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  FARM GARDENING
  WITH HINTS ON
  CHEAP MANURING

  Quick Cash Crops and How to
  Grow Them

  Compiled and Published, 1898
  by
  JOHNSON & STOKES, Seed Growers and Merchants
  217 and 219 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa.

  Copyright, 1898, by Johnson & Stokes

[Illustration: Hilling Celery, as practised by Philadelphia Market
Gardeners.]




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.                                             PAGE.
  Making the Soil Rich                                       9

  CHAPTER II.
  Choice of Location                                        24

  CHAPTER III.
  Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture Everywhere              27

  CHAPTER IV.
  Vegetables Suited to Farm Culture in Some Locations       75

  CHAPTER V.
  Sashes and Bedding Plants                                119

  CHAPTER VI.
  The Strawberry                                           121




PREFACE.


Farmers in the thickly populated Eastern and Middle States, or, in
fact, east of the Mississippi River, cannot grow grains nor fatten
beeves with the same profit as before the opening of the great West.
Dairying still returns fair profits, but there is a widespread demand
for cash crops adapted to farm culture, especially where railroads
furnish quick access to towns and cities.

In response to this demand, we beg to offer a short list of farm
vegetables that can be grown with greater profit than grain, with
hints about growing them.

There is no real line dividing the vegetables of the market garden
from those of the farm garden, but it may be assumed in a somewhat
arbitrary way that those which do not yield at the gross rate of $250
per acre per year will not pay for the intense culture of high-priced
land, although they will pay handsome profits in broad-acred
operations under horse culture.

Before offering a list of money crops to farmers we shall have a word to
say in the following pages about economic manuring. Larger cash receipts
and smaller cash expenditures will result in better bank balances.

                                                   JOHNSON & STOKES.

    PHILADELPHIA, January 1, 1898.




CHAPTER I.

MAKING THE SOIL RICH.


Everybody understands that the soil becomes impoverished by continued
cropping, if no return be made in the form of manure or fertilizer.
This impoverishment is sometimes real, while sometimes it is more
apparent than real, owing to the exhaustion of only one or two
elements of fertility.

Farmers have learned a great deal about agricultural chemistry since
the introduction of artificial fertilizers. They know that while
plants demand many things for their growth, there are but three
elements which are in danger of being exhausted in ordinary cropping.
These three things are nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash.

=Lime.=--Lime is used on the land not for its direct results as a
fertilizer, but because it has the ability to break up combinations
already existing in the soil and set free the plant food that
previously was in an insoluble form. Lime sometimes produces almost
marvelous results; at other times no visible effects whatever. Hence,
it is not a fertilizer, though in actual practice it is sometimes a
fertilizing agent of great value. Land that has been much manured or
long in sod is likely to be benefited by lime.

Artificial manures, on the other hand, furnish real plant food in
soluble form, and may be expected to produce crops invariably, year
after year, if the soil be sufficiently moist. When a fertilizer
contains nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash it is said to be
complete. When any element is missing the fertilizer is said to be
incomplete. Ground bone, wood ashes, South Carolina rock, kainit,
etc., are examples of incomplete fertilizers.

=Barnyard Manure.=--Barnyard manure is the best of all known
fertilizers. Not only is it complete in character, but it has the
highly valuable property of bulk. It is rich in humus or humus-forming
materials. It opens and ventilates the soil, and improves its
mechanical condition to a remarkable degree. Humus is a name for
decaying organic matter.

American market gardeners deem it entirely safe to use fifty to
seventy-five tons of barnyard manure to the acre of ground in their
intensive cultural operations. American farmers seldom apply more than
ten or fifteen tons of such manure to the acre in the open field.

The manufacture of artificial fertilizers had its origin in the fact
that cultivators could not get enough manure from natural sources,
and, hence, were compelled to go into the market and buy nitrogen,
phosphoric acid and potash in other forms.

=Closer Economy.=--With the increase of competition and consequent
fall of prices a closer economy in cost of production is necessary.
Prices have fallen most in respect to commodities that will bear
long-distance freight transit and less in respect to the more
perishable products of the soil. Hence, farmers have widely turned
attention to small fruits and vegetables for money crops, instead of
grains, and are now studying how to fertilize these crops in the most
effective and economical manner.

It is very evident that while great quantities of fertility are
demanded by the new crops, there is no such margin of profit in their
culture as to warrant wasteful methods, and no losses of home-produced
fertility can be tolerated.

=As to Saving Manure.=--A penny saved is a penny earned. A half ton of
manure saved is a dollar earned; and, conversely, a half ton of manure
wasted is a dollar wasted.

In many American barnyards much of the manure is lost, partly by
leaching and partly by escape of ammonia. It is estimated that as much
as a third of the natural manure produced in this country is
practically thrown away.

The Cornell Station has announced that a pile of horse manure exposed
to the weather will lose half of its value in six months. The Kansas
Station reaches nearly the same conclusion about farmyard manure.

Manure stored under cover may lose from 14 to 30 per cent. of its
nitrogen (ammonia); and as this element is the most expensive of all
to buy, it is evident that the loss is a very serious one, and one
that should be avoided if possible.

=General Principles of Storage.=--Having pointed out the fact that on
many farms there is a loss of a large amount of excellent manure, it
is now in order to name a remedy. The compass of this book is so
limited that it is necessary to go straight to the point, omitting a
detailed account of the chemical processes involved.

The best-known method of keeping all the manure produced by farm
animals is storage under a closed shed, supplemented with chemical
preservatives. The shed need not cover the barnyard, but merely the
manure pile. The preservatives cost little money, and eventually go to
the soil in the form of excellent fertilizers. Not a cent paid for
them need be lost.

The manure shed should be large enough to work in with comfort; large
enough to permit the heap or heaps of manure to be turned, worked over
and shifted from place to place. A clay or earth floor will answer
every purpose, and the shed may be of the cheapest character, provided
it will turn the rain. The floor of the manure shed should <DW72>
inward from all directions, and the drainage around the shed should be
outward, so that no rain-water or snow-water can enter.

In theory, it may be best to put fresh manure on the land as quickly
as possible. All leaching is then received by the soil, and little is
lost, except through the air.

In practice, this plan is not always a good one. It costs more to make
ten trips to the field than one trip, and valuable time is wasted. It
is quite out of the question to haul out manure every day or even
every week. Besides, it is necessary in actual practice, especially in
gardening or truck farming, to cover a whole piece of ground at one
time, so that it may be plowed and seeded for the coming crop. The
ground is usually available only a short time before this preparation,
having, perhaps, been occupied by something else. It is desirable,
moreover, that the manure when applied shall be ready for immediate
service as plant food, which is not the case with the raw product.
Fresh manure is but sparingly digestible by plant roots. Quicker cash
results will be secured by applying prepared manure to the soil than
by applying the product fresh from the stable.

The manure shed has already been mentioned. A few dollars will build
it. Sometimes a half barrel is sunken in the centre of the manure
shed, and the drainage from the manure heaps collected there, and
returned to the tops of the heaps. It is occasionally necessary to add
water, when turning manure, to secure the desired degree of dampness
and a gentle fermentation. This fermentation will cause the litter to
fall to pieces, and will convert it into quickly-available plant food.

No one who has never tried it will expect the generous heaps which
will follow systematic and persevering efforts to accumulate and stack
up the available manure materials on any farm.

=Preservatives.=--The best-known common preservatives of manure in
storage are gypsum, kainit and acid phosphate.

Gypsum or land plaster holds ammonia, and is thus of the highest value
as a preservative. Gypsum must be moist to be effective, and, hence,
should be used regularly upon the fresh manure.

Kainit, which is a low-grade sulphate of potash, checks fermentation,
and hence prevents loss of ammonia. It contains much salt, and attracts
and holds moisture. It should not be used under the feet of animals.

Acid phosphate contains much gypsum, and unites with ammonia that
would otherwise escape.

The Geneva (N. Y.) Station recommends the use of one of the following
per day:

                    Per Horse. Per Cow. Per Pig. Per Sheep.
                     Pounds.   Pounds.   Ounces.  Ounces.
    Gypsum            1-1/2     1-3/4    4-1/2     3-1/2
    Acid phosphate    1         1-1/8    3         2-1/2
    Kainit            1-1/8     1-1/4    4         3-1/4

The advantage of using kainit and acid phosphate are that they add
potash and phosphoric acid respectively, in which barnyard manure is
likely to be deficient. In some soils the potash will be preferable;
in others, phosphoric acid will do more good.

=Value of Manure of Each Kind of Animal.=--It has been figured out
that the average value of horse manure per year is $27 per animal;
cattle, $19; hogs, $12; and sheep, $2. But these are not the only
sources of manure on the farm. The hen-house will annually yield
manure to the value of 25 to 50 cents per fowl, if intelligently cared
for. The outhouse will produce fertility to the amount of $10 to $50
per year, according to the size of the family, the precautions as to
loss by leaching, and the care given. The kitchen slops, including the
scraps, are worth $10 to $25 per year, if properly composted. The wood
ashes have a distinct and high fertilizing value; but not in the
hen-house, where they are worse than wasted. And even coal ashes can
be turned to account.

Professor Roberts has suggested $250 per year as a conservative
estimate of the value of the manure produced during seven winter
months on a farm carrying four horses, twenty cows, fifty sheep and
ten pigs. The estimated value may be made much higher in cases where
farmers are willing to use thought and labor in preparation and
preservation of home-made manures.

=Solid Manure and Liquid Manure.=--The urine is the most valuable
portion of the excretion of animals, according to the tables of the
agricultural chemists. It is especially rich in nitrogen, and, hence,
its strong odor under fermentation. It is also rich in potash. Its
place is on the manure heap, not in a ditch leading to a brook. If it
collects in quantities beyond the absorbing power of the manure pile,
it should go on the compost heap or else be diluted and at once put
upon the land.

=When to Fertilize.=--The land is a good bank in which to deposit
money in the form of manure; but there are certain portions of the
year when the land bank declares no dividends. It is safe to put
manure upon an unfrozen soil at any time, but the best, the quickest,
and the largest results are obtained by manuring during the growing
season, preferably just before planting the crop. Small applications,
often repeated, are preferable to large, though rare, applications.
Plants, like animals, consume small amounts of food each day, and
cannot take a year's food at a single meal.

=Humus.=--Humus, often referred to by agricultural writers, is a name
for decaying organic matter in the soil. Green crops turned under,
grass roots, stubble, leaves, long manure, etc., form humus. The term
is a comprehensive one. Humus is a dark- substance, abundant in
all rich ground. A lump of manure that has been lying in the ground
for a year or two has become, practically, a mass of humus.

=Minute Soil Workers.=--In all good soils there are myriads of small
organisms, whose duty is to destroy organic matter and convert it into
soil, or into humus, or into plant food.

This explains the superiority of good, moist soil as compared to coal
ashes for making compost heaps. Coal ashes are worth sifting, if the
work can be done automatically; that is, by simply pouring the ashes
upon a sloping wire screen. The coarse portion of the ashes, if not
worth reburning, will at least make good walks, drives or road beds,
while the fine portions make excellent absorbents to put under hen
roosts.

[Illustration: Some of the many Forms of Bacteria. (Magnified).]

Hen manure and the product of the outhouse, whether containing sifted
ashes or not, should go speedily into a heap of moist earth, for this
earth will furnish the organisms to quickly convert the excreta into
valuable soil. Sifted coal ashes usually contain some fertility on
account of wood, garbage, etc., burned in the kitchen stove, but have
value mainly as absorbents. Moist loam, on the other hand, teems with
life, and has the wonderful ability not merely to hide organic matter,
but to actually change its character, converting it into soil that
retains none of its original characteristics. What was malodorous
manure, offensive to smell and touch, is changed into an odorless,
dark- material that leaves no stain upon the hands, and which
is plant food of the best and most available character.

=Economy in Manuring.=--True economy in manuring demands a
comprehension of these simple matters. The methods are inexpensive,
and are within the reach of every tiller of the soil.

The whole matter may be summed up in a few words, as follows: Waste
nothing, permit no fermentation or leaching, use preservatives, and
learn the true art of making composts, including the functions of the
minute organisms just described.

No better use can be made of rainy days in summer or winter than in
caring for manure; turning the piles, making compact stacks, adding
needed moisture and preservatives, shaking out all lumps and putting
undecayed portions into the centre of the heap.

Ton after ton of the best kind of fertilizer can be accumulated on
every farm in this manner, including not only what is now lost through
careless handling, but also a large amount of good material that is
now entirely overlooked on many farms. All rubbish, all litter, all
dirt, has a fertilizing value. If certain waste products must go to
the bonfire, the ashes can at least be saved and used during the next
growing season. It is sometimes better to burn weeds and certain tough
vines than to attempt to compost them; but the ashes should not be
wasted. It is the saving of many little things that counts in the
yearly total. Labor is money, but it is better to invest labor at home
than to go to the fertilizer-maker for supplies and pay out cash.

=The Fertilizer Man.=--The fertilizer man will always be with us,
because he has a true place in the economy of the farm and garden. We
must go to him for the preservatives already mentioned--for gypsum,
for kainit and for acid phosphate; and also for complete fertilizers.
These articles are all comparatively cheap. The fertilizer man can
make but modest profits upon them. The purchase of high-grade goods
from well-known and honest makers is to be commended, for it is
strictly economical.

The thing to be avoided is the blind buying of fertilizers from
unknown or irresponsible makers or agents. This is worse than buying a
cat in a bag, and results in great waste of good money.

=Wood Ashes.=--Wood ashes is rich in potash, and is particularly
valuable with potatoes, fruits of all kinds, etc. But it is a great
error to mix wood ashes with fresh manure of any kind, especially with
hen manure, as the escape of ammonia is hastened and much value is lost.

=Natural and Artificial Manures.=--Where the home supply of manure is
insufficient for a piece of ground, necessitating the addition of
artificial manure, it is universally conceded to be good practice to
stretch the natural product over the whole tract and then to go over
the whole tract with an artificial fertilizer.

=Irrigation.=[A]--In connection with a review of the home sources of
manure the item of irrigation must not be overlooked, for it is
thoroughly well established that water is a carrier of appreciable
amounts of fertilizing materials. In European countries large areas of
pasture and mowing lands are fertilized by water alone, the irrigation
being regarded as of great value on this account, aside from the fact
that it supplies moisture to the grass roots. Most streams in the
United States contain more or less sewage, and in respect to
irrigation are valuable on that account.

[Footnote A: The reader is referred to our new book on this subject.
It is entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods." See illustration
next page, also pages 83 and 125.--Johnson & Stokes.]

=Waste Products.=--Many waste or by-products, available for use as
fertilizers, come from time to time within the reach of the farmer or
gardener, especially to those living near towns or railroads.

The average market house, be it said with regret, is none too clean,
and refuse in considerable amounts could be had there for the trouble
of sweeping. Cattle cars often contain several inches of valuable
droppings, to be had for next to nothing. Street-scrapings are worth
the trouble of hauling, if the distance is short. The manure lost on
the highways is very great in amount, and may be worth the cost of
collection. There will some day be a machine for gathering this manure
from the roads by horse-power, as it would amply repay the expense of
driving such a machine along every much-used highway.

[Illustration: An Illustration from Johnson & Stokes' New
Book--"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods."]

=Value of Manure.=--Dr. Beal figures the values per ton of the several
farm-made manures as follows: Hen manure, $7.07; sheep, $3.30; pigs,
$3.29; horses, $2.21; cows, $2.02.

[Illustration: Bacteroid Tubercles on Red Clover Root. Drawn from
Nature.]

These figures are based on the assumption that the animals are well
fed, and that no leaching of the manure is allowed, with gypsum used
as a preservative, and good care exercised in all respects. It must
not be supposed that all manure has such value, or that any manure
will retain such value under careless treatment.

=Green Manuring.=--The system of green manuring, as formerly
understood and practiced, had two purposes in view. One was to supply
the soil with needed humus; the other to furnish winter protection and
prevent washing. The practice is a very old one and has much to
commend it. Not only do plant roots draw up fertility from
considerable depths, to be afterward deposited in the superficial soil
when the growing crop is turned down by the plow, but the process
favors chemical changes in the soil by the admission of air and
sunlight and by the decomposition of leaves, stems and roots. But
nothing whatever in the way of new fertility is added by turning down
a rye crop, for instance.

[Illustration: Crimson or Scarlet Clover, a Nitrogen Gatherer.]

=Cultivating the Legumes.=--The present system of green manuring
contemplates something in addition to what was formerly gained, for
agricultural sciences now recognizes the fact that nitrogen, the most
expensive element of fertility, can be taken from the air and added to
the plant food in the soil by means of certain plants which have the
peculiar habit of regularly forming little tubercles or lumps on their
feeding roots. These lumps are to be found on plants in perfect
health, and are not parasitical in any hostile sense. The lumps are
filled with small living organisms called bacteria, and, hence, have
been called bacteroid tubercles. The minute tenants slowly but surely
secrete nitrogen, and put it in a form adapted to plant growth.

The plants which bear these root lumps belong to a group called legumes,
of which clover, peas, beans, vetches, etc., are familiar examples.

Curiously enough, nearly all the leguminous plants are thus fitted by
nature by means of the root lumps to act as soil enrichers, and these
plants have, therefore, assumed the highest agricultural significance.

It is well known that such crops as cowpeas, crimson or scarlet
clover, common red and pea vine or sapling clover, Soja beans,
vetches, etc., can be used to add nitrogen to the soil in commercial
quantities. The gain of new material, expressed in money, has been
estimated as high as $25 per acre. This, therefore, is the avenue
through which the farmer can most economically supply nitrogen to his
land. If he will exercise all the economy heretofore suggested in the
care of natural manures, and will grow legumes, he will not have much
occasion to buy nitrogen in the market.

=Grass vs. Clover.=--An idea of the great fertilizing value of the
leguminous plants as compared with grasses may be obtained by a study
of the following analyses from U. S. Farmers' Bulletin No. 16, by Dr.
E. W. Allen, on "Leguminous Plants for Green Manuring and for Feeding":

                                    Fertilizing Value in Crop.
                        Assumed              Per Acre.
                         Yield.
                        Per Acre. Nitrogen. Phos. Acid. Potash.

        Hay from          Tons.    Pounds.    Pounds.   Pounds.
    Red top (a grass)       2       23.0        7.2      20.4
    Timothy (a grass)       2       25.2       10.6      18.0
    Red Clover (a legume)   3       62.1       11.4      66.0
    Alfalfa (a legume)      3       65.7       15.3      50.4
    Cowpea (a legume)       3       58.5       15.6      44.1
    Soja bean (a legume)    3       69.6       20.1      32.4

=Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid, Potash.=--We have just noted the cheapest
source of nitrogen. It can be collected by root tubercles at less than
the commercial rate of 14 to 17 cents per pound.

Phosphoric acid can be best secured, if a new supply becomes
necessary, in the form of ground bone or in the form of acid
phosphate. Either of these articles, if bought from a reliable dealer,
is a good and economical thing to use.

Potash is to be had most cheaply, perhaps, in the manner suggested
heretofore: by the use of kainit as a preserver of stable manure. The
kainit performs a double purpose if used in that way, and thus gets
upon the land in a cheap manner.

Muriate of potash and sulphate of potash are high-priced articles, but
when bought from good houses are fully worth the money they cost.
Except for the use of kainit, just mentioned, the muriate or sulphate
would be the more economical form.

Potash or phosphoric acid (or both), as may be determined by
circumstances, are needed to aid crimson clover in its growth, and
with the clover form a perfect manure.

Barnyard manure is a perfect fertilizer, especially when preserved with
kainit or acid phosphate; and a leguminous crop, if stimulated with
phosphoric acid and potash, leaves the land in fine cropping condition.

=Value of Green Manures.=--The cash value of green manuring is
somewhat a matter of location. On light, sandy soils it will be found
wise to turn the whole crop under with the plow, while on heavy loams
this plan is of doubtful benefit. On the latter land it is conceded to
be better practice to harvest the crop and feed it to stock, and
return the resulting manure to the land.

=Maximum Amounts of Manures.=--Nobody has yet ventured to fix the
maximum amounts of natural or artificial manures that soils will bear,
but these amounts are great. Reference has already been made to the
number of tons of stable manure per acre used respectively by market
gardeners and farmers in America. As to commercial fertilizers, the
quantity has been pushed up to two tons per acre, with enormous crops in
consequence, and with no bad results where the constituent of the
fertilizer were well balanced and where the water-supply was ample. It
is quite easy, however, to scorch or burn the foliage of growing plants
by the improper use of acid fertilizers in dry weather. Of course, no
such amount as two tons per acre would be used in ordinary farming or
farm gardening, but only in certain intense cultural operations.




CHAPTER II.

CHOICE OF LOCATION.


Almost every farm has a choice spot for a garden, some favored
location where the soil is warm and mellow, and where, perhaps,
shelter is afforded by hill or woodland. Such a spot, especially if it
can be artificially irrigated, is capable of great things in the way
of growing truck.

The place of all others, if it can be had, is a rich meadow bank, on
ground low enough for gravity irrigation and yet high enough to be out
of the way of floods. Such a location is by no means rare. There are
countless acres fulfilling these conditions, and every acre thus
situated is capable of yielding in vegetables twenty-fold its value as
pasturage.

Such a meadow needs a few lines of underdrains and an irrigating ditch
along the highest feasible level. Deep plowing of low land will rarely
bring up the sub-soil, and, after a good coat of lime, the application
of manure may be carried to almost any extent, with good results
assured in advance.

If a meadow is not available, the farm gardener will do the next best
thing, whatever that may be, in choosing a place for vegetables,
trusting the rainfall and depending on manure and good tillage for
satisfactory crops.

=As to Growing.=--The one point to be emphasized about the production
of truck for market is that quick growth is necessary for quality,
and, hence, for profits. Good soil, good cultivation and sufficient
moisture are the essentials for rapid growth.

=As to Marketing.=--A point of prime importance for all producers to
remember is that price is largely a matter of taste and fancy. If the
consumer can be attracted by the good appearance of vegetables or fruit,
a sale is certain to be made. It will pay handsomely to keep at home all
medium or second-quality stuff, offering nothing but the best for sale.

[Illustration: Reproduction of a Photograph taken in Dock Street
Wholesale Market, Philadelphia.]

In the great wholesale and retail markets of Philadelphia, New York
and Boston good stuff always moves quickly at fair prices, while poor
stuff begs for buyers at rates yielding no profit to anybody. The
wholesaler is frequently blamed for failure to obtain good prices when
the fault is really with the producer, and is chargeable to poor stuff
or poor packing.

There is a good business opening everywhere for truckers who will ship
only first-class stuff in new packages. Such produce reaches what is
known as the fancy trade, and there is more than a living in it for
enterprising growers.

Truckers who rush their stuff to market in an unwashed, unsorted
condition, in old or unclean baskets or boxes, may make expenses out
of the business, but they will never do much more. There is a premium
on quality and appearance.




CHAPTER III.

VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE EVERYWHERE.


[Illustration: Loading the Market Wagon.]

In this chapter are grouped a number of vegetables of easy culture. They
may be grown with success almost anywhere. Some of them are produced by
market gardeners, but by reason of the amount of ground which they
occupy they are more particularly adapted to horse culture by farmers.

The chapter will treat briefly of asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage,
carrots, sweet corn, horseradish, parsnip, potato, pumpkin and squash,
salsify, tomato, turnip, etc.


ASPARAGUS.

Asparagus demands a deep, rich, well-drained soil. Its culture is
profitable, and it yields ready cash at an early season of the year,
when other sales are limited. The cutting term covers six weeks,
beginning (at Philadelphia) in the middle or latter part of April.
Cutting must here cease in June, in order to give the roots ample time
to regain strength and make vigorous tops. The gross product per acre,
near Philadelphia, expressed in money, is, perhaps, $200 at this time.

[Illustration: Donald's Elmira.]

In selecting a situation for a bed, a warm spot should be chosen,
having a deep and mellow soil, and with good natural or artificial
drainage. A small area is better than a large one, as being more
likely to receive sufficient manure; and it is desirable that the land
should have been tilled for a year or two before the planting of the
roots, and a heavy coat of manure incorporated with the soil--the more
manure the better.

=Roots.=--The roots are set in early spring, in deep trenches, 5 or 6
feet apart, made with a plow. If the plow be run both ways and the
loose dirt shovelled out, it is quite easy to reach a depth of 15 or
more inches. It is not material whether strong one-year-old roots or
two-year-old roots be used.

=Varieties.=--As to varieties, it is almost as much a matter of
culture as of name; still, there are better and worse kinds. Asparagus
varies in color from purple to green, and even to white. There are
certain so-called mammoth sorts, whose shoots are larger, but less
numerous than the old-fashioned kinds. There is a slight difference in
flavor, also, but the preference of the local market must determine
the farmer in making a choice of roots. If a green "grass" be
preferred, that kind can be had from seedsmen; but, no matter how
carefully the roots may be grown, there will be some slight variations
in the color of the shoots, for asparagus does not always come true
from seed. Market gardeners usually sort their asparagus shoots at
bunching time; always for size, and sometimes for color, especially
when supplying a fancy trade.

As a rule, it is wise to select a variety that will produce a good
number of large-sized shoots, such as Donald's Elmira or Barr's Mammoth,
and trust to manure and culture for the best results. Quality of shoots
depends on quick growth, and size depends somewhat on distance of the
root under ground. The deeper the asparagus root under the surface, the
larger in diameter will be the shoot, provided the plants are not
crowded; a fact of which gardeners often take advantage by heaping soil
up over the crowns of the plants during the growing season.

     ASPARAGUS.--Donald's Elmira is one of the best for the North.
     Palmetto is the asparagus generally grown in the South. For
     descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Setting out.=--The young roots should be set carefully, crowns up, at
intervals of 1-1/2 to 2 feet, in the deep furrows or trenches
heretofore mentioned. A few inches of manure can be put in the bottom,
covering slightly with soil and about 6 inches of soil put upon them.
The spaces between the rows may be cultivated during the first year,
and some quick crop grown there. The working of this crop will
gradually fill up the furrows about the stems of the young asparagus,
which, during the first year, is quite small and insignificant in
appearance. By fall, the furrows will be entirely filled and the
surface of the patch level. The asparagus slug, the larva of the
well-known beetle, may be kept down by occasionally dusting with
slacked lime containing Paris green. The following year the asparagus
will show up to some advantage, but should not be cut. The third year
(second after planting) will yield some marketable shoots; but cutting
should not continue more than two or three weeks. The fourth year the
bed may be said to be in full bearing.

=Treatment.=--The spring treatment of an asparagus bed in profit
begins with a light plowing parallel with the rows, great care being
observed to use a wheel on the plow so that not more than a few inches
of soil may be turned, lest the crowns be cut and injured. The bed
then lies until the cutting season is well advanced, when the plow may
be again used.

The first plowing was merely to break the surface of the ground and
turn under the winter coat of manure, leaving the land level. The
second plowing (if given) is to be toward the rows, for the purpose of
throwing them further under the surface, so as to get larger shoots as
warm weather advances.

Another plowing, very shallow, followed by harrow or cultivator,
should be given at the end of the cutting season, in June, to destroy
all weeds and to encourage summer growth of the asparagus.

The patch should be kept clear of weeds during the summer, and growth
encouraged by cultivation. In the late autumn the tops are mowed off and
burned, as there seems to be no economic way of composting them, for, if
moved to the compost heap or barnyard, they will seed the whole farm
with asparagus. There should be a good coat of manure for winter
protection, to be turned under in early spring, as already mentioned.

=Marketing.=--The preparation of the crop for market involves some
time and trouble. The shoots are cut every day. Some growers do the
work early in the morning, and carry the bunches to market the same
day. Others cut and bunch one day, put in water over night and carry
to market the following day. Circumstances must decide which is best.

[Illustration: Acme Asparagus Buncher, with Knife Guard.]

If asparagus is to be shipped long distances, it must either be packed
in open crates (like strawberry crates), or else thoroughly chilled
by ice before starting. Otherwise, it will heat and spoil. The usual
asparagus bunch is just about the size of a dry-measure quart in
diameter, and from 6 to 9 inches in length. In fact, a quart cup or
tin fruit can is frequently used in shaping the bunch. Home-made
wooden bunchers are also in common use. The Acme asparagus buncher is
the best, coming in two sizes. The asparagus is tied in two places
with raphia or soft string, and thus makes a neat and attractive
package. The butts are cut off square with a knife after the bunch is
finished, and in this shape asparagus will remain fresh for a long
time, if kept standing in shallow water.

In tying up the bunches the shoots are separated into two or three
sizes. The small shoots are quite as good for food as the larger ones,
but the latter always bring more money in market, which warrants the
additional trouble involved.

=Salt.=--Salt is frequently used on asparagus beds, but not always.
Salt is sometimes an indirect fertilizer, acting upon fertility
already in the soil, and having a distinct tendency to attract and
hold moisture, but it has no direct fertilizing influence. It has a
beneficial effect in helping to check the growth of weeds.

=Fertilizers.=--Kainit is an excellent thing for asparagus beds, as
it contains a considerable percentage of sulphate of potash, which is
a direct fertilizer. It also contains a fourth of its bulk of salt.
Ground bone, which contains nitrogen (ammonia) and phosphoric acid, is
also a good thing to use on asparagus. It is very lasting in its
action, and with the kainit makes a complete manure, especially in
connection with the winter coat of stable manure.

Asparagus is a gross feeder, and will take almost any amount of
fertilizer. Market gardeners, who raise the most and best asparagus,
depend mainly on enormous quantities of first-class stable manure; and
this is probably the best fertilizer of all for this succulent and
valuable vegetable.

=Tools.=--No special tools are demanded in asparagus culture, though
such tools are on the market. Any long knife will do for cutting the
shoots, although a very good knife is especially made of solid steel,
and can be bought for 25 cents. The cut should be made just below the
surface of the ground, care being taken not to injure other shoots just
coming up. Crooked shoots often make their appearance, resulting from
injury done by the cutting knife. Other causes, such as insects, hard
soil, etc., produce crooked or deformed shoots. Asparagus bunchers, made
of wood and metal, mentioned in the seed catalogues, are sometimes used,
the Acme, heretofore referred to, being the best and cheapest.

[Illustration: Solid Steel Asparagus Knife.]

Any light plow with a wheel will answer for the asparagus bed. A
light-weight harrow is also desirable. Where asparagus trenches are
laid out and dug by hand of course a garden line must be used, in
order to have them straight and uniform. The practice of digging deep
trenches for asparagus still prevails to some extent in private
gardens, but the farm gardener must use cheaper methods.

=Roots per Acre.=--With rows 5 feet apart and plants 2 feet apart in the
rows, it is evident that each plant represents just 10 square feet of
space. Hence, about 5,000 asparagus plants would be required for an acre
of land set at these distances; they are, however, often set closer than
this, sometimes at the rate of 7,000 roots and over per acre. An
asparagus bed containing 100 roots will supply an ordinary family.


BEANS.

Bean-growing in a small way is fully warranted in every garden, but on
a large scale it is a different question, being somewhat a matter of
soil and location.

=Food Value.=--The bean is one of the most excellent of human foods.
Its botanical kinship is close to the pea, and both are legumes. The
leguminous plants, it will be remembered, have the rare ability of
obtaining nitrogen through the tubercles on their roots, taking this
expensive element partly from the air, and not greatly impoverishing
the soil by their growth.

Something of the food value of the bean may be learned by comparing
its chemical analysis with that of beef. In 100 pounds of beans there
are 23 pounds of protein (nitrogenous matter), while in 100 pounds of
beef there are but about 15 to 20 pounds of protein. Peas are almost
as rich as beans in protein, which is the tissue-building element of
all foods, and, hence, it is easy to realize the fact that both beans
and peas are foods of the highest economic value. They are standard
foods of the world, entering into the diet of soldiers, laborers and
persons needing physical strength.

It is generally safe to grow beans for the retail market of any town
or centre of population, but to compete in the open wholesale market
demands experience and good equipment on the part of the grower to
insure profits.

[Illustration: Improved Round Green Pod Extra Early Valentine Bean.]

=Varieties and Types.=--The varieties of beans are well-nigh endless.
Some demand poles, while some are dwarf, being called bush beans. The
influence of man has developed the bean into a vast number of different
forms, which frequently show a disposition to revert or go back to some
ancestral type, no matter how carefully the seeds may be kept.

The pole beans, in general terms, yield larger crops and bear through
a longer season than the bush beans. The green-podded beans, as a
rule, are more prolific and more hardy than the yellow-podded or wax
beans. The climbers demand a whole season, and bear until frost. The
bush beans are mostly employed where two or more crops are demanded
per year from the ground.

The so-called cut-short or snap-short beans are those in which the
whole pod, in its green state, is used for food. They are of both
types, climbing and bush. The Lima forms include a number of distinct
beans, differing greatly in size and shape and also in habit of growth.

     BUSH BEANS (green pod).--We recommend Improved Round Pod Extra
     Early Valentine; also, New Giant Stringless Valentine.

     BUSH BEANS (yellow pod).--Wardwell's Kidney Wax and Davis' White
     Wax are largely grown in the South for shipment North. Valentine
     Wax is recommended for the North. For descriptions, see "Johnson
     & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

     WHITE FIELD OR SOUP BEANS.--We recommend Day's Leafless Medium
     and New Snowflake Field. For descriptions of these and other
     varieties, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

     POLE LIMA BEANS.--We especially recommend Ford's Mammoth Podded
     Lima and Siebert's Early Lima.

     POLE SNAP BEANS.--Golden Andalusia Wax is one of the best
     yellow-pod pole beans, and Lazy Wife's one of the best green-pod
     sorts.

     DWARF LIMA.--Dreer's, Burpee's and Henderson's represent three
     distinct types.

     For full descriptions of beans, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and
     Farm Manual."

=Location.=--In choosing a spot for bean culture the farm gardener
should select good mellow soil that has been manured the previous
year. Fresh manure produces an excessive growth of vine at the expense
of pods.

=Making Ready.=--Much stable manure, which is rich in nitrogen, should
be avoided. In good ordinary soil, with some rotted manure from the
previous crop, the bean plant will do well. It will obtain nitrogen,
in great part, from the air, as already explained. Old manure is very
favorable as a starter, as it contains the minute organisms mentioned
in the preceding pages. Complete fertilizers or those containing
phosphoric acid and potash must be supplied. Only nitrogen is derived
from the air.

=Soil Inoculation.=--The soil of a new bean patch is sometimes
inoculated with soil from an old patch, to get quick action of the
bacteria (little organisms), which form the lumps or tubercles on the
roots. The scattering of a little soil over the surface is all that is
required.

Care should be taken to avoid the transfer of soil for this purpose
from a patch affected with rust or blight, as diseases are carried
from place to place with only too much ease.

=When to Plant.=--Beans may safely be planted when the apple is in
bloom, in May; not so early as peas, as beans are less hardy. The ground
should be dry and warm. Beans of all kinds demand shallow planting, as
the seeds must be lifted from the ground in the earliest process of
growth. The seed swells, bursts, sends a shoot (radicle) downward, and
the two parts of the seed, called the seed-leaves, are pushed up into
the daylight. Small round beans can take care of themselves, as they
turn easily in the soil, but lima beans often perish in the effort to
get above ground. This is why lima beans should always be planted eye
down, and less than an inch deep. A half inch is deep enough for most
beans. If lima beans are wanted extra early, they should be started on
small squares of inverted sod, under glass.

The earliest bush beans yield marketable pods within forty to fifty days
from planting; the pole beans in from seventy to ninety days from
planting. There should be successional plantings made of the bush beans
from the first date to within fifty days of frost. The different types
of beans are fully and carefully described in the seed catalogues.

=Distances.=--Poles for beans should be set about 4 feet apart each
way; or, in single rows, about 3 feet apart. Not more than three or
four plants should be allowed to a hill. Wires stretched between
posts, with strings down to the ground, are sometimes used. The bush
beans are planted in rows 3 feet apart for horse culture, or half that
distance where a hoe or hand cultivator is to be used. The plants in
the rows should stand 3 or 4 inches apart for best yield.

[Illustration: Plant of the New Valentine Wax Bean. The Earliest Wax
or Yellow Podded Snap Short.]

=On a Large Scale.=--In large field operations, where the dried bean
is the object in view, a clover sod is a favorite location. The ground
is enriched by 400 or 500 pounds of complete fertilizer, and the beans
are planted with a grain drill, using every fourth tube. The culture
is by horse-power, and the vines are pulled by hand or by means of a
bean-harvester, and threshed with a flail or grain thresher. These
white grocery beans are sold everywhere in large quantities.

=Cultivation.=--All bean cultivation should be shallow. Nothing is
gained by cutting the feeding roots. The climbing sorts twine "against
the sun;" that is, in a contrary direction to the apparent motion of
the sun. The shoots must be tied up several times, to keep them on
their own poles.

=Diseases.=--The worst bean enemies are rust and blight. In new soil,
with good weather, these troubles seldom appear. During prolonged wet
weather there seems to be no help for them. Spraying with Bordeaux
mixture is a preventive. The spraying should be done in advance of
blossoming. The seed is sometimes soaked in Bordeaux mixture for an
hour where rust is anticipated. Prevention is better than cure, and
new soil and fresh seed are the best precautions. Diseased vines
should be burned.

=Insects.=--The weevil which attacks the bean is closely allied to the
pea weevil. Some practical people say there is no remedy known; others
recommend heating the beans to 145 deg. for an hour; others use bisulphide
of carbon in a closed vessel, along with the beans.

=Profits.=--By far the largest cash receipts per acre are obtained by
selling beans in their fresh state; preferably in the pods. The
production of bush beans (pods) may run up to 75 or 80 bushels per acre,
or even more. Lima beans are more profitably sold in the pods than
shelled, though some markets demand the shelled article. The consumer
gets a fresher and better article in the pods, and the producer is
saved much trouble, and this method should be encouraged. Beans should
be cooled, if possible, before shipment in bulk to distant markets, thus
avoiding danger from heating, moulding and spotting.


BEETS.

Beets are produced in enormous quantities by market gardeners near all
large cities, both under glass and in the open ground. They also have
a place in the farm garden, as they are of easy culture.

[Illustration: Crosby's Improved Egyptian, the Earliest Blood Turnip
Beet.]

Excellence in the table beet depends partly on variety, but mainly on
the quickness of growth. Sweetness and succulence result from high
culture in rich, mellow soil.

Mangels and sugar beets, of course, have a place on every farm, for
stock-feeding purposes, and table beets may also be grown, if good soil
is available, for market purposes. The winter-keeping sorts are
frequently in demand, and may be included among the farmer's cash crops.

No amount of stable manure is excessive in beet-growing. Partially
rotted manure is best. For horse culture the rows should be 3 feet
apart. Five to six pounds of seed will plant an acre.

PLANTING.--Planting may be done as soon as the ground can be worked in
the spring, as the beet is hardy, and not injured by a little frost;
and successional plantings may be made until June. The June sowing
will produce autumn beets, which can be stored for winter use or sale.

It is well to soak the seed in tepid water before planting; it should
be scattered thinly in the rows and lightly covered. In dry weather
the soil must be pressed firmly on the seed, to insure sufficient
moisture for germination. The plants in the rows should be thinned out
to 3 or 4 inches.

It is very important to remember that the more space each plant has
about it the sooner will it reach a marketable size. Beet plants
standing 5 inches apart in the row will be ready long before plants
standing only 2 inches apart.

Beets vary in shape very considerably. Some are round and some are
long, with intermediate grades. The turnip-shaped beets are the
earliest, while the half-longs and longs are the heaviest. For market
purposes, if sold in bunches, the round ones are the most profitable.

[Illustration: Ford's Perfected Half-long Beet. The Best Winter Keeper.]

The color of the foliage varies greatly; but the color of the leaf is
not always typical of the root. Some of the blood beets have green
leaves. There are many shades and colors of the roots, from deepest
blood red to white, with zones of pink. The beet is an excellent and
highly esteemed article of food, and is always in demand.

     BEETS.--For earliest, we especially recommend Crosby's Improved
     Egyptian and Surprise; for winter, Ford's Perfected Half-Long.
     Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Marketing and Storing.=--A bunch contains five, six or seven beets,
with tops tied together and superfluous leaves cut off. The bunching
and topping may be done in the field, and the bunches afterward washed
in a tub of water, by means of a scrubbing brush. It always pays to
send roots to market in a clean and attractive condition.

Winter storage in cellars, under sand, is often practiced; or the beets
may be kept in pits in the open ground, covered with straw and earth.

=Enemies.=--The beet is remarkably free from enemies of any kind. The
root sometimes cracks, and is occasionally attacked by insects, but
the farmer or gardener has little to fear if soil be good and weather
be favorable. All farmers attending market should have a few beets to
help make up the weekly load for the wagon.


CABBAGE.

Early cabbage is not a farm gardener's crop at the North, though in
the Southern States the early varieties can be grown by farmers for
shipment to the great Northern markets. The Northern farmer, unless
provided with glass, usually finds more profit in the later and
larger sorts, which mature in autumn.

=Soil.=--Rich, loamy soil, containing much clay, is best for this
vegetable, which is a rank feeder. Large amounts of manure are
demanded. The manure is best applied in a partially rotted form, as
fresh manure of any kind (especially hog manure) is liable to produce
the disease or deformity known as club-root, the spores of the disease
apparently being in the fresh manure; though land too long cropped
with cabbage is likely to produce the same disease without the
application of fresh manure of any kind.

[Illustration: Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage.]

=Seed.=--It is of especial importance that good seed be planted, as
cabbage varies so much and shows such a disposition to go back to
undesirable types that great dissatisfaction and loss attend all
experiments with poorly-selected seed. The choice of seed not
infrequently determines the size and success of the crop. Expert
cabbage growers are well aware of this fact.

[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes 'Market Gardeners' No. 2, Valuable for
Early Summer or Winter Cabbage.]

=Planting.=--The manure should be broadcasted, and an ample amount
used, with a high-grade fertilizer in the row. The young plants,
previously started in a seed-bed, should (at the North) be set out in
July. The seed for late cabbage is planted in May. A quarter pound of
seed will give enough plants for an acre.

The rows should be 4 feet apart, and the plants 2-1/2 feet apart in
the rows. These distances favor good cultivation and quick growth. In
some parts of New England the seed is sown in the open field, in rows
where the cabbage is to grow, but the practice of transplanting from
seedbeds is found most satisfactory.

The rainfall here usually insures a fair crop of cabbage, but any crop
which requires transplanting in midsummer is liable to delay or injury
in case of protracted dry weather. Hence, irrigation is desirable. At
the distances just recommended for planting (4 x 2-1/2 feet) there
would be 4,356 plants to the acre. In the case of such varieties as
Johnson & Stokes' Earliest and Jersey Wakefield cabbage, where the
number of plants per acre would be perhaps 10,000, the Michigan
Experiment Station obtained 5,000 more marketable heads per acre under
irrigation than where water was not used upon the growing crop. (This
fact is mentioned in a book on irrigation just issued by the
publishers of this book).

=Varieties.=--The earliest varieties of cabbage have small, conical
heads; the midsummer sorts mostly round heads; and the late or
drumhead sorts have large, flat heads. There are cabbages which never
head; as, for instance, the collards of the South; and there are
varieties of crinkled-leaf cabbages, known as the Savoy types. The
kales are closely related to the cabbages. Both cabbages and kales
have purple- forms, sometimes called red forms.

     CABBAGE.--For early varieties for the South, we recommend Johnson
     & Stokes' Earliest, Early Jersey Wakefield and Charleston
     Wakefield; for both early and late in the North, Johnson &
     Stokes' Market Gardeners' No. 2, Louderback's All the Year Round;
     for late varieties for the North, New Rock Head Winter, Johnson &
     Stokes' Matchless Flat Dutch, Danish Ball Head. The Johnson &
     Stokes' Hard Heading Savoy Cabbage is of rare excellence. For
     descriptions of the many varieties of cabbage, please see
     "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Cultivation.=--Thorough horse cultivation between the rows should be
supplemented by a hand-hoe between the plants in the rows. The
cultivation must be good and continuous until the heads begin to form.

=Diseases and Insects Enemies.=--Club root has been mentioned. It is a
fungous trouble. The best remedy is new ground. The black flea on very
young plants can be conquered with air-slacked lime or wood ashes. The
cut worm is troublesome only in spring; not with late cabbage. The
root maggot is sometimes very destructive, both with cabbage and
cauliflower. New ground is the most satisfactory remedy. Green aphides
or lice often follow lack of strength in the cabbage. Pyrethrum
powder, air-slacked lime, kerosene emulsion, etc., are used as
remedies for lice. The pyrethrum may be used dry or in water, at the
rate of a tablespoonful to two gallons. The green cabbage worm, one of
the worst of all enemies, can be pretty effectually checked by means
of air-slaked lime dusted over the leaves. Other caterpillars yield to
the same treatment.

=Bursting.=--Bursting of cabbage heads is caused by a second growth,
the result, perhaps, of continued wet weather, or warm weather
following cold weather. The best remedy is to cut part of the feeding
roots, either by close cultivation or with a hoe.

=Selling.=--Cabbage prices vary between extremes that are far
separated. Early cabbage usually sells at a good profit. Summer and
autumn prices may be low. Winter and spring prices are almost always
fair, and occasionally extra. Pennsylvania farmers sometimes ship to
wholesalers in the cities and sometimes sell at public sale in the
open field, in the autumn, just as the crop stands. The latter plan is
an excellent one, where auction prices warrant it. It avoids the cost
and risk of storage, as each buyer removes and stores his purchase.

=Storage.=--Cabbage will bear much freezing without injury. The art of
winter storage is to put it where it will have the fewest changes of
temperature, and where it will be cool and damp without being wet.

The most common practice is to cover two or three rows of inverted
heads, with roots attached, with from 6 to 12 inches of soil, making
provision for good drainage by ditches on both sides of the
wedge-shaped heap.

[Illustration: Cutting Johnson & Stokes' Earliest Cabbage for Market.
Photographed June 1st, in the Field of Messrs. Myers & Bowman, the
well-known Philadelphia Market Gardeners. This was the first
Home-grown Cabbage in Philadelphia Markets.]

This system may be modified so as to include six or more rows of
inverted cabbage, the heap being flat instead of wedge-shaped on top.
It does not turn water so well, but in practice is usually
satisfactory. A good plan is to use about 6 inches of soil, and to add
straw or litter as the cold increases.

Under a steady low temperature it is no trouble to keep cabbage
through the winter, but it is hard to provide against the many changes
of our variable climate.

[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Matchless Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.]

Where heads are to be carried over for seed, or where it is intended
to head up soft cabbages during the winter (a feasible thing) the
roots are set downward instead of upward. If care be taken to remove
the roots without much injury, they may be set in furrows or trenches,
and the earth heaped over the cabbages just as in the several ways
above mentioned, and they will make decided growth during their life
under ground. In fact, a cabbage with any sort of immature head in
November will, under proper management, be in good marketable
condition in March or April.

Solid freezing in the trenches is not necessarily destructive, but if
the temperature falls much below 15 deg. (at the point occupied by the
heads), there is danger that they will perish. They may be in good
edible condition after such severe freezing, but the chances are that
they will fail to grow if set out for seed. The cabbage decays with a
strong, offensive smell when its tissues finally break down after
repeated changes of temperature and moisture. A uniform temperature is
favored by the use of earth in storage, and though storage in
buildings and cellars is quite feasible, there is nothing better or
cheaper than the soil of the open field.

If the crop is not all to be marketed at one time, it is well to make
a number of separate trenches, so that each can be wholly cleared of
its contents at a single opening. These trenches and ridges must be
made upon dry ground, where there is no standing water.

=For Stock.=--Cabbages make good food for cows, but should be fed
after milking; and frozen cabbages should never be fed in any
considerable quantity, as they are liable to cause hoven or bloat.


CARROTS.

A sandy soil or light loam is best for carrots, but they will grow
anywhere under good culture. Enormous quantities are grown by the
market gardeners, both under glass and in the open ground, for use in
soups and for seasoning purposes. The short or half-long varieties are
demanded by this trade.

[Illustration: Average Specimens of Rubicon Half-Long Carrots.]

Farm gardeners will do best with half-long and long kinds, unless a
special demand calls for the smaller carrots. The large half-long and
long ones are suited to both culinary and stock-feeding purposes.

It requires from three to four pounds of seed to the acre, depending
on the distance between the rows. The plants should be from 3 to 5
inches apart in the rows, and the rows as near together as is feasible
for horse work. Clean culture is demanded. The seed must be planted
shallow, and may go into the ground as early as it can be worked in
the spring, and from that time until the middle of June. The only
danger about late planting is the possibility of dry weather.

The carrot is quite free from insect or other enemies, as a rule, and
its culture is not difficult. It demands thinning and hoeing after the
plants are well above ground, but no extra attention of any kind.

The winter storage is the same as for beets or turnips, either to be
put away in earth-covered heaps or preserved in a cool, non-freezing
root cellar.

The so-called Belgian carrots (both yellow and white) are used only as
stock food; though the other sorts, such as Rubicon, Danvers and Long
Orange, if in excess of market demands, are equally good for stock. Cows
and horses are fond of them, and they are most wholesome. The farm
gardener should raise them, however, for their cash value in the produce
markets. The carrot is in high favor with good cooks everywhere.

The carrot does not demand excessively rich ground; in fact, too much
manure tends to stimulate the growth of the top at the expense of the
root, and fresh manure makes the root rough.

The smaller carrots are bunched and sold like radishes or early beets.
The larger kinds are sold by measure--about 60 cents or more per
basket at this time (January, 1898). This is at the rate of $1.50 per
barrel, or about $300 per acre. The crop is a good one, if near a
market where carrots are demanded.

     CARROT.--We especially recommend Rubicon Half-Long for market or
     stock. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


SWEET CORN.

There is no money crop more available to the farm gardener than sweet
corn. It will grow anywhere, and the young ears are always in demand.
Any sod land plowed shallow will yield a crop of sweet corn. It is
easy in this latitude to have an unbroken succession of marketable
ears from July 1st to October 1st, or even somewhat earlier and later.

Shallow plowing and the use of a little fertilizer or compost in the
hills will put the ground in order. A complete fertilizer is best. A
compost containing hen manure is excellent.

=Planting.=--Eight or ten quarts of seed are required to plant an acre
of corn in hills, allowing for replanting of what is injured by grubs or
other causes. The larger varieties should be planted 4 feet by 3; the
rows 4 feet apart and the hills 3 feet apart, with not more than three
stalks in a hill. The smaller varieties may be grown much closer--3 feet
by 2. Any method may be used in laying out a corn field that will give
each stalk (of the large kinds) the equivalent of 4 square feet of
ground space. The dwarf sweet corns demand about half that space.

=Varieties.=--The sweet corns require from sixty to eighty days to
produce ears fit for boiling. The earliest varieties are small, and
are lacking in sweetness as compared to the best intermediate types.
Still, the early prices are so much better than midsummer prices, that
the early varieties will always be grown for market. Indeed, the best
profits of the business are from the extra early and extra late sales.

Sweet corn should not be grown by shippers who are distant more than
twenty-four hours from market, as the ears lose quality and flavor
soon after being pulled from the stalks. Forty-eight hours from market
is an extreme distance, but is feasible if the ears can be chilled in
a cold storage house previous to shipment; otherwise, they will heat
and spoil. Even when designed for a near-by market a load of sweet
corn ears may heat and spoil during a single night. It is best to
scatter them upon the grass, if pulled during the afternoon for
shipment the following morning.

The most profit to the grower will be found in ears which are not too
large, as corn is often sold by the dozen, the large sorts being too
weighty.

The early kinds, though small, can be planted closely, and a large
number of ears secured; and they are out of the way so soon that the
ground can be used for celery or other late crop. Celery can be set
out between the rows of corn, and thus be shaded to some extent during
the critical period following transplanting.

The Evergreens, Early and Late, and the shoe-peg types, such as
Country Gentleman and Zig Zag Evergreen, are among the sweetest of
all. The grains are of irregular shape and arrangement, and the
appearance of the ears is not altogether prepossessing. When once
known, however, they are in demand by consumers.

The red-cob corns should be cooked by dropping into boiling water. If
cooked slowly, the red color of the cob affects the appearance of the
grains.

     SWEET CORN.--For first early, we recommend Burlington Hybrid and
     Mammoth White Cory. The former closely resembles a true sugar
     corn in appearance. For second early, Early Champion and New
     Early Evergreen; for late, original Stowell's Evergreen, Country
     Gentleman, Zig Zag Evergreen. See "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and
     Farm Manual" for descriptions of varieties.

=Cultivation, Enemies, etc.=--Shallow culture, frequently repeated, is
demanded by sweet corn. The growth at first is timid and slow;
afterward, if well cultivated, the stalks grow with great rapidity and
vigor.

[Illustration: New Early Evergreen Sweet Corn.]

To make the most of the stalks, they should be cut as soon as possible
after the last ears have gone to market and fed to stock. Sweet corn
stalks when dry make excellent fodder.

The main enemies of corn are the cut worm, which is only troublesome in
spring; a fungus which attacks the ears and which is always most
prevalent on the small, early sorts; and a worm which cuts and injures
the grain while the corn is in milk. Crows sometimes pull up the seeds,
but can be disposed of by scattering a little yellow corn on the surface
of the ground around the edges of the field. As the crow destroys many
cut worms, it is better to feed him with corn than to shoot him.

The prevalence of fungus-troubled or smutty corn is probably a symptom
of weakness, the result of planting too early, or of too much wet
weather. All plants that are weak are liable to fungus attacks, and it
is the early corn that suffers most. This corn is often planted
before the ground is sufficiently warm, and there is a consequent
weakness of growth. Indian corn, at Philadelphia, should not be
planted before May 10th, and yet it is not uncommon to see gardeners
planting sweet corn two weeks earlier. They say they are "going to
risk it." The result may be a good crop of corn, or it may be a crop
of worms and fungus. Of course, the high price of the first corn in
market is the excuse for the unseasonable date of planting. But it is
not quite fair to blame the seed or the variety of corn for what is
partly the result of the gardener's impatience. All traces of smut on
corn stalks should be burned, and not allowed to be fed to cattle.

=The Corn Worm.=--Far more destructive and disastrous than smut is the
corn worm (Heliothis armiger). This is the cotton worm of the South,
there called boll worm. It is also sometimes called the tomato worm.
It is the larva of a day-flying moth.

The difficulty in dealing with it is that when in the corn ear it is
out of the reach of poisonous applications of any kind. Its
depredations are extensive, especially in early corn. It prefers corn
to all other foods, and cotton planters protect their crops by
planting early corn in the cotton fields and then destroying the corn
and the worms within the ears.

The best remedy at the North is to feed all wormy ears to pigs; and to
plow the corn land in autumn, when the insects are in the pupa or
chrysalis state. If turned up by the plow, it is believed that they
mostly perish. The worms are said to be cannibals, eating each other
to a great extent.

This worm is, perhaps, the greatest enemy with which the grower of
sweet corn has to contend. The plan of feeding wormy ears to pigs
offers the double advantage of destroying the enclosed pests, while at
the same time fattening the pigs.

=Successional Planting.=--The skillful farmer will arrange
successional plantings of corn, beginning (at Philadelphia) May 10th
and ending about July 10th. The first and last plantings should be of
the early sorts; the intermediate plantings of the full-sized varieties.

=Profits.=--Profits depend on location. The size of the crop should
approximate 1,000 dozens of ears per acre, and the gross receipts should
be $100 to $200 per acre, more or less, above the value of the fodder.

=Suckering.=--Time is often spent in pulling the suckers from the stalks
of sweet corn. Such time is wasted. If the suckers are let alone they
will not reduce the number or quality of the marketable ears.


HORSERADISH.

Farmers who have soil that is both rich and deep can find profit in
growing horseradish on a large scale, in connection with early peas,
beans or sweet corn. The sets are planted in May, in the rows between
crops, and after the crops are removed the horseradish makes its main
growth. It is perfectly hardy, and comes on rapidly during the late
summer and autumn months. Where the ground is not strong enough to
produce large roots the first year, the business will not prove very
remunerative.

=The Sets.=--Horseradish sets are made by cutting small roots (1/4 to
1/2 inch in thickness) into pieces 6 or 8 inches long. The upper end is
cut square off; the lower end with a <DW72>. This is to get them right
end up at planting time. The small roots are available in quantities in
the autumn, when the large roots are trimmed for market. The sets are
kept in sand during the winter, or buried in the open ground, in a
carefully-marked spot, where they can be easily found in the spring.

If planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart, each plant will
represent 6 square feet of space, and, hence, about 7,300 sets will be
needed for an acre.

The method of planting is to strike out rows, and with a long dibber
or crowbar make holes 8 or 10 inches deep. A set is dropped into each
hole and the earth pressed about it.

[Illustration: Ideal Hollow Crown Parsnip.]

Shoots will soon appear above the surface, and when the early crop has
been removed from the land, the horseradish should be well cultivated
once or twice. Little further attention is needed.

The roots should be lifted the same year, in December, and stored in
an earth-covered heap or pit, or else in sand in a root cellar. The
small lateral roots should be saved for the next year's sets. There is
a good demand for horseradish, both wholesale and retail; but prices
should be ascertained before going into the business in a large way.

Good roots, after trimming and washing, should weigh half a pound or
more each.


PARSNIP.

The cultural requirements of the parsnip are quite similar to those of
the carrot. Any soil that is deep mellow and moderately rich may be
used for parsnips. Fresh manure is to be avoided, as it makes the
roots rough.

[Illustration: Mammoth Sandwich Island Salsify as Bunched for Market.]

The seed should be planted in early spring, while the ground is moist,
as it germinates very slowly. It should be covered to a depth of half
an inch, and the soil pressed down firmly. The plants must be thinned
out to stand 3 or 4 inches apart.

The parsnip is a vegetable of a perfectly hardy character. It may remain
in the ground, just where it grows, all winter. The flavor is said to be
improved by hard freezing, and no amount of freezing will hurt it.

It has a high value as human food, and is demanded in large quantities
in some markets. It also has a high value as a stock food, especially
for cows. It should be fed after milking, in quantities not sufficient
to taint the milk. The price is variable, but about the same as the
carrot.

     PARSNIP.--We recommend Ideal Hollow Crown. For description, see
     "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT.

Salsify, oyster plant or vegetable oyster is a root of easy culture
and of high food value. In shape it resembles the carrot and parsnip,
and is as perfectly hardy as the latter. The seed should be sown an
inch under the surface, in spring, in rows 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 feet apart,
and the plants thinned to stand 5 inches apart in the rows. The
culture is the same as for parsnips. Fresh manure must be avoided, as
it makes the roots ill-shaped. The roots, under good treatment, will
exceed an inch in diameter, and may attain a size of 2 inches or more.
They may remain in the ground over winter, to be taken up whenever the
frost permits or they may be taken up in late autumn and preserved in
sand in a cellar. Good salsify is in demand where its merits are known.


THE POTATO.

The cultivation of the potato is so well understood by every American
farmer and gardener that it seems unnecessary to discuss the details
of cutting the tubers, planting, cultivating, harvesting, etc. The
weak points of potato culture are most commonly the fertilizing and
the treatment of diseases. These will be briefly discussed. As to lack
of moisture, to be remedied by artificial watering, the reader is
referred to our new book, entitled, "Irrigation by Cheap Modern
Methods," in which a case is mentioned where water alone made a
difference of 129 bushels per acre in the crop.

     POTATOES.--Best for the South, Bliss Triumph, Pride of the South,
     Crown Jewel, Early Thoroughbred. General crop in the
     North--Houlton Early Rose, Table King, Late Puritan, Rural
     New-Yorker No. 2. For descriptions of these and other varieties,
     see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Fertilizing.=--A ton of potatoes (33-1/3 bushels) contains 4.2 pounds
of nitrogen (equal to 5.1 pounds of ammonia), 1.5 pounds of phosphoric
acid and 10 pounds of potash. This shows that nitrogen and potash are
the elements mainly abstracted from the soil by a crop of potatoes. An
analysis is not an infallible index of what must be applied to any
soil, for that soil may be naturally rich in some one fertilizing
element and deficient in the others. Only experiment will determine
what is best. But a knowledge of the analysis of the crop is necessary
to intelligent experimentation. Nitrogen and potash will evidently be
demanded in most cases, yet the Ohio Station recently reports that
"phosphoric acid has been the controlling factor in the increase of
the potato yields" in the trials made there. This shows how greatly
soils vary in their requirements.

[Illustration: Harvesting Seed Potatoes near Houlton, Aroostook
County, Maine.]

Barnyard manure would answer all purposes and would be an ideal potato
fertilizer, except for the fact that it so often carries with it the
spores of such diseases as blight, scab and rot. Still, barnyard manure
in a partly rotted condition is very widely used by potato growers.

Clover sod is an excellent source of nitrogen, as heretofore
explained. The clover is, perhaps, the best of the leguminous crops
for green manuring purposes. Many successful potato farmers depend
largely upon clover, supplementing it with a small amount of
high-grade complete fertilizer in the rows.

Where phosphoric acid is necessary, it can be had in the form of
ground bone or acidulated rock, and potash can be had in the form of
sulphate or as kainit. Where the scab is prevalent, it may prove
better to use kainit, on account of the salt which it contains, as
will be presently explained.

=Planting.=--It requires from seven to ten bushels of tubers to plant
an acre. Some growers use as much as fifteen bushels. The date of
planting, depth, distance between rows, etc., are details for
individual determination. Flat culture is better than ridge culture,
so far as conservation of moisture is concerned. It is important that
good Northern-grown seed be planted; tubers which have not lost their
strength by excessive sprouting. Storage in a cool, dark, dry place is
best for potatoes. Whether planted early or late, or at successional
dates, must be determined by the market requirements of the grower.

=Varieties.=--The varieties of potatoes are many, and while it is wise
to experiment in a small way on new kinds, it is best to depend for
business purposes on standard sorts that have been fully tested.

=Irrigation.=--After the farmer has exhausted his best efforts in the
preparation and fertilization of the soil, and after good seed has
been planted and the best possible culture given, there may come a
season of prolonged drouth that will defeat his purpose of securing a
large crop. This result is not common, but neither is it rare; and
where farmers are looking toward the high culture of certain special
crops, it would be well for them to consider the matter of
artificially watering their potato fields.

[Illustration: An Average Tuber of Table King, One of the Best All
Around Potatoes.]

=Diseases and Enemies.=--Not counting dry weather, which sometimes
robs the farmer of two-thirds of his crop, there are four diseases
which exert a disastrous influence on the potato, and which are liable
to occur any season. Two of these diseases are of the leaf and stem
and two of the tubers.

The two leaf troubles are respectively known as blight or downy mildew
and the Macrosporium disease. The two tuber troubles are scab and rot.

=Leaf Blights.=--No attempt will be made here to separately describe
the two leaf diseases. Both destroy the foliage and check the further
growth of both vine and tuber. The leaves turn brown or black, and the
stem quickly wilts and falls. There can be no growth of tuber without
vigorous health of vine. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, in advance of
the occurrence of any disease, is recommended.

Bordeaux mixture for this purpose is made by using six pounds of
copper sulphate and four pounds of quick lime, dissolved in separate
wooden vessels, and the lime water poured into the dissolved blue
stone. This should be diluted with water sufficient to fill a
forty-five gallon barrel. Paris green to the amount of from
one-quarter to three-quarters of a pound to the barrel should be
added, to destroy beetles and other insects.

The vines should be sprayed five or six times, beginning when they are
6 inches high, at intervals of ten days or two weeks. During rainy
weather the spraying should be more frequent than during clear
weather. The object is to prolong the life and vigor of the vines. The
cost of the five or six sprayings, including labor at $1.50 per day,
is put at not above $6 per acre, while the crop at stake may be
affected to the extent of scores of bushels.

=Scab and Rot.=--The evidence about scab and rot is still contradictory,
but it is likely that these diseases will presently be under control.

At the New Jersey Station, Professor Halsted completely conquered scab
with an application of 300 pounds of flowers of sulphur per acre
scattered in the rows, while the same treatment at the Ohio Station
was less successful. At the latter station benefit was found in the
use of salt, kainit, sulphate of potash, etc.

The various experiments and observations on potato scab and rot seem
to indicate that scab flourishes best on a soil inclined to be
alkaline, while rot is most prevalent on a soil inclined to be acid.
The use of lime increases scab, while the use of kainit diminishes it.

The best practice, therefore, under present knowledge, would be to use
clean seed on new ground, avoiding fresh stable manure. Clean seed can
be had by treating tubers with corrosive sublimate. This substance is
dissolved to the amount of 2-1/4 ounces, in two gallons of hot water,
and (after standing a day) diluted with water so as to make fifteen
gallons. In this solution the uncut seed potatoes should be soaked for
an hour and a half. All unplanted seed potatoes should be destroyed,
as the corrosive sublimate is highly poisonous.

The use of sulphur, as recommended by Professor Halsted, will prove
entirely satisfactory in some soils. In others, the use of kainit or
sulphate of potash or acid phosphate would no doubt be found preferable.

Where soil is badly affected with disease germs, it is unquestionably
better to seek a new field than to attempt to disinfect the old one. A
rotation of crops will probably restore diseased land to health more
cheaply and more thoroughly than any other process.

=Profits.=--Of potato profits it is not necessary to speak, except to
remark that it costs but little more to produce 300 bushels to the
acre than 100 bushels. There can be no doubt whatever that it pays
handsomely to spray potato vines with the Bordeaux mixture.


PUMPKINS AND SQUASHES.

[Illustration: Mammoth Golden Cashaw Pumpkin, One of the Best for
Market or Stock Feeding.]

There is no clear dividing line between pumpkins and squashes, as they
belong to the same botanic family--the Cucurbita. Some members of the
group are clearly pumpkins, and others just as clearly squashes, but
when an attempt is made to draw a sharp line between them, we get into
difficulty. In general terms the pumpkin has a soft rind or shell and
the squash a hard rind. But even this thumbnail test is not infallible.

These vegetables belong on the farm, on account of the large ground
space occupied by the vines. Pumpkins may be economically grown in
corn fields, the seeds being planted along with the corn--one pumpkin
seed to every fourth hill. No special care is needed besides the
cultivation given the corn.

Farmers should give far more attention to growing squashes, as they
are much superior to pumpkins in food quality, both for the table and
for stock.

There are numbers of excellent squashes now catalogued by the seedsmen
which many farmers have never tried, but which are worthy of
cultivation for market purposes. When a farmer by experiment has found
a high-quality squash adapted to his soil, he has put himself in
possession of a product of permanent market value.

     PUMPKIN.--We especially recommend Mammoth Golden Cashaw and
     Winter Luxury. For descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden
     and Farm Manual."

     SQUASH.--Early varieties--Mammoth White Bush Scalloped, Giant
     Summer Crookneck. Winter-keeping varieties--Sweet Nut, Faxon,
     Chicago Warted, Hubbard, Early Prolific Orange Marrow. For
     descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


TOMATOES.

Tomatoes may justly be rated among the leading crops available to farm
gardeners. There is always a brisk market for selected,
carefully-washed tomatoes, packed in new baskets. Such produce is
seldom offered in excessive quantities.

Any good corn land will produce good tomatoes. Excessive manuring is
likely to stimulate the vines at the expense of the fruit. A little
complete fertilizer or compost in the hills is desirable.

Tomato seed of early varieties should be started under glass. The seed
is sown on heat and the plants once or twice transplanted, and put in
the open ground as soon as danger of frost is over. Little is gained
by setting out too early, when the ground is cool. The tomato is of
tropical origin, and makes rapid growth only at a temperature of 65 deg.
or upward. Indeed, it is suspected that one of the worst diseases to
which the tomato is liable, the blight, is encouraged, if not wholly
caused by too early planting in the open ground.

=Varieties and Planting.=--At 4 feet apart each way, it will require
about 2,700 tomato plants for an acre of land. In open field culture
the tomato is always allowed to lie upon the ground. In garden
culture, it is often tied to stakes or supported on trellises. Three
ounces of seed will raise sufficient plants for an acre.

There are many varieties of tomatoes, including the early and late
market sorts, the yellow kinds, and the little pear-shaped and
plum-shaped tomatoes, both red and yellow, used in pickling. The ideal
market tomato is one of medium size and smooth shape. It must have
firmness and depth, and the quality of ripening evenly all over. There
should be neither greenness nor wrinkles around the calyx, nor should
the fruit be of irregular shape. As to color, it is a matter of taste
and neighborhood preference. Some markets demand red and some purple
fruit.

     TOMATO.--We recommend, for earliest, Atlantic Prize and Money
     Maker; for second early and main crop, Brinton's Best, New
     Fortune; for late, Brandywine, Cumberland Red, Stone. For
     descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Successional Planting.=--If the first tomato plants be set in the
open ground (at Philadelphia) May 15th to 20th, there should be at
least one and preferably two later crops, because young, vigorous
plants yield the most and best fruit. It is good practice to sow
tomato seed in the open ground, say about middle of May, and again
somewhat later. These out-of-door plants will come forward very
rapidly, and will be ready to produce late summer and autumn crops.

[Illustration: Atlantic Prize Tomatoes, as they Appear for Sale on
Fruit Stands, etc., during the Spring Months.]

=Cultivation.=--The tomato is of the easiest cultivation, and will
grow even under neglect, but it so abundantly repays attention, that
no farmer can afford to be careless about the matter. The nights of
May are cool in the North, and the newly-set plant at first makes
little growth. Cultivator and hand-hoe should both be kept in motion
during this period, and in June also. In the latter month the tomato
will make a sudden leap toward maturity, and will yield ripe fruit in
July. The out-of-doors cropping season lasts for three full months.
The tomato is now grown under glass almost everywhere, and is to be
had in the market during all the months of the year.

[Illustration: The Great B. B. (Brinton's Best) Tomato, Best for Main
Crop.]

The out-of-doors season is profitably prolonged by picking all the
mature or nearly mature fruit when the first frost comes, in October,
and placing these unripe tomatoes on straw in a cold frame. Covered
with straw and with the sash to keep out frost, the fruit ripens in a
satisfactory manner for several weeks. Such a frame must be well
ventilated or the tomatoes will rot rather than ripen.

[Illustration: New Fortune, one of the Best Second Early Tomatoes.]

=Diseases and Enemies.=--Tomato diseases, fortunately, are not
numerous. Blight sometimes sweeps off a whole field of early-set
tomato plants, on farms where later plantings are quite healthy. This
favors the theory that blight results from weakness caused by early
planting in cold ground. It is a fungous disease, and may sometimes be
prevented by the use of Bordeaux mixture. The same remedy is the best
known preventive of black rot.

Potato bugs may be either hand-picked or poisoned with Paris green.
The tobacco worm sometimes causes much damage to the tomato. All
diseased or blighted tomato vines should be promptly burned, and the
crop carried to new soil the following year.

=Marketing, Profits, etc.=--As already stated, choice tomatoes in
clean baskets are always in demand, and a new basket will usually pay
for itself on a single sale. The sum of $150 per acre may be quoted as
the average gross receipts from tomatoes at present prices. This
estimate is based on the low yield of a half-peck of fruit to each
vine at 25 cents per basket. If sold retail, the tomatoes would
command more money, while if sold in bulk to a canning factory the
gross receipts might be larger or smaller, depending on the size of
the general crop and other circumstances.


TURNIPS AND RUTA BAGAS.

Turnips and ruta bagas are closely related. The latter are turnips in
fact, and are frequently called Swedes. The common method on many
farms is to sow turnips broadcast, but it is a far better practice to
sow both these and the ruta bagas in drills, so that they can be kept
clear of weeds and worked by horse-power. Not only are these
advantages secured, but the row system makes it possible to take out
the superfluous plants, and secure roots of uniform size and shape.
Turnips and ruta bagas have high economic value as foods, both for
humanity and for live stock.

=Turnips.=--Turnips are grown for market purposes both in spring and
in fall. In the spring the seed should be sown early, in mellow soil.
For the fall crop the seed may be sown either in July or August. The
rows in garden or field may be as close as can be conveniently worked.

     TURNIP.--For earliest, we recommend Purple Top and White Milan.
     For fall crop, Mammoth Purple Top Globe and Golden Ball. For
     descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

[Illustration: Budlong or Breadstone Turnip.]

=Ruta Bagas or Swedes.=--The seed of ruta baga or Swedish turnip
should be sown (in the latitude of Philadelphia) in July, a little
earlier than the seed of the common turnip. The ground should be well
enriched with rotted manure, the rows 2-1/2 to 3 feet apart, the seed
covered to the depth of half an inch, and the plants afterward thinned
out so as to stand 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. The crop is almost
always large and satisfactory.

     RUTA BAGA.--We recommend Myer's Purple Top Beauty and Budlong.
     For descriptions, see our "Garden and Farm Manual."

[Illustration: Myer's Purple Top Beauty Ruta Baga.]

=Storage.=--Turnips of all kinds sell well in the winter markets, to
say nothing of their high value as stock foods. They are easily
preserved in root cellars, covered with sand, or in pits in dry soil,
covered with straw and earth to prevent freezing.

[Illustration: Distribution of Water through Home-made Hose Pipe. An
Illustration from our New Book--"Irrigation by Cheap Modern Methods."
No Gardener should miss Reading this Work. See page 125.]




CHAPTER IV.

VEGETABLES SUITED TO FARM CULTURE IN SOME LOCATIONS.


In this portion of the book are grouped a number of vegetables not
adapted to every farm or location. The list includes celery, water
cress, cucumbers, egg plants, kale, lettuce, melons, mushrooms,
onions, peas, radishes, rhubarb, spinach, sweet potato, etc. Where
favored locations for their production exist on farms they may be
grown with profit, if markets are accessible.


CELERY.

On very many farms there are meadows with deep, rich soils that are
now lying under grass; or, worse, under tussocks and swamp weeds. Some
locations are subject to disastrous overflow during freshets, but
innumerable spots exist where such meadows could with safety be
converted into celery gardens, capable of easy irrigation, either
situated above the level of floods or susceptible of artificial
protection by means of cheap embankments. Such situations are entirely
too valuable to use for pasturage. They are the truck gardens of the
future.

=Perfect Celery.=--The object in celery-growing is to produce thick,
robust, tender, solid, crisp, sweet leaf stalks, free from rust or
insect attacks. The essentials are rich land and plenty of water, and
skill is required in the two points of bleaching and storing. But
there are no mysterious processes to be learned. The Kalamazoo growers
have, it is true, a rare advantage in their deep muck soil, with a
permanent water level only a few inches or feet below the surface, but
their success depends on accuracy of working detail almost as much as
on perfection of soil. It is not necessary to go to Michigan for good
celery ground.

=Fertilizers.=--The best known fertilizer for celery is thoroughly
rotted barnyard manure. Fresh manure is to be avoided for several
reasons. It is less available for plant food, more likely to produce
rust, and more liable to open the soil and render it too dry.
Commercial fertilizers are not infrequently used, but there is a
decided preference among many celery growers for the rotted stable
product. Shallow plowing (5 inches) is practiced, as celery roots do
not go deep.

=Planting.=--It requires from 20,000 to 35,000 celery plants to the
acre, according to their distances apart. In the intense culture at
the great celery centres two crops (and even three crops) of celery
are grown upon the land per year, by a system of planting between
rows, but in the operations of farm gardeners not more than one crop
per season is grown. This may follow an earlier market crop, such as
peas, beans, onions or sweet corn, though where the farmer is hard
pushed with other work, the celery may be grown without any other crop
preceding it, but not upon newly-turned sod land, as the earth should
be loose and mellow.

Seed for early celery must be started under glass, but the farmer will
find his best celery market in the autumn. April will, therefore, be
ample time for sowing the seed, which should be scattered thinly in
rows in finely-raked mellow soil in the open ground, and covered
lightly. The seed is very slow to germinate, and the bed should be
copiously watered until the plants are well started. In small
operations, it is well to transplant at least once. In large
operations, the plants are thinned out in the original rows, and
carried from thence direct to the field. The upper leaves and the tips
of the roots are cut off, and the plants are set firmly in the soil by
means of a dibber.

[Illustration: J. & S. Golder Self-Blanching Celery Prepared for
Market.]

=Dates and Distances.=--July is a proper time for setting out celery;
preferably after a rain or during dull weather. The rows may be from 3
to 5 feet apart, depending on the purpose of the planter, and the
plants 5 or 6 inches apart in the rows. If the celery is to be stored
for blanching, 3-feet rows may be used. If it is to be blanched in the
field, the distance between the rows should be greater, so that more
loose soil will be available for hilling.

One ounce of celery seed will furnish 2,500 to 3,000 plants. A half
pound is sufficient to furnish plants for an acre.

Even on good ground celery should not be set out later than August
15th (in the latitude of Philadelphia), and preferably earlier.

The system of level planting is practiced by large growers everywhere.
Trenching is still followed in some private gardens, but is too
expensive for commercial operations.

=Varieties.=--The so-called dwarf and half-dwarf varieties have pushed
the larger kinds out of the market almost entirely, though seed of the
giant sorts can still be obtained. The dwarf kinds are large enough
for all purposes, however, and are in best favor everywhere. They are
about 18 inches high, as compared to twice that height in the
old-fashioned giant types.

The favorites of late years for early celery are the self-blanching
sorts, such as White Plume and Golden Self-Blanching, which are the
result of the continued selection of individual plants or sports
showing a tendency to blanch easily. For winter keeping, the Perle Le
Grand, Winter Queen and Perfection Heartwell are the best. These
varieties are beautiful as well as highly palatable. There are also
red or pink sorts, of high table merit and good keeping qualities.

     CELERY.--We recommend Golden Self-Blanching and White Plume for
     early, Perle Le Grand for both early and late and Winter Queen
     for late. The latter is the very best keeper. See "Johnson &
     Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Cultivation.=--The proper culture of the celery has already been
suggested in the allusion to its need for water and its shallow
feeding habits. The surface soil should be highly enriched, the
stirring of the soil very shallow, and the water supply copious,
either by capillary attraction from below (as at Kalamazoo) or by
rainfall or artificial irrigation.

=Blanching.=--The first step in the process of blanching or bleaching
is what is known as handling. This operation consists in grasping all
the leaves of a celery plant in one hand, while with the other the
soil is drawn together and packed so as to hold the stalks in an
upright, compact position. This single operation will fit some of the
early-planted sorts for market in the course of two weeks; though a
second operation, called hilling, is usually considered desirable,
even with the self-blanching sorts. See photograph on first page.

The Kalamazoo growers depend on muck for field blanching, though they
also use boards. Muck is merely a dark soil, containing or consisting
mainly of vegetable matter. They first "handle," as just described,
and about five days later draw 6 inches more of the muck about the
celery stalks. Again, three days later, they draw an additional 2
inches about the stalks, and in two weeks from the start the celery is
ready for market.

These operations are frequently done by two men working together, one
holding the stalks and the other drawing the soil to them. The first
operation puts the stalks in an upright, compact position, so that
little or no soil can get into the heart of the plant. The second
draws about the plant all the soil that will conveniently remain
there. The third merely supplements the second, as the hill has had
time to become somewhat firm and has settled away a little from the
upper leaves.

Boards are used for summer blanching, as they are less heating than
soil. Ordinary lumber, free from knot holes, is employed. The boards
rest on their edges, one board on each side of the row, the tops being
drawn together until within 2-1/2 inches of each other, and the lower
edge of the board held in place either by stakes or by soil.

The work of handling or hilling must be done only when the celery is dry
and unfrozen. In fact, celery must never be handled when wet (except
when preparing it for market), or it will surely be rusted and spoiled.

The same practices of blanching celery as here mentioned in connection
with the Kalamazoo operations are in vogue near Philadelphia and other
Eastern cities, and are not new. The real reason that Kalamazoo is so
celebrated is her possession of that wonderful black muck soil,
underlaid with standing water. This has attracted the best celery
growers of the country; men who have small places of from one to three
acres, and who work out every detail to perfection, employing little
labor outside of their own families and concentrating their efforts on
the production of perfect celery crops. There are extensive celery
growers at Kalamazoo, with tracts of thirty or more acres devoted
exclusively to this vegetable, but the majority of the gardens there
are small, and much hand-work is done.

=Winter Storage.=--The art of the winter storage of celery, as practiced
by large growers, is not hard to learn. Both at Kalamazoo and here in
the Eastern States there are two methods in vogue. One is the use of
especially-built houses, and the other is the open-field plan.

[Illustration: Blanching Celery with Boards.]

[Illustration: Winter Queen, the Best Late Winter Keeping Celery.]

The celery house or "coop" is a low frame structure, half under
ground, generally 14 or 16 feet wide, and as long as may be desired.
There is a door in one end and a window in the other. The sides, ends
and roof are double and filled with sawdust. There are wooden chimneys
or ventilators at intervals of 12 feet along the peak of the roof, and
sometimes there are glass windows in the roof, provided with wooden
shutters. The celery stands upon the floor, which is of loose soil.
There is a narrow walk lengthwise in the middle of the building, and
boards extending from the central walk to the side walls separate the
packed celery into narrow sections. No earth is placed between the
celery stalks as they stand. They are, in fact, rooted in the soil of
the floor, and are thus able to make the slight growth demanded for
complete blanching. The various doors, windows and ventilators make it
possible to keep the air fresh and wholesome, and during cold weather
a stove may afford heat to the storage room. Artificial heat is not
commonly required.

Another method, cheaper and quite as satisfactory, especially on farms
or in market gardens, is to trench the celery in the open field. The
situation of the trench must be a dry one, where there will be no
standing water. The trench must be nearly or quite as deep as the
height of the celery, with perpendicular sides, and a foot or less in
width. The stalks are set upright in the trench, with all decayed or
worthless leaves removed, as closely as they will stand, without soil
between them. To keep them in that condition is purely a matter of
care. If they are buried deeply and the weather proves warm they will
rot. But if the covering be decreased in warm weather and increased in
cold weather, the celery can be kept in perfect condition. In private
gardens celery is often planted in double rows, a foot apart, and
wintered where it grows by covering deeply with soil.

An excellent plan is to make an A-shaped trough of two boards to turn
the rain, on top of which a greater or less amount of straw, leaves or
litter may be piled, if needed.

Mice sometimes do considerable damage to stored celery, but are more
easily controlled in short trenches than in long ones.

Small amounts of celery may be stored in cellars, in boxes a foot wide
and a foot deep, with damp sand in the bottom. No soil is needed
between the plants. The coolest and darkest part of the cellar is best
for storage.

=Diseases.=--Celery diseases are preventable and insect attacks are
few. For blight, kainit is recommended, both in the seed-bed and open
field. For rust, the Bordeaux mixture is advised. Hollow-stemmed or
pithy celery is the result of poor stock or improper soil, and can be
avoided by the use of more manure and more water.

=New Process.=--The method of growing celery in highly enriched soil,
with plants set 6 or 8 inches apart both ways, is quite feasible. The
plants stand so close as to blanch each other to some extent, but the
system has never attracted general favor. A great deal of water is
required. Cultivation is possible only when the plants are small.

=Profits.=--The use of celery is obviously on the increase, but the
demand is for a first-class article. The cash results may be set at
anywhere from $200 to $500 per acre. The actual net profits of
well-conducted operations are considerable.


WATER CRESS.

Water cress, a vegetable closely allied to several other edible
cresses, is used in very large quantities in all city restaurants. It
is a much-esteemed winter relish, and is mostly served with every one
of the thousands of beefsteak orders daily filled in the great eating
houses and lunch rooms. The demand for it seems to be on the increase.

[Illustration: Water Cress.]

Water cress is of the easiest culture. It can be grown in the soil of
a forcing house under glass, and is extensively produced in this way
by market gardeners.

The cheapest method is to grow it in running water, preferably near a
spring head; and many such situations are available to farmers. Flat
beds, made of loam, gravel, or sand, covered with 3 or 4 inches of
warm, spring water, will yield great quantities of water cress in
early spring; and the use of a few sash will keep the cress in growth
during the winter. The cress should be cut frequently, as the young
shoots are most succulent and tender.

For market purposes the water cress is tied in bunches, and retailed at
from 3 to 10 cents per bunch, or packed in pint boxes, leaves uppermost,
and retailed for about 10 cents per box. These are winter and early
spring prices. Water cress culture is profitable in favored locations.


CUCUMBER.

The cucumber market is not easily over-supplied, but the pickling tub
should stand ready to receive all cucumbers not sold in a fresh
condition.

For field culture, good ground must be selected, and marked out with a
plow, 4 x 4 feet; or, a little wider, if the soil is strong. At least
one shovelful of well-rotted manure is dropped in every hill, and
mixed with the soil, and a dozen seeds planted, to be thinned out
finally to three or four plants. It is better to have extra plants, on
account of the attacks of the striped beetle.

The cucumber belongs to a botanic family which is naturally tender,
and the seeds should not be sown until the soil is quite warm. For
farm work, the planting season is the latter part of May and the whole
of June; and even July is a suitable month, if the soil can be
irrigated. It will require two pounds of seed for an acre.

The variety sown should depend on the purpose in view; but in all
commercial operations, well-known and thoroughly tested sorts should
be chosen. Shallow cultivation is recommended.

If an early market is to be supplied with cucumbers, the seeds may be
started under glass, on bits of inverted sod or in small boxes, and
set in the open ground on the arrival of settled warm weather; but the
farmer will usually find it most profitable to sow the seeds where the
plants are to remain.

The most serious enemy of the cucumber vine is the striped beetle,
which attacks the young plant and frequently ruins it. The remedy is
air-slaked lime, or soot, or sifted coal ashes, or wood ashes diluted
with dry road dust. The best preventive is salt or kainit, used in the
hills. The true plan is to have strong, vigorous plants, which, as a
rule, will resist and outgrow the striped beetle, and be not greatly
injured by its attacks. There is a blight which sometimes destroys the
cucumber vine, apparently the result of weakness following a prolonged
drouth.

The vine of the cucumber must be kept in vigorous growth, not only by
cultivation and a sufficient water-supply, but by care in removing all
the fruit as soon as formed, for, if the seeds be permitted to
mature, the vine will quickly perish. It is the purpose of the vine's
existence to produce ripe seeds, and it will make repeated and
long-continued efforts to accomplish this end. In gathering the
cucumbers, it is important to avoid injuring the vine. Some growers
use a knife; others break the stem by a dexterous twist, without
injuring the vine in the least.

[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey Pickle Cucumber.]

It requires 300 cucumbers (more or less) of fair pickling size to make
a bushel, and it is estimated that an acre will produce from 100 to
200 bushels, or even more. When the pickles are pulled while quite
small, the number runs up to 125,000 per acre; and the pickle
factories in some cases make their estimates on a yield of 75,000 per
acre. The price is variable, but often quite profitable.

     CUCUMBER.--For planting in the South to ship to Northern markets
     use Improved Arlington White Spine. Giant of Pera is a fine table
     sort. For pickling, plant Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey
     Pickle. For description see our "Garden and Farm Manual."

=Downy Mildew.=--A disease which lately threatened to destroy the
business of growing pickles in New Jersey and elsewhere, the downy
mildew of the cucumber, can be fully overcome by spraying the vines
with Bordeaux mixture. It requires six or seven applications, at
intervals of a week or ten days, to conquer this comparatively new
disease. Downy mildew is a fungous trouble affecting the leaves and
destroying the further usefulness of the vine. A recent New York
experiment showed a yield of $173 worth of pickles per acre under
spraying as against complete failure where the Bordeaux mixture was
not used. The cost of spraying was $9.50 per acre, leaving $163.50 per
acre as the value of the crop saved by the operation.


EGG PLANT.

The advisability of growing egg plants in farm gardening operations is
a question of location. On a suitable soil, near a good market, the
operation will be a profitable one, if rightly managed. The egg plant
is a tender vegetable, botanically allied to both the tomato and the
potato, but less hardy than either, especially when young. For this
reason it is best to delay sowing the seed, even in hot-beds, until
cold weather is past, for the tender seedlings never fully recover
from a chill or set-back. Indeed, for the farm gardener the month of
May is early enough to sow the seed under glass, for this plant grows
with great rapidity in a warm soil, and May-sown seed not infrequently
yields plants that outstrip those sown a full month earlier.

[Illustration: New Jersey Improved Large Purple Smooth Stem Egg Plant.]

The egg plant demands a richer soil than either the potato or tomato.
It also asks for more water. It is a rank feeder. A good stimulant, if
rotted manure cannot be had, is nitrate of soda at the rate of 400
pounds to the acre.

The farm gardener will do well to consider his market before engaging
in the production of the egg plant on an extensive scale, for it is a
perishable product. It bears shipment well, but its use is mainly
limited to consumption while fresh. It may command a very high price
at some seasons of the year and at other times be practically
unsalable at any price, owing to an over-supply.

If egg-plant seed be sown under glass in early May, and carefully
protected against cool weather (especially at night), the young plants
will be ready to transplant before the end of the month and large
enough for the open field in June. They should be set in rows 4 feet
apart, and about 3 feet apart in the row. Set at these distances, an
acre of ground would accommodate about 3,500 plants.

The enemy of the egg plant, in growth, is the potato bug, which must
be hand-picked or poisoned. There is a rot which causes the fruit to
drop from the stem before reaching maturity. This rot is a fungus, and
the Bordeaux mixture is recommended for it. The blight which sometimes
affects the foliage is in part at least caused by cold weather, and
for this there is no remedy, except late planting.

Every healthy plant should produce from two to six or more full-sized
fruits, and it is therefore easy to calculate that an acre's product
under favorable circumstances may be very large.

     EGG PLANT.--There is nothing equal to the New Jersey Improved
     Large Purple Smooth Stem for the use of farm gardeners. For
     description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Imperial, or Long Standing Kale.]

KALE OR BORECOLE.

Kale, of which there are many varieties, is a headless cabbage,
closely allied to such vegetables as Brussels sprouts, collards, etc.
It is one of the most hardy of vegetables, and in this latitude it
will live over winter in the open ground, with only straw or litter as
a protection. If cut for use when frozen it should be thawed out in
cold water. The kales are among the most delicately flavored cabbages.
Some of them are of such ornamental shape as to be full worthy of
cultivation for decorative purposes. The height varies from 1 to 2
feet, and the colors include both greens, dark purples and
intermediate shades.

Kale demands a rich, deep soil. The seed should be sown in a border or
seed-bed, and transplanted to the open field and set in rows, after the
manner of cabbage. It is largely and profitably grown in the South for
shipment to the great Northern markets. Where farmers are situated near
centres of population where kale is in demand, its culture will be found
profitable, as it requires even less labor than cabbage. It is planted
both in spring and autumn. The former crop is for autumn consumption and
the latter crop is carried over winter after the manner of spinach,
protected by a light covering of some sort of litter.

     KALE.--For the South, we recommend Extra Dwarf Green Curled
     Scotch; for the North, Johnson & Stokes' New Imperial. See our
     "Garden and Farm Manual" for descriptions.


LETTUCE.

In some sections, especially in the South, lettuce can be grown with
profit by farm gardeners. Depending on the latitude, the seed may be
planted from autumn until spring. The plants are usually sheltered and
headed under glass, or under muslin-covered sash, and are sent North
in ventilated barrels.

The lettuce is naturally a cool-weather plant, and its culture is
easy. The seed is cheap and it germinates quickly. Well-grown lettuce
always commands good prices. It is usual to start the seeds in a
border or under a frame, and to prick out the plants into more roomy
quarters as soon as they are large enough to handle. In a few weeks
after transplanting, in good growing weather, they are headed ready
for market. Good soil, abundance of moisture and free ventilation are
essentials in lettuce production.

[Illustration]

In some parts of the North lettuce culture would be found profitable
by farmers in the summer season, for there are varieties well adapted
to high temperature, provided good soil and sufficient water be
furnished. There is not a month in the year when lettuce is not
demanded for use in salads, and this demand is likely to increase.

     LETTUCE.--For the South, we especially recommend Reichner's Early
     White Butter, Big Boston and New Treasure; for the North, New
     Sensation, Mammoth Salamander and Hornberger's Dutch Butter.
     Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


MELONS.

Melon culture belongs on the farm rather than in the small market
garden, on account of the large space occupied by the growing vines.
An acre of ground will accommodate only about 450 watermelon hills (at
10 feet each way) or about 1,200 muskmelon or cantaloupe hills (6 feet
each way), and hence the necessity for large areas of ground for the
cultivation of these crops.

The requirements of the various melons are quite similar. Broken sod
ground or any green crop turned down favors their growth, and
well-rotted stable manure in the hill is the best known stimulant. All
the melons are tender, and are suited only to warm-weather growth, and
this fact must be remembered in sowing the seed. Light alluvial soil
near rivers or streams is adapted to melon growth, and many an old
meadow now weedy and unprofitable might be used to advantage for one
of these crops.

[Illustration: New Black-eyed Susan Watermelon.]

=The Watermelon.=--For cash-producing purposes the best watermelon is
a large one, with a hard rind. It must have a dark pink or red centre
and must be a good shipper. It should weigh thirty to forty pounds,
and there should be 900 to 1,000 first-class melons to the acre.

The best melon for family use or for a strictly retail trade is a
medium-sized variety, which has a thin rind, pink or red flesh and
extra sweetness, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds.

The preparation of the ground has already been suggested. Two shovels
of manure should go into each hill. The planting date is May in this
latitude; or as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm. Four pounds of
seed per acre will be required. But one plant per hill is allowed to
grow. The end of the main shoots should be pinched off, to encourage
branching and flowering.

[Illustration]

Cultivation should be thorough. Fungous diseases can be controlled by
means of the Bordeaux mixture, except that it is difficult to reach
the under side of the leaves. To prevent sunburn on melons, some
growers sow buckwheat when the vines are in blossom, and thus secure a
partial shade by the time the fruit is large enough to be injured by
the sun. Generally, no protection is necessary.

At $10 or $15 per hundred, the average wholesale price at Philadelphia,
watermelon culture is profitable. Early prices are higher.

     WATER MELONS.--For shipping--Johnson's Dixie, Blue Gem, Duke
     Jones, Sweet Heart. For home market--Black-Eyed Susan, Florida
     Favorite, Kentucky Wonder, McIver's Wonderful Sugar. For
     descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Citron.=--This small round melon is cultivated in all respects as the
watermelon, but being smaller the hills may be closer. It is used in
making preserves. The name citron is frequently applied to certain of
the cantaloupes.

=Cantaloupes or Muskmelons.=--It is a matter of choice whether the
green-fleshed or red-fleshed sorts are grown; or whether the variety
be large or small. The sorts covered with strongly webbed or netted
markings are in high favor for shipping to distant points, as they
carry well. Flavor is in part at least a matter of temperature and
sunshine. Cantaloupes may be nicely ripened by removing them from the
vines and storing in dry, warm rooms.

The usual planting distance is from 4-1/2 to 6 feet, in hills
containing rotted manure. Compost, made of hen manure, is sometimes
used in the hill, well mixed with the soil. Good cantaloupes are
always in active demand.

     MUSK MELONS.--Early sorts for shipping--McCleary's Improved Jenny
     Lind, Netted Beauty, The Captain, Champion Market, Improved
     Netted Gem, Anne Arundel. Late sorts--The Princess, Johnson &
     Stokes' Superb, etc. See "Garden and Farm Manual" for
     descriptions.

[Illustration: McCleary's Improved Early Jenny Lind Muskmelon.]

=Enemies.=--In addition to the fungous diseases of the watermelon and
cantaloupe, which are best treated with Bordeaux mixture, all melons
are sometimes badly troubled with an aphis called the melon louse. The
remedy is whale-oil soap--a pound in six gallons of water; or kerosene
emulsion. The latter is made by dissolving half a pound of soft soap
in one gallon of water; then adding two gallons of kerosene, churning
violently; then diluting with ten or twelve gallons of water. This
emulsion is put upon the melon vines in the form of a spray, and is
one of the best insecticides known. It is to be used on all sucking
insects, like lice and squash bugs. Biting insects are easily killed
with Paris green--one pound in 100 pounds of flour or plaster, or in
150 gallons of water.

[Illustration: Improved Early Netted Gem Muskmelon (Rose Gem Strain).]

Where the land is suited to melon culture, in any part of the country,
the farm gardener will find no more satisfactory or remunerative crop.


MUSHROOMS.

Under certain favored circumstances the mushroom may be grown as a farm
gardener's crop. The requisites are horse manure and a dark cellar, cave
or vault. If the manure be available and a suitable apartment at hand,
the growing of mushrooms may be taken up for winter work.

[Illustration: A Bed of Mushrooms from English Milltrack Spawn.]

There are many ways of growing mushrooms, and they can be produced in
any situation where a steady temperature of 60 deg. can be maintained. A
simple method is to prepare a bed consisting of horse manure and loam,
three parts by measure of the former and one of the latter, the manure
having been somewhat fermented and sweetened by allowing it to heat
and turning it several times. A compact bed a foot deep is made. This
bed will first heat and then cool. As it cools, when at 80 deg. or 85 deg. an
inch below the surface, bits of brick spawn the size of a hen's egg
are inserted about 9 inches apart.

The bed must not be immediately covered, or the temperature will rise
sufficiently to kill the spawn. In ten days, more or less, as shown by
a thermometer, this danger will be past, and the bed should receive a
coating of good loam an inch deep. No water is to be applied until
after the bed is in full bearing.

It is assumed that the temperature of the room or cellar has been
uniformly 60 deg., day and night; that the bed has not been made where it
could become water-soaked; that it is sufficiently moist, yet not wet;
and that no draft of air has passed over the surface in a way either
to reduce the temperature of the bed itself or to dry the soil upon
the surface. If these conditions cannot be maintained, either by a
specially favorable place or by means of covering the bed with litter,
it is better to let mushrooms alone.

The crop should appear in six or eight weeks, and should last two
months, the total product being from one-half to one pound per square
foot. The cash price is from 50 to 75 cents per pound in the large
cities; and the crop is sufficiently profitable to warrant the losses
which beginners so commonly experience. These losses are the result of
carelessness or ignorance in the matter of details.

The usual sources of failure are poorly prepared beds, the medium
being either too wet or too dry; frequent changes of temperature;
improper use of water; and, lastly, poor or stale spawn.

Mushrooms are packed in small baskets lined with paper, and carefully
covered to prevent evaporation. A five-pound package is a favorite
shipping size.


ONIONS.

The onion is a national crop; as widely though not quite as
extensively grown as the potato. It is available as a money crop for
the farm gardener.

=Choice of Soil.=--Heavy, stiff clay land is to be avoided. Sand and
gravel dry out too quickly. Stony land renders good culture difficult.
The best soil for onions is a deep, rich, mellow loam. Soils which
afford natural advantages for irrigation should not be overlooked, as
the rainfall is often lacking when greatly needed.

=Fertilizers.=--Onion culture demands high manuring. No amount of
rotted stable manure is likely to be excessive. A ton per acre of
high-grade, complete fertilizer is not too much, if moisture can be
supplied. Hen manure is a good top dressing for onion-beds, furnishing
the needed nitrogen. Nitrate of soda is a good source of nitrogen, if
nitrogen must be purchased. The clovers and other leguminous crops
yield the cheapest nitrogen. Wood ashes, kainit, etc., furnish potash.
Either ground bone or acid phosphate will give the needed phosphoric
acid. An analysis of the onion shows that it carries away fertility in
just about the proportions furnished by stable manure.

It is a singular fact that onions can be grown year after year on the
same ground, if well manured. Rotation is necessary only in case of the
occurrence of disease or insect attack. The onion loves cool weather.

=Planting.=--To grow onion sets, the seed is sown in close rows, at
the rate of from fifty to sixty pounds per acre. To grow large onions
direct from seed, five pounds of seed per acre will be required. To
plant a field with onion sets will require twelve to fifteen bushels
per acre, according to size of the set.

[Illustration: A List of the most Popular American Onions.]

An onion set is merely an immature bulb. Sets vary from the size of a
large pea up to that of a walnut. When the seed is sown thickly the
bulbs have no chance to grow, and the summer weather quickly ripens
the tops, completely suspending the growth of the bulb. In some parts
of the country onion sets cannot be grown with profit, as the tops
refuse to die and the bulbs or sets do not ripen properly.

In nearly all parts of the United States onions can be grown direct
from the seed the first year; especially from seed grown around
Philadelphia, which is earlier than Western-grown. It is quite
customary in the South to sow onion seed in late summer or autumn; in
August or September. This will give early spring onions of marketable
size. In the North, within quite recent years, it has become the
practice to sow onion seed in frames, in fall or early spring, and
transplant the young onions to the open ground. This is sometimes
spoken of as the new onion culture.

Onion sets or young plants should be placed 3 or 4 inches apart, in
rows a foot apart, if to be cultivated by hand; the rows farther apart
if for horse work.

The onion is hardy. Many varieties will live in the open ground over
winter, if covered (at the North) with light litter. It is in this way
that shoots for bunching are obtained early in the spring.

The seed should be sown for sets when the apple is in bloom. Sets may
be put into the ground earlier; in fact, as soon as the ground can be
worked. The set should not produce seed the first year, though it
often does so. It should, on the contrary, grow to the size of say 3
inches, and then ripen for winter storage. Excessively large onions
are not desirable. To hasten maturity, the tops may be broken down or
the roots may be cut by running a knife or sharp plow or cultivator
along one side of the row.

The onion, under favorable circumstances, will produce a crop of 800
bushels (fifty-six pounds to the bushel) per acre; though 500 bushels
is nearer the average product.

[Illustration: Weeding a Field of Onion Sets on our Bucks County Seed
Farm near Philadelphia.]

=Storage.=--The storage of onions and onion sets is simple. The bulbs
should first be ripened on the ground, by a brief exposure to wind and
sun. This completes the wilting of the tops. They should then be spread
out on ventilated trays or racks, or a few inches in depth on a floor,
in a dry, shady place, where the air is good, preferably a loft; not a
damp cellar. Freezing will not injure them, but they must not be handled
when they begin to thaw, or they will rot. They must not be bruised
during the operation of gathering or during the process of storage.

A popular and excellent method of wintering onions in cold climates is
to spread straw to the depth of 18 inches on a dry floor or scaffold,
and put on a layer of onions from 6 inches to a foot deep, and cover
with 2 feet of straw. This will not always prevent freezing, but it
checks all sudden changes.

Onions not fully cured should never be kept in barrels, but spread out
so as to be perfectly ventilated. Onion sets shrink greatly in
storage; sometimes as much as one-half between fall and spring.

=Varieties.=--There are many varieties of onions, some of American and
some of foreign origin. The former are better keepers, but the latter
are of milder flavor. The American sorts (Danvers, Southport Globe
varieties, Wethersfield, Extra Early Red, Silver Skin, Strasburg,
etc.) are usually considered to be the most profitable; but the
foreign kinds (Prize Taker, Prize Winner, Pearl, Bermuda, Giant Rocca,
Victoria, etc.) are profitable in those parts of the country where
soil and climate warrant their growth from seed in a single season.

The so-called tree onion is a perennial, of American origin, living
out over winter. It is sometimes called Egyptian or top onion. It
produces bulbs or sets at the top of the seed-stalk.

The potato or multiplier onion divides its large bulb into numerous
small ones, which in turn produce large onions the next year.

     ONIONS.--For farm gardeners' purposes, we especially recommend
     Philadelphia Yellow Globe Danvers, Mammoth Yellow Prizetaker,
     White Prize Winner. Earliest Onions are--Extra Early Red Globe
     Danvers, American Extra Early White Pearl, Rhode Island Yellow
     Cracker. The best for sets--Extra Early Red, Philadelphia Yellow
     Dutch and White Silver Skin. For descriptions of varieties, see
     "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."

=Diseases and Enemies.=--To prevent maggot, the use of kainit is
recommended; 600 pounds per acre. For onion smut, which may in part be
cured by the kainit, the best known remedy is a change of soil. Thrip,
which causes the cuticle of the leaves to become covered with whitish
or yellowish spots, is best treated by means of kerosene emulsion,
used as a spray. The onion fly may, in part, at least, be abated by
the use of equal parts of wood ashes and land plaster dusted very
thoroughly on the young plants. Stiff-necked onions, often called
stags, are the result either of improper growth or poor stock. They
are sometimes planted in autumn for use as scallions (scullions) the
following spring.

=Marketing.=--Onions are sometimes sold in the open field; a good plan
when a fair price can be secured. After curing, as already described,
they are usually sold by the bushel or barrel. They are always in
demand, as the onion is a standard article of human food.

In the green state they are sold either by measure, by the bunch, or
by the rope. The latter method consists in tying the onions along
wisps of straw.

=Scallions.=--No small amount of money is expended by housekeepers in
the early spring markets for scallions (scullions), or bunched onion
shoots. These tender shoots are washed, tied and sold for 3 to 5 cents
per bunch, retail, or half those figures wholesale. Scallions are
produced from either sets or large onions planted the preceding
autumn, and sheltered either by frames or litter, so as to encourage
early spring growth.


PEAS.

It will require one and one-half to two bushels of peas to seed an acre,
and no crop finds a more ready sale than fresh peas in the summer and
autumn markets. Farmers who are near centres of population, or who enjoy
good shipping facilities, will find peas a quick money crop.

Any good soil will produce a crop of this excellent vegetable, but it
must not be assumed because the pea is a legume, with
nitrogen-collecting roots, that it will not well repay the application
of manure to the soil. Peas and beans need less assistance than some
other things, but they give good returns for the application of rotted
manure or artificial fertilizer.

The seed should be put into the ground in early spring, as soon as the
soil is dry enough to receive it, beginning with the smooth,
extra-early sorts, which are more hardy than the wrinkled varieties. A
little subsequent frost will do no harm.

The smooth, early sorts should be sown in rows, about 3 feet apart,
the intermediate or half-dwarf sorts in rows 4 feet apart, and the
tall, late varieties, in rows 5 feet apart.

In field operations no sticks are used, and large pickings are taken
even from the tall-growing vines while sprawling upon the ground; and
the labor is vastly less where no sticks are employed.

The early peas should stand closer in the rows than the later and
larger sorts. The Extra Early kinds mature in fifty to fifty-five days
from germination; the intermediate kinds in sixty-five to seventy
days, and the tall and late kinds in seventy-five to eighty days. For
autumn planting, the extra early varieties are used, and are planted
until sixty days before frost.

[Illustration: Plant of New Giant Podded Marrow Pea.]

Mildew is a field enemy of the pea, resulting from unfavorable
weather. The weevil often attacks the seed, but does not injure it for
market purposes.

The canning of green peas is now an industry of enormous extent in
America. The peas are shelled and sorted by machinery, and thousands
of bushels are annually disposed of in this manner.

The wholesale market price of peas in the pod varies from 50 cents to
$3 per bushel at Philadelphia. The latter price is for the early
product. The usual retail price is 15 to 25 cents per half peck. The
crop of green pods per acre may be rated at 100 bushels, more or less.

     PEAS.--Earliest for the South--Johnson & Stokes' New Record Extra
     Early, Alaska; second early--Johnson & Stokes' Second Early
     Market Garden; late--Giant Podded Marrow, Improved Stratagem,
     Crown Prince, Sugar Marrow. For descriptions, see "Johnson &
     Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


RHUBARB.

In some parts of the United States rhubarb or pie plant is grown in
very considerable quantities for market purposes, and with profit. Its
culture is extremely simple. It is merely necessary to plant seed or
roots, and to have the plants about 4 feet apart each way in a
permanent bed. The plant is a perennial, lasting for many years. It is
a rank feeder, and the more manure given it, the larger and more
succulent will be the young shoots. The roots should be divided every
five years, as they finally become too large. The demand for rhubarb
continues through the spring and into summer, and large quantities are
canned for pie-making. Five leaf stalks make a large bunch. It is
worth $2 to $3 per 100 bunches, wholesale.


RADISH.

Farmers who retail their produce should raise radishes. Rich ground
and abundant moisture are the requisites for quick growth, and upon
quick growth depends good quality. Slow-growing radishes are hot and
pithy. The early sorts are best for spring, but the so-called summer
radishes are best for warm weather, as they are not so liable as the
early kinds to become pithy. Enormous quantities of winter radishes
are grown in autumn, for use and sale during the winter months. They
are kept in sand, like other roots.

[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, the Earliest Radish.]

The early kinds mature in twenty to twenty-five days from sowing.
Nitrate of soda in small quantities is one of the best known
stimulants. Rotted stable manure is good, but hog manure and night
soil are not in favor among radish growers, tending to produce insect
attacks. The free use of lime, salt or kainit is recommended as a
preventive against insects. Sometimes it is necessary to avoid manure
of any kind, on account of maggots, depending wholly on artificial
fertilizers. As a last resort the radish-bed must be removed to new
ground, as the maggot renders radishes wholly unsalable.

[Illustration: China Rose Winter Radish.]

The green seed pods of radishes are sometimes used for pickling. The
plant is closely related to the mustard.

It is wrong to wait for radishes to grow large (except the winter
sorts), as they are sweetest and most succulent when comparatively
small. Crisp, sweet radishes always command ready money.

     RADISH.--Early, for the South--Scarlet Turnip White Tipped,
     Johnson & Stokes' Olive Scarlet, Philadelphia Gardeners' Long
     Scarlet. Summer radishes--Red and White Chartier, White
     Strasburg, Improved Yellow Summer Turnip. All seasons, radishes
     which are equally good for summer or winter--New Celestial, New
     Round Scarlet China. For winter use only--China Rose. For
     descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


SPINACH.

Spinach (or spinage) is grown for its leaves, which are cooked in
winter and spring for use as "greens." The leaf is sweet and palatable
even when raw, but it is always stewed for table purposes. It is a
cool weather plant, almost perfectly hardy. It may be sown in spring,
for immediate use, or in the autumn for fall cutting, or for carrying
over winter.

[Illustration: Plants and Roots of Parisian Long Standing Spinach.]

It is of the easiest culture, requiring ten or twelve pounds of seed
per acre, either broadcasted or sown in rows. In small gardens it is
usually grown in rows, but in open field culture it is more commonly
broadcasted. Patches of many acres in extent are seen near the large
cities. It is also grown quite extensively in some parts of the South
for shipment to Northern markets during January and February.

To prepare it for market the leaves are cut before the seed stalk
appears, and after washing are barrelled or crated for shipment.
Growers receive from $1.50 to $2.50 per barrel in Philadelphia and New
York in the winter and spring. Where accessible to market, spinach is
a profitable crop.

Blight is the main enemy. The remedy is removal to another soil.

Of spinach there are many types; some smooth and some with savoy or
wrinkled leaves. The property of standing a long time before going to
seed is desirable, especially when sown in the spring, as it increases
the length of the cutting season.

At the North a slight protection of litter or straw is necessary in
winter. South of latitude of Washington no protection is needed.
Spinach is cut even when frozen; in fact, at any time when there is no
snow on the ground. By throwing it into cold water it quickly thaws,
and affords a palatable and healthful food in midwinter. The dead or
yellow leaves should be removed before sending it to market, and if
carefully prepared it has an attractive green appearance during cold
weather when other vegetables are scarce. The winter crop is larger
than any other, but much is also grown for spring sales. It is
admirably adapted to farm culture.

     SPINACH.--For spring planting, we recommend Parisian Long
     Standing; for autumn, American Savoy or Bloomsdale. See "Johnson
     & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."


THE SWEET POTATO.

The cultivation of the sweet potato affords profitable employment to
thousands of American farmers. It is pre-eminently a farmer's crop, on
account of the ground space occupied. It demands a light or sandy
soil, well drained and well manured. It has wonderful drouth-resisting
qualities; though, on the other hand, it is quite unable to withstand
continued cold, wet weather. Its territorial range may be said to
include nearly the whole of the United States, where the soil is
suited to its growth, and it is even cultivated in Canada. It will in
all probability increase in favor as it is better known and the manner
of preserving or storing it is better understood.

     SWEET POTATO.--We recommend and endorse the Hardy Bush or
     Vineless Sweet Potato. For description, see "Johnson & Stokes'
     Garden and Farm Manual."

=Fertilizers.=--There is wide diversity of practice in the matter of
enriching the land for sweet potatoes, and most of the standard
manures are used, either in one place or another. There seems to be an
almost universal endorsement of well-rotted stable manure, and next in
favor is wood ashes. High-grade fertilizer of any kind, thoroughly
incorporated with the soil, may be used.

=Young Plants.=--Sweet potatoes are propagated by sprouts obtained by
laying tubers on their sides, not touching each other, covered with
soil, in specially prepared heated beds. These sprouts produce
abundant rootlets while still attached to the parent tuber, and by
pulling them with care, great numbers of young plants can be obtained.
A second and even a third crop of young plants may be pulled from the
same tubers. In the South no artificial heat is needed.

=Growing the Slips or Sprouts as Practised in New Jersey.=--The
fire-bed, so-called, is quite generally used in Southern New Jersey
for obtaining slips or sprouts for spring planting. It is necessary to
have bottom heat and a uniform temperature of about 70 deg..

[Illustration: Plant of New Hardy Bush or Vineless Sweet Potato.]

The fire-bed consists essentially of a pit about 15 by 50 feet in
size. It is floored with boards laid upon cross pieces. Beneath the
boards there is an air chamber. On top of the boards the bed is made.
At one end is a furnace, with flues running out into the air space
beneath the bed, but not reaching the chimney or smoke-pipe at the
opposite end of the bed. At the hottest end of the bed the soil is
over 6 inches deep. At the cool end a depth of 6 inches is quite
sufficient. The whole bed is covered either with canvas muslin or with
glass sashes, there being a ridge pole above the bed, running
lengthwise with it, thus giving a double pitch to muslin or to glass.

After the soil has been heated somewhat, the tubers are laid on the
bed, about an inch apart, and covered with about 3 inches of good
soil, and the soil, in turn, covered with leaves or hay, to increase
the warmth of the bed. In a week, more or less, the sprouts will show
above the surface of the soil, when the leaves or hay must be removed.

The object in not connecting the flues from the furnace with the chimney
is to economize heat. The air chamber under the entire bed becomes
evenly heated, and the smoke escapes finally by the chimney. This
chimney may be made of wood, and a height of 8 or 10 feet will afford
ample draft. Either wood or coal may be burned, but preferably wood.

The planting distance in the field is about 3 feet by 2, the young
plants being set upon ridges. It requires about 9,000 plants to the
acre. The work must not be done until the ground is warm. The crop is
ready in from sixty to ninety days.

=Cultivation.=--Shallow cultivation is all that is required. The vines
at the North are not permitted to take root along their length, but in
the South they are sometimes allowed to do so, and additional tubers
thus secured. At the North the vines are lifted and turned, to clear
the way for the cultivator and to prevent rooting.

=Enemies.=--Black rot is one of the worst of sweet potato diseases.
Stem rot is another serious enemy. The best treatment for these and
other fungous troubles is prevention, and the best prevention is a
healthy soil. It is, therefore, best to go to new land occasionally.

=Harvesting.=--The common practice is to plow the sweet potatoes out
of the ground just after the first frost has touched the vines. The
tubers must be exposed to the air for a time, and partially dried.
They are prepared for market, if wanted immediately, by rubbing off
the soil and sorting into two sizes.

=Storage.=--At the South one of the several methods of winter storage
is to build a light wooden flue of lattice work, and pack about it a
conical-shaped heap containing about forty or fifty bushels of sweet
potatoes. Straw is used as a covering, with earth upon the straw, the
earth to be increased as the weather becomes colder. Over the entire
heap a rough shed is erected to turn the rain. The top of the flue or
ventilator is closed with straw in really cold weather. The spot must
be a dry one.

The New Jersey sweet potato house is a stone building, say 16 x 18
feet on the inside, with walls 10 feet high, and a good roof. The
building is half under ground, and the earth is banked up around it.
There is a passage way through the centre, and the bins for the sweet
potatoes are 6 to 8 feet square and 8 to 10 feet deep. There is a door
on the south side, with window above, and a stove is placed inside the
building, for use when required. The walls are plastered, and the
under side of the roof is also covered with lath and plaster, and the
place is thoroughly weather-proof. A house of this kind will afford
storage room for 3,000 or more bushels of sweet potatoes, and will
keep them in excellent condition, if all details receive proper
attention. The requirements for successful storage are that the tubers
shall not be too hot, nor too cold, nor too wet, and that sudden
changes of temperature shall be avoided. The sweet potato crop may be
said to vary from 100 to 150 bushels per acre, under ordinary
management, with higher results under good conditions.




CHAPTER V.

SASHES AND BEDDING PLANTS.


[Illustration]

The cost of a hot-bed sash, glazed and painted, is somewhere about $2;
and such a sash can be made to earn its cost every year. The farmer
who has, say, a pair of sashes for hot-bed work and another pair for
cold-frame work, can turn them to very good account in the early
spring, not only in starting such bedding plants as may be required in
his own operations, but in producing plants for his neighbors. It
costs but little more to grow 1,000 than 100 cabbage, tomato or egg
plants, and the surplus above the home requirement can be converted
into dollars.

=The Hot Bed.=--The hot-bed is merely a board-lined pit, containing
fermenting manure, with a few inches of soil on the manure, and
covered by a sash. The ordinary sash is about 3 x 6 feet. A board
shutter, the exact size of the sash, or a mat of straw, completes the
outfit. The depth of manure, depending on the purpose in view, should
be from 1 to 2 feet, the depth of soil from 3 to 6 inches, and the
distance from soil to glass about 4 inches at the start. As the manure
ferments the soil will sink.

=The Cold Frame.=--The cold frame is merely a piece of rich, mellow
soil, enclosed by boards and covered with glass. There is no bottom
heat of any kind, but it is a great deal warmer than the open soil,
and serves a variety of purposes.

In the hot-bed, made in February or March (in the latitude of
Philadelphia), all tender things may be started. The usual seeds sown
here at that date on heat are cabbage, cauliflower, radish, lettuce,
onions, etc., followed by tomato, pepper, celery, egg plant, etc.,
including flower seeds, if desired.

The cold frame is used through the winter for lettuce, onions,
carrots, corn salad, spinach, etc., and in spring for the reception of
the things started on heat, when the time arrives for transplanting
and hardening them.

Properly-managed sashes will do a great deal toward the production of
early market crops, and profits not infrequently depend upon the item
of earliness.

The one thing for inexperienced persons to learn about sashes and
their uses is the imperative necessity of free ventilation whenever
the sun shines on the glass.




CHAPTER VI.

THE STRAWBERRY.


In addition to the several vegetables enumerated in the preceding
pages, there is one of the small fruits that has taken such a
prominent place in what may be termed farm horticulture as to deserve
mention here. It is the strawberry.

This berry is, perhaps, the most popular small fruit in America, and
because of its perishable character, is one that requires strictly
local production. It cannot be shipped long distances without loss of
character and flavor, and hence the local grower will never be crowded
out of his own market.

The culture of the strawberry is simple and easy. There are many ways
of setting out plants, and the after-treatment also differs widely.
There will always be controversy concerning the respective merits of
the hill system and the matted row system. Each cultivator must decide
for himself which is the better.

For the farmer, whose acres are many and whose duties are pressing,
there is, perhaps, no better way than to set strawberries in rows 4
feet apart, with plants 2 feet apart in the row, and to allow the
plants to run together in the rows, giving sufficient attention to
keep the alleys well stirred and the whole bed clear of weeds. To set
an acre will require about 5,000 plants.

The winter covering of litter should be raked into the walks or alleys
as soon as winter is over and allowed to remain there as a mulch for
keeping the soil cool and damp and for the purpose of keeping the
berries clean.

[Illustration: New Twice-Bearing French Strawberry "Mammoth Perpetual."
For Description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."]

As soon as the crop is off, the bed should be plowed, turning
strawberries and litter under, and sweet corn or other quick crop at
once planted. This will insure the gathering of two crops in two
years; otherwise a strawberry crop means a two-years' use of the soil.

The setting out of a new strawberry bed every spring is good practice;
and it is altogether advisable for farmers to occasionally introduce
new varieties of strawberries on their farms, to replace old or
enfeebled sorts.

The profits of strawberry culture are quite large, the gross receipts
not infrequently running to $250 per acre. New boxes and crates are
advisable, and are distinctly profitable.




INDEX.


                                             Page.

    Asparagus                                   27


    Bacteria                                15, 19

    Barnyard manure                             10

    Beans                                       33

    Bedding plants                             119

    Beets                                       39

    Bordeaux mixture                            63

    Borecole                                    91


    Cabbage                                     42

    Cantaloupe                                  97

    Carrot                                      49

    Celery                                      75

    Citron                                      97

    Cold frame                                 120

    Crimson clover                              20

    Corn worm                                   55

    Corrosive sublimate                         64

    Cucumber                                    85


    Egg plant                                   88


    Glass                                      119

    Green manuring                      19, 21, 22


    Horseradish                                 56

    Hot bed                                    119

    Humus                                       14


    Irrigation                     17, 18, 62, 125


    Kale                                        91

    Kerosene emulsion                           97


    Legumes                                     19

    Lettuce                                     92

    Lime                                         9

    Location, choice of                         24


    Marketing                                   24

    Manure, storage                             11

    Manure, value of                        13, 19

    Melon louse                                 97

    Melons                                      94

    Mushrooms                                   99

    Muskmelons                                  97


    Onions                                     101

    Oyster plant                                58


    Parsnip                                     57

    Peas                                       108

    Potato                                      59

    Potato blight                               63

    Potato scab                                 63

    Potato rot                                  63

    Preservatives of manure                     12

    Pumpkin                                     65


    Radish                                     110

    Rhubarb                                    110

    Ruta baga                                   72


    Salsify                                     58

    Salt                                        31

    Sashes                                     119

    Soil inoculation                            36

    Spinach                                    112

    Squash                                      65

    Strawberry                                 121

    Swedes                                      72

    Sweet potato                               114


    Tomatoes                                    66

    Turnip                                      71


    Waste products                              17

    Water cress                                 84

    Whale-oil soap                              97

    Wood ashes                                  17




    =Everybody Should Read our New Book=

    =IRRIGATION
    BY CHEAP MODERN METHODS=

    =Double the Crops--Water will do it.
    Strictly up-to-date. Fully Illustrated.=

    =Tells you just what you want to know in just the way
    you want to be told.=

There is something here for every farmer and gardener. That thing is a
sufficient water-supply. Irrigation makes deserts to rejoice and
gardens to blossom. Nature often withholds needed moisture at critical
times. Millions of dollars are lost annually through the uncertainties
of the weather. After reading this work you will be surprised at the
cheapness and practicability of irrigation, which will double the
production at an expense of from $10 to $1,000, just according to what
you want to spend, while it reduces soil culture to an exact science
and enables the tiller of the soil to work on schedule time.

For terms on which this book can be had, see our "Garden and Farm
Manual," which is sent free to all who write for it.

Compiled and published by

    =JOHNSON & STOKES=
    =..SEED GROWERS AND MERCHANTS..=
    =217 and 219 Market Street   Philadelphia, Pa.=

[Illustration: The Largest Seed Warehouse in the East

Nos. 217 and 219 Market Street, Philadelphia, Pa.]




Floracroft Seed Gardens and Trial Grounds


In order to get the best results from our efforts, and make sure that
customers shall receive from us the best seeds that the world
produces, we have for many years maintained and carried on extensive
trials at our Floracroft Seed Gardens and Trial Grounds, located about
nine miles from our city warehouses. All operations are under the
personal direction and management of one of our firm, who resides
there. Here are planted each season, for thorough trial, samples of
all "Novelties" offered by other seedsmen both in this country and
Europe, as well as anything which may be sent us, claimed to be new
and superior, by our amateur or market garden customers. By this means
we are enabled to satisfy ourselves of the true character and value of
any novelty before it can find a place in our catalogue.

Many acres are also devoted to the production of pedigree stock seed,
from which the seeds we offer are grown. We plant the best seeds
obtainable; then go over the crop, plant by plant, carefully
"rogueing" and destroying the inferior and selecting and saving only
the best. This stock seed from selected plants is sent to be grown on
our farms in localities where the conditions of soil and climate are
best adapted to the perfect development of the particular variety. It
is the product of such stock seed only that we offer for sale.

Here are also located our Seed Testing Houses, where a sample of every
lot of seed, whether grown by ourselves or grown for us under contract,
is thoroughly tested, in mother earth, for vitality and purity of stock,
and only those of satisfactory quality and germinating power are sold.
In fact, we leave no stone unturned to gain and hold the confidence of
all customers and secure them from disappointment.

    =JOHNSON & STOKES=
    =..SEEDSMEN..=
    =217 and 219 Market Street,   Philadelphia, Pa.=




[Illustration]

     That grow into dollars for the professional market gardener will
     also grow the choicest vegetables and flowers in the Home Garden.

    =Our Garden and Farm Manual
    Tells All About Them=

     _It is Sent Free to Seed Buyers_

    =Johnson & Stokes
    217 and 219 Market Street
    PHILADELPHIA, PA=.




Transcriber's Note


    * Obvious punctuation and spelling errors repaired.

    * Footnote moved to the end of the appropriate paragraph.

    * Notes moved to the end of the appropriate section.

    * Text enclosed between equal signs was in bold face in the
      original (=bold=).





End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Farm Gardening with Hints on Cheap
Manuring, by Anonymous

*** 