxley Abbey]

     [Picture: Open Timber Roof of the Abbot's Room at Flaxley Abbey]

A further trace of the same period is also to be found at the head of one
of the brooks feeding the stream which descends the Flaxley valley,
called "St. Anthony's Well," and which, from its supposed medicinal
properties, was until late years widely famed for curing cutaneous
disorders, although under circumstances somewhat connected with the
marvellous, its peculiar efficacy being combined with the rising of the
sun, the month of May, and the visits to it being repeated nine times in
succession.  However, after due allowance for some exaggeration, there
remains ample proof of the utility of its waters in removing diseases of
the skin.  The square basin or reservoir of stone immediately adjoining
the head of the spring was made at the commencement of this century for
the convenience of bathers, and occupies a very secluded position,
overshadowed by a large beech-tree, and closed round with mossy banks.
The water is abundant in quantity, and contains iron and lime, derived
from the strata through which it percolates.  The general temperature is
50 degrees.

                      [Picture: St. Anthony's Well]

On the suppression of the Abbey in 1541, Henry VIII. granted it to Sir
William Kingston, the Constable of the Tower of London, memorable as
being the person to whom the dying Wolsey confessed--"If I had served God
as diligently as I have done the King, he would not have given me over in
my gray hayres."  Sir William dying in 1545, letters patent regranted to
Anthony his son (who in consideration of his father's services was
knighted on the occasion) "the site of the late Abbey, and all the
church, bellhouse, and churchyard of the same, and all the houses,
granges, &c., as well within as without the said site, and also all other
the manors and granges of Flaxley, Howle, Goderith, Climperwell, Wolmore,
Blaisdon, Aclingham, Le Rouhen, Ruardene, Newland, Dene Parva, Newnham,
Pulton, and Dymock, with their rights in the county of Gloucester, and
the house and manor of Rochilburgh in the county of Somerset, belonging
to the same; and all advocations, presentations, &c., of the said
parishes at any time appurtenant to the said monastery," subject to the
yearly payment of 1 pound 8s. 2d.  In the third year of Edward VI. he
accompanied Lord Russell as Provost Marshal of the army sent against the
Western rebels, in which capacity his great severity obtained for him the
epithet from Fuller of "the terrible Provost Marshal."  His name occurs
on the roll of High Sheriffs for the county in the year 1549.  In 1555
Queen Mary appointed him one of the commissioners to see execution done
upon that excellent prelate and martyr Bishop Hooper, by whom he had been
formerly admonished for gross immorality, and forced to submit and do
penance, as well as pay a fine of 500 pounds.

It is not surprising to find him a vigorous opponent in parliament of the
Queen's effort for restoring to the religious establishments the property
of which they had been deprived.  So strongly was he opposed to this,
that on one occasion he seized the keys of the House from the serjeant,
for which he was committed to the Tower, although upon his humble
submission he was afterwards discharged.  The next year he was supposed,
and not without reason, to be involved in a plot to rob the Exchequer of
50,000 pounds, and therewith to raise a rebellion; but it was discovered,
and all the conspirators were executed except Sir A. Kingston, who
perhaps only escaped by dying on his road to London, whither he was
summoned to appear before the Council.  By his will, dated 27th of April,
1 Edw. VI., he entailed his several manors and estates on his sons,
Anthony and Edmund.  Anthony died without issue, having in 1591 leased
the Grange estate to one William Brain and others of Little Dean, for 370
years, of which an annual acknowledgment of 6 pounds continues to be paid
by its present holders, and Edmund succeeded to all the Kingston
property.  He left two sons, Anthony and George, the former of whom died
in 1594, leaving by his will his sons Edmund and George joint executors
and heirs.  George died in the year 1647, intestate, seized of the
Collect (Gawlet?) woods, in the parish of Flaxley, and was father of
Anthony.

It is said by Sir R. Atkyns that there was a monument to George Kingston
in the chancel of the original church of the parish, inscribed as
follows:--

                                "Mar. 4, 1644.

    "Vixi dum vellem, moriebar tempore grato
    Et sic vita mihi mors quoque grata fuit."

    "Kings have stones on them when they die,
    And here Kingstone under a stone doth lie;
    Nor Prince, nor Peer, nor any mortal wight,
    Can shun Death's dart--Death still will have his right.
    O then bethink to what you all must trust,
    At last to die, and come to judgment just."

There are no traces of any such monument now, and it was therefore
probably destroyed when the church was rebuilt about 1730.

The Kingstons took no part apparently in the contests which occurred in
the neighbourhood between the Royalists and Parliamentarians, but
confined their attention to their own affairs and the management of their
iron-works.  The only member of the family who suffered was a Sir Francis
Crawley, who, about the year 1642-3, was deposed for a judgment in favour
of the King on the question of ship-money, or something of a similar
kind.  The family possess one of King Charles's rings as a memento of
such a decision.  Edmund died in 1621, and was father of William, who,
pursuant to his father Edmund's will, made a settlement between himself,
William, and James Boevey on one part, and William Jones, of Nass, on the
other.  He left an only son, Anthony, who, having no issue, disposed of
the estate to Abraham Clarke, Esq., who died here in 1683, as also his
wife Joana, from whose son Abraham, dying in 1682, it passed, in virtue
of certain complex devises, to a near relative, William Boevey, Esq.  Mr.
Boevey married Catharina (in her sixteenth year), daughter of John
Riches, Esq., an affluent London merchant.  She was left at the age of
twenty-two a widow, which she inexorably remained until her death, on the
3rd January, 1726, in her fifty-seventh year, leaving a name for
benevolence and ability which the neighbourhood venerates to this day.
Dr. Geo. Hickes calls her, in the preface to his 'Thesaurus,' published
in 1702-3, "praestantissima et honestissima matrona Catharine Bovey," and
was most probably one of her personal friends, agreeably to a
traditionary account in the family, that "she was very friendly to the
nonjuring clergy, and that she had frequently received and protected
them."

There are several pictures of clergymen at Flaxley, which have always
been believed to be portraits of Mrs. Boevey's nonjuring friends.
Amongst these are two in episcopal habits, one of which is ascertained to
be the portrait of the deprived Dr. Frampton, Bishop of Gloucester, since
an exactly similar painting exists in the Palace at Gloucester.  Flaxley
is mentioned as her residence by Sir R. Atkyns in 1712, where, he tells
us, "she hath an handsome house and pleasant gardens, and a great estate,
a furnace for casting of iron, and three forges," as also appears by
Kip's view of it.  In 1714 Steele dedicated to her the second volume of
'The Ladies' Library,' the frontispiece to which Mr. Kerslake describes
as "representing a young lady, dressed in widow's weeds, opening a book
upon a table, on which also lies a skull; her admirers, in long wigs and
swords, are thronging round the door."  In one of his letters to Lady
Steele, dated the 17th January, 1717, he writes--"I have yours in a leaf
of the widow's."  Such incidents seem to prove that this highly-gifted
lady was the original of the character so graphically delineated by
Steele in his description of "the perverse widow."  The numbers of the
'Spectator' in which she is introduced generally bear his name, and she
probably was more intimate with him than with Addison (although both are
said to have visited the Abbey), since he would naturally pass near
Flaxley whenever he travelled between London and his house at Llangunnor,
near Caermarthen.  Nothing less than such a familiar acquaintance could
have enabled him to give so exact and real a description of her as occurs
in No. 113.

In Ballard's 'Ladies,' first printed in 1752, and on her monument in
Westminster Abbey and in Flaxley Church, her more public virtues are
displayed; but the value of her home life, which many of the poor
Foresters had experienced in her bounties, is best related in the words
of her faithful attendant, Mrs. Rachel Vergo, "who always waited
particularly on her mistress, and was the only servant who sat up, as she
spent an hour or two every night in her closet.  She did the same in the
morning, and was a very early riser.  Mrs. Vergo had the care of the
family under Mrs. Mary Pope, a relation of Mrs. Bovey, who came for a
visit of a month, and stayed nearly forty years.  The regularity and
economy in the family was great.  The maids were kept to work till eight
o'clock at night, and the rest was their own time.  Mrs. Bovey frequently
called for her charity account book to see if it kept pace with her
expenses in dress, which was always very handsome.  Mrs. Vergo was often
sent to Ross and Mitcheldean to buy materials to make garments for the
poor.  The old table-linen and sheets were made into childbed linen,
which, together with shirts and shifts of all sizes, were kept in a
closet.  It was Mrs. Vergo's business to give them out as her lady
ordered.  Two ladies came to visit Mrs. Pope at the time the epidemic
fever raged in Gloucestershire in 1719.  One of them, Mrs. Cowling, died
of it at the Abbey.  The other, Mrs. Grace Butler, agreed with Mrs. Bovey
and Mrs. Pope all to lie in the same vault with the deceased.  The vault
was built accordingly in Flaxley churchyard.  Mrs. Bovey died first at
the Abbey, and was laid by her friend.  Mrs. Pope was brought from
Twickenham in Surrey, and Mrs. Grace Butler twenty years afterwards from
Worminghurst in Sussex.  Every afternoon during her lady's life Mrs.
Vergo was ordered to wear a silk gown.  Six of the poor children who were
kept at school at Flaxley dined by turns regularly every Sunday at the
Abbey, when Mrs. Bovey heard them say their Catechism.  She was very
often in the habit of lending money to poor clergymen, which was
frequently repaid to her in small sums, but more often given to them.
She did the same, too, by other distressed people whom she believed to be
honest and industrious.  During the Christmas holidays before Mrs. Bovey
died she had the thirty children who were taught at her expense, to dine
at the Abbey upon beef and pudding.  Mrs. Vergo sat at the head of the
table, and two of the housemaids waited upon them.  After dinner Mrs.
Bovey had them all into the parlour, where she was sitting dressed in
white and silver.  She showed them her clothes and her jewels, talked
pleasantly and with great good nature to them, and having given to each
of them sixpence she dismissed them.  When they left her they had a harp
and fiddle playing in the great hall, where they danced two hours and
went away in good time.  When Mrs. Bovey was dressing before dinner she
said to Mrs. Vergo, 'Rachel, you will be surprised that I put such fine
clothes on to-day; but I think that these poor children will remember me
the longer for it.'  She was then to all appearance very well, but she
died that very day month of a bowel complaint."--"Upon Wednesday
morning," wrote Mr. MacBarrow, "she was as well at breakfast as usual;
between eleven and twelve she was seized with a most violent colic.  We
sent to Gloucester for Greville, as the nearest at hand; that night for
Lane, but he was not to be met with.  The extremity of pain continued,
and, notwithstanding all means that could be used, nothing would pass.
She apprehended death approaching the first day, and said what her
illness was: we sent to Oxford and Hereford, but no physician until it
was too late.  Upon Friday morning she had a little ease, which gave us
great hopes; but very soon the exquisite pain returned, and never left
her until death had performed its great office, betwixt eleven and twelve
on Saturday morning.  She was sensible all along, and expressed great
satisfaction in being here, where she said she always wished to die.  She
was buried in the same vault with Mrs. Cowling on 23rd January,
1726."--"Of her personal beauty," observes the Rev. C. Crawley, "although
highly extolled, it really appears that very little can be said or seen,
if we may form our opinions from the three portraits of her at Flaxley
Abbey.  They all represent a broad surface of a benevolent and
good-natured countenance; and though they were evidently painted at
different periods of her life, yet they bear so great a resemblance to
each other that we may reasonably infer they were all good likenesses--in
each of them the mole on the cheek has been defined with all due
minuteness."

Mrs. Boevey bequeathed 1200 pounds to augment the living of Flaxley, the
interest of 400 pounds to apprentice poor children, and a similar sum
towards putting them out.  Lastly she designed the rebuilding of the
church, "which pious design was speedily executed by Mrs. Mary Pope."
This work was effected about the year 1730, but report says _not_
"speedily," as the parishioners found it necessary to institute a suit in
Chancery to secure its accomplishment.  The site of the old chapel was
retained, only the size was increased, if we may judge from the view that
Sir R. Atkyns gives of the former building, which he says was "very
small, and had a low wooden tower at the west end."  Most of the old
monuments were transferred to it, and the new church, although rather
plain, was "peculiarly neat" and substantial.  Upon Mrs. Boevey's death
the estate passed by will to Thomas Crawley, Esq., of London, merchant,
in tail male, upon the condition of adding the name of Boevey to Crawley.
Thomas, a lineal descendant, succeeded to the baronetage on the death of
Sir Charles Barrow in January, 1789, by limitation of the patent. {189}
Part of the mansion having been destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt by him
in 1777, with extensive additions.  This house yet remains, and is a
capacious structure.

    [Picture: The original Chapel at Flaxley, as it appeared in 1712]

"The iron manufactory," writes Rev. T. Rudge, at the beginning of this
century, "is still carried on, and the metal is esteemed peculiarly good;
but its goodness does not arise from any extraordinary qualities in the
ore, but from the practice of working the furnace and forges with
charcoal wood, without any mixture of pit coal.  The quantity of charcoal
required is so considerable, that the furnace cannot be kept in blow or
working more than nine months successively, the wheels which work the
bellows and hammers being turned by a powerful stream of water.  At this
time (Oct. 28, 1802) a cessation has taken place for nearly a year.
Lancashire ore, which is brought to Newnham by sea, furnishes the
principal supply; the mine found in the Forest being either too scanty to
answer the expense of raising it, or when raised too difficult of fusion,
and consequently too consumptive of fuel, to allow the common use of it."
Since then so great a change has been effected in the mode of reducing
the ore, that several tons of the Lancashire mine yet remain unused near
the spot where the Flaxley furnace stood, the Forest ore readily yielding
to the treatment it now receives in the blast furnaces of the district.
"When the furnace is at work, about twenty tons a week are reduced to pig
iron; in this state it is carried to the forges, where about eight tons a
week are hammered out into bars, ploughshares, &c., ready for the smith."
The aged people of the neighbourhood well remember when the Flaxley
furnaces were in blast, and tell of the ancient cinders and pickings of
the old mine-holes being taken down to them.  With their disuse the
former mode of manufacturing iron ceased in the district.  The furnace
buildings have been long removed, and the pools drained in which the
water accumulated for driving the machinery.

           [Picture: Flaxley Church, and Abbey in the distance]

Thus the "Castiard Vale" is once more devoted wholly to the picturesque,
with the most pleasing effect, its beauty being yet further enhanced by a
well-placed and exquisitely designed church, erected a few yards to the
west of the one built by Mrs. Pope, after the designs of G. G. Scott,
Esq., in the Early Decorated style of pointed architecture. {191}  It
comprises a richly ornamented chancel, nave, and north aisle, and a tower
surmounted with a broach spire.  There is churchroom for about 300 of the
poor Foresters dwelling on Pope's Hill, as well as for the inhabitants of
the parish.  It was consecrated on the 18th of September, 1856, by Dr.
Baring, Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, who preached on the occasion
from Eccl. v. 1, most of the surrounding gentry attending, and fifty of
the clergy.  The present school-room was built in 1840, and accommodates
sixty scholars.




CHAPTER XII.


The Forest roads and railways--Vestiges of some very ancient roads,
apparently Roman--The old "crooked, winding, and cross ways," when no
wheeled vehicles were allowed in the Forest--The original road across the
Forest from Gloucester to Monmouth--Roads, first improvement in
1761--Road Act of 1795 carried into effect--Mitcheldean a post
town--Roads further improved in 1828 and 1841--their present state and
extent--The tramroads and railways of the Forest.

Unusually perfect remains of very ancient roads still exist in various
parts of the Forest, resembling those made by the Romans, being slightly
raised above the general level of the ground, and carefully pitched with
large block stones, not unfrequently a foot square.  The most remarkable
of these is found along the vale below Puttern Edge, and called "Dean's
Road," where the pitching remains in many places, being about eight feet
in width.  Although no coins have been found near it, yet its direction,
indicating a connexion between the old iron-works above Sowdley, and the
neighbourhood of Lydney, suggests that it was used in ancient times when
the minerals of the district were carried from place to place on
packhorses.  Another road, yet traceable, gives the name of "Kymin"
(Chemin) to a hill opposite Monmouth, the <DW72>s of which it ascends in
the direction of the Forest; and a third is partially preserved in a lane
leading amongst the cottages at Little Dean's Woodside: it is called by
the inhabitants "the Causeway," being yet partly paved, and uniting with
another road, which is still in places formed of large stones.

The "crooked, winding, and cross-ways," which are said by Camden to have
existed in the Forest, and to have rendered it a place of refuge for
noble fugitives, were those paths which penetrated its depths, having
their direction turned and rendered perplexing through the frequent
interposition of streams, bogs, and thickets.  Such were the means of
communication which for many generations served the purposes of the
Foresters, who permitted no wheeled vehicles to enter their domain, and
possessed few if any themselves.

One high road, nearly identical with the present line between Monmouth
and Mitcheldean, seems to have sufficed for the neighbourhood during at
least 200 years.  It was in use in the age of Elizabeth, a silver penny
of that reign having been found on it, between Nailbridge and Harrow
Hill.  By this road Lord Herbert must have marched his army of 500 horse
and 1500 foot towards Gloucester in 1643, as likewise Sir W. Waller a
month later when pursued by Prince Maurice, and most probably Colonel
Massey took the same route more than once.  It seems also to be alluded
to in the following suggestion made to Sir R. Atkyns, as Lord Chief Baron
of the Exchequer, by a committee appointed in 1692 to inquire into the
state of the Forest, with the view of securing its better government and
preservation.  They proposed that "a Justice-seat should be held once a
year, for six or seven years, during the long vacation, within the said
Forest, or not very remote from it, which might be done by deputation
from the Lord Chief Justice in Eyre to some of their Majesties' Justices
of Assize going in their _ordinary circuits from Gloucester to
Monmouth_."  Their journey was of course made on horseback, the usage
being still continued, which the father of the Lord Chancellor Clarendon
permitted him to adopt, when he gave him "leave to ride the circuit in
the summer with his uncle the Chief Justice."  An old house at the foot
of the Plump Hill, near Mitcheldean, called "the Judges' Lodgings,"
because they made it their resting-place as they passed that way, seems
confirmatory of the above suggestion.

The first mention of any sum being spent on the improvement of the Forest
roads, occurs about the time that the trees planted in 1668 would be
growing into timber fit for the Royal dockyards, and requiring therefore
facilities for removal to the water-side.  Hence, between 1761 and 1786,
upwards of 11,305 pounds 1s. 10d. was laid out on them.  Mr. Thomas
Blunt, the Deputy Surveyor of the Forest, stated in 1788, in explanation
of such an outlay, "That there are two great roads leading across the
Forest, which have been made and kept in repair by the produce of timber
felled and sold for that purpose, and on which by far the greater part of
the expense for roads has been bestowed; the one enters the Forest at
Mitcheldean, and proceeds quite across the Forest to Coleford, the other
leads from Little Dean to Coleford.  These two roads have been made
chiefly with a view to the convenience of the public, being the principal
roads from Gloucester to South Wales; neither of which roads, nor others
which have been made and amended at a considerable expense to the Crown,
are any way conducive to the preservation of the Forest, as they are but
of little use in the conveyance of timber felled for the use of the Navy,
the Navy timber in general being carried by a distinct road leading from
the Forest towards Blakeney, which induces him to believe that the roads
lately made are disadvantageous to the Forest, more carts and waggons
having been used since the making of the roads in the fetching and
carrying away of coal, greater quantities of timber being used in the
coalworks, and much more timber secretly conveyed away under the coal
than heretofore; which practice he believes might in a great measure be
prevented by the erecting of turnpike gates on the roads, the tolls
whereof would be fully sufficient to keep the roads in necessary repair."

But the Forest roads were still in so execrable a condition, being
impassable in the winter, and at other times perilous to the heavily
laden coal waggons and horses, always requiring large teams, according to
the unanimous testimony of the oldest residents, that a further outlay on
them, to the amount of 10,645 pounds, took place in carrying out the
provisions of the Act passed in 1795 "for amending, widening, improving,
and keeping in repair several roads in and through His Majesty's Forest
of Dean, and the waste lands thereto belonging, in the county of
Gloucester, and for turning, altering, and changing the course of the
said roads, and for making several new roads in the said Forest to lead
to certain places in and near the same; and also for amending, widening,
and keeping in repair certain roads leading from the said Forest to and
through several parts of the parish of Newland adjoining the Forest, in
the said county of Gloucester."  Mr. Surveyor Brimner states, that at a
meeting of the Verderers of the Forest, and the Roads Trustees, held at
Newnham, 22nd April, 1796, the following roads were appointed to be put
in repair:--

From Mitcheldean to Coleford Lane End.
,,  St. White's  ,,  ,,
,,  Coleford  ,,  Viney Hill.
,,  Viney Hill  ,,  Purton Passage.
,,  Miry Stock  ,,  Lydbrook.
,,  Perry Grove  ,,  Clearwell.
,,  The Bearse  ,,  Bream.

At this time, therefore, so much of the ancient road as lay between
Mitcheldean and Nail Bridge was discarded for the present one, which
ascends the Stenders Hill by a more even <DW72>, and avoids the abrupt
rise of Harrow Hill.  The old line may yet be traced, and Nail Bridge
remains; in allusion to which improvements the following advertisement
appeared in _The Gloucester Journal_, Monday, Sept. 5, 1796:--"James
Graham, at the George Inn, Mitcheldean, has great pleasure in returning
his respectful thanks for the liberal support he has received, and
announces to the public that the new road through His Majesty's Forest of
Dean, leading from Mitcheldean to Coleford and Monmouth, which is the
high road from Gloucester to South Wales, is already greatly improved,
and in a short time will be equal to any in this part of the country.  It
is allowed that travellers will save a mile at least by taking this way
from Gloucester to Monmouth; and when accurately measured, it is imagined
that the saving will be found to be still greater.  Graham has laid in a
stock of admirable port and other wines, and every exertion will be made
for public accommodation.  Post chaises at 1s. per mile, and sober
drivers."

Nor was this advertisement a mere puff, as Mr. Budge, writing in the year
1803, states--"The great travelling road to Monmouth from Gloucester now
leads through Mitcheldean, which, with the good accommodation afforded to
travellers, will in process of time be probably the occasion of raising
it to a considerable rank among towns of this description."  Besides
which, there are sufficient intimations in the double approach to the
George Inn and large yard adjoining it, as well as in the capacious
stable-yards belonging to the other inns of the town, which is beset with
six toll-bars, that its character must have been such as is here given;
to which may also be added the numerous farmers' teams which were
constantly passing through the town to and from the collieries in the
Forest, in droves of ten or fifteen together, the bells on the horses
merrily jingling as they moved along.  Connected with which circumstance
it may be observed that the old roads of the district abound in
horsepools, or watering-places, wherever a spring could be made available
for their supply.  At this time the two Mitcheldean toll-bars, situated
on the Gloucester and Monmouth line of road, were let at 250 pounds per
annum.  The only link connecting in these respects the past with recent
times was supplied until the last five years by our old friend Mr.
Yearsley's coach, running three times a week between Coleford and
Gloucester.

For the next thirty years the Crown does not seem to have laid out any
money upon the Forest roads, although their condition was so bad that it
was urged as a reason for building churches and schools in the Forest,
those of the surrounding parishes not being readily accessible to the
inhabitants.  But in 1828 and the two following years the Roads Trustees
borrowed 5,000 pounds, with which they made the road


Leading from Park End to Bream      1.5 miles.
  ,,  Nail Bridge to Little Dean    3  ,,
  ,,  the White Oak to Lydbrook     1  ,,


besides widening and improving the road through Lydbrook for Bishopswood.
They likewise formed the road


Leading from Berry Hill to          1 mile.
Shortstanding
  ,,  Christ Church to Symmonds     2  ,,
Rock
  ,,  White Oak to Eastbatch Lane   .5  ,,
End


when other parts of the roads were also improved.

In 1841 the large sum of 5,000 pounds was expended by the Commissioners
in constructing roads


From Park End to Blakeney           5 miles.
  ,,  Nail Bridge to Mitcheldean    2  ,,
  ,,  Drybrook to the Bailey Lane   1.5 ,,
End
  ,,  Bishop's Wood to Nail         3.5 ,,
Bridge
  ,,  Long Stone, Berry Hill, and   2  ,,
Fetch Pit


To which may be added a short length of road made from the Hawthorns to
the top of the Stenders, by a grant from the Operatives' Relief Fund.
{197}

The total length of the roads comprised within the present limits of the
Forest is 41 miles 3 furlongs 31 yards.  The tolls are not let, but
collected in the name of the Commissioners, and yielded, in 1856, as
follows, at their respective gates:--


                   pounds.              _s._          _d._
Moseley                 26                18             7
Nibley                  97                16             6
Yorkley                 67                 7             9
Lydbrook               227                 2           1.5
<DW72> Pit               17                 8           7.5
Nail Bridge             19                18             1
Drybrook               205                 1             1
The Stenders            58                15          11.5
Plump Hill             144                16           7.5
Little Lane End         34                13            10
St. White's             81                19             8
Little Dean             99                 0             7
Woodside
Reden Horne             16                 7           8.5
Howler's Slade          14                19           8.5
Bream                   73                12             6
Park End               145                 5           2.5
                       ---                --            --
           Total     1,331                 4           7.5


All these roads are now in excellent repair, but they have been,
nevertheless, compelled to yield to the superior advantages of the
railway system, here grafted, as is the case in some other places, upon
the useful but less perfect tramway. {198}

In the years 1809 and 1810 a local Act authorised the construction of an
extensive system of tramways throughout the Forest, under the auspices of
"the Severn and Wye" and "Bullo Pill" Companies, traversing respectively
the western and eastern sides of the district.  The latter of these, the
tramway which descends the eastern valley through Cinderford and Sowdley
to the Severn, passed into the hands of the South Wales Railway Company,
who purchased it in 1849, with the view of forming it into a locomotive
road; and this they effected after great difficulty, in consequence of
being obliged to carry on the trade upon the tramway at the same time,
and opened it on the 14th July, 1854.  Its present length, extending from
Bullo Pill to the Churchway Colliery, is nearly seven miles.  There is a
branch from it of three-quarters of a mile to the Whimsey, another of one
mile and a half to the Lightmoor Colliery, one of three-quarters of a
mile to the Crump Meadow Colliery, one of a quarter of a mile to the
Nelson Colliery, and a shorter one to the Regulator Pits.  It is a single
line, constructed throughout on the broad-gauge principle, and for the
present only conveys minerals.  A central line, in addition to the above,
is in course of formation.  The tramway of "the Severn and Wye Company,"
on the west side of the Forest, has not been materially altered.




CHAPTER XIII.


The deer of the Forest, and its timber, plants, birds, ferns, and early
allusions to the Forest deer--The Court of Swainmote, by which they were
preserved--Act of 1668 regarding them--Reports of the Chief Forester in
Fee and Bowbearer, and Verderers, in 1788, respecting the deer--Mr.
Machen's memoranda on the same subject--Their removal in 1849--The birds
of the Forest--Unforestlike aspect of the Forest, now, compared with its
former condition--Successive reductions of its timber--Its oldest
existing trees described--Present appearance of the young woods--Table of
the Timber Stock, from time to time, during the last 200 years--An
account of the rarer plants and ferns.

The earliest allusion to deer in the Forest is, as might be expected,
coeval with its being constituted a royal domain.  William the Conqueror
is said to have been hunting here when he first heard of the taking of
York by the Danes in August, 1069.  In Henry I.'s reign the deer were so
numerous as to make the tithes of them worthy of being given as a royal
present by that king to the Abbey of Gloucester, which city, says
Geraldus, was supplied with venison from the Forest of Dean; and the
frequent visits of King John to Flaxley Abbey and to the Castle of St.
Briavel's during the latter years of his reign, arose probably from the
abundant sport the neighbourhood afforded him.

The deer of the King's forests were preserved in ancient times with the
greatest care by the execution of certain laws, administered by a
Swainmote Court, which was regulated by officers called Verderers,
Foresters, and Agisters, who disposed of all cases in which deer were
killed without warrant: not that any man was to lose either life or limb,
as formerly, for so doing; but he was to be heavily fined if he had
property, or, if not, to be imprisoned a year and a day, and be then
released, if he could find sufficient securities, or be abjured the
realm.  A curious exception existed, however, in the case of any
archbishop, bishop, earl, or baron summoned to the King, and by the way
passing through a royal forest, when it was lawful for him to "take and
kill one or two deer, by the view of the Forester, if he be present, or
else shall cause one to blow an horne for him that he seem not to steal
the deer."  At the fawning season, or "fence-month," as it was called,
commencing fifteen days before and ending fifteen days after
Midsummer-day, the Forest officers attended within their own walks, and
required all manner of dogs to be kept in at the peril of the owner,
bringing before the verderers any persons found hunting or out of the
highway with a bow or gun, or gathering rushes or bents, or driving swine
or cattle, to the hurt or disquiet of the deer.  They were also charged
at all times with the preservation of the vert or underwood, on account
of the shelter and food it afforded the deer.

     [Picture: The Tomb of John de Yrall, Forester in Fee, in Newland
   Churchyard.  Round the sides of the Tomb is this inscription, in old
  characters--"Here : lythe : Ion : Wyrall : Forster : of : Fee : the :
  whych : dysesyd : on : the : VIII : day : of : September : in :  ye :
yeare of oure Lorde : m.cccc.lviii. on : hys : Soule : God : have : Mercy
                                : Amen."]

By the Act of 1668 it is provided, that, "should His Majesty think fit to
restore the game of deer within the said Forrest, the same shall not
exceed the number of 800 deer of all sorts at any one time;" intimating
that during the Civil War, and the period of the Commonwealth, that
kingly pastime had been discontinued.  The same Act directs that "the
owners, tenants, &c., of any of the several lands lying within the bounds
of the Forest may keep any sort of dogs inexpediated to hunt and kill any
beast of chase or other game," except during "the fence month," and "the
time of the winter heyning, viz. from the 11th of November to the 23rd of
April," when all rights of common were to be in abeyance.

Charles Edwin, Esq., "Chief Forester in Fee and Bowbearer," in 1787,
stated to the Commissioners that he claimed by virtue of his office to be
entitled to the right shoulder of all bucks and does killed within the
Forest, and also to ten fee bucks and ten fee does, annually to be there
killed and taken at his own free will and pleasure, with licence to hawk,
hunt, fish, and fowl within the Forest."  As bowbearer, it was his duty
"to attend His Majesty with a bow and arrow, and six men clothed in
green, whenever His Majesty shall be pleased to hunt within the said
Forest."  Edmund Probyn, Esq., one of the Verderers of the Forest, stated
at the same time, that the number of bucks and does which it contained
could not be ascertained; but it was much understocked, so that the
warrants were sometimes sent back unexecuted."  Until the deer were
removed, each of the four verderers was entitled to a buck and a doe
every year.

                     [Picture: The King's Bowbearer]

"When I first remember the Forest," Mr. Machen remarks, in his private
papers, "now 65 years since, the deer were very numerous.  I recollect my
father taking me up to the Buckholt in an evening for the purpose of
showing them to me, and we never failed of seeing several:" this was
about 1790.  "From that time for 20 years, in consequence of the decrease
of the covert and the increase of poachers, they rapidly diminished,
until in 1810, when I do not believe there were ten in the whole Forest.
At this period the enclosures were made for the preservation of timber,
and woodmen appointed to the care of them; the few deer that were left
were protected, and as the young trees grew up so as to afford them
shelter, they rapidly increased, and in thirty years, viz. in 1840, I
should think there were not less than 800 or 1000 deer in the Forest."

"The red deer were introduced in 1842 by Mr. Herring, who brought down on
24th February, from Woburn, two stags and four hinds.  They were in fine
condition, and were turned loose in Russell's Enclosure, one mile from
the Speech-house."  Mr. Machen further notes as follows:

"October, 1842.--Two of the hinds have calves with them."

"October 20th.--One of the stags was hunted from Trippenkennet, in
Herefordshire, and swam the Wye three times: the hounds brought him into
Nag's Head Enclosure."

"July, 1844.--Two stags, three hinds, and a calf are now in Park Hill
Enclosure, and are frequently seen in the meadow in front of Whitemead.
One old stag is at Edge Hills.  A hind is sometimes seen in the
Highmeadow Woods, and it is known that one was killed there."

"October.--A young hind was sent down, and turned out in Haywood
Enclosure."

"October, 1845.--The two old stags are wandering about, and seldom in the
Forest."

"October 4.--Hunted the stag near Park End; ran four hours, but lost him,
night coming on."

"September 20th, 1846.--The stag that was about Staunton and Newland was
killed this day, after a run of three hours.  He was found on the old
hills near Newland, and killed in Coleford.  This was a four years old
deer, calved in the Forest; the hind and calf went to Staunton, and never
returned: the hind was killed by poachers.  The venison of the stag was
excellent: the haunches were 45 lbs. each."

"October, 1847.--Another stag was killed after a good run.  Two were
found, and ran some time together before the hounds in Park Hill."

"October 6, 1848.--The last stag returned to the Forest, after having
been in the woods, &c., near Chepstow almost a year.  He was found in
Oaken Hill, and killed, after a run of three hours, in Sallow Vallets.
His haunches weighed 51 lbs., and the whole weight 307 lbs."

"The fallow deer of the Forest were reduced in number after the year 1850
by killing a large number of does.  They were all fine animals, and when
the enclosures protected them they got very fat, and the venison of fine
flavour.  They were generally hunted."

At the time of Lord Duncan's Committee in 1849 a general feeling
prevailed against the deer, on the ground of their demoralising influence
as an inducement to poaching, and all were ordered to be destroyed, there
being at that time perhaps 150 bucks and 300 does.

The remarks "Going after the deer," or "You don't, may be, want to buy
some meat?" are no doubt fresh in the recollection of many.  Going about
with guns, in numbers too formidable for the keepers to interfere,
shooting the deer by day, and carrying them off at night, were by no
means uncommon.  Poachers of a poorer and more primitive stamp are said
to have resorted to the expedient of dropping a heavy iron bar from where
they had secreted themselves, on the projecting branch of an oak, so that
it might fall across the neck of the deer which had come to browse
beneath.  Or they baited a large hook with an apple, and suspended it at
a proper height by a stout cord over a path which the deer were observed
to frequent.  They also were known to set a number of nooses of iron wire
in a row, skilfully fastened to a rope secured to a couple of trees, into
which, aided by dogs, they drove the deer.  With such kind of sport at
command, we may be well assured of the truth of Mr. Nicholson's statement
before Lord Duncan's Committee--"if once men begin to poach, we can never
reckon upon their working afterwards."  Ornamental to a forest as deer
undoubtedly are, and disappointing as it may be to the stranger to find
none in the Forest of Dean, we cannot regret that, in 1855, Mr. Machen
records, "there is not now a deer left in the Forest, and only a few
stragglers in the Highmeadow Woods."'

Besides deer inhabiting the Forest from the earliest times, no doubt it
was also frequented by all such animals as used to be accounted "beasts
of the forest," viz. the hare, boar, and wolf, in addition to the hart
and hind.

Adverting to the feathered tribes which have been observed in this
neighbourhood, Mr. Machen remarks--"The birds in the Forest do not differ
much from those met with in other parts of the west of England.  I have
been struck with the contrast in the smaller number of large birds,
mostly of the falcon kind, which are now seen, in comparison with those I
remember fifty years ago.  At that time you might often observe fifteen
or twenty kites and hawks hovering over Church Hill and the Bicknor
walks; but now it is not frequently the case that you see one.  It
appears to me also that there is a great diminution in the number of all
kinds of birds, small as well as large, so that in some parts of the
Forest and woods the stillness and absence of animals of every kind is
surprising.  Ravens too have become very scarce.  A pair had a nest by
Simmon's Rock this year (1857), but they are said to drive their young to
a distance as soon as they can provide for themselves.  The only kind of
plover in the Forest is the green plover or lapwing, which were very
numerous at one time in the wet greens.  Woodcocks used to be thought
never to breed in this country, but they certainly do so now.  In this
Forest and in other places I have frequently seen them during the summer,
and have observed their nests, made on the ground, of slight
construction.  One above Whitemead had only two eggs.  When the
plantations were first made, they became, even in the centre of them,
well stocked with partridges; but as the woods grew up they all
disappeared.  Pheasants were turned out by me at Whitemead, and soon
spread over the whole Forest.  At one time there was a good stock, but
lately they are much reduced.  There are a great variety of woodpeckers,
which do not, I think, hurt sound trees, but rather those which they find
already decaying.  Fieldfares and redwings come in great numbers.
Nightingales are not numerous in the Forest, although they abound in the
neighbourhood.  They do not like its depths, or large trees hollow below;
but prefer a thick close cover, and the vicinity of a road or path where
the bushes are low and thick: but I never heard one in the middle of the
Forest.  Although a country like this seems unsuited to the wheatear, as
preferring the Downs of Sussex, &c., still they come here in the spring,
and are generally seen by the roads, or on stone walls in which they
build their nests, and even in the heaps of stones, as also in the rails
of bark.  I remember that beautiful bird, the kingfisher, by the Forest
brooks, but now you never see one.  Flocks of rooks sometimes come into
the neighbourhood when the oaks are much blighted, to feed on the grubs,
and in such quantities that the trees are quite black with them.  They
come from a distance, as they are not seen at other times, and never
breed in the Forest."

Mr. Gee, speaking of the birds which he has observed on the north-east
side of the Forest, states--"The raven is seen more frequently in the
neighbourhood than in most parts of England: his croak over head is not
at all an uncommon sound.  A pair of buzzards will occasionally circle
aloft for a considerable time.  The snipe is found very early on the
Forest, so much so that I have known in the month of July six killed in a
day.  The jack snipe particularly abounds about 'the Dam Pool.'  The
bittern has been twice shot near the same spot within the last twenty
years.  The seagull skims over occasionally from the Severn side.  The
water-ousel is frequently met with on the Forest brooks.  The cross-bill
comes sometimes into the neighbourhood.  The turtle-dove particularly
abounds, so that in early summer our woods are in a charm with their soft
purring.  The fern owls are very numerous.  I once came on a considerable
flock of the rare bird, the siskin.  The titmouse tribe are abundant; but
we never see the rarer species, the bearded or the crested tit.  The
chats and the wheatear are of course common.  The woodpeckers are very
common: even the two pied species might be obtained here with very little
trouble.  We are all over willow wrens in the spring.  On the whole, I
should say that it is a neighbourhood unfavourable for the observation of
birds; and yet, were an observant naturalist to come among us, he would
soon astonish us by what he would discover."



THE TIMBER.


Most strangers visiting the Forest do so in the expectation of seeing
groves of stately timber covering the ground in every direction, and are
much disappointed when they find the greater part to consist of oaks,
barely fifty years old, comprised in enclosures, and the remainder of the
surface disfigured by furnaces, collieries, and groups of inferior
buildings.  The Forest as it existed in the days of the Norman and
Plantagenet kings, William I. and John, who resorted to it for the
pleasures of the chase, when its dark recesses often concealed noble
fugitives, or disposed its population to habits of violence and plunder,
or at a still later period, when its stately trees had become objects of
apprehension or jealousy to the Spaniards, was widely different from what
it is at present.  Few of the trees of those days have survived the
fellings, spoliations, and storms of succeeding ages.  According to Mr.
Pepys, "a great fall" in Edward III.'s reign left only those which in his
time were called "forbid trees," to be further reduced by the
requirements of seventy-two iron forges, which then lit up the district,
or the yet more voracious furnaces by which they were succeeded.  One
storm alone, viz. that of the 18th of February, 1662, prostrated in one
night 1,000 oaks, and as many beech, whilst only 200 were, it is said,
left standing after the wholesale fellings perpetrated by Sir John
Winter.  Of these select few, the venerable "Jack of the Yat," near the
Coleford and Mitcheldean Road on the top of "The Long Hill," appears to
be one.

                       [Picture: "Jack of the Yat"]

Mr. Machen thinks it the most ancient tree in the Forest, and probably
four or five hundred years old.  It is of the Quercus robur kind, or old
English oak, the stalks of its acorns being long, with rarely more than
one acorn on a stalk, and the stalks of its leaves short.  A few years
back it was struck by lightning, which has left a deep groove on its
trunk.  In 1830 it measured, at 6 feet from the ground, 17 feet 8.75
inches; and in 1846 upwards of 18 feet 3.5 inches: but it has long since
passed its prime. {208}  Two other oaks, similar in form, and fully as
large in girth, yet exist, but in a decaying state, on Shapridge.

                      [Picture: The "Newland Oak."]

There are other trees approaching in age to the above, viz. an oak in
Sallow Vallets Enclosure near the Drive, of the Quercus sessiliflora
kind, its leaves growing on long stalks, and the acorns clustering
together on short stalks, and perhaps 200 years old, being 13 feet round
at 6 feet from the ground, and still in a very flourishing condition.
Another oak-tree, near York Lodge, measuring 21 feet round, formed
apparently of two trees which grew together for ages, but not long since
threatened to fall asunder, necessitating their being cramped up across
the head by a transverse iron bar.  At the Brookhall Ditches also there
is an oak entirely variegated, containing 100 feet of timber; besides
several other fine trees near.  There are five very large beech-trees
growing about two miles from Coleford on the road to Mitcheldean, and
others likewise, almost as large, on the Blaize Bailey, besides several
more near Danby Lodge; but the finest of all the beeches in the Forest is
near the entrance to Whitemead Park, near York Lodge, measuring 17 feet
at 6 feet from the ground.  Most of the lesser oaks which have become
timber, and have not been removed by the recent "falls," are probably the
remains of the plantations made in 1670, such as the various flourishing
oaks which may be noticed near the Speech House, on the Lea Bailey, the
Lining Wood, and in a few other places.  Many of the old hollies seem to
belong to the same date, being either indigenous, or planted about this
time to serve as food for the deer.  One of the largest of those growing
near the Speech House measures 9 feet in girth at 4 feet from the ground.

                    [Picture: An Oak, near York Lodge]

During the earlier half of the last century the devastations were so
rapid as to necessitate re-enclosing and re-planting various parts, about
the year 1760; but the effort to restock the whole of the Forest as it
now appears was reserved to 1810 and the thirty subsequent years.  Its
present aspect, with very few exceptions, is such as to afford the best
hopes that by the close of the present century a large proportion of the
woods will be yielding profitable timber, provided the crops be duly
protected from injury, which otherwise the rapidly increasing population
of the neighbourhood will too surely occasion.  Nine-tenths of the
present stock are oaks; the rest are Spanish chesnuts, Scotch fir, larch,
spruce, beech, and a few elms, sycamores, and horse-chesnuts; birch grows
spontaneously in most parts of the Forest.

The following Table exhibits the quantity of timber growing at different
times in the Forest within the last two hundred years.


A.D.             Tons.              Cords.      Loads fit
                                                for the
                                                Navy.
1635            61,928              153,209     14,350      The trees
                                                            generally
                                                            decayed;
                                                            about 500
                                                            past their
                                                            full growth.
1662            25,929  Oak         121,500     11,335
                 4,204  Beech
               -------
                30,133                                      (30,000 old
                                                            trees.)
1764                                            27,302
1783            90,382  Oak                     95,043
                17,982  Beech
               -------
               108,364
1788                                            48,000
1808                                            22,882
1857            10,000                                      About 5,000
                                                            trees, 7,500
                                                            having been
                                                            felled since
                                                            1845.


With respect to the rarer plants found in the neighbourhood, it may be
observed that the walk by the side of the Wye from Ross to Chepstow is
said to be the most productive in objects of botanical interest of any
part of England.  The following list, kindly furnished by Mr. Gee,
applies chiefly to the north-east section of the Forest and its
vicinity:--

    _Toothwort_ (Lathraea squamaria), at the Scowles above the Lining
    Wood.
    _Bog Asphodel_ (Narthecium ossifragum), in the Mitcheldean Meand
    Enclosure.
    _Gentian_ (Gentiana amarella), Limestone Quarry near Silverstone, at
    the Hawthorns.
    _Winter Green_ (Payrola media), Hare Church Hill.
    _Bog Pimpernel_ (Anagallis tenella), Purlieu Road.
    _Sundews_ (Drosera rotundifolia and longifolia), Mitcheldean Meand.
    _Little Sallow_ (Salix repens), Mitcheldean Meand.
    _Viola lactea_, Mitcheldean Meand.
    _Cotton Grass_ (Eriophorum angustifolium), Mitcheldean Meand.
    _Petty Whin_ (Genista Anglica), the waste between the Dampool and the
    Speech House.
    _Gromwell_ (Lithospermum officinale), throughout the Forest.
    _Bee Orchis_ (Ophrys apifera), road to Bishopswood.
    _Services_ (Pyrus pinnatifida and aria), Bicknor Rocks.
    _Barberry_ (Berberis vulgaris), Bicknor Rocks.
    _Cotyledon umbilicus_, Purlieu Road.
    _Narcissus biflorus_, Hope Mansel.
    _Mentha piperita_, Bishopswood.

    Mr. Bird has been so good as to supply the accompanying list of
    Forest Ferns:--

    Scolopendrium ceterach, and S. vulgare.
    Polypodium vulgare.  Blechnum boreale.
      ,,    phegopteris.  Pteris aquilina.
      ,,    dryopteris.
    Aspidium lobatum, and Filix mas and spinulosum, dilatatum, Ruta
    muraria, Trichomanes, Adiantum nigrum, Filix foemina.

To which may be added the Polypodium calcareum, noticed by Mr. Anderson,
of the Bailey Lodge, who further states that the Daphne Mezereon shrub,
as well as the wood laurel, are indigenous in the Forest, especially in
the coppices on the limestone.




CHAPTER XIV.


_The Iron Mines and Iron Works in the Forest_--Mr. Wyrrall's description
of the ancient excavations for iron--Their remote antiquity proved, and
character described--Historical allusions to them--The quality,
abundance, and situation of the old iron cinders--The early forges
described--Portrait of an original free miner of iron ore--His
tools--Introduction of the blast furnace into the Forest--Various Crown
leases respecting them--A minute inventory of them--Mr. Wyrrall's
glossary of terms found therein--Mr. Mushet's remarks on the remains of
the above works--First attempts to use prepared coal in the
furnaces--Iron-works suppressed--Value of iron ore at that time--Dr.
Parsons's account of the manner of making iron--State of the adjoining
iron-works during the seventeenth century--Revival of them at its
close--Their rise and prosperity since--At Cinderford, Park End, Sowdley,
Lydbrook, and Lydney--Character of the iron-mines at the present time.

"There are," writes Mr. Wyrrall, in his valuable MS. on the ancient
iron-works of the Forest, dated in the year 1780, "deep in the earth vast
caverns scooped out by men's hands, and large as the aisles of churches;
and on its surface are extensive labyrinths, worked among the rocks, and
now long since overgrown with woods; which whosoever traces them must see
with astonishment, and incline to think them to have been the work of
armies rather than of private labourers.  They certainly were the toil of
many centuries, and this perhaps before they thought of searching in the
bowels of the earth for their ore--whither, however, they at length
naturally pursued the veins, as they found them to be exhausted near the
surface."  Such were the remains, as they existed in his day, of the
original iron-mines of this locality; and except where modern operations
have obliterated them, such they continue to the present time.  Beyond
the inference of remote antiquity, which we naturally draw from the fact
of their presenting no trace of the use of any kind of machinery, or of
gunpowder, or the display of any mining skill, we may cite the unanimous
opinion of the neighbourhood, that they owe their origin to the
predecessors of that peculiar order of operatives known as "the free
miners of the Forest of Dean;" a view which is confirmed by the authentic
history of the district.  But the numerous Roman relics found deeply
buried in the prodigious accumulations of iron cinders, once so abundant
here as to have formed an important part of the materials supplied to the
furnaces of the Forest, afford proof that the iron-mines were in
existence as early as the commencement of the Christian era; so that the
openings we now see are the results of many centuries of mining
operations, with which their extent, number, and size perfectly accord.

                      [Picture: The Devil's Chapel]

These mines present the appearance either of spacious caves, as on the
Doward Hill, or at the Scowles near Bream, or they consist of precipitous
and irregularly shaped passages, left by the removal of the ore or
mineral earth wherever it was found, and which was followed in some
instances for many hundreds of yards, openings being made to the surface
wherever the course of the mine permitted, thus securing an efficient
ventilation, so that although they have been so long deserted the air in
them is perfectly good.  They are also quite dry, owing probably to their
being drained by the new workings adjacent to them, and descending to a
far greater depth.  In the first instance they were no doubt excavated as
deep as the water permitted, that is, to about 100 feet, or in dry
seasons even lower, as is in fact proved by the water-marks left in some
of them.  Occasionally they are found adorned with beautiful
incrustations of the purest white, formed by springs of carbonate of
lime, originating in the rocky walls of limestone around.  Sometimes,
after proceeding a considerable distance, they suddenly open out into
spacious vaults fifteen feet in width, the site probably of some valuable
"pocket" or "churn" of ore; and then again, where the supply was less
abundant, narrowing into a width hardly sufficient to admit the human
body.  Occasionally the passage divides and unites again, or abruptly
stops, turning off at a sharp angle, or changing its level, where rude
steps cut in the rock show the mode by which the old miners ascended or
descended; whilst sometimes the rounds of ladders have been found,
semi-carbonized by age.  These excavations abound on every side of the
Forest, wherever the iron makes its appearance, giving the name of
"Meand" or mine to such places.  Of the deeper workings, one of the most
extensive occurs on the Lining Wood Hill above Mitcheldean, and is well
worth exploring.

The earliest historical allusion to these underground works is made by
Camden, who records that a gigantic skeleton was found in a cave on the
Great Doward Hill, now called "King Arthur's Hall," being evidently the
entrance to an ancient iron-mine.  The next refers to the period of the
Great Rebellion, when the terrified inhabitants of the district are said
to have fled to them for safety when pursued by the hostile soldiery of
either party.

                     [Picture: "King Arthur's Hall"]

Adverting, in the next place, to the heaps of cinders left where the
ancient iron-manufacturers of the district worked, their _quality_,
_abundance_, and _situation_ suggest several interesting points of
observation.  Thus, their _quality_ proves that charcoal was the fuel
invariably employed, and the large percentage of metal left in them shows
that the process then in use of extracting the iron was very imperfect.
They are said to vary in richness according as they belong to an earlier
or later period--so much so, that some persons have ventured on this data
to specify their relative ages; but other causes may have produced this
difference.  As to their _quantity_, it was once so great, that, although
they have formed a large part of the mineral supply to the different
furnaces of the district for the last 200 years, they still abound for
miles round the Forest, wherever human habitations appear to have
clustered, sometimes giving the names to places, as "Cinderford" and
"Cinder Hill," or forming a valuable consideration in the purchase of
land containing them.

Equally remarkable with the two former characteristics of these cinders
is their _position_, not unfrequently on elevated spots and far removed
from any watercourse.  Under such circumstances, the high temperature
necessary for acting upon the ore must have been obtained by constructing
the fireplace so as to create a powerful draft of air, the fuel and
mineral being placed alternately in layers within a circular structure of
stone, resembling the rude furnaces said to be used amongst the natives
of central Africa.

The "_forgioe errantes_," or itinerant forges, {216} mentioned in the
records of the Justice Seat held at Gloucester Castle in 1282, were no
doubt improvements on the structures just mentioned, being at the same
time so formed as to admit of being removed and set at work elsewhere, as
is in fact intimated by the name given to them, as well as by the more
frequent occurrence and smaller size of those cinder-heaps which are
found nearer to the centre of the Forest; and consequently of more modern
date, presenting a striking contrast to the larger and more ancient
mounds existing in places more remote, the refuse of the earlier forges
kept at work for many years in one spot.

The moderate capacity of the _forgioe errantes_ may be inferred from the
circumstance that in the reign of Edward I. there were seventy-two of
them in the Forest alone, supplied with ore by at least fifty-nine
iron-mines, by which Gloucester, Monmouth, Caerleon, Newport, Berkeley,
Trelleck, &c., are stated in the Book of the Laws and Customs of the Mine
to have been furnished with that metal.  We also know that the two forges
at Flaxley consumed two oaks every week, and that in that age 46 pounds
was paid to the King by such persons as farmed any of them, or 7s. if
they held a year's licence.

In the year 1841, when that part of the old road leading up to the
Hawthorns from Hownal was altered, near the brook below Rudge Farm, the
hearths of five small forges, cut out of the sandstone rock, and
curiously pitched all round the bottom with small pebbles, were laid
open, and an iron tube seven or eight inches long, and one inch and a
half bore, apparently the nozzle of a pair of bellows, was found, as well
as scores of old tobacco pipes, bits of iron much rusted, and broken
earthenware, besides a piece of silver coin; but unfortunately none of
these relics have been preserved.

                 [Picture: Effigy of a Forest Free Miner]

The heraldic crest here copied from a mutilated brass of the 15th
century, within the Clearwell Chapel of Newland Church, gives a curious
representation of the iron-miner of that period equipped for his work.
It represents him as wearing a cap, holding a candlestick between his
teeth, handling a small mattock with which to loosen, as occasion
required, the fine mineral earth lodged in the cavity within which he
worked, or else to detach the metallic incrustations lining its sides,
bearing a light wooden mine-hod on his back, suspended by a
shoulderstrap, and clothed in a thick flannel jacket, and short leathern
breeches, tied with thongs below the knee.  Although in this
representation the lower extremities are concealed, the numerous
shoe-footed marks yet visible on the moist beds of some of the old
excavations prove that the feet were well protected from injury by the
rough rocks of the workings.  Several mattock-heads exactly resembling
the one which this miner is holding have also been discovered; and to
enable us, as it were, to supply every particular, small oak shovels for
collecting the ore, and putting it into the hod, have in some places been
found.

                    [Picture: Leather sole of a Shoe]

                       [Picture: Iron Mattock head]

The mining and making of iron continued to be carried on in the Forest in
the manner indicated by the foregoing particulars, until the improved
methods of manufacture established in other parts of the kingdom,
particularly in Sussex, had been adopted here.  As early probably as the
commencement of the reign of Elizabeth, these improvements came into use
in this locality, and superseded the old "make."  It was for its
iron-mines, even more than for its timber, that this Forest excited the
jealousy of the Spaniards, who designed to suppress the former by
destroying the charcoal fuel with which they were worked.

                          [Picture: Oak Shovel]

The earliest intimation of any such change in the mode of manufacture
occurs in the terms of a "bargayne," made by the Crown, and preserved in
the Lansdowne MSS. "wth Giles Brudges and others," on 14th June, 1611,
demising "libertye to erect all manner of workes, iron or other, by lande
or water, excepting Wyer workes, and the same to pull downe, remove, and
alter att pleasure," with "libertye to take myne oare and synders, either
to be used att the workes or otherwise," &c.  By "synders" is meant the
refuse of the old forges, but which by the new process could be made to
yield a profitable percentage of metal which the former method had failed
to extract.  In the year following a similar "bargayne" was made with
William Earl of Pembroke, at the enormous rental of 2,433 pounds 6s. 3d.,
but with leave to take "tymbr for buildinges & workes as they were," with
"allowance of reasonable fireboote for the workmen out of the dead & dry
wood, &c., to inclose a garden not exceedinge halfe an acre to every
house, and likewise to inclose for the necessity of the worke; the houses
and inclosures to bee pulled downe & layd open as the workes shall cease
or remove."  A third and corresponding "bargayne" was agreed to, on the
3rd of May, 1615, with Sir Basil Brook, there being reserved in rent
"iron 320 tonns p. annum, wch att xiill xs the tone cometh to 4,000 per
an.: the rent reserved to be payd in iron by 40 tonns p. month, wch
cometh to 500ll every month; so in toto yearelye 4,000ll;" and a proviso
that "The workes already buylt onlye granted, wth no power to remove
them, but bound to mayntayne and leave them in good case and repayre, wth
all stock of hammers, anvil's, and other necessarys received att the
pattentees' entrye," as also that "libertye for myne and synders for
supplying of the workes onlye, to be taken by delivery of the miners att
the price agreed uppon."

In 1621 Messrs. Chaloner and Harris appear to have succeeded to the works
under a rent of 2,000 pounds, and who, we may presume, cast the 610 guns
ordered by the Crown on behalf of the States General of Holland in 1629.
The spot where they were made was, it would seem, ever after called "Guns
Mills."  It certainly was so called as early as the year 1680, an
explanation of the term which is confirmed by the discovery there of an
ancient piece of ordnance.  "Guns Pill" was the place where they were
afterwards shipped.

A curious inventory, dated 1635, of the buildings and machinery referred
to in the forenamed "bargaynes," has been preserved amongst the Wyrrall
Papers, and is inserted in the Appendix No. IV.

As to the length of time the works specified in Appendix No. IV.
continued in operation, the late Mr. Mushet, who knew the neighbourhood
intimately, in his valuable "Papers on Iron," &c., considers that they
were finally abandoned shortly after that date (1635), since, "with the
exception of the slags, traces of the water mounds, and the faint lines
of the watercourses, not a vestige of any of them remains."  He adds,
"About fourteen years ago I first saw the ruins of one of these furnaces,
situated below York Lodge, and surrounded by a large heap of slag or
scoria that is produced in making pig iron.  As the situation of this
furnace was remote from roads, and must at one time have been deemed
nearly inaccessible, it had all the appearance at the time of my survey
of having remained in the same state for nearly two centuries.  The
quantity of slags I computed at from 8,000 to 10,000 tons.  If it is
assumed that this furnace made upon an average annually 200 tons of pig
iron, and that the quantity of slag run from the furnace was equal to one
half the quantity of iron made, we shall have 100 tons of cinders
annually, for a period of from 80 to 100 years.  If the abandonment of
this furnace took place about the year 1640, the commencement of its
smeltings must be assigned to a period between the years 1540 and 1560."

The oldest piece of cast iron which Mr. Mushet states he ever saw,
exhibited the arms of England, with the initials E. R., and bore date
1555, but he found no specimen in the Forest earlier than 1620.  He also
observes, that, "although he had carefully examined every spot and relic
in Dean Forest likely to denote the site of Dud Dudley's enterprising but
unfortunate experiment of making iron with pit coal," it had been without
success, and the same with the like operations of Cromwell, who was
partner with Major Wildman, Captain Birch, and other of his officers,
Doctors of Physic and Merchants, by whom works and furnaces had been set
up in the Forest, at a vast charge.

In 1650 a Committee of the House of Commons ordered that all the
iron-works in the Forest, formerly let on lease by the Crown, should be
suppressed and demolished, partly perhaps with the view of checking the
consumption of wood, and also to put a stop to the making of cannon and
shot, lest when the occasion invited they should be seized by the adverse
party and turned against them.  The Royalists had already found here a
valuable store of such things at the time they were defending Bristol
against Fairfax.

How far the above mandate was obeyed does not appear, but ere the year
1674 a general decay seems to have fallen on the Forest works, as in that
year the expediency of repairing them, and building an additional furnace
and two forges, at the cost of 1,000 pounds, was suggested.  The opposite
course was, however, recommended, that is, of demolishing them all, lest
they should ultimately cause the destruction of the wood and timber, a
course which it seems was followed, since in the 4th order of the Mine
Law Court, dated 27th April, 1680, they are stated to have been lately
demolished.  The same "Order" fixes the following prices as those at
which twelve Winchester bushels of iron mine should be delivered at the
following places:--St. Wonnarth's furnace 10s., Whitchurch 7s., Linton
9s., Bishopswood 9s., Longhope 9s., Flaxley 8s., Gunsmills (if rebuilt)
7s., Blakeney 6s., Lydney 6s.; at those in the Forest, if rebuilt, the
same as in 1668--Redbrooke 4s. 6d., The Abbey (Tintern) 9s., Brockweare
6s. 6d., Redbrooke Passage 5s. 6d., Gunpill 7s., or ore (intended for
Ireland) shipped on the Severn 6s. 6d.

Most of these localities exhibit traces of former iron manufacture having
been carried on at them up to the commencement of that century, as at
Flaxley, Bishopswood, &c., charcoal being the fuel invariably used, and
their situation such that water power was at command.  The prices
severally affixed to the places above named indicate a discontinuance of
the mines on the north-east side of the Forest, those adjoining Newland
and in Noxon Park being at this date the chief sources of supply,
agreeably with the allusions to iron-pits existing there which occur in
the proceedings of the Mine Law Court about that time.  The mode then in
use of operating upon the iron ore, as described in MS. by Dr. Parsons,
will be found in Appendix No. V.

Andrew Yarranton, in his book of novel suggestions for the "Improvement
of England by Sea and Land," printed in 1677, remarks as follows:--"And
first, I will begin in Monmouthshire, and go through the Forest of Dean,
and there take notice what infinite quantities of raw iron is there made,
with bar iron and wire; and consider the infinite number of men, horses,
and carriages which are to supply these works, and also digging of
ironstone, providing of cinders, carrying to the works, making it into
sows and bars, cutting of wood and converting into charcoal.  Consider
also, in all these parts, the woods are not worth the cutting and
bringing home by the owners to burn in their houses; and it is because in
all these places there are pit coal very cheap . . .  If these advantages
were not there, it would be little less than a howling wilderness.  I
believe, if this comes to the hands of Sir Baynom Frogmorton and Sir
Duncomb Colchester, they will be on my side.  Moreover, there is yet a
most great benefit to the kingdom in general by the sow iron made of the
ironstone and Roman cinders in the Forest of Dean, for that metal is of a
most gentle, pliable, soft nature, easily and quickly to be wrought into
manufacture, over what any other iron is, and it is the best in the known
world: and the greatest part of this sow iron is sent up Severne to the
forges into Worcester, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Warwickshire, and
Cheshire, and there it's made into bar iron: and because of its kind and
gentle nature to work, it is now at Sturbridge, Dudley, Wolverhampton,
Sedgley, Wasall, and Burmingham, and there bent, wrought, and
manufactured into all small commodities, and diffused all England over,
and thereby a great trade made of it; and when manufactured, into most
parts of the world.  And I can very easily make it appear, that in the
Forest of Dean and thereabouts, and about the material that comes from
thence, there are employed and have their subsistence therefrom no less
than 60,000 persons.  And certainly, if this be true, then it is certain
it is better these iron-works were up and in being than that there were
none.  And it were well if there were an Act of Parliament for enclosing
all common fit or any way likely to bear wood in the Forest of Dean and
six miles round the Forest; and that great quantities of timber might by
the same law be there preserved, for to supply in future ages timber for
shipping and building.  And I dare say the Forest of Dean is, as to the
iron, to be compared to the sheep's back as to the woollen; nothing being
of more advantage to England than these two are . . .

"In the Forest of Dean and thereabouts the iron is made at this day of
cinders, being the rough and offal thrown by in the Romans' time; they
then having only foot blasts to melt the ironstone, but now, by the force
of a great wheel that drives a pair of bellows twenty feet long, all that
iron is extracted out of the cinders, which could not be forced from it
by the Roman foot blast.  And in the Forest of Dean and thereabouts, and
as high as Worcester, there are great and infinite quantities of these
cinders; some in vast mounts above ground, some under ground, which will
supply the iron-works some hundreds of years, and these cinders are they
which make the prime and best iron, and with much less charcoal than doth
the ironstone . . .  Let there be one ton of this bar-iron made of Forest
ironstone, and 20 pounds will be given for it."

According to a paper examined by Mr. Mushet, and referring probably to
the year 1720 or 1730, the iron-making district of the Forest of Dean
contained ten blast furnaces, viz. six in Gloucestershire, three in
Herefordshire, and one at Tintern, making their total number just equal
to that of the then iron-making district of Sussex.  In Mr. Taylor's map
of Gloucestershire, published in 1777, iron furnaces, forges, or engines
are indicated at Bishopswood, Lydbrook, The New Wear, Upper Red Brook,
Park End, Bradley, and Flaxley.  Yet only a small portion of the mineral
used at these works was obtained from the Dean Forest mines, if we may
judge from the statement made by Mr. Hopkinson, in 1788, before the
Parliamentary Commissioners, to the effect that "there is no regular
iron-mine work now carried on in the said Forest, but there were about
twenty-two poor men who, at times when they had no other work to do,
employed themselves in searching for and getting iron mine or ore in the
old holes and pits in the said Forest, which have been worked out many
years."  Such a practice is well remembered by the aged miners, the chief
part of the ore used coming by sea from Whitehaven.  Thus Mr. Mushet
represents, "at Tintern the furnace charge for forge pig iron was
generally composed of a mixture of seven-eighths of Lancashire iron ore,
and one-eighth part of a lean calcareous sparry iron ore from the Forest
of Dean, called flux, the average yield of which mixture was fifty per
cent of iron.  When in full work, Tintern Abbey charcoal furnace made
weekly from twenty-eight to thirty tons of charcoal forge pig iron, and
consumed forty dozen sacks of charcoal; so that sixteen sacks of charcoal
were consumed in making one ton of pigs."  This furnace was, he believes,
"the first charcoal furnace which in this country was blown with air
compressed in iron cylinders."

The year 1795 marks the period when the manufacture of iron was resumed
in the Forest by means of pit coal cokes at Cinderford, the above date
being preserved on an inscription stone in No. 1 furnace.  "The
conductors of the work succeeded," in the words of Mr. Bishop,
communicated to the Author, "as to fact, and made pig iron of good
quality; but from the rude and insufficient character of their
arrangements, they failed commercially as a speculation, the quantity
produced not reaching twenty tons per week.  The cokes were brought from
Broadmoor in boats, by a small canal, the embankment of which may be seen
at the present day.  The ore was carried down to the furnaces on mules'
backs, from Edge Hill and other mines.  The rising tide of iron
manufacture in Wales and Staffordshire could not fail to swamp such
ineffectual arrangements, and as a natural consequence Cinderford sank."

"Attempts still continued to be made from time to time in the locality,
but the want of success, and the loss of large capital, placed the whole
neighbourhood under a ban.  It was during this interval that the name of
David Mushet appears in connexion with the Forest.  He made his first
essay at White Cliff, near Coleford, in partnership with a Mr. Alford.
The result was the loss of the entire investment, and the dismantling of
the works, except the shell of the building, as a monument over the grave
of departed thousands.  A large quantity of the castings were brought to
Cinderford in 1827, and were connected with the blast apparatus attached
to those works.  The names of Birt and Teague now occasionally appeared,
combined with attempts to retrieve the character of the locality for iron
making; but all failed: and Mr. Mushet's famous declaration that physical
difficulties would for ever prevent its success, in connexion with such
repeated failures, seemed for several years to have sealed up the
prospects of the Forest; but at length a glimmer of light broke through
the darkness, and it was reserved for an individual of Forest birth to
prove that the greatest theorists may arrive at wrong practical
conclusions.

"Moses Teague was the day-star who ushered in a bright morning after a
dark and gloomy night.  Great natural genius, combined with a rare
devotion to the interests of the Forest, led him to attempt a solution of
the difficulty.  In this he so far succeeded at Dark Hill, in the cupola
formerly used by Mr. Mushet, that he formed a company, consisting of
Messrs. Whitehouse, James, and Montague, who took a lease of Park End
Furnace about the year 1825, erected a large water-wheel to blow the
furnace, and got to work in 1826.  Having started this concern, Mr.
Teague, who from constitutional tendencies was always seeking something
new, and considered nothing done while aught remained to do, cast his eye
on Cinderford, which he thought presented the best prospects in the
locality; and after making arrangments with Messrs. Montague, Church, and
Fraser, those gentlemen with himself formed the first 'Cinderford Iron
Company,' the writer joining the undertaking when the foundations of the
buildings were being laid.  The scheme comprehended two blast furnaces, a
powerful blast engine still at work, finery, forge, and rolling-mill,
designed to furnish about forty tons of tinplate per week with collieries
and mine work.  Before the completion of the undertaking it was found
that the outlay so far exceeded their expectations and means, that the
concern became embarrassed almost before it was finished, which, with the
then great depression of the iron trade during the years 1829 to 1832
inclusive, led to the stoppage of the works, which had continued in
operation from November 1829 till the close of 1832, in which state they
continued to 1835, when Mr. Teague again came to the rescue, and induced
Mr. William Allaway, a gentleman in the tinplate trade, of Lydbrook, to
form, in connexion with Messrs. Crawshay, another company.  Mr. Teague
having retired from the management of the furnaces, that important post
was filled by Mr. James Broad, a man of great practical knowledge, who
for twenty years succeeded in making iron at Cinderford furnaces of
quality and in quantities which had never been anticipated.  There are
now four blast furnaces, three of which are always in blast, and a new
blast engine of considerable power is in course of erection, in addition
to the old engine which has been puffing away for twenty-eight years."

Adverting, in the next place, to the iron-works at Park End, the Reverend
H. Poole kindly supplies the following facts, courteously communicated by
the proprietors:--

    "The year 1799 gives the date of the oldest iron furnace here,
    situated about half a mile below the original works, and carried on
    by a Mr. Perkins.  They were afterwards sold to Mr. John Protheroe,
    who disposed of the same to his nephew, Edward Protheroe, Esq.,
    formerly M.P. for Bristol, who had extensive grants of coal in the
    immediate neighbourhood.  In 1824 Mr. Protheroe granted a lease of
    the furnace and premises, and also sundry iron-mines, to 'the Forest
    of Dean Iron Company,' then consisting of Messrs. Montague, James,
    &c., until in 1826 Messrs. William Montague of Gloucester, and John
    James, Esq., of Lydney, became the sole lessees.  These parties, in
    1827, erected another furnace, and also an immense waterwheel of 51
    feet diameter and 6 feet wide, said to be nearly the largest in the
    kingdom, and formed extensive and suitable ponds and canals for the
    supply of water.  This water-wheel was but little used, in
    consequence of the general introduction and superior advantages of
    steam power, which was obtained by erecting an engine for creating
    the blast.  It was considered insufficient, however, for supplying
    two furnaces on the blast principle, each of which was 45 feet high,
    8 feet diameter at the top, 14 feet diameter at the boshes, and 4
    feet 6 inches diameter at the hearth; hence another steam-engine of
    80 horse power was erected in 1849, but in consequence of a
    depression in the iron trade, and other causes, the two furnaces were
    not then worked together.  A few years after the decease of Mr.
    Montague, in 1847, Mr. James purchased all his interest in the works,
    and became the sole lessee until the year 1854, when he purchased of
    Mr. Protheroe the fee of the property, together with all the
    liabilities of the lease.  Since that time the two furnaces have been
    constantly worked together, under the superintendence of Mr.
    Greenham, one of the proprietors, the firm still continuing as 'the
    Forest of Dean Iron Company.'"

    "In the year 1851 extensive tinplate works were commenced at Park
    End, and 24 houses were built for the workmen, by Messrs. James and
    Greenham, at a considerable outlay.  These works when completed were
    afterwards sold to Messrs. T. and W. Allaway, who enlarged and
    improved the same, and are now carried on with much spirit and
    success."

The tinworks at Lydney are also in the hands of the above-named firm, and
comprise three forges, mills, and tin-house, producing 1200 boxes of tin
plates a week, with the consumption of from 70 to 80 tons of Cinderford
iron.  The Lydney iron-works belonged in early times to the Talbot
family.

At Lydbrook there are the "Upper" and "Lower" works.  The latter, or
those nearest the Wye, are said to have belonged originally to the
Foleys, one of whom was elected a free miner in 1754.  Mr. Partridge
carried them on for many years in connexion with the furnaces at
Bishopswood, but leased them in 1817 to Mr. Allaway, at which time they
comprised three forges, rolling and bar mills, and tin-house complete,
capable of producing 100 to 150 boxes of tin plates per week.  Under the
able management of Mr. Allaway's sons, the works now yield 600 boxes,
sent off by the Wye, the iron used being that from Cinderford, as best
suited for the purpose.  The "Upper" works were once farmed for Lord
Gage, but they now belong to Messrs. Russell, who make large quantities
of wire for the electrical telegraph, as well as iron for smith's use.

The iron-works at Sowdley are all that remain to be noticed.  Here, as
early as 1565, iron wire is said to have been made, being drawn by
strength of hand.  In 1661 Mr. Paysted states that the factory passed
from Roynon Jones, Esq., of Hay Hill, into the hands of a party named
Parnell and Co., who carried on the works until the year 1784, from which
date to 1804 Dobbs and Taylor had them.  From 1824 on to 1828 they were
held by Browning, Heaven, and Tryer; but in the latter year Todd,
Jeffries, and Spirrin undertook the business, converting a part of the
premises into paint and brass works, which lasted for about four years.
Two blast furnaces were built on the spot in 1837 by Edward Protheroe,
Esq., who worked them for four years.  In 1857 they were purchased by
Messrs. Gibbon, and are now in blast.

Eight blast furnaces were at work in the Forest in the year 1856, and
produced upwards of 24,132 tons of iron of the best quality.

It only remains to state that twenty iron-mines were awarded by the
Mining Commissioners in 1841, and these are since increased to upwards of
fifty, several of them comprising very extensive workings, and are
furnished with very powerful pumping engines; that at Shakemantle raises
198.25 gallons per stroke, and the one at Westbury Brook 24 gallons, from
a depth of 186 yards.

The annual yield of iron mine from the four principal pits is:--


Buckshaft                           14,574 Tons.
Old Sling Pit                       13,263  ,,
Westbury Brook                      11,725  ,,
Easter Iron Mine                    10,782  ,,


The total yield from all the iron-mines in the Forest for 1856 was
109,268 tons.




CHAPTER XV.


_The Forest Coal Works_--The earliest allusion to them--The original
method of mining for coal--Grants to the Earl of Pembroke in 1610,
&c.--First attempt to char coal for the furnace--Prices for which coal
was to be sold, as fixed by the "Orders" of the Court of Mine
Law--Contents of the existing documents belonging to that Court
described--State of the coal-works at the end of the last
century--Gradual improvements in the mode of working for coal--Mr.
Protheroe's collieries--The superior character of the most recent
coal-works--Amount raised in 1856 from the ten largest collieries.

There is a difficulty in determining which is to be considered the
earliest allusion to the working of coal in the Forest, since charcoal as
well as sea or pit coal was thus indifferently designated: not that the
latter was carried by sea, but only that it agreed in character with the
coal usually so conveyed.  The first notice seems, however, to be that
supplied by the records of the Justice Seat held at Gloucester in 1282,
where it is stated that sea coal was claimed by six of the ten bailiffs
of the Forest of Dean.

The appellation of "Sea Coal Mine" as distinguished from "the Oare Mine,"
mentioned in the 29th section of "The Laws and Customs of the Miners in
the Forest of Dean," compiled about the year 1300, likewise proves that
sea-coal was known by name, and that a description of fuel closely
resembling it was then dug in this neighbourhood, to an extent entitling
it to be noticed "as free in all points" with the long celebrated iron
ore; that is, constituting the collier a free miner.

The original methods of getting coal in the locality probably conformed
to the modes then used for obtaining the iron mine, the veins of both
minerals showing themselves on the surface much in the same manner.  So
that it is probable the old coal-workings, like those for iron, descended
only to a moderate depth, and for the same reason were frequently carried
on by driving levels, for which the position of several of the coal-seams
was highly favourable.

In the year 1610 "liberty to dig for and take, within any part of the
Forest or the precincts thereof, such and so much sea-coal as should be
necessary for carrying on the iron-works," was granted to William, Earl
of Pembroke, by James I.  This is the earliest mention of coal being so
used, agreeably to the efforts then making by Simon Sturtevant and John
Ravenzon, Esqrs., to adapt it by baking for such a purpose.  The same
grant, in omitting to mention coal amongst certain other productions
which "no person or persons were to take or carry out of the said
Forest," leads to the supposition that coal was then exported or carried
into the adjacent country, and that it was found desirable for this to
continue.  Coal was included in Charles I.'s sale of the Forest timber,
iron, stone, &c., to Sir John Winter, who some years afterwards is
described by Evelyn as interested in a project for "charring sea-coal,"
so as to render it fit for the iron furnace.  A scheme somewhat similar
was now tried in the Forest, Mr. Mushet tells us, by Captain Birch, Major
Wildman, and others, "where they erected large air furnaces, into which
they introduced large clay pots, resembling those used at glasshouses,
filled with various proportions of the necessary mixture of ores and
charcoal.  The furnaces were heated by the flame of pit-coal, and it was
expected that, by tapping the pots below, the separated materials would
flow out.  This rude process was found entirely impracticable; the heat
was inadequate to perfect separation, the pots cracked, and in a short
time the process was abandoned altogether."

The important Act of 1668 confirmed to persons digging for coal in the
Forest their lawful rights and privileges, as also to the Crown the
liberty to lease the coal-mines for a period not exceeding thirty-one
years.  This latter provision was immediately acted upon, the coal-mines
and quarries of grindstones being granted to Francis Tyrringham, Esq.,
for thirty-one years, at a rental of 30 pounds per annum, a price which,
if it were fairly agreed upon, affords some intimation of the extent and
value of the Forest coal-works at that time.

By the first "Order" of the Court of Mine Law, dated March 18th of the
year last named (1668), it was fixed that a dozen bushels of lime-coal
should be disposed of for 3s. at the Lime Slad; for 5s. 6d. at the top of
the Little Doward; for 5s. 4d. at any other kilns thereon; for 5s. at the
Buckstones; for 5s. 6d. at Monmouth; for 4s. at the Weare over Wye; for
4s. if on this side; for 3s. 6d. at Coldwall; for 3s. at Lydbrook; and
for 4s. 4d. at Redbrook.

The second "Order" of the same Court, agreed to on the 9th of March,
1674, provides that "the servants of the Deputy Constable shall always be
first served at the pitts."  In the same year a petition was presented to
the Crown by several gentlemen and freeholders of the parish of Newland
for leave to drain some coal-pits at Milkwall, stating that "the
inhabitants of the adjacent country were supplied from the collieries of
the Forest with coal for firing, and also for lime coal, without which
there would be little tillage."

The next Mine Law Court, held on the 8th of September, 1678, determined
that a barrel or three Winchester bushels should be the constant measure
for coal, four-pence being the smallest price allowed to be taken for "a
barrel" of fire coal.  "And whereas the myners within this Forest are at
a very great charge to make surffes for the dreyning of their pitts to
get cole, wch when they have finished others sincke pitts so near them
that they are deprived of the benefit of their labour and charge, to
their very great loss and damage: To remedie whereof, it is now ordered
that after a surffe is made, noe myner shall come to work within 100
yards of that surffe to the prejudice of the undertakers without their
consents, and without being contributory to the making of the said
surffe, upon payne of forfeiting 100 dozen of good fire coale, the one
moiety to the King's Matie, and the other to the myner that shall sue for
the same."  The fourth "Order" of the same Court, issued on the 27th
April, 1680, directs "that no fire cole, smith's cole, or lyme cole shall
be delivered upon the bankes of the Wye between Monmouth Bridge and
Huntsame Ferry for less than 8s. a dozen bushels for the two former
sorts, and 4s. 6d. for lyme cole, or if between Huntsame Ferry and Wilton
Bridge for less than 3s. 6d. a dozen."

On the 19th September, 1682, a fifth "Order" forbade "the transport of
lime coal to Hereford and Monmouthshire at lower rates than heretofore
have been set and agreed upon," and ordained that "whensoever any
collyers have fully wrought out a cole pitt through wch the gout water
must necessarily run for drayning of the worke, in such case the said
collyers shall secure the said pitt, upon payne to forfeite 100 dozen of
good fire cole."  In the ensuing "Order," dated 1st December, 1685, the
jury agreed that, in raising money for any public purpose, "one half of
those who served should be cole myners, and the other half myners at iron
oare," both classes of operatives having at length become equally
numerous, in consequence of the rapid increase of the coal-works.  The
next Court of the Mine, held on 5th April, 1687, decided that "all cole
pitts and dangerous mine pitts which are not in working, or wch
thereafter shall not be wrought in for one whole month together, shall be
sufficiently secured by a wall of stone, or by railing the same with
posts and railes placed above two feet distant from the mouth of such
pitt by the proprietor thereof, and likewise all pitts left open for a
grout way, upon paine of 10s. to be forfeited for every omission and
neglect."

According to the eighth verdict of the miners' jury, declared on the 13th
of January, 1692, the former space of 100 yards, within which all
colliers were prohibited from coming to work another pit, was now
extended to 300 yards.  The next "Order," being that of the 25th of
April, 1694, directs that "the price of fire cole to the copper works
(Redbrook) shal bee henceforth 8s. per dozen, and smith cole 6s. per
dozen."  That of the 10th of March, 1701, enacted that "every miner shall
keepe a paire of scales at their severall colepitts to weigh theire cole
wthall," that none should be sent away unweighed, and that the price of
it should not exceed 5s. a ton to the inhabitants of the hundred of St.
Briavel's, or less than 6s. a ton to foreigners.  The next "Order," that
of the 1st of July, 1707, renewed the direction to fill or sufficiently
secure any dangerous coal-pits, within some reasonable time, under a
penalty of 20s.  The "Order" dated 12th November, 1728, directs that the
distance of 300 yards between any adjoining works be "augmented to 500
yards in all levels."  The "Order" bearing date 2nd March, 1741,
particularizes certain coal-works near Lydbrook called "Wyrrall Hill,"
another called "Dowler's Chambers," and likewise the coal-works called
"Speedwell," at Serridge, besides "the Hill Works" near Ruerdean.  It
also forbade any coal to be sold in the city of Hereford under 13s. the
ton, fixing a horse-load at 2.25 cwt., for 6d. a bushel at the pit, one
cwt. of fire coal for 4d. a bushel, three bushels of smith's coal for
5d., and lime coal for 1d. a bushel, or 21 cwt. of fire coal for 7s. 6d.
"waid and delivered" at Lydney Pill or at Pyrton Pill, or at Gatcombe.
The same "Order" further directs that "the yearns belonging to the levels
which are between Drybrooke and Cannop's Bridge, and between Seridge and
Reuardean Town, shall get coal out of no more than two pitts at one time,
belonging to one level, till the said two pitts are worked quite out, and
those who keep two pitts in work on one level shall not sinke any other
new pitt till the old ones are quite worked out."

The last of the "Orders" of the Miners' Court, dated October 22nd, 1754,
provides that "none shall sink any water pit and get coal out of it
within the limits or bounds of 1,000 yards of any level, and that the
waterwheel ingine at the Oiling Green near Broadmore be taken to be a
level to all intents and purposes, as all other levels brought up from
the Grassmoore;" meaning probably, that they also were to enjoy the
protective distance of 1,000 yards in common with all "levels," otherwise
that distance would be no more than twelve yards radius, according to the
received custom.  "The water-wheel engine," for working the pumps
belonging to the work at Oiling Green, is considered to have been the
first of the kind, and therefore marks the earliest of the successive
steps made within the last 100 years in improving the methods of raising
coal in this locality, by showing greater ingenuity in removing the water
from the pits, which were now evidently sunk much deeper than formerly.

A minute examination {235} of the numerous papers recording the then
ordinary proceedings of the Free Miners' Court, supplies the accompanying
dates to the following coal-works:--

1706.  "Stay and Drink," under Serridge; "Dark Pitt," in Coverham.

1718.  "Hopewell," at Park End; "Speedwell," Ruerdean Hill.

1720.  "Sally Pitt," Coleford.

1721.  "Broad Moore Grout;" "The Holly Pitt."

1722.  "New Charity;" "The 9 Wells;" "Stand Fast;" "The Dry Tump."

1723.  "Go on and Prosper;" "Monmouth Hill Work."

1724.  "The Old Colliery," near Coleford.

1725.  "Shute Castle Pitt;" "The Oiling Quab," in Bromley.

1726.  "The Staple Pitt;" "Short Standing."

1735.  "Gentlemen Colliers," or "Harbourne Oake."

1736.  "The Little Suff," Serridge.

1737.  "Major Wade's Suff," near Aywood; "The Broomy Knowle;" "Pluck
Penny," Nail Bridge; "Dowler's Chambers."

1739.  "Bushes Pitt," at Berry Hill; "The Society."

1740.  "Church way," or "Turn brook."

1741.  "Cartway Pitt;" "Harrow Hill Pitt."

1743.  "Mendall," at Yorkley; "True Blue," Ruerdean; "Littleworth;" "the
Windmill," near Ruerdean.

1744.  "Rain Proof."

1745.  "Church Hill," Coal Work, Park End.

1747.  "The Golden Pippin;" "Little Scare Pitt."

1749.  "Long looked for," near Yorkley.

1753.  "Prosper."

1755.  "The bold Defiance;" "The Ginn."

1757.  "Now found out;" "Standfast."

1758.  "Pigg Pitt."

Several of the above names closely resemble those by which many of the
existing coal-works are designated; as for instance--"Strip-and-at-it,"
"Winners," "Spero," "Prosper," "Never Fear," &c.  One other interesting
fact preserved in these records is that the coal seams were called then
as now by the names of "Upper" and "Lower Rocky," the "Lower" and "Upper
High Delf," the "Starkey Delf," and the "Lowery Delf."

The Appendix to the Fourth Report of the Dean Forest Commissioners
relative to the mines, incidentally mentions the old coalwork called "the
Oiling Gin" as originally galed in 1766, and transferred by agreement,
dated 15th April, 1776, to a company, in consideration of 2,100 pounds,
at whose cost the first "fire-engine," constructed, probably, on Watt's
principle, patented in the previous year, is understood to have been put
up in this neighbourhood.  It also specifies the "Brown's Green Colliery"
near Lydbrook, opened in 1772; the "Moorwood Coal Works" in 1773;
"Arthur's Folly" in 1774, begun in the "Thirty Acres," and brought up
into "Little Cross Hill;" and also the undertaking called "The Gentlemen
Colliers."

On the 26th August, 1777, the Court of Mine Law, by which the coal-works
in the Forest had been ever regulated, sat, as it proved, for the last
time, having been held according as business required three or four times
a year, with some few exceptions, since 1668.  A memorandum with which
its last minute is endorsed is thus expressed:--"Mine Law Court, 26
August, 1777.  There has been no Court holden for the miners since this
day, which is a great loss to the gaveller, and causes various disputes
amongst the colliers, which is owing to the neglect of the
Deputy-Constables."

A careful perusal of the papers in which the proceedings of the Court of
Mine Law are recorded from 30th April, 1706, supplies the following
particulars illustrative of the manner in which the miners of the first
half of the 18th century conducted their works, together with the usages
of the Court then in vogue.  Nearly all the sittings were held at the
Speech-house, under the supervision of the deputies for the time being of
the Constable of St. Briavel's Castle, attended by the clerk of the
court, and the gaveller or his deputy.  Rarely more than twelve, but
sometimes twenty-four miners constituted the jury; the suits they had to
try being mostly for debts and trespasses between miner and miner, such
as for leaving open dangerous pits, breaking "forbids," refusing to pay
tax for defending the rights of the mine, loading "foreigners'" teams at
the pits, for perjury, for keeping more than four horses in carrying
coal, or for removing pit lamps, scores or cowls, &c.  Copies of two such
entries, with other proceedings of the Court as specimens, are given in
the Appendix No. VI.

As early as the year 1718 the proceedings of the Court were occasionally
disturbed by the persons attending it.  Thus, on the 13th of May, the
following amercements were made and recorded:--


John Davis, for talking in Court    2_s._
John Kear, for talking in Court     2_s._
Wm. Budge, for disturbing ye        2_s._
Court
Nich. Whitstone, for the like       2_s._
Thomas Rudge, for the same          2_s._
John Griffiths, for disturbing      2_s._
the Court
Thomas Rudge, for the same          2_s._
offence
John Trigg, for the same offence    2_s._
Griffith Cooper, for talking in     2_s._
Court


Writing upon the subject of the Forest collieries, about the year 1779,
Mr. Rudder remarks in his History of the county,--"The pits are not deep,
for when the miners find themselves much incommoded with water, they sink
a new one, rather than erect a fire engine, which might answer the
expense very well, yet there is not one of them in all this division.
They have indeed two or three pumps worked by cranks, that in some
measure answer the intention."

In the year 1788 we are informed by the evidence of the Gaveller, that,
according to an account made out in the previous August, "there were then
within the Forest 121 coal-pits (thirty-one of which were not actually in
work), which pits produced 1,816 tons of coal per week; that there were
662 free miners concerned and employed therein; and that the annual
compositions paid by them amounted to 215 pounds 8s. or thereabouts,
although many of them were so poor that no money could be collected from
them."  "At this time," says the same officer, "house-fire coal, on the
Mitcheldean side the Forest, is sold at the pit's mouth for 4s. 6d. per
ton of 20 cwt., smith's coal 3s. 3d., lime coal 2s. per ton.  When sold
by the waggonload at the pit's mouth, and the purchaser brings victuals
and drink for the colliers, the price of a waggonload was 10s. of
house-fire coal, smith coal 6s. 6d., lime coal 4s.  On the Coleford side
the Forest, house-fire coal was sold at the pit's mouth for 3s. 9d. per
ton of 20 cwt., smith coal 2s. 9d., lime coal 1s. 3d.  By the waggonload
at the pit's mouth, house-fire coal 8s. 6d., smith coal 5s. 6d., lime
coal 2s. 6d."

In addition to the above, the Assistant Deputy Surveyor of the same
period reported,--"the parts of the Forest in which the principal
collieries are situate are these:--The Level of the Fire Engine Colliery,
which is one of the principal works, is in the bottom between Nail Bridge
and Cinderford Bridge, and there are pits all along the Bottom.  There
are several Levels in the Bottom from Beechenhurst Hill along the Delves
quite up to Nail Bridge.  Another large field of coal from Whitecroft
Bridge, at the back of White Mead Park along the Delves to Great Moseley
Green, and from thence through Old Vallet Tuft and Aures Glow, almost up
to Little Stapleage.  These are the works which do the greatest mischief
to the Forest.  There are some others on the Coleford side, from which a
great deal of coal is raised.  Very little timber is growing in any of
these Delves; and enclosures might be made in the Forest, so as to
exclude all the principal coal-works.  The coal-works in the Forest
supply with fuel the lower parts of Gloucestershire beyond Severn, and
some parts across the Severn about Berkeley, the greatest part of
Herefordshire, the town of Monmouth, and part of the county of Monmouth."

The existing remains of the coal-works of this period, combined with the
traditions of the oldest surviving colliers, enable us to form an
accurate idea of the way in which the workings were carried on.
"Levels," or slightly ascending passages, driven into the hill sides till
they struck the coal seam, appear to have been general.  This was no
doubt owing to the facility with which they effected the getting of the
coal where it tended upwards into the higher lands forming the edge of
the Forest Coal Basin, since they required no winding apparatus, and
provided a discharge for the water which drained from the coal-beds.  The
usages observed at the works entitled the proprietors of their respective
levels to so much of the corresponding seam of coal as they could drain,
extending right and left to the limits awarded by the gaveller.  So far
this mode of procedure was satisfactory enough, and would no doubt have
long continued to go on amicably, had not the principle, highly judicious
in itself, that no workings were ever to intersect one another, but
always to stop when the mattocks met, been abused by driving "narrow
headings" up into different workings, whereby the rightful owner of the
coal was stopped, and the other party enabled to come in and take it from
him.  Timber of considerable strength was required throughout the
underground excavations to support the roof, hence proving a serious
source of spoliation to the woods.  Large slabs of it were also needed
for the flooring, in order that the small coal-trams might be the more
readily pushed forward over it, a space being left beneath for air to
circulate, and for the water to run out.

If the vein of coal proposed to be worked did not admit of being reached
by a level, then a pit was sunk to it, although rarely to a greater depth
than 25 yards, the water being raised in buckets, or by a water-wheel
engine, or else by a drain having its outlet in some distant but lower
spot, such as is found to have led from the Broad Moor Collieries to
Cinderford, a mile and upwards in length.  The shaft of the pit was made
of a square form, in order that its otherwise insecure sides might be the
better supported by suitable woodwork, which being constructed in
successive stages was occasionally used as a ladder, the chief difficulty
being found in keeping the workings free from water, which in wet seasons
not unfrequently gained the mastery and drowned the men out.  The skips
appear to have been always rectangular in shape, similar to the shafts.

Intermediately between the date of the above coal-works and the present
most approved collieries, Mr. Protheroe, in his evidence before the Dean
Forest Commissioners, in 1832, relative to his thirty-two coal-pits,
stated that "the depth of my principal pits at Park End and Bilson varies
from about 150 to 200 yards; that of my new gales, for which I have
engine licences, is estimated at from 250 to 300 yards.  I have 12 steam
engines varying from 12 to 140 horse power, 9 or 10 of which are at work,
the whole amounting to 500 horse power; and I have licences for four more
engines, two of which must be of very great power.  The amount of wages
paid by me, in the last twelve years, to colliers, hauliers, and
labourers, is upwards of 150,000 pounds, giving constant employment on
the average to from 400 to 500 individuals."

The coal-pits were now lined throughout with stone walling, leaving a
clear diameter of from 7 to 9 feet; greater regard was paid to their
drainage and ventilation, both of which required particular attention,
owing to the watery nature of the coal measures, and the abundance of
"choke-damp," although happily "fire damp" never appears.  Horses were
now used underground for bringing the coal-trams to the foot of the pit,
and all the workings were accurately surveyed and recorded, agreeably to
the regulations instituted by the Dean Forest Mining Commissioners, under
the judicious Act of 27th July, 1838, to the effect that "the quantity of
coals sent daily from each colliery should be duly entered, and plans
made of the workings, for the information of the Gaveller, who might also
inspect any underground operations at all reasonable times," the whole
undertaking being required to be carried on according to the best and
most improved system.

                      [Picture: Light Moor Colliery]

In accordance with which excellent rules, each of the 105 re-awards of
coal seams applied for during the years 1838-41 were so ably set out by
Messrs. Sopwith, Buddle, and Probyn, as effectually to check the numerous
disputes which formerly arose, and ere long so to develop the coal-works
of the Forest of Dean as to render them worthy to be compared with some
of the finest collieries in the kingdom.  As an instance of their present
excellence, Messrs. Crawshay's colliery at Light Moor may be mentioned,
for its great extent, completeness, powerful machinery, and size of its
pits.  These last, four in number, are 291 feet deep, one of which,
measuring 9 feet 6 inches by 14 feet, contains pumps raising 88 gallons
of water per minute.

The number of coal-works in the Forest at the close of 1856 was 221,
yielding in that year to the public use upwards of 460,432 tons; the ten
largest collieries each producing as follows:--


                                                 Tons.
Park End Colliery                               86,973
Light Moor ,,                                   86,508
Crump Meadow                                    41,507
Bix Slade                                       26,792
The Nelson                                      24,539
Hopewell in Whimberry                           18,858
Valletts Level                                  17,918
Bilson                                          17,395
Arthur and Edward                               12,857
New Strip and at it                             11,502
                                               -------
                                               344,849


Probably a twentieth part of the above total should he added to the
amount charged, in consideration of the quantity consumed by the colliery
engines, thus making the gross annual produce a third of a million of
tons.




CHAPTER XVI.


_The Geology of the Forest, and its Minerals_--Their character in
general--Description of the beds of conglomerate, mountain limestone,
iron veins, millstone grit, and lower coal measures--"The Coleford High
Delf"--Elevation of the Forest range of hills--The middle coal veins--The
upper veins--Mr. Mushet's analysis of the Forest coal--Their fossils--The
stone-quarries of the district.

The geological conditions of the Forest of Dean merit careful
observation, not only as regards the mineral wealth comprised within its
limits, but as explanatory of its undulations, and the means of
maintenance for its inhabitants.

The strata of the Forest repose in a basin-like form, the greatest
depression being near the centre; the longer axis extending from N. to S.
about eleven miles, and the transverse axis, in the widest part, ranging
from E. to W. about seven miles.  The general observer, if he takes his
stand on the edge of hills by which this basin is bounded, will see the
enclosing character of the ridge, as well as the less conspicuous circle
of somewhat elevated land occupying the central portion of the field, and
which is separated by a valley or plain from the surrounding ridge.

This outlying ridge marks in most places the outcrop of the Conglomerate,
Mountain Limestone, Iron Veins, Millstone Grit, and Lower Coal-measures.

Mr. Maclauchlan's geological map of the district exhibits the course of
the conglomerate bed, and the consequent disappearance of the old red
sandstone formation under the Dean Forest basin.  Occasionally this
conglomerate, or hard grit, forms two distinct beds, very distant from
one another, near Lydney for instance, and on the Kimin Hill and
Buckstone, although it is sometimes cut off altogether by a "fault," as
opposite Blackney.  It varies in hardness as well as in the number of the
pebbles, and not unfrequently presents an abrupt fall at its termination,
as at "the Harkening Rock" in the Highmeadow Woods.

           [Picture: General view of the centre of the Forest]

                 [Picture: Geological Map of the Forest]

The upper portion of the bed is soft, and acquires the character of the
limestone clay, often throwing out springs, such as St. Anthony's Well,
which have accumulated in the limestone rocks above.  A very micaceous
stone sometimes occurs in the upper parts, having the appearance of
silver: hence the name of "Silver Stone" given to a spot near the
Hawthorns, where it is found.  The surface which the carboniferous
limestone exposes is also represented in the map.  The Forest coal-field
is surrounded by this formation, with the exception of the line of fault
between Lydney Park and Danby Lodge, a distance of four miles.

The principal iron-mine train of the district divides into a lower or
more crystalline, and an upper or more argillaceous and sandy stratum.
Mr. Mushet thus describes this important metallic vein:--"The iron ores
of the Forest of Dean, which have become intimately known to me, are
found, like the ores of Cumberland and Lancashire, in churns or caverns
formed in the upper beds of the mountain or carboniferous limestone.  The
leaner ores contain a great deal of calcareous matter in the shape of
common limestone or spar, which reduces the percentage in the ore as low
as between 15 and 25 per cent., and it seldom exceeds 25, except when
mixed with fragments of what is called brush ore, which, when in
quantity, raises the percentage to 40 or 45.  Brush ore is a hydrate with
protoxide of iron, and frequently, if not much mixed with calcareous
earth, contains from 60 to 65 per cent. of iron.  These ores are found in
chambers, the walls of which are exceedingly hard limestone, crystallized
in rhombs.  This limestone is called the 'crease,' and is frequently
found enveloped and covered with the iron ore.  The miner has to cut his
way through this crystallized limestone from chamber to chamber, a
distance of from 20 to 100 yards, before he reaches the next of these
deposits, which are sometimes found to contain 3,000 or 4,000 tons of
ore.  The principal part of the ore is then dug easily, somewhat like
gravel; but the sides of the chambers are often covered with the stony
ore before described, which requires gunpowder to detach it from the
rock."  These various ores were found by the same excellent authority to
yield iron in the following proportions:--


Hydrates of Iron                    57.5 per cent.
"Brush" Ore                         64.5  ,,
Red Calcareous Ore                  9.7 per cent.
"Blake Ore"                         22  ,,


The inhabitants of the Forest consider the ores obtained on the east side
superior to those on the west.  They likewise suppose, but probably
without foundation, that the ore will be found to deteriorate in
proportion as the workings descend.  Red and yellow ochre of superior
quality occur in the iron veins, and have at various times been in
considerable request.  They are now used in the neighbourhood for marking
sheep, and tinting whitewash.

Reverting to the limestone beds of the district, the lower veins are
locally called "blue stone," the middle "red stone," and the top vein the
"white head," which is largely used as a flux in the smelting furnaces.
The researches of Mr. R. Gibbs, of Mitcheldean, have enabled him to
furnish me with the following list of fossils discovered by himself in
the Forest limestone formation:--


_Zoophyta_                          Syringopora reticulata, Turbinolia
                                    fungites, Lithostrotion irregulare.
_Echinodermata_                     Actinoerinus aculeatus, et
  ,,                                laevissimus, Platyerinus laevis et
  ,,                                rugosus.
  ,,                                Poteriocrinus crassus, et pentagonus.
                                    Rhodocrinus costatus, et granulatus.
_Mollusca Dimyaria_.                Pallastra complanata.
_Brachiopoda_.                      _Terebratula_ hastata.
  ,,                                Spirifer glaber, et rhomboideus.
  ,,                                Chonetes cornoides, et papilionacea.
  ,,                                _Leptoena_ analoga.
  ,,                                _Productus_ cora, et longispinus, et
                                    martini, et pustulosus et cornoides.
_Lamellibranchiata_.                Monomyaria.
                                    Aviculopecten fallax.
                                    Dimyaria.
                                    Psammobia complanata.


          Pisces.

Ctenacanthus tenuistriatus.
Cladodus conicus.
Psammodus porosus, et rugosus.

              [Picture: Vertical section of the Plump Hill]

The millstone grit beds immediately succeed those of the carboniferous
limestone just described, forming a similar belt round the Forest, and
disappearing with it on the Blakeney side of the basin.  Its chief
interest consists in the circumstance that it has been employed from very
early times as a material for building; for though it contains a vein of
iron ore, little has been done in mining it.  Most of the old buildings
adjoining the parts where this grit crops out are formed of it, as
several of the ancient neighbouring churches show, and likewise the
oldest lodges in the Forest; now, however, this kind of stone is seldom
used except for boundary walls, and such kind of rough work.

The rest of the outer circle of high land, on whose summit the observer
has been supposed to be standing, and which so definitely marks the
Forest coal-field, comprises the _lower_ coal measures, containing the
lower and upper Trenchard veins, the Coleford High Delf, with the
Whittington and Nag's Head seams, which together give about eleven feet
of coal.  Of these the Coleford High Delf, averaging a thickness of
upwards of five feet, and extending over an area of 16,000 acres, is
undoubtedly the chief, although in some places it has suffered from
various disturbances, the principal of which occur in the neighbourhood
of Coleford, extending in a line from Worcester Lodge to Berry Hill, and
is marked on the surface by a succession of pools, named Howler's Well,
Leech Pool, Crabtree Pool, Hooper's Pool, and Hall's Pool.  Mr. Buddle
describes the width as varying from 170 to 340 yards in the most defined
part, called by the colliers the "Horse," and the dislocations adjoining,
the "Lows."  "It is not," he remarks, "what geologists term a _fault_, as
there is no accompanying dislocation of the adjoining strata.  In its
underground character it is similar to those _washes_ or aqueous deposits
in many coal districts, but it differs from them in not being under the
bed of any river, nor in the bottom of a valley, nor does it show itself
at the surface."  And he adds, "On considering the various phaenomena
presented by this fault, and the seam of coal on each side of it, we may
infer that it occupies the site of a lake which existed at the period of
the deposition of the High Delf seam, and that the carbonaceous matter
which formed the seam was accumulated while the water was deep and
tranquil.  On the water being discharged from the lake, the 'Horse'
itself occupied the bed of the river, by which the complete drainage of
the lake was effected, and which washed the coal entirely out."

The same scientific observer records an extraordinary depression about
half a mile to the south-east, in the direction of the "Horse," and in
the same seam of coal, amounting to about twenty feet in depth, and of an
oval shape.  Various other defects and disturbances in the Coleford High
Delf are detected from time to time by the new workings, especially in
those places where the surface is most uneven.  Thus its outcrop at
Lydney is very imperfectly defined, and at Oakwood Mill the vein is
rendered worthless by a fault, whilst on each side of the Lydbrook valley
there is a contortion, by which it is thrown down in one instance seventy
yards, and in two others thirty yards each.

Such is the geological character of the conspicuous range of hills by
which the Dean Forest coal-field is bounded, especially on its north and
east sides.  The following table gives their height in feet at certain
places above the sea:--


                                    Feet.
Symmond's Rock                      540
Buck Stone                          954
Knockholt                           760
Clearwell Meand                     727
Ruerdean Hill                       991
High Beech                          891
Coleford Meand                      760
Berry Hill                          750
Lea Bailey Hill                     580
Mitcheldean Meand                   870
Edge Hill                           908
Stapledge                           749
Putten Edge                         664
Blaize Bailey                       684
Blackney Hill                       507


Nearly all these spots afford magnificent views of the surrounding
country, reaching as far as the Coteswold, Sedgebarrow, Malvern,
Herefordshire, Welsh, and Monmouthshire heights, relieved intermediately
by the windings of the Severn, cultivated plains, and woodland.  Several
very striking ravines intersect this Forest range, particularly at
Lydbrook, Blackpool Brook, and Ruspedge, such as would afford the artist
many beautiful and interesting subjects for delineation.  One of the
hills, viz. that on which Mr. Colchester's house, called "the
Wilderness," is situated, affords a prospect rarely equalled.  The
present residence dates from the year 1824, but it occupies a site which
was built upon as early as 1710, if not before, for the accommodation of
sporting parties in the days of Sir Duncombe Colchester, when its fine
sycamores and trees of "the Beech Walk" were most likely planted.

Descending from the side of the hilly range on which the reader has been
supposed to stand towards the middle of the Forest, a plain is reached
varying in width from half a mile to little more than 100 yards, and
forming a band round the somewhat elevated centre of the district.  This
circular valley or plain marks the outcrop of the middle series of coal
seams, not less than ten in number, the principal ones being the Smith
Coal, Lowery or Park End High Delf, Starkey, Rocky, and Upper and Lower
Churchway.  The combined thickness of these beds may be said to average
20 feet, and they are more argillaceous in character than the lower beds,
which in general are harder in their nature, and hence they afford the
larger portion of the fossiliferous remains observed and tabulated by Mr.
R. Gibbs, who has kindly furnished the writer with the following--

PLANTAE.

_Asterophyllites_ equisetiformis, et foliosus.

_Bothrodendron_ punctatum.

_Calamites_ approximatus, nodosus.

_Caulopteris_ primaeva.

_Lepidodendron_ dichotomum, et elegans, et Serlii, et Sternbergii, et
majus.

_Neuropteris_ acutifolia, et angustifolia, et flexuosa, et macrophylla,
et oblongata.

_Pecopteris_ abbreviata, et arborescens, et cristata, et dentata, et
Serlii.

_Sigillaria_ contracta, et elongata, et mammillaris, et ornata, et
reniformis.

_Sphenophyllum_ fimbriatum, et Schlotheimii, et truncatum.

_Sphenopteris_ Hibbertii, et macilenta.

_Stigmaria_ ficoides.

_Ulodendron_ Lindleyanum, et Lucasii.

The same variations in thickness as well as "faults" which have been
detected in the lower coal seams, occur in the middle measures, although
they do not in any case assume the same magnitude as the "Horse" in the
Coleford High Delf.

The heart of the Forest basin is well defined by its forming a slightly
varied plateau, containing the inferior and comparatively unimportant
seams of Woor Green coal, situated of course nearer to the surface than
the other veins, but as yet only sparingly worked, and not accurately
defined in its outcrop.  The highest elevations in this portion of the
district are:--Surridge, 658 feet; Speech-house, 581 feet; St. Paul's,
Park End, 270 feet.  The combined vertical thickness of the entire
formation, descending from the top surface to the old red sandstone, is
calculated by Mr. D. Williams at 2,765 feet, an opinion which is
corroborated by Mr. Atkinson's highly interesting sections based on his
practical acquaintance with the mining operations of the Forest.

Mr. Mushet obtained by analysis the following percentage of carbon in the
various descriptions of coal, viz.:--


Lowery Delf                         62.
Coleford High Delf                  63.72, 63.61, and 60.96.
Churchway                           60.33 and 64.135.
Rockey                              61.735.
Starkey                             61.53.
Park End Little Delf                58.15.
Smith Coal                          63.36.


None of these sorts of coal emit "fire-damp" in their natural
condition--a fact which adds so much to the safety of the pits; but
"choke-damp" is very prevalent.

The sandstone matrix of these coal-beds constitutes the grey and
buff- rock so well known in the neighbourhood of the Forest as a
valuable building material, as well as for ornamental stonework.
Although for many years past it has been generally preferred to the
gritstone of the district, and is commonly met with in the better
specimens of stonework on this side the Severn, of which Mr. Telford's
Over Bridge and Lord Somers's mansion at Eastnor are examples, yet
originally such was not the case, since the earliest example of its being
used for any considerable pieces of masonry occurs in the steeple of
Ruerdean Church, a work of the 15th century.  Now, however, almost all
the 320 stone quarries worked in the Forest are of this stone, which is
very pleasing in tint, and, if judiciously selected, very durable.




APPENDIX.


No. I.
Papers preserved in the Lansdowne Collection at the British Museum.


"Right Honourable,

"Acoording unto your Lordship's warrant, Wee repaired unto and have
veiwed and duelie considered the severall woodes, known by the names of
Great Bradley, Little Bradley, Stonegrove, Pigstade, Buckholde Moore, and
the Copps; all lying together and conteyning by the measure of 16.5 foote
the pole, 520 acres.  In wch grounds we thinke (the woodes being muche
differing in qualitie, by an equall proportion) there maie be raised for
everie acre 30 coard of woode; reserving sufficient staddells according
to the state, wch, according to the measure of the said grounds, amounted
unto the number of 15,600 cordes of woode.  Uppon conference with divers
in the contrie, wee finde that such a quantitie of woode is not suddainly
to be vented in anie other sorte then to the iron workes, wch causeth
either the cheapnes or dearnes of the same; the contrie not vallewing the
said woodes uppon the stem above XIIIID the coard, although to the iron
workes it may be vallued at IIs VId the coard.  So that according to the
rate of the contrie, the said proportion of woode is worthe CCCCCV li.
And according to the compictacon for the iron works, the same maie be
vallued at MIXCLX li.  We imagine that the charge of ffensing the said
woodes, circuting 4 miles, will cost, to be done and kept according to
the state, aboute CC markes.  The rent is 20 li. per ann.

               "ROBERT TRESWELL.  J. NORDEN.  THO. MORGAN."

The wood standing in the 6 copses above named, Sir Edward Winter proposed
to buy for 800 lib., cutting and carrying away the same, one copse after
another, in 5 years' time.  But this proposal was so impugned as to
elicit the ensuing defence from Sir E. Winter:--"A true Answere to the
objections made against my late bargaine for some of his Mties coppices
or colletts adioyning to the fforest of Deane.

"'1.  Ffirst, that contrarie to the intention of this bargaine, I have
alredie cut downe a great number of tymber-trees, whereas to this howre
not any one is felled of that kynde or any other.

"'2.  That a follower of my Ld of Worcester's should survey those woodes
is a wilful mistakinge, synce by the particules it appeares that one Mr
Hervye made this survey by warrant from the late L. Trer.

"'3.  That I should gaine a 1000 li. per ann. by this bargaine is soe
vayre and ympossible a thing as deserves noe Aunswere.

"'Yet that your Lpp maye see howe much Th' informer hath exceeded
therein, himselfe or any man els _shall purchase my interest for a tenth
parte of his valuation_.  Which I write not in any sorte to capitulate
with your Lpp; for wthout any consideration at all, I am redie to yealde
upp this bargaine, rather then by reteyning thereof to harbour in your
noblest thoughts the least ill conceipt of mee or my proceedinges.  But
nowe, Sr, howe profitable a bargaine you have made for the Kinge, these
considerations followinge will easely demonstrate--ffor whereas in former
tyme a greater proffit was never raised out of these wooddes than XXVS
per ann. vntill my Ld your ffather and Sr Walter Myldemaye did let them
by lease, and soe made VIILI rent, wthout any ffyne, your Lpp hath now
made 500li ffyne, and 20li rent, wch is noe smale improvement,
consideringe that _these 25 yeares last past not one pennye rent or
proffitt otherwise hath bene made out of them, but left as a thing
forgotten_.  That the coppice woodd or vnderwoodd through the abuse of
the last ffarmer, who never inclosed these wooddes, and the contynuall
spoyle and havocke of the country thereabouts, _is utterly destroyed_.
That there is nothinge nowe eft in 4 of those 6 coppices for wch I have
bargained but old beaches, heretofore topt and lopt, whereof many of them
nowe are scarce worth the cuttinge out to any man but myselfe, in respect
of my iron workes beinge soe nere to them.  That the other twoe coppices
which are well stored have nothinge in them but younge beaches, and some
other woodd of XX or XXX yeares growth.  That in dyvers of those coppices
there are many acres wch have noe manner of woodd standing vpon them at
all.  Lastly, that the enclosinge of these coppices wth a sufficient
mound will cost me 200 markes the least, beside the great quantitie of
woodd that must necessarilye be spent therein, for wch no manner of
allowance is made mee, &c. &c. &c.'"

The next MS. in Sir J. Caesar's collection seems designed to promote the
extension of the iron-works, and relates several interesting particulars.
It is headed "Reasons to move his Mtie to make vse and profitt of the
woodes within the fforest of Deane."  The Forest woods are said to
"containe of great standing woodes, though of severall and different
sortes, 15,000 acres, parte beinge tymber, and parte other, the most
parte well sett, the lawndes not accompted.  The same fforest is a forest
for waste, and of soe ill condicon for hunting, as that the preservinge
the woodes thereof will nether yield pleasure to the hunter nor profitt
to the owner; and the woodes thereupon soe subject to waste, will dayly
grow worse and worse.  The fforest is for II. or III. myles vpon the
skirts soe exceedingly wasted, as well by the inhabitants as other the
borderers adiacent, that yt is grief to see soe many goodly trees to be
spoiled, the vse whereof hath bene such as yt hath converted the tymber
trees to Dotards, and that almost generally vpon the borders of the same
fforest.  The liberty of makinge sale of the wood hath bred in the same
such a multitude of poore creatures, as it is lamentable to thinke soe
many inhabitants shall lyve vpon soe bare provision as vpon spoile of the
fforest woodes, wch yf in tyme yt be not forseene, will consume all his
Mties woodes without accompte.  It appeareth by Recorde, that in the
raigne of Henry III., Edward I., II., and III., and longe sithence, there
were divers forges within the fforest, and noe other but the Kinge's
only; and of these there were VIII. at one tyme, as appeareth by the
accompt of Maurice de Scto Amando, and the rest were _Forgium Itinerans
ad siccum in bosco de_, _&c_.  All lyberty beinge prohibited for cuttinge
of greene wood but to his Mates owne forge.  And whosoever cutt greene
wood was by the officer of the Bayliwycke attached for the same.  Also by
negligence of former officers the inhabitantes of the said forest have
much insulted by cuttinge of trees in the said forest, whereas by Recorde
it appeareth the Kynge's Warrant was in former tymes obtayned for
cuttinge of deade trees, and who soe cutt, shredd, or lopped great wood
wthout good warrant, was from tyme to tyme attached, presented, and made
to paye for ye same.  There are, to keepe and preserve the woodes of the
said forest, tenn woodwardes, or Baylyfes of ffee, who hould Landes by
that service, viz. Per servitum custodiendi boscum Domini Regis infra
Ballinam, &c.  Yet late experience proveth that they, their Tenauntes and
Servantes, are as great spoilers as any others.  And the antient Recordes
make mencon, that some of these woodwardes have forfeyted their
Bayliwyckes, and have compounded wth the Kinge to have them againe
regranted.  It appeareth alsoe by Recordes, that the King hath bene
answered of Browsewood wthin the Forest of Deane, and therein is sett
downe what ffees were from tyme to tyme allowed to the keeper and what
not.  The profitt to be made of the said woodes is either by convertinge
the same to coles, and soe for makinge iron or otherwise by sellinge of
the tymber by the tonne.  In wch disposition of the woodes there wil be
lytle or noe difference in advantage.  But of the two the makinge of
coles will be lykely to yield most profitt."

These succeeding papers, preserved with those already given, have also
their interest:--

"Certain lands and tenemts holden by the face, and called new sett
landes, wch the tenantes doe passe from partie to partie in the Kinge's
Court at St Breuills, being all the Kinge's lands liing in the fforest of
Deane in com' Glouc., every tenante there payeing a certein yerely rent
to his Mts Bailiff.  Imprimis, the parke of Thomas Baynham, Esqr, called
Noxon, is parcell therof, except from the gutter to the pale towards his
house, holden by the tenure aforesaid, 50li per ann.

"Item, the house and land of Richard Allowaye, gent., is so holden, 30li
per ann.

"George Wirrelle's land at Bicknor, from the same towne to one Sipprian's
howse, and so downe to Skidmore's house, and likewise to the fforest
side, is of the like tenure, together wth other lands beyond his house,
50li per ann.

"Richard Carpenter's land, called 5 acres, and his corne leasowes, wth
all his other landes abutting vpon Mr Thornburie's Myll, and so vp to the
same forrest, is so holden, 15li pr ann.

"Mr Thornburie's Myll, wth all the landes thereunto belonginge, is so
holden, 20li.

"Richard Wirgan's land, nere to a place called the Meine, wthin the said
forrest, adioyning to the woodside, is of that same tenure, 10li.

"Christofer Bunn holdeth parcell of the same landes wch I have not
viewed, 10li.

"The Earle of Pembrooke holdeth by lease for 5 yeres yet to come,
Whitemayde Parke, wch was taken out of the forrest, of the like tenure,
20li.

"Sir Edward Winter's parke from the woodeside to the launde is of the
like tenure, together wth the 2 highwaies wch have bene inclosed out of
the forrest wthin this 20 yeres, 30li.

"Widowe Earwoode's ground from Mr Carpenter's to the forrest side is of
the same tenure, 15li.

"Thomas Dininge's Myll, called Breame, wth all the landes and tenements
thereto belonging, is so holden, as allso his house and land upon the
hill, and all other his landes towardes Breame likewise.

"Item, all the lands from Conyers bridge, being a great quantity, to the
forrest, are belonging to the same landes, but lately aliened & sould by
deed, & now holden by demise, are of like tenure, being parcell of the
forrest, 40li.

"Mr. Jeames, of Bristoll, holdeth 100li per ann. of the same tenure wthin
the forrest.

"Md these are not halfe the landes on that side the forrest, but towards
Michell Deane & little Deane there is muche more.

"Item, Willm. Hall hath land there wch a Dyer holdeth vnder him, & was
taken out of the Kinge's comon, together wth other lands not yet
throughly viewed.

"Item, all Wrurdyne is much more land, wch shall be viewed & sett downe
hereafter.

"Item, Stanton's myne, wth much other land vnviewed, is so holden.

"All wch particulars doe but conteine but the least parte of the landes
holden by the foresaid tenure."

Further particulars, of the same character as the above, and forming a
part of the series now given, occur in the records of another survey, as
follows:--

"Rent reserved for the farme of two Messuages and one Watermill, of which
two Messuages one is called Sulley, the other Redmore; And of 5 cotages,
with gardens and orchards to the same belonginge; and of one 30 Acres of
Land, Meadow, Pasture, Arrable, and Woodland; Some whereof are called
Salley fields, Gumspitt, Le Harper, Diwardens, Broadfeild, Radmore,
Coppier, Kew-grove, Martin's Wall, and Ediland, conteyninge together
CCCXLVII acres, one rood, and one perch, late in the occupacon of Edward
James, lying in the fforest of Deane, in the County of Gloucester, of the
yearely value of VIS and VIIID and IVS penny halfepenny.

"And of six Messuages, six Barnes, gardens, and orchards to the same
belongings, And of XVI. several Closes of Land, Meadowe, Pasture, Arrable
Land, and Woodland; Two whereof are called Cownedge, ten called Digges,
one called Bradley, one Beggars' Thorne mead, one called Marshall's
grove, and the other called ffernefeilde, and one other called Bradley,
conteyninge in the whole Threescore and ten acres and three roods, lying
in the fforest aforesaid, late in the occupation of Robert Pearke, of the
yearly value of IIS and VID, &c. &c. &c.

"The names of the officers belonging to his Mties fforrest of Deane in
Com' Glouc., viz., the Earle of Pembrooke is now High Cunstable of the
same fforest.  William Winter and Roger Myners, Esqrs, or one of them, is
deputie Cunstable to the said Earle, & they keepe Courtes every 3 weeks
at St Breuilles, and allso every 6 weekes at the Speach House, or Court
of Attachment wthin the same fforrest.  William Carpenter is Steward of
St Breuills Courtes & the said Speach Court or Attachementes courtes.
Robert Bridgeman is Bailiff for all the said Courtes, and allso in all
the liberties in the said fforrest, and James Yennys is his deputie
Bayliff.  Md every tenantes & the borderers doe take tymber for their
buildings as allso hedge woods to inclose their own groundes, & take
fyring at their pleasure wthin the fforrest, & sell their owne woodes and
the woodes of the landes wthin mentioned, to the great spoile of the
Kinge's woodes wthin the said fforrest."



No.  II.
One of the Dean Forest Claims, put in at the Justice Seat, held in
Gloucester Castle, 10 Chas. I.


Clamea posita in Itinere Forestae de Deane tento apud Castrum Glouc. in
com. Glouc. die Iovis decimo die Iulij anno Regni Domini Caroli nunc
Regis Angliae decimo coram Henrico Comite de Holland praenobilis Ordinis
Garterii Milite Capitali Justitiario ac Justitiariis Itinerantibus omnium
Forestarum Chacearum parcorum et warrennarum Domini Regis citra Trentam.

(18) Foresta de Deane in Comitatu Glouc.Et modo ad hanc curiam venit
Willielmus Skynne, per Edwardum Offley attornatum suum, et dicit quod
ipse est seisitus de antiquo mesuagio in Plattwell in parochia de Newland
et de viginti acris terrae prati et pasturae et de diversis horreis
stabulis, Anglice barnes Stables, et aliis necessariis edificiis super
terram praedictam ab antiquo edificatis in parochia de Newland infra
Forestam de Deane praedictam in dominico suo ut de feodo, et pro se et
haeredibus suis clamat has libertates privilegia et franchesias sequentia
tanquam ad mesuagium terram pratum et pasturam et caetera edificia
praedicta pertinentia et spectantia, videlicet pro necessaria
reedificatione et reparatione dicti mesuagii sui et aliorum antiquorum
edificiorum suorum super terram et tenementa sua praedicta existentium,
quod ipse per visum et allocationem forestariorum et viridariorum
Forestae praedictae de bosco et maeremio domini Regis super vasta et
communia Forestae praedictae crescentibus de tempore in tempus capere et
percipere potest.  Et quod forestarii et viridarii Forestae praedictae
post requisitionem per ipsum Willielmum Skynne eisdem factam apud Curiam
domini Regis infra Forestam praedictam tentam vocatam Le Speech Court,
debent ire videre et appunctuare boscum et maeremium in vastis et
communibus Forestae praedictae sic ut praefertur crescentia praedictis
necessariis reedificationibus et reparationibus suis dicti mesuagii et
aliorum edificiorum suorum supradictorum et eidem Willielmo Skynne inde
allocationem facere.  Clamat etiam pro necessariis estoveriis suis in
dicto antiquo mesuagio comburendis et expendendis ad libitum suum capere
de mortuis et siccis arboribus dicti domini Regis in vastis et communibus
locis Forestae praedictae existentibus.  Clamat etiam communiam pasturae
in omnibus locis apertis et communicalibus Forestae praedictae pro
omnibus averiis suis communicalibus super terras et tenementa sua
praedicta levantibus et cubantibus omnibus anni temporibus (mense vetito
solummodo excepto).  Clamat etiam habere pawnagium pro omnibus porcis
suis super terras et tenementa sua praedicta levantibus et cubantibus in
omnibus vastis Forestae praedictae tempore pawnagii, Reddendo domino Regi
annuatim summam unius denarii pro pawnagio praedicto per nomen de
Swinesilver et non amplius.  Et pro titulo ad has libertates privilegia
et franchesias sic ut praefertur superius per ipsum clamata, idem
Willielmus Skynne ulterius dicit quod ipse et omnes antecessores sui et
omnes illi quorum statum ipse nunc habet in mesuagio terra et tenementis
supradictis a tempore cujus contrarii memoria hominum non existit in
contrarium usi fuerunt et consueverunt de tempore in tempus facere sectam
ad Curiam dicti domini Regis et praedecessorum suorum Regum et Reginarum
Angliae apud Castrum suum Sancti Briavelli de tribus septimanis in tres
septimanas, ac etiam annuatim solvere feodo firmario domini Regis
Forestae praedictae pro tempore existenti vel ejus ballivo redditum octo
solidorum et octo denariorum ad usum dicti domini Regis.  Ac etiam
annuatim solvere dicto feodo firmario vel ejus ballivo summam unius
denarii in nomine de Swinesilver ad usum dicti domini Regis.  Et quod
ipse praefatus Willielmus Skynne et omnes antecessores et omnes ili
quorum statum ipse nunc habet in mesuagio terris et tenementis
supradictis ratione soctae ad Curiam dicti domini Regis et redditus octo
solidorum et octo denariorum praedictorum ac summae unius denarii in
nomine de Swinesilver sic ut praefertur per ipsum de tempore in tempus
domino Regi factorum et solutorum usi fuerunt et a toto praedicto tempore
cujus contrarii memoria hominum non existit in contrarium uti
consueverunt omnibus et singulis libertatibus privilegiis et franchesiis
modo et forma prout per ipsum Willielmum Skynne superius sunt clamata
tanquam ad praedictum mesuagium terras et tenementa praedicta spectantia
et pertinentia, et eis omnibus et singulis juxta vim formam et effectum
clamei sui praedicti usi fuerunt, et idem Willielmus Skynne adhuc utitur
prout ei bene licet.  Et hoc paratus est verificare prout curia
consideraverit unde idem Willielmus Skynne petit praedicta libertates
privilegia et franchesias hic ut praefertur per ipsum superius clamata
sibi et haeredibus suis allocari juxta clameum suum praedictum.

                                                              TOBIAS ROSE.



No. III.


TABLE I.--FORMED BY MR. MACHEN.


An Account of the Admeasurement of Trees in Dean Forest; viz., A, an Oak
near the Woodman's in Shutcastle; B, "Jack of the Yat," an Oak Tree on
the Coleford and Mitcheldean Road; C, a large Oak in Sallow Vallets; D,
an Oak which appears to be formed of two Oaks grown together, on the
Lodge Hill, 300 yards west of York Lodge; E, a black Italian Poplar in
the Garden at Whitemead.  All taken at six feet from the ground.

[NOTE: In each table, Inc = Increase in Size.]


         A                 B                 C                 D                 E
                           {265}             {265a}            {265b}
                  Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc
         Ft.ins   ins      Ft.ins   ins      Ft.ins   ins      Ft.ins   ins      Ft.ins   ins
Oct      3  9     -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -
1814
 ,,      3        1.625    -        -        -        -        17  2    -        -        -
1816     10.625
 ,,      3        1        -        -        -        -        17  3    1         0       -
1818     11.625                                                                  11.5
 ,,      4        1.25     -        -        -        -        17       4.125    -        -
1820     0.825                                                 7.125
 ,,      4        1.75     -        -        -        -        18       5.125    -        -
1822     2.625                                                 0.25
 ,,      4  4.5   1.825    -        -        -        -        18       3.5      -        -
1824                                                           3.75
 ,,      4  5.5   1        -        -        -        -        18       6        -        -
1826                                                           9.75
 ,,      4  8     2.5      -        -        -        -        18       2        -        -
1828                                                           11.75
 ,,      4 10     2        -        -        12       -        19       0.75      4  3    -
1830                                         4.5               0.5
 ,,      4        0.75     -        -        -        -        19       1.25     -        -
1832     10.75                                                 1.75
 ,,      4        0.5      -        -        -        -        19  4    2.25      6       -
1834     11.25                                                                   1.75
 ,,      5  0     0.75     -        -        -        -        19  9    5         6  9    7.25
1836
 ,,      5        0.75     17  9             12       6        20  2    5         7       3.5
1838     0.75                                10.5                                0.5
 ,,      5  1     0.25     17 10    1        12       0.25     20  4    2         7  7    6.5
1840                                         10.75
 ,,      5        0.25     17       1.25     12       0.75     20  8    4         8  0    5
1842     1.25              11.25             11.5
 ,,      5  3.5   2.25     18       3.5      13  1    1.5      -        -         8 10    10
1844                       2.75
 ,,      5        1.25     18       0.75     13       1.5      21  0    4         9       5.25
1846     4.75              3.5               2.5                                 3.25
 ,,      5  6     1.25     18       1.75     13  4    1.5      21  4    4         9 10    6.75
1848                       5.25
 ,,      5  6.5   0.5      18  6    0.75     13       0.75     21       2.5      10  2    4
1850                                         4.75              6.5
 ,,      5  7     0.5      18       0.5      13       0.5      21  8    1.5      10  8    6
1852                       6.5               5.25
 ,,      cut      -        18       0.75     13       2.75     21 10    2        11       6.5
1854     down              7.25              7.5                                 2.5



TABLE 2.--FORMED BY MR. MACHEN.


An Account of the Admeasurement of several Oak Trees in the Bailey Copse
(North), A, B, C, D, E, and F.

N.B.--The Copse was open for many years, and the Oak underwood kept down
by cattle browsing.  It was enclosed in 1813, and thickly stored, and the
underwood cut in 1817.  It is now (1818) well stored with young Oaks of
the same description as those measured.


         A                 B                 C                 D                 E                 F
                  Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc
         in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.
Oct.     7.75     -        10.75    -        9.5      -        9        -        12.625   -        10.75    -
1818
 ,,      9        1.25     13       2.25     10.5     1        10.25    1.25     14.375   1.75     12.125   1.375
1820
 ,,      10.25    1.25     15.125   2.125    11.25    0.75     11.5     1.25     16.25    1.825    13       0.825
1822
 ,,      11.375   1.125    17.125   2        12.375   1.125    12.625   1.125    17.75    1.5      14.75    1.75
1824
 ,,      12.25    0.825    18.75    1.625    13.25    0.825    13.75    1.125    19.125   1.375    16.125   1.375
1826
 ,,      13.125   0.825    19.5     0.75     13.75    0.5      14.5     0.75     20.375   1.25     17.25    1.125
1828
 ,,      13.625   0.5      20.375   0.825    14       0.25     15.25    0.75     21       0.625    17.75    0.5
1830
 ,,      15.375   1.75     22.25    1.825    14.5     0.5      16.625   1.375    22.5     1.5      19.25    1.5
1832
 ,,      17.375   2        25       2.75     15.625   1.125    18.125   1.5      24       1.5      21       1.75
1834
 ,,      19.125   1.75     27.75    2.75     17.625   2        19.5     1.375    25.75    1.75     22.75    1.75
1836
 ,,      21.125   2        30.375   2.625    19       1.375    20.75    1.25     27.75    2        24.25    1.5
1838
 ,,      22.825   1.75     32       1.625    20.375   1.375    21.75    1        29       1.25     25.75    1.5
1840
 ,,      24.625   1.75     33.825   1.825    21.75    1.375    22.625   0.825    30.25    1.25     27       1.25
1842
 ,,      26       1.375    34.75    0.825    22       0.25     22.825   0.25     30.75    0.5      27.5     0.5
1844
 ,,      27.5     1.5      36.5     1.75     22.75    0.75     23.625   0.75     32.125   1.375    28.625   1.125
1846
 ,,      30       2.5      38.75    2.25     24.5     1.75     25.25    1.5      34.125   2        30.625   2
1848
 ,,      31.5     1.5      40.5     1.75     26       1.5      26       0.75     35.5     1.375    32.5     1.825
1850
 ,,      32.75    1.25     41       0.5      26.75    0.75     26.25    0.25     37       1.5      33.75    1.25
1852
 ,,      33.75    1        44       3        26.75    -        27.25    1        37.75    0.75     34.75    1
1854



TABLE 3.--FORMED BY MR. MACHEN.


An Account of the Admeasurement of Seven Beech Timber Trees growing in
Doward Wood, near the walk by the side of the River Wye.  They are clean
and smooth in the bark, and appear fast growing.


         A                 B                 C                 D                 E                 F                 G
                  Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc
         ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins      ins
Oct.     64.5     -        52       -        56.25    -        58.25    -        56.5     -        53.25    -        47.25    -
1838
 ,,      65       0.5      53       1        57.125   0.825    59       0.75     57.5     1        53.75    0.5      49       1.75
1840
 ,,      66.75    1.75     54.25    1.25     58.5     1.375    60.375   1.375    58.625   1.125    55.125   1.375    49       -
1842
 ,,      69.75    3        54.5     0.25     59       0.5      61.25    0.825    59       0.375    55.75    0.625    49       -
1844
 ,,      73       3.25     55.5     1        60.25    1.25     62       0.75     59.5     0.5      56.5     0.75     49.5     0.5
1846
 ,,      73.25    0.25     56       0.5      61.5     1.25     62.25    0.25     60.25    0.75     57.5     1        50.5     1
1848
 ,,      73.5     0.25     56.25    0.25     62.5     1        63.25    1        60.5     0.25     58.75    1.25     50.75    0.25
1850
 ,,      76       2.5      56.5     0.25     63.25    0.75     64.5     1.25     61.5     1        59.5     0.75     51.5     0.75
1852
 ,,      78       2        58       1.5      64.75    1.5      65.625   1.125    62.5     1        61.25    1.75     52.5     1
1854



TABLE 4.--FORMED BY MR. MACHEN.


An Account of the Admeasurement of 14 Oak Timber Trees, A, B, C, D, E, F,
and G, growing on Hall's Hill, and H, I, J, K, L, M, and N, on
Pritchard's Hill, both near the Ride in the Highmeadow Woods.  The trees
are probably now (1822) 80 or 90 years old.


FIRST PART.



         A                 B                 C                 D                 E                 F                 G
                  Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc
         in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.
Oct      61       -        62       -        65.5     -        67.375   -        46.5     -        82.5     -        49       -
1822
 ,,      62.5     1.5      63.75    1.75     68       2.5      69       1.625    49.25    2.75     83.25    0.75     52       3
1824
 ,,      65       2.5      65.75    2        71.75    3.75     71.5     2.5      52       2.75     84       0.75     55.5     3.5
1826
 ,,      67.25    2.25     67.5     1.75     74.5     2.75     73.25    1.75     54.75    2.75     85       1        58       2.5
1828
 ,,      68.25    1        68.5     1        75       0.5      73.75    0.5      55.25    0.5      87.25    2.25     59       1
1830
 ,,      69       0.75     69.5     1        76.5     1.5      74.25    0.5      56.75    1.5      88.25    1        60.5     1.5
1832
 ,,      71       2        71.25    1.75     77.5     1        75.25    1        57.5     0.75     90       1.75     61.5     1
1834
 ,,      72.5     1.5      72.75    1.5      78.5     1        76       0.75     58       0.5      91       1        62.5     1
1836
 ,,      73.5     1        73.5     0.75     79.75    1.25     76.5     0.5      59       1        92       1        63.75    1.25
1838
 ,,      74       0.5      74.75    1.25     80.25    0.5      78       1.5      59.25    0.25     92.5     0.5      64       0.25
1840
 ,,      75.625   1.625    74.825   0.125    81.5     1.25     79.125   1.125    59.25    -        93.375   0.825    64       -
1842
 ,,      76.75    1.125    75.75    0.825    82       0.5      80.25    1.125    60.5     1.25     93.75    0.375    65.75    1.75
1844
 ,,      78       1.25     77.5     1.75     82.75    0.75     81.5     1.25     61.5     1        96       2.25     67       1.25
1846
 ,,      80.25    2.25     78.5     1        83.25    0.5      82.25    0.75     63       1.5      96.25    0.25     67       -
1848
 ,,      82       1.75     79.75    1.25     84.75    1.5      83.75    1.5      64.5     1.5      98       1.75     68       1
1850
 ,,      82.5     0.5      80.5     0.75     85.25    0.5      83.75    -        65.25    0.75     98.5     0.5      69.75    1.75
1852
 ,,      83.25    0.75     81.25    0.75     85.5     0.25     86       2.25     66.25    1        99.25    0.75     71       1.25
1854



SECOND PART.



         H                 I                 J                 K                 L                 M                 N
                  Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc               Inc
         in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.      in.
Oct      49       -        31.25    -        46.75    -        30       -        67.25    -        36.75    -        28       -
1822
 ,,      52.25    3.25     32.25    1        49.5     2.75     32       2        69.75    2.5      39       2.25     29.75    1.75
1824
 ,,      55.75    3.5      33.75    1.5      52.5     3        34.5     2        72.5     2.75     42.25    3.25     31.75    2
1826
 ,,      58.25    2.5      35.25    1.5      55.25    2.75     37       2.5      75       2.5      45       2.75     34       2.25
1828
 ,,      59       0.75     36       0.75     56       0.75     37.5     0.5      76       1        45.5     0.5      34.5     0.5
1830
 ,,      60.25    1.25     38       2        57.25    1.25     39       1.5      77.5     1.5      47.25    1.75     36.25    1.75
1832
 ,,      61       0.75     38.75    0.75     58       0.75     39       -        78.75    0.75     48       0.75     37       0.75
1834
 ,,      62       1        39.5     0.75     59       1        40       1        79       0.25     48.75    0.75     38       1
1836
 ,,      62.75    0.75     40.5     1        60.25    1.25     41.75    1.75     80.25    1.25     50       1.25     39       1
1838
 ,,      63       0.25     41.25    0.75     61       0.75     42.75    1        82.25    2        51.5     1.5      39.25    0.25
1840
 ,,      63.75    0.75     41.25    -        61       -        43.25    0.5      83.25    1        53.25    1.75     39.5     0.25
1842
 ,,      64.25    0.5      42       0.75     62       1        44       0.75     84.75    1.5      54.5     1.25     40.125   0.625
1844
 ,,      66.25    2        43       1        62.75    0.75     45.25    0.5      85.75    1        55.5     1        41       0.825
1846
 ,,      67       0.75     44       1        63.75    1        46.25    1        86.5     0.75     57       1.5      42       1
1848
 ,,      68.75    1.75     44.5     0.5      65       1.25     47.5     1.25     88       1.5      58       1        43       1
1850
 ,,      69       0.25     44.75    0.25     65.75    0.75     48       0.5      89       1        59       1        43.75    0.75
1852
 ,,      69.5     0.5      45.75    1        66.375   0.625    48.75    0.75     90       1        60       1        44       0.25
1854



TABLE 5.--FORMED BY MR. MACHEN.


An Account of the Admeasurement of nine Trees growing on York Lodge Hill:
A, B, C are Oaks; D, E, F are Turkey Oaks; and G, H, I are Chesnuts.
These trees have been planted singly on the open Forest without any Fence
(now 1836), about 20 years since.


FIRST PART.



            A.          Oak.        B.          Oak.        C.          Oak.        D.          Turkey      E.          Turkey Oak.
                                                                                                Oak.
                        Inc                     Inc                     Inc                     Inc                     Inc
            ft.in.      in.         ft.in.      in.         ft.in.      in.         ft.in.      in.         ft.in.      in.
Oct 1836     2  8.5     -            2  5       -            2  9.25    -            1  7.5     -            1  9       -
 ,,  1838    2 11       2.5          2  6.75    1.75         2 11.25    2            1 10       2.5          1 11.5     2.5
 ,,  1840    3  0.25    1.25         2  8.5     1.75         3  1.5     2.25         2  0.75    2.75         2  2.5     3
 ,,  1842    3  2       1.75         2 10       1.5          3  3.5     2            2  3.5     2.75         2  5.5     3
 ,,  1844    3  5.5     3.5          3  1       3            3  6.5     3            2  7       3.5          2  9       3.5
 ,,  1846    3  8       2.5          3  2       1            3 10       3.5          2 10       3            3  0       3
 ,,  1848    3 10.25    2.25         3  4       2            4  1       3            3  1       3            3  2.25    2.25
 ,,  1850    4  0.5     2.25         3  5.5     1.5          4  2       1            3  2.75     1.75        3  4.25    2
 ,,  1852    4  2.75    2.25         3  7.5     2            4  4       2            3  4.75    2            3  6.5     2.25
 ,,  1854    4  5.75    3            3 10       2.5          4  7       3            3  8.75    4            3 10.5     4



SECOND PART.



               F              Turkey Oak.    G              Chesnut.       H              Chesnut.       I              Chesnut.
                              Inc                           Inc                           Inc                           Inc
               ft.in.         in.            ft.in.         in.            ft.in.         in.            ft.in.         in.
Oct 1836        1  7.25       -               1 11.5        -               2  2          -               2  0.25       -
 ,,  1838       1 10.25       3               2  3          3.5             2  5.5        3.5             2  5          4.75
 ,,  1840       2  1.25       3               2  5.75       2.75            2  8.75       3.25            2 10          5
 ,,  1842       2  4.5        3.25            2  9.5        3.75            3  0          3.25            3  3.5        5.5
 ,,  1844       2  8          3.5             3  1          3.5             3  2          2               3  9          5.5
 ,,  1846       2 11          3               3  4          3               3  5.5        3.5             4  2.75       5.75
 ,,  1848       3  2.25       3.25            3  7.5        3               3  8.5        3               4  7.75       5
 ,,  1850       3  4.25       2               3 10          2.5             3  9.75       1.25            4 11          3.25
 ,,  1852       3  6.75       2.25            4  1          3               3 11.5        1.75            5  3.5        4.5
 ,,  1854       3 10          3.25            4  5          4               4  3.5        4               5  8.25       4.75


_The following letter of Mr. Vaughan_, _of Court Field on the Wye_, _near
Lydbrook, merits insertion_, _as bearing testimony to the value of the
preceding Tables compiled by Mr. Machen_, _exhibiting the growth of Trees
in the Forest_.

                                           "Court Field, October 15, 1841.

    "MY DEAR SIR,

    "I thank you very much for the interesting account you have sent me
    of the result of your observation during a series of years upon the
    growth of trees.  It is really a most curious document.  I ought to
    have thanked you sooner, but I was anxious, first, to compare your
    Table with the result of my own admeasurements of trees at Court
    Field in various situations; and give you, at the same time, the
    result of my calculations.

    "I find that my experience fully corroborates yours, though it
    induces me to believe that the forest growth is slightly below an
    average--which the soil and situation would also induce one to
    imagine.

    "I calculate, from your Table, that an oak-tree measuring 6 inches
    girt doubles its contents (exclusive of its increase in height and
    limb) in 5 to 6 years.  Whereas, a tree measuring 8.5 inches, or half
    a foot girt, requires 10 or 12 years to double itself.

    "With regard to the trees 170 years old, I find that A has increased
    19 feet or 28 per cent. only in 30 years, and B 26 feet or 48 per
    cent. during the same period; neither, therefore, paying much
    interest on their value within the last 30 years.

    "I calculate that the value of the acres of growing timber which you
    refer to (73 oaks averaging 58 feet) would be 624 pounds at 7 pounds
    10s. per 50 feet; or, if the original value of the land and expense
    of ploughing it amounted to 25 pounds, about twenty-five times its
    original value.

    "If the thinnings be considered equivalent to the expense of
    protection-fences, &c., and 25 pounds at compound interest for 170
    years be calculated, 624 pounds will be found to be less than 1/20
    per cent. = a hundredth of 5 per cent. per annum.

    "I remain, my dear Sir, very faithfully yours,

                                                        "JOHN V. VAUGHAN."



No. IV.
Mr. Wyrrall's Survey of the Forest of Dean Iron Works in 1635.


"_Canop Furnace_.--Most pt new built, the rest repaired by the Farmers,
22ft square, wheel 22ft diamr.  Furnace box built 4 years since by the
Farmers.  Bridge-house 48ft by 21, 9 high, built 4 years, Bellow's boards
18ft by 4.  Clerk's house and stable built by the Farmers.  A cottage
built by the Workmen belonging to the Works, now occupied by the Filler.
Built before the Farmers hired.--Founder's house, Minecracker's cabin, A
Mine Kiln.

"_Park Furnace_.--Same dimensions, repaired 4 years since by the Farmers,
Wheel and almost all the houses built by the Farmers.

"_Park end Forge_.--2 Hamrs, 3 Fineries, 1 Chaffery, repd 2 years since,
one of the Fineries new.

"_Whitecroft Forge_,--built abt 6 yrs since by the Farmers, do do

"_Bradley Forge_.--do do do

"_Sowdley Furnace_, built 3 years--Qu. if rebuilt?  Bridge house, pt
built by the farmers, pt old and decayd, Trow leading to the wheel, .5
made new 5 years since, decayd, 5 Cottages, 1 built by the Farmers.  A
dam a mile above Sowdley built by the Farmers.  A dam half a mile still
higher, built long since.

"_Sowdley Forge_, 2 Fineries, 1 Chaffery built 2 years, in the place of
the old Forge.  Trows & Penstocks made new by the Farmers, decayed.

"_Lydbrook Furnace_, 23ft long, 9 bottom, 23ft deep, new built 3 yrs
since from the ground, 3 ft higher than before, much cracked.  A great
Buttress behind the Furnace to strengthen it.

"_Lydbrook Forge_.--1 Chaffery, 2 Fineries, House built 4 years, being
burnt by accident."

Besides the above, Mr. Wyrrall also transcribed the following additional
particulars from a MS. dated 23 September, 1635, and endorsed,--"The
booke of Survey for the Forest of Deane Iron work, and the Warrant
annexed unto yt."

"_Cannope Furnace_.--Now blowinge, and likely to contynue aboute 3 weeks.
The most part new built, and the rest repaired by the Farmers about 4
years since.  Stone walls, about 60lb, consistinge of the stone body
thereof 22 foote square, wherein are:--

     "In the fore front 4 Sowes of Iron }
      and the Tempiron Wall 3 Sowes     } 7 Sowes.

"A Wheele, 22 Foote diamr, 7 Iron Whops, one the Waste, made about three
years since.  With Shafte and all things belonginge about 20lb, in good
repaire.

"The Furnace Howse half tiled, built with timber 4 years since by the
Farmers, cost about 80lb, in repaire.

"The Bridge house, 21 foot broad, 48 foot longe, and 9 foote heigh, built
about 2 years since, the bridge about 4 years, covered with bords
bottomed with Planks.

"5 bellow bords ready sawed, 18ft longe, 4ft broad.  A Watter Trowe 1ft
at bottome and 15 ynches high, 75 yards longe, leadinge the water to the
Wheele, cut out of the whole tymber, and ledged at the top, newe made
within 4 years, and now in repaire, cost about 20lb.

"The Hutch leading the Watter from the Wheele, 5 foot square, 85 foote
long, not mended by these farmers, in repaire.

"In doinge of the saied Workes, besids the Hutch used by estimate about
150 Tonns, at VIIIS, and the Hutch about 40 Tonns, being trees only slitt
and clapt together at 5s the Ton.

"_Outhouses_.--The Furnace Keeper's Cabbyne built of timber covered with
bords built by the Farmers, cost 3lb, 4 tonns.

"A Cottage neare the said Furnaces built by the workmen of the said
Works, now enjoyed by the Filler there, and not belonging to the Workes.

"A Howse wherein the Clarke dwells, built by the Farmers wth a stable, 20
Nobs 6 Tonns.

"Another howse adjoyninge for the founder, built before the Farmers'
time.

"Another little cabbyne for the Myne Cracker, built before the Farmers'
time.

"8 dozen of Collyers Hurdles, 13s 4d.

"A Myne Kilne not in repaire, built before the Farmers' tyme, with 5
piggs of Iron in the walls, 20s will repaire.

"Cole places.

"_Implemnts_--one paire of Bellowes furnished with iron implemnts,
somewhat defective in the lethers, valued at 15lb, made by the Farmers,
the repaire whereof will cost 6lb 13s 4d.

"6 cambes of iron in Wheele Shafte waying about 4cwt.

"3 water Trowes for the Worke.

"1 Grindstone, 19 longe Ringers, 1 short one, 1 Constable, 7 Sinder
Shovells, 1 moulding Ship, 2 casting ladles, 1 cinder hooke, 1 Plackett,
2 buck stoves, 1 Tuiron hooke, 1 Iron Tempe, 1 Sinder plate, 1 dame
plate.

"4 Wheele barrowes, 1 great Sledge, 1 Tuiron plate cast, 1 Shamell plate,
1 Gage, 1 crackt wooden beame and scales, furnished, and triangles, 1 ton
of Wtts, Pigs used for weights upon the bellows poises, 3.5c of Rawe
Iron, 1 new firkett in the Backside, 1 lader of 14 rungs, 1 dozen of cole
basketts, 2 Myne hammers, 2 Myne Shovells, 2 Coale Rakes, 2 Myne Rakes, 2
baskes to put myne into the Furnace.

"_Parke Furnace_.--The stone body thereof 22 foote square in the Front, 2
broken sowes, one taken thence, 2 sowes in the Wall.

"Repaired 4 years since by the Farmers, viz., the backe wall from the
foundation to the top, and parte of the wall over the Bellows, 40lb it
cost.

"The Water Wheele 22ft heigh, wth a Shaft whereon 7 whops, 2 Gudgions and
2 brasses, built about the same tyme, in repaire, valued at 20lb.  The
Furnace Howse tiled, built with stone wall 9 foot heigh, 22 foote square,
the Roof good, built about the same tyme, in repair, saving a Lace by the
Bridge.  The stone worke valued at 10lb.  The Carpenter's worke one the
roofe at 20s, the tilinge valued at 6lb 13s 4d.

"A Pent house under the Furnace, 10s.

"The Bridge House 42ft longe, 22ft broad, the said walles 8.5 foot,
covered with boards, double bottomed with plancke, upon stronge sleepers,
valued at 40lb.

"Fence Walls all built by the Farmers about 4 yeares since.

"100 Foote of trowes made of square timber, hollowed and covered with
plancke, valued at 10lb, made by the Farmers.

"Another Water course, built with stone one both sides and covered wth
planckes 2.5 foot broad, 46 foot, in repaire, 5lb.

"An Iron cast grate one the same watercourse.

"A watercourse of half a mile one the North of the Furnace, at the head
thereof a dam and a small breach, wants soweringe, otherwise good, cutt
by the Farmers, and cost them 20lb, and will cost 3lb.

"A Water course of above .5 mile to the South, made before their tyme.

"The Hutch built with stone and covered with plankes of 6 foot heigh, 3
foot broad, 70ft, saving about 11 foot at the vent which is timber,
repaired by the Farmers, in repaire, but the Courant stopt below with
cinders, 13lb 6s 8d; the cutting of a newe will cost 8lb.

"The Fownder's howse built before the Farmers' tyme.

"A Cottage adjoininge.

"A Cabbyne for the bridge-server, covered with boards, built by them
about a yeare since, 3 tonns, 18ft longe, 11 broad, valued at 5lb.

"A Cabbyne adjoining to the Furnace for the Furnace Keeper, about a Tonn,
built by the Farmers, and valued at 2lb.

"A Faire Howse, the ends stone built, the rest with Timber 50 foot longe,
16 broad; in it is a crosse building stories heigh, in repaire, tiled,
built before the Farmers now granted, with 2 stables belonging, of
tymber.

"A smale cottage, now William Wayt's.

"A myne kilne, the inside in decay, the piggs of iron taken out of the
draught thereof, the repaire will cost 2lb.

"Tymber in doeinge of }
the saied worke ..  } 150 Tonnes, worth VIS VIIID the tonne.

"_Implemnts_.--1 pr bellowes open with the furniture of iron thereto
belonging, defective in the lethers, valued at 13lb 6s 8d, the repaire
will cost 10lb.; 2 buckstaves, 1 dam-plate, 2 sinder plats, 1 tuiron
plate, 1 plackett, 1 gadge, 1 tuiron hoocke, 1 dam hoocke or stopinge
hoocke, 4 iron shovells, 9 ringers, 6 cole baskets, 2 wheel barrows, 2
myne hammers, 1 coale rake, 2 cinder raks, 1 great sledge, 1 ringer
hammer, 1 constable, 1 shammell plate, 6 iron cambs.

"A beame with scales, hoocks, triangles, and lincks, with about .5 a ton
of rawe iron for a wt, in repaire; 1 sowe of iron of 16cwt. which was in
the front wall, soe now lyes before the doore, 5lb.

"1 Grindstone, 2 bellowe boards, never used, and 4 old ones, 1lb 10s.

"Collyers' Hurdles.

"The tymber ymployed about the said worke estimated at 140 tonns, and
valued at 8s the tonn, 56lb.

"The Repaire of the body of the furnace and the buildings, beames thereto
belonginge, and other defects, to make it fit to blowe, estimated at
60lb.

"_Parkend Forge_--consistinge of 2 hamers, 3 Fyneryes, and 1 chaffery,
repayered about 2 years since by the Farmers, viz., 2 newe drome beames,
2 great hamers, shafts with wheeles and armes all newe, the body of the
forge repaired in sundry places, one of the fyneryes built newe with the
whole and shafts.

"The harmes to the great hamers newe and in repaire, valued at 12lb.

"One other finerye chimney, made within the yeare, 5lb, 3 newe trowes
through the bay, 26ft longe a piece, covered with planke one the west
side, 13lb 6s 8d.

"The hamer hutch one the west side, heigh and broad one the one side,
plancked in the bottome ranges of tymber with spreaders conteyninge 150
foote in length, 40lb.

"The chaffery wheele in the west side, old and decayed, 3lb to repaire
it.

"One longe trowe one the est side leadinge the watter to the fynerye, 66
foote longe, 6lb 13s 4d; another great trowe with a penstocke, 32 foote,
cost 3lb 6s 8d; 1 great penstocke in the hamer trowe, 14 foot longe, 2
foote square, 40s.

"2 Water Pricke Posts with his laces, 4lb.

"The Hamer Hutch one the west side, 4 foote square, bottoms and sides
with plancks, 2 ranges of timber 150 foote longe, 10lb.

"The bodye of one Fynerye wheele all newe, made within 2 yeares last past
by the Farmers.

"One little house for the carpenter to work in one the bay.

"Two ranges of tymber worke in the lower side of the bay, consistinge of
sils, laces, and posts, built by the Farmers within 2 yeares, 120 foote,
12 heigh, 80lb.

"The front of the bay where the water is led to the west side and
drawinge gates built about 2 years since.  Stone walls on each side, 5lb.

"A flowd gate with 6 sluices, strongly tymbered, built with stronge wall
one either side thereof, 160 foote longe, 3ft heigh, 3 foot thicke,
aproned and plancked on the top for a bridge 3 years since, 44 foot
longe, 22ft broad, 50lb.

                                * * * * *

The same careful investigator (Mr. Wyrrall) of every particular relating
to the iron-works of the Forest formed a glossary of the terms used in
the above specifications, which not only sufficiently explains them, but
also shows that very similar apparatus continued to be used in this
neighbourhood up to the close of the last century.  It proceeds thus:--

"_Sows of Iron_ are the long pieces of cast iron as they run into the
sand immediately from the furnace; thus called from the appearance of
this and the shorter pieces which are runned into smaller gutters made in
the same sand, from the resemblance they have to a sow lying on her side
with her pigs at her dugs.  These are for working up in the forges; but
it is usual to cast other sows of iron of very great size to lay in the
walls of the furnaces as beams to support the great strain of the work.

"_Dam Plate_ is a large flat plate of cast iron placed on its edge
against the front of the furnace, with a stone cut sloping and placed on
the inside.  This plate has a notch on the top for the cinder or scruff
to run off, and a place at the side to discharge the metal at casting.

"_The Shaft_ of a wheel is a large round beam having the wheel fixed near
the one end of it, and turning upon gudgeons or centres fixed in the two
ends.

"_The Furnace House_ I take to be what we call the casting house, where
the metal runs out of the furnace into the sand.

"_The Bridge_ is the place where the raw materials are laid down ready to
be thrown into the furnace.  I conceive that it had its name (which is
still continued) from this circumstance--that in the infancy of these
works it was built as a bridge, hollow underneath.  It was not at first
known what strength was required to support the blast of a furnace
bellows; and the consequence was that they were often out of repair, and
frequently obliged to be built almost entirely new.

"_Bellows Boards_--not very different from the present dimensions.

"_Water Troughs_--scooped out of the solid timber.  This shows the great
simplicity of these times, not 150 years ago.

"_The Hutch_, or as it is now corruptly called the Witch, a wide covered
drain below the furnace-wheel to carry off the water from it, usually
arched, but here only covered with timbers to support the rubbish and
earth thrown upon it.

"_Cambs_ are iron cogs fixed in the shaft to work the bellows as the
wheel turns round.

"_Cinder Shovels_, iron shovels for taking up the cinders into the boxes,
both to measure them and to fill the furnace.

"_Moulding Ship_, an iron tool fixed on a wooden handle, so formed as to
make the gutters in the sand for casting the pig and sow iron.

"_Casting Ladles_, made hollow like a dish, with a lip to lade up the
liquid iron for small castings.

"_Wringers_, large long bars of iron to wring the furnace, that is to
clear it of the grosser and least fluid cinder which rises on the upper
surface, and would there coagulate and soon prevent the furnace from
working aright.

"_Constable_, a bar of very great substance and length, kept always lying
by a furnace in readiness for extraordinary purposes in which uncommon
strength and purchase were required.  I suppose this name to have been
given to this tool on account of its superior bulk and power, and in
allusion to the Constable of St. Briavel's Castle, an officer heretofore
of very great weight and consequence in this Forest.

"_Cinder Hook_, a hook of iron for drawing away the scruff or cinder
which runs liquid out of the furnace over the dam plate, and soon becomes
a solid substance, which must be removed to make room for fresh cinder to
run out into its place.

"_Plackett_, a tool contrived as a kind of trowel for smoothing and
shaping the clay.

"_Buckstones_, now called Buckstaves, are two thick plates of iron, about
5 or 6 feet long, fixed one on each side of the front of the furnace down
to the ground to support the stone work.

"_Iron Tempe_ is a plate fixed at the bottom of the front wall of the
furnace over the flame between the buck-staves.

"_Tuiron Plate_ is a plate of cast iron fixed before the noses of the
bellows, and so shaped as to conduct the blast into the body of the
furnace.

"_Tuiron Hooke_, a tool contrived for conveying a lump of tempered clay
before the point of the tuiron plate, to guard the wall from wearing away
as it would otherwise do in that part, there being the greatest force of
the fire.

"_Shammel Plate_, a piece of cast iron fixed on a wooden frame, in the
shape of a ---|, which works up and down as a crank, so as for the camb
to lay hold of this iron, and thereby press down the bellows.

"_Firketts_ are large square pieces of timber laid upon the upper woods
of the bellows, to steady it and to work it.

"_Firkett Hooks_, two strong hooks of square wrought iron fixed at the
smallest end of the bellows to keep it firm and in its place.

"_Gage_, two rods of iron jointed in the middle, with a ring for the
filler to drop the shortest end into the furnace at the top, to know when
it is worked down low enough to be charged again.

"_Poises_, wooden beams, one over each bellows, fixed upon centres across
another very large beam; at the longest end of these poises are open
boxes bound with iron, and the little end being fixed with harness to the
upper ends of the firketts are thus pressed down, and the bellows with it
by the working of the wheel, while the weight of the poises lifts them up
alternately as the wheel goes round."



No. V.
Dr. Parson's description of the mode of making Iron.


"After they have provided their ore, their first work is to calcine it,
which is done in kilns, much after the fashion of our ordinary
lime-kilns; these they fill up to the top with coal and ore untill it be
full, and so putting fire to the bottom, they let it burn till the coal
be wasted, and then renew the kilnes with fresh ore and coal: this is
done without any infusion of mettal, and serves to consume the more
drossy part of the ore, and to make it fryable, supplying the beating and
washing, which are to no other mettals; from hence they carry it to their
furnaces, which are built of brick and stone, about 24 foot square on the
outside, and near 30 foot in hight within, and not above 8 or 10 foot
over where it is widest, which is about the middle, the top and bottom
having a narrow compass, much like the form of an egg.  Behind the
furnace are placed two high pair of bellows, whose noses meet at a little
hole near the bottom: these are compressed together by certain buttons
placed on the axis of a very large wheel, which is turned round by water,
in the manner of an overshot mill.  As soon as these buttons are slid
off, the bellows are raised again by a counterpoise of weights, whereby
they are made to play alternately, the one giving its blast whilst the
other is rising.

"At first they fill these furnaces with ore and cinder intermixt with
fuel, which in these works is always charcoal, laying them hollow at the
bottom, that they may the more easily take fire; but after they are once
kindled, the materials run together into an hard cake or lump, which is
sustained by the furnace, and through this the mettal as it runs trickles
down the receivers, which are placed at the bottom, where there is a
passage open, by which they take away the scum and dross, and let out
their mettal as they see occasion.  Before the mouth of the furnace lyeth
a great bed of sand, where they make furrows of the fashion they desire
to cast their iron: into these, when the receivers are full, they let in
their mettal, which is made so very fluid by the violence of the fire,
that it not only runs to a considerable distance, but stands afterwards
boiling a great while.

"After these furnaces are once at work, they keep them constantly
employed for many months together, never suffering the fire to slacken
night or day, but still supplying the waste of fuel and other materials
with fresh, poured in at the top.

"Several attempts have been made to bring in the use of the sea coal in
these works instead of charcoal; the former being to be had at an easy
rate, the latter not without a great expence; but hitherto they have
proved ineffectual, the workmen finding by experience that a sea coal
fire, how vehement soever, will not penetrate the most fixed parts of the
ore, by which means they leave much of the mettal behind them unmelted.

"From these furnaces they bring the sows and piggs of iron, as they call
them, to their forges; these are two sorts, though they stood together
under the same roof; one they call their finery, and the other chafers:
both of them are upon hearths, upon which they place great heaps of sea
coal, and behind them bellows like those of the furnaces, but nothing
near so large.

"In such finerys they first put their piggs of iron, placing three or
four of them together, behind the fire, with a little of one end thrust
into it, where softening by degrees they stir and work them with long
barrs of iron till the mettal runs together in a round masse or lump,
which they call an half bloome: this they take out, and giving it a few
strokes with their sledges, they carry it to a great weighty hammer,
raised likewise by the motion of a water-wheel, where applying it
dexterously to the blows, they presently beat it into a thick short
square; this they put into the finery again, and heating it red hot, they
work it under the same hammer till it comes to the shape of a bar in the
middle, with two square knobs in the ends; last of all they give it other
beatings in the chaffers, and more workings under the hammer, till they
have brought their iron into barrs of several shapes, in which fashion
they expose them to sale.

"All their principal iron undergoes the aforementioned preparations, yet
for several other purposes, as for backs of chimneys, hearths of ovens,
and the like, they have a sort of cast iron, which they take out of the
receivers of the furnace, so soon as it is melted, in great ladles, and
pour it into the moulds of fine sand in like manner as they do cast brass
and softer mettals; but this sort of iron is so very brittle, that, being
heated with one blow of the hammer, it breaks all to pieces."



No. VI.
Being Minutes, &c., of the Court of Mine Law.


"Forest of Deane to witt.Att a Court of Mine and Miners of Our Sovereign
Lord the King, held att the Speech-ouse, in and for the Forest of Deane,
on Tuesday the 13th day of December, in the year of Our Lord one thousand
seven hundred and forty-eight, before Christopher Bond, Esqr, and Thomas
James, gentleman, deputyes to the Right Honourable Augustus, Earl of
Berkeley, Constable of the Castle of St Briavels, in the County of
Gloucester, Christopher Bond, Esqr, gaveller of the said mines, and
Phillip Elly, deputy gaveller of the said mines.

"_The names of the Jury_.--Richard Powell, Simon Bannister, George
Thomas, Frances Dutheridge, William Kerr, Richard Hawkins, Joseph Cooper,
Samuel Kerr, Henry Roberts, William Meeke, Richard Tingle, James Teague.

"William Gagg otherwise Smith, and his Vearns, _against_ James Bennett
and his Vearns.

"I complaine against William Gagge and his Vearns for hindering our
levell and doing of us willfull trespas, whereby we have sustained great
damage, att a stone (lime) coale worke called Churchway, otherwise
Turnbrooke, in the Hundred of Saint Briavels, (as this,) they hindered
the levell, and deepwall they would not bring forward to our new pit that
was then just downe.  We leave this to the best proof & the order.I asked
them the reason, and they told me it was to make coale scarce and men
plenty; they went back sixteen or eighteen weeks into their scale,
contrary to the rule and custom of all free miners beneath the wood with
us; and likewise before, they hindered the levell in their new deepit.
And wilfully more they cut up to their land gutter, and tooke in the
water by a single sticken gutter in their backer deep pit, and turned it
across the bottom of our deep pit into our air gutter, which we prepared
for ourselves and them, whereby our lamping the charks was swelled downe,
and have destroyed the air, and filled our gateway with water and sludge,
and very likely to destroy the levells, and put us by getting a scale of
coale there.  And by their so doing, I and my vearnes are dampnified
thirty pounds.  All this I will prove myself and by evidence in the
King's mine."

Another suit, dated 20th January, 1753, is also subjoined:--

"William Dukes and his vernes, plaintiffs, _against_ William Keare and
his vernes, defendants.

"We complain against William Keare and his vernes for wrongfully
forbidding us out of a stone coal work, called the Gentlemen Colliers,
within the Hundred of St Briavels, that we should not get any coal of the
deep side of our former work, which coal our levell drains, and ours
being the most ancient level.  We leave this to the best evidence.We have
attended the place, and burned our light, according to our laws and
customs, and through this wrong forbidd we are dampnified five pounds.
And whereas several forbidds have been given before, we, the aforesaid
plaintiffs and defendants, left the same to the determination of Charles
Godwin and Richard James, and we the said plaintiffs have duly observed
the said determination, and that the said defendants have gone contrary
to an order made by 48 free miners in getting of coal that our levell
would have drained, and have dampnified our levell, whereby they have
forfeited the penalty of the said Order.  And this we will prove by
evidence, and the damages in getting coal we will leave to the Order in
Ct.

"We deny the forbid given to him or his vernes.  We forbidd them in
getting any coal betwixt our work and theirs, except their levell could
dry it fairly.  There was an agreement betwixt us, and they went contrary
to the agreement, and this we will prove ourselves and by witnesses."

Here is a copy of an Agreement, resembling no doubt the one mentioned
above:--

"August the 8th.--In the ear of our Lord 1754.  Aun award, or an
Agreement, made by Richard Powell, John Jenkins, Wm Thomas, Thos Worgan,
and James Elsmore, betwixt James Bennet and his vearns, belonging to a
coale work called by the name off Upper Rockey, and Robert Tingle and his
vearnes, belonging to the Inging Coale Work near the Nail Bridge, within
the Hunderd of Saint Bravewells; and we have farther agreed that the fore
said James Bennet and his vearns shall have the liberty of getting what
coale their leavel will dry without being interrupted, but they shall not
get coale by the strength of hauling or laveing of water within the
bounds of Robert Tingle and his vearns, except to drowl their work, under
the forfet of the sum of five pounds; and we do farther agree that Robert
Tingle and his vearns shall com in at any time to see if they do carry on
their work in a proper manner without trespassing them; and if the
foresaid James Bennet and his vearns do interrupt them for comming in to
see their work, they shall forfeit the sum of five pounds.  And we do
order the partys to stand to their expenses share share alike, and the
viewers to be paid between both partys, which his fifteen shillings.

                                         "The mark of X RICHD POWELL.

                                         "The mark of X JOHN JENKINS.

                                         "The mark of X JAMES ELSMORE.

                                         "The mark of X Wm THOMAS.

                                         "The mark of X THOS WORGAN."

The following is a specimen of an official "Forbid:"--

"Thomas Hobbs.  I do hereby, in his Majesty King George the Third's name,
being owner and chief gaveller of his Majesty's Forest of Dean, in the
county of Gloucester, and of the coal and mines therein, forbid you, your
verns, your servants, agents, or workmen, for getting, diging, or raising
any more stone coal out of any fire pitt or pitts, or water pitt or
pitts, a deep the Majors suff level gutter in the said Forest, or to
permit or suffer any stone coal to be got, dug, or raised out of any such
pitt or pitts, untill you have satisfied and paid me his Majesty's gale
and dues for working and getting coal in such pitts for two years last
past, and untill you agree with me for the gale and dues of such pitt and
pitts for the future.  If you break this forbid, you will incur the
penalty of an Order made by forty-eight free miners.

               "Dated this 22d day of } JOHN ROBINSON, &c.,
                          May, 1775.  } deputy gaveller."

In the terms of a Memorandum, apparently of this date, or perhaps
earlier, it is said:--

"The place of gaveler within the Forest of Dean is held by patent from
the Crown, & by vertue of his office the gaveler hath a right to put a
man to work in every coalwork or work for iron mine within the limitts of
the Forest, or within any private person's property in the hundred of St
Briavels (but not in any stone quarry that is belonging to Ld Berkeley).
This right the gaveler never makes use of by setting his man to work in
the mine pitt or coalwork, but lets it out to the partners of the work at
such price as he can agree for, which is from twenty shillings to three
pounds a work."



NOTES.


{2}  It is absolutely certain that the stone may be made to oscillate:
indeed one of the Hadnock woodmen states that when sufficient force is
applied to it, at the proper point, you can even hear the gravel grinding
underneath.

{4}  A corruption, apparently, of the British word "crowll," meaning
"caves."

{12}  We must, however, remember, in calculating the price of labour in
the middle ages, that the value of money was about fifteen times greater
than at present; and the coins, which were of silver, were double their
present weight.

{16}  Of these lands the Rev. G. Ridout, the Vicar, has kindly furnished
the following list:--


                                                 Acres
Land near English Bicknor,                         199
"Hoarthorns," containing
  ,,  ,,          Lydbrook  ,,                      21
  ,,   Ruardean  ,,                                 13
  ,,  ,,  ,,                                        81
  ,,   Flaxley, Little Dean  ,,                     94
  ,,   Abbenhall, "Loquiers"  ,,                    51
  ,,   Hope Mansel  ,,                              41
  ,,   Weston  ,,                                   37
  ,,   Lea and Longhope  ,,                         90
  ,,   Lydney and Blackney  ,,                     329
  ,,   Paster, Nels, and                           507
Whitecroft  ,,
  ,,   Ellwood  ,,                                 134
  ,,   Whitemead  ,,                               220
  ,,   Bream  ,,                                   213
                                                  ----
                                                  2030

{18}  See ante, p. 7 and 13.

{25}  See post, p. 116.

{27}  One of them, as a specimen, will be found in the Appendix No. II.

{85}  The meat market there is reported to have been much injured long
before this time, by the singular circumstance of a murderer, named Eli
Hatton, having been gibbeted on Pingry Tump, a point on the Forest hills
overlooking the town, the flies from the body being supposed to resort to
the meat on the butchers' stalls.  The body was cut down in the night
time, but the stump of the gallows is yet remembered by old inhabitants
as "Eli's Post," and as a spot to be avoided, especially at night.

{87}  Mr. C. Meek, of the Morse, has ascertained that Lord Nelson spent
the 20th, 21st, 22nd of August, 1802, at Rudhall House, near Ross.

{89}  See page 79.

{95}  Drawings of the mice were made and sent to Lord Glenbervie.

{111}  Warren James was concealed in a coal-pit on Breem's Eaves, and was
induced to come up by Thos. Watkins, who had the reward offered for his
apprehension.  With the exception of his conduct on this occasion, he was
a man of good character, and a dutiful and affectionate son to an aged
mother, who was supported by him.

{118}  The map at page 15 exhibits the direction taken on this occasion.

{122}  To such a scheme the chief objection, in the words of the Hon.
Thomas Frankland Lewis, appeared to be, that, "unless guarded against by
some special provisions, the land will become subject to all the abuses
which are so much complained of as to charity lands in general.  It is
altogether unlike a fund to be raised when and as it is wanted; there it
is, and it must and will create objects on which to bestow itself, if it
does not find them."  The proposition was consequently not carried into
effect.

{126}  These three gentlemen opened their commission on Wednesday the 5th
of September following, at Coleford, and after successive meetings it was
there finally closed on Monday, the 20th of July, 1841.

{149a}  The same stick was usually employed, being considered by long
usage as consecrated to the purpose.

{149b}  A pleasing emblem of such improvement seems manifested in the
following lines of Richard Morse (a young native Forester), on a
"Primrose found in a natural arbour among the large oaks in the Forest."

    "Pretty little lonely flower,
    How I love thy modest blow!
    Ever grace this little bower,
    Here in safety ever grow.

    "And, if tempted by ambition
    E'er to leave my humble cot,
    May I learn from thee submission
    To be happy with my lot.

    "For while storms spread desolation
    '<DW41> the lofty trees around,
    In thy lowly situation
    Peace and safety may be found.

    "So, when states and empires shaking
    Bid the rich and great beware,
    I, comparatively speaking,
    Am secure from strife and care.

    "Though the wintry blast should wither
    Thy pale blow--thy leaves decay,
    Gales, the first that spring sends hither,
    Thy perfume shall bear away.

    "And like thee, I too shall perish,
    When my life's brief summer 's o'er;
    But there is a hope I cherish,
    To be blest for evermore.

    "Winter past, so drear and hoary,
    Thou again wilt spring and bloom:
    So I hope to rise in glory
    From the darkness of the tomb."

{151}  The preservation of the existing crop depends mainly upon the
practical inculcation of this principle.

{152}  "River Jordan" occurs in the neighbouring parish registers many
times during the last 150 years; also "Providence Potter;" one of whose
representatives, a sad drunken fellow, once went to his humane squire in
great distress.  The worthy gentleman, after suggesting various
expedients, but to no purpose, at last said--"Well! he could see nothing
for it but to trust in Providence."  "Lord bless ye, Sir, why, Providence
has been dead these ten years."

{163}  The Author has had the satisfaction of promoting the erection of a
tablet in Holy Trinity Church, to the memory of a man who had been so
useful in his generation.

{172}  This liberal gift may be regarded as a fitting memorial of Mr.
Machen's fifty years' services in connexion with the Forest.

{189}  Our best thanks are due to Sir Martin Crawley Boevey, the present
Baronet, by whom many of the incidents in this chapter have been
communicated.

{191}  It is built of the two Forest stones--the red grit with grey stone
facings, the stonework throughout being executed in the most perfect
manner.  The edifice consists of a chancel, nave, and N. aisle, with open
oak roofs, covered with Broseley tile, with crease tiles, and the gables
are mounted with rich floriated crosses.  At the N.W. angle of the
building rises in beautiful proportion the tower, capped with a shingle
broach spire.  The chancel is furnished with a sedile, credence-niche,
stalls, reading desk, and lectern.  The 3-light E. window by Gerente
contains, in twelve compartments, a Personal History of Our Saviour,
suggested by the verses in the Litany:--"By the mystery of Thy holy
incarnation . . . and by the coming of the Holy Ghost."  The other
windows, all different in their tracery, are of Powell's quarry glass.
The alabaster reredos by Philip exhibits in its three medallions the
Feeding of the Multitude, the Institution of the Holy Communion, and the
Agony in the Garden; and on the E. wall are illuminated, by Castell, of
London, the Lord's Prayer, the Ten Commandments, and the Creed.  The
pulpit and font are of Painswick stone, with serpentine marble shafts;
and the chancel rails, stalls, open seats, together with an exquisitely
worked south porch, are of massive oak.

{197}  The new road over the Plump Hill in its formation exposed an
ancient mine-hole, in which was found a heap of half-consumed embers, and
the skull of what appeared from its tusks to be a wild boar, the
fragments perhaps of a feast partaken of by our Forest ancestors.

{198}  One, or perhaps two roads, traversing the Forest from north to
south, are yet wanting for public accommodation.

{216}  Amongst the Patent Rolls of Henry III., dated 1238, occurs one
entitled "de forgeis levandis in Foresta de Dean."

{235}  At all times obligingly permitted to the Author by Mr. John
Atkinson, the Queen's Gaveller.

{264}  This large Oak is called "Jack of the Yat."  Yat means gate here.
It is probably 500 years old.  It was struck by lightning a few years
since.

{265a}  In Sallow Vallets, a quarter of a mile below the Lodge; 90 yards
round the outside of the branches.

{265b}  This tree about eight feet from the ground separates into two
large branches, or rather distinct trees; the rent or chasm in the trunk
grows wider, and we have now (_i.e._ in 1847) fastened the limbs together
with iron to prevent its breaking into two parts.



***