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Transcriber's Note:

When italics were used in the original book, the corresponding text has
been surrounded by _underscores_. Superscripted characters have been
preceded by ^ and surrounded by {} when more than one character is
superscripted. Some corrections have been made to the original. These
are detailed in a second transcriber's note at the end of the document.

[Illustration:

  _Capt^n. JONATHAN CARVER._

  _From the_ Original Picture _in the possession of J.C. Lettsom M.D._

  _Published as the Act directs, by R. Stewart, N^o. 287, near G^t.
    Turnstile, Holborn Nov^r. 16, 1780._
]




                                TRAVELS

                              THROUGH THE

                             INTERIOR PARTS

                                   OF

                             NORTH AMERICA,

                                 IN THE

                      YEARS 1766, 1767, and 1768.

                           BY J. CARVER, ESQ.

                   CAPTAIN OF A COMPANY OF PROVINCIAL
                         TROOPS DURING THE LATE
                            WAR WITH FRANCE.


                    ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES,
                               .


                           THE THIRD EDITION.

                 To which is added, SOME ACCOUNT OF THE
                      AUTHOR, AND A COPIOUS INDEX.


                                LONDON:

Printed for C. DILLY, in the Poultry; H. PAYNE, in Pall-mall; and J.
  PHILLIPS, in George-Yard, Lombard-Street.

                               MDCCLXXXI.




                             ADVERTISEMENT.


FEW works have had a more rapid sale than the following; two large
editions having been disposed of in two years. This induced the
proprietors to print a third: but, as soon as this impression was
finished, I purchased both the printed copies and the copy-right.

I have since added to the work, some Account of the Author’s life, and
an Index to the Travels, which are published separately, for the
convenience of the purchasers of the first and second editions; on whom,
I was unwilling to raise an extraordinary tax for the third edition.

                                                   JOHN COAKLEY LETTSOM.

London, March 30, 1781.




                                   TO

                           JOSEPH BANKS, Esq;

                               PRESIDENT

                                 OF THE

                             ROYAL SOCIETY.


SIR,

WHEN the Public are informed that I have long had the Honour of your
Acquaintance——that my Design in publishing the following Work has
received your Sanction——that the Composition of it has stood the Test of
your Judgment——and that it is by your Permission a Name so deservedly
eminent in the Literary World is prefixed to it, I need not be
apprehensive of its Success; as your Patronage will unquestionably give
them Assurance of its Merit.


For this public Testimony of your Favour, in which I pride myself,
accept, Sir, my most grateful Acknowledgments; and believe me to be,
with great Respect,

                                                  Your obedient

                                                  humble Servant,

                                                  J. CARVER.




                                   AN

                                ADDRESS

                                 TO THE

                                PUBLIC.

                          THE SECOND EDITION.

_The favourable reception this Work has met with, claims the Author’s
most grateful acknowledgments. A large edition having run off in a few
months, and the sale appearing to be still unabated, a new impression is
become necessary. On this occasion was he to conceal his feelings, and
pass over, in silence, a distinction so beneficial and flattering, he
would justly incur the imputation of ingratitude. That he might not do
this, he takes the opportunity, which now presents itself, of conveying
to the Public (though in terms inadequate to the warm emotions of his
heart) the sense he entertains of their favour; and thus transmits to
them his thanks._

_In this new edition, care has been taken to rectify those errors which
have unavoidably proceeded from the hurry of the press, and likewise any
incorrectness in the language that has found its way into it._

_The credibility of some of the incidents related in the following
pages, and some of the stories introduced therein, having been
questioned, particularly the prognostication of the Indian priest on the
banks of Lake Superior, and the story of the Indian and his rattle
snake, the author thinks it necessary to avail himself of the same
opportunity, to endeavour to eradicate any impressions that might have
been made on the minds of his readers, by the apparent improbability of
these relations._

_As to the former, he has related it just as it happened. Being an
eye-witness to the whole transaction (and, he flatters himself, at the
time, free from every trace of sceptical obstinacy or enthusiastic
credulity) he was consequently able to describe every circumstance
minutely and impartially. This he has done; but without endeavouring to
account for the means by which it was accomplished. Whether the
prediction was the result of prior observations, from which certain
consequences were expected to follow by the sagacious priest, and the
completion of it merely accidental; or whether he was really endowed
with supernatural powers, the narrator left to the judgment of his
readers; whose conclusions, he supposes, varied according as the mental
faculties of each were disposed to admit or reject facts that cannot be
accounted for by natural causes._

_The story of the rattle snake was related to him by a French gentleman
of undoubted veracity; and were the readers of this work as thoroughly
acquainted with the sagacity and instinctive proceedings of that animal,
as he is, they would be as well assured of the truth of it. It is well
known, that those snakes which have survived through the summer the
accidents reptiles are liable to, periodically retire to the woods, at
the approach of winter; where each (as curious observers have remarked)
takes possession of the cavity it had occupied the preceding year. As
soon as the season is propitious, enlivened by the invigorating rays of
the sun, they leave these retreats, and make their way to the same spot,
though ever so distant, on which they before had found subsistence, and
the means of propagating their species. Does it then require any
extraordinary exertions of the mind to believe, that one of these
regular creatures, after having been kindly treated by its master,
should return to the box, in which it had usually been supplied with
food, and had met with a comfortable abode, and that nearly about the
time the Indian, from former experiments, was able to guess at? It
certainly does not; nor will the liberal and ingenuous doubt the truth
of a story so well authenticated, because the circumstances appear
extraordinary in a country where the subject of it is scarcely known._

_These explanations the author hopes will suffice to convince his
readers, that he has not, as travellers are sometimes supposed to do,
amused them with improbable tales, or wished to acquire importance by
making his adventures savour of the marvellous._




                                  SOME

                                ACCOUNT

                                   OF

                           CAPTAIN J. CARVER.


THERE is a disposition peculiar to every mind, that early predominates,
and continues its influence through every period of life. Many
circumstances may, indeed, obscure or divert its progress; but on all
interesting occasions this constitutional bias will recur, and exhibit
the natural character and genius of the individual.

Jonathan Carver, the author of the following work, was grandson of
William Joseph Carver, of Wigan, in Lancashire, who was a captain in the
army under king William, and served in Ireland with such distinguished
reputation, that that prince was pleased to reward him with the
government of Connecticut in New-England, which appears to have been the
first appointment to that station by the crown.

Our author was born, anno 1732, at Stillwater, in the province of
Connecticut, since rendered famous by the surrender of the army under
General Burgoyne; his father, who resided at this place, and acted as a
justice of the peace, died, when he was only fifteen years of age. He
had received the rudiments of as liberal an education as could be
procured in that neighbourhood, and, being designed for the practice of
medicine, he was soon after his father’s death placed with a gentleman
of that profession in Elizabeth Town, in the same province. A profession
that requires not only a close and regular attention, but likewise a
steady perseverance, was not suited to that spirit of bold enterprize
and adventure, which seemed to be the ruling passion of our author, who,
at the age of eighteen, purchased an ensigncy in the Connecticut
regiment, in which, as I have been informed, he acquired so much
reputation, as to obtain the command of a company. Of this event,
however, I have not found the least mention among his papers, nor,
indeed, of any other important circumstance of his life till the year
1757, when he was in the army under General Webb, and fortunately
escaped the dreadful massacre at Fort William Henry, where nearly 1500
brave troops were destroyed in cold blood by the Indians in the French
army of General Montcalm.

In the ensuing year, 1758, a battalion of light infantry, commanded by
Colonel Oliver Partridge, was raised in the province of Massachusets
Bay, by order of Governor Pownall, for the purpose of invading Canada,
in which our author served as second lieutenant of Captain Hawks’s
company; and in 1760 he was advanced to be captain of a company in
Colonel Whetcomb’s regiment of foot, during the administration of
Governor Hutchinson. In Governor Barnard’s time, in 1762, Captain Carver
commanded a company of foot in Colonel Saltonstall’s regiment.

I have not been able to collect any anecdotes of our author, during his
military services; but from the written recommendations in my hands, of
persons high in office, under whom he acted, he appears to have
acquitted himself with great reputation, and much to the satisfaction of
his superior officers. These recommendations are not confined to
military conduct merely; they uniformly introduce him as a person of
piety, and of a good moral character. Throughout the narrative of his
travels, indeed, an animated regard to the duties of religion is
evidently prevalent, which must procure a credibility to the facts he
mentions, that might otherwise be suspended. If authors, who have
visited countries unknown to their contemporaries, had always been
actuated by a sacred regard to truth and moral rectitude, history in
general would have been developed with just and convincing relations,
and not left involved in doubt and obscurity.

This firm integrity and undaunted courage appeared evident upon every
interesting occasion: they were, indeed, essentially requisite to
conduct him through the most dangerous enterprizes with a perseverance
that is more generally the offspring of true fortitude, than of daring
boldness or impetuosity of imagination.

With so many favourable requisites for success and advancement,
descended from parents respectable for their military and civil dignity,
as well as for their fortune; endued with courage, sagacity, and a
spirit of enterprize, rarely united in one individual, it might be an
object of enquiry, why Captain Carver, whose conduct was so excellent,
in a moral as well as in a military view, should never have been
promoted above the command of a company.

It is a truth confirmed by history, that true fortitude is the genuine
offspring of an humble mind. Whatever we acquire by industry and labour,
we are apt highly to estimate; it is a kind of new creation of our own;
and a persuasion of this, inspires ambition, and even a forward ardour
for distinction; and what a partial imagination magnifies to ourselves,
we naturally magnify to others, and gradually acquire a consequence, and
reap rewards adequate, if not superior, to desert: but the naturally
brave is naturally modest; what is innate, does not present itself to
the imagination as its own; it neither begets vanity, nor excites
ambition; and thus great endowments, which might have been cherished,
and turned to the most important advantages, are frequently neglected,
and lost to society. Whatever natural or acquired excellencies were
possessed by Captain Carver, not only seemed unnoticed by himself, but
were accompanied by a diffidence, which in some instances was
extraordinary indeed; and the reader must be convinced of this, when he
is informed, that Captain Carver died, through want, with three
commissions in his pocket.

The year after his commission under Colonel Saltonstall was signed, the
peace of Versailles took place, namely, anno 1763, when our author,
having discharged his military obligations to his country, retired from
the army. But his natural turn for enterprize, and the pursuit of
novelty, did not suffer him to enjoy a life of useless ease; he began to
consider, to use his own sentiments (having rendered his country some
services during the war) how he might continue still serviceable, and
contribute, as much as lay in his power, to make that vast acquisition
of territory, gained by Great Britain in North America, advantageous to
it; and here he commences his own biographer, continuing his relation in
the following history of his travels, till his visit to England in the
year 1769.

Though I have not been able to procure many additional anecdotes of this
ingenious traveller, yet a respect to his memory, and a sense of his
services to the nation at large, excited a desire to bring together a
few outlines of his character, and probably at some future period, when
the present unhappy contest between this kingdom and the American
colonies shall have subsided, particulars of more importance than I have
been able to meet with, may be procured from that part of the world,
which he has taken so much useful labour to describe.

This barrenness of materials is, however, in some degree compensated by
the important relations he has communicated in the succeeding pages,
which not only regard himself, but likewise a part of the great American
continent, hitherto almost unknown to the inhabitants of Europe, and
even to those of the cultivated parts of the same continent.

In his descriptions of these vast regions, he seems to have embraced
every opportunity of pointing out the advantages which might be derived
in a commercial view, from a just knowledge of them, and of the policy
of the various tribes who possess them. In his picturesque view of the
scenery round Lake Pepin, his imagination, animated as it was by the
magnitude, the novelty, and grandeur of the objects, is not so far
transported, as to interrupt the most scrupulous attention to the
situation, as improveable for commercial and national advantages.

In the midst of a new and rich creation, he suggested the probability of
rendering this lake, and its variegated environs, the center of immense
traffick, with a people whose names and tribes were scarcely known to
the commercial parts of either side of the British empire, but whose
dispositions and pursuits seemed calculated to promote and secure this
interesting and national benefit.

The lake, which is about twenty miles in length, and six in breadth, and
through which the Mississippi directs its course, is about two thousand
miles from the entrance into the gulf of Mexico, and as many westerly
from Quebec, Boston, and New-York; it is situated between 42 and 43
degrees of north latitude. The plains in its vicinity are extensive, and
fit for immediate cultivation: elk, deer, and other quadrupeds,
including the beaver, otter, mink, martin, sable, musk-rat, and the
largest buffaloes in America, are the inhabitants of this region, whilst
various species of wild fowl frequent the lake, whose waters are stored
with fish in great abundance; vegetation is luxuriant in the meadows,
where the maple is indigenous, of whose sap the Indians make great
quantities of sugar, capable of fermentation, and of producing spirit;
the grapes hang in such clusters, that almost any quantity of brandy
might, under a like process, be distilled from them; rice, a grain
adapted to many useful purposes of life, is also very plentiful.

The number of hunting Indians, who frequent Lake Pepin, is not less than
2000, each of whom brings about one hundred pounds weight of beaver to
barter, which, at the lowest price, in the London market, is five
shillings a pound; hence a trade at this place will command annually
200000 crowns worth of furs, besides skins. But there is reason to
conclude, that when a general mart is established here, furnished with a
sufficient assortment of goods, and a supply of liquors, that there
would be a more general resort of traders.

The French, indeed, supported a trade at this lake, before the English
had made a conquest of the country; but they never attempted the
lucrative branch of distilling spirituous liquors upon the spot, though
they have been conveyed hither two thousand miles of difficult carriage,
and produced considerable profit.

It may be doubted in a moral, if not in a political view, whether such a
traffic of rendering the means of inebriation more easily attainable,
should meet with the encouragement of the legislature. Captain Carver,
however, computed that 2000 gallons of brandy could be made on the spot,
as cheap as in the West-Indies; and that by avoiding the expence of 3000
miles carriage also, the traders would make a saving of 2000 per cent.
besides duties and various contingencies: and as, by a moderate
computation, every gallon of spirits will produce there what will amount
to ten pounds in the London market, it must eventually prove a most
lucrative branch of trade, if pursued with proper caution and policy.

The great plenty of the edible necessaries of life, will afford a cheap,
easy, and salutary supply; and the goodness of the soil, with very
little labour, will render provisions still more easily attainable, and
altogether form a place of traffic hitherto unequalled.

From Captain Carver’s long residence in the neighbourhood of Lake Pepin,
among the Naudowissie and Chipéway Indians, he acquired a knowledge of
their languages, and an intimacy with many of their chiefs, which, with
his spirited and judicious conduct in acting as a mediator between these
two nations, conciliated their attachment and friendship; and as an
acknowledgment of their grateful sense of his happy interference, the
Naudowissies gave him a formal grant of a tract of land, lying on the
north side of Lake Pepin. The original, duly subscribed by two chiefs,
is in my possession; and as an Indian deed of conveyance may prove a
curiosity to many readers, I shall here insert a copy of it.

“To Jonathan Carver, a chief under the most mighty and potent George the
Third, King of the English and other nations, the fame of whose
courageous warriors have reached our ears, and has been more fully told
us by our good brother Jonathan aforesaid, whom we rejoice to see come
among us, and bring us good news from his country. We, chiefs of the
Naudowissies, who have hereto set our seals, do by these presents for
ourselves and heirs for ever, in return for the many presents, and other
good services done by the said Jonathan to ourselves and allies, give,
grant, and convey to him the said Jonathan, and to his heirs and assigns
for ever, the whole of a certain tract or territory of land, bounded as
follows: (viz.) from the fall of St. Anthony, running on the east banks
of the Mississippi, nearly south-east, as far as the south end of Lake
Pepin, where the Chipéway river joins the Mississippi, and from thence
eastward five days travel, accounting twenty English miles per day, and
from thence north six days travel, at twenty English miles per day, and
from thence again to the fall of St. Anthony, on a direct straight line.
We do for ourselves, heirs, and assigns, for ever, give unto the said
Jonathan, his heirs and assigns, for ever, all the said lands, with all
the trees, rocks, and rivers therein, reserving for ourselves and heirs
the sole liberty of hunting and fishing on land not planted or improved
by the said Jonathan, his heirs and assigns, to which we have affixed
our respective seals, at the great cave, May the first, one thousand
seven hundred and sixty-seven.”

[Illustration:

  Hawnopawjatin his mark (top)

  Otohtongoomlisheaw his mark (bottom)
]

Soon after the above period, our author concluded to return to Boston,
where he arrived in 1768, having been absent two years and five months,
during which time he had travelled about seven thousand miles. After
digesting his journal and charts, he sailed for England, and arrived
there in the year 1769. The reasons which induced him to undertake this
voyage, are amply related by himself in his travels (page 177.) to which
I refer.

Few objects have excited a more general enquiry than the discovery of a
north-west passage, in order to open a communication with the great
pacific ocean and the East Indies, by a shorter navigation than by
doubling those immense promontories, the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn.
Every allurement of gain, and national emolument, has been proposed to
encourage the attempt, but, hitherto, every attempt hath been fruitless,
though the most experienced seamen have engaged in the undertaking. Our
traveller suggested an attempt by land, across the north west parts of
North America, and actually drew a chart of his proposed route for
effecting his project, which, however visionary it may now be deemed,
affords at least a proof of the enterprizing spirit of Captain Carver,
and which he would, probably, have attempted, had any encouragement been
afforded him: (introd. pag. 6. and append. pag. 539, et seq.)

When he visited England, he appeared with the most favourable
credentials of his character in every respect: many of these are now in
my possession; but that which seemed to promise the most beneficial
advantages, was conferred upon him by General Gage, and, in consequence
of a petition presented to the king, and referred to the Lords
Commissioners of Trade and Plantations, our traveller had formed the
fond hope of seeing his labours so far rewarded, as to be reimbursed
those sums he had expended in the service of government, agreeable to
the relation conveyed in the introduction to his travels.

In a large, free, and widely extended government, where every motion
depends upon a variety of springs, the lesser and subordinate movements
must be acted upon by the greater, and consequently the more inferior
operations of state will be so distant, as not to be perceived in the
grand machine: whether Captain Carver’s disappointments resulted from
these principles, or that government did not estimate his services in
equal proportion to his own idea of them, is not so easily ascertained,
as that he thought himself not only neglected, but treated with
injustice.

The condition of a suppliant is what his mind must have submitted to
with reluctance. Men of superior endowments are liable to be jealous of
the least inattention, which they are apt to consider as an insult on
their distress. A feeling mind, like his, conscious of its dignity and
superior merit, might not be able to stoop to that importunity and
adulation, which are sometimes requisite to insure the smiles and
favours of those in power; otherwise it might naturally be suggested,
that his extensive acquaintance with America, and with the customs and
languages of the Indians, in the interior parts of that vast continent,
then the theatre of an unnatural and bloody contest, would have pointed
him out as a most useful instrument in the hands of government.

With the advantages, however, of an intimate knowledge of Indian
affairs, he united a determined loyalty to the king, and a fixed
attachment to his American countrymen; and thus the principle of acting
agreeably to the feelings of conscience, would equally operate upon him
respecting the contending parties. He had repeatedly risked his life in
the service of his prince, against whose government he was equally
averse from drawing his sword, as against his transatlantic brethren: he
might not, therefore, be deemed an important acquisition to the ruling
powers here, and the prayer of his petition was scarcely heard in the
clamours of popular commotion.

Persons of ingenuity, however oppressed by their own sufferings, in a
busy commercial country, may strike out some means of subsistence; but,
in a domestic state, where many depend upon the industry of an
individual, the difficulty of procuring support is not only rendered
more affecting to the feeling mind, but likewise greatly augmented.
Captain Carver, after having exhausted his fortune, had now a family to
support, without knowing how to turn his abilities to any means of
succouring them. Distress of mind begets debility of body, which is
still aggravated by penury, and a want of the common necessaries of
life. His constitution, naturally firm, gradually grew weaker and
weaker; but his regard to his family animated his spirit to exertions
beyond the strength of his body, which enabled him to preserve existence
through the winter of 1779, by acting as a clerk in a lottery-office;
but the vital powers, succoured as they were by this casual support,
diminished by certain, though imperceptible, degrees, till at length a
putrid fever supervening a long continued dysentery brought on by want,
put an end to the life of a man, who, after rendering, at the expence of
fortune and health, and the risk of life, many important services to his
country, perished through want in the first city of the world.

In size, Captain Carver was rather above the middle stature, and of a
firm muscular texture; his features expressed a firmness of mind and
boldness of resolution; and he retained a florid complexion to his
latest moments.

In conversation he was social and affable, where he was familiar; but
his extreme diffidence and modesty kept him in general reserved in
company. In his familiar epistles, he commanded an easy and agreeable
manner of writing; and some pieces of his poetry, which have been
communicated to me, afford proofs of his lively imagination and of the
harmony of his versification.

His only authentic publications I have seen are the present work, and a
Treatise on the Culture of the Tobacco Plant, anno 1779. The former will
speak for itself: the opinion of the public has, indeed, been fully
testified by the rapid sale of two large editions of this work in the
space of the last two years.

The Treatise on Tobacco is a small octavo of fifty-four pages,
containing two engravings of the plant, and an account of its
cultivation on the American continent. As this vegetable constitutes one
of the most considerable branches of commerce betwixt the old and new
hemispheres of the world, and thrives luxuriously in Europe as well as
in America, it is now pretty generally known: from the elegance of the
plant and beauty of its flowers, it is cultivated in gardens for
ornament; in which character it will appear from a view of the annexed
engraving of it.

It was first sent into Spain, in 1560: from Tabaco, a province of
Yucatan, by Hermandez de Toledo, and from the place of its growth it
received the name which it still bears.

[Illustration:

  _Drawn and Engrav’d for Carver’s Travels, as the act directs by F.
    Sanson N. 16 Maiden Lane Cheapside_

  The TOBACCO PLANT

  _Published Nov^r. 1^{st}. 1779_
]

It was called, by the French, Nicotiana, after John Nicot, who went soon
after it was discovered, as ambassador to that court, from Francis the
Second of Portugal, and carried some of it with him.

Before the present contest between Great-Britain and the Colonies, about
96,000 hogsheads were annually imported from Maryland and Virginia,
which, with the duties on the home consumption, and the returns on
foreign export, produced an immense revenue to this country.

The general uses of Tobacco are well known; besides which, it is found
nearly equal to the best oak-bark for tanning leather, especially with
thinner sorts of hides; and would probably be used for this purpose,
were it as cheap as the bark of the oak.

Few subjects have been more copiously treated on than Tobacco: Monardes,
Stephanus, Everhartus, Thorius, Neander, Pauli, have each wrote upon it
largely. Neander published a volume on this subject, entitled,
Tobacologia, and ornamented it with plates, to exhibit its cultivation
and manner of preparation; and, lately, Captain Carver published the
above-mentioned Treatise on the Culture of this Plant, with a view to
instruct landholders in the method of cultivating it with profit, and to
this pamphlet I shall refer the reader for further particulars.

Our author died on the 31st of January 1780, at the age of forty-eight
years, and lies interred in Holywell-Mount burying-ground.




                               CONTENTS.

 _INTRODUCTION_,                                                       i

 _The Author sets out from Boston on his Travels_,                    17

 _Description of Fort Michillimackinac_,                              18

 _Description of Fort Le Bay_,                                        21

 _Description of the Green Bay_,                                      26

 _Description of Lake Michigan_,                                      28

 _Arrives at the Town of the Winnebagoes_,                            32

 _Excursion of the Winnebagoes towards the Spanish
 Settlements_,                                                        35

 _Description of the Winnebago Lake_,                                 37

 _Instance of Resolution of an Indian Woman_,                         40

 _Description of the Fox River_,                                      41

 _Remarkable Story of a Rattle Snake_,                                43

 _The great Town of the Saukies_,                                     46

 _Upper Town of the Ottagaumies_,                                     48

 _Description of the Ouisconsin River_,                              ib.

 _Lower Town of the Ottagaumies, or La Prairie Le Chien_,             50

 _An Attack by some Indian Plunderers_,                               51

 _Description of the Mississippi from the Mouth of the
 Ouisconsin to Lake Pepin_,                                           54

 _Description of Lake Pepin_,                                         55

 _Remarkable Ruins of an ancient Fortification_,                      57

 _The River Bands of the Naudowessie Indians_,                        59

 _Adventure with a Party of these, and some of the Chipéways_,        60

 _Description of a remarkable Cave_,                                  63

 _Uncommon Behaviour of the Prince of the Winnebagoes at the
 Falls of St. Anthony_,                                               66

 _Description of the Falls_,                                          69

 _Extent of the Author’s Travels_,                                    71

 _Description of the River St. Pierre_,                               74

 _Sources of the Four great Rivers of North America_,                 76

 _Reflections on their Affinity_,                                     77

 _The Naudowessies of the Plains, with whom the Author
 wintered in the Year 1766_,                                          80

 _The Author returns to the Mouth of the River St. Pierre_,           84

 _Account of a violent Thunder-storm_,                                85

 _Speech made by the Author in a Council held by the
 Naudowessies at the great Cave_,                                     86

 _Adventure with a Party of Indians near Lake Pepin_,                 95

 _Description of the Country adjacent to the River St.
 Pierre_,                                                            100

 _Account of different Clays found near the Marble River_,           101

 _Description of the Chipéway River_,                                102

 _Extraordinary Effects of a Hurricane_,                             103

 _The Author arrives at the Grand Portage on the North-west
 Borders of Lake Superior_,                                          107

 _Account of the Lakes lying farther to the North-west: Lake
 Bourbon, Lake Winnepeek, Lake Du Bois, Lake La Pluye, Red
 Lake, &c._                                                          ib.

 _Account of a Nation of Indians supposed to have been
 tributary to the Mexican Kings_,                                    118

 _Account of the shining Mountains_,                                 121

 _A singular Prediction of the Chief Priest of the
 Killistinoes verified_,                                             123

 _Description of Lake Superior_,                                     132

 _Story of the two Chipéways landing on the Island of
 Mauropas_,                                                          135

 _Account of great Quantities of Copper Ore_,                        139

 _Description of the Falls of St. Marie_,                            142

 _Account of Lake Huron_,                                            144

 _Account of Saganaum and Thunder Bays_,                             145

 _Extraordinary Phænomenon in the Straights of
 Michillimackinac_,                                                  146

 _Description of Lake St. Claire_,                                   150

 _Description of the River, Town, and Fort of Detroit_,              153

 _Remarkable Rain at Detroit_,                                       153

 _Attack of Fort Detroit by Pontiac_,                                154

 _Description of Lake Erie_,                                         166

 _Description of the River and Falls of Niagara_,                    169

 _Description of Lake Ontario_,                                      170

 _Description of the Oniada Lake, Lake Champlain, and Lake
 George_,                                                            172

 _Account of a Tract of Land granted to Sir Ferdinando Gorges,
 and Captain John Mason_,                                            173

 _The Author’s Motives for undertaking his Travels_,                 177

                                CHAP. I.

 _The Origin of the Indians_,                                        181

 _Sentiments of various Writers on this Point_,                      182

 _Sentiments of Monsieur Charlevoix_,                                192

 _Sentiments of James Adair, Esq_;                                   202

 _Sentiments of the Author of this Work_,                            208

 _Corroboration of the latter by Doctor Robertson_                   216

                               CHAP. II.

 _Of the Persons, Dress, &c. of the Indians_,                        219

 _An Account of those who have written on this Subject_,             220

 _Description of the Persons of the Indians_,                        223

 _Description of their Dress_,                                       225

 _Description of the Dress of the Ottagaumies, with a Plate_,        229

 _Description of the Dress of the Naudowessies, with Ditto_,         230

 _The Manner in which they build their Tents and Huts_,              231

 _Their domestic Utensils_,                                          233

                               CHAP. III.

 _Of the Manners, Qualifications, &c. of the Indians_,               235

 _Peculiar Customs of the Women_,                                    236

 _The circumspect and stoical Disposition of the Men_,               237

 _Their amazing Sagacity_,                                           241

 _Remarkable Story of one of the Naudowessie Women_,                 245

 _The Liberality of the Indians, and their Opinion respecting
 Money_,                                                             247

                               CHAP. IV.

 _Their Method of reckoning Time, &c._                               250

 _The Names by which they distinguish the Months_,                   251

 _Their Idea of the Use of Figures_,                                 253

                                CHAP. V.

 _Of their Government, &c._                                          255

 _Their Division into Tribes_,                                       ib.

 _The Chiefs of their Bands_,                                        257

 _The Members that compose their Councils_,                          259

                               CHAP. VI.

 _Of their Feasts_,                                                  262

 _Their usual Food_,                                                 263

 _Their Manner of dressing and eating their Victuals_,               264


                               CHAP. VII.

 _Of their Dances_,                                                  266

 _The Manner in which they dance_,                                   267

 _The Pipe or Calumate Dance_,                                       268

 _The War Dance_,                                                    269

 _The Pawwaw Dance_,                                                 270

 _An uncommon Admission into a Society, among the
 Naudowessies_,                                                      272

 _The Dance of the Indians on the Banks of the Mississippi,
 referred to in the Journal_,                                        279

 _The Dance of the Sacrifice_,                                       282

                              CHAP. VIII.

 _Of their Hunting_,                                                 283

 _Their Preparation before they set out_,                            285

 _Their Manner of hunting the Bear_,                                 286

 _Their Manner of hunting the Buffalo, Deer, &c._                    287

 _Their Manner of hunting the Beaver_,                               289


                               CHAP. IX.

 _Of their Manner of making War, &c._                                293

 _The Indian Weapons, with a Plate_,                                 296

 _Their Motives of making War_,                                      297

 _Preparations before they take the Field_,                          301

 _The Manner in which they solicit other Nations to become
 their Auxiliaries_,                                                 305

 _Their Manner of declaring War_,                                    307

 _Their Method of engaging their Enemies_,                           310

 _An Instance of the Efficacy of it in the Defeat of General
 Braddock_,                                                          311

 _A Detail of the Massacre at Fort William-Henry in the Year
 1757_,                                                              313

 _Acuteness and Alacrity of the Indians in pursuing their
 Enemies_,                                                           327

 _Their Manner of Scalping_,                                         328

 _The Manner in which they retreat and carry off their
 Prisoners_,                                                         330

 _A remarkable Instance of Heroism in a Female Prisoner_,            332

 _Treatment of their Prisoners_,                                     335

 _The Origin of their selling Slaves_,                               346


                                CHAP. X.

 _Of their Manner of making Peace, &c._                              351

 _Account of an Engagement between the Iroquois and the
 Ottagaumies and Saukies_,                                           352

 _Manner in which they conduct a Treaty of Peace_,                   358

 _Description of the Pipe of Peace_,                                 359

 _Description of the Belts of Wampum_,                               362

                               CHAP. XI.

 _Of their Games_,                                                   363

 _The Game of the Ball_,                                             364

 _The Game of the Bowl or Platter_,                                  365

                               CHAP. XII.

 _Of their Marriage Ceremonies_,                                     367

 _The Manner in which the Tribes near Canada celebrate their
 Marriages_,                                                         369

 _The Form of Marriage among the Naudowessies_,                      373

 _Their Manner of carrying on an Intrigue_,                          375

 _Of the Indian Names_,                                              378


                              CHAP. XIII.

 _Of their Religion_,                                                380

 _Their Ideas of a Supreme Being_,                                   381

 _Their Ideas of a future State_,                                    383

 _Of their Priests_,                                                 384

 _The Sentiments of Others on the religious Principles of the
 Indians opposed_,                                                   386

                               CHAP. XIV.

 _Of their Diseases, &c._                                            389

 _The Complaints to which they are chiefly subject_,                 ib.

 _The Manner in which they construct their Sweating Stoves_,         390

 _The Methods in which they treat their Diseases_,                   391

 _An extraordinary Instance of the Judgment of an Indian Woman
 in a desperate Case_,                                               395

                               CHAP. XV.

 _The Manner in which they treat their Dead_,                        398

 _A Specimen of their Funeral Harangues_,                            399

 _Their Method of burying the Dead_,                                 401

 _A singular Instance of parental Affection in a Naudowessie
 Woman_,                                                             403

                               CHAP. XVI.

 _A concise Character of the Indians_,                               408

 _Their personal and mental Qualifications_,                         409

 _Their public Character as Members of a Community_,                 411

                              CHAP. XVII.

 _Of their Language, Hieroglyphicks, &c._                            414

 _Of the Chipéway Tongue_,                                           416

 _Descriptive Specimen of their Hieroglyphicks_,                     417

 _Vocabulary of the Chipéway Language_,                              420

 _Vocabulary of the Naudowessie Language_,                           433

                              CHAP. XVIII.

 _Of the Beasts, Birds, Fishes, Reptiles, and Insects, which
 are found in the Interior Parts of North America_,                  441


                               _BEASTS._

 _The Tyger. The Bear_,                                              442

 _The Wolf. The Fox_,                                                444

 _Dogs. The Cat of the Mountain. The Buffalo_,                       445

 _The Deer_,                                                         446

 _The Elk_,                                                          447

 _The Moose_,                                                        448

 _The Carrabou_,                                                     449

 _The Carcajou. The Skunk_,                                          450

 _The Porcupine_,                                                    453

 _The Woodchuck. The Racoon_,                                        454

 _The Martin. The Musquash_,                                         455

 _Squirrels_,                                                        456

 _The Beaver_,                                                       457

 _The Otter_,                                                        464

 _The Mink_,                                                         465

                                _BIRDS._

 _The Eagle. The Night Hawk_,                                        466

 _The Fish Hawk_,                                                    467

 _The Whipperwill_,                                                  468

 _The Owl. The Crane. Ducks_,                                        469

 _The Teal. The Loon_,                                               470

 _The Partridge. The Woodpecker. The Wood Pigeon_,                   471

 _The Blue Jay. The Wakon Bird_,                                     472

 _The Blackbird_,                                                    473

 _The Redbird_,                                                      474

 _The Whetsaw. The King Bird. The Humming Bird_,                     475

                               _FISHES._

 _The Sturgeon_,                                                     477

 _The Cat Fish. The Carp. The Chub_,                                 478

                              _SERPENTS._

 _The Rattle Snake_,                                                 479

 _The Long Black Snake_,                                             485

 _The Striped or Garter Snake. The Water Snake. The Hissing
 Snake. The Green Snake. The Thorn-tail Snake_,                      486

 _The Speckled Snake. The Ring Snake. The Two-headed Snake_,         487

 _The Tortoise or Land Turtle_,                                      488

                               _LIZARDS._

 _The Swift Lizard. The Slow Lizard. The Tree Toad_,            488, 489


                               _INSECTS._

 _The Silk Worm_,                                                    490

 _The Tobacco Worm. The Bee. The Lightning Bug or Fire Fly_,         491

 _The Water Bug. The Horned Bug. The Locust_,                        493

                               CHAP. XIX.

 _Of the Trees, Shrubs, Roots, Herbs, Flowers_,                      494

                                _TREES._

 _The Oak_,                                                          495

 _The Pine Tree. The Maple_,                                         496

 _The Ash_,                                                          497

 _The Hemlock Tree_,                                                 498

 _The Bass or White Wood. The Wickopick or Suckwick. The
 Button Wood_,                                                       499

                              _NUT TREES._

 _The Butter or Oil Nut_,                                            500

 _The Beech Nut. The Pecan Nut_,                                     501

 _The Hickory_,                                                      502

                             _FRUIT TREES._

 _The Vine. The Mulberry Tree. The Crab Apple Tree. The Plum
 Tree_,                                                              503

 _The Cherry Tree_,                                                  504

 _The Sweet Gum Tree_,                                               505


                               _SHRUBS._

 _The Willow. Shin Wood_,                                            506

 _The Sassafras. The Prickly Ash_,                                   507

 _The Moose Wood. The Spoon Wood. The Elder_,                        508

 _The Shrub Oak. The Witch Hazle_,                                   509

 _The Myrtle Wax Tree. Winter Green_,                                510

 _The Fever Bush. The Cranberry Bush_,                               511

 _The Choak Berry_,                                                  512

                          _ROOTS and PLANTS._

 _Spikenard. Sarsaparilla_,                                          513

 _Ginsang. Gold Thread_,                                             514

 _Solomon’s Seal. Devil’s Bit_,                                      515

 _Blood Root_,                                                       516

                                _HERBS._

 _Sanicle. Rattle Snake Plantain_,                                   517

 _Poor Robin’s Plantain. Toad Plantain. Rock Liverwort. Gargit
 or Skoke_.                                                          518

 _Skunk Cabbage or Poke_,                                            519

 _Wake Robin. Wild Indico. Cat Mint_,                                520

 _FLOWERS_,                                                          521


                _FARINACEOUS and LEGUMINOUS ROOTS, &c._

 _Maize or Indian Corn_,                                             522

 _Wild Rice_,                                                        523

 _Beans. The Squash_,                                                526

                              _APPENDIX._

 _The Probability of the interior Parts of North America
 becoming Commercial Colonies_,                                      527

 _The Means by which this might be effected_,                        529

 _Tracts of Land pointed out, on which Colonies may be
 established with the greatest Advantage_,                           531

 _Dissertation on the Discovery of a North-west Passage_,            539

 _The most certain Way of attaining it_,                             540

 _Plan proposed by Richard Whitworth, Esq. for making an
 Attempt from a Quarter hitherto unexplored_,                        441

 _The Reason of its being postponed_,                                543

[Illustration:

  A
  _NEW MAP_
  of
  NORTH
  AMERICA
  _From the
  Latest Discoveries_
  1778

  _Engrav’d for Carver’s_
  Travels
]




                             INTRODUCTION.


NO sooner was the late War with France concluded, and Peace established
by the Treaty of Versailles in the Year 1763, than I began to consider
(having rendered my country some services during the war) how I might
continue still serviceable, and contribute, as much as lay in my power,
to make that vast acquisition of territory, gained by Great Britain, in
North America advantageous to it. It appeared to me indispensably
needful, that Government should be acquainted in the first place with
the true state of the dominions they were now become possessed of. To
this purpose, I determined, as the next proof of my zeal, to explore the
most unknown parts of them, and to spare no trouble or expence in
acquiring a knowledge that promised to be so useful to my countrymen. I
knew that many obstructions would arise to my scheme from the want of
good Maps and Charts; for the French, whilst they retained their power
in North America, had taken every artful method to keep all other
nations, particularly the English, in ignorance of the concerns of the
interior parts of it: and to accomplish this design with the greater
certainty, they had published inaccurate maps and false accounts;
calling the different nations of the Indians by nicknames they had given
them, and not by those really appertaining to them. Whether the
intention of the French in doing this, was to prevent these nations from
being discovered and traded with, or to conceal their discourse, when
they talked to each other of the Indian concerns, in their presence, I
will not determine; but whatsoever was the cause from which it arose, it
tended to mislead.

As a proof that the English had been greatly deceived by these accounts,
and that their knowledge relative to Canada had usually been very
confined, before the conquest of Crown-Point in 1759, it had been
esteemed an impregnable fortress: but no sooner was it taken, than we
were convinced that it had acquired its greatest security from false
reports, given out by its possessors, and might have been battered down
with a few four pounders. Even its situation, which was represented to
be so very advantageous, was found to owe its advantages to the same
source. It cannot be denied but that some maps of these countries have
been published by the French with an appearance of accuracy; but these
are of so small a size and drawn on so minute a scale, that they are
nearly inexplicable. The sources of the Mississippi, I can assert from
my own experience, are greatly misplaced; for when I had explored them,
and compared their situation with the French Charts, I found them very
erroneously represented, and am satisfied that these were only copied
from the rude sketches of the Indians.

Even so lately as their evacuation of Canada they continued their
schemes to deceive; leaving no traces by which any knowledge might
accrue to their conquerors: for though they were well acquainted with
all the Lakes, particularly with Lake Superior, having constantly a
vessel of considerable burthen thereon, yet their plans of them are very
incorrect. I discovered many errors in the descriptions given therein of
its Islands and Bays, during a progress of eleven hundred miles that I
coasted it in canoes. They likewise, on giving up the possession of
them, took care to leave the places they had occupied in the same
uncultivated state they had found them; at the same time destroying all
their naval force. I observed myself part of the hulk of a very large
vessel, burnt to the water’s edge, just at the opening from the Straits
of St. Marie’s into the Lake.

These difficulties, however, were not sufficient to deter me from the
undertaking, and I made preparations for setting out. What I chiefly had
in view, after gaining a knowledge of the Manners, Customs, Languages,
Soil, and natural Productions of the different nations that inhabit the
back of the Mississippi, was to ascertain the Breadth of that vast
continent, which extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, in its
broadest part between 43 and 46 Degrees Northern Latitude. Had I been
able to accomplish this, I intended to have proposed to Government to
establish a Post in some of those parts about the Straits of Annian,
which having been first discovered by Sir Francis Drake, of course
belong to the English. This I am convinced would greatly facilitate the
discovery of a North-west Passage, or a communication between Hudson’s
Bay and the Pacific Ocean. An event so desirable, and which has been so
often sought for, but without success. Besides this important end, a
settlement on that extremity of America would answer many good purposes,
and repay every expence the establishment of it might occasion. For it
would not only disclose new sources of trade, and promote many useful
discoveries, but would open a passage for conveying intelligence to
China, and the English settlements in the East Indies, with greater
expedition than a tedious voyage by the Cape of Good Hope, or the
Straits of Magellan will allow of.

How far the advantages arising from such an enterprize may extend can
only be ascertained by the favourable concurrence of future events. But
that the completion of the scheme, I have had the honour of first
planning and attempting, will some time or other be effected, I make no
doubt. From the unhappy divisions that at present subsist between Great
Britain and America, it will probably be some years before the attempt
is repeated; but whenever it is, and the execution of it carried on with
propriety, those who are so fortunate as to succeed, will reap,
exclusive of the national advantages that must ensue, Emoluments beyond
their most sanguine expectations. And whilst their spirits are elated by
their success, perhaps they may bestow some commendations and blessings
on the person that first pointed out to them the way. These, though but
a shadowy recompence for all my toil, I shall receive with pleasure.

To what power or authority this new world will become dependent, after
it has arisen from its present uncultivated state, time alone can
discover. But as the seat of Empire from time immemorial has been
gradually progressive towards the West, there is no doubt but that at
some future period, mighty kingdoms will emerge from these wildernesses,
and stately palaces and solemn temples, with gilded spires reaching the
skies, supplant the Indian huts, whose only decorations are the
barbarous trophies of their vanquished enemies.

As some of the preceding passages have already informed the Reader that
the plan I had laid down for penetrating to the Pacific Ocean, proved
abortive, it is necessary to add, that this proceeded not from its
impracticability (for the farther I went the more convinced I was that
it could certainly be accomplished) but from unforeseen disappointments.
However, I proceeded so far, that I was able to make such discoveries as
will be useful in any future attempt, and prove a good foundation for
some more fortunate Successor to build upon. These I shall now lay
before the Public in the following pages; and am satisfied that the
greatest part of them have never been published by any person that has
hitherto treated of the interior Nations of the Indians; particularly,
the account I give of the Naudowessies, and the situation of the Heads
of the four great rivers that take their rise within a few leagues of
each other, nearly about the center of this great continent; viz. The
River Bourbon, which empties itself into Hudson’s Bay; the Waters of
Saint Lawrence; the Mississippi, and the River Oregon, or the River of
the West, that falls into the Pacific Ocean at the Straits of Annian.

The impediments that occasioned my returning, before I had accomplished
my purposes, were these. On my arrival at Michillimackinac, the remotest
English post, in September 1766, I applied to Mr. Rogers, who was then
governor of it, to furnish me with a proper assortment of goods, as
presents for the Indians who inhabit the track I intended to pursue. He
did this only in part; but promised to supply me with such as were
necessary, when I reached the Falls of Saint Anthony. I afterwards
learned that the governor fulfilled his promise in ordering the goods to
be delivered to me; but those to whose care he intrusted them, instead
of conforming to his orders, disposed of them elsewhere.

Disappointed in my expectations from this quarter, I thought it
necessary to return to La Prairié Le Chien; for it was impossible to
proceed any farther without presents to ensure me a favorable reception.
This I did in the beginning of the year 1767, and finding my progress to
the Westward thus retarded, I determined to direct my course Northward.
I took this step with a view of finding a communication from the Heads
of the Mississippi into Lake Superior, in order to meet, at the grand
Portage on the North-west side of that lake, the traders that usually
come, about this season, from Michillimackinac. Of these I intended to
purchase goods, and then to pursue my journey from that quarter by way
of the lakes de Pluye, Dubois, and Ounipique to the Heads of the river
of the West, which, as I have said before, falls into the Straits of
Annian, the termination of my intended progress.

I accomplished the former part of my design, and reached Lake Superior
in proper time; but unluckily the traders I met there acquainted me,
that they had no goods to spare; those they had with them being barely
sufficient to answer their own demands in these remote parts. Thus
disappointed a second time, I found myself obliged to return to the
place from whence I began my expedition, which I did after continuing
some months on the North and East borders of Lake Superior, and
exploring the Bays and Rivers that empty themselves into this large body
of water.

As it may be expected that I should lay before the Public the reasons
that these discoveries, of so much importance to every one who has any
connections with America, have not been imparted to them before,
notwithstanding they were made upwards of ten years ago, I will give
them to the world in a plain and candid manner, and without mingling
with them any complaints on account of the ill treatment I have
received.

On my arrival in England, I presented a petition to his Majesty in
council, praying for a reimbursement of those sums I had expended in the
service of government. This was referred to the Lords Commissioners of
Trade and Plantations. Their Lordships from the tenor of it thought the
intelligence I could give of so much importance to the nation that they
ordered me to appear before the Board. This message I obeyed, and
underwent a long examination; much I believe to the satisfaction of
every Lord present. When it was finished, I requested to know what I
should do with my papers; without hesitation the first Lord replied,
That I might publish them whenever I pleased. In consequence of this
permission, I disposed of them to a bookseller: but when they were
nearly ready for the press, an order was issued from the council board,
requiring me to deliver, without delay, into the Plantation Office, all
my Charts and Journals, with every paper relative to the discoveries I
had made. In order to obey this command, I was obliged to re-purchase
them from the bookseller, at a very great expence, and deliver them up.
This fresh disbursement I endeavoured to get annexed to the account I
had already delivered in; but the request was denied me, notwithstanding
I had only acted, in the disposal of my papers, conformably to the
permission I had received from the Board of Trade. This loss, which
amounted to a very considerable sum, I was obliged to bear, and to rest
satisfied with an indemnification for my other expences.

Thus situated, my only expectations are from the favour of a generous
Public; to whom I shall now communicate my Plans, Journals, and
Observations, of which I luckily kept copies, when I delivered the
originals into the Plantation Office. And this I do the more readily, as
I hear they are mislaid; and there is no probability of their ever being
published. To those who are interested in the concerns of the interior
parts of North America, from the contiguity of their possessions, or
commercial engagements, they will be extremely useful, and fully repay
the sum at which they are purchased. To those, who, from a laudable
curiosity, wish to be acquainted with the manners and customs of every
inhabitant of this globe, the accounts here given of the various nations
that inhabit so vast a track of it, a country hitherto almost
unexplored, will furnish an ample fund of amusement and gratify their
most curious expectations. And I flatter myself they will be as
favourably received by the Public, as descriptions of islands, which
afford no other entertainment than what arises from their novelty; and
discoveries, that seem to promise very few advantages to this country,
though acquired at an immense expence.

To make the following Work as comprehensible and entertaining as
possible, I shall first give my Readers an account of the route I
pursued over this immense continent (through which they will be able to
attend me by referring to the plan prefixed) and as I pass on, describe
the number of Inhabitants, the situation of the Rivers and Lakes, and
the productions of the country. Having done this, I shall treat, in
distinct Chapters, of the Manners, Customs, and Languages of the
Indians, and to complete the whole, add a Vocabulary of the Words mostly
in use among them.

And here it is necessary to bespeak the candour of the learned part of
my Readers in the perusal of it, as it is the production of a person
unused, from opposite avocations, to literary pursuits. He therefore
begs they would not examine it with too critical an eye; especially when
he assures them that his attention has been more employed on giving a
just description of a country that promises, in some future period, to
be an inexhaustible source of riches to that people who shall be so
fortunate as to possess it, than on the style or composition; and more
careful to render his language intelligible and explicit, than smooth
and florid.

[Illustration: _A PLAN of Captain Carver’s Travels in the interior Parts
of NORTH AMERICA in 1766 and 1767_.]




                                   A

                        JOURNAL OF THE TRAVELS,

                                 WITH A

                              DESCRIPTION

                                 OF THE

                          COUNTRY, LAKES, &c.


IN June 1766, I set out from Boston, and proceeded by way of Albany and
Niagara, to Michillimackinac; a Fort situated between the Lakes Huron
and Michigan, and distant from Boston 1300 miles. This being the
uttermost of our factories towards the north-west, I considered it as
the most convenient place from whence I could begin my intended
progress, and enter at once into the Regions I designed to explore.

Referring my Readers to the publications already extant for an Account
of those Parts of North America, that, from lying adjacent to the
Back-Settlements, have been frequently described, I shall confine myself
to a Description of the more interior parts of it, which having been but
seldom visited, are consequently but little known. In doing this, I
shall in no instance exceed the bounds of truth, or have recourse to
those useless and extravagant exaggerations too often made use of by
travellers, to excite the curiosity of the public, or to increase their
own importance. Nor shall I insert any observations, but such as I have
made myself, or, from the credibility of those by whom they were
related, am enabled to vouch for their authenticity.

Michillimackinac, from whence I began my travels, is a Fort composed of
a strong stockade, and is usually defended by a garrison of one hundred
men. It contains about thirty houses, one of which belongs to the
governor, and another to the commissary. Several traders also dwell
within its fortifications, who find it a convenient situation to traffic
with the neighbouring nations. Michillimackinac, in the language of the
Chipéway Indians, signifies a Tortoise; and the place is supposed to
receive its name from an Island, lying about six or seven miles to the
north-east, within light of the Fort, which has the appearance of that
animal.

During the Indian war that followed soon after the Conquest of Canada in
the year 1763, and which was carried on by an army of confederate
nations composed of the Hurons, Miamies, Chipéways, Ottowaws,
Pontowattimies, Mississauges, and some other tribes, under the direction
of Pontiac, a celebrated Indian warrior, who had always been in the
French interest, it was taken by surprize in the following manner: The
Indians having settled their plan, drew near the Fort, and began a game
at Ball, a pastime much used among them, and not unlike tennis. In the
height of their game, at which some of the English officers, not
suspecting any deceit, stood looking on, they struck the ball, as if by
accident, over the stockade; this they repeated two or three times, to
make the deception more complete; till at length, having by this means
lulled every suspicion of the centry at the south gate, a party rushed
by him; and the rest soon following, they took possession of the Fort,
without meeting with any opposition. Having accomplished their design,
the Indians had the humanity to spare the lives of the greatest part of
the garrison and traders, but they made them all prisoners, and carried
them off. However some time after they took them to Montreal, where they
were redeemed at a good price. The Fort also was given up again to the
English at the peace made with Pontiac by the commander of Detroit the
year following.

Having here made the necessary dispositions for pursuing my travels, and
obtained a credit from Mr. Rogers, the governor, on some English and
Canadian traders who were going to trade on the Mississippi, and
received also from him a promise of a fresh supply of goods when I
reached the Falls of Saint Anthony, I left the Fort on the 3d of
September, in company with these traders. It was agreed, that they
should furnish me with such goods as I might want, for presents to the
Indian chiefs, during my continuance with them, agreeable to the
governor’s order. But when I arrived at the extent of their route, I was
to find other guides, and to depend on the goods the governor had
promised to supply me with.

We accordingly set out together, and on the 18th arrived at Fort La Bay.
This Fort is situated on the southern extremity of a Bay in Lake
Michigan, termed by the French the Bay of Puants; but which, since the
English have gained possession of all the settlements on this part of
the Continent, is called by them the Green Bay. The reason of its being
thus denominated, is from its appearance; for on leaving
Michillimackinac in the spring season, though the trees there have not
even put forth their buds, yet you find the country around La Bay,
notwithstanding the passage has not exceeded fourteen days, covered with
the finest verdure, and vegetation as forward as it could be were it
summer.

This Fort, also, is only surrounded by a stockade, and being much
decayed is scarcely defensible against small arms. It was built by the
French for the protection of their trade, some time before they were
forced to relinquish it; and when Canada and its dependencies were
surrendered to the English, it was immediately garrisoned with an
officer and thirty men. These were made prisoners by the Menomonies soon
after the surprise of Michillimackinac, and the Fort has neither been
garrisoned or kept in repair since.

The Bay is about ninety miles long, but differs much in its breadth;
being in some places only fifteen miles, in others from twenty to
thirty. It lies nearly from north-east to south-west. At the entrance of
it from the Lake are a string of islands, extending from north to south,
called the Grand Traverse. These are about thirty miles in length, and
serve to facilitate the passage of canoes, as they shelter them from the
winds, which sometimes come with violence across the Lake. On the side
that lies to the south-east is the nearest and best navigation.

The islands of the Grand Traverse are mostly small and rocky. Many of
the rocks are of an amazing size, and appear as if they had been
fashioned by the hands of artists. On the largest and best of these
islands stands a town of the Ottowaws, at which I found one of the most
considerable chiefs of that nation, who received me with every honour he
could possibly show to a stranger. But what appeared extremely singular
to me at the time, and must do so to every person unacquainted with the
customs of the Indians, was the reception I met with on landing. As our
canoes approached the shore, and had reached within about threescore
rods of it, the Indians began a feu-de-joy; in which they fired their
pieces loaded with balls; but at the same time they took care to
discharge them in such a manner, as to fly a few yards above our heads:
during this they ran from one tree or stump to another, shouting and
behaving as if they were in the heat of battle. At first I was greatly
surprised, and was on the point of ordering my attendants to return
their fire, concluding that their intentions were hostile; but being
undeceived by some of the traders, who informed me that this was their
usual method of receiving the chiefs of other nations, I considered it
in its true light, and was pleased with the respect thus paid me.

I remained here one night. Among the presents I made the chiefs, were
some spirituous liquors; with which they made themselves merry, and all
joined in a dance, that lasted the greatest part of the night. In the
morning when I departed, the chief attended me to the shore, and, as
soon as I had embarked, offered up, in an audible voice, and with great
solemnity, a fervent prayer in my behalf. He prayed “that the Great
Spirit would favour me with a prosperous voyage; that he would give me
an unclouded sky, and smooth waters, by day, and that I might lie down,
by night, on a beaver blanket, enjoying uninterrupted sleep, and
pleasant dreams; and also that I might find continual protection under
the great pipe of peace.” In this manner he continued his petitions till
I could no longer hear them.

I must here observe, that notwithstanding the inhabitants of Europe are
apt to entertain horrid ideas of the ferocity of these savages, as they
are termed, I received from every tribe of them in the interior parts,
the most hospitable and courteous treatment; and am convinced, that till
they are contaminated by the example and spirituous liquors of their
more refined neighbours, they retain this friendly and inoffensive
conduct towards strangers. Their inveteracy and cruelty to their enemies
I acknowledge to be a great abatement of the favourable opinion I would
wish to entertain of them; but this failing is hereditary, and having
received the sanction of immemorial custom, has taken too deep root in
their minds to be ever extirpated.

Among this people I eat of a very uncommon kind of bread. The Indians,
in general, use but little of this nutritious food: whilst their corn is
in the milk, as they term it, that is, just before it begins to ripen,
they slice off the kernels from the cob to which they grow, and knead
them into a paste. This they are enabled to do without the addition of
any liquid, by the milk that flows from them; and when it is effected,
they parcel it out into cakes, and inclosing them in leaves of the
basswood tree, place them in hot embers, where they are soon baked. And
better flavoured bread I never eat in any country.

This place is only a small village containing about twenty-five houses
and sixty or seventy warriors. I found nothing there worthy of further
remark.

The land on the south-east side of the Green Bay is but very
indifferent, being overspread with a heavy growth of hemlock, pine,
spruce and fir trees. The communication between Lake Michigan and the
Green Bay has been reported by some to be impracticable for the passage
of any vessels larger than canoes or boats, on account of the shoals
that lie between the islands in the Grand Traverse; but on sounding it I
found sufficient depth for a vessel of sixty tons, and the breadth
proportionable.

The land adjoining to the bottom of this Bay is very fertile, the
country in general level, and the perspective view of it pleasing and
extensive.

A few families live in the Fort, which lies on the west-side of the Fox
River, and opposite to it, on the east side of its entrance, are some
French settlers who cultivate the land, and appear to live very
comfortably.

The Green Bay or Bay of Puants is one of those places to which the
French, as I have mentioned in the Introduction, have given nicknames.
It is termed by the inhabitants of its coasts, the Menomonie Bay; but
why the French have denominated it the Puant or Stinking Bay I know not.
The reason they themselves give for it is, that it was not with a view
to mislead strangers, but that by adopting this method they could
converse with each other, concerning the Indians, in their presence,
without being understood by them. For it was remarked by the persons who
first traded among them, that when they were speaking to each other
about them, and mentioned their proper name, they instantly grew
suspicious, and concluded that their visiters were either speaking ill
of them, or plotting their destruction. To remedy this they gave them
some other name. The only bad consequence arising from the practice then
introduced is, that English and French geographers, in their plans of
the interior parts of America, give different names to the same people,
and thereby perplex those who have occasion to refer to them.

Lake Michigan, of which the Green Bay is a part, is divided on the
north-east from Lake Huron by the Straits of Michillimackinac; and is
situated between forty-two and forty-six degrees of latitude, and
between eighty-four and eighty-seven degrees of west longitude. Its
greatest length is two hundred and eighty miles, its breadth about
forty, and its circumference nearly six hundred. There is a remarkable
string of small islands beginning over against Atkin’s Farm, and running
about thirty miles south-west into the Lake. These are called the Beaver
Islands. Their situation is very pleasant, but the soil is bare. However
they afford a beautiful prospect.

On the north-west parts of this Lake the waters branch out into two
bays. That which lies towards the north is the Bay of Noquets, and the
other the Green Bay just described.

The waters of this as well as the other great Lakes are clear and
wholesome, and of sufficient depth for the navigation of large ships.
Half the space of the country that lies to the east, and extends to Lake
Huron, belongs to the Ottowaw Indians. The line that divides their
territories from the Chipéways, runs nearly north and south, and reaches
almost from the southern extremity of this Lake, across the high lands,
to Michillimackinac, through the center of which it passes. So that when
these two tribes happen to meet at the factory, they each encamp on
their own dominions, at a few yards distance from the stockade.

The country adjacent either to the east or west side of this lake is
composed but of an indifferent soil, except where small brooks or rivers
empty themselves into it; on the banks of these it is extremely fertile.
Near the borders of the Lake grow a great number of sand cherries, which
are not less remarkable for their manner of growth, than for their
exquisite flavour. They grow upon a small shrub not more than four feet
high, the boughs of which are so loaded that they lie in clusters on the
sand. As they grow only on the sand, the warmth of which probably
contributes to bring them to such perfection, they are called by the
French, cherries de sable, or sand cherries. The size of them does not
exceed that of a small musket ball, but they are reckoned superior to
any other sort for the purpose of steeping in spirits. There also grow
around the Lake gooseberries, black currants, and an abundance of
juniper, bearing great quantities of berries of the finest sort.

Sumack likewise grows here in great plenty; the leaf of which, gathered
at Michaelmas when it turns red, is much esteemed by the natives. They
mix about an equal quantity of it with their tobacco, which causes it to
smoke pleasantly. Near this Lake, and indeed about all the great lakes,
is found a kind of willow, termed by the French, bois rouge, in English
red wood. Its bark, when only of one year’s growth, is of a fine scarlet
colour, and appears very beautiful; but as it grows older, it changes
into a mixture of grey and red. The stalks of this shrub grow many of
them together, and rise to the height of six or eight feet, the largest
not exceeding an inch diameter. The bark being scraped from the sticks,
and dried and powdered, is also mixed by the Indians with their tobacco,
and is held by them in the highest estimation for their winter smoaking.
A weed that grows near the great lakes, in rocky places, they use in the
summer season. It is called by the Indians, Segockimac, and creeps like
a vine on the ground, sometimes extending to eight or ten feet, and
bearing a leaf about the size of a silver penny, nearly round; it is of
the substance and colour of the laurel, and is, like the tree it
resembles, an evergreen. These leaves, dried and powdered, they likewise
mix with their tobacco; and, as said before, smoak it only during the
summer. By these three succedaneums the pipes of the Indians are well
supplied through every season of the year; and as they are great
smoakers, they are very careful in properly gathering and preparing
them.

On the 20th of September I left the Green Bay, and proceeded up Fox
River, still in company with the traders and some Indians. On the 25th I
arrived at the great town of the Winnebagoes, situated on a small island
just as you enter the east end of Lake Winnebago. Here the queen who
presided over this tribe instead of a Sachem, received me with great
civility, and entertained me in a very distinguished manner, during the
four days I continued with her.

The day after my arrival I held a council with the chiefs, of whom I
asked permission to pass through their country, in my way to more remote
nations on business of importance. This was readily granted me, the
request being esteemed by them as a great compliment paid to their
tribe. The Queen sat in the council, but only asked a few questions, or
gave some trifling directions in matters relative to the state; for
women are never allowed to sit in their councils, except they happen to
be invested with the supreme authority, and then it is not customary for
them to make any formal speeches as the chiefs do. She was a very
ancient woman, small in stature, and not much distinguished by her dress
from several young women that attended her. These her attendants seemed
greatly pleased whenever I showed any tokens of respect to their queen,
particularly when I saluted her, which I frequently did to acquire her
favour. On these occasions the good old lady endeavoured to assume a
juvenile gaiety, and by her smiles showed she was equally pleased with
the attention I paid her.

The time I tarried here, I employed in making the best observations
possible on the country, and in collecting the most certain intelligence
I could of the origin, language, and customs of this people. From these
enquiries I have reason to conclude, that the Winnebagoes originally
resided in some of the provinces belonging to New Mexico; and being
driven from their native country, either by intestine divisions, or by
the extension of the Spanish conquests, they took refuge in these more
northern parts about a century ago.

My reasons for adopting this supposition, are, first from their
unalienable attachment to the Naudowessie Indians (who, they say, gave
them the earliest succour during their emigration) notwithstanding their
present residence is more than six hundred miles distant from that
people.

Secondly, that their dialect totally differs from every other Indian
nation yet discovered; it being a very uncouth guttural jargon, which
none of their neighbours will attempt to learn. They converse with other
nations in the Chipéway tongue, which is the prevailing language
throughout all the tribes, from the Mohawks of Canada to those who
inhabit the borders of the Mississippi, and from the Hurons and Illinois
to such as dwell near Hudson’s Bay.

Thirdly, from their inveterate hatred to the Spaniards. Some of them
informed me that they had made many excursions to the south-west, which
took up several moons. An elderly chief more particularly acquainted me,
that about forty-six winters ago, he marched, at the head of fifty
warriors, towards the south-west, for three moons. That during this
expedition, whilst they were crossing a plain, they discovered a body of
men on horseback, who belonged to the Black People; for so they call the
Spaniards. As soon as they perceived them, they proceeded with caution,
and concealed themselves till night came on; when they drew so near as
to be able to discern the number and situation of their enemies. Finding
they were not able to cope with so great a superiority by day-light,
they waited till they had retired to rest; when they rushed upon them,
and, after having killed the greatest part of the men, took eighty
horses loaded with what they termed white stone. This I suppose to have
been silver, as he told me the horses were shod with it, and that their
bridles were ornamented with the same. When they had satiated their
revenge, they carried off their spoil, and being got so far as to be out
of the reach of the Spaniards that had escaped their fury, they left the
useless and ponderous burthen, with which the horses were loaded, in the
woods, and mounting themselves, in this manner returned to their
friends. The party they had thus defeated, I conclude to be the caravan
that annually conveys to Mexico, the silver which the Spaniards find in
great quantities on the mountains lying near the heads of the Coloredo
River: and the plains where the attack was made, probably, some they
were obliged to pass over in their way to the heads of the River St.
Fee, or Rio del Nord, which falls into the Gulph of Mexico to the west
of the Mississippi.

The Winnebagoes can raise about two hundred warriors. Their town
contains about fifty houses, which are strongly built with palisades,
and the island on which it is situated nearly fifty acres. It lies
thirty-five miles, reckoning according to the course of the river, from
the Green Bay.

The River, for about four or five miles from the Bay, has a gentle
current; after that space, till you arrive at the Winnebago Lake, it is
full of rocks and very rapid. At many places we were obliged to land our
canoes, and carry them a considerable way. Its breadth, in general, from
the Green Bay to the Winnebago Lake, is between seventy and a hundred
yards: the land on its borders very good, and thinly wooded with
hickery, oak, and hazel.

The Winnebago Lake is about fifteen miles long from east to west, and
six miles wide. At its south-east corner, a river falls into it that
takes its rise near some of the northern branches of the Illinois River.
This I called the Crocodile River, in consequence of a story that
prevails among the Indians, of their having destroyed, in some part of
it, an animal, which from their description must be a crocodile or an
alligator.

The land adjacent to the Lake is very fertile, abounding with grapes,
plums, and other fruits, which grow spontaneously. The Winnebagoes raise
on it a great quantity of Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, squash, and
water melons, with some tobacco. The Lake itself abounds with fish, and
in the fall of the year, with geese, ducks, and teal. The latter, which
resort to it in great numbers, are remarkably good and extremely fat,
and are much better flavoured than those that are found near the sea, as
they acquire their excessive fatness by feeding on the wild rice, which
grow so plentifully in these parts.

Having made some acceptable presents to the good old queen, and received
her blessing, I left the town of the Winnebagoes on the 29th of
September, and about twelve miles from it arrived at the place where the
Fox River enters the Lake on the north side of it. We proceeded up this
river, and on the 7th of October reached the great Carrying Place, which
divides it from the Ouisconsin.

The Fox River, from the Green Bay to the Carrying Place, is about one
hundred and eighty miles. From the Winnebago Lake to the Carrying Place
the current is gentle, and the depth of it considerable; notwithstanding
which, in some places it is with difficulty that canoes can pass,
through the obstructions they meet with from the rice stalks, which are
very large and thick, and grow here in great abundance. The country
around it is very fertile and proper in the highest degree for
cultivation, excepting in some places near the River, where it is rather
too low. It is in no part very woody, and yet can supply sufficient to
answer the demands of any number of inhabitants. This river is the
greatest resort for wild fowl of every kind that I met with in the whole
course of my travels; frequently the sun would be obscured by them for
some minutes together.

About forty miles up this river, from the great town of the Winnebagoes,
stands a smaller town belonging to that nation.

Deer and bears are very numerous in these parts, and a great many
beavers and other furs are taken on the streams that empty themselves
into this river.

The River I am treating of, is remarkable for having been, about eighty
years ago, the residence of the united bands of the Ottigaumies and the
Saukies, whom the French had nicknamed, according to their wonted
custom, Des Sacs and Des Reynards, the Sacks and the Foxes, of whom the
following anecdote was related to me by an Indian.

About sixty years ago, the French missionaries and traders having
received many insults from these people, a party of French and Indians
under the command of Captain Morand marched to revenge their wrongs. The
captain set out from the Green Bay in the winter, when they were
unsuspicious of a visit of this kind, and pursuing his route over the
snow to their villages, which lay about fifty miles up the Fox River,
came upon them by surprize. Unprepared as they were, he found them an
easy conquest, and consequently killed or took prisoners the greatest
part of them. On the return of the French to the Green Bay, one of the
Indian chiefs in alliance with them, who had a considerable band of the
prisoners under his care, stopped to drink at a brook; in the mean time
his companions went on: which being observed by one of the women whom
they had made captive, she suddenly seized him with both her hands,
whilst he stooped to drink, by an exquisitely susceptible part, and held
him fast till he expired on the spot. As the chief, from the extreme
torture he suffered, was unable to call out to his friends, or to give
any alarm, they passed on without knowing what had happened; and the
woman having cut the bands of those of her fellow prisoners who were in
the rear, with them made her escape. This heroine was ever after treated
by her nation as their deliverer, and made a chiefess in her own right,
with liberty to entail the same honour on her descendants: an unusual
distinction, and permitted only on extraordinary occasions.

About twelve miles before I reached the Carrying Place, I observed
several small mountains which extended quite to it. These indeed would
only be esteemed as molehills when compared with those on the back of
the colonies, but as they were the first I had seen since my leaving
Niagara, a track of nearly eleven hundred miles, I could not leave them
unnoticed.

The Fox River, where it enters the Winnebago Lake, is about fifty yards
wide, but it gradually decreases to the Carrying Place, where it is no
more than five yards over, except in a few places where it widens into
small lakes, though still of a considerable depth. I cannot recollect
any thing else that is remarkable in this River, except that it so
serpentines for five miles, as only to gain in that place one quarter of
a mile.

The Carrying Place between the Fox and Ouisconsin Rivers is in breadth
not more than a mile and three quarters, though in some maps it is so
delineated as to appear to be ten miles. And here I cannot help
remarking, that all the maps of these parts, I have ever seen, are very
erroneous. The rivers in general are described as running in different
directions from what they really do; and many branches of them,
particularly of the Mississippi, omitted. The distances of places,
likewise, are greatly misrepresented. Whether this is done by the French
geographers (for the English maps are all copied from theirs) through
design, or for want of a just knowledge of the country, I cannot say;
but I am satisfied that travellers who depend upon them in the parts I
visited, will find themselves much at a loss. Having surveyed with the
greatest care, every country through which I passed, I can assert that
the plan prefixed to this work is drawn with much greater precision than
any extant.

Near one half of the way, between the rivers, is a morass overgrown with
a kind of long grass, the rest of it a plain, with some few oak and pine
trees growing thereon. I observed here a great number of rattle-snakes.
Mons. Pinnisance, a French trader, told me a remarkable story concerning
one of these reptiles, of which he said he was an eye-witness. An
Indian, belonging to the Menomonie nation, having taken one of them,
found means to tame it; and when he had done this, treated it as a
Deity; calling it his Great Father, and carrying it with him in a box
wherever he went. This the Indian had done for several summers, when
Mons. Pinnisance accidentally met with him at this Carrying Place, just
as he was setting off for a winter’s hunt. The French gentleman was
surprized, one day, to see the Indian place the box which contained his
god on the ground, and opening the door give him his liberty; telling
him, whilst he did it, to be sure and return by the time he himself
should come back, which was to be in the month of May following. As this
was but October, Monsieur told the Indian, whose simplicity astonished
him, that he fancied he might wait long enough when May arrived, for the
arrival of his great father. The Indian was so confident of his
creature’s obedience, that he offered to lay the Frenchman a wager of
two gallons of rum, that at the time appointed he would come and crawl
into his box. This was agreed on, and the second week in May following
fixed for the determination of the wager. At that period they both met
there again; when the Indian set down his box, and called for his great
father. The snake heard him not; and the time being now expired, he
acknowledged that he had lost. However, without seeming to be
discouraged, he offered to double the bett if his great father came not
within two days more. This was further agreed on; when behold on the
second day, about one o’clock, the snake arrived, and, of his own
accord, crawled into the box, which was placed ready for him. The French
gentleman vouched for the truth of this story, and from the accounts I
have often received of the docility of those creatures, I see no reason
to doubt his veracity.

I observed that the main body of the Fox River came from the south-west,
that of the Ouisconsin from the north-east; and also that some of the
small branches of these two rivers, in descending into them, doubled,
within a few feet of each other, a little to the south of the Carrying
Place. That two such Rivers should take their rise so near each other,
and after running such different courses, empty themselves into the sea
at a distance so amazing (for the former having passed through several
great lakes, and run upwards of two thousand miles, falls into the Gulf
of St. Lawrence, and the other, after joining the Mississippi, and
having run an equal number of miles, disembogues itself into the Gulph
of Mexico) is an instance scarcely to be met in the extensive continent
of North America. I had an opportunity the year following, of making the
same observations on the affinity of various head branches of the waters
of the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi to each other; and now bring
them as a proof, that the opinion of those geographers, who assert, that
rivers taking their rise so near each other, must spring from the same
source, is erroneous. For I perceived a visibly distinct separation in
all of them, notwithstanding, in some places, they approached so near,
that I could have stepped from one to the other.

On the 8th of October we got our canoes into the Ouisconsin River, which
at this place is more than a hundred yards wide; and the next day
arrived at the Great Town of the Saukies. This is the largest and best
built Indian town I ever saw. It contains about ninety houses, each
large enough for several families. These are built of hewn plank neatly
jointed, and covered with bark so compactly as to keep out the most
penetrating rains. Before the doors are placed comfortable sheds, in
which the inhabitants sit, when the weather will permit, and smoak their
pipes. The streets are regular and spacious; so that it appears more
like a civilized town than the abode of savages. The land near the town
is very good. In their plantations, which lie adjacent to their houses,
and which are neatly laid out, they raise great quantities of Indian
corn, beans, melons, &c. so that this place is esteemed the best market
for traders to furnish themselves with provisions, of any within eight
hundred miles of it.

The Saukies can raise about three hundred warriors, who are generally
employed every summer in making incursions into the territories of the
Illinois and Pawnee nations, from whence they return with a great number
of slaves. But those people frequently retaliate, and, in their turn,
destroy many of the Saukies, which I judge to be the reason that they
increase no faster.

Whilst I staid here, I took a view of some mountains that lie about
fifteen miles to the southward, and abound in lead ore. I ascended one
of the highest of these, and had an extensive view of the country. For
many miles nothing was to be seen but lesser mountains, which appeared
at a distance like haycocks, they being free from trees. Only a few
groves of hickery, and stunted oaks, covered some of the vallies. So
plentiful is lead here, that I saw large quantities of it lying about
the streets in the town belonging to the Saukies, and it seemed to be as
good as the produce of other countries.

On the 10th of October we proceeded down the river, and the next day
reached the first town of the Ottigaumies. This town contained about
fifty houses, but we found most of them deserted, on account of an
epidemical disorder that had lately raged among them, and carried off
more than one half of the inhabitants. The greater part of those who
survived had retired into the woods, to avoid the contagion.

On the 15th we entered that extensive river the Mississippi. The
Ouisconsin, from the Carrying Place to the part where it falls into the
Mississippi, flows with a smooth but a strong current; the water of it
is exceedingly clear, and through it you may perceive a fine and sandy
bottom, tolerably free from rocks. In it are a few islands, the soil of
which appeared to be good, though somewhat woody. The land near the
river also seemed to be, in general, excellent; but that at a distance
is very full of mountains, where it is said there are many lead mines.

About five miles from the junction of the rivers, I observed the ruins
of a large town in a very pleasing situation. On enquiring of the
neighbouring Indians why it was thus deserted, I was informed, that
about thirty years ago, the Great Spirit had appeared on the top of a
pyramid of rocks, which lay at a little distance from it, towards the
west, and warned them to quit their habitations; for the land on which
they were built belonged to him, and he had occasion for it. As a proof
that he, who gave them these orders, was really the Great Spirit, he
further told them, that the grass should immediately spring up on those
very rocks from whence he now addressed them, which they knew to be bare
and barren. The Indians obeyed, and soon after discovered that this
miraculous alteration had taken place. They shewed me the spot, but the
growth of the grass appeared to be no ways supernatural. I apprehend
this to have been a stratagem of the French or Spaniards to answer some
selfish view; but in what manner they effected their purposes I know
not.

This people, soon after their removal, built a town on the bank of the
Mississippi, near the mouth of the Ouisconsin, at a place called by the
French La Prairies les Chiens, which signifies the Dog Plains; it is a
large town, and contains about three hundred families; the houses are
well built after the Indian manner, and pleasantly situated on a very
rich soil, from which they raise every necessary of life in great
abundance. I saw here many horses of a good size and shape. This town is
the great mart, where all the adjacent tribes, and even those who
inhabit the most remote branches of the Mississippi, annually assemble
about the latter end of May, bringing with them their furs to dispose of
to the traders. But it is not always that they conclude their sale here;
this is determined by a general council of the chiefs, who consult
whether it would be more conducive to their interest, to sell their
goods at this place, or carry them on to Louisiana, or Michillimackinac.
According to the decision of this council they either proceed further,
or return to their different homes.

The Mississippi, at the entrance of the Ouisconsin, near which stands a
mountain of considerable height, is about half a mile over; but opposite
to the last mentioned town it appears to be more than a mile wide, and
full of islands, the soil of which is extraordinary rich, and but thinly
wooded.

A little farther to the west, on the contrary side, a small river falls
into the Mississippi, which the French call Le Jaun Riviere, or the
Yellow River. Here the traders who had accompanied me hitherto, took up
their residence for the winter. I then bought a canoe, and with two
servants, one a French Canadian and the other a Mohawk of Canada, on the
19th proceeded up the Mississippi.

About ten days after I had parted from the traders, I landed as I
usually did every evening, and having pitched my tent, I ordered my men,
when night came on, to lay themselves down to sleep. By a light that I
kept burning I then sat down to copy the minutes I had taken in the
course of the preceding day. About ten o’clock, having just finished my
memorandums, I stepped out of my tent to see what weather it was. As I
cast my eyes towards the bank of the river, I thought I saw by the light
of the stars which shone bright, something that had the appearance of a
herd of beasts coming down a descent at some distance; whilst I was
wondering what they could be, one of the number suddenly sprung up and
discovered to me the form of a man. In an instant they were all on their
legs, and I could count about ten or twelve of them running towards me.
I immediately re-entered the tent, and awaking my men, ordered them to
take their arms, and follow me. As my first apprehensions were for my
canoe, I ran to the water’s side, and found a party of Indians (for such
I now discovered them to be) on the point of plundering it. Before I
reached them I commanded my men not to fire till I had given the word,
being unwilling to begin hostilities unless occasion absolutely
required. I accordingly advanced with resolution, close to the points of
their spears, they had no other weapons, and brandishing my hanger,
asked them with a stern voice, what they wanted. They were staggered at
this, and perceiving they were like to meet with a warm reception,
turned about and precipitately retreated. We pursued them to an adjacent
wood, which they entered, and we saw no more of them. However, for fear
of their return, we watched alternately during the remainder of the
night. The next day my servants were under great apprehensions, and
earnestly entreated me to return to the traders we had lately left. But
I told them, that if they would not be esteemed old women (a term of the
greatest reproach among the Indians) they must follow me; for I was
determined to pursue my intended route, as an Englishman, when once
engaged in an adventure, never retreated. On this they got into the
canoe, and I walked on the shore to guard them from any further attack.
The party of Indians who had thus intended to plunder me, I afterwards
found to be some of those straggling bands, that having been driven from
among the different tribes to which they belonged for various crimes,
now associated themselves together, and, living by plunder, prove very
troublesome to travellers who pass this way; nor are even Indians of
every tribe spared by them. The traders had before cautioned me to be
upon my guard against them, and I would repeat the same caution to those
whose business might call them into these parts.

On the first of November I arrived at Lake Pepin, which is rather an
extended part of the River Mississippi, that the French have thus
denominated, about two hundred miles from the Ouisconsin. The
Mississippi below this Lake flows with a gentle current, but the breadth
of it is very uncertain, in some places it being upwards of a mile, in
others not more than a quarter. This River has a range of mountains on
each side throughout the whole of the way; which in particular parts
approach near to it, in others lie at a greater distance. The land
betwixt the mountains, and on their sides, is generally covered with
grass with a few groves of trees interspersed, near which large droves
of deer and elk are frequently seen feeding. In many places pyramids of
rocks appeared, resembling old ruinous towers; at others amazing
precipices; and what is very remarkable, whilst this scene presented
itself on one side, the opposite side of the same mountain was covered
with the finest herbage, which gradually ascended to its summit. From
thence the most beautiful and extensive prospect that imagination can
form opens to your view. Verdant plains, fruitful meadows, numerous
islands, and all these abounding with a variety of trees that yield
amazing quantities of fruit, without care or cultivation, such as the
nut-tree, the maple which produces sugar, vines loaded with rich grapes,
and plum-trees bending under their blooming burdens, but above all, the
fine River flowing gently beneath, and reaching as far as the eye can
extend, by turns attract your admiration and excite your wonder.

The Lake is about twenty miles long and near six in breadth; in some
places it is very deep, and abounds with various kinds of fish. Great
numbers of fowl frequent also this Lake and rivers adjacent, such as
storks, swans, geese, brants, and ducks: and in the groves are found
great plenty of turkeys and partridges. On the plains are the largest
buffaloes of any in America. Here I observed the ruins of a French
factory, where it is said Captain St. Pierre resided, and carried on a
very great trade with the Naudowessies, before the reduction of Canada.

About sixty miles below this Lake is a mountain remarkably situated; for
it stands by itself exactly in the middle of the River, and looks as if
it had slidden from the adjacent shore into the stream. It cannot be
termed an island, as it rises immediately from the brink of the water to
a considerable height. Both the Indians and the French call it the
Mountain in the River.

One day having landed on the shore of the Mississippi, some miles below
Lake Pepin, whilst my attendants were preparing my dinner, I walked out
to take a view of the adjacent country. I had not proceeded far, before
I came to a fine, level, open plain, on which I perceived at a little
distance, a partial elevation that had the appearance of an
intrenchment. On a nearer inspection I had greater reason to suppose
that it had really been intended for this many centuries ago.
Notwithstanding it was now covered with grass, I could plainly discern
that it had once been a breast-work of about four feet in height,
extending the best part of a mile, and sufficiently capacious to cover
five thousand men. Its form was somewhat circular, and its flanks
reached to the River. Though much defaced by time, every angle was
distinguishable, and appeared as regular, and fashioned with as much
military skill, as if planned by Vauban himself. The ditch was not
visible, but I thought on examining more curiously, that I could
perceive there certainly had been one. From its situation also, I am
convinced that it must have been designed for this purpose. It fronted
the country, and the rear was covered by the River; nor was there any
rising ground for a considerable way that commanded it; a few straggling
oaks were alone to be seen near it. In many places small tracks were
worn across it by the feet of the elks and deer, and from the depth of
the bed of earth by which it was covered, I was able to draw certain
conclusions of its great antiquity. I examined all the angles and every
part with great attention, and have often blamed myself since, for not
encamping on the spot, and drawing an exact plan of it. To shew that
this description is not the offspring of a heated imagination, or the
chimerical tale of a mistaken traveller, I find on enquiry since my
return, that Mons. St. Pierre and several traders have, at different
times, taken notice of similar appearances, on which they have formed
the same conjectures, but without examining them so minutely as I did.
How a work of this kind could exist in a country that has hitherto
(according to the general received opinion) been the seat of war to
untutored Indians alone, whose whole stock of military knowledge has
only, till within two centuries, amounted to drawing the bow, and whose
only breast-work even at present is the thicket, I know not. I have
given as exact an account as possible of this singular appearance, and
leave to future explorers of these distant regions to discover whether
it is a production of nature or art. Perhaps the hints I have here given
might lead to a more perfect investigation of it, and give us very
different ideas of the ancient state of realms that we at present
believe to have been from the earliest period only the habitations of
savages.

The Mississippi, as far as the entrance of the River St. Croix, thirty
miles above Lake Pepin, is very full of islands; some of which are of a
considerable length. On these, also, grow great numbers of the maple or
sugar tree, and around them vines loaded with grapes creeping to their
very tops. From the Lake upwards few mountains are to be seen, and those
but small. Near the River St. Croix reside three bands of the
Nawdowessie Indians, called the River Bands.

This nation is composed, at present, of eleven bands. They were
originally twelve; but the Assinipoils some years ago revolting, and
separating themselves from the others, there remain only at this time
eleven. Those I met here are termed the River Bands; because they
chiefly dwell near the banks of this River: the other eight are
generally distinguished by the title of the Naudowessies of the Plains,
and inhabit a country that lies more to the westward. The names of the
former are the Nehogatawonahs, the Mawtawbauntowahs, and the
Shahsweentowahs, and consist of about four hundred warriors.

A little before I met with these three bands I fell in with a party of
the Mawtawbauntowahs, amounting to forty warriors and their families.
With these I resided a day or two, during which time five or six of
their number, who had been out on an excursion, returned in great haste,
and acquainted their companions that a large party of the Chipéway
warriors, “enough,” as they expressed themselves, “to swallow them all
up,” were close at their heels, and on the point of attacking their
little camp. The chiefs applied to me, and desired I would put myself at
their head, and lead them out to oppose their enemies. As I was a
stranger, and unwilling to excite the anger of either nation, I knew not
how to act; and never found myself in a greater dilemma. Had I refused
to assist the Naudowessies I should have drawn on myself their
displeasure, or had I met the Chipéways with hostile intentions, I
should have made that people my foes, and had I been fortunate enough to
have escaped their arrows at this time, on some future occasion should
probably have experienced the severity of their revenge. In this
extremity I chose the middle course, and desired that the Naudowessies
would suffer me to meet them, that I might endeavour to avert their
fury. To this they reluctantly assented, being persuaded, from the
inveteracy which had long prevailed between them, that my remonstrances
would be in vain.

Taking my Frenchman with me, who could speak their language, I hastened
towards the place where the Chipéways were supposed to be. The
Naudowessies during this kept at a distance behind. As I approached them
with the pipe of peace, a small party of their chiefs, consisting of
about eight or ten, came in a friendly manner towards me; with whom, by
means of my interpreter, I held a long conversation; the result of which
was, that their rancour being by my persuasions in some measure
mollified, they agreed to return back without accomplishing their savage
purposes. During our discourse I could perceive, as they lay scattered
about, that the party was very numerous, and many of them armed with
muskets.

Having happily succeeded in my undertaking, I returned without delay to
the Naudowessies, and desired they would instantly remove their camp to
some other part of the country, lest their enemies should repent of the
promise they had given, and put their intentions in execution. They
accordingly followed my advice, and immediately prepared to strike their
tents. Whilst they were doing this they loaded me with thanks; and when
I had seen them on board their canoes I pursued my route.

To this adventure I was chiefly indebted for the friendly reception I
afterwards met with from the Naudowessies of the Plains, and for the
respect and honours I received during my abode among them. And when I
arrived many months after at the Chipéway village, near the Ottowaw
lakes, I found that my fame had reached that place before me. The chiefs
received me with great cordiality, and the elder part of them thanked me
for the mischief I had prevented. They informed me, that the war between
their nation and the Naudowessies had continued without interruption for
more than forty winters. That they had long wished to put an end to it,
but this was generally prevented by the young warriors of either nation,
who could not restrain their ardour when they met. They said, they
should be happy if some chief of the same pacific disposition as myself,
and who possessed an equal degree of resolution and coolness, would
settle in the country between the two nations; for by the interference
of such a person an accommodation, which on their parts they sincerely
desired, might be brought about. As I did not meet any of the
Naudowessies afterwards, I had not an opportunity of forwarding so good
a work.

About thirty miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, at which I arrived
the tenth day after I left Lake Pepin, is a remarkable cave of an
amazing depth. The Indians term it Wakon-teebe, that is, the Dwelling of
the Great Spirit. The entrance into it is about ten feet wide, the
height of it five feet. The arch within is near fifteen feet high and
about thirty feet broad. The bottom of it consists of fine clear sand.
About twenty feet from the entrance begins a lake, the water of which is
transparent, and extends to an unsearchable distance; for the darkness
of the cave prevents all attempts to acquire a knowledge of it. I threw
a small pebble towards the interior parts of it with my utmost strength:
I could hear that it fell into the water, and notwithstanding it was of
so small a size, it caused an astonishing and horrible noise that
reverberated through all those gloomy regions. I found in this cave many
Indian hieroglyphicks, which appeared very ancient, for time had nearly
covered them with moss, so that it was with difficulty I could trace
them. They were cut in a rude manner upon the inside of the walls, which
were composed of a stone so extremely soft that it might be easily
penetrated with a knife: a stone every where to be found near the
Mississippi. The cave is only accessible by ascending a narrow, steep
passage that lies near the brink of the river.

At a little distance from this dreary cavern is the burying-place of
several bands of the Naudowessie Indians: though these people have no
fixed residence, living in tents, and abiding but a few months on one
spot, yet they always bring the bones of their dead to this place; which
they take the opportunity of doing when the chiefs meet to hold their
councils, and to settle all public affairs for the ensuing summer.

Ten miles below the Falls of St. Anthony the River St. Pierre, called by
the natives the Waddapawmenesotor, falls into the Mississippi from the
west. It is not mentioned by Father Hennipin, although a large fair
river: this omission, I conclude, must have proceeded from a small
island that is situated exactly at its entrance, by which the sight of
it is intercepted. I should not have discovered this river myself, had I
not taken a view, when I was searching for it, from the high lands
opposite, which rise to a great height.

Nearly over against this river I was obliged to leave my canoe, on
account of the ice, and travel by land to the Falls of St. Anthony,
where I arrived on the 17th of November. The Mississippi from the St.
Pierre to this place is rather more rapid than I had hitherto found it,
and without islands of any consideration.

Before I left my canoe I overtook a young prince of the Winnebago
Indians, who was going on an embassy to some of the bands of the
Naudowessies. Finding that I intended to take a view of the Falls, he
agreed to accompany me, his curiosity having been often excited by the
accounts he had received from some of his chiefs: he accordingly left
his family (for the Indians never travel without their households) at
this place, under the care of my Mohawk servant, and we proceeded
together by land, attended only by my Frenchman, to this celebrated
place.

We could distinctly hear the noise of the water full fifteen miles
before we reached the Falls; and I was greatly pleased and surprized,
when I approached this astonishing work of nature: but I was not long at
liberty to indulge these emotions, my attention being called off by the
behaviour of my companion.

The prince had no sooner gained the point that overlooks this wonderful
cascade, than he began with an audible voice to address the Great
Spirit, one of whose places of residence he imagined this to be. He told
him that he had come a long way to pay his adorations to him, and now
would make him the best offerings in his power. He accordingly first
threw his pipe into the stream; then the roll that contained his
tobacco; after these, the bracelets he wore on his arms and wrists; next
an ornament that encircled his neck, composed of beads and wires; and at
last the ear-rings from his ears; in short, he presented to his god
every part of his dress that was valuable: during this he frequently
smote his breast with great violence, threw his arms about, and appeared
to be much agitated.

All this while he continued his adorations, and at length concluded them
with fervent petitions that the Great Spirit would constantly afford us
his protection on our travels, giving us a bright sun, a blue sky, and
clear untroubled waters: nor would he leave the place till we had
smoaked together with my pipe in honour of the Great Spirit.

I was greatly surprized at beholding an instance of such elevated
devotion in so young an Indian, and instead of ridiculing the ceremonies
attending it, as I observed my catholic servant tacitly did, I looked on
the prince with a greater degree of respect for these sincere proofs he
gave of his piety; and I doubt not but that his offerings and prayers
were as acceptable to the universal Parent of mankind, as if they had
been made with greater pomp, or in a consecrated place.

Indeed, the whole conduct of this young prince at once amazed and
charmed me. During the few days we were together his attention seemed
totally to be employed in yielding me every assistance in his power; and
even in so short a time he gave me innumerable proofs of the most
generous and disinterested friendship; so that on our return I parted
from him with great reluctance. Whilst I beheld the artless, yet
engaging manners of this unpolished savage, I could not help drawing a
comparison between him and some of the more refined inhabitants of
civilized countries, not much, I own, in favour of the latter.

The Falls of St. Anthony received their name from Father Louis Hennipin,
a French missionary, who travelled into these parts about the year 1680,
and was the first European ever seen by the natives. This amazing body
of waters, which are above 250 yards over, form a most pleasing
cataract; they fall perpendicularly about thirty feet, and the rapids
below, in the space of 300 yards more, render the descent considerably
greater; so that when viewed at a distance they appear to be much higher
than they really are. The above-mentioned traveller has laid them down
at above sixty feet; but he has made a greater error in calculating the
height of the Falls of Niagara; which he asserts to be 600 feet; whereas
from latter observations accurately made, it is well known that it does
not exceed 140 feet. But the good father I fear too often had no other
foundation for his accounts than report, or, at best, a slight
inspection.

In the middle of the Falls stands a small island, about forty feet broad
and somewhat longer, on which grow a few cragged hemlock and spruce
trees; and about half way between this island and the eastern shore is a
rock, lying at the very edge of the Fall, in an oblique position, that
appeared to be about five or six feet broad, and thirty or forty long.
These Falls vary much from all the others I have seen, as you may
approach close to them without finding the least obstruction from any
intervening hill or precipice.

The country around them is extremely beautiful. It is not an
uninterrupted plain where the eye finds no relief, but composed of many
gentle ascents, which in the summer are covered with the finest verdure,
and interspersed with little groves, that give a pleasing variety to the
prospect. On the whole, when the Falls are included, which may be seen
at the distance of four miles, a more pleasing and picturesque view
cannot, I believe, be found throughout the universe. I could have wished
that I had happened to enjoy this glorious sight at a more seasonable
time of the year, whilst the trees and hillocks were clad in nature’s
gayest livery, as this must have greatly added to the pleasure I
received; however, even then it exceeded my warmest expectations. I have
endeavoured to give the Reader as just an idea of this enchanting spot
as possible, in the plan annexed; but all description, whether of the
pencil or the pen, must fall infinitely short of the original.

[Illustration:

  Survey’d by Cap^t. Carver, Nov^r. 17, 1766. M. A. Rooker Sculp^t.

  _Height of the Fall 30 feet Perpend^r._

  _The falls of_ S^t. Anthony _in the River MISSISSIPPI,
  near 2400 Miles from its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico._

  _Breadth, near 600 feet._
]

At a little distance below the Falls stands a small island, of about an
acre and half, on which grow a great number of oak trees, every branch
of which, able to support the weight, was full of eagles nests. The
reason that this kind of birds resort in such numbers to this spot, is
that they are here secure from the attacks either of man or beast, their
retreat being guarded by the Rapids, which the Indians never attempt to
pass. Another reason is, that they find a constant supply of food for
themselves and their young, from the animals and fish which are dashed
to pieces by the Falls, and driven on the adjacent shore.

Having satisfied my curiosity, as far as the eye of man can be
satisfied, I proceeded on, still accompanied by my young friend, till I
had reached the River St. Francis, near sixty miles above the Falls. To
this river Father Hennipin gave the name of St. Francis, and this was
the extent of his travels, as well as mine, towards the north-west. As
the season was so advanced, and the weather extremely cold, I was not
able to make so many observations on these parts as I otherwise should
have done.

It might however, perhaps, be necessary to observe, that in the little
tour I made about the Falls, after travelling fourteen miles, by the
side of the Mississippi, I came to a river nearly twenty yards wide,
which ran from the north-east, called Rum River. And on the 20th of
November came to another termed Goose River, about twelve yards wide. On
the 21st I arrived at the St. Francis, which is about thirty yards wide.
Here the Mississippi itself grows narrow, being not more than ninety
yards over; and appears to be chiefly composed of small branches. The
ice prevented me from noticing the depth of any of these three rivers.

The country in some places is hilly, but without large mountains; and
the land is tolerably good. I observed here many deer and carribboos,
some elk, with abundance of beavers, otters, and other furs. A little
above this, to the north-east, are a number of small lakes called the
Thousand Lakes; the parts about which, though but little frequented, are
the best within many miles for hunting, as the hunter never fails of
returning loaded beyond his expectations.

The Mississippi has never been explored higher up than the River St.
Francis, and only by Father Hennipin and myself thus far. So that we are
obliged solely to the Indians, for all the intelligence we are able to
give relative to the more northern parts. As this River is not navigable
from the sea for vessels of any considerable burthen, much higher up
than the Forks of the Ohio, and even that is accomplished with great
difficulty, owing to the rapidity of the current, and the windings of
the river, those settlements that may be made on the interior branches
of it, must be indisputably secure from the attacks of any maritime
power. But at the same time the settlers will have the advantage of
being able to convey their produce to the sea-ports with great facility,
the current of the river from its source to its entrance into the Gulph
of Mexico, being extremely favourable for doing this in small craft.
This might also in time be facilitated by canals or shorter cuts; and a
communication opened by water with New York, Canada, &c. by way of the
lakes. The Forks of the Ohio are about nine hundred miles from the mouth
of the Mississippi, following the course of the river; and the Messorie
two hundred miles above these. From the latter it is about twenty miles
to the Illinois River, and from that to the Ouisconsin, which I have
given an account of, about eight hundred more.

On the 25th I returned to my canoe, which I had left at the mouth of the
River St. Pierre; and here I parted with regret from my young friend the
prince of the Winnebagoes. This river being clear of ice by reason of
its southern situation, I found nothing to obstruct my passage. On the
28th, being advanced about forty miles, I arrived at a small branch that
fell into it from the north; to which, as it had no name that I could
distinguish it by, I gave my own; and the Reader will find it in the
plan of my travels denominated Carver’s River. About forty miles higher
up I came to the Forks of Verd and Red Marble Rivers, which join at some
little distance before they enter the St. Pierre.

The River St. Pierre, at its junction with the Mississippi, is about a
hundred yards broad, and continues that breadth nearly all the way I
sailed upon it. It has a great depth of water, and in some places runs
very briskly. About fifty miles from its mouth are some rapids, and much
higher up there are many others.

I proceeded up this river about two hundred miles to the country of the
Naudowessies of the Plains, which lies a little above the Forks formed
by the Verd and Red Marble Rivers, just mentioned, where a branch from
the south nearly joins the Messorie River. By the accounts I received
from the Indians, I have reason to believe that the River St. Pierre and
the Messorie, though they enter the Mississippi twelve hundred miles
from each other, take their rise in the same neighbourhood; and this
within the space of a mile. The River St. Pierre’s northern branch rises
from a number of lakes near the shining mountains; and it is from some
of these, also, that a capital branch of the River Bourbon, which runs
into Hudson’s Bay, has its sources.

From the intelligence I gained from the Naudowessie Indians, among whom
I arrived the 7th of December, and whose language I perfectly acquired
during a residence of five months; and also from the accounts I
afterwards obtained from the Assinipoils, who speak the same tongue,
being a revolted band of the Naudowessies; and from the Killistinoes,
neighbours of the Assinipoils, who speak the Chipéway language, and
inhabit the heads of the River Bourbon; I say from these nations,
together with my own observations, I have learned that the four most
capital rivers on the Continent of North America, viz. the St. Lawrence,
the Mississippi, the River Bourbon, and the Oregon or the River of the
West (as I hinted in my Introduction) have their sources in the same
neighbourhood. The waters of the three former are within thirty miles of
each other; the latter, however, is rather farther west.

This shews that these parts are the highest lands in North America; and
it is an instance not to be paralleled on the other three quarters of
the globe, that four rivers of such magnitude should take their rise
together, and each, after running separate courses, discharge their
waters into different oceans at the distance of two thousand miles from
their sources. For in their passage from this spot to the bay of St.
Lawrence, east, to the bay of Mexico, south, to Hudson’s Bay, north, and
to the bay at the Straights of Annian, west, each of these traverse
upwards of two thousand miles.

I shall here give my Readers such reflections as occurred to me, when I
had received this interesting information, and had, by numberless
inquiries, ascertained the truth of it; that is, as far as it was
possible to arrive at a certainty without a personal investigation.

It is well known that the Colonies, particularly those of New England
and Canada, are greatly affected, about the time their winter sets in,
by a north-west wind, which continues for several months, and renders
the cold much more intense there than it is in the interior parts of
America. This I can, from my own knowledge, assert, as I found the
winter, that I passed to the westward of the Mississippi, far from
severe; and the north-west wind blowing on those countries considerably
more temperate than I have often experienced it to be nearer the coast.
And that this did not arise from an uncertainty of the seasons, but was
annually the case, I conclude, both from the small quantity of snow that
then fell, and a total disuse of snow shoes by these Indians, without
which none of the more eastern nations can possibly travel during the
winter.

As naturalists observe, that air resembles water in many respects,
particularly by often flowing in a compact body; and that this is
generally remarked to be with the current of large streams, and seldom
across them, may not the winds that set violently into the Bay of Mexico
about the latter end of the year, take their course over the continent
in the same direction as the Mississippi does; till meeting with the
north winds (that from a similar cause blow up the Bourbon from Hudson’s
Bay) they are forced across the great lakes, down the current of the
waters of the St. Lawrence, and united, commit those ravages, and
occasion those severe winters, experienced in the before-mentioned
countries? During their progress over the lakes they become expanded,
and consequently affect a greater tract of land than they otherwise
would do.

According to my scanty knowledge of natural philosophy this does not
appear improbable. Whether it is agreeable to the laws established by
naturalists to account for the operations of that element, I know not.
However, the description here given of the situation of these vast
bodies of water, and their near approach to each other, with my own
undigested suppositions of their effect on the winds, may prove perhaps,
in abler hands, the means of leading to many useful discoveries.

On the 7th of December, I arrived (as I said before) at the utmost
extent of my travels towards the west; where I met with a large party of
the Naudowessie Indians, among whom I resided seven months. These
constituted a part of the eight bands of the Naudowessies of the Plains;
and are termed the Wawpeentowahs, the Tintons, the Asrahcootans, the
Mawhaws, and the Schians. The other three bands, whose names are the
Schianese, the Chongousceton, and the Waddapawjestin, dwell higher up,
to the west of the River St. Pierre, on plains that, according to their
account, are unbounded; and probably terminate on the coast of the
Pacific Ocean. The Naudowessie nation, when united, consists of more
than two thousand warriors. The Assinipoils, who revolted from them,
amount to about three hundred; and leagued with the Killistinoes, live
in a continual state of enmity with the other eleven bands.

As I proceeded up the River St. Pierre, and had nearly reached the place
where these people were encamped, I observed two or three canoes coming
down the stream; but no sooner had the Indians that were on board them
discovered us, than they rowed toward the land, and leaping ashore with
precipitation, left their canoes to float as the current drove them. In
a few minutes I perceived some others; who, as soon as they came in
sight, followed, with equal speed, the example of their countrymen.

I now thought it necessary to proceed with caution; and therefore kept
on the side of the river opposite to that on which the Indians had
landed. However, I still continued my course, satisfied that the pipe of
Peace which was fixed at the head of my canoe, and the English colours
that were flying at the stern, would prove my security. After rowing
about half a mile farther, in turning a point, I discovered a great
number of tents, and more than a thousand Indians, at a little distance
from the shore. Being now nearly opposite to them, I ordered my men to
pull directly over, as I was willing to convince the Indians by such a
step, that I placed some confidence in them.

As soon as I had reached the land, two of the chiefs presented their
hands to me, and led me, amidst the astonished multitude, who had most
of them never seen a white man before, to a tent. Into this we entered,
and according to the custom that universally prevails among every Indian
nation, began to smoke the pipe of Peace. We had not sat long before the
crowd became so great, both around, and upon the tent, that we were in
danger of being crushed by its fall. On this we returned to the plain,
where, having gratified the curiosity of the common people, their wonder
abated, and ever after they treated me with great respect.

From the chiefs I met with the most friendly and hospitable reception;
which induced me, as the season was so far advanced, to take up my
residence among them during the winter. To render my stay as comfortable
as possible, I first endeavoured to learn their language. This I soon
did, so as to make myself perfectly intelligible, having before acquired
some slight knowledge of the language of those Indians that live on the
back of the settlements; and in consequence met with every accommodation
their manner of living would afford. Nor did I want for such amusements
as tended to make so long a period pass cheerfully away. I frequently
hunted with them; and at other times beheld with pleasure their
recreations and pastimes, which I shall describe hereafter.

Sometimes I sat with the chiefs, and whilst we smoked the friendly pipe,
entertained them, in return for the accounts they gave me of their wars
and excursions, with a narrative of my own adventures and a description
of all the battles fought between the English and the French in America,
in many of which I had a personal share. They always paid great
attention to my details, and asked many pertinent questions relative to
the European methods of making war.

I held these conversations with them in a great measure to procure from
them some information relative to the chief point I had constantly in
view, that of gaining a knowledge of the situation and produce, both of
their own country, and those that lay to the westward of them. Nor was I
disappointed in my designs; for I procured from them much useful
intelligence. They likewise drew for me plans of all the countries with
which they were acquainted; but as I entertained no great opinion of
their geographical knowledge, I placed not much dependence on them, and
therefore think it unnecessary to give them to the public. Such as I
afterwards found confirmed, by other accounts, or by my own
observations, make a part of the map prefixed to this work. They draw
with a piece of burnt coal, taken from the hearth, upon the inside bark
of the birch tree; which is as smooth as paper, and answers the same
purposes, notwithstanding it is of a yellow cast. Their sketches are
made in a rude manner, but they seem to give as just an idea of a
country, although the plan is not so exact, as more experienced
draughtsmen could do.

I left the habitations of these hospitable Indians the latter end of
April 1767; but did not part from them for several days, as I was
accompanied on my journey by near three hundred of them, among whom were
many chiefs, to the mouth of the River St. Pierre. At this season, these
bands annually go to the Great Cave, before mentioned, to hold a grand
council with all the other bands; wherein they settle their operations
for the ensuing year. At the same time they carry with them their dead
for interment bound up in buffaloes skins. Besides those that
accompanied me, others were gone before, and the rest were to follow.

Never did I travel with so cheerful and happy a company. But their mirth
met with a hidden and temporary allay from a violent storm that overtook
us one day on our passage. We had just landed, and were preparing to set
up our tents for the night, when a heavy cloud overspread the heavens,
and the most dreadful thunder, lightning, and rain issued from it, that
ever I beheld.

The Indians were greatly terrified, and ran to such shelter as they
could find; for only a few tents were as yet erected. Apprehensive of
the danger that might ensue from standing near any thing which could
serve for a conductor, as the cloud appeared to contain such an uncommon
quantity of the electrical fluid, I took my stand as far as possible
from any covering; chusing rather to be exposed to the peltings of the
storm than to receive a fatal stroke. At this the Indians were greatly
surprized, and drew conclusions from it not unfavourable to the opinion
they already entertained of my resolution. Yet I acknowledge that I was
never more affected in my life; for nothing scarcely could exceed the
terrific scene. The peals of thunder were so loud that they shook the
earth; and the lightning flashed along the ground in streams of sulphur;
so that the Indian chiefs themselves, although their courage in war is
usually invincible, could not help trembling at the horrid combustion.
As soon as the storm was over, they flocked around me, and informed me,
that it was a proof of the anger of the evil spirits, whom they were
apprehensive that they had highly offended.

When we arrived at the Great Cave, and the Indians had deposited the
remains of their deceased friends in the burial-place that stands
adjacent to it, they held their great council, into which I was
admitted, and at the same time had the honour to be installed or adopted
a chief of their bands. On this occasion I made the following speech,
which I insert to give my Readers a specimen of the language and manner
in which it is necessary to address the Indians, so as to engage their
attention, and to render the speaker’s expressions consonant to their
ideas. It was delivered on the first day of May 1767.

“My brothers, chiefs of the numerous and powerful Naudowessies! I
rejoice that through my long abode with you, I can now speak to you
(though after an imperfect manner) in your own tongue, like one of your
own children. I rejoice also that I have had an opportunity so
frequently to inform you of the glory and power of the Great King that
reigns over the English and other nations; who is descended from a very
ancient race of sovereigns, as old as the earth and waters; whose feet
stand on two great islands, larger than any you have ever seen, amidst
the greatest waters in the world; whose head reaches to the sun, and
whose arms encircle the whole earth. The number of whose warriors are
equal to the trees in the vallies, the stalks of rice in yonder marshes,
or the blades of grass on your great plains. Who has hundreds of canoes
of his own, of such amazing bigness, that all the waters in your country
would not suffice for one of them to swim in; each of which have guns,
not small like mine which you see before you, but of such magnitude,
that a hundred of your stoutest young men would with difficulty be able
to carry one. And these are equally surprizing in their operation
against the great king’s enemies when engaged in battle; the terror they
carry with them your language wants words to express. You may remember
the other day when we were encamping at Wadawpawmenesoter, the black
clouds, the wind, the fire, the stupendous noise, the horrible cracks,
and the trembling of the earth which then alarmed you, and gave you
reason to think your gods were angry with you; not unlike these are the
warlike implements of the English when they are fighting the battles of
their great King.

“Several of the chiefs of your bands have often told me, in times past,
when I dwelt with you in your tents, that they much wished to be counted
among the children and allies of the great King my master. You may
remember how often you have desired me, when I return again to my own
country, to acquaint the great King of your good disposition towards him
and his subjects, and that you wished for traders from the English to
come among you. Being now about to take my leave of you, and to return
to my own country, a long way towards the rising sun, I again ask you to
tell me whether you continue of the same mind as when I spoke to you in
council last winter; and as there are now several of your chiefs here,
who came from the great plains towards the setting of the sun, whom I
have never spoke with in council before, I ask you to let me know if you
are all willing to acknowledge yourselves the children of my great
master the King of the English and other nations, as I shall take the
first opportunity to acquaint him of your desires and good intentions. I
charge you not to give heed to bad reports; for there are wicked birds
flying about among the neighbouring nations, who may whisper evil things
in your ears against the English, contrary to what I have told you; you
must not believe them, for I have told you the truth.

“And as for the chiefs that are about to go to Michillimackinac, I shall
take care to make for them and their suite, a straight road, smooth
waters, and a clear sky; that they may go there, and smoke the pipe of
Peace, and rest secure on a beaver blanket under the shade of the great
tree of peace. Farewell!”

To this speech I received the following answer, from the mouth of the
principal chief:

“Good brother! I am now about to speak to you with the mouths of these
my brothers, chiefs of the eight bands of the powerful nation of the
Naudowessies. We believe and are well satisfied in the truth of every
thing you have told us about your great nation, and the Great King our
greatest father; for whom we spread this beaver blanket, that his
fatherly protection may ever rest easy and safe amongst us his children:
your colours and your arms agree with the accounts you have given us
about your great nation. We desire that when you return, you will
acquaint the Great King how much the Naudowessies wish to be counted
among his good children. You may believe us when we tell you that we
will not open our ears to any who may dare to speak evil of our Great
Father the King of the English and other nations.

“We thank you for what you have done for us in making peace between the
Naudowessies and the Chipéways, and hope when you return to us again,
that you will complete this good work; and quite dispelling the clouds
that intervene, open the blue sky of peace, and cause the bloody hatchet
to be deep buried under the roots of the great tree of peace.

“We wish you to remember to represent to our Great Father, how much we
desire that traders may be sent to abide among us, with such things as
we need, that the hearts of our young men, our wives, and children may
be made glad. And may peace subsist between us, so long as the sun, the
moon, the earth, and the waters shall endure. Farewell.”

I thought it necessary to caution the Indians against giving heed to any
bad reports that may reach them from the neighbouring nations to the
disadvantage of the English, as I had heard, at different places through
which I passed, that emissaries were still employed by the French to
detach those who were friendly to the English from their interest. And I
saw, myself, several belts of Wampum that had been delivered for this
purpose to some of the tribes I was among. On the delivery of each of
these a Talk was held, wherein the Indians were told that the English,
who were but a petty people, had stolen that country from their Great
Father the king of France whilst he was asleep; but that he would soon
awake, and take them again under his protection. These I found were sent
from Canada by persons who appeared to be well affected towards the
government under which they lived.

Whilst I tarried at the mouth of the River St. Pierre with these
friendly Indians, I endeavoured to gain intelligence whether any goods
had been sent towards the Falls of St. Anthony for my use, agreeable to
the promise I had received from the governor when I left
Michillimackinac. But finding from some Indians, who passed by in their
return from those parts, that this agreement had not been fulfilled, I
was obliged to give up all thoughts of proceeding farther to the
north-west by this route, according to my original plan. I therefore
returned to La Prairie le Chien, where I procured as many goods from the
traders I left there the preceding year as they could spare.

As these however were not sufficient to enable me to renew my first
design, I determined to endeavour to make my way across the country of
the Chipéways to Lake Superior; in hopes of meeting at the Grand Portage
on the north side of it, the traders that annually go from
Michillimackinac to the north-west; of whom I doubted not but that I
should be able to procure goods enough to answer my purpose, and also to
penetrate through those more northern parts to the Straights of Annian.

And I the more readily returned to La Prairie le Chien, as I could by
that means the better fulfil the engagement I had made to the party of
Naudowessies mentioned at the conclusion of my speech. During my abode
with this people, wishing to secure them entirely in the interest of the
English, I had advised some of the chiefs to go to Michillimackinac,
where they would have an opportunity of trading, and of hearing the
accounts that I had entertained them with of my countrymen confirmed. At
the same time I had furnished them with a recommendation to the
governor, and given them every direction necessary for their voyage.

In consequence of this one of the principal chiefs, and twenty-five of
an inferior rank, agreed to go the ensuing summer. This they took an
opportunity of doing when they came with the rest of their band to
attend the grand council at the mouth of the River St. Pierre. Being
obliged, on account of the disappointment I had just been informed of,
to return so far down the Mississippi, I could from thence the more
easily set them on their journey.

As the intermediate parts of this river are much frequented by the
Chipéways, with whom the Naudowessies are continually at war, they
thought it more prudent, being but a small party, to take the advantage
of the night, than to travel with me by day; accordingly no sooner was
the grand council broke up, than I took a friendly leave of these
people, from whom I had received innumerable civilities, and pursued
once more my voyage.

I reached the eastern side of Lake Pepin the same night, where I went
ashore and encamped as usual. The next morning, when I had proceeded
some miles farther, I perceived at a distance before me a smoke, which
denoted that some Indians were near; and in a short time discovered ten
or twelve tents not far from the bank of the river. As I was
apprehensive that this was a party of the Rovers I had before met with,
I knew not what course to pursue. My attendants persuaded me to
endeavour to pass by them on the opposite side of the river; but as I
had hitherto found that the best way to ensure a friendly reception from
the Indians is to meet them boldly, and without shewing any tokens of
fear, I would by no means consent to their proposal. Instead of this I
crossed directly over, and landed in the midst of them, for by this time
the greatest part of them were standing on the shore.

The first I accosted were Chipéways inhabiting near the Ottowaw lakes;
who received me with great cordiality, and shook me by the hand in token
of friendship. At some little distance behind these stood a chief
remarkably tall and well made, but of so stern an aspect that the most
undaunted person could not behold him without feeling some degree of
terror. He seemed to have passed the meridian of life, and by the mode
in which he was painted and tatowed, I discovered that he was of high
rank. However, I approached him in a courteous manner, and expected to
have met with the same reception I had done from the others: but to my
great surprize he with-held his hand, and looking fiercely at me, said
in the Chipéway tongue, “Cawin nishishin saganosh,” that is, “The
English are no good.” As he had his tomahawk in his hand, I expected
that this laconick sentence would have been followed by a blow; to
prevent which I drew a pistol from my belt, and, holding it in a
careless position, passed close by him, to let him see I was not afraid
of him.

I learned soon after from the other Indians, that this was a chief,
called by the French the Grand Sautor, or the Great Chipéway Chief, for
they denominate the Chipéways Sautors. They likewise told me that he had
been always a steady friend to that people, and when they delivered up
Michillimackinac to the English on their evacuation of Canada, the Grand
Sautor had sworn that he would ever remain the avowed enemy of its new
possessors, as the territories on which the fort is built belonged to
him.

Finding him thus disposed, I took care to be constantly upon my guard
whilst I staid; but that he might not suppose I was driven away by his
frowns, I took up my abode there for the night. I pitched my tent at
some distance from the Indians, and had no sooner laid myself down to
rest, than I was awakened by my French servant. Having been alarmed by
the sound of Indian music, he had run to the outside of the tent, where
he beheld a party of the young savages dancing towards us in an
extraordinary manner, each carrying in his hand a torch fixed on the top
of a long pole. But I shall defer any further account of this uncommon
entertainment, which at once surprized and alarmed me, till I treat of
the Indian dances.

The next morning I continued my voyage, and before night reached La
Prairie le Chien; at which place the party of Naudowessies soon overtook
me. Not long after the Grand Sautor also arrived, and before the
Naudowessies left that place to continue their journey to
Michillimackinac, he found means, in conjunction with some French
traders from Louisiana, to draw from me about ten of the Naudowessie
chiefs, whom he prevailed upon to go towards those parts.

The remainder proceeded, according to my directions, to the English
fort; from whence I afterwards heard that they returned to their own
country without any unfortunate accident befalling them, and greatly
pleased with the reception they had met with. Whilst not more than half
of those who went to the southward, through the difference of that
southern climate from their own, lived to reach their abode. And since I
came to England I have been informed, that the Grand Sautor having
rendered himself more and more disgustful to the English by his
inveterate enmity towards them, was at length stabbed in his tent, as he
encamped near Michillimackinac, by a trader to whom I had related the
foregoing story.

I should have remarked, that whatever Indians happen to meet at La
Prairie le Chien, the great mart to which all who inhabit the adjacent
countries resort, though the nations to which they belong are at war
with each other, yet they are obliged to restrain their enmity, and to
forbear all hostile acts during their stay there. This regulation has
been long established among them for their mutual convenience, as
without it no trade could be carried on. The same rule is observed also
at the Red Mountain (afterwards described) from whence they get the
stone of which they make their pipes: these being indispensable to the
accommodation of every neighbouring tribe, a similar restriction becomes
needful, and is of public utility.

The River St. Pierre, which runs through the territories of the
Naudowessies, flows through a most delightful country, abounding with
all the necessaries of life, that grow spontaneously; and with a little
cultivation it might be made to produce even the luxuries of life. Wild
rice grows here in great abundance; and every part is filled with trees
bending under their loads of fruits, such as plums, grapes, and apples;
the meadows are covered with hops, and many sorts of vegetables; whilst
the ground is stored with useful roots, with angelica, spikenard, and
ground-nuts as large as hens eggs. At a little distance from the sides
of the river are eminences, from which you have views that cannot be
exceeded even by the most beautiful of those I have already described;
amidst these are delightful groves, and such amazing quantities of
maples, that they would produce sugar sufficient for any number of
inhabitants.

A little way from the mouth of this river, on the north side of it,
stands a hill, one part of which, that towards the Mississippi, is
composed entirely of white stone, of the same soft nature as that I have
before described; for such, indeed, is all the stone in this country.
But what appears remarkable is, that the colour of it is as white as the
driven snow. The outward part of it was crumbled by the wind and weather
into heaps of sand, of which a beautiful composition might be made; or,
I am of opinion that, when properly treated, the stone itself would grow
harder by time, and have a very noble effect in architecture.

Near that branch which is termed the Marble River, is a mountain, from
whence the Indians get a sort of red stone, out of which they hew the
bowls of their pipes. In some of these parts is found a black hard clay,
or rather stone, of which the Naudowessies make their family utensils.
This country likewise abounds with a milk-white clay, of which China
ware might be made equal in goodness to the Asiatic; and also with a
blue clay that serves the Indians for paint; with this last they
contrive, by mixing it with the red stone powdered, to paint themselves
of different colours. Those that can get the blue clay here mentioned,
paint themselves very much with it; particularly when they are about to
begin their sports and pastimes. It is also esteemed by them a mark of
peace, as it has a resemblance of a blue sky, which with them is a
symbol of it, and made use of in their speeches as a figurative
expression to denote peace. When they wish to shew that their
inclinations are pacific towards other tribes, they greatly ornament
both themselves and their belts with it.

Having concluded my business at La Prairie le Chien, I proceeded once
more up the Mississippi as far as the place where the Chipéway River
enters it a little below Lake Pepin. Here, having engaged an Indian
pilot, I directed him to steer towards the Ottawaw Lakes which lie near
the head of this river. This he did, and I arrived at them the beginning
of July.

The Chipéway River, at its junction with the Mississippi, is about
eighty yards wide, but is much wider as you advance into it. Near thirty
miles up it separates into two branches, and I took my course through
that which lies to the eastward.

The country adjoining to the river, for about sixty miles, is very
level, and on its banks lie fine meadows, where larger droves of
buffaloes and elks were feeding, than I had observed in any other part
of my travels. The track between the two branches of this river is
termed the Road of War between the Chipéway and Naudowessie Indians.

The country to the Falls marked in the plan at the extent of the traders
travels, is almost without any timber, and above that very uneven and
rugged, and closely wooded with pines, beech, maple, and birch. Here a
most remarkable and astonishing sight presented itself to my view. In a
wood, on the east of the river, which was about three quarters of a mile
in length, and in depth farther than my eye could reach, I observed that
every tree, many of which were more than six feet in circumference, was
lying flat on the ground torn up by the roots. This appeared to have
been done by some extraordinary hurricane that came from the west some
years ago, but how many I could not learn, as I found no inhabitants
near it, of whom I could gain information. The country on the west side
of the river, from being less woody, had escaped in a great measure this
havock, as only a few trees were blown down.

Near the heads of this river is a town of the Chipéways, from whence it
takes its name. It is situated on each side of the river (which at this
place is of no considerable breadth) and lies adjacent to the banks of a
small lake. This town contains about forty houses, and can send out
upwards of one hundred warriors, many of whom were fine stout young men.
The houses of it are built after the Indian manner, and have neat
plantations behind them; but the inhabitants, in general, seemed to be
the nastiest people I had ever been among. I observed that the women and
children indulged themselves in a custom, which though common, in some
degree, throughout every Indian nation, appears to be, according to our
ideas, of the most nauseous and indelicate nature; that of searching
each other’s head, and eating the prey caught therein.

In July I left this town, and having crossed a number of small lakes and
carrying places that intervened, came to a head branch of the River St.
Croix. This branch I descended to a fork, and then ascended another to
its source. On both these rivers I discovered several mines of virgin
copper, which was as pure as that found in any other country.

Here I came to a small brook, which my guide thought might be joined at
some distance by streams that would at length render it navigable. The
water at first was so scanty, that my canoe would by no means swim in
it; but having stopped up several old beaver dams which had been broken
down by the hunters, I was enabled to proceed for some miles, till by
the conjunction of a few brooks, these aids became no longer necessary.
In a short time the water increased to a most rapid river, which we
descended till it entered into Lake Superior. This river I named after a
gentleman that desired to accompany me from the town of the Ottagaumies
to the Carrying Place on Lake Superior, Goddard’s River.

To the west of this is another small river, which also empties itself
into the Lake. This I termed Strawberry River, from the great number of
strawberries of a good size and fine flavour that grew on its banks.

The country from the Ottawaw Lakes to Lake Superior is in general very
uneven and thickly covered with woods. The soil in some places tolerably
good, in others but indifferent. In the heads of the St. Croix and the
Chipéway Rivers are exceeding fine sturgeon. All the wilderness between
the Mississippi and Lake Superior is called by the Indians the
Moschettoe country, and I thought it most justly named; for, it being
then their season, I never saw or felt so many of those insects in my
life.

The latter end of July I arrived, after having coasted through West Bay,
at the Grand Portage, which lies on the north-west borders of Lake
Superior. Here those who go on the north-west trade, to the Lakes De
Pluye, Dubois, &c. carry over their canoes and baggage about nine miles,
till they come to a number of small lakes, the waters of some of which
descend into Lake Superior, and others into the River Bourbon. Lake
Superior from West Bay to this place is bounded by rocks, except towards
the south-west part of the Bay where I first entered it, there it was
tolerably level.

At the Grand Portage is a small bay, before the entrance of which lies
an island that intercepts the dreary and uninterrupted view over the
Lake which otherwise would have presented itself, and makes the bay
serene and pleasant. Here I met a large party of the Killistinoe and
Assinipoil Indians, with their respective kings and their families. They
were come to this place in order to meet the traders from
Michillimackinac, who make this their road to the north-west. From them
I received the following account of the Lakes that lie to the north-west
of Lake Superior.

Lake Bourbon, the most northern of those yet discovered, received its
name from some French traders who accompanied a party of Indians to
Hudson’s Bay some years ago; and was thus denominated by them in honour
of the royal family of France. It is composed of the waters of the
Bourbon River, which, as I have before observed, rises a great way to
the southward, not far from the northern heads of the Mississippi.

This Lake is about eighty miles in length, north and south, and is
nearly circular. It has no very large islands on it. The land on the
eastern side is very good; and to the south-west there are some
mountains: in many other parts there are barren plains, bogs, and
morasses. Its latitude is between fifty-two and fifty-four degrees
north, and it lies nearly south-west from Hudson’s Bay. As through its
northern situation the weather there is extremely cold, only a few
animals are to be found in the country that borders on it. They gave me
but an indifferent account either of the beasts, birds, or fishes. There
are indeed some buffaloes of a small size, which are fat and good about
the latter end of summer, with a few moose and carribboo deer; however
this deficiency is made up by the furs of every sort that are to be met
with in great plenty around the Lake. The timber growing here is chiefly
fir, cedar, spruce, and some maple.

Lake Winnepeek, or as the French write it Lac Ouinipique, which lies
nearest to the foregoing, is composed of the same waters. It is in
length about two hundred miles north and south; its breadth has never
been properly ascertained, but is supposed to be about one hundred miles
in its widest part. This Lake is very full of islands; these are,
however, of no great magnitude. Many considerable rivers empty
themselves into it, which, as yet, are not distinguished by any names.
The waters are stored with fish, such as trout and sturgeon, and also
with others of a smaller kind peculiar to these Lakes.

The land on the south-west part of it is very good, especially about the
entrance of a large branch of the River Bourbon which slows from the
south-west. On this River there is a factory that was built by the
French called Fort La Reine, to which the traders from Michillimackinac
resort to trade with the Assinipoils and Killistinoes. To this place the
Mahahs, who inhabit a country two hundred and fifty miles south-west,
come also to trade with them; and bring great quantities of Indian corn
to exchange for knives, tomahawks, and other articles. These people are
supposed to dwell on some of the branches of the River of the West.

Lake Winnepeek has on the north-east some mountains, and on the east
many barren plains. The maple or sugar tree grows here in great plenty,
and there is likewise gathered an amazing quantity of rice, which proves
that grain will flourish in these northern climates as well as in
warmer. Buffaloes, carribboo, and moose deer, are numerous in these
parts. The buffaloes of this country differ from those that are found
more to the south only in size; the former being much smaller: just as
the black cattle of the northern parts of Great Britain differ from
English oxen.

On the waters that fall into this Lake, the neighbouring nations take
great numbers of excellent furs. Some of these they carry to the
factories and settlements belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company,
situated above the entrance of the Bourbon River: but this they do with
reluctance on several accounts; for some of the Assinipoils and
Killistinoes, who usually traded with the Company’s servants, told me,
that if they could be sure of a constant supply of goods from
Michillimackinac, they would not trade any where else. They shewed me
some cloth and other articles that they had purchased at Hudson’s Bay,
with which they were much dissatisfied, thinking they had been greatly
imposed upon in the barter.

Allowing that their accounts were true, I could not help joining in
their opinion. But this dissatisfaction might probably proceed, in a
great measure, from the intrigues of the Canadian traders: for whilst
the French were in possession of Michillimackinac, having acquired a
thorough knowledge of the trade of the north-west countries, they were
employed on that account, after the reduction of Canada, by the English
traders there, in the establishment of this trade with which they were
themselves quite unacquainted. One of the methods they took to withdraw
these Indians from their attachment to the Hudson’s Bay Company, and to
engage their good opinion in behalf of their new employers, was by
depreciating on all occasions the Company’s goods, and magnifying the
advantages that would arise to them from trafficking entirely with the
Canadian traders. In this they too well succeeded, and from this,
doubtless, did the dissatisfaction the Assinipoils and Killistinoes
expressed to me, partly proceed. But another reason augmented it; and
this was the length of their journey to the Hudson’s Bay factories,
which, they informed me, took them up three months during the summer
heats to go and return, and from the smallness of their canoes they
could not carry more than a third of the beavers they killed. So that it
is not to be wondered at, that these Indians should wish to have traders
come to reside among them. It is true that the parts they inhabit are
within the limits of the Hudson’s Bay territories, but the Company must
be under the necessity of winking at an encroachment of this kind, as
the Indians would without doubt protect the traders when among them.
Besides, the passports granted to the traders that go from
Michillimackinac give them liberty to trade to the north-west about Lake
Superior; by which is meant Fort La Reine, Lake Winnepeek, or any other
parts of the waters of the Bourbon River, where the Couriers de Bois, or
Traders, may make it most convenient to reside.

Lac du Bois, as it is commonly termed by the French in their maps, or in
English the Lake of the Wood, is so called from the multiplicity of wood
growing on its banks; such as oaks, pines, firs, spruce, &c. This Lake
lies still higher up a branch of the River Bourbon, and nearly east from
the south end of Lake Winnepeek. It is of great depth in some places.
Its length from east to west about seventy miles, and its greatest
breadth about forty miles. It has but few islands, and these of no great
magnitude. The fishes, fowls, and quadrupeds that are found near it,
vary but little from those of the other two lakes. A few of the
Killistinoe Indians sometimes encamp on the borders of it to fish and
hunt.

This Lake lies in the communication between Lake Superior, and the Lakes
Winnepeek and Bourbon. Its waters are not esteemed quite so pure as
those of the other lakes, it having, in many places, a muddy bottom.

Lac La Pluye, so called by the French, in English the Rainy Lake, is
supposed to have acquired this name from the first travellers, that
passed over it, meeting with an uncommon deal of rain; or, as some have
affirmed, from a mist like rain occasioned by a perpendicular water-fall
that empties itself into a river which lies to the south-west.

This Lake appears to be divided by an isthmus, near the middle, into two
parts: the west part is called the Great Rainy Lake, the east, the
Little Rainy Lake, as being the least division. It lies a few miles
farther to the eastward, on the same branch of the Bourbon, than the
last-mentioned Lake. It is in general very shallow in its depth. The
broadest part of it is not more than twenty miles, its length, including
both, about three hundred miles. In the west part the water is very
clear and good; and some excellent fish are taken in it. A great many
fowl resort here at the fall of the year. Moose deer are to be found in
great plenty, and likewise the carribboo; whose skin for breeches or
gloves exceeds by far any other to be met with in North-America. The
land on the borders of this Lake is esteemed in some places very good,
but rather too thickly covered with wood. Here reside a considerable
band of the Chipéways.

Eastward from this Lake lie several small ones, which extend in a string
to the great carrying place, and from thence into Lake Superior. Between
these little Lakes are several carrying places, which renders the trade
to the north-west difficult to accomplish, and exceedingly tedious, as
it takes two years to make one voyage from Michillimackinac to these
parts.

Red Lake is a comparatively small lake at the head of a branch of the
Bourbon River, which is called by some Red River. Its form is nearly
round, and about sixty miles in circumference. On one side of it is a
tolerable large island, close by which a small river enters. It bears
almost south-east both from Lake Winnepeek and from Lake du Bois. The
parts adjacent are very little known, or frequented, even by the savages
themselves.

Not far from this Lake, a little to the south-west, is another called
White Bear Lake, which is nearly about the size of the last mentioned.
The waters that compose this Lake are the most northern of any that
supply the Mississippi, and may be called with propriety its most remote
source. It is fed by two or three small rivers or rather large brooks.

A few miles from it, to the south-east, are a great number of small
lakes, none of which are more than ten miles in circumference, that are
called the Thousand Lakes. In the adjacent country is reckoned the
finest hunting for furs of any on this continent; the Indians who hunt
here seldom returning without having their canoes loaded as deep as they
can swim.

Having just before observed that this Lake is the utmost northern source
of the Mississippi, I shall here further remark, that before this river
enters the Gulph of Mexico, it has not run less, through all its
meanderings, than three thousand miles; or, in a strait line from north
to south, about twenty degrees, which is nearly fourteen hundred English
miles.

These Indians informed me, that to the north-west of Lake Winnepeek lies
another, whose circumference vastly exceeded any they had given me an
account of. They describe it as much larger than Lake Superior. But as
it appears to be so far to the north-west, I should imagine that it was
not a lake, but rather the Archipelago or broken waters that form the
communication between Hudson’s Bay and the northern parts of the Pacific
Ocean.

There are an infinite number of small lakes, on the more western parts
of the western head-branches of the Mississippi, as well as between
these and Lake Winnepeek, but none of them are large enough to suppose
either of them to be the lake or waters meant by the Indians.

They likewise informed me, that some of the northern branches of the
Messorie and the southern branches of the St. Pierre have a
communication with each other, except for a mile; over which they carry
their canoes. And by what I could learn from them, this is the road they
take when their war parties make their excursions upon the Pawnees and
Pawnawnees, nations inhabiting some branches of the Messorie River. In
the country belonging to these people it is said, that Mandrakes are
frequently found, a species of root resembling human beings of both
sexes; and that these are more perfect than such as are discovered about
the Nile in Nether-Ethiopia.

A little to the north-west of the heads of the Messorie and the St.
Pierre, the Indians further told me, that there was a nation rather
smaller and whiter than the neighbouring tribes, who cultivate the
ground, and (as far as I could gather from their expressions) in some
measure, the arts. To this account they added that some of the nations,
who inhabit those parts that lie to the west of the Shining Mountains,
have gold so plenty among them that they make their most common utensils
of it. These mountains (which I shall describe more particularly
hereafter) divide the waters that fall into the South Sea from those
that run into the Atlantic.

The people dwelling near them are supposed to be some of the different
tribes that were tributary to the Mexican kings, and who fled from their
native country to seek an asylum in these parts, about the time of the
conquest of Mexico by the Spaniards, more than two centuries ago.

As some confirmation of this supposition it is remarked, that they have
chosen the most interior parts for their retreat, being still
prepossessed with a notion that the sea-coasts have been infested ever
since with monsters vomiting fire, and hurling about thunder and
lightning; from whose bowels issued men, who, with unseen instruments,
or by the power of magick, killed the harmless Indians at an astonishing
distance. From such as these, their fore-fathers (according to a
tradition among them that still remains unimpaired) fled to the retired
abodes they now inhabit. For as they found that the floating monsters
which had thus terrified them could not approach the land, and that
those who had descended from their sides did not care to make excursions
to any considerable distance from them, they formed a resolution to
betake themselves to some country, that lay far from the sea-coasts,
where only they could be secure from such diabolical enemies. They
accordingly set out with their families, and after a long peregrination,
settled themselves near these mountains, where they concluded they had
found a place of perfect security.

The Winnebagoes, dwelling on the Fox River (whom I have already treated
of) are likewise supposed to be some strolling band from the Mexican
countries. But they are able to give only an imperfect account of their
original residence. They say they formerly came a great way from the
westward, and were driven by wars to take refuge among the Naudowessies;
but as they are entirely ignorant of the arts, or of the value of gold,
it is rather to be supposed, that they were driven from their ancient
settlements by the above-mentioned emigrants, as they passed on towards
their present habitation.

These suppositions, however, may want confirmation; for the smaller
tribes of Indians are subject to such various alterations in their
places of abode, from the wars they are continually engaged in, that it
is almost impossible to ascertain, after half a century, the original
situation of any of them.

That range of mountains, of which the Shining Mountains are a part,
begin at Mexico, and continuing northward on the back, or to the east of
California, separate the waters of those numerous rivers that fall
either into the Gulph of Mexico, or the Gulph of California. From thence
continuing their course still northward, between the sources of the
Mississippi and the rivers that run into the South Sea, they appear to
end in about forty-seven or forty-eight degrees of north latitude; where
a number of rivers arise, and empty themselves either into the South
Sea, into Hudson’s Bay, or into the waters that communicate between
these two seas.

Among these mountains, those that lie to the west of the River St.
Pierre, are called the Shining Mountains, from an infinite number of
chrystal stones, of an amazing size, with which they are covered, and
which, when the sun shines full upon them, sparkle so as to be seen at a
very great distance.

This extraordinary range of mountains is calculated to be more than
three thousand miles in length, without any very considerable intervals,
which I believe surpasses any thing of the kind in the other quarters of
the globe. Probably in future ages they may be found to contain more
riches in their bowels, than those of Indostan and Malabar, or that are
produced on the Golden Coast of Guinea; nor will I except even the
Peruvian Mines. To the west of these mountains, when explored by future
Columbuses or Raleighs, may be found other lakes, rivers, and countries,
full fraught with all the necessaries or luxuries of life; and where
future generations may find an asylum, whether driven from their country
by the ravages of lawless tyrants, or by religious persecutions, or
reluctantly leaving it to remedy the inconveniences arising from a
superabundant increase of inhabitants; whether, I say, impelled by
these, or allured by hopes of commercial advantages, there is little
doubt but their expectations will be fully gratified in these rich and
unexhausted climes.

But to return to the Assinipoils and Killistinoes, whom I left at the
Grand Portage, and from whom I received the foregoing account of the
lakes that lie to the north-west of this place.

The traders we expected being later this season than usual, and our
numbers very considerable, for there were more than three hundred of us,
the stock of provision we had brought with us was nearly exhausted, and
we waited with impatience for their arrival.

One day, whilst we were all expressing our wishes for this desirable
event, and looking from an eminence in hopes of seeing them come over
the lake, the chief priest belonging to the band of the Killistinoes
told us, that he would endeavour to obtain a conference with the Great
Spirit, and know from him when the traders would arrive. I paid little
attention to this declaration, supposing that it would be productive of
some juggling trick, just sufficiently covered to deceive the ignorant
Indians. But the king of that tribe telling me that this was chiefly
undertaken by the priest to alleviate my anxiety, and at the same time
to convince me how much interest he had with the Great Spirit, I thought
it necessary to restrain my animadversions on his design.

The following evening was fixed upon for this spiritual conference. When
every thing had been properly prepared, the king came to me and led me
to a capacious tent, the covering of which was drawn up, so as to render
what was transacting within visible to those who stood without. We found
the tent surrounded by a great number of the Indians, but we readily
gained admission, and seated ourselves on skins laid on the ground for
that purpose.

In the centre I observed that there was a place of an oblong shape,
which was composed of stakes stuck in the ground, with intervals
between, so as to form a kind of chest or coffin, large enough to
contain the body of a man. These were of a middle size, and placed at
such a distance from each other, that whatever lay within them was
readily to be discerned. The tent was perfectly illuminated by a great
number of torches made of splinters cut from the pine or birch tree,
which the Indians held in their hands.

In a few minutes the priest entered; when an amazing large elk’s skin
being spread on the ground, just at my feet, he laid himself down upon
it, after having stript himself of every garment except that which he
wore close about his middle. Being now prostrate on his back, he first
laid hold of one side of the skin, and folded it over him, and then the
other; leaving only his head uncovered. This was no sooner done, than
two of the young men who stood by took about forty yards of strong cord,
made also of an elk’s hide, and rolled it tight round his body, so that
he was completely swathed within the skin. Being thus bound up like an
Egyptian Mummy, one took him by the heels, and the other by the head,
and lifted him over the pales into the inclosure. I could also now
discern him as plain as I had hitherto done, and I took care not to turn
my eyes a moment from the object before me, that I might the more
readily detect the artifice; for such I doubted not but that it would
turn out to be.

The priest had not lain in this situation more than a few seconds, when
he began to mutter. This he continued to do for some time, and then by
degrees grew louder and louder, till at length he spoke articulately;
however what he uttered was in such a mixed jargon of the Chipéway,
Ottowaw, and Killistinoe languages, that I could understand but very
little of it. Having continued in this tone for a considerable while, he
at last exerted his voice to its utmost pitch, sometimes raving and
sometimes praying, till he had worked himself into such an agitation,
that he foamed at his mouth.

After having remained near three quarters of an hour in the place, and
continued his vociferation with unabated vigor, he seemed to be quite
exhausted, and remained speechless. But in an instant he sprung upon his
feet, notwithstanding at the time he was put in, it appeared impossible
for him to move either his legs or arms, and shaking off his covering,
as quick as if the bands with which it had been bound were burned
asunder, he began to address those who stood around in a firm and
audible voice. “My Brothers,” said he, “the Great Spirit has deigned to
hold a Talk with his servant at my earnest request. He has not, indeed,
told me when the persons we expect will be here, but to-morrow, soon
after the sun has reached his highest point in the heavens, a canoe will
arrive, and the people in that will inform us when the traders will
come.” Having said this, he stepped out of the inclosure, and after he
had put on his robes, dismissed the assembly. I own I was greatly
astonished at what I had seen; but as I observed that every eye in the
company was fixed on me with a view to discover my sentiments, I
carefully concealed every emotion.

The next day the sun shone bright, and long before noon all the Indians
were gathered together on the eminence that overlooked the lake. The old
king came to me and asked me, whether I had so much confidence in what
the priest had foretold, as to join his people on the hill, and wait for
the completion of it? I told him I was at a loss what opinion to form of
the prediction, but that I would readily attend him. On this we walked
together to the place where the others were assembled. Every eye was
again fixed by turns on me and on the lake; when just as the sun had
reached his zenith, agreeable to what the priest had foretold, a canoe
came round a point of land about a league distant. The Indians no sooner
beheld it, than they sent up an universal shout, and by their looks
seemed to triumph in the interest their priest thus evidently had with
the Great Spirit.

In less than an hour the canoe reached the shore, when I attended the
king and chiefs to receive those who were on board. As soon as the men
were landed, we walked all together to the king’s tent, when according
to their invariable custom we began to smoke; and this we did,
notwithstanding our impatience to know the tidings they brought, without
asking any questions; for the Indians are the most deliberate people in
the world. However, after some trivial conversation, the king inquired
of them whether they had seen any thing of the traders? the men replied,
that they had parted from them a few days before, and that they proposed
being here the second day from the present. They accordingly arrived at
that time greatly to our satisfaction, but more particularly so to that
of the Indians, who found by this event the importance both of their
priest and of their nation, greatly augmented in the sight of a
stranger.

This story I acknowledge appears to carry with it marks of great
credulity in the relator. But no one is less tinctured with that
weakness than myself. The circumstances of it I own are of a very
extraordinary nature; however, as I can vouch for their being free from
either exaggeration or misrepresentation, being myself a cool and
dispassionate observer of them all, I thought it necessary to give them
to the public. And this I do without wishing to mislead the judgment of
my Readers, or to make any superstitious impressions on their minds, but
leaving them to draw from it what conclusions they please.

I have already observed that the Assinipoils, with a part of whom I met
here, are a revolted band of the Naudowessies; who on account of some
real or imagined grievances, for the Indians in general are very
tenacious of their liberty, had separated themselves from their
countrymen, and sought for freedom at the expence of their ease. For the
country they now inhabit about the borders of Lake Winnepeek, being much
farther north, is not near so fertile or agreeable as that they have
relinquished. They still retain the language and manners of their former
associates.

The Killistinoes, now the neighbours and allies of the Assinipoils, for
they also dwell near the same Lake and on the waters of the River
Bourbon, appear to have been originally a tribe of the Chipéways, as
they speak their language, though in a different dialect. Their nation
consists of about three or four hundred warriors, and they seem to be a
hardy brave people. I have already given an account of their country
when I treated of Lake Winnepeek. As they reside within the limits of
Hudson’s Bay, they generally trade at the factories which belong to that
Company, but, for the reasons mentioned before, they frequently come to
the place where I happened to join them, in order to meet the traders
from Michillimackinac.

The anxiety I had felt on account of the traders delay, was not much
alleviated by their arrival. I again found my expectations disappointed,
for I was not able to procure the goods I wanted from any of them. I was
therefore obliged to give over my designs, and return to the place from
whence I first began my extensive circuit. I accordingly took leave of
the old king of the Killistinoes, with the chiefs of both bands, and
departed. This prince was upwards of sixty years of age, tall and
slightly made, but he carried himself very erect. He was of a courteous,
affable disposition, and treated me, as did all the chiefs, with great
civility.

I observed that this people still continued a custom, that appeared to
have been universal before any of them became acquainted with the
manners of the Europeans, that of complimenting strangers with the
company of their wives; and this is not only practised by the lower
ranks, but by the chiefs themselves, who esteem it the greatest proof of
courtesy they can give a stranger.

The beginning of October, after having coasted round the north and east
borders of Lake Superior, I arrived at Cadot’s Fort, which adjoins to
the Falls of St. Marie, and is situated near the south-west corner of
it.

Lake Superior, formerly termed the Upper Lake from its northern
situation, is so called on account of its being superior in magnitude to
any of the lakes on that vast continent. It might justly be termed the
Caspian of America, and is supposed to be the largest body of fresh
water on the globe. Its circumference, according to the French charts,
is about fifteen hundred miles; but I believe, that if it was coasted
round, and the utmost extent of every bay taken, it would exceed sixteen
hundred.

After I first entered it from Goddard’s River on the west Bay, I coasted
near twelve hundred miles of the north and east shores of it, and
observed that the greatest part of that extensive tract was bounded by
rocks and uneven ground. The water in general appeared to lie on a bed
of rocks. When it was calm, and the sun shone bright, I could sit in my
canoe, where the depth was upwards of six fathoms, and plainly see huge
piles of stone at the bottom, of different shapes, some of which
appeared as if they were hewn. The water at this time was as pure and
transparent as air; and my canoe seemed as if it hung suspended in that
element. It was impossible to look attentively through this limpid
medium at the rocks below, without finding, before many minutes were
elapsed, your head swim, and your eyes no longer able to behold the
dazzling scene.

I discovered also by accident another extraordinary property in the
waters of this Lake. Though it was in the month of July that I passed
over it, and the surface of the water, from the heat of the superambient
air, impregnated with no small degree of warmth, yet on letting down a
cup to the depth of about a fathom, the water drawn from thence was so
excessively cold, that it had the same effect when received into the
mouth as ice.

The situation of this Lake is variously laid down; but from the most
exact observations I could make, it lies between forty-six and fifty
degrees of north latitude, and between eighty-four and ninety-three
degrees of west longitude from the meridian of London.

There are many islands in this Lake, two of which are very large; and if
the land of them is proper for cultivation, there appears to be
sufficient to form on each a considerable province; especially on Isle
Royal, which cannot be less than an hundred miles long, and in many
places forty broad. But there is no way at present of ascertaining the
exact length or breadth of either. Even the French, who always kept a
small schooner on this lake whilst they were in possession of Canada, by
which they could have made this discovery, have only acquired a slight
knowledge of the external parts of these islands; at least they have
never published any account of the internal parts of them, that I could
get intelligence of.

Nor was I able to discover from any of the conversations which I held
with the neighbouring Indians, that they had ever made any settlements
on them, or even landed there in their hunting excursions. From what I
could gather by their discourse, they suppose them to have been, from
their first information, the residence of the Great Spirit; and relate
many ridiculous stories of enchantment and magical tricks that had been
experienced by such as were obliged through stress of weather to take
shelter on them.

One of the Chipéway chiefs told me, that some of their people being once
driven on the island of Mauropas, which lies towards the north-east part
of the Lake, found on it large quantities of a heavy shining yellow
sand, that from their description must have been gold dust. Being struck
with the beautiful appearance of it, in the morning, when they
re-entered their canoe, they attempted to bring some away; but a spirit
of an amazing size, according to their account sixty feet in height,
strode into the water after them, and commanded them to deliver back
what they had taken away. Terrified at his gigantic stature, and seeing
that he had nearly overtaken them, they were glad to restore their
shining treasure; on which they were suffered to depart without further
molestation. Since this incident, no Indian that has ever heard of it,
will venture near the same haunted coast. Besides this, they recounted
to me many other stories of these islands, equally fabulous.

The country on the north and east parts of Lake Superior is very
mountainous and barren. The weather being intensely cold in the winter,
and the sun having but little power in the summer, vegetation there is
very slow; and consequently but little fruit is to be found on its
shore. It however produces some few species in great abundance.
Whirtleberries of an uncommon size, and fine flavour, grow on the
mountains near the Lake in amazing quantities; as do black currants and
goosberries in the same luxuriant manner.

But the fruit which exceeds all the others, is a berry resembling a
rasberry in its manner of growth, but of a lighter red, and much larger;
its taste is far more delicious than the fruit I have compared it to,
notwithstanding that it is so highly esteemed in Europe: it grows on a
shrub of the nature of a vine, with leaves similar to those of the
grape; and I am persuaded that was it transplanted into a warmer and
more kindly climate, it would prove a most rare and delicious fruit.

Two very large rivers empty themselves into this Lake, on the north and
north-east side; one is called the Nipegon River, or, as the French
pronounce it, the Allanipegon, which leads to a band of the Chipéways,
inhabiting a lake of the same name, and the other is termed the
Michipicooton River, the source of which is situated towards James’s
Bay, from whence there is but a short carriage to another river, which
empties itself into that bay, at a fort belonging to the Company. It was
by this passage that a party of French from Michillimackinac invaded the
settlements of that Society in the reign of Queen Anne. Having taken and
destroyed their forts, they brought the cannon which they found in them
to the fortress from whence they had issued; these were small brass
pieces, and remain there to this present time; having, through the usual
revolutions of fortune, returned to the possession of their former
masters.

Not far from the Nipegon is a small river, that, just before it enters
the Lake, has a perpendicular fall from the top of a mountain, of more
than six hundred feet. Being very narrow, it appears at a distance like
a white garter suspended in the air.

A few Indians inhabit round the eastern borders of this lake, supposed
to be the remains of the Algonkins, who formerly possessed this country,
but who have been nearly extirpated by the Iroquois of Canada. Lake
Superior has near forty rivers that fall into it, some of which are of a
considerable size. On the south side of it is a remarkable point or
cape, of about sixty miles in length, called Point Chegomegan. It might
as properly be termed a peninsula, as it is nearly separated from the
continent, on the east side, by a narrow bay that extends from east to
west. Canoes have but a short portage across the isthmus, whereas if
they coast it round, the voyage is more than an hundred miles.

About that distance to the west of the cape just described, a
considerable river falls into the Lake, the head of which is composed of
a great assemblage of small streams. This river is remarkable for the
abundance of virgin copper that is found on and near its banks. A metal
which is met with also in several other places on this coast. I observed
that many of the small islands, particularly those on the eastern
shores, were covered with copper ore. They appeared like beds of
copperas, of which many tuns lay in a small space.

A company of adventurers from England began, soon after the conquest of
Canada, to bring away some of this metal, but the distracted situation
of affairs in America has obliged them to relinquish their scheme. It
might in future times be made a very advantageous trade, as the metal,
which costs nothing on the spot, and requires but little expence to get
it on board, could be conveyed in boats or canoes through the Falls of
St. Marie to the Isle of St. Joseph, which lies at the bottom of the
Straights near the entrance into Lake Huron; from thence it might be put
on board larger vessels, and in them transported across that Lake to the
Falls of Niagara; there being carried by land across the Portage, it
might be conveyed without much more obstruction to Quebec. The cheapness
and ease with which any quantity of it may be procured, will make up for
the length of way that it is necessary to transport it before it reaches
the sea-coast, and enable the proprietors to send it to foreign markets
on as good terms as it can be exported from other countries.

Lake Superior abounds with variety of fish, the principal and best are
the trout and sturgeon, which may be caught at almost any season in the
greatest abundance. The trouts in general weigh about twelve pounds, but
some are caught that exceed fifty. Besides these, a species of white
fish is taken in great quantities here, that resemble a shad in their
shape, but they are rather thicker, and less bony; they weigh about four
pounds each, and are of a delicious taste. The best way of catching
these fish is with a net; but the trout might be taken at all times with
the hook. There are likewise many sorts of smaller fish in great plenty
here, and which may be taken with ease; among these is a sort resembling
a herring, that are generally made use of as a bait for the trout. Very
small crabs, not larger than half a crown piece, are found both in this
and Lake Michegan.

This Lake is as much affected by storms as the Atlantic Ocean; the waves
run as high, and are equally as dangerous to ships. It discharges its
waters from the south-east corner, through the Straights of St. Marie.
At the upper end of these Straights stands a fort that receives its name
from them, commanded by Mons. Cadot, a French Canadian, who being
proprietor of the soil, is still permitted to keep possession of it.
Near this fort is a very strong rapid, against which, though it is
impossible for canoes to ascend, yet when conducted by careful pilots,
they might pass down without danger.

Though Lake Superior, as I have before observed, is supplied by near
forty rivers, many of which are considerable ones, yet it does not
appear that one-tenth part of the waters which are conveyed into it by
these rivers are carried off at this evacuation. How such a
superabundance of water can be disposed of, as it must certainly be by
some means or other, without which the circumference of the lake would
be continually enlarging, I know not: that it does not empty itself, as
the Mediterranean Sea is supposed to do, by an under current, which
perpetually counteracts that near the surface, is certain; for the
stream which falls over the rock is not more than five or six feet in
depth, and the whole of it passes on through the Straights into the
adjacent lake; nor is it probable that so great a quantity can be
absorbed by exhalations; consequently they must find a passage through
some subterranean cavities, deep, unfathomable, and never to be
explored.

The Falls of St. Marie do not descend perpendicularly as those of
Niagara or St. Anthony do, but consist of a rapid which continues near
three quarters of a mile, over which canoes well piloted might pass.

At the bottom of these Falls, Nature has formed a most commodious
station for catching the fish which are to be found there in immense
quantities. Persons standing on the rocks that lie adjacent to it, may
take with dipping nets, about the months of September and October, the
white fish before mentioned; at that season, together with several other
species, they croud up to this spot in such amazing shoals, that enough
may be taken to supply, when properly cured, thousands of inhabitants
throughout the year.

The Straights of St. Marie are about forty miles long, bearing
south-east, but varying much in their breadth. The current between the
Falls and Lake Huron is not so rapid as might be expected, nor do they
prevent the navigation of ships of burden as far up as the island of St.
Joseph.

It has been observed by travellers that the entrance into Lake Superior,
from these Straights, affords one of the most pleasing prospects in the
world. The place in which this might be viewed to the greatest
advantage, is just at the opening of the lake, from whence may be seen
on the left, many beautiful little islands that extend a considerable
way before you; and on the right, an agreeable succession of small
points of land, that project a little way into the water, and
contribute, with the islands, to render this delightful bason (as it
might be termed) calm and secure from the ravages of those tempestuous
winds by which the adjoining lake is frequently troubled.

Lake Huron, into which you now enter from the Straights of St. Marie, is
the next in magnitude to Lake Superior. It lies between forty-two and
forty-six degrees of north latitude, and seventy-nine and eighty-five
degrees of west longitude. Its shape is nearly triangular, and its
circumference about one thousand miles.

On the north side of it lies an island that is remarkable for being near
an hundred miles in length, and no more than eight miles broad. This
island is known by the name of Manataulin, which signifies a Place of
Spirits, and is considered by the Indians as sacred as those already
mentioned in Lake Superior.

About the middle of the south-west side of this lake is Saganaum Bay.
The capes that separate this bay from the lake, are about eighteen miles
distant from each other; near the middle of the intermediate space stand
two islands, which greatly tend to facilitate the passage of canoes and
small vessels, by affording them shelter, as without this security it
would not be prudent to venture across so wide a sea; and the coasting
round the bay would make the voyage long and tedious. This bay is about
eighty miles in length, and in general about eighteen or twenty miles
broad.

Nearly half way between Saganaum Bay and the north-west corner of the
Lake lies another, which is termed Thunder Bay. The Indians, who have
frequented these parts from time immemorial, and every European
traveller that has passed through it, have unanimously agreed to call it
by this name, on account of the continual thunder they have always
observed here. The bay is about nine miles broad, and the same in
length, and whilst I was passing over it, which took me up near
twenty-four hours, it thundered and lightened during the greatest part
of the time to an excessive degree.

There appeared to be no visible reason for this that I could discover,
nor is the country in general subject to thunder; the hills that stood
around were not of a remarkable height, neither did the external parts
of them seem to be covered with any sulphureous substance. But as this
phænomenon must originate from some natural cause, I conjecture that the
shores of the bay, or the adjacent mountains, are either impregnated
with an uncommon quantity of sulphureous matter, or contain some metal
or mineral apt to attract in a great degree the electrical particles
that are hourly borne over them by the passant clouds. But the solution
of this, and those other philosophical remarks which casually occur
throughout these pages, I leave to the discussion of abler heads.

The fish in Lake Huron are much the same as those in Lake Superior. Some
of the land on its banks is very fertile, and proper for cultivation,
but in other parts it is sandy and barren. The promontory that separates
this lake from Lake Michegan, is composed of a vast plain, upwards of
one hundred miles long, but varying in its breadth, being from ten to
fifteen miles broad. This track, as I have before observed, is divided
into almost an equal portion between the Ottowaw and Chipéway Indians.
At the north-east corner this lake has a communication with Lake
Michegan, by the Straights of Michillimackinac already described.

I had like to have omitted a very extraordinary circumstance relative to
these Straights. According to observations made by the French, whilst
they were in possession of the fort, although there is no diurnal flood
or ebb to be perceived in these waters, yet, from an exact attention to
their state, a periodical alteration in them has been discovered. It was
observed that they arose by gradual, but almost imperceptible degrees
till they had reached the height of about three feet. This was
accomplished in seven years and a half; and in the same space they as
gently decreased, till they had reached their former situation; so that
in fifteen years they had completed this inexplicable revolution. At the
time I was there the truth of these observations could not be confirmed
by the English, as they had then been only a few years in possession of
the fort; but they all agreed that some alteration in the limits of the
Straights was apparent. All these lakes are so affected by the winds, as
sometimes to have the appearance of a tide, according as they happen to
blow; but this is only temporary and partial.

A great number of the Chipéway Indians live scattered around this Lake,
particularly near Saganaum Bay. On its banks are found an amazing
quantity of the sand cherries, and in the adjacent country nearly the
same fruits as those that grow about the other lakes.

From the Falls of St. Marie I leisurely proceeded back to
Michillimackinac, and arrived there the beginning of November 1767,
having been fourteen months on this extensive tour, travelled near four
thousand miles, and visited twelve nations of Indians lying to the west
and north of this place. The winter setting in soon after my arrival, I
was obliged to tarry there till the June following, the navigation over
Lake Huron for large vessels not being open, on account of the ice, till
that time. Meeting here with sociable company, I passed these months
very agreeably, and without finding the hours tedious.

One of my chief amusements was that of fishing for trouts. Though the
Straights were covered with ice, we found means to make holes through
it, and letting down strong lines of fifteen yards in length, to which
were fixed three or four hooks baited with the small fish before
described, we frequently caught two at a time of forty pounds weight
each; but the common size is from ten to twenty pounds. These are most
delicious food. The method of preserving them during the three months
the winter generally lasts, is by hanging them up in the air; and in one
night they will be frozen so hard, that they will keep as well as if
they were cured with salt.

I have only pointed out in the plan of my travels the circuit I made
from my leaving Michillimackinac till I arrived again at that fort.
Those countries that lie nearer to the colonies have been so often and
so minutely described, that any further account of them would be
useless. I shall therefore only give my Readers in the remainder of my
journal, as I at first proposed, a description of the other great lakes
of Canada, many of which I have navigated over, and relate at the same
time a few particular incidents that I trust will not be found
inapplicable or unentertaining.

In June 1768 I left Michillimackinac, and returned in the Gladwyn
Schooner, a vessel of about eighty tons burthen, over Lake Huron to Lake
St. Claire, where we left the ship, and proceeded in boats to Detroit.
This lake is about ninety miles in circumference, and by the way of
Huron River, which runs from the south corner of Lake Huron, receives
the waters of the three great lakes, Superior, Michegan, and Huron. Its
form is rather round, and in some places it is deep enough for the
navigation of large vessels, but towards the middle of it there is a bar
of sand, which prevents those that are loaded from passing over it. Such
as are in ballast only may find water sufficient to carry them quite
through; the cargoes, however, of such as are freighted must be taken
out, and after being transported across the bar in boats, reshipped
again.

The river that runs from Lake St. Claire to Lake Erie (or rather the
Straight, for thus it might be termed from its name) is called Detroit,
which is in French, the Straight. It runs nearly south, has a gentle
current, and depth of water sufficient for ships of considerable
burthen. The town of Detroit is situated on the western banks of this
river, about nine miles below Lake St. Claire.

Almost opposite, on the eastern shore, is the village of the ancient
Hurons: a tribe of Indians which have been treated of by so many
writers, that adhering to the restrictions I have laid myself under of
only describing places and people little known, or incidents that have
passed unnoticed by others, I shall omit giving a description of them. A
missionary of the order of Carthusian Friars, by permission of the
bishop of Canada, resides among them.

The banks of the River Detroit, both above and below these towns, are
covered with settlements that extend more than twenty miles; the country
being exceedingly fruitful, and proper for the cultivation of wheat,
Indian corn, oats, and peas. It has also many spots of fine pasturage;
but as the inhabitants, who are chiefly French that submitted to the
English government after the conquest of these parts by General Amherst,
are more attentive to the Indian trade than to farming, it is but badly
cultivated.

The town of Detroit contains upwards of one hundred houses. The streets
are somewhat regular, and have a range of very convenient and handsome
barracks, with a spacious parade at the south end. On the west side lies
the King’s garden belonging to the governor, which is very well laid out
and kept in good order. The fortifications of the town consist of a
strong stockade made of round piles, fixed firmly in the ground, and
lined with palisades. These are defended by some small bastions, on
which are mounted a few indifferent cannon of an inconsiderable size,
just sufficient for its defence against the Indians, or an enemy not
provided with artillery.

The garrison, in time of peace, consists of two hundred men commanded by
a field officer, who acts as chief magistrate under the governor of
Canada. Mr. Turnbull, captain of the 60th regiment, or Royal Americans,
was commandant when I happened to be there. This gentleman was
deservedly esteemed and respected, both by the inhabitants and traders,
for the propriety of his conduct; and I am happy to have an opportunity
of thus publickly making my acknowledgments to him, for the civilities I
received from him during my stay.

In the year 1762, in the month of July, it rained on this town and the
parts adjacent, a sulphureous water of the colour and consistence of
ink; some of which being collected into bottles, and wrote with appeared
perfectly intelligible on the paper, and answered every purpose of that
useful liquid. Soon after, the Indian wars already spoken of, broke out
in these parts. I mean not to say that this incident was ominous of
them, notwithstanding it is well known that innumerable well attested
instances of extraordinary phænomena happening before extraordinary
events, have been recorded in almost every age by historians of
veracity; I only relate the circumstances as a fact of which I was
informed by many persons of undoubted probity, and leave my Readers, as
I have hitherto done, to draw their own conclusions from it.

Pontiac, under whom the party that surprized Fort Michillimackinac, as
related in the former part of this work, acted, was an enterprizing
chief or head-warrior of the Miames. During the late war between the
English and the French he had been a steady friend to the latter, and
continued his inveteracy to the former even after peace had been
concluded between these two nations. Unwilling to put an end to the
depredations he had been so long engaged in, he collected an army of
confederate Indians, consisting of the nations before enumerated, with
an intention to renew the war. However, instead of openly attacking the
English settlements, he laid a scheme for taking by surprize those forts
on the extremities which they had lately gained possession of.

How well the party he detached to take Fort Michillimackinac succeeded,
the Reader already knows. To get into his hands Detroit, a place of
greater consequence, and much better guarded, required greater
resolution, and more consummate art. He of course took the management of
this expedition on himself, and drew near it with the principal body of
his troops. He was however prevented from carrying his designs into
execution by an apparently trivial and unforeseen circumstance. On such
does the fate of mighty Empires frequently depend!

The town of Detroit, when Pontiac formed his plan, was garrisoned by
about three hundred men commanded by Major Gladwyn, a gallant officer.
As at that time every appearance of war was at an end, and the Indians
seemed to be on a friendly footing, Pontiac approached the Fort, without
exciting any suspicions in the breast of the governor or the
inhabitants. He encamped at a little distance from it, and sent to let
the commandant know that he was come to trade; and being desirous of
brightening the chain of peace between the English and his nation,
desired that he and his chiefs may be admitted to hold a council with
him. The governor still unsuspicious, and not in the least doubting the
sincerity of the Indians, granted their general’s request, and fixed on
the next morning for their reception.

The evening of that day, an Indian woman who had been employed by Major
Gladwyn to make him a pair of Indian shoes, out of curious elk-skin,
brought them home. The Major was so pleased with them, that, intending
these as a present for a friend, he ordered her to take the remainder
back, and make it into others for himself. He then directed his servant
to pay her for those she had done, and dismissed her. The woman went to
the door that led to the street, but no further; she there loitered
about as if she had not finished the business on which she came. A
servant at length observed her, and asked her why she staid there; she
gave him, however, no answer.

Some short time after, the governor himself saw her; and enquired of his
servant what occasioned her stay. Not being able to get a satisfactory
answer, he ordered the woman to be called in. When she came into his
presence he desired to know what was the reason of her loitering about,
and not hastening home before the gates were shut, that she might
complete in due time the work he had given her to do. She told him,
after much hesitation, that as he had always behaved with great goodness
towards her, she was unwilling to take away the remainder of the skin,
because he put so great a value upon it; and yet had not been able to
prevail upon herself to tell him so. He then asked her, why she was more
reluctant to do so now, than she had been when she made the former pair.
With increased reluctance she answered, that she never should be able to
bring them back.

His curiosity being now excited, he insisted on her disclosing to him
the secret that seemed to be struggling in her bosom for utterance. At
last, on receiving a promise that the intelligence she was about to give
him should not turn to her prejudice, and that if it appeared to be
beneficial she should be rewarded for it, she informed him, that at the
council to be held with the Indians the following day, Pontiac and his
chiefs intended to murder him; and, after having massacred the garrison
and inhabitants, to plunder the town. That for this purpose all the
chiefs who were to be admitted into the council-room had cut their guns
short, so that they could conceal them under their blankets; with which,
at a signal given by their general on delivering the belt, they were all
to rise up, and instantly to fire on him and his attendants. Having
effected this, they were immediately to rush into the town, where they
would find themselves supported by a great number of their warriors,
that were to come into it during the sitting of the council, under
pretence of trading, but privately armed in the same manner. Having
gained from the woman every necessary particular relative to the plot,
and also the means by which she acquired a knowledge of them, he
dismissed her with injunctions of secrecy, and a promise of fulfilling
on his part with punctuality the engagements he had entered into.

The intelligence the governor had just received, gave him great
uneasiness; and he immediately consulted the officer who was next to him
in command on the subject. But that gentleman considering the
information as a story invented for some artful purposes, advised him to
pay no attention to it. This conclusion however had happily no weight
with him. He thought it prudent to conclude it to be true, till he was
convinced that it was not so; and therefore, without revealing his
suspicions to any other person, he took every needful precaution that
the time would admit of. He walked round the fort during the whole
night, and saw himself that every centinel was on duty, and every weapon
of defence in proper order.

As he traversed the ramparts which lay nearest to the Indian camp, he
heard them in high festivity, and, little imagining that their plot was
discovered, probably pleasing themselves with the anticipation of their
success. As soon as the morning dawned, he ordered all the garrison
under arms; and then imparting his apprehensions to a few of the
principal officers, gave them such directions as he thought necessary.
At the same time he sent round to all the traders, to inform them, that
as it was expected a great number of Indians would enter the town that
day, who might be inclined to plunder, he desired they would have their
arms ready, and repel every attempt of that kind.

About ten o’clock, Pontiac and his chiefs arrived; and were conducted to
the council-chamber, where the governor and his principal officers, each
with pistols in their belts, awaited his arrival. As the Indians passed
on, they could not help observing that a greater number of troops than
usual were drawn up on the parade, or marching about. No sooner were
they entered, and seated on the skins prepared for them, than Pontiac
asked the governor on what occasion his young men, meaning the soldiers,
were thus drawn up, and parading the streets. He received for answer,
that it was only intended to keep them perfect in their exercise.

The Indian chief-warrior now began his speech, which contained the
strongest professions of friendship and good-will towards the English;
and when he came to the delivery of the belt of wampum, the particular
mode of which, according to the woman’s information, was to be the
signal for his chiefs to fire, the governor and all his attendants drew
their swords half-way out of their scabbards; and the soldiers at the
same instant made a clattering with their arms before the doors, which
had been purposely left open. Pontiac, though one of the boldest of men,
immediately turned pale, and trembled; and instead of giving the belt in
the manner proposed, delivered it according to the usual way. His
chiefs, who had impatiently expected the signal, looked at each other
with astonishment, but continued quiet, waiting the result.

The governor in his turn made a speech; but instead of thanking the
great warrior for the professions of friendship he had just uttered, he
accused him of being a traitor. He told him that the English, who knew
every thing, were convinced of his treachery and villainous designs; and
as a proof that they were well acquainted with his most secret thoughts
and intentions, he stepped towards the Indian chief that sat nearest to
him, and drawing aside his blanket discovered the shortened firelock.
This entirely disconcerted the Indians, and frustrated their design.

He then continued to tell them, that as he had given his word at the
time they desired an audience, that their persons should be safe, he
would hold his promise inviolable, though they so little deserved it.
However he advised them to make the best of their way out of the fort,
lest his young men, on being acquainted with their treacherous purposes,
should cut every one of them to pieces. Pontiac endeavoured to
contradict the accusation, and to make excuses for his suspicious
conduct; but the governor, satisfied of the falsity of his
protestations, would not listen to him. The Indians immediately left the
fort, but instead of being sensible of the governor’s generous
behaviour, they threw off the mask, and the next day made a regular
attack upon it.

Major Gladwyn has not escaped censure for this mistaken lenity; for
probably had he kept a few of the principal chiefs prisoners, whilst he
had them in his power, he might have been able to have brought the whole
confederacy to terms, and have prevented a war. But he atoned for this
oversight, by the gallant defence he made for more than a year, amidst a
variety of discouragements.

During that period some very smart skirmishes happened between the
besiegers and the garrison, of which the following was the principal and
most bloody. Captain Delzel, a brave officer, prevailed on the governor
to give him the command of about two hundred men, and to permit him to
attack the enemy’s camp. This being complied with, he sallied from the
town before day-break; but Pontiac, receiving from some of his
swift-footed warriors, who were constantly employed in watching the
motions of the garrison, timely intelligence of their design, he
collected together the choicest of his troops, and met the detachment at
some distance from his camp, near a place since called Bloody-Bridge. As
the Indians were vastly superior in numbers to captain Delzel’s party,
he was soon overpowered and driven back. Being now nearly surrounded, he
made a vigorous effort to regain the bridge he had just crossed, by
which alone he could find a retreat; but in doing this he lost his life,
and many of his men fell with him. However, Major Rogers, the second in
command, assisted by Lieutenant Breham, found means to draw off the
shattered remains of their little army, and conducted them into the
fort.

Thus considerably reduced, it was with difficulty the Major could defend
the town; notwithstanding which, he held out against the Indians till he
was relieved, as after this they made but few attacks on the place, and
only continued to blockade it.

The Gladwyn Schooner (that in which I afterwards took my passage from
Michillimackinac to Detroit, and which I since learn was lost with all
her crew on Lake Erie, through the obstinacy of the commander, who could
not be prevailed upon to take in sufficient ballast) arrived about this
time near the town with a reinforcement and necessary supplies. But
before this vessel could reach the place of its destination, it was most
vigorously attacked by a detachment from Pontiac’s army. The Indians
surrounded it in their canoes, and made great havock among the crew. At
length the captain of the schooner with a considerable number of his men
being killed, and the savages beginning to climb up its sides from every
quarter, the Lieutenant (Mr. Jacobs, who afterwards commanded, and was
lost in it) being determined that the stores should not fall into the
enemy’s hands, and seeing no other alternative, ordered the gunner to
set fire to the powder-room, and blow the ship up. This order was on the
point of being executed, when a chief of the Hurons, who understood the
English language, gave out to his friends the intention of the
commander. On receiving this intelligence the Indians hurried down the
sides of the ship with the greatest precipitation, and got as far from
it as possible; whilst the commander immediately took advantage of their
consternation, and arrived without any further obstruction at the town.

This seasonable supply gave the garrison fresh spirits; and Pontiac
being now convinced that it would not be in his power to reduce the
place, proposed an accommodation; the governor wishing as much to get
rid of such troublesome enemies, who obstructed the intercourse of the
traders with the neighbouring nations, listened to his proposals, and
having procured advantageous terms, agreed to a peace. The Indians soon
after separated, and returned to their different provinces; nor have
they since thought proper to disturb, at least in any great degree, the
tranquillity of these parts.

Pontiac henceforward seemed to have laid aside the animosity he had
hitherto borne towards the English, and apparently became their zealous
friend. To reward this new attachment, and to insure a continuance of
it, government allowed him a handsome pension. But his restless and
intriguing spirit would not suffer him to be grateful for this
allowance, and his conduct, at length grew suspicious; so that going, in
the year 1767, to hold a council in the country of the Illinois, a
faithful Indian, who was either commissioned by one of the English
governors, or instigated by the love he bore the English nation,
attended him as a spy; and being convinced from the speech Pontiac made
in the council that he still retained his former prejudices against
those for whom he now professed a friendship, he plunged his knife into
his heart, as soon as he had done speaking, and laid him dead on the
spot.

But to return from this digression.

Lake Erie receives the waters by which it is supplied from the three
great lakes, through the Straights of Detroit, that lie at its
north-west corner. This Lake is situated between forty-one and
forty-three degrees of north latitude, and between seventy-eight and
eighty-three degrees of west longitude. It is near three hundred miles
long from east to west, and about forty in its broadest part: and a
remarkable long narrow point lies on its north side, that projects for
several miles into the lake towards the south-east.

There are several islands near the west end of it so infested with
rattle-snakes, that it is very dangerous to land on them. It is
impossible that any place can produce a greater number of all kinds of
these reptiles than this does, particularly of the water-snake. The Lake
is covered near the banks of the islands with the large pond-lily; the
leaves of which lie on the surface of the water so thick, as to cover it
entirely for many acres together; and on each of these lay, when I
passed over it, wreaths of water-snakes basking in the sun, which
amounted to myriads.

The most remarkable of the different species that infest this Lake, is
the hissing-snake, which is of the small speckled kind, and about
eighteen inches long. When any thing approaches, it flattens itself in a
moment, and its spots, which are of various dyes, become visibly
brighter through rage; at the same time it blows from its mouth with
great force a subtile wind, that is reported to be of a nauseous smell;
and if drawn in with the breath of the unwary traveller, will infallibly
bring on a decline, that in a few months must prove mortal, there being
no remedy yet discovered which can counteract its baneful influence.

The stones and pebbles on the shores of this Lake are most of them
tinged, in a greater or less degree, with spots that resemble brass in
their colour, but which are of a sulphureous nature. Small pieces, about
the size of hazle-nuts, of the same kinds of ore, are found on the lands
that lie on its banks, and under the water.

The navigation of this Lake is esteemed more dangerous than any of the
others on account of many high lands that lie on the borders of it, and
project into the water in a perpendicular direction for many miles
together; so that whenever sudden storms arise, canoes and boats are
frequently lost, as there is no place for them to find a shelter.

This Lake discharges its waters at the north-east end, into the River
Niagara, which runs north and south, and is about thirty-six miles in
length; from whence it falls into Lake Ontario. At the entrance of this
river, on its eastern shore, lies Fort Niagara; and, about eighteen
miles further up, those remarkable Falls which are esteemed one of the
most extraordinary productions of nature at present known.

As these have been visited by so many travellers, and so frequently
described, I shall omit giving a particular description of them, and
only observe, that the waters by which they are supplied, after taking
their rise near two thousand miles to the north-west, and passing
through the Lakes Superior, Michegan, Huron, and Erie, during which they
have been receiving constant accumulations, at length rush down a
stupendous precipice of one hundred and forty feet perpendicular; and in
a strong rapid, that extends to the distance of eight or nine miles
below, fall nearly as much more: this River soon after empties itself
into Lake Ontario.

The noise of these Falls might be heard an amazing way. I could plainly
distinguish them in a calm morning more than twenty miles. Others have
said that at particular times, and when the wind sits fair, the sound of
them reaches fifteen leagues.

The land about the Falls is exceedingly hilly and uneven, but the
greatest part of that on the Niagara River is very good, especially for
grass and pasturage.

Fort Niagara stands nearly at the entrance of the west end of Lake
Ontario, and on the east part of the Straights of Niagara. It was taken
from the French in the year 1759, by the forces under the command of Sir
William Johnson, and at present is defended by a considerable garrison.

Lake Ontario is the next, and least of the five great Lakes of Canada.
Its situation is between forty-three and forty-five degrees of latitude,
and between seventy-six and seventy-nine degrees of west longitude. The
form of it is nearly oval, its greatest length being from north-east to
south-west, and in circumference, about six hundred miles. Near the
south-east part it receives the waters of the Oswego River, and on the
north-east discharges itself into the River Cataraqui. Not far from the
place where it issues, Fort Frontenac formerly stood, which was taken
from the French during the last war, in the year 1758, by a small army
of Provincials under Colonel Bradstreet.

At the entrance of Oswego River stands a fort of the same name,
garrisoned only at present by an inconsiderable party. This fort was
taken in the year 1756 by the French, when a great part of the garrison,
which consisted of the late Shirley’s and Pepperil’s regiments, were
massacred in cold blood by the savages.

In Lake Ontario are taken many sorts of fish, among which is the Oswego
Bass, of an excellent flavour, and weighing about three or four pounds.
There is also a sort called the Cat-head or Pout, which are in general
very large, some of them weighing eight or ten pounds; and they are
esteemed a rare dish when properly dressed.

On the north-west parts of this Lake, and to the south-east of Lake
Huron, is a tribe of Indians called the Missisauges, whose town is
denominated Toronto, from the lake on which it lies; but they are not
very numerous. The country about Lake Ontario, especially the more north
and eastern parts, is composed of good land, and in time may make very
flourishing settlements.

The Oniada Lake, situated near the head of the River Oswego, receives
the waters of Wood-Creek, which takes its rise not far from the Mohawks
River. These two lie so adjacent to each other, that a junction is
effected by sluices at Fort Stanwix, about twelve miles from the mouth
of the former. This Lake is about thirty miles long from east to west,
and near fifteen broad. The country around it belongs to the Oniada
Indians.

Lake Champlain, the next in size to Lake Ontario, and which lies nearly
east from it, is about eighty miles in length, north and south, and in
its broadest part fourteen. It is well stored with fish, and the lands
that lie on all the borders of it, or about its rivers, very good.

Lake George, formerly called by the French Lake St. Sacrament, lies to
the south-west of the last-mentioned lake, and is about thirty-five
miles long from north-east to south-west, but of no great breadth. The
country around it is very mountainous, but in the vallies the land is
tolerably good.

When these two lakes were first discovered, they were known by no other
name than that of the Iroquois Lakes; and I believe in the first plans
taken of those parts were so denominated. The Indians also that were
then called the Iroquois, are since known by the name of the Five Mohawk
Nations, and the Mohawks of Canada. In the late war, the former, which
consist of the Onondagoes, the Oniadas, the Senecas, the Tuscarories,
and Iroondocks, fought on the side of the English: the latter, which are
called the Cohnawaghans, and St. Francis Indians, joined the French.

A vast tract of land that lies between the two last-mentioned lakes and
Lake Ontario, was granted in the year 1629 by the Plymouth Company,
under a patent they had received from King James I. to Sir Ferdinando
Gorges, and to Captain John Mason, the head of that family, afterwards
distinguished from others of the same name by the Masons of Connecticut.
The countries specified in this grant are said to begin ten miles from
the heads of the rivers that run from the east and south into Lake
George and Lake Champlain; and continuing from these in a direct line
westward, extend to the middle of Lake Ontario; from thence, being
bounded by the Cataraqui, or the River of the Iroquois, they take their
course through Montreal, as far as Fort Sorrell, which lies at the
junction of this river with the Richlieu; and from that point are
inclosed by the last-mentioned river till it returns back to the two
lakes.

This immense space was granted, by the name of the Province of Laconia,
to the aforesaid gentlemen on specified conditions, and under certain
penalties; but none of these amounted, in case of omission in the
fulfillment of any part of them, to forfeiture, a fine only could be
exacted.

On account of the continual wars to which these parts have been subject,
from their situation between the settlements of the English, the French,
and the Indians, this grant has been suffered to lie dormant by the real
proprietors. Notwithstanding which, several towns have been settled
since the late war, on the borders of Lake Champlain, and grants made to
different people by the governor of New York of part of these
territories, which are now become annexed to that province.

There are a great number of lakes on the north of Canada, between
Labrador, Lake Superior, and Hudson’s Bay, but these are comparatively
small. As they lie out of the track that I pursued, I shall only give a
summary account of them. The most westerly of these are the Lakes
Nipising and Tamiscaming. The first lies at the head of the French
River, and runs into Lake Huron; the other on the Ottowaw River, which
empties itself into the Cataraqui, at Montreal. These lakes are each
about one hundred miles in circumference.

The next is Lake Mistassin, on the head of Rupert’s River, that falls
into James’s Bay. This Lake is so irregular from the large points of
land by which it is intersected on every side, that it is difficult
either to describe its shape, or to ascertain its size. It however
appears on the whole to be more than two hundred miles in circumference.

Lake St. John, which is about eighty miles round, and of a circular
form, lies on the Saguenay River, directly north of Quebec, and falls
into the St. Lawrence, somewhat north-east of that city. Lake
Manikouagone lies near the head of the Black River, which empties itself
into the St. Lawrence to the eastward of the last-mentioned river, near
the coast of Labrador, and is about sixty miles in circumference. Lake
Pertibi, Lake Wincktagan, Lake Etchelaugon, and Lake Papenouagane, with
a number of other small lakes, lie near the heads of the Bustard River
to the north of the St. Lawrence. Many others, which it is unnecessary
to particularize here, are also found between the Lakes Huron and
Ontario.

The whole of those I have enumerated, amounting to upwards of twenty,
are within the limits of Canada; and from this account it might be
deduced, that the northern parts of North America, through these
numerous inland seas, contain a greater quantity of water than any other
quarter of the globe.

In October 1768 I arrived at Boston, having been absent from it on this
expedition two years and five months, and during that time travelled
near seven thousand miles. From thence, as soon as I had properly
digested my Journal and Charts, I set out for England, to communicate
the discoveries I had made, and to render them beneficial to the
kingdom. But the prosecution of my plans for reaping these advantages
have hitherto been obstructed by the unhappy divisions that have been
fomented between Great Britain and the Colonies by their mutual enemies.
Should peace once more be restored, I doubt not but that the countries I
have described will prove a more abundant source of riches to this
nation than either its East or West Indian settlements; and I shall not
only pride myself, but sincerely rejoice in being the means of pointing
out to it so valuable an acquisition.

I cannot conclude the account of my extensive travels, without
expressing my gratitude to that beneficent Being who invisibly protected
me through those perils which unavoidably attended so long a tour among
fierce and untutored savages.

At the same time let me not be accused of vanity or presumption, if I
declare that the motives alledged in the Introduction of this work, were
not the only ones that induced me to engage in this arduous undertaking.
My views were not solely confined to the advantages that might accrue,
either to myself, or the community to which I belonged; but nobler
purposes contributed principally to urge me on.

The confined state, both with regard to civil and religious
improvements, in which so many of my fellow creatures remained, aroused
within my bosom an irresistible inclination to explore the almost
unknown regions which they inhabited; and, as a preparatory step towards
the introduction of more polished manners, and more humane sentiments,
to gain a knowledge of their language, customs, and principles.

I confess that the little benefit too many of the Indian nations have
hitherto received from their intercourse with those who denominate
themselves Christians, did not tend to encourage my charitable purposes;
yet, as many, though not the generality, might receive some benefit from
the introduction among them of the policy and religion of the Europeans,
without retaining only the errors or vices that from the depravity and
perversion of their professors are unhappily attendant on these, I
determined to persevere.

Nor could I flatter myself that I should be able to accomplish alone
this great design; however, I was willing to contribute as much as lay
in my power towards it. In all public undertakings would every one do
this, and furnish with alacrity his particular share towards it, what
stupendous works might not be completed.

It is true that the Indians are not without some sense of religion, and
such as proves that they worship the Great Creator with a degree of
purity unknown to nations who have greater opportunities of improvement;
but their religious principles are far from being so faultless as
described by a learned writer, or unmixed with opinions and ceremonies
that greatly lessen their excellency in this point. So that could the
doctrines of genuine and vital Christianity be introduced among them,
pure and untainted as it flowed from the lips of its Divine Institutor,
it would certainly tend to clear away that superstitious or idolatrous
dross by which the rationality of their religious tenets are obscured.
Its mild and beneficent precepts would likewise conduce to soften their
implacable dispositions, and to refine their savage manners; an event
most desirable; and happy shall I esteem myself if this publication
shall prove the means of pointing out the path by which salutary
instructions may be conveyed to them, and the conversion, though but of
a few, be the consequence.


                     Conclusion of the JOURNAL, &c.




                                 OF THE

                       ORIGIN, MANNERS, CUSTOMS,
                         RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE

                                 OF THE

                                INDIANS.




                               CHAPTER I.

                           _Of their_ ORIGIN.


THE means by which America received its first Inhabitants, have, since
the time of its discovery by the Europeans, been the subject of
numberless disquisitions. Was I to endeavour to collect the different
opinions and reasonings of the various writers that have taken up the
pen in defence of their conjectures, the enumeration would much exceed
the bounds I have prescribed myself, and oblige me to be less explicit
on points of greater moment.

From the obscurity in which this debate is enveloped, through the total
disuse of letters among every nation of Indians on this extensive
continent, and the uncertainty of oral tradition at the distance of so
many ages, I fear, that even after the most minute investigation we
shall not be able to settle it with any great degree of certainty. And
this apprehension will receive additional force, when it is considered
that the diversity of language which is apparently distinct between most
of the Indians, tends to ascertain that this population was not effected
from one particular country, but from several neighbouring ones, and
completed at different periods.

Most of the historians or travellers that have treated on the American
Aborigines disagree in their sentiments relative to them. Many of the
ancients are supposed to have known that this quarter of the globe not
only existed, but also that it was inhabited. Plato in his Timæus has
asserted, that beyond the island which he calls Atalantis, and which
according to his description was situated in the western Ocean, there
were a great number of other islands, and behind those a vast Continent.

Oviedo, a celebrated Spanish author of a much later date, has made no
scruple to affirm that the Antilles are the famous Hesperides so often
mentioned by the poets; which are at length restored to the kings of
Spain, the descendants of King Hesperus, who lived upwards of three
thousand years ago, and from whom these islands received their name.

Two other Spaniards, the one, Father Gregorio Garcia, a Dominican, the
other, Father Joseph De Acosta, a Jesuit, have written on the origin of
the Americans.

The former, who had been employed in the missions of Mexico and Peru,
endeavoured to prove from the traditions of the Mexicans, Peruvians, and
others, which he received on the spot, and from the variety of
characters, customs, languages, and religion observable in the different
countries of the new world, that different nations had contributed to
the peopling of it.

The latter, Father De Acosta, in his examination of the means by which
the first Indians of America might have found a passage to that
continent, discredits the conclusions of those who have supposed it to
be by sea, because no ancient author has made mention of the compass:
and concludes, that it must be either by the north of Asia and Europe,
which adjoin to each other, or by those regions that lie to the
southward of the Straights of Magellan. He also rejects the assertions
of such as have advanced that it was peopled by the Hebrews.

John De Laët, a Flemish writer, has controverted the opinions of these
Spanish fathers, and of many others who have written on the same
subject. The hypothesis he endeavours to establish, is, that America was
certainly peopled by the Scythians or Tartars; and that the
transmigration of these people happened soon after the dispersion of
Noah’s grandsons. He undertakes to show, that the most northern
Americans have a greater resemblance, not only in the features of their
countenances, but also in their complexion and manner of living, to the
Scythians, Tartars, and Samoeides, than to any other nations.

In answer to Grotius, who had asserted that some of the Norwegians
passed into America by way of Greenland, and over a vast continent, he
says, that it is well known that Greenland was not discovered till the
year 964; and both Gomera and Herrera inform us that the Chichimeques
were settled on the Lake of Mexico in 721. He adds, that these savages,
according to the uniform tradition of the Mexicans who dispossessed
them, came from the country since called New Mexico, and from the
neighbourhood of California; consequently North America must have been
inhabited many ages before it could receive any inhabitants from Norway
by way of Greenland.

It is no less certain, he observes, that the real Mexicans founded their
empire in 902, after having subdued the Chichimeques, the Otomias, and
other barbarous nations, who had taken possession of the country round
the Lake of Mexico, and each of whom spoke a language peculiar to
themselves. The real Mexicans are likewise supposed to come from some of
the countries that lie near California, and that they performed their
journey for the most part by land; of course they could not come from
Norway.

De Laët further adds, that though some of the inhabitants of North
America may have entered it from the north-west, yet, as it is related
by Pliny and some other writers, that on many of the islands near the
western coast of Africa, particularly on the Canaries, some ancient
edifices were seen, it is highly probable from their being now deserted,
that the inhabitants may have passed over to America; the passage being
neither long nor difficult. This migration, according to the calculation
of those authors, must have happened more than two thousand years ago,
at a time when the Spaniards were much troubled by the Carthaginians;
from whom having obtained a knowledge of Navigation, and the
construction of ships, they might have retired to the Antilles, by the
way of the western isles, which were exactly half way on their voyage.

He thinks also that Great Britain, Ireland, and the Orcades were
extremely proper to admit of a similar conjecture. As a proof, he
inserts the following passage from the History of Wales, written by Dr.
David Powel in the year 1170.

This historian says, that Madoc, one of the sons of Prince Owen
Gwynnith, being disgusted at the civil wars which broke out between his
brothers, after the death of their father, fitted out several vessels,
and having provided them with every thing necessary for a long voyage,
went in quest of new lands to the westward of Ireland; there he
discovered very fertile countries, but destitute of inhabitants; when
landing part of his people, he returned to Britain, where he raised new
levies, and afterwards transported them to his colony.

The Flemish Author then returns to the Scythians, between whom and the
Americans he draws a parallel. He observes that several nations of them
to the north of the Caspian Sea led a wandering life; which, as well as
many other of their customs, and way of living, agrees in many
circumstances with the Indians of America. And though the resemblances
are not absolutely perfect, yet the emigrants, even before they left
their own country, differed from each other, and went not by the same
name. Their change of abode affected what remained.

He further says, that a similar likeness exists between several American
nations, and the Samoeides who are settled, according to the Russian
accounts, on the great River Oby. And it is more natural, continues he,
to suppose that Colonies of these nations passed over to America by
crossing the icy sea on their sledges, than for the Norwegians to travel
all the way Grotius has marked out for them.

This writer makes many other remarks that are equally sensible, and
which appear to be just; but he intermixes with these some that are not
so well-founded.

Emanuel de Moraez, a Portuguese, in his history of Brazil, asserts that
America has been wholly peopled by the Carthaginians and Israelites. He
brings as a proof of this assertion the discoveries the former are known
to have made at a great distance beyond the coast of Africa. The
progress of which being put a stop to by the senate of Carthage, those
who happened to be then in the newly discovered countries, being cut off
from all communication with their countrymen, and destitute of many
necessaries of life, fell into a state of barbarism. As to the
Israelites, this author thinks that nothing but circumcision is wanted
in order to constitute a perfect resemblance between them and the
Brazilians.

George De Hornn, a learned Dutchman, has likewise written on this
subject. He sets out with declaring, that he does not believe it
possible America could have been peopled before the flood, considering
the short space of time which elapsed between the creation of the world
and that memorable event. In the next place he lays it down as a
principle, that after the deluge, men and other terrestrial animals
penetrated into that country both by sea and by land; some through
accident, and some from a formed design. That birds got thither by
flight; which they were enabled to do by resting on the rocks and
islands that are scattered about in the Ocean.

He further observes, that wild beasts may have found a free passage by
land; and that if we do not meet with horses or cattle (to which he
might have added elephants, camels, rhinoceros, and beasts of many other
kinds) it is because those nations that passed thither, were either not
acquainted with their use, or had no convenience to support them.

Having totally excluded many nations that others have admitted as the
probable first settlers of America, for which he gives substantial
reasons, he supposes that it began to be peopled by the north; and
maintains, that the primitive colonies spread themselves by the means of
the isthmus of Panama through the whole extent of the continent.

He believes that the first founders of the Indian Colonies were
Scythians. That the Phœnicians and Carthaginians afterwards got footing
in America across the Atlantic Ocean, and the Chinese by way of the
Pacific. And that other nations might from time to time have landed
there by one or other of these ways, or might possibly have been thrown
on the coast by tempests: since, through the whole extent of that
Continent, both in its northern and southern parts, we meet with
undoubted marks of a mixture of the northern nations with those who have
come from other places. And lastly, that some Jews and Christians might
have been carried there by such like events, but that this must have
happened at a time when the whole of the new world was already peopled.

After all, he acknowledges that great difficulties attend the
determination of the question. These, he says, are occasioned in the
first place by the imperfect knowledge we have of the extremities of the
globe, towards the north and south pole; and in the next place to the
havock which the Spaniards, the first discoverers of the new world, made
among its most ancient monuments; as witness the great double road
betwixt Quito and Cuzco, an undertaking so stupendous, that even the
most magnificent of those executed by the Romans cannot be compared to
it.

He supposes also another migration of the Phœnicians, than those already
mentioned, to have taken place; and this was during a three years voyage
made by the Tyrian fleet in the service of King Solomon. He asserts on
the authority of Josephus, that the port at which this embarkation was
made lay in the Mediterranean. The fleet, he adds, went in quest of
elephants teeth and peacocks to the western Coast of Africa, which is
Tarsish; then to Ophir for gold, which is Haité, or the island of
Hispaniola; and in the latter opinion he is supported by Columbus, who,
when he discovered that island, thought he could trace the furnaces in
which the gold was refined.

To these migrations which preceded the Christian æra, he adds many
others of a later date from different nations, but these I have not time
to enumerate. For the same reason I am obliged to pass over numberless
writers on this subject; and shall content myself with only giving the
sentiments of two or three more.

The first of these is Pierre De Charlevoix, a Frenchman, who, in his
journal of a voyage to North America, made so lately as the year 1720,
has recapitulated the opinions of a variety of authors on this head, to
which he has subjoined his own conjectures. But the latter cannot
without some difficulty be extracted, as they are so interwoven with the
passages he has quoted, that it requires much attention to discriminate
them.

He seems to allow that America might have received its first inhabitants
from Tartary and Hyrcania. This he confirms, by observing that the lions
and tigers which are found in the former, must have come from those
countries, and whose passage serves for a proof that the two hemispheres
join to the northward of Asia. He then draws a corroboration of this
argument, from a story he says he has often heard related by Father
Grollon, a French jesuit, as an undoubted matter of fact.

This Father, after having laboured some time in the missions of New
France, passed over to those of China. One day as he was travelling in
Tartary, he met a Huron woman whom he had formerly known in Canada. He
asked her by what adventure she had been carried into a country so
distant from her own. She made answer, that having been taken in war,
she had been conducted from nation to nation, till she had reached the
place at which she then was.

Monsieur Charlevoix says further, that he had been assured, another
Jesuit, passing through Nantz in his return from China, had related much
such another affair of a Spanish woman from Florida. She also had been
taken by certain Indians, and given to those of a more distant country;
and by these again to another nation, till having thus been successively
passed from country to country, and traveled through regions extremely
cold, she at last found herself in Tartary. Here she had married a
Tartar, who had attended the conquerors into China, where she was then
settled.

He acknowledges as an allay to the probability of these stories, that
those who had sailed farthest to the eastward of Asia, by pursuing the
Coast of Jesso or Kamtschatka, have pretended that they had perceived
the extremity of this continent; and from thence have concluded that
there could not possibly be any communication by land. But he adds that
Francis Guella, a Spaniard, is said to have asserted, that this
separation is no more than a straight, about one hundred miles over, and
that some late voyages of the Japonese give grounds to think that this
straight is only a bay, above which there is a passage over land.

He goes on to observe, that though there are few wild beasts to be met
with in North America, except a kind of tigers without spots, which are
found in the country of the Iroquoise, yet towards the tropics there are
lions and real tigers, which, notwithstanding, might have come from
Hyrcania and Tartary; for as by advancing gradually southward they met
with climates more agreeable to their natures, they have in time
abandoned the northern countries.

He quotes both Solinus and Pliny to prove that the Scythian
Anthropophagi once depopulated a great extent of country, as far as the
promontory Tabin; and also an author of later date, Mark Pol, a
Venetian, who, he says, tells us, that to the north-east of China and
Tartary there are vast uninhabited countries, which might be sufficient
to confirm any conjectures concerning the retreat of a great number of
Scythians into America.

To this he adds, that we find in the antients the names of some of these
nations. Pliny speaks of the Tabians; Solinus mentions the Apuleans, who
had for neighbours the Massagetes, whom Pliny since assures us to have
entirely disappeared. Ammianus Marcellinus expresly tells us, that the
fear of the Anthropophagi obliged several of the inhabitants of those
countries to take refuge elsewhere. From all these authorities Mons.
Charlevoix concludes, that there is at least room to conjecture that
more than one nation in America had a Scythian or Tartarian original.

He finishes his remarks on the authors he has quoted, by the following
observations: It appears to me that this controversy may be reduced to
the two following articles; first, how the new world might have been
peopled; and secondly, by whom, and by what means it has been peopled.

Nothing, he asserts, may be more easily answered than the first. America
might have been peopled as the three other parts of the world have been.
Many difficulties have been formed on this subject, which have been
deemed insolvable, but which are far from being so. The inhabitants of
both hemispheres are certainly the descendants of the same father; the
common parent of mankind received an express command from heaven to
people the whole world, and accordingly it has been peopled.

To bring this about it was necessary to overcome all difficulties that
lay in the way, and they have been got over. Were these difficulties
greater with respect to peopling the extremities of Asia, Africa, and
Europe, or the transporting men into the islands which lie at a
considerable distance from those continents, than to pass over into
America? certainly not.

Navigation, which has arrived at so great perfection within these three
or four centuries, might possibly have been more perfect in those early
ages than at this day. Who can believe that Noah and his immediate
descendants knew less of this art than we do? That the builder and pilot
of the largest ship that ever was, a ship that was formed to traverse an
unbounded ocean, and had so many shoals and quicksands to guard against,
should be ignorant of, or should not have communicated to those of his
descendants who survived him, and by whose means he was to execute the
order of the Great Creator; I say, who can believe he should not have
communicated to them the art of sailing upon an ocean, which was not
only more calm and pacific, but at the same time confined within its
ancient limits?

Admitting this, how easy is it to pass, exclusive of the passage already
described, by land from the coast of Africa to Brazil, from the Canaries
to the Western Islands, and from them to the Antilles? From the British
Isles, or the coast of France, to Newfoundland, the passage is neither
long nor difficult; I might say as much of that from China to Japan;
from Japan, or the Phillipines, to the Isles Mariannes; and from thence
to Mexico.

There are islands at a considerable distance from the continent of Asia,
where we have not been surprized to find inhabitants, why then should we
wonder to meet with people in America? Nor can it be imagined that the
grandsons of Noah, when they were obliged to separate and spread
themselves in conformity to the designs of God, over the whole earth,
should find it absolutely impossible to people almost one half of it.

I have been more copious in my extracts from this author than I
intended, as his reasons appear to be solid, and many of his
observations just. From this encomium, however, I must exclude the
stories he has introduced of the Huron and Floridan women, which I think
I might venture to pronounce fabulous.

I shall only add, to give my Readers a more comprehensive view of Mons.
Charlevoix’s dissertation, the method he proposes to come at the truth
of what we are in search of.

The only means by which this can be done, he says, is by comparing the
languages of the Americans with the different nations, from whence we
might suppose they have peregrinated. If we compare the former with
those words that are considered as primitives, it might possibly set us
upon some happy discovery. And this way of ascending to the original of
nations, which is by far the least equivocal, is not so difficult as
might be imagined. We have had, and still have, travellers and
missionaries who have attained the languages that are spoken in all the
provinces of the new world; it would only be necessary to make a
collection of their grammars and vocabularies, and to collate them with
the dead and living languages of the old world, that pass for originals,
and the similarity might easily be traced. Even the different dialects,
in spite of the alterations they have undergone, still retain enough of
the mother tongue to furnish considerable lights.

Any enquiry into the manners, customs, religion, or traditions of the
Americans, in order to discover by that means their origin, he thinks
would prove fallacious. A disquisition of that kind, he observes, is
only capable of producing a false light, more likely to dazzle, and to
make us wander from the right path, than to lead us with certainty to
the point proposed.

Ancient traditions are effaced from the minds of such as either have
not, or for several ages have been without, those helps that are
necessary to preserve them. And in this situation is full one half of
the world. New events, and a new arrangement of things, give rise to new
traditions, which efface the former, and are themselves effaced in turn.
After one or two centuries have passed, there no longer remain any
traces of the first traditions; and thus we are involved in a state of
uncertainty.

He concludes with the following remarks, among many others. Unforeseen
accidents, tempests, and shipwrecks, have certainly contributed to
people every habitable part of the world: and ought we to wonder, after
this, at perceiving certain resemblances, both of persons and manners,
between nations that are most remote from each other, when we find such
a difference between those that border on one another? As we are
destitute of historical monuments, there is nothing, I repeat it, but a
knowledge of the primitive languages that is capable of throwing any
light upon these clouds of impenetrable darkness.

By this enquiry we should at least be satisfied, among that prodigious
number of various nations inhabiting America, and differing so much in
languages from each other, which are those who make use of words totally
and entirely different from those of the old world, and who consequently
must be reckoned to have passed over to America in the earliest ages,
and those who, from the analogy of their language with such as are at
present used in the three other parts of the globe, leave room to judge
that their migration has been more recent, and which ought to be
attributed to shipwrecks, or to some accident similar to those which
have been spoken of in the course of this treatise.

I shall only add the opinion of one author more before I give my own
sentiments on the subject, and that is of James Adair, Esq; who resided
forty years among the Indians, and published the history of them in the
year 1772. In his learned and systematical history of those nations,
inhabiting the western parts of the most southern of the American
colonies, this gentleman without hesitation pronounces that the American
Aborigines are descended from the Israelites, either whilst they were a
maritime power, or soon after their general captivity.

This descent he endeavours to prove from their religious rites, their
civil and martial customs, their marriages, their funeral ceremonies,
their manners, language, traditions, and from a variety of other
particulars. And so complete is his conviction on this head, that he
fancies he finds a perfect and indisputable similitude in each. Through
all these I have not time to follow him, and shall therefore only give a
few extracts to show on what foundation he builds his conjectures, and
what degree of credit he is entitled to on this point.

He begins with observing, that though some have supposed the Americans
to be descended from the Chinese, yet neither their religion, laws, or
customs agree in the least with those of the Chinese; which sufficiently
proves that they are not of this line. Besides, as our best ships are
now almost half a year in sailing for China (our author does not here
recollect that this is from a high northern latitude, across the Line,
and then back again greatly to the northward of it, and not directly
athwart the Pacific Ocean for only one hundred and eleven degrees) or
from thence to Europe, it is very unlikely they should attempt such
dangerous discoveries, with their supposed small vessels, against rapid
currents, and in dark and sickly Monsoons.

He further remarks, that this is more particularly improbable, as there
is reason to believe that this nation was unacquainted with the use of
the loadstone to direct their course. China, he says, is about eight
thousand miles distant from the American continent, which is twice as
far as across the Atlantic Ocean. And we are not informed by any ancient
writer of their maritime skill, or so much as any inclination that way,
besides small coasting voyages. The winds blow likewise, with little
variation from east to west within the latitudes thirty and odd, north
and south; and therefore these could not drive them on the American
coast, it lying directly contrary to such a course.

Neither could persons, according to this writer’s account, sail to
America from the north by the way of Tartary or Ancient Scythia; that,
from its situation, never having been or can be a maritime power; and it
is utterly impracticable, he says, for any to come to America by sea
from that quarter. Besides, the remaining traces of their religious
ceremonies and civil and martial customs are quite opposite to the like
vestiges of the Old Scythians. Even in the moderate northern climates
there is not to be seen the least trace of any ancient stately
buildings, or of any thick settlements, as are said to remain in the
less healthy regions of Peru and Mexico. And several of the Indian
nations assure us, that they crossed the Mississippi before they made
their present northern settlements; which, connected with the former
arguments, he concludes will sufficiently explode that weak opinion of
the American Aborigines being lineally descended from the Tartars or
ancient Scythians.

Mr. Adair’s reasons for supposing that the Americans derive their origin
from the Jews are,

First, because they are divided into tribes, and have chiefs over them
as the Israelites had.

Secondly, because, as by a strict permanent divine precept, the Hebrew
nation were ordered to worship, at Jerusalem, Jehovah the true and
living God, so do the Indians, stiling him Yohewah. The ancient
Heathens, he adds, it is well known worshipped a plurality of gods, but
the Indians pay their religious devoirs to the Great beneficent supreme
holy Spirit of Fire, who resides, as they think, above the clouds, and
on earth also with unpolluted people. They pay no adoration to images,
or to dead persons, neither to the celestial luminaries, to evil
spirits, nor to any created beings whatever.

Thirdly, because, agreeable to the theocracy or divine government of
Israel, the Indians think the deity to be the immediate head of their
state.

Fourthly, because, as the Jews believe in the ministration of angels,
the Indians also believe that the higher regions are inhabited by good
spirits.

Fifthly, because the Indian language and dialects appear to have the
very idiom and genius of the Hebrew. Their words and sentences being
expressive, concise, emphatical, sonorous, and bold; and often, both in
letters, and signification, are synonimous with the Hebrew language.

Sixthly, because they count their time after the manner of the Hebrews.

Seventhly, because in conformity to, or after the manner of the Jews,
they have their prophets, high-priests, and other religious orders.

Eighthly, because their festivals, fasts, and religious rites have a
great resemblance to those of the Hebrews.

Ninthly, because the Indians, before they go to war, have many
preparatory ceremonies of purification and fasting, like what is
recorded of the Israelites.

Tenthly, because the same taste for ornaments, and the same kind are
made use of by the Indians, as by the Hebrews.

These and many other arguments of a similar nature, Mr. Adair brings in
support of his favourite system; but I should imagine, that if the
Indians are really derived from the Hebrews, among their religious
ceremonies, on which he chiefly seems to build his hypothesis, the
principal, that of circumcision, would never have been laid aside, and
its very remembrance obliterated.

Thus numerous and diverse are the opinions of those who have hitherto
written on this subject! I shall not, however, either endeavour to
reconcile them, or to point out the errors of each, but proceed to give
my own sentiments on the origin of the Americans; which are founded on
conclusions drawn from the most rational arguments of the writers I have
mentioned, and from my own observations; the consistency of these I
shall leave to the judgment of my Readers.

The better to introduce my conjectures on this head, it is necessary
first to ascertain the distances between America and those parts of the
habitable globe that approach nearest to it.

The Continent of America, as far as we can judge from all the researches
that have been made near the poles, appears to be entirely separated
from the other quarters of the world. That part of Europe which
approaches nearest to it, is the coast of Greenland, lying in about
seventy degrees of north latitude; and which reaches within twelve
degrees of the coast of Labrador, situated on the north-east borders of
this continent. The coast of Guinea is the nearest part of Africa; which
lies about eighteen hundred and sixty miles north-east from the Brazils.
The most eastern coast of Asia, which extends to the Korean Sea on the
north of China, projects north-east through eastern Tartary and
Kamschatka to Siberia, in about sixty degrees of north latitude. Towards
which the western coasts of America, from California to the Straights of
Annian, extend nearly north-west, and lie in about forty-six degrees of
the same latitude.

Whether the Continent of America stretches any farther north than these
straights, and joins to the eastern parts of Asia, agreeable to what has
been asserted by some of the writers I have quoted, or whether the lands
that have been discovered in the intermediate parts are only an
archipelago of islands verging towards the opposite continent, is not
yet ascertained.

It being, however, certain that there are many considerable islands
which lie between the extremities of Asia and America, viz. Japon, Yeso
or Jedso, Gama’s Land, Behring’s Isle, with many others discovered by
Tschirikow, and besides these, from fifty degrees north there appearing
to be a cluster of islands that reach as far as Siberia, it is probable
from their proximity to America, that it received its first inhabitants
from them.

This conclusion is the most rational I am able to draw, supposing that
since the Aborigines got footing on this continent, no extraordinary or
sudden change in the position or surface of it has taken place, from
inundations, earthquakes, or any revolutions of the earth that we are at
present unacquainted with.

To me it appears highly improbable that it should have been peopled from
different quarters, across the Ocean, as others have asserted. From the
size of the ships made use of in those early ages, and the want of the
compass, it cannot be supposed that any maritime nation would by choice
venture over the unfathomable Ocean in search of distant continents. Had
this however been attempted, or had America been first accidentally
peopled from ships freighted with passengers of both sexes which were
driven by strong easterly winds across the Atlantic, these settlers must
have retained some traces of the language of the country from whence
they migrated; and this since the discovery of it by the Europeans must
have been made out. It also appears extraordinary that several of these
accidental migrations, as allowed by some, and these from different
parts, should have taken place.

Upon the whole, after the most critical enquiries, and the maturest
deliberation, I am of opinion, that America received its first
inhabitants from the north-east, by way of the great archipelago just
mentioned, and from these alone. But this might have been effected at
different times, and from various parts: from Tartary, China, Japon, or
Kamschatka, the inhabitants of these places resembling each other in
colour, features, and shape; and who, before some of them acquired a
knowledge of the arts and sciences, might have likewise resembled each
other in their manners, customs, religion, and language.

The only difference between the Chinese nation and the Tartars lies in
the cultivated state of the one, and the unpolished situation of the
others. The former have become a commercial people, and dwell in houses
formed into regular towns and cities; the latter live chiefly in tents,
and rove about in different hords, without any fixed abode. Nor can the
long and bloody wars these two nations have been engaged in, exterminate
their hereditary similitude. The present family of the Chinese emperors
is of Tartarian extraction; and if they were not sensible of some claim
beside that of conquest, so numerous a people would scarcely sit quiet
under the dominion of strangers.

It is very evident that some of the manners and customs of the American
Indians resemble those of the Tartars; and I make no doubt but that in
some future æra, and this not a very distant one, it will be reduced to
a certainty, that during some of the wars between the Tartars and the
Chinese, a part of the inhabitants of the northern provinces were driven
from their native country, and took refuge in some of the isles
before-mentioned, and from thence found their way into America. At
different periods each nation might prove victorious, and the conquered
by turns fly before their conquerors; and from hence might arise the
similitude of the Indians to all these people, and that animosity which
exists between so many of their tribes.

It appears plainly to me that a great similarity between the Indian and
Chinese is conspicuous in that particular custom of shaving or plucking
off the hair, and leaving only a small tuft on the crown of the head.
This mode is said to have been enjoined by the Tartarian emperors on
their accession to the throne of China, and consequently is a further
proof that this custom was in use among the Tartars; to whom as well as
the Chinese, the Americans might be indebted for it.

Many words also are used both by the Chinese and Indians, which have a
resemblance to each other, not only in their sound, but their
signification. The Chinese call a slave, shungo; and the Naudowessie
Indians, whose language from their little intercourse with the Europeans
is the least corrupted, term a dog, shungush. The former denominate one
species of their tea, shousong; the latter call their tobacco,
shousassau. Many other of the words used by the Indians contain the
syllables che, chaw, and chu, after the dialect of the Chinese.

There probably might be found a similar connection between the language
of the Tartars and the American Aborigines, were we as well acquainted
with it as we are, from a commercial intercourse, with that of the
Chinese.

I am confirmed in these conjectures, by the accounts of Kamschatka
published a few years ago by order of the Empress of Russia. The author
of which says, that the sea which divides that peninsula from America is
full of islands; and that the distance between Tschukotskoi-Noss, a
promontory which lies at the eastern extremity of that country, and the
coast of America, is not more than two degrees and a half of a great
circle. He further says, that there is the greatest reason to suppose
that Asia and America once joined at this place, as the coasts of both
continents appear to have been broken into capes and bays, which answer
each other; more especially as the inhabitants of this part of both
resemble each other in their persons, habits, customs, and food. Their
language, indeed, he observes, does not appear to be the same, but then
the inhabitants of each district in Kamschatka speak a language as
different from each other, as from that spoken on the opposite coast.
These observations, to which he adds, the similarity of the boats of the
inhabitants of each coast, and a remark that the natives of this part of
America are wholly strangers to wine and tobacco, which he looks upon as
a proof that they have as yet had no communication with the natives of
Europe, he says, amount to little less than a demonstration that America
was peopled from this part of Asia.

The limits of my present undertaking will not permit me to dwell any
longer on this subject, or to enumerate any other proofs in favour of my
hypothesis. I am however so thoroughly convinced of the certainty of it,
and so desirous have I been to obtain every testimony which can be
procured in its support, that I once made an offer to a private society
of gentlemen, who were curious in such researches, and to whom I had
communicated my sentiments on this point, that I would undertake a
journey, on receiving such supplies as were needful, through the
north-east parts of Europe and Asia to the interior parts of America,
and from thence to England; making, as I proceeded, such observations
both on the languages and manners of the people with whom I should be
conversant, as might tend to illustrate the doctrine I have here laid
down, and to satisfy the curiosity of the learned or inquisitive; but as
this proposal was judged rather to require a national than a private
support, it was not carried into execution.

I am happy to find, since I formed the foregoing conclusions, that they
correspond with the sentiments of that great and learned historian
Doctor Robertson; and though, with him, I acknowledge that the
investigation, from its nature, is so obscure and intricate that the
conjectures I have made can only be considered as conjectures, and not
indisputable conclusions, yet they carry with them a greater degree of
probability than the suppositions of those who assert that this
continent was peopled from another quarter.

One of the Doctor’s quotations from the Journals of Behring and
Tschirikow, who sailed from Kamschatka about the year 1741 in quest of
the New World, appears to carry great weight with it, and to afford our
conclusions firm support: “These commanders having shaped their course
towards the east, discovered land, which to them appeared to be part of
the American continent; and according to their observations, it seems to
be situated within a few degrees of the north-west coast of California.
They had there some intercourse with the inhabitants, who seemed to them
to resemble the North Americans; as they presented to the Russians the
Calumet or Pipe of Peace, which is a symbol of friendship universal
among the people of North America, and an usage of arbitrary institution
peculiar to them.”

One of this incomparable writer’s own arguments in support of his
hypothesis is also urged with great judgment, and appears to be nearly
conclusive. He says, “We may lay it down as a certain principle in this
enquiry, that America was not peopled by any nation of the ancient
continent, which had made considerable progress in civilization. The
inhabitants of the New World were in a state of society so extremely
rude, as to be unacquainted with those arts which are the first essays
of human ingenuity in its advance towards improvement. Even the most
cultivated nations of America were strangers to many of those simple
inventions, which were almost coeval with society in other parts of the
world, and were known in the earliest periods of civil life. From this
it is manifest that the tribes which originally migrated to America,
came off from nations which must have been no less barbarous than their
posterity, at the time when they were first discovered by the Europeans.
If ever the use of iron had been known to the savages of America, or to
their progenitors, if ever they had employed a plough, a loom, or a
forge, the utility of these inventions would have preserved them, and it
is impossible that they should have been abandoned or forgotten.”




                              CHAPTER II.

                    _Of their_ PERSONS, DRESS, _&c._


FROM the first settlement of the French in Canada, to the conquest of it
by the English in 1760, several of that nation, who had travelled into
the interior parts of North America, either to trade with the Indians,
or to endeavour to make converts of them, have published accounts of
their customs, manners, &c.

The principal of these are Father Louis Hennipin, Mons. Charlevoix, and
the Baron Le Hontan. The first, many years ago, published some very
judicious remarks, which he was the better enabled to do by the
assistance he received from the maps and diaries of the unfortunate
Mons. De la Salle, who was assassinated whilst he was on his travels, by
some of his own party. That gentleman’s journals falling into Father
Hennipin’s hands, he was enabled by them to publish many interesting
particulars relative to the Indians. But in some respects he fell very
short of that knowledge which it was in his power to have attained from
his long residence among them. Nor was he always (as has been already
observed) exact in his calculations, or just in the intelligence he has
given us.

The accounts published by the other two, particularly those of
Charlevoix, are very erroneous in the geographical parts, and many of
the stories told by the Baron are mere delusions.

Some of the Jesuits, who heretofore travelled into these parts, have
also written on this subject; but as few, if any, of their works have
been translated into the English language, the generality of Readers are
not benefitted by them; and, indeed, had this been done, they would have
reaped but few advantages from them, as they have chiefly confined their
observations to the religious principles of the savages, and the steps
taken for their conversion.

Since the conquest of Canada, some of our own countrymen, who have lived
among the Indians, and learned their language, have published their
observations; however as their travels have not extended to any of the
interior parts I treat of, but have only been made among the nations
that border on our settlements, a knowledge of the genuine and
uncontaminated customs and manners of the Indians could not have been
acquired by them.

The southern tribes, and those that have held a constant intercourse
with the French or English, cannot have preserved their manners or their
customs in their original purity. They could not avoid acquiring the
vices with the language of those they conversed with; and the frequent
intoxications they experienced through the baneful juices introduced
among them by the Europeans, have completed a total alteration in their
characters.

In such as these, a confused medley of principles or usages are only to
be observed; their real and unpolluted customs could be seen among those
nations alone that have held but little communications with the
provinces. These I found in the north-west parts, and therefore flatter
myself that I am able to give a more just account of the customs and
manners of the Indians, in their ancient purity, than any that has been
hitherto published. I have made observations on thirty nations, and
though most of these have differed in their languages, there has
appeared a great similarity in their manners, and from these have I
endeavoured to extract the following remarks.

As I do not propose to give a regular and connected system of Indian
concerns, but only to relate such particulars of their manners, customs,
&c. as I thought most worthy of notice, and which interfere as little as
possible with the accounts given by other writers, I must beg my Readers
to excuse their not being arranged systematically, or treated of in a
more copious manner.

The Indian nations do not appear to me to differ so widely in their
make, colour, or constitution from each other, as represented by some
writers. They are in general slight made, rather tall and strait, and
you seldom see any among them deformed; their skin is of a reddish or
copper colour; their eyes are large and black, and their hair of the
same hue, but very rarely is it curled; they have good teeth, and their
breath is as sweet as the air they draw in; their cheekbones rather
raised, but more so in the women than the men; the former are not quite
so tall as the European women, however you frequently meet with good
faces and agreeable persons among them, although they are more inclined
to be fat than the other sex.

I shall not enter into a particular enquiry whether the Indians are
indebted to nature, art, or the temperature of the climate for the
colour of their skin, nor shall I quote any of the contradictory
accounts I have read on this subject; I shall only say, that it appears
to me to be the tincture they received originally from the hands of
their Creator; but at what period the variation which is at present
visible both in the complexion and features of many nations took place,
at what time the European whiteness, the jetty hue of the African, or
the copper cast of the American were given them; which was the original
colour of the first inhabitants of the earth, or which might be esteemed
the most perfect, I will not pretend to determine.

Many writers have asserted, that the Indians, even at the maturest
period of their existence, are only furnished with hair on their heads;
and that notwithstanding the profusion with which that part is covered,
those parts which among the inhabitants of other climates are usually
the seat of this excrescence, remain entirely free from it. Even Doctor
Robertson, through their misrepresentations, has contributed to
propagate the error; and supposing the remark justly founded, has drawn
several conclusions from it relative to the habit and temperature of
their bodies, which are consequently invalid. But from minute enquiries,
and a curious inspection, I am able to declare (however respectable I
may hold the authority of these historians in other points) that their
assertions are erroneous, and proceeding from the want of a thorough
knowledge of the customs of the Indians.

After the age of puberty, their bodies, in their natural state, are
covered in the same manner as those of the Europeans. The men, indeed,
esteem a beard very unbecoming, and take great pains to get rid of it,
nor is there any ever to be perceived on their faces, except when they
grow old, and become inattentive to their appearance. Every crinous
efflorescence on the other parts of the body is held unseemly by them,
and both sexes employ much time in their extirpation.

The Naudowessies, and the remote nations, pluck them out with bent
pieces of hard wood, formed into a kind of nippers; whilst those who
have communication with Europeans procure from them wire, which they
twist into a screw or worm; applying this to the part, they press the
rings together, and with a sudden twitch draw out all the hairs that are
inclosed between them.

The men of every nation differ in their dress very little from each
other, except those who trade with the Europeans; these exchange their
furs for blankets, shirts, and other apparel, which they wear as much
for ornament as necessity. The latter fasten by a girdle around their
waists about half a yard of broadcloth, which covers the middle parts of
their bodies. Those who wear shirts never make them fast either at the
wrist or collar; this would be a most insufferable confinement to them.
They throw their blanket loose upon their shoulders, and holding the
upper side of it by the two corners, with a knife in one hand, and a
tobacco-pouch, pipe, &c. in the other, thus accoutred they walk about in
their villages or camps: but in their dances they seldom wear this
covering.

Those among the men who wish to appear gayer than the rest, pluck from
their heads all the hair except from a spot on the top of it, about the
size of a crown-piece, where it is permitted to grow to a considerable
length: on this are fastened plumes of feathers of various colours with
silver or ivory quills. The manner of cutting and ornamenting this part
of the head distinguishes different nations from each other.

They paint their faces red and black, which they esteem as greatly
ornamental. They also paint themselves when they go to war: but the
method they make use of on this occasion differs from that wherein they
use it merely as a decoration.

The young Indians, who are desirous of excelling their companions in
finery, slit the outward rim of both their ears; at the same time they
take care not to separate them entirely, but leave the flesh thus cut
still untouched at both extremities: around this spongy substance, from
the upper to the lower part, they twist brass wire, till the weight
draws the amputated rim into a bow of five or six inches diameter, and
drags it almost down to the shoulder. This decoration is esteemed to be
excessively gay and becoming.

It is also a common custom among them to bore their noses, and wear in
them pendants of different sorts. I observed that sea shells were much
worn by those of the interior parts, and reckoned very ornamental; but
how they procured them I could not learn: probably by their traffick
with other nations nearer the sea.

They go without any covering for the thigh, except that before spoken
of, round the middle, which reaches down half way the thighs; but they
make for their legs a sort of stocking either of skins or cloth: these
are sewed as near to the shape of the leg as possible, so as to admit of
being drawn on and off. The edges of the stuff of which they are
composed are left annexed to the seam, and hang loose for about the
breadth of a hand: and this part, which is placed on the outside of the
leg, is generally ornamented by those who have any communication with
Europeans, if of cloth, with ribands or lace, if of leather, with
embroidery and porcupine quills curiously . Strangers who hunt
among the Indians in the parts where there is a great deal of snow, find
these stockings much more convenient than any others.

[Illustration:

  Pl. 2.

  _A Man and Woman of the Ottigaumies._
]

Their shoes are made of the skin of the deer, elk, or buffalo: these,
after being sometimes dressed according to the European manner, at
others with the hair remaining on them, are cut into shoes, and
fashioned so as to be easy to the feet, and convenient for walking. The
edges round the ancle are decorated with pieces of brass or tin fixed
around leather strings, about an inch long, which being placed very
thick make a cheerful tinkling noise either when they walk or dance.

The women wear a covering of some kind or other from the neck to the
knees. Those who trade with the Europeans wear a linen garment the same
as that used by the men; the flaps of which hang over the petticoat.
Such as dress after their ancient manner, make a kind of shift with
leather, which covers the body but not the arms. Their petticoats are
made either of leather or cloth, and reach from the waist to the knee.
On their legs they wear stockings and shoes, made and ornamented as
those of the men.

They differ from each other in the mode of dressing their heads, each
following the custom of the nation or band to which they belong, and
adhering to the form made use of by their ancestors from time
immemorial.

I remarked that most of the females, who dwell on the east side of the
Mississippi, decorate their heads by inclosing their hair either in
ribands, or in plates of silver: the latter is only made use of by the
higher ranks, as it is a costly ornament. The silver they use on this
occasion is formed into thin plates of about four inches broad, in
several of which they confine their hair. That plate which is nearest
the head is of a considerable width; the next narrower, and made so as
to pass a little way under the other, and in this manner they fasten
into each other, and, gradually tapering, descend to the waist, as
represented in plate N^o II. The hair of the Indian women being in
general very long, this proves an expensive method.

But the women that live to the west of the Mississippi, viz. the
Naudowessies, the Assinipoils, &c. divide their hair in the middle of
the head, and form it into two rolls, one against each ear. These rolls
are about three inches long, and as large as their wrists. They hang in
a perpendicular attitude at the front of each ear, and descend as far as
the lower part of it. A more explicit idea may be formed of this mode by
referring to plate III.

[Illustration:

  Pl. 3.

  _A Man & Woman of the Naudowessie._
]

The women of every nation generally place a spot of paint, about the
size of a crown-piece, against each ear; some of them put paint on their
hair, and sometimes a small spot in the middle of the forehead.

The Indians, in general, pay a greater attention to their dress and to
the ornaments with which they decorate their persons, than to the
accommodation of their huts or tents. They construct the latter in the
following simple and expeditious manner.

Being provided with poles of a proper length, they fasten two of them
across, near their ends, with bands made of bark. Having done this, they
raise them up, and extend the bottom of each as wide as they purpose to
make the area of the tent: they then erect others of an equal height,
and fix them so as to support the two principal ones. On the whole they
lay skins of the elk or deer, sewed together, in quantity sufficient to
cover the poles, and by lapping over to form the door. A great number of
skins are sometimes required for this purpose, as some of their tents
are very capacious. That of the chief warrior of the Naudowessies was at
least forty feet in circumference, and very commodious.

They observe no regularity in fixing their tents when they encamp, but
place them just as it suits their conveniency.

The huts also, which those who use not tents, erect when they travel,
for very few tribes have fixed abodes or regular towns or villages, are
equally simple, and almost as soon constructed.

They fix small pliable poles in the ground, and bending them till they
meet at the top and form a semi-circle, then lash them together. These
they cover with mats made of rushes platted, or with birch bark, which
they carry with them in their canoes for this purpose.

These cabins have neither chimnies nor windows; there is only a small
aperture left in the middle of the roofs through which the smoke is
discharged, but as this is obliged to be stopped up when it rains or
snows violently, the smoke then proves exceedingly troublesome.

They lie on skins, generally those of the bear, which are placed in rows
on the ground; and if the floor is not large enough to contain beds
sufficient for the accommodation of the whole family, a frame is erected
about four or five feet from the ground, in which the younger part of it
sleep.

As the habitations of the Indians are thus rude, their domestic utensils
are few in number, and plain in their formation. The tools wherewith
they fashion them are so aukward and defective, that it is not only
impossible to form them with any degree of neatness or elegance, but the
time required in the execution is so considerable, as to deter them from
engaging in the manufacture of such as are not absolutely necessary.

The Naudowessies make the pots in which they boil their victuals of the
black clay or stone mentioned in my Journal; which resists the effects
of the fire nearly as well as iron. When they roast, if it is a large
joint or a whole animal, such as a beaver, they fix it as Europeans do,
on a spit made of a hard wood, and placing the ends on two forked props,
now and then turn it. If the piece is smaller they spit it as before,
and fixing the spit in an erect but slanting position, with the meat
inclining towards the fire, frequently change the sides, till every part
is sufficiently roasted.

They make their dishes in which they serve up their meat, and their
bowls and pans, out of the knotty excrescences of the maple tree, or any
other wood. They fashion their spoons with a tolerable decree of
neatness (as these require much less trouble than larger utensils) from
a wood that is termed in America Spoon Wood, and which greatly resembles
box wood.

Every tribe are now possessed of knives, and steels to strike fire with.
These being so essentially needful for the common uses of life, those
who have not an immediate communication with the European traders,
purchase them of such of their neighbours as are situated nearer the
settlements, and generally give in exchange for them slaves.




                              CHAPTER III.

               _Of their_ MANNERS, QUALIFICATIONS, _&c._


WHEN the Indian women sit down, they place themselves in a decent
attitude, with their knees close together; but from being accustomed to
this posture, they walk badly, and appear to be lame.

They have no midwives amongst them, their climate, or some peculiar
happiness in their constitutions, rendering any assistance at that time
unnecessary. On these occasions they are confined but a few hours from
their usual employments, which are commonly very laborious, as the men,
who are remarkably indolent, leave to them every kind of drugery; even
in their hunting parties the former will not deign to bring home the
game, but send their wives for it, though it lies at a very considerable
distance.

The women place their children soon after they are born on boards
stuffed with soft moss, such as is found in morasses or meadows. The
child is laid on its back in one of these kind of cradles, and, being
wrapped in skins or cloth to keep it warm, is secured in it by small
bent pieces of timber.

To these machines they fasten strings, by which they hang them to
branches of trees; or if they find not trees at hand, fasten them to a
stump or stone, whilst they transact any needful business. In this
position are the children kept for some months. When they are taken out,
the boys are suffered to go naked, and the girls are covered from the
neck to the knees with a shift and a short petticoat.

The Indian women are remarkably decent during their menstrual illness.
Those nations that are most remote from the European settlements, as the
Naudowessies, &c. are more particularly attentive to this point; though
they all without exception adhere in some degree to the same custom.

In every camp or town there is an apartment appropriated for their
retirement at this time, to which both single and married retreat, and
seclude themselves with the utmost strictness during this period from
all society. Afterwards they purify themselves in running streams, and
return to their different employments.

The men on these occasions most carefully avoid holding any
communication with them; and the Naudowessies are so rigid in this
observance, that they will not suffer any belonging to them to fetch
such things as are necessary, even fire, from these female lunar
retreats, though the want of them is attended with the greatest
inconvenience. They are also so superstitious as to think, if a pipe
stem cracks, which among them is made of wood, that the possessor has
either lighted it at one of these polluted fires, or held some converse
with a woman during her retirement, which is esteemed by them most
disgraceful and wicked.

The Indians are extremely circumspect and deliberate in every word and
action; there is nothing that hurries them into any intemperate warmth,
but that inveteracy to their enemies which is rooted in every Indian
heart, and never can be eradicated. In all other instances they are
cool, and remarkably cautious, taking care not to betray on any account
whatever their emotions. If an Indian has discovered that a friend is in
danger of being intercepted and cut off by one to whom he has rendered
himself obnoxious, he does not inform him in plain and explicit terms of
the danger he runs by pursuing the track near which his enemy lies in
wait for him, but he first coolly asks him which way he is going that
day; and having received his answer, with the same indifference tells
him that he has been informed that a dog lies near the spot, which might
probably do him a mischief. This hint proves sufficient; and his friend
avoids the danger with as much caution as if every design and motion of
his enemy had been pointed out to him.

This apathy often shews itself on occasions that would call forth all
the fervour of a susceptible heart. If an Indian has been absent from
his family and friends many months, either on a war or hunting party,
when his wife and children meet him at some distance from his
habitation, instead of the affectionate sensations that would naturally
arise in the breast of more refined beings, and be productive of mutual
congratulations, he continues his course without paying the least
attention to those who surround him, till he arrives at his home.

He there sits down, and with the same unconcern as if he had not been
absent a day, smokes his pipe; those of his acquaintance who have
followed him, do the same; and perhaps it is several hours before he
relates to them the incidents which have befallen him during his
absence, though perhaps he has left a father, brother, or son on the
field whose loss he ought to have lamented, or has been unsuccessful in
the undertaking that called him from his home.

Has an Indian been engaged for several days in the chace, or on any
other laborious expedition, and by accident continued thus long without
food, when he arrives at the hut or tent of a friend where he knows his
wants may be immediately supplied, he takes care not to show the least
symptoms of impatience, or to betray the extreme hunger by which he is
tortured; but on being invited in, sits contentedly down, and smokes his
pipe with as much composure as if every appetite was allayed, and he was
perfectly at ease; he does the same if among strangers. This custom is
strictly adhered to by every tribe, as they esteem it a proof of
fortitude, and think the reverse would intitle them to the appellation
of old women.

If you tell an Indian that his children have greatly signalized
themselves against an enemy, have taken many scalps, and brought home
many prisoners, he does not appear to feel any extraordinary pleasure on
the occasion; his answer generally is, “It is well,” and he makes very
little further enquiry about it. On the contrary, if you inform him that
his children are slain or taken prisoners, he makes no complaints, he
only replies, “It does not signify;” and probably, for some time at
least, asks not how it happened.

This seeming indifference, however, does not proceed from an entire
suppression of the natural affections; for notwithstanding they are
esteemed savages, I never saw among any other people greater proofs of
parental or filial tenderness; and although they meet their wives after
a long absence with the Stoical indifference just mentioned, they are
not in general void of conjugal affection.

Another peculiarity is observable in their manner of paying their
visits. If an Indian goes to visit a particular person in a family, he
mentions to whom his visit is intended, and the rest of the family
immediately retiring to the other end of the hut or tent are careful not
to come near enough to interrupt them during the whole of the
conversation. The same method is pursued if a man goes to pay his
respects to one of the other sex; but then he must be careful not to let
love be the subject of his discourse whilst the daylight remains.

The Indians discover an amazing sagacity, and acquire with the greatest
readiness any thing that depends upon the attention of the mind. By
experience and an acute observation, they attain many perfections to
which Europeans are strangers. For instance, they will cross a forest or
a plain which is two hundred miles in breadth, and reach with great
exactness the point at which they intend to arrive, keeping during the
whole of that space in a direct line, without any material deviations;
and this they will do with the same ease, whether the weather be fair or
cloudy.

With equal acuteness will they point to that part of the heavens the sun
is in, though it be intercepted by clouds or fogs. Besides this, they
are able to pursue with incredible facility the traces of man or beast,
either on leaves or grass; and on this account it is with great
difficulty a flying enemy escapes discovery.

They are indebted for these talents not only to nature, but to an
extraordinary command of the intellectual faculties, which can only be
acquired by an unremitted attention, and by long experience.

They are in general very happy in a retentive memory; they can
recapitulate every particular that has been treated of in council, and
remember the exact time when these were held. Their belts of wampum
preserve the substance of the treaties they have concluded with the
neighbouring tribes for ages back, to which they will appeal, and refer
with as much perspicuity and readiness as Europeans can to their written
records.

Every nation pays great respect to old age. The advice of a father will
seldom meet with any extraordinary attention from the young Indians,
probably they receive it with only a bare assent; but they will tremble
before a grandfather, and submit to his injunctions with the utmost
alacrity. The words of the ancient part of their community are esteemed
by the young as oracles. If they take during their hunting parties any
game that is reckoned by them uncommonly delicious, it is immediately
presented to the oldest of their relations.

They never suffer themselves to be overburdened with care, but live in a
state of perfect tranquillity and contentment. Being naturally indolent,
if provision just sufficient for their subsistence can be procured with
little trouble, and near at hand, they will not go far, or take any
extraordinary pains for it, though by so doing they might acquire
greater plenty and of a more estimable kind.

Having much leisure time they indulge this indolence to which they are
so prone, by eating, drinking, or sleeping, and rambling about in their
towns or camps. But when necessity obliges them to take the field,
either to oppose an enemy, or to procure themselves food, they are alert
and indefatigable. Many instances of their activity on these occasions
will be given when I treat of their wars.

The infatuating spirit of gaming is not confined to Europe; the Indians
also feel the bewitching impulse, and often lose their arms, their
apparel, and every thing they are possessed of. In this case, however,
they do not follow the example of more refined gamesters, for they
neither murmur nor repine; not a fretful word escapes them, but they
bear the frowns of fortune with a philosophic composure.

The greatest blemish in their character is that savage disposition which
impels them to treat their enemies with a severity every other nation
shudders at. But if they are thus barbarous to those with whom they are
at war, they are friendly, hospitable, and humane in peace. It may with
truth be said of them, that they are the worst enemies, and the best
friends, of any people in the whole world.

The Indians in general are strangers to the passion of jealousy; and
brand a man with folly that is distrustful of his wife. Among some bands
the very idea is not known; as the most abandoned of their young men
very rarely attempt the virtue of married women, nor do these often put
themselves in the way of solicitation. Yet the Indian women in general
are of an amorous temperature, and before they are married are not the
less esteemed for the indulgence of their passions.

Whilst I was among the Naudowessies I observed that they paid uncommon
respect to one of their women, and found on enquiry that she was
intitled to it on account of a transaction, that in Europe would have
rendered her infamous.

They told me that when she was a young woman, for at the time I saw her
she was far advanced in life, she had given what they termed a rice
feast. According to an ancient but almost obsolete custom (which, as
Hamlet says, would have been more honoured in the breach, than the
observance) she invited forty of the principal warriors to her tent,
where having feasted them with rice and venison, she by turns regaled
each of them with a private desert, behind a screen fixed for this
purpose in the inner part of the tent.

She had the happiness to obtain by this profusion of courtesy, the
favour of her guests, and the approbation of the whole band. So sensible
were the young Indians of her extraordinary merit, that they vied with
each other for her hand, and in a very short time one of the principal
chiefs took her to wife, over whom she acquired great sway, and from
whom she received ever after incessant tokens of respect, and love.

It is however scarcely once in an age that any of the females are hardy
enough to make this feast, notwithstanding a husband of the first rank
awaits as a sure reward the successful giver of it; and the custom, I
since find, is peculiar to the Naudowessies.

The Indians in their common state are strangers to all distinction of
property, except in the articles of domestic use, which every one
considers as his own, and increases as circumstances admit. They are
extremely liberal to each other, and supply the deficiency of their
friends with any superfluity of their own.

In dangers they readily give assistance to those of their band who stand
in need of it, without any expectation of return, except of those just
rewards that are always conferred by the Indians on merit. Governed by
the plain and equitable laws of nature, every one is rewarded solely
according to his deserts; and their equality of condition, manners, and
privileges, with that constant and sociable familiarity which prevails
throughout every Indian nation, animates them with a pure and truly
patriotic spirit, that tends to the general good of the society to which
they belong.

If any of their neighbours are bereaved by death or by an enemy of their
children, those who are possessed of the greatest number of slaves,
supply the deficiency; and these are adopted by them and treated in
every respect as if they really were the children of the person to whom
they are presented.

The Indians, except those who live adjoining to the European colonies,
can form to themselves no idea of the value of money; they consider it,
when they are made acquainted with the uses to which it is applied by
other nations, as the source of innumerable evils. To it they attribute
all the mischiefs that are prevalent among Europeans, such as treachery,
plundering, devastations, and murder.

They esteem it irrational that one man should be possessed of a greater
quantity than another, and are amazed that any honour should be annexed
to the possession of it. But that the want of this useless metal should
be the cause of depriving persons of their liberty, and that on account
of this partial distribution of it, great numbers should be immured
within the dreary walls of a prison, cut off from that society of which
they constitute a part, exceeds their belief. Nor do they fail, on
hearing this part of the European system of government related, to
charge the institutors of it with a total want of humanity, and to brand
them with the names of savages and brutes.

They shew almost an equal degree of indifference for the productions of
art. When any of these are shewn them, they say, “It is pretty, I like
to look at it,” but are not inquisitive about the construction of it,
neither can they form proper conceptions of its use. But if you tell
them of a person who is able to run with great agility, that is well
skilled in hunting, can direct with unerring aim a gun, or bend with
ease a bow, that can dexterously work a canoe, understands the art of
war, is acquainted with the situation of a country, and can make his way
without a guide, through an immense forest, subsisting during this on a
small quantity of provisions, they are in raptures; they listen with
great attention to the pleasing tale, and bestow the highest
commendations on the hero of it.




                              CHAPTER IV.

                _Their Method of reckoning_ TIME, _&c._


CONSIDERING their ignorance of astronomy, time is very rationally
divided by the Indians. Those in the interior parts (and of those I
would generally be understood to speak) count their years by winters;
or, as they express themselves, by snows.

Some nations among them reckon their years by moons, and make them
consist of twelve synodical or lunar months, observing, when thirty
moons have waned, to add a supernumerary one, which they term the lost
moon; and then begin to count as before. They pay a great regard to the
first appearance of every moon, and on the occasion always repeat some
joyful sounds, stretching at the same time their hands towards it.

Every month has with them a name expressive of its season; for instance,
they call the month of March (in which their year generally begins at
the first New Moon after the vernal Equinox) the Worm Month or Moon;
because at this time the worms quit their retreats in the bark of the
trees, wood, &c. where they have sheltered themselves during the winter.

The month of April is termed by them the month of Plants. May, the Month
of Flowers. June, the Hot Moon. July, the Buck Moon. Their reason for
thus denominating these is obvious.

August, the Sturgeon Moon; because in this month they catch great
numbers of that fish.

September, the Corn Moon; because in that month they gather in their
Indian Corn.

October, the Travelling Moon; as they leave at this time their villages,
and travel towards the places where they intend to hunt during the
winter.

November, the Beaver Moon; for in this month the beavers begin to take
shelter in their houses, having laid up a sufficient store of provisions
for the winter season.

December, the Hunting Moon, because they employ this month in pursuit of
their game.

January, the Cold Moon, as it generally freezes harder, and the cold is
more intense in this than in any other month.

February they call the Snow Moon, because more snow commonly falls
during this month, than any other in the winter.

When the moon does not shine they say the moon is dead; and some call
the three last days of it the naked days. The moon’s first appearance
they term its coming to life again.

They make no division of weeks; but days they count by sleeps; half days
by pointing to the sun at noon; and quarters by the rising and the
setting of the sun: to express which in their traditions they make use
of very significant hieroglyphicks.

The Indians are totally unskilled in geography as well as all the other
sciences, and yet, as I have before hinted, they draw on their birch
bark very exact charts or maps of the countries with which they are
acquainted. The latitude and longitude is only wanting to make them
tolerably complete.

Their sole knowledge in astronomy consists in being able to point out
the pole-star; by which they regulate their course when they travel in
the night.

They reckon the distance of places, not by miles or leagues, but by a
day’s journey, which, according to the best calculations I could make,
appears to be about twenty English miles. These they also divide into
halves and quarters, and will demonstrate them in their maps with great
exactness, by the hieroglyphicks just mentioned, when they regulate in
council their war parties, or their most distant hunting excursions.

They have no idea of arithmetic; and though they are able to count to
any number, figures as well as letters appear mysterious to them, and
above their comprehension.

During my abode with the Naudowessies, some of the chiefs observing one
day a draft of an eclipse of the moon, in a book of astronomy which I
held in my hand, they desired I would permit them to look at it.
Happening to give them the book shut, they began to count the leaves
till they came to the place in which the plate was. After they had
viewed it, and asked many questions relative to it, I told them they
needed not to have taken so much pains to find the leaf on which it was
drawn, for I could not only tell in an instant the place, without
counting the leaves, but also how many preceded it.

They seemed greatly amazed at my assertion, and begged that I would
demonstrate to them the possibility of doing it. To this purpose I
desired the chief that held the book, to open it at any particular
place, and just shewing me the page carefully to conceal the edges of
the leaves, so that I might not be able to count them.

This he did with the greatest caution; notwithstanding which, by looking
at the folio, I told him, to his great surprize, the number of leaves.
He counted them regularly over, and discovered that I was exact. And
when, after repeated trials, the Indians found I could do it with great
readiness, and without ever erring in my calculation, they all seemed as
much astonished as if I had raised the dead. The only way they could
account for my knowledge, was by concluding that the book was a spirit,
and whispered me answers to whatever I demanded of it.

This circumstance, trifling as it might appear to those who are less
illiterate, contributed to increase my consequence, and to augment the
favourable opinion they already entertained of me.




                               CHAPTER V.

                      _Of their_ GOVERNMENT, _&c._


EVERY separate body of Indians is divided into bands or tribes; which
band or tribe forms a little community with the nation to which it
belongs. As the nation has some particular symbol by which it is
distinguished from others, so each tribe has a badge from which it is
denominated: as that of the Eagle, the Panther, the Tiger, the Buffalo,
&c. &c. One band of the Naudowessie is represented by a Snake, another a
Tortoise, a third a Squirrel, a fourth a Wolf, and a fifth a Buffalo.
Throughout every nation they particularize themselves in the same
manner, and the meanest person among them will remember his lineal
descent, and distinguish himself by his respective family.

Did not many circumstances tend to confute the supposition, I should be
almost induced to conclude from this distinction of tribes, and the
particular attachment of the Indians to them, that they derive their
origin, as some have asserted, from the Israelites.

Besides this, every nation distinguish themselves by the manner of
constructing their tents or huts. And so well versed are all the Indians
in this distinction, that though there appears to be no difference on
the nicest observation made by an European, yet they will immediately
discover, from the position of a pole left in the ground, what nation
has encamped on the spot many months before.

Every band has a chief who is termed the Great Chief or the chief
Warrior; and who is chosen in consideration of his experience in war,
and of his approved valour, to direct their military operations, and to
regulate all concerns belonging to that department. But this chief is
not considered as the head of the state; besides the great warrior who
is elected for his warlike qualifications, there is another who enjoys a
pre-eminence as his hereditary right, and has the more immediate
management of their civil affairs. This chief might with greater
propriety be denominated the Sachem; whose assent is necessary in all
conveyances and treaties, to which he affixes the mark of the tribe or
nation.

Though these two are considered as the heads of the band, and the latter
is usually denominated their king, yet the Indians are sensible of
neither civil or military subordination. As every one of them entertains
a high opinion of his consequence, and is extremely tenacious of his
liberty, all injunctions that carry with them the appearance of a
positive command, are instantly rejected with scorn.

On this account, it is seldom that their leaders are so indiscreet as to
give out any of their orders in a peremptory stile; a bare hint from a
chief that he thinks such a thing necessary to be done, instantly
arouses an emulation among the inferior ranks, and it is immediately
executed with great alacrity. By this method the disgustful part of the
command is evaded, and an authority that falls little short of absolute
sway instituted in its room.

Among the Indians no visible form of government is established; they
allow of no such distinction as magistrate and subject, every one
appearing to enjoy an independence that cannot be controlled. The object
of government among them is rather foreign than domestic, for their
attention seems more to be employed in preserving such an union among
the members of their tribe as will enable them to watch the motions of
their enemies, and to act against them with concert and vigour, than to
maintain interior order by any public regulations. If a scheme that
appears to be of service to the community is proposed by the chief,
every one is at liberty to chuse whether he will assist in carrying it
on; for they have no compulsory laws that lay them under any
restrictions. If violence is committed, or blood is shed, the right of
revenging these misdemeanours are left to the family of the injured; the
chiefs assume neither the power of inflicting or moderating the
punishment.

Some nations, where the dignity is hereditary, limit the succession to
the female line. On the death of a chief, his sister’s son sometimes
succeeds him in preference to his own son; and if he happens to have no
sister, the nearest female relation assumes the dignity. This accounts
for a woman being at the head of the Winnebagoe nation, which, before I
was acquainted with their laws, appeared strange to me.

Each family has a right to appoint one of its chiefs to be an assistant
to the principal chief, who watches over the interest of his family, and
without whose consent nothing of a public nature can be carried into
execution. These are generally chosen for their ability in speaking; and
such only are permitted to make orations in their councils and general
assemblies.

In this body, with the hereditary chief at its head, the supreme
authority appears to be lodged; as by its determination every
transaction relative to their hunting, to their making war or peace, and
to all their public concerns are regulated. Next to these, the body of
warriors, which comprehends all that are able to bear arms, hold their
rank. This division has sometimes at its head the chief of the nation,
if he has signalized himself by any renowned action, if not, some chief
that has rendered himself famous.

In their councils which are held by the foregoing members, every affair
of consequence is debated; and no enterprize of the least moment
undertaken, unless it there meets with the general approbation of the
chiefs. They commonly assemble in a hut or tent appropriated to this
purpose, and being seated in a circle on the ground, the eldest chief
rises and makes a speech; when he has concluded, another gets up; and
thus they all speak, if necessary, by turns.

On this occasion their language is nervous, and their manner of
expression, emphatical. Their style is adorned with images, comparisons,
and strong metaphors, and is equal in allegories to that of any of the
eastern nations. In all their set speeches they express themselves with
much vehemence, but in common discourse according to our usual method of
speech.

The young men are suffered to be present at the councils, though they
are not allowed to make a speech till they are regularly admitted: they
however listen with great attention, and to shew that they both
understand, and approve of the resolutions taken by the assembled
chiefs, they frequently exclaim, “That is right.” “That is good.”

The customary mode among all the ranks of expressing their assent, and
which they repeat at the end of almost every period, is by uttering a
kind of forcible aspiration, which sounds like an union of the letters
OAH.




                              CHAPTER VI.

                           _Of their_ FEASTS.


MANY of the Indian nations neither make use of bread, salt, or spices;
and some of them have never seen or tasted of either. The Naudowessies
in particular have no bread, nor any substitute for it. They eat the
wild rice which grows in great quantities in different parts of their
territories; but they boil it and eat it alone. They also eat the flesh
of the beasts they kill, without having recourse to any farinaceous
substance to absorb the grosser particles of it. And even when they
consume the sugar which they have extracted from the maple tree, they
use it not to render some other food palatable, but generally eat it by
itself.

Neither have they any idea of the use of milk, although they might
collect great quantities from the buffalo or the elk; they only consider
it as proper for the nutriment of the young of these beasts during their
tender state. I could not perceive that any inconveniency attended the
total disuse of articles esteemed so necessary and nutritious by other
nations, on the contrary, they are in general healthy and vigorous.

One dish however, which answers nearly the same purpose as bread, is in
use among the Ottagaumies, the Saukies, and the more eastern nations,
where Indian corn grows, which is not only much esteemed by them, but it
is reckoned extremely palatable by all the Europeans who enter their
dominions. This is composed of their unripe corn as before described,
and beans in the same state, boiled together with bears flesh, the fat
of which moistens the pulse, and renders it beyond comparison delicious.
They call this food Succatosh.

The Indians are far from being canibals, as they are said to be. All
their victuals are either roasted or boiled; and this in the extreme.
Their drink is generally the broth in which it has been boiled.

Their food consists of the flesh of the bear, the buffalo, the elk, the
deer, the beaver, and the racoon; which they prepare in the manner just
mentioned. They usually eat the flesh of the deer which is naturally
dry, with that of the bear which is fat and juicy; and though the latter
is extremely rich and luscious, it is never known to cloy.

In the spring of the year the Naudowessies eat the inside bark of a
shrub, that they gather in some part of their country; but I could
neither learn the name of it, or discover from whence they got it. It
was of a brittle nature and easily masticated. The taste of it was very
agreeable, and they said it was extremely nourishing. In flavour it was
not unlike the turnip, and when received into the mouth resembled that
root both in its pulpous and frangible nature.

The lower ranks of the Indians are exceedingly nasty in dressing their
victuals, but some of the chiefs are very neat and cleanly in their
apparel, tents, and food.

They commonly eat in large parties, so that their meals may properly be
termed feasts; and this they do without being restricted to any fixed or
regular hours, but just as their appetites require, and convenience
suits.

They usually dance either before or after every meal; and by this
cheerfulness probably render the Great Spirit, to whom they consider
themselves as indebted for every good, a more acceptable sacrifice than
a formal and unanimated thanksgiving. The men and women feast apart: and
each sex invite by turns their companions to partake with them of the
food they happen to have; but in their domestic way of living the men
and women eat together.

No people are more hospitable, kind, and free than the Indians. They
will readily share with any of their own tribe the last part of their
provisions, and even with those of a different nation, if they chance to
come in when they are eating. Though they do not keep one common stock,
yet that community of goods which is so prevalent among them, and their
generous disposition, render it nearly of the same effect.

When the chiefs are convened on any public business, they always
conclude with a feast, at which their festivity and cheerfulness knows
no limits.




                              CHAPTER VII.

                           _Of their_ DANCES.


DANCING is a favourite exercise among the Indians; they never meet on
any public occasion, but this makes a part of the entertainment. And
when they are not engaged in war or hunting, the youth of both sexes
amuse themselves in this manner every evening.

They always dance, as I have just observed, at their feast. In these as
well as all their other dances, every man rises in his turn, and moves
about with great freedom and boldness; singing as he does so, the
exploits of his ancestors. During this the company, who are seated on
the ground in a circle, around the dancer, join with him in marking the
cadence, by an odd tone, which they utter all together, and which
sounds, “Heh, heh, heh.” These notes, if they might be so termed, are
articulated with a harsh accent, and strained out with the utmost force
of their lungs; so that one would imagine their strength must be soon
exhausted by it; instead of which, they repeat it with the same violence
during the whole of their entertainment.

The women, particularly those of the western nations, dance very
gracefully. They carry themselves erect, and with their arms hanging
down close to their sides, move first a few yards to the right, and then
back again to the left. This movement they perform without taking any
steps as an European would do, but with their feet conjoined, moving by
turns their toes and heels. In this manner they glide with great agility
to a certain distance, and then return; and let those who join in the
dance be ever so numerous, they keep time so exactly with each other
that no interruption ensues. During this, at stated periods they mingle
their shrill voices with the hoarser ones of the men who sit around (for
it is to be observed that the sexes never intermix in the same dance)
which, with the music of the drums and chichicoues, make an agreeable
harmony.

The Indians have several kinds of dances which they use on different
occasions, as the Pipe or Calumate Dance, the War Dance, the Marriage
Dance, and the Dance of the Sacrifice. The movements in every one of
these are dissimilar; but it is almost impossible to convey any idea of
the points in which they are unlike.

Different nations likewise vary in their manner of dancing. The
Chipéways throw themselves into a greater variety of attitudes than any
other people; sometimes they hold their heads erect, at others they bend
them almost to the ground; then recline on one side, and immediately
after on the other. The Naudowessies carry themselves more upright, step
firmer, and move more gracefully. But they all accompany their dances
with the disagreeable noise just mentioned.

The Pipe Dance is the principal, and the most pleasing to a spectator of
any of them, being the least frantic, and the movement of it the most
graceful. It is but on particular occasions that it is used; as when
ambassadors from an enemy arrive to treat of peace, or when strangers of
eminence pass through their territories.

The War Dance, which they use both before they set out on their war
parties, and on their return from them, strikes terror into strangers.
It is performed, as the others, amidst a circle of the warriors; a chief
generally begins it, who moves from the right to the left, singing at
the same time both his own exploits, and those of his ancestors. When he
has concluded his account of any memorable action, he gives a violent
blow with his war-club against a post that is fixed in the ground, near
the center of the assembly, for this purpose.

Every one dances in his turn, and recapitulates the wondrous deeds of
his family, till they all at last join in the dance. Then it becomes
truly alarming to any stranger that happens to be among them, as they
throw themselves into every horrible and terrifying posture that can be
imagined, rehearsing at the same time the parts they expect to act
against their enemies in the field. During this they hold their sharp
knives in their hands, with which, as they whirl about, they are every
moment in danger of cutting each others throats; and did they not shun
the threatened mischief with inconceivable dexterity, it could not be
avoided. By these motions they intend to represent the manner in which
they kill, scalp, and take their prisoners. To heighten the scene, they
set up the same hideous yells, cries, and war-hoops they use in time of
action: so that it is impossible to consider them in any other light
than as an assembly of demons.

I have frequently joined in this dance with them, but it soon ceased to
be an amusement to me, as I could not lay aside my apprehensions of
receiving some dreadful wound, that from the violence of their gestures
must have proved mortal.

I found that the nations to the westward of the Mississippi, and on the
borders of Lake Superior, still continue to make use of the Pawwaw or
Black Dance. The people of the colonies tell a thousand ridiculous
stories of the devil being raised in this dance by the Indians. But they
allow that this was in former times, and is now nearly extinct among
those who live adjacent to the European settlements. However I
discovered that it was still used in the interior parts; and though I
did not actually see the devil raised by it, I was witness to some
scenes that could only be performed by such as dealt with him, or were
very expert and dextrous jugglers.

Whilst I was among the Naudowessies, a dance, which they thus termed,
was performed. Before the dance began, one of the Indians was admitted
into a society which they denominated Wakon-Kitchewah, that is, the
Friendly Society of the Spirit. This society is composed of persons of
both sexes, but such only can be admitted into it as are of
unexceptionable character, and who receive the approbation of the whole
body. To this admission succeeded the Pawwaw Dance (in which I saw
nothing that could give rise to the reports I had heard) and the whole,
according to their usual custom, concluded with a grand feast.

The initiation being attended with some very singular circumstances,
which, as I have before observed, must be either the effect of magic, or
of amazing dexterity, I shall give a particular account of the whole
procedure. It was performed at the time of the new moon, in a place
appropriated to the purpose near the centre of their camp, that would
contain about two hundred people. Being a stranger, and on all occasions
treated by them with great civility, I was invited to see the ceremony,
and placed close to the rails of the inclosure.

About twelve o’clock they began to assemble; when the sun shone bright,
which they considered as a good omen, for they never by choice hold any
of their public meetings unless the sky be clear and unclouded. A great
number of chiefs first appeared, who were dressed in their best apparel;
and after them came the head-warrior, clad in a long robe of rich furs
that trailed on the ground, attended by a retinue of fifteen or twenty
persons, painted and dressed in the gayest manner. Next followed the
wives of such as had been already admitted into the society; and in the
rear a confused heap of the lower ranks, all contributing as much as lay
in their power to make the appearance grand and showy.

When the assembly was seated, and silence proclaimed, one of the
principal chiefs arose, and in a short but masterly speech informed his
audience of the occasion of their meeting. He acquainted them that one
of their young men wished to be admitted into their society; and taking
him by the hand presented him to their view, asking them, at the same
time, whether they had any objection to his becoming one of their
community.

No objection being made, the young candidate was placed in the centre,
and four of the chiefs took their stations close to him; after exhorting
him, by turns, not to faint under the operation he was about to go
through, but to behave like an Indian and a man, two of them took hold
of his arms, and caused him to kneel; another placed himself behind him
so as to receive him when he fell, and the last of the four retired to
the distance of about twelve feet from him exactly in front.

This disposition being completed, the chief that stood before the
kneeling candidate, began to speak to him with an audible voice. He told
him that he himself was now agitated by the same spirit which he should
in a few moments communicate to him; that it would strike him dead, but
that he would instantly be restored again to life; to this he added,
that the communication, however terrifying, was a necessary introduction
to the advantages enjoyed by the community into which he was on the
point of being admitted.

As he spoke this, he appeared to be greatly agitated; till at last his
emotions became so violent, that his countenance was distorted, and his
whole frame convulsed. At this juncture he threw something that appeared
both in shape and colour like a small bean, at the young man, which
seemed to enter his mouth, and he instantly fell as motionless as if he
had been shot. The chief that was placed behind him received him in his
arms, and, by the assistance of the other two, laid him on the ground to
all appearance bereft of life.

Having done this, they immediately began to rub his limbs, and to strike
him on the back, giving him such blows, as seemed more calculated to
still the quick, than to raise the dead. During these extraordinary
applications, the speaker continued his harangue, desiring the
spectators not to be surprized, or to despair of the young man’s
recovery, as his present inanimate situation proceeded only from the
forcible operation of the spirit, on faculties that had hitherto been
unused to inspirations of this kind.

The candidate lay several minutes without sense or motion; but at
length, after receiving many violent blows, he began to discover some
symptoms of returning life. These, however, were attended with strong
convulsions, and an apparent obstruction in his throat. But they were
soon at an end; for having discharged from his mouth the bean, or
whatever it was that the chief had thrown at him, but which on the
closest inspection I had not perceived to enter it, he soon after
appeared to be tolerably recovered.

This part of the ceremony being happily effected, the officiating chiefs
disrobed him of the cloaths he had usually worn, and put on him a set of
apparel entirely new. When he was dressed, the speaker once more took
him by the hand, and presented him to the society as a regular and
thoroughly initiated member, exhorting them, at the same time, to give
him such necessary assistance, as being a young member, he might stand
in need of. He then also charged the newly elected brother to receive
with humility, and to follow with punctuality the advice of his elder
brethren.

All those who had been admitted within the rails, now formed a circle
around their new brother, and the music striking up, the great chief
sung a song, celebrating as usual their martial exploits.

The only music they make use of is a drum, which is composed of a piece
of a hollow tree curiously wrought, and over one end of which is
strained a skin, this they beat with a single stick, and it gives a
sound that is far from harmonious, but it just serves to beat time with.
To this they sometimes add the chichicoe, and in their war dances they
likewise use a kind of fife, formed of a reed, which makes a shrill
harsh noise.

The whole assembly were by this time united, and the dance began;
several singers assisted the music with their voices, and the women
joining in the chorus at certain intervals, they produced together a not
unpleasing but savage harmony. This was one of the most agreeable
entertainments I saw whilst I was among them.

I could not help laughing at a singular childish custom I observed they
introduced into this dance, and which was the only one that had the
least appearance of conjuration. Most of the members carried in their
hands an otter or martin’s skin, which being taken whole from the body,
and filled with wind, on being compressed made a squeaking noise through
a small piece of wood organically formed and fixed in its mouth. When
this instrument was presented to the face of any of the company, and the
sound emitted, the person receiving it instantly fell down to appearance
dead. Sometimes two or three, both men and women, were on the ground
together; but immediately recovering, they rose up and joined again in
the dance. This seemed to afford, even the chiefs themselves, infinite
diversion. I afterwards learned that these were their Dii Penates or
Houshold Gods.

After some hours spent in this manner the feast began; the dishes being
brought near me, I perceived that they consisted of dog’s flesh; and I
was informed that at all their public grand feasts they never made use
of any other kind of food. For this purpose, at the feast I am now
speaking of, the new candidate provides fat dogs, if they can be
procured at any price.

In this custom of eating dog’s flesh on particular occasions, they
resemble the inhabitants of some of the countries that lie on the
north-east borders of Asia. The author of the account of Kamschatka,
published by order of the Empress of Russia (before referred to) informs
us, that the people inhabiting Koreka, a country north of Kamschatka,
who wander about in hords like the Arabs, when they pay their worship to
the evil beings, kill a rein-deer or a dog, the flesh of which they eat,
and leave the head and tongue sticking on a pole with the front towards
the east. Also that when they are afraid of any infectious distemper,
they kill a dog, and winding the guts about two poles, pass between
them. These customs, in which they are nearly imitated by the Indians,
seem to add strength to my supposition, that America was first peopled
from this quarter.

I know not under what class of dances to rank that performed by the
Indians who came to my tent when I landed near Lake Pepin, on the banks
of the Mississippi, as related in my Journals. When I looked out, as I
there mentioned, I saw about twenty naked young Indians, the most
perfect in their shape, and by far the handsomest of any I had ever
seen, coming towards me, and dancing as they approached, to the music of
their drums. At every ten or twelve yards they halted, and set up their
yells and cries.

When they reached my tent, I asked them to come in; which, without
deigning to make me any answer, they did. As I observed that they were
painted red and black, as they usually are when they go against an
enemy, and perceived that some parts of the war-dance were intermixed
with their other movements, I doubted not but they were set on by the
inimical chief who had refused my salutation: I therefore determined to
sell my life as dear as possible. To this purpose, I received them
sitting on my chest, with my gun and pistols beside me, and ordered my
men to keep a watchful eye on them, and to be also upon their guard.

The Indians being entered, they continued their dance alternately,
singing at the same time of their heroic exploits, and the superiority
of their race over every other people. To enforce their language, though
it was uncommonly nervous and expressive, and such as would of itself
have carried terror to the firmest heart, at the end of every period
they struck their war-clubs against the poles of my tent, with such
violence, that I expected every moment it would have tumbled upon us. As
each of them, in dancing round, passed by me, they placed their right
hands over their eyes, and coming close to me, looked me steadily in the
face, which I could not construe into a token of friendship. My men gave
themselves up for lost, and I acknowledge, for my own part, that I never
found my apprehensions more tumultuous on any occasion.

When they had nearly ended their dance, I presented to them the pipe of
peace, but they would not receive it. I then, as my last resource,
thought I would try what presents would do; accordingly I took from my
chest some ribands and trinkets, which I laid before them. These seemed
to stagger their resolutions, and to avert in some degree their anger;
for after holding a consultation together, they sat down on the ground,
which I considered as a favourable omen.

Thus it proved, as in a short time they received the pipe of peace, and
lighting it, first presented it to me, and then smoaked with it
themselves. Soon after they took up the presents, which had hitherto
lain neglected, and appearing to be greatly pleased with them, departed
in a friendly manner. And never did I receive greater pleasure than at
getting rid of such formidable guests.

It was not ever in my power to gain a thorough knowledge of the designs
of my visiters. I had sufficient reason to conclude that they were
hostile, and that their visit, at so late an hour, was made through the
instigation of the Grand Sautor; but I was afterwards informed that it
might be intended as a compliment which they usually pay to the chiefs
of every other nation who happen to fall in with them, and that the
circumstances in their conduct, which had appeared so suspicious to me,
were merely the effects of their vanity, and designed to impress on the
minds of those whom they thus visited an elevated opinion of their
valour and prowess. In the morning before I continued my route, several
of their wives brought me a present of some sugar, for whom I found a
few more ribands.

The Dance of the sacrifice is not so denominated from their offering up
at the same time a sacrifice to any good or evil spirit, but is a dance
to which the Naudowessies give that title from being used when any
public fortunate circumstance befalls them. Whilst I resided among them,
a fine large deer accidentally strayed into the middle of their
encampment, which they soon destroyed. As this happened just at the new
moon, they esteemed it a lucky omen; and having roasted it whole, every
one in the camp partook of it. After their feast, they all joined in a
dance, which they termed, from its being somewhat of a religious nature,
a Dance of the sacrifice.




                             CHAPTER VIII.

                          _Of their_ HUNTING.


HUNTING is the principal occupation of the Indians; they are trained to
it from their earliest youth, and it is an exercise which is esteemed no
less honourable than necessary towards their subsistence. A dextrous and
resolute hunter is held nearly in as great estimation by them as a
distinguished warrior. Scarcely any device which the ingenuity of man
has discovered for ensnaring or destroying those animals that supply
them with food, or whose skins are valuable to Europeans, is unknown to
them.

Whilst they are engaged in this exercise, they shake off the indolence
peculiar to their nature, and become active, persevering, and
indefatigable. They are equally sagacious in finding their prey, and in
the means they use to destroy it. They discern the footsteps of the
beasts they are in pursuit of, although they are imperceptible to every
other eye, and can follow them with certainty through the pathless
forest.

The beasts that the Indians hunt, both for their flesh on which they
subsist, and for their skins, of which they either make their apparel,
or barter with the Europeans for necessaries, are the buffalo, the elk,
the deer, the moose, the carribboo, the bear, the beaver, the otter, the
martin, &c. I defer giving a description of these creatures here, and
shall only at present treat of their manner of hunting them.

The route they shall take for this purpose, and the parties that shall
go on the different expeditions are fixed in their general councils
which are held some time in the summer, when all the operations for the
ensuing winter are concluded on. The chief-warrior, whose province it is
to regulate their proceedings on this occasion, with great solemnity
issues out an invitation to those who choose to attend him; for the
Indians, as before observed, acknowledge no superiority, nor have they
any idea of compulsion; and every one that accepts it prepares himself
by fasting during several days.

The Indians do not fast as some other nations do, on the richest and
most luxurious food, but they totally abstain from every kind either of
victuals or drink; and such is their patience and resolution, that the
most extreme thirst could not oblige them to taste a drop of water; yet
amidst this severe abstinence they appear cheerful and happy.

The reasons they give for thus fasting, are, that it enables them freely
to dream, in which dreams they are informed where they shall find the
greatest plenty of game; and also that it averts the displeasure of the
evil spirits, and induces them to be propitious. They also on these
occasions blacken those parts of their bodies that are uncovered.

The fast being ended, and the place of hunting made known, the chief who
is to conduct them, gives a grand feast to those who are to form the
different parties; of which none of them dare to partake till they have
bathed themselves. At this feast, notwithstanding they have fasted so
long, they eat with great moderation; and the chief that presides
employs himself in rehearsing the feats of those who have been most
successful in the business they are about to enter upon. They soon after
set out on the march towards the place appointed, painted or rather
bedaubed with black, amidst the acclamations of all the people.

It is impossible to describe their agility or perseverance, whilst they
are in pursuit of their prey; neither thickets, ditches, torrents,
pools, or rivers stop them; they always go strait forward in the most
direct line they possibly can, and there are few of the savage
inhabitants of the woods that they cannot overtake.

When they hunt for bears, they endeavour to find out their retreats;
for, during the winter, these animals conceal themselves in the hollow
trunks of trees, or make themselves holes in the ground, where they
continue without food, whilst the severe weather lasts.

When the Indians think they have arrived at a place where these
creatures usually haunt, they form themselves into a circle according to
their number, and moving onward, endeavour, as they advance towards the
centre, to discover the retreats of their prey. By this means, if any
lie in the intermediate space, they are sure of arousing them, and
bringing them down either with their bows or their guns. The bears will
take to flight at sight of a man or a dog, and will only make resistance
when they are extremely hungry, or after they are wounded.

The Indian method of hunting the buffalo is by forming a circle or a
square, nearly in the same manner as when they search for the bear.
Having taken their different stations, they set the grass, which at this
time is rank and dry, on fire, and these animals, who are extremely
fearful of that element, flying with precipitation before it, great
numbers are hemmed in a small compass, and scarcely a single one
escapes.

They have different ways of hunting the elk, the deer, and the
carribboo. Sometimes they seek them out in the woods, to which they
retire during the severity of the cold, where they are easily shot from
behind the trees. In the more northern climates they take the advantage
of the weather to destroy the elk; when the sun has just strength enough
to melt the snow, and the frost in the night forms a kind of crust on
the surface, this creature being heavy, breaks it with his forked hoofs,
and with difficulty extricates himself from it: at this time therefore
he is soon overtaken and destroyed.

Some nations have a method of hunting these animals which is more easily
executed, and free from danger. The hunting party divide themselves into
two bands, and choosing a spot near the borders of some river, one party
embarks on board their canoes, whilst the other forming themselves into
a semi-circle on the land, the flanks of which reach the shore, let
loose their dogs, and by this means rouse all the game that lies within
these bounds; they then drive them towards the river, into which they no
sooner enter, than the greatest part of them are immediately dispatched
by those who remain in the canoes.

Both the elk and the buffalo are very furious when they are wounded, and
will return fiercely on their pursuers, and trample them under their
feet, if the hunter finds not means to complete their destruction, or
seeks for security in flight to some adjacent tree; by this method they
are frequently avoided, and so tired with the pursuit, that they
voluntarily give it over.

But the hunting in which the Indians, particularly those who inhabit the
northern parts, chiefly employ themselves, and from which they reap the
greatest advantage, is the beaver hunting. The season for this is
throughout the whole of the winter, from November to April; during which
time the fur of these creatures is in the greatest perfection. A
description of this extraordinary animal, the construction of their
huts, and the regulations of their almost rational community, I shall
give in another place.

The hunters make use of several methods to destroy them. Those generally
practised, are either that of taking them in snares, cutting through the
ice, or opening their causeways.

As the eyes of these animals are very quick, and their hearing
exceedingly acute, great precaution is necessary in approaching their
abodes; for as they seldom go far from the water, and their houses are
always built close to the side of some large river or lake, or dams of
their own constructing, upon the least alarm they hasten to the deepest
part of the water, and dive immediately to the bottom; as they do this
they make a great noise by beating the water with their tails, on
purpose to put the whole fraternity on their guard.

They take them with snares in the following manner: though the beavers
usually lay up a sufficient store of provision to serve for their
subsistence during the winter, they make from time to time excursions to
the neighbouring woods to procure further supplies of food. The hunters
having found out their haunts, place a trap in their way, baited with
small pieces of bark, or young shoots of trees, which the beaver has no
sooner laid hold of, than a large log of wood falls upon him, and breaks
his back; his enemies, who are upon the watch, soon appear, and
instantly dispatch the helpless animal.

At other times, when the ice on the rivers and lakes is about half a
foot thick, they make an opening through it with their hatchets, to
which the beavers will soon hasten, on being disturbed at their houses,
for a supply of fresh air. As their breath occasions a considerable
motion in the waters, the hunter has sufficient notice of their
approach, and methods are easily taken for knocking them on the head the
moment they appear above the surface.

When the houses of the beavers happen to be near a rivulet, they are
more easily destroyed: the hunters then cut the ice, and spreading a net
under it, break down the cabins of the beavers, who never fail to make
towards the deepest part, where they are entangled and taken. But they
must not be suffered to remain there long, as they would soon extricate
themselves with their teeth, which are well known to be excessively
sharp and strong.

The Indians take great care to hinder their dogs from touching the bones
of the beavers. The reasons they give for these precautions, are, first
that the bones are so excessively hard, that they spoil the teeth of the
dogs; and, secondly, that they are apprehensive they shall so exasperate
the spirits of the beavers by this permission, as to render the next
hunting season unsuccessful.

The skins of these animals the hunters exchange with the Europeans for
necessaries, and as they are more valued by the latter than any other
kind of furs, they pay the greatest attention to this species of
hunting.

When the Indians destroy buffalos, elks, deer, &c. they generally divide
the flesh of such as they have taken among the tribe to which they
belong. But in hunting the beaver a few families usually unite and
divide the spoil between them. Indeed, in the first instance they
generally pay some attention in the division to their own families; but
no jealousies or murmurings are ever known to arise on account of any
apparent partiality.

Among the Naudowessies, if a person shoots a deer, buffalo, &c. and it
runs to a considerable distance before it drops, where a person
belonging to another tribe, being nearer, first sticks a knife into it,
the game is considered as the property of the latter, notwithstanding it
had been mortally wounded by the former. Though this custom appears to
be arbitrary and unjust, yet that people cheerfully submit to it. This
decision is, however, very different from that practised by the Indians
on the back of the colonies, where the first person that hits it is
entitled to the best share.




                              CHAPTER IX.

                 _Of their Manner of making_ WAR, _&c._


THE Indians begin to bear arms at the age of fifteen, and lay them aside
when they arrive at the age of sixty. Some nations to the southward, I
have been informed, do not continue their military exercises after they
are fifty.

In every band or nation there is a select number who are stiled the
Warriors, and who are always ready to act either offensively or
defensively, as occasion requires. These are well armed, bearing the
weapons commonly in use among them, which vary according to the
situation of their countries. Such as have an intercourse with the
Europeans make use of tomahawks, knives, and fire-arms; but those whose
dwellings are situated to the westward of the Mississippi, and who have
not an opportunity of purchasing these kinds of weapons, use bows and
arrows, and also the Cassé Tête or War-club.

The Indians that inhabit still farther to the westward, a country which
extends to the South Sea, use in fight a warlike instrument that is very
uncommon. Having great plenty of horses, they always attack their
enemies on horseback, and encumber themselves with no other weapon, than
a stone of a middling size, curiously wrought, which they fasten by a
string, about a yard and half long, to their right arms, a little above
the elbow. These stones they conveniently carry in their hands till they
reach their enemies, and then swinging them with great dexterity, as
they ride full speed, never fail of doing execution. The country which
these tribes possess, abounding with large extensive plains, those who
attack them seldom return; as the swiftness of the horses on which they
are mounted, enables them to overtake even the fleetest of their
invaders.

The Naudowessies, who had been at war with this people, informed me,
that unless they found morasses or thickets to which they could retire,
they were sure of being cut off: to prevent this they always took care
whenever they made an onset, to do it near such retreats as were
impassable for cavalry, they then having a great advantage over their
enemies, whose weapons would not there reach them.

Some nations make use of a javelin pointed with bone worked into
different forms; but their Indian weapons in general are bows and
arrows, and the short club already mentioned. The latter is made of a
very hard wood, and the head of it fashioned round like a ball, about
three inches and a half diameter; in this rotund part is fixed an edge
resembling that of a tomahawk, either of steel or flint, whichever they
can procure; similar to that represented in Plate N^o IV.

The dagger placed near it in the same plate, is peculiar to the
Naudowessie nation, and of ancient construction, but they can give no
account how long it has been in use among them. It was originally made
of flint or bone, but since they have had communication with the
European traders, they have formed it of steel. The length of it is
about ten inches, and that part close to the handle nearly three inches
broad. Its edges are keen, and it gradually tapers towards a point. They
wear it in a sheath made of deer’s leather, neatly ornamented with
porcupine quills; and it is usually hung by a string, decorated in the
same manner, which reaches as low only as the breast. This curious
weapon is worn by a few of the principal chiefs alone, and considered
both as an useful instrument, and an ornamental badge of superiority.

[Illustration:

  Pl. 4.

  A Pipe of Peace.

  A Naudowessie Dagger.
  Formerly made of Stone.

  A War Club or Cassa Tate.
  The Ancient Tomahawk.
]

I observed among the Naudowessies a few targets or shields made of raw
buffalo hides, and in the form of those used by the ancients. But as the
number of these was small, and I could gain no intelligence of the æra
in which they first were introduced among them, I suppose those I saw
had descended from father to son for many generations.

The reasons the Indians give for making war against one another, are
much the same as those urged by more civilized nations for disturbing
the tranquillity of their neighbours. The pleas of the former are
however in general more rational and just, than such as are brought by
Europeans in vindication of their proceedings.

The extension of empire is seldom a motive with these people to invade,
and to commit depredations on the territories of those who happen to
dwell near them. To secure the rights of hunting within particular
limits, to maintain the liberty of passing through their accustomed
tracks, and to guard those lands which they consider from a long tenure
as their own, against any infringement, are the general causes of those
dissensions that so often break out between the Indian nations, and
which are carried on with so much animosity. Though strangers to the
idea of separate property, yet the most uncultivated among them are well
acquainted with the rights of their community to the domains they
possess, and oppose with vigour every encroachment on them.

Notwithstanding it is generally supposed that from their territories
being so extensive, the boundaries of them cannot be ascertained, yet I
am well assured that the limits of each nation in the interior parts are
laid down in their rude plans with great precision. By theirs, as I have
before observed, was I enabled to regulate my own; and after the most
exact observations and enquiries found very few instances in which they
erred.

But interest is not either the most frequent or most powerful incentive
to their making war on each other. The passion of revenge, which is the
distinguishing characteristic of these people, is the most general
motive. Injuries are felt by them with exquisite sensibility, and
vengeance pursued with unremitted ardour. To this may be added, that
natural excitation which every Indian becomes sensible of as soon as he
approaches the age of manhood to give proofs of his valour and prowess.

As they are early possessed with a notion that war ought to be the chief
business of their lives, that there is nothing more desirous than the
reputation of being a great warrior, and that the scalps of their
enemies or a number of prisoners are alone to be esteemed valuable, it
is not to be wondered at that the younger Indians are continually
restless and uneasy if their ardour is repressed, and they are kept in a
state of inactivity. Either of these propensities, the desire of
revenge, or the gratification of an impulse that by degrees becomes
habitual to them, is sufficient, frequently, to induce them to commit
hostilities on some of the neighbouring nations.

When the chiefs find any occasion for making war, they endeavour to
arouse these habitudes, and by that means soon excite their warriors to
take arms. To this purpose they make use of their martial eloquence
nearly in the following words, which never fails of proving effectual:
“The bones of our deceased countrymen lie uncovered, they call out to us
to revenge their wrongs, and we must satisfy their request. Their
spirits cry out against us, they must be appeased. The genii, who are
the guardians of our honour, inspire us with a resolution to seek the
enemies of our murdered brothers. Let us go and devour those by whom
they were slain. Sit therefore no longer inactive, give way to the
impulse of your natural valour, anoint your hair, paint your faces, fill
your quivers, cause the forests to resound with your songs, console the
spirits of the dead, and tell them they shall be revenged.”

Animated by these exhortations the warriors snatch their arms in a
transport of fury, sing the song of war, and burn with impatience to
imbrue their hands in the blood of their enemies.

Sometimes private chiefs assemble small parties, and make excursions
against those with whom they are at war, or such as have injured them. A
single warrior, prompted by revenge or a desire to show his prowess,
will march unattended for several hundred miles, to surprize and cut off
a straggling party.

These irregular sallies, however, are not always approved of by the
elder chiefs, though they are often obliged to connive at them; as in
the instance before given of the Naudowessie and Chipéway nations.

But when a war is national, and undertaken by the community, their
deliberations are formal and slow. The elders assemble in council, to
which all the head warriors and young men are admitted, where they
deliver their opinions in solemn speeches, weighing with maturity the
nature of the enterprize they are about to engage in, and balancing with
great sagacity the advantages or inconveniences that will arise from it.

Their priests are also consulted on the subject, and even, sometimes,
the advice of the most intelligent of their women is asked.

If the determination be for war, they prepare for it with much ceremony.

The chief warrior of a nation does not on all occasions head the war
party himself, he frequently deputes a warrior of whose valour and
prudence he has a good opinion. The person thus fixed on being first
bedawbed with black, observes a fast of several days, during which he
invokes the Great Spirit, or deprecates the anger of the evil ones,
holding whilst it lasts no converse with any of his tribe.

He is particularly careful at the same time to observe his dreams, for
on these do they suppose their success will in a great measure depend;
and from the firm persuasion every Indian actuated by his own
presumptuous thoughts is impressed with, that he shall march forth to
certain victory, these are generally favourable to his wishes.

After he has fasted as long as custom prescribes, he assembles the
warriors, and holding a belt of wampum in his hand thus addresses them:

“Brothers! by the inspiration of the Great Spirit I now speak unto you,
and by him am I prompted to carry into execution the intentions which I
am about to disclose to you. The blood of our deceased brothers is not
yet wiped away; their bodies are not yet covered, and I am going to
perform this duty to them.”

Having then made known to them all the motives that induce him to take
up arms against the nation with whom they are to engage, he thus
proceeds: “I have therefore resolved to march through the war-path to
surprize them. We will eat their flesh and drink their blood; we will
take scalps, and make prisoners; and should we perish in this glorious
enterprize, we shall not be for ever hid in the dust, for this belt
shall be a recompence to him who buries the dead.” Having said this, he
lays the belt on the ground, and he who takes it up declares himself his
lieutenant, and is considered as the second in command; this, however,
is only done by some distinguished warrior who has a right, by the
number of his scalps, to the post.

Though the Indians thus assert that they will eat the flesh and drink
the blood of their enemies, the threat is only to be considered as a
figurative expression. Notwithstanding they sometimes devour the hearts
of those they slay, and drink their blood, by way of bravado, or to
gratify in a more complete manner their revenge, yet they are not
naturally anthropophagi, nor ever feed on the flesh of men.

The chief is now washed from his sable covering, anointed with bears
fat, and painted, with their red paint, in such figures as will make him
appear most terrible to his enemies. He then sings the war song, and
enumerates his warlike actions. Having done this he fixes his eyes on
the sun, and pays his adorations to the Great Spirit, in which he is
accompanied by all the warriors.

This ceremony is followed with dances, such as I have before described;
and the whole concludes with a feast which usually consists of dogs
flesh.

This feast is held in the hut or tent of the chief warrior, to which all
those who intend to accompany him in his expedition send their dishes to
be filled; and during the feast, notwithstanding he has fasted so long,
he sits composedly with his pipe in his mouth, and recounts the valorous
deeds of his family.

As the hopes of having their wounds, should they receive any, properly
treated, and expeditiously cured, must be some additional inducement to
the warriors to expose themselves more freely to danger, the priests,
who are also their doctors, prepare such medicines as will prove
efficacious. With great ceremony they collect various roots and plants,
and pretend that they impart to them the power of healing.

Notwithstanding this superstitious method of proceeding, it is very
certain that they have acquired a knowledge of many plants and herbs
that are of a medicinal quality, and which they know how to use with
great skill.

From the time the resolution of engaging in a war is taken, to the
departure of the warriors, the nights are spent in festivity, and their
days in making the needful preparations.

If it is thought necessary by the nation going to war, to solicit the
alliance of any neighbouring tribe, they fix upon one of their chiefs
who speaks the language of that people well, and who is a good orator,
and send to them by him a belt of wampum, on which is specified the
purport of the embassy in figures that every nation is well acquainted
with. At the same time he carries with him a hatchet painted red.

As soon as he reaches the camp or village to which he is destined, he
acquaints the chief of the tribe with the general tenor of his
commission, who immediately assembles a council, to which the ambassador
is invited. There having laid the hatchet on the ground he holds the
belt in his hand, and enters more minutely into the occasion of his
embassy. In his speech he invites them to take up the hatchet, and as
soon as he has finished speaking delivers the belt.

If his hearers are inclined to become auxiliaries to his nation, a chief
steps forward and takes up the hatchet, and they immediately espouse
with spirit the cause they have thus engaged to support. But if on this
application neither the belt or hatchet are accepted, the emissary
concludes that the people whose assistance he solicits have already
entered into an alliance with the foes of his nation, and returns with
speed to inform his countrymen of his ill success.

The manner in which the Indians declare war against each other, is by
sending a slave with a hatchet, the handle of which is painted red, to
the nation which they intend to break with; and the messenger,
notwithstanding the danger to which he is exposed from the sudden fury
of those whom he thus sets at defiance, executes his commission with
great fidelity.

Sometimes this token of defiance has such an instantaneous effect on
those to whom it is presented, that in the first transports of their
fury a small party will issue forth, without waiting for the permission
of the elder chiefs, and slaying the first of the offending nation they
meet, cut open the body and stick a hatchet of the same kind as that
they have just received, into the heart of their slaughtered foe. Among
the more remote tribes this is done with an arrow or spear, the end of
which is painted red. And the more to exasperate, they dismember the
body, to show that they esteem them not as men but as old women.

The Indians seldom take the field in large bodies, as such numbers would
require a greater degree of industry to provide for their subsistence,
during their tedious marches through dreary forests, or long voyages
over lakes and rivers, than they would care to bestow.

Their armies are never encumbered with baggage or military stores. Each
warrior, besides his weapons, carries with him only a mat, and whilst at
a distance from the frontiers of the enemy supports himself with the
game he kills or the fish he catches.

When they pass through a country where they have no apprehensions of
meeting with an enemy, they use very little precaution: sometimes there
are scarcely a dozen warriors left together, the rest being dispersed in
pursuit of their game; but though they should have roved to a very
considerable distance from the war-path, they are sure to arrive at the
place of rendezvous by the hour appointed.

They always pitch their tents long before sun-set; and being naturally
presumptuous take very little care to guard against a surprize. They
place great confidence in their Manitous, or houshold gods, which they
always carry with them; and being persuaded that they take upon them the
office of centinels, they sleep very securely under their protection.

These Manitous, as they are called by some nations, but which are termed
Wakons, that is, spirits, by the Naudowessies, are nothing more than the
otter and martins skins I have already described, for which, however,
they have a great veneration.

After they have entered the enemies country, no people can be more
cautious and circumspect; fires are no longer lighted, no more shouting
is heard, nor the game any longer pursued. They are not even permitted
to speak; but must convey whatever they have to impart to each other by
signs and motions.

They now proceed wholly by stratagem and ambuscade. Having discovered
their enemies, they send to reconnoitre them; and a council is
immediately held, during which they speak only in whispers, to consider
of the intelligence imparted by those who were sent out.

The attack is generally made just before day-break, at which period they
suppose their foes to be in the soundest sleep. Throughout the whole of
the preceding night they will lie flat upon their faces, without
stirring; and make their approaches in the same posture, creeping upon
their hands and feet till they are got within bow-shot of those they
have destined to destruction. On a signal given by the chief warrior, to
which the whole body makes answer by the most hideous yells, they all
start up, and discharging their arrows in the same instant, without
giving their adversaries time to recover from the confusion into which
they are thrown, pour in upon them with their war-clubs or tomahawks.

The Indians think there is little glory to be acquired from attacking
their enemies openly in the field; their greatest pride is to surprize
and destroy. They seldom engage without a manifest appearance of
advantage. If they find the enemy on their guard, too strongly
entrenched, or superior in numbers, they retire, provided there is an
opportunity of doing so. And they esteem it the greatest qualification
of a chief warrior, to be able to manage an attack, so as to destroy as
many of the enemy as possible, at the expence of a few men.

Sometimes they secure themselves behind trees, hillocks, or stones, and
having given one or two rounds retire before they are discovered.
Europeans, who are unacquainted with this method of fighting too often
find to their cost the destructive efficacy of it.

General Braddock was one of this unhappy number. Marching in the year
1755, to attack Fort Du Quesne, he was intercepted by a party of French
and confederate Indians in their interest, who by this insidious method
of engaging found means to defeat his army, which consisted of about two
thousand brave and well-disciplined troops. So securely were the Indians
posted, that the English scarcely knew from whence or by whom they were
thus annoyed. During the whole of the engagement the latter had scarcely
a sight of an enemy; and were obliged to retreat without the
satisfaction of being able to take the least degree of revenge for the
havock made among them. The General paid for his temerity with his life,
and was accompanied in his fall by a great number of brave fellows;
whilst his invisible enemies had only two or three of their number
wounded.

When the Indians succeed in their silent approaches, and are able to
force the camp which they attack, a scene of horror, that exceeds
description, ensues. The savage fierceness of the conquerors, and the
desperation of the conquered, who well know what they have to expect
should they fall alive into the hands of their assailants, occasion the
most extraordinary exertions on both sides. The figure of the combatants
all besmeared with black and red paint, and covered with the blood of
the slain, their horrid yells, and ungovernable fury, are not to be
conceived by those who have never crossed the Atlantic.

I have frequently been a spectator of them, and once bore a part in a
similar scene. But what added to the horror of it was, that I had not
the consolation of being able to oppose their savage attacks. Every
circumstance of the adventure still dwells on my remembrance, and
enables me to describe with greater perspicuity the brutal fierceness of
the Indians when they have surprized or overpowered an enemy.

As a detail of the massacre at Fort William Henry in the year 1757, the
scene to which I refer, cannot appear foreign to the design of this
publication, but will serve to give my readers a just idea of the
ferocity of this people, I shall take the liberty to insert it,
apologizing at the same time for the length of the digression, and those
egotisms which the relation renders unavoidable.

General Webb, who commanded the English army in North America, which was
then encamped at Fort Edward, having intelligence that the French troops
under Mons. Montcalm were making some movements towards Fort William
Henry, he detached a corps of about fifteen hundred men, consisting of
English and Provincials, to strengthen the garrison. In this party I
went as a volunteer among the latter.

The apprehensions of the English General were not without foundation;
for the day after our arrival we saw Lake George (formerly Lake
Sacrament) to which it lies contiguous, covered with an immense number
of boats; and in a few hours we found our lines attacked by the French
General, who had just landed with eleven thousand Regulars and
Canadians, and two thousand Indians. Colonel Monro, a brave officer,
commanded in the Fort, and had no more than two thousand three hundred
men with him, our detachment included.

With these he made a gallant defence, and probably would have been able
at last to preserve the Fort, had he been properly supported, and
permitted to continue his efforts. On every summons to surrender sent by
the French General, who offered the most honourable terms, his answer
repeatedly was, That he yet found himself in a condition to repel the
most vigorous attacks his besiegers were able to make; and if he thought
his present force insufficient, he could soon be supplied with a greater
number from the adjacent army.

But the Colonel having acquainted General Webb with his situation, and
desired he would send him some fresh troops, the general dispatched a
messenger to him with a letter, wherein he informed him that it was not
in his power to assist him, and therefore gave him orders to surrender
up the Fort on the best terms he could procure. This packet fell into
the hands of the French General, who immediately sent a flag of truce,
desiring a conference with the governor.

They accordingly met, attended only by a small guard, in the centre
between the lines; when Mons. Montcalm told the Colonel, that he was
come in person to demand possession of the Fort, as it belonged to the
King his master. The Colonel replied, that he knew not how that could
be, nor should he surrender it up whilst it was in his power to defend
it.

The French General rejoined, at the same time delivering the packet into
the Colonel’s hand, “By this authority do I make the requisition.” The
brave Governor had no sooner read the contents of it, and was convinced
that such were the orders of the commander in chief, and not to be
disobeyed, than he hung his head in silence, and reluctantly entered
into a negociation.

In consideration of the gallant defence the garrison had made, they were
to be permitted to march out with all the honours of war, to be allowed
covered waggons to transport their baggage to Fort Edward, and a guard
to protect them from the fury of the savages.

The morning after the capitulation was signed, as soon as day broke, the
whole garrison, now consisting of about two thousand men, besides women
and children, were drawn up within the lines, and on the point of
marching off, when great numbers of the Indians gathered about, and
began to plunder. We were at first in hopes that this was their only
view, and suffered them to proceed without opposition. Indeed it was not
in our power to make any, had we been so inclined; for though we were
permitted to carry off our arms, yet we were not allowed a single round
of ammunition. In these hopes however we were disappointed: for
presently some of them began to attack the sick and wounded, when such
as were not able to crawl into the ranks, notwithstanding they
endeavoured to avert the fury of their enemies by their shrieks or
groans, were soon dispatched.

Here we were fully in expectation that the disturbance would have
concluded; and our little army began to move; but in a short time we saw
the front division driven back, and discovered that we were entirely
encircled by the savages. We expected every moment that the guard, which
the French, by the articles of capitulation, had agreed to allow us,
would have arrived, and put an end to our apprehensions; but none
appeared. The Indians now began to strip every one without exception of
their arms and cloaths, and those who made the least resistance felt the
weight of their tomahawks.

I happened to be in the rear division, but it was not long before I
shared the fate of my companions. Three or four of the savages laid hold
of me, and whilst some held their weapons over my head, the others soon
disrobed me of my coat, waistcoat, hat, and buckles, omitting not to
take from me what money I had in my pocket. As this was transacted close
by the passage that led from the lines on to the plain, near which a
French centinel was posted, I ran to him and claimed his protection; but
he only called me an English dog, and thrust me with violence back again
into the midst of the Indians.

I now endeavoured to join a body of our troops that were crowded
together at some distance; but innumerable were the blows that were made
at me with different weapons as I passed on; luckily however the savages
were so close together, that they could not strike at me without
endangering each other. Notwithstanding which one of them found means to
make a thrust at me with a spear, which grazed my side, and from another
I received a wound, with the same kind of weapon, in my ancle. At length
I gained the spot where my countrymen stood, and forced myself into the
midst of them. But before I got thus far out of the hands of the
Indians, the collar and wristbands of my shirt were all that remained of
it, and my flesh was scratched and torn in many places by their savage
gripes.

By this time the war-hoop was given, and the Indians began to murder
those that were nearest to them without distinction. It is not in the
power of words to give any tolerable idea of the horrid scene that now
ensued; men, women, and children were dispatched in the most wanton and
cruel manner, and immediately scalped. Many of these savages drank the
blood of their victims, as it flowed warm from the fatal wound.

We now perceived, though too late to avail us, that we were to expect no
relief from the French; and that, contrary to the agreement they had so
lately signed to allow us a sufficient force to protect us from these
insults, they tacitly permitted them; for I could plainly perceive the
French officers walking about at some distance, discoursing together
with apparent unconcern. For the honour of human nature I would hope
that this flagrant breach of every sacred law, proceeded rather from the
savage disposition of the Indians, which I acknowledge it is sometimes
almost impossible to controul, and which might now unexpectedly have
arrived to a pitch not easily to be restrained, than to any premeditated
design in the French commander. An unprejudiced observer would, however,
be apt to conclude, that a body of ten thousand christian troops, most
christian troops, had it in their power to prevent the massacre from
becoming so general. But whatever was the cause from which it arose, the
consequences of it were dreadful, and not to be paralleled in modern
history.

As the circle in which I stood inclosed by this time was much thinned,
and death seemed to be approaching with hasty strides, it was proposed
by some of the most resolute to make one vigorous effort, and endeavour
to force our way through the savages, the only probable method of
preserving our lives that now remained. This, however desperate, was
resolved on, and about twenty of us sprung at once into the midst of
them.

In a moment we were all separated, and what was the fate of my
companions I could not learn till some months after, when I found that
only six or seven of them effected their design. Intent only on my own
hazardous situation, I endeavoured to make my way through my savage
enemies in the best manner possible. And I have often been astonished
since, when I have recollected with what composure I took, as I did,
every necessary step for my preservation. Some I overturned, being at
that time young and athletic, and others I passed by, dextrously
avoiding their weapons; till at last two very stout chiefs, of the most
savage tribes, as I could distinguish by their dress, whose strength I
could not resist, laid hold of me by each arm, and began to force me
through the crowd.

I now resigned myself to my fate, not doubting but that they intended to
dispatch me, and then to satiate their vengeance with my blood, as I
found they were hurrying me towards a retired swamp that lay at some
distance. But before we had got many yards, an English gentleman of some
distinction, as I could discover by his breeches, the only covering he
had on, which were of fine scarlet velvet, rushed close by us. One of
the Indians instantly relinquished his hold, and springing on this new
object, endeavoured to seize him as his prey; but the gentleman being
strong, threw him on the ground, and would probably have got away, had
not he who held my other arm, quitted me to assist his brother. I seized
the opportunity, and hastened away to join another party of English
troops that were yet unbroken, and stood in a body at some distance. But
before I had taken many steps, I hastily cast my eye towards the
gentleman, and saw the Indian’s tomahawk gash into his back, and heard
him utter his last groan; this added both to my speed and desperation.

I had left this shocking scene but a few yards, when a fine boy about
twelve years of age, that had hitherto escaped, came up to me, and
begged that I would let him lay hold of me, so that he might stand some
chance of getting out of the hands of the savages. I told him that I
would give him every assistance in my power, and to this purpose bid him
lay hold; but in a few moments he was torn from my side, and by his
shrieks I judge was soon demolished. I could not help forgetting my own
cares for a minute, to lament the fate of so young a sufferer; but it
was utterly impossible for me to take any methods to prevent it.

I now got once more into the midst of friends, but we were unable to
afford each other any succour. As this was the division that had
advanced the furthest from the fort, I thought there might be a
possibility (though but a very bare one) of my forcing my way through
the outer ranks of the Indians, and getting to a neighbouring wood,
which I perceived at some distance. I was still encouraged to hope by
the almost miraculous preservation I had already experienced.

Nor were my hopes vain, or the efforts I made ineffectual. Suffice it to
say that I reached the wood; but by the time I had penetrated a little
way into it, my breath was so exhausted that I threw myself into a
brake, and lay for some minutes apparently at the last gasp. At length I
recovered the power of respiration; but my apprehensions returned with
all their former force, when I saw several savages pass by, probably in
pursuit of me, at no very great distance. In this situation I knew not
whether it was better to proceed, or endeavour to conceal myself where I
lay, till night came on; fearing, however, that they would return the
same way, I thought it most prudent to get farther from the dreadful
scene of my past distresses. Accordingly, striking into another part of
the wood, I hastened on as fast as the briars and the loss of one of my
shoes would permit me; and after a slow progress of some hours, gained a
hill that overlooked the plain which I had just left, from whence I
could discern that the bloody storm still raged with unabated fury.

But not to tire my readers, I shall only add, that after passing three
days without subsistence, and enduring the severity of the cold dews for
three nights, I at length reached Fort Edward; where with proper care my
body soon recovered its wonted strength, and my mind, as far as the
recollection of the late melancholy events would permit, its usual
composure.

It was computed that fifteen hundred persons were killed or made
prisoners by these savages during this fatal day. Many of the latter
were carried off by them and never returned. A few, through favourable
accidents, found their way back to their native country, after having
experienced a long and severe captivity.

The brave Colonel Monro had hastened away, soon after the confusion
began, to the French camp to endeavour to procure the guard agreed by
the stipulation; but his application proving ineffectual, he remained
there till General Webb sent a party of troops to demand and protect him
back to Fort Edward. But these unhappy occurrences, which would probably
have been prevented, had he been left to pursue his own plans, together
with the loss of so many brave fellows, murdered in cold blood, to whose
valour he had been so lately a witness, made such an impression on his
mind, that he did not long survive. He died in about three months of a
broken heart, and with truth might it be said, that he was an honour to
his country.

I mean not to point out the following circumstance as the immediate
judgment of heaven, and intended as an atonement for this slaughter; but
I cannot omit that very few of those different tribes of Indians that
shared in it ever lived to return home. The small pox, by means of their
communication with the Europeans, found its way among them, and made an
equal havock to what they themselves had done. The methods they pursued
on the first attack of that malignant disorder, to abate the fever
attending it, rendered it fatal. Whilst their blood was in a state of
fermentation, and nature was striving to throw out the peccant matter,
they checked her operations by plunging into the water: the consequence
was, that they died by hundreds. The few that survived were transformed
by it into hideous objects, and bore with them to the grave deep
indented marks of this much-dreaded disease.

Monsieur Montcalm fell soon after on the plains of Quebec.

That the unprovoked cruelty of this commander was not approved of by the
generality of his countrymen, I have since been convinced of by many
proofs. One only however, which I received from a person who was witness
to it, shall I at present give. A Canadian merchant, of some
consideration, having heard of the surrender of the English Fort,
celebrated the fortunate event with great rejoicings and hospitality,
according to the custom of that country; but no sooner did the news of
the massacre which ensued reach his ears, than he put an immediate stop
to the festivity, and exclaimed in the severest terms against the
inhuman permission; declaring at the same time that those who had
connived at it, had thereby drawn down on that part of their king’s
dominions the vengeance of heaven. To this he added, that he much feared
the total loss of them would deservedly be the consequence. How truly
this prediction has been verified we all know.

But to return—Though the Indians are negligent in guarding against
surprizes, they are alert and dextrous in surprizing their enemies. To
their caution and perseverance in stealing on the party they design to
attack, they add that admirable talent, or rather instinctive
qualification, I have already described, of tracing out those they are
in pursuit of. On the smoothest grass, on the hardest earth, and even on
the very stones, will they discover the traces of an enemy, and by the
shape of the footsteps, and the distance between the prints, distinguish
not only whether it is a man or woman who has passed that way, but even
the nation to which they belong. However incredible this might appear,
yet, from the many proofs I received whilst among them of their amazing
sagacity in this point, I see no reason to discredit even these
extraordinary exertions of it.

When they have overcome an enemy, and victory is no longer doubtful, the
conquerors first dispatch all such as they think they shall not be able
to carry off without great trouble, and then endeavour to take as many
prisoners as possible; after this they return to scalp those who are
either dead, or too much wounded to be taken with them.

At this business they are exceedingly expert. They seize the head of the
disabled or dead enemy, and placing one of their feet on the neck, twist
their left hand in the hair; by this means, having extended the skin
that covers the top of the head, they draw out their scalping knives,
which are always kept in good order for this cruel purpose, and with a
few dextrous strokes take off the part that is termed the scalp. They
are so expeditious in doing this, that the whole time required scarcely
exceeds a minute. These they preserve as monuments of their prowess, and
at the same time as proofs of the vengeance they have inflicted on their
enemies.

If two Indians seize in the same instant a prisoner, and seem to have an
equal claim, the contest between them is soon decided; for to put a
speedy end to any dispute that might arise, the person that is
apprehensive he shall lose his expected reward, immediately has recourse
to his tomahawk or war-club, and knocks on the head the unhappy cause of
their contention.

Having completed their purposes, and made as much havock as possible,
they immediately retire towards their own country, with the spoil they
have acquired, for fear of being pursued.

Should this be the case, they make use of many stratagems to elude the
searches of their pursuers. They sometimes scatter leaves, sand, or dust
over the prints of their feet; sometimes tread in each others footsteps;
and sometimes lift their feet so high, and tread so lightly, as not to
make any impression on the ground. But if they find all these
precautions unavailing, and that they are near being overtaken, they
first dispatch and scalp their prisoners, and then dividing, each
endeavours to regain his native country by a different route. This
prevents all farther pursuit; for their pursuers now despairing, either
of gratifying their revenge, or of releasing those of their friends who
were made captives, return home.

If the successful party is so lucky as to make good their retreat
unmolested, they hasten with the greatest expedition to reach a country
where they may be perfectly secure; and that their wounded companions
may not <DW44> their flight, they carry them by turns in litters, or if
it is in the winter season draw them on sledges.

Their litters are made in a rude manner of the branches of trees. Their
sledges consist of two small thin boards about a foot wide when joined,
and near six feet long. The fore part is turned up, and the sides are
bordered with small bands. The Indians draw these carriages with great
ease, be they ever so much loaded, by means of a string which passes
round the breast. This collar is called a Metump, and is in use
throughout America, both in the settlements and the internal parts.
Those used in the latter are made of leather, and very curiously
wrought.

The prisoners during their march are guarded with the greatest care.
During the day, if the journey is over land, they are always held by
some of the victorious party; if by water, they are fastened to the
canoe. In the night-time they are stretched along the ground quite
naked, with their legs, arms, and neck fastened to hooks fixed in the
ground. Besides this, cords are tied to their arms or legs, which are
held by an Indian, who instantly awakes at the least motion of them.

Notwithstanding such precautions are usually taken by the Indians, it is
recorded in the annals of New England, that one of the weaker sex,
almost alone, and unassisted, found means to elude the vigilance of a
party of warriors, and not only to make her escape from them, but to
revenge the cause of her countrymen.

Some years ago, a small band of Canadian Indians, consisting of ten
warriors attended by two of their wives, made an irruption into the back
settlements of New England. They lurked for some time in the vicinity of
one of the most exterior towns, and at length, after having killed and
scalped several people, found means to take prisoner a woman who had
with her a son of about twelve years of age. Being satisfied with the
execution they had done, they retreated towards their native country,
which lay at three hundred miles distance, and carried off with them
their two captives.

The second night of their retreat, the woman, whose name, if I mistake
not, was Rowe, formed a resolution worthy of the most intrepid hero. She
thought she should be able to get from her hands the manacles by which
they were confined, and determined if she did so to make a desperate
effort for the recovery of her freedom. To this purpose, when she
concluded that her conquerors were in their soundest sleep, she strove
to slip the cords from her hands. In this she succeeded; and cautioning
her son, whom they had suffered to go unbound, in a whisper, against
being surprized at what she was about to do, she removed to a distance
with great wariness the defensive weapons of the Indians, which lay by
their sides.

Having done this, she put one of the tomahawks into the hands of the
boy, bidding him to follow her example; and taking another herself, fell
upon the sleeping Indians, several of whom she instantly dispatched. But
her attempt was nearly frustrated by the imbecility of her son, who
wanting both strength and resolution, made a feeble stroke at one of
them, which only served to awaken him; she however sprung at the rising
warrior, and before he could recover his arms, made him sink under the
weight of her tomahawk; and this she alternately did to all the rest,
except one of the women, who awoke in time, and made her escape.

The heroine then took off the scalps of her vanquished enemies, and
seizing also those they were carrying away with them as proofs of their
success, she returned in triumph to the town from whence she had so
lately been dragged, to the great astonishment of her neighbours, who
could scarcely credit their senses, or the testimonies she bore of her
Amazonian intrepidity.

During their march they oblige their prisoners to sing their death-song,
which generally consists of these or similar sentences: “I am going to
die, I am about to suffer; but I will bear the severest tortures my
enemies can inflict with becoming fortitude. I will die like a brave
man, and I shall then go to join the chiefs that have suffered on the
same account.” These songs are continued with necessary intervals, until
they reach the village or camp to which they are going.

When the warriors are arrived within hearing, they set up different
cries, which communicates to their friends a general history of the
success of the expedition. The number of the death-cries they give,
declares how many of their own party are lost; the number of war-hoops,
the number of prisoners they have taken.

It is difficult to describe these cries, but the best idea I can convey
of them is, that the former consists of the sound Whoo, Whoo, Whoop,
which is continued in a long shrill tone, nearly till the breath is
exhausted, and then broken off with a sudden elevation of the voice. The
latter of a loud cry, of much the same kind, which is modulated into
notes by the hand being placed before the mouth. Both of them might be
heard to a very considerable distance.

Whilst these are uttering, the persons to whom they are designed to
convey the intelligence, continue motionless and all attention. When
this ceremony is performed, the whole village issue out to learn the
particulars of the relation they have just heard in general terms, and
according as the news prove mournful or the contrary, they answer by so
many acclamations or cries of lamentation.

Being by this time arrived at the village or camp, the women and
children arm themselves with sticks and bludgeons, and form themselves
into two ranks, through which the prisoners are obliged to pass. The
treatment they undergo before they reach the extremity of the line, is
very severe. Sometimes they are so beaten over the head and face, as to
have scarcely any remains of life; and happy would it be for them if by
this usage an end was put to their wretched beings. But their tormentors
take care that none of the blows they give prove mortal, as they wish to
reserve the miserable sufferers for more severe inflictions.

After having undergone this introductory discipline, they are bound hand
and foot, whilst the chiefs hold a council in which their fate is
determined. Those who are decreed to be put to death by the usual
torments, are delivered to the chief of the warriors; such as are to be
spared, are given into the hands of the chief of the nation: so that in
a short time all the prisoners may be assured of their fate, as the
sentence now pronounced is irrevocable. The former they term being
consigned to the house of death, the latter to the house of grace.

Such captives as are pretty far advanced in life, and have acquired
great honour by their warlike deeds, always atone for the blood they
have spilt by the tortures of fire. Their success in war is readily
known by the blue marks upon their breasts and arms, which are as
legible to the Indians as letters are to Europeans.

The manner in which these hieroglyphicks are made, is by breaking the
skin with the teeth of fish, or sharpened flints, dipped in a kind of
ink made of the foot of pitch pine. Like those of the ancient Picts of
Britain these are esteemed ornamental; and at the same time they serve
as registers of the heroic actions of the warrior, who thus bears about
him indelible marks of his valour.

The prisoners destined to death are soon led to the place of execution,
which is generally in the centre of the camp or village; where, being
stript, and every part of their bodies blackened, the skin of a crow or
raven is fixed on their heads. They are then bound to a stake, with
<DW19>s heaped around them, and obliged for the last time to sing their
death-song.

The warriors, for such it is only who commonly suffer this punishment,
now perform in a more prolix manner this sad solemnity. They recount
with an audible voice all the brave actions they have performed, and
pride themselves in the number of enemies they have killed. In this
rehearsal they spare not even their tormentors, but strive by every
provoking tale they can invent to irritate and insult them. Sometimes
this has the desired effect, and the sufferers are dispatched sooner
than they otherwise would have been.

There are many other methods which the Indians make use of to put their
prisoners to death, but these are only occasional; that of burning is
most generally used.

Whilst I was at the chief town of the Ottagaumies, an Illinois Indian
was brought in, who had been made prisoner by one of their war parties.
I had then an opportunity of seeing the customary cruelties inflicted by
these people on their captives, through the minutest part of their
process. After the previous steps necessary to his condemnation, he was
carried, early in the morning, to a little distance from the town, where
he was bound to a tree.

This being done, all the boys, who amounted to a great number, as the
place was populous, were permitted to amuse themselves with shooting
their arrows at the unhappy victim. As they were none of them more than
twelve years old, and were placed at a considerable distance, they had
not strength to penetrate to the vital parts, so that the poor wretch
stood pierced with arrows, and suffering the consequent agonies, for
more than two days.

During this time he sung his warlike exploits. He recapitulated every
stratagem he had made use of to surprize his enemies: he boasted of the
quantity of scalps he possessed, and enumerated the prisoners he had
taken. He then described the different barbarous methods by which he had
put the latter to death, and seemed even then to receive inconceivable
pleasure from the recital of the horrid tale.

But he dwelt more particularly on the cruelties he had practised on such
of the kindred of his present tormentors as had fallen into his hands;
endeavouring by these aggravated insults to induce them to increase his
tortures, that he might be able to give greater proofs of fortitude.
Even in the last struggles of life, when he was no longer able to vent
in words the indignant provocation his tongue would have uttered, a
smile of mingled scorn and triumph sat on his countenance.

This method of tormenting their enemies is considered by the Indians as
productive of more than one beneficial consequence. It satiates, in a
greater degree, that diabolical lust of revenge, which is the
predominant passion in the breast of every individual of every tribe,
and it gives the growing warriors an early propensity to that cruelty
and thirst for blood, which is so necessary a qualification for such as
would be thoroughly skilled in their savage art of war.

I have been informed, that an Indian who was under the hands of his
tormentors, had the audacity to tell them, that they were ignorant old
women, and did not know how to put brave prisoners to death. He
acquainted them that he had heretofore taken some of their warriors, and
instead of the trivial punishments they inflicted on him, he had devised
for them the most excruciating torments: that having bound them to a
stake, he had stuck their bodies full of sharp splinters of turpentine
wood, to which he then set fire, and dancing around them enjoyed the
agonizing pangs of the flaming victims.

This bravado, which carried with it a degree of insult that even the
accustomed ear of an Indian could not listen to unmoved, threw his
tormentors off their guard, and shortened the duration of his torments;
for one of the chiefs ran to him, and ripping out his heart, stopped
with it the mouth from which had issued such provoking language.

Innumerable are the ironies that may be told of the courage and
resolution of the Indians, who happen to be made prisoners by their
adversaries. Many that I have heard are so astonishing, that they seem
to exceed the utmost limits of credibility; it is, however, certain that
these savages are possessed with many heroic qualities, and bear every
species of misfortune with a degree of fortitude which has not been
outdone by any of the ancient heroes of either Greece or Rome.

Notwithstanding these acts of severity exercised by the Indians towards
those of their own species who fall into their hands, some tribes of
them have been remarked for their moderation to such female prisoners
belonging to the English colonies as have happened to be taken by them.
Women of great beauty have frequently been carried off by them, and
during a march of three or four hundred miles through their retired
forests, have lain by their sides without receiving any insult, and
their chastity has remained inviolate. Instances have happened where
female captives, who have been pregnant at the time of their being
taken, have found the pangs of child-birth come upon them in the midst
of solitary woods, and savages their only companions; yet from these,
savages as they were, have they received every assistance their
situation would admit of, and been treated with a degree of delicacy and
humanity they little expected.

This forbearance, it must be acknowledged, does not proceed altogether
from their dispositions, but is only inherent in those who have held
some communication with the French missionaries. Without intending that
their natural enemies the English should enjoy the benefit of their
labours, these fathers have taken great pains to inculcate on the minds
of the Indians the general principles of humanity, which has diffused
itself through their manners, and has proved of public utility.

Those prisoners that are consigned to the house of grace, and these are
commonly the young men, women, and children, await the disposal of the
chiefs, who, after the execution of such as are condemned to die, hold a
council for this purpose.

A herald is sent round the village or camp, to give notice that such as
have lost any relation in the late expedition are desired to attend the
distribution which is about to take place. Those women who have lost
their sons or husbands are generally satisfied in the first place; after
these, such as have been deprived of friends of a more remote degree of
consanguinity, or who choose to adopt some of the youth.

The division being made, which is done, as in other cases, without the
least dispute, those who have received any share lead them to their
tents or huts; and having unbound them, wash and dress their wounds if
they happen to have received any; they then cloath them, and give them
the most comfortable and refreshing food their store will afford.

Whilst their new domesticks are feeding, they endeavour to administer
consolation to them; they tell them that as they are redeemed from
death, they must now be cheerful and happy; and if they serve them well,
without murmuring or repining, nothing shall be wanting to make them
such atonement for the loss of their country and friends as
circumstances will allow of.

If any men are spared, they are commonly given to the widows that have
lost their husbands by the hand of the enemy, should there be any such,
to whom, if they happen to prove agreeable, they are soon married. But
should the dame be otherwise engaged, the life of him who falls to her
lot is in great danger; especially if she fancies that her late husband
wants a slave in the country of spirits to which he is gone.

When this is the case, a number of young men take the devoted captive to
some distance, and dispatch him without any ceremony: after he has been
spared by the council, they consider him of too little consequence to be
intitled to the torments allotted to those who have been judged worthy
of them.

The women are usually distributed to the men, from whom they do not fail
of meeting with a favourable reception. The boys and girls are taken
into the families of such as have need of them, and are considered as
slaves; and it is not uncommon that they are sold in the same capacity
to the European traders who come among them.

The Indians have no idea of moderating the ravages of war, by sparing
their prisoners, and entering into a negotiation with the band from whom
they have been taken, for an exchange. All that are captivated by both
parties, are either put to death, adopted, or made slaves of. And so
particular are every nation in this respect, that if any of their tribe,
even a warrior, should be taken prisoner, and by chance be received into
the house of grace, either as an adopted person or a slave, and should
afterwards make his escape, they will by no means receive him, or
acknowledge him as one of their band.

The condition of such as are adopted differs not in any one instance
from the children of the nation to which they now belong. They assume
all the rights of those whole places they supply, and frequently make no
difficulty of going in the war-parties against their own countrymen.
Should, however, any of these by chance make their escape, and be
afterwards retaken, they are esteemed as unnatural children and
ungrateful persons, who have deserted and made war upon their parents
and benefactors, and are treated with uncommon severity.

That part of the prisoners which are considered as slaves, are generally
distributed among the chiefs; who frequently make presents of some of
them to the European governors of the out-posts, or to the
superintendants or commissaries of Indian affairs. I have been informed
that it was the Jesuits and French missionaries that first occasioned
the introduction of these unhappy captives into the settlements, and who
by so doing taught the Indians that they were valuable.

Their views indeed were laudable, as they imagined that by this method
they should not only prevent much barbarity and bloodshed, but find the
opportunities of spreading their religion among them increased. To this
purpose they encouraged the traders to purchase such slaves as they met
with.

The good effects of this mode of proceeding was not however equal to the
expectations of these pious fathers. Instead of being the means of
preventing cruelty and bloodshed, it only caused the dissensions between
the Indian nations to be carried on with a greater degree of violence,
and with unremitted ardour. The prize they fought for being no longer
revenge or fame, but the acquirement of spirituous liquors, for which
their captives were to be exchanged, and of which almost every nation is
immoderately fond, they sought for their enemies with unwonted alacrity,
and were constantly on the watch to surprize and carry them off.

It might still be said that fewer of the captives are tormented and put
to death, since these expectations of receiving so valuable a
consideration for them have been excited than there usually had been;
but it does not appear that their accustomed cruelty to the warriors
they take, is in the least abated; their natural desire of vengeance
must be gratified; they now only become more assiduous in securing a
greater number of young prisoners, whilst those who are made captive in
their defence are tormented and put to death as before.

The missionaries finding that contrary to their wishes their zeal had
only served to increase the sale of the noxious juices, applied to the
Governor of Canada in the year 1693, for a prohibition of this baneful
trade. An order was issued accordingly, but it could not put a total
stop to it; the French Couriers de Boïs were hardy enough to carry it on
clandestinely, notwithstanding the penalty annexed to a breach of the
prohibition was a considerable fine and imprisonment.

Some who were detected in the prosecution of it withdrew into the Indian
countries, where they intermarried with the natives and underwent a
voluntary banishment. These, however, being an abandoned and debauched
set, their conduct contributed very little either towards reforming the
manners of their new relations, or engaging them to entertain a
favourable opinion of the religion they professed. Thus did these
indefatigable religious men see their designs in some measure once more
frustrated.

However, the emigration was productive of an effect which turned out to
be beneficial to their nation. By the connection of these refugees with
the Iroquois, Mississuages, Hurons, Miamies, Powtowottomies, Puants,
Menomonies, Algonkins, &c. and the constant representations these
various nations received from them of the power and grandeur of the
French, to the aggrandizement of whose monarch, notwithstanding their
banishment, they still retained their habitual inclination, the Indians
became insensibly prejudiced in favour of that people, and I am
persuaded take every opportunity of shewing their attachment to them.

And this, even in despite of the disgraceful estimation they must be
held by them, since they have been driven out of Canada; for the Indians
consider every conquered people as in a state of vassalage to their
conquerors. After one nation has finally subdued another, and a
conditional submission is agreed on, it is customary for the chiefs of
the conquered, when they sit in council with their subduers, to wear
petticoats, as an acknowledgment that they are in a state of subjection,
and ought to be ranked among the women. Their partiality to the French
has however taken too deep root for time itself to eradicate it.




                               CHAPTER X.

                _Of their Manner of making_ PEACE, _&c._


THE wars that are carried on between the Indian nations are in general
hereditary, and continue from age to age with a few interruptions. If a
peace becomes necessary, the principal care of both parties is to avoid
the appearance of making the first advances.

When they treat with an enemy, relative to a suspension of hostilities,
the chief who is commissioned to undertake the negociation, if it is not
brought about by the mediation of some neighbouring band, abates nothing
of his natural haughtiness: even when the affairs of his country are in
the worst situation, he makes no concessions, but endeavours to persuade
his adversaries that it is their interest to put an end to the war.

Accidents sometimes contribute to bring about a peace between nations
that otherwise could not be prevailed on to listen to terms of
accommodation. An instance of this, which I heard of in almost every
nation I passed through, I shall relate.

About eighty years ago, the Iroquois and Chipéways, two powerful
nations, were at war with the Ottagaumies and Saukies, who were much
inferior to their adversaries both in numbers and strength. One winter
near a thousand of the former made an excursion from Lake Ontario, by
way of Toronto, towards the territories of their enemies. They coasted
Lake Huron on its east and northern borders, till they arrived at the
island of St. Joseph, which is situated in the Straights of St. Marie.
There they crossed these Straights upon the ice about fifteen miles
below the falls, and continued their route still westward. As the ground
was covered with snow, to prevent a discovery of their numbers, they
marched in a single file, treading in each others footsteps.

Four Chipéway Indians, passing that way, observed this army, and readily
guessed from the direction of their march, and the precautions they
took, both the country to which they were hastening, and their designs.

Notwithstanding the nation to which they belonged was at war with the
Ottagaumies, and in alliance with their invaders, yet from a principle
which cannot be accounted for, they took an instant resolution to
apprize the former of their danger. To this purpose they hastened away
with their usual celerity, and, taking a circuit to avoid discovery,
arrived at the hunting grounds of the Ottagaumies, before so large a
body, moving in so cautious a manner, could do. There they found a party
of about four hundred warriors, some of which were Saukies, whom they
informed of the approach of their enemies.

The chiefs immediately collected their whole force, and held a council
on the steps that were to be taken for their defence. As they were
encumbered with their families, it was impossible that they could
retreat in time; they therefore determined to chuse the most
advantageous spot, and to give the Iroquois the best reception in their
power.

Not far from the place where they then happened to be, stood two small
lakes, between which ran a narrow neck of land about a mile in length,
and only from twenty to forty yards in breadth. Concluding that the
Iroquois intended to pass through this defile, the united bands divided
their little party into two bodies of two hundred each. One of these
took post at the extremity of the pass that lay nearest to their hunting
grounds, which they immediately fortified with a breast-work formed of
palisades; whilst the other body took a compass round one of the lakes,
with a design to hem their enemies in when they had entered the defile.

Their stratagem succeeded; for no sooner had the whole of the Iroquois
entered the pass, than, being provided with wood for the purpose, they
formed a similar breast-work on the other extremity, and thus enclosed
their enemies.

The Iroquois soon perceived their situation, and immediately held a
council on the measures that were necessary to be pursued to extricate
themselves. Unluckily for them a thaw had just taken place, which had so
far dissolved the ice as to render it impassible, and yet there still
remained sufficient to prevent them from either passing over the lakes
on rafts, or from swimming across. In this dilemma it was agreed that
they should endeavour to force one of the breast-works; but they soon
found them too well defended to effect their purpose.

Notwithstanding this disappointment, with the usual composure and
unapprehensiveness of Indians, they amused themselves three or four days
in fishing. By this time the ice being quite dissolved, they made
themselves rafts, which they were enabled to do by some trees that
fortunately grew on the spot, and attempted to cross one of the lakes.

They accordingly set off before day-break; but the Ottagaumies, who had
been watchful of their motions, perceiving their design, detached one
hundred and fifty men from each of their parties, to oppose their
landing. These three hundred marched so expeditiously to the other side
of the lake, that they reached it before their opponents had gained the
shore, they being retarded by their poles sticking in the mud.

As soon as the confederates arrived, they poured in a very heavy fire,
both from their bows and musquetry, on the Iroquois, which greatly
disconcerted them; till the latter finding their situation desperate,
leaped into the water, and fought their way through their enemies. This
however they could not do without losing more than half their men.

After the Iroquois had landed, they made good their retreat, but were
obliged to leave their enemies masters of the field, and in possession
of all the furs they had taken during their winter’s hunt. Thus dearly
did they pay for an unprovoked excursion to such distance from the route
they ought to have pursued, and to which they were only impelled by a
sudden desire of cutting off some of their ancient enemies.

But had they known their strength they might have destroyed every man of
the party that opposed them; which even at the first onset was only
inconsiderable, and, when diminished by the action, totally unable to
make any stand against them.

The victorious bands rewarded the Chipéways, who had been the means of
their success, with a share of the spoils. They pressed them to take any
quantity they chose of the richest of the furs, and sent them under an
escort of fifty men, to their own country. The disinterested Chipéways,
as the Indians in general are seldom actuated by mercenary motives, for
a considerable time refused these presents, but were at length persuaded
to accept of them.

The brave and well-concerted resistance here made by the Ottagaumies and
Saukies, aided by the mediation of the Chipéways, who laying aside on
this occasion the animosity they had so long borne those people approved
of the generous conduct of their four chiefs, were together the means of
effecting a reconciliation between these nations; and in process of time
united them all in the bands of amity.

And I believe that all the Indians inhabiting that extensive country,
which lies between Quebec, the banks of the Mississippi north of the
Ouisconsin, and the settlements belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company,
are at present in a state of profound peace. When their restless
dispositions will not suffer them to remain inactive, these northern
Indians seldom commit hostilities on each other, but make excursions to
the southward, against the Cherokees, Choctahs, Chickasaws or Illinois.

Sometimes the Indians grow tired of a war which they have carried on
against some neighbouring nation for many years without much success,
and in this case they seek for mediators to begin a negotiation. These
being obtained, the treaty is thus conducted.

A number of their own chiefs, joined by those who have accepted the
friendly office, set out together for the country of their enemies; such
as are chosen for this purpose, are chiefs of the most extensive
abilities and of the greatest integrity. They bear before them the Pipe
of Peace, which I need not inform my readers is of the same nature as a
Flag of Truce among the Europeans, and is treated with the greatest
respect and veneration, even by the most barbarous nations. I never
heard of an instance wherein the bearers of this sacred badge of
friendship were ever treated disrespectfully, or its rights violated.
The Indians believe that the Great Spirit never suffers an infraction of
this kind to go unpunished.

The Pipe of Peace, which is termed by the French the Calumet, for what
reason I could never learn, is about four feet long. The bowl of it is
made of red marble, and the stem of it of a light wood, curiously
painted with, hieroglyphicks in various colours, and adorned with the
feathers of the most beautiful birds. I have endeavoured to give as
exact a representation of it as possible in #Plate N^o IV:weapons#; but
it is not in my power to convey an idea of the various tints and
pleasing ornaments of this much esteemed Indian implement.

Every nation has a different method of decorating these pipes, and they
can tell at first sight to what band it belongs. It is used as an
introduction to all treaties, and great ceremony attends the use of it
on these occasions.

The assistant or aid-du-camp of the great warrior, when the chiefs are
assembled and seated, fills it with tobacco mixed with the herbs before
mentioned, taking care at the same time that no part of it touches the
ground. When it is filled, he takes a coal that is thoroughly kindled
from a fire which is generally kept burning in the midst of the
assembly, and places it on the tobacco.

As soon as it is sufficiently lighted, he throws off the coal. He then
turns the stem of it towards the heavens, after this towards the earth,
and now holding it horizontally moves himself round till he has
completed a circle: by the first action he is supposed to present it to
the Great Spirit, whose aid is thereby supplicated; by the second, to
avert any malicious interposition of the evil spirits; and by the third
to gain the protection of the spirits inhabiting the air, the earth, and
the waters. Having thus secured the favour of those invisible agents, in
whose power they suppose it is either to forward or obstruct the issue
of their present deliberations, he presents it to the hereditary chief;
who having taken two or three whiffs, blows the smoak from his mouth
first towards heaven, and then around him upon the ground.

It is afterwards put in the same manner into the mouths of the
ambassadors or strangers, who observe the same ceremony; then to the
chief of the warriors, and to all the other chiefs in turn according to
their gradation. During this time the person who executes this
honourable office holds the pipe slightly in his hand, as if he feared
to press the sacred instrument; nor does any one presume to touch it but
with his lips.

When the chiefs who are intrusted with the commission for making peace,
approach the town or camp to which they are going, they begin to sing
and dance the songs and dances appropriated to this occasion. By this
time the adverse party are apprized of their arrival, and divesting
themselves of their wonted enmity at the sight of the Pipe of Peace,
invite them to the habitation of the Great Chief, and furnish them with
every conveniency during the negociation.

A council is then held; and when the speeches and debates are ended, if
no obstructions arise to put a stop to the treaty, the painted hatchet
is buried in the ground as a memorial that all animosities between the
contending nations have ceased, and a peace taken place. Among the ruder
bands, such as have no communication with the Europeans, a war-club
painted red is buried instead of the hatchet.

A belt of wampum is also given on this occasion, which serves as a
ratification of the peace, and records to the latest posterity, by the
hieroglyphicks into which the beads are formed, every stipulated article
in the treaty.

These belts are made of shells found on the coasts of New England and
Virginia, which are sawed out into beads of an oblong form, about a
quarter of an inch long, and round like other beads. Being strung on
leather strings, and several of them sewed neatly together with fine
sinewy threads, they then compose what is termed a belt of Wampum.

The shells are generally of two colours, some white and others violet;
but the latter are more highly esteemed than the former. They are held
in as much estimation by the Indians, as gold, silver, or precious
stones are by the Europeans.

The belts are composed of ten, twelve, or a greater number of strings,
according to the importance of the affair in agitation, or the dignity
of the person to whom it is presented. On more trifling occasions,
firings of these beads are presented by the chiefs to each other, and
frequently worn by them about their necks, as a valuable ornament.




                              CHAPTER XI.

                           _Of their_ GAMES.


AS I have before observed, the Indians are greatly addicted to gaming,
and will even stake, and lose with composure, all the valuables they are
possessed of. They amuse themselves at several sorts of games, but the
principal and most esteemed among them is that of the ball, which is not
unlike the European game of tennis.

The balls they use are rather larger than those made use of at tennis,
and are formed of a piece of deer-skin; which being moistened to render
it supple, is stuffed hard with the hair of the same creature, and sewed
with its sinews. The ball-sticks are about three feet long, at the end
of which there is fixed a kind of racket, resembling the palm of the
hand, and fashioned of thongs cut from a deer-skin. In these they catch
the ball, and throw it to a great distance, if they are not prevented by
some of the opposite party, who fly to intercept it.

This game is generally played by large companies, that sometimes consist
of more than three hundred; and it is not uncommon for different bands
to play against each other.

They begin by fixing two poles in the ground at about six hundred yards
apart, and one of these goals belong to each party of the combatants.
The ball is thrown up high in the centre of the ground, and in a direct
line between the goals; towards which each party endeavours to strike
it, and which ever side first causes it to reach their own goal, reckons
towards the game.

They are so exceeding dextrous in this manly exercise, that the ball is
usually kept flying in different directions by the force of the rackets,
without touching the ground during the whole contention; for they are
not allowed to catch it with their hands. They run with amazing velocity
in pursuit of each other, and when one is on the point of hurling it to
a great distance, an antagonist overtakes him, and by a sudden stroke
dashes down the ball.

They play with so much vehemence that they frequently wound each other,
and sometimes a bone is broken; but notwithstanding these accidents
there never appears to be any spite or wanton exertions of strength to
effect them, nor do any disputes ever happen between the parties.

There is another game also in use among them worthy of remark, and this
is the game of the Bowl or Platter. This game is played between two
persons only. Each person has six or eight little bones not unlike a
peach-stone either in size or shape, except that they are quadrangular;
two of the sides of which are  black, and the others white.
These they throw up into the air, from whence they fall into a bowl or
platter placed underneath, and made to spin round.

According as these bones present the white or black side upwards they
reckon the game: he that happens to have the greatest number turn up of
a similar colour, counts five points; and forty is the game.

The winning party keeps his place, and the loser yields his to another
who is appointed by one of the umpires; for a whole village is sometimes
concerned in the party, and at times one band plays against another.

During this play the Indians appear to be greatly agitated, and at every
decisive throw set up a hideous shout. They make a thousand contortions,
addressing themselves at the same time to the bones, and loading with
imprecations the evil spirits that assist their successful antagonists.
At this game some will lose their apparel, all the moveables of their
cabins, and sometimes even their liberty, notwithstanding there are no
people in the universe more jealous of the latter than the Indians are.




                              CHAPTER XII.

                 _Of their_ MARRIAGE CEREMONIES, _&c._


THE Indians allow of polygamy, and persons of every rank indulge
themselves in this point. The chiefs in particular have a seraglio,
which consists of an uncertain number, usually from six to twelve or
fourteen. The lower ranks are permitted to take as many as there is a
probability of their being able, with the children they may bear, to
maintain. It is not uncommon for an Indian to marry two sisters;
sometimes, if there happen to be more, the whole number; and
notwithstanding this (as it appears to civilized nations) unnatural
union, they all live in the greatest harmony.

The younger wives are submissive to the elder; and those who have no
children, do such menial offices for those who are fertile, as causes
their situation to differ but little from a state of servitude. However
they perform every injunction with the greatest cheerfulness, in hopes
of gaining thereby the affection of their husband, that they in their
turns may have the happiness of becoming mothers, and be intitled to the
respect attendant on that state.

It is not uncommon for an Indian, although he takes to himself so many
wives, to live in a state of continence with many of them for several
years. Such as are not so fortunate as to gain the favour of their
husband by their submissive and prudent behaviour, and by that means to
share in his embraces, continue in their virgin state during the whole
of their lives, except they happen to be presented by him to some
stranger chief, whose abode among them will not admit of his entering
into a more lasting connection. In this case they submit to the
injunction of their husband without murmuring, and are not displeased at
the temporary union. But if at any time it is known that they take this
liberty without first receiving his consent, they are punished in the
same manner as if they had been guilty of adultery.

This custom is more prevalent among the nations which lie in the
interior parts, than among those that are nearer the settlements, as the
manners of the latter are rendered more conformable in some points to
those of the Europeans, by the intercourse they hold with them.

The Indian nations differ but little from each other in their marriage
ceremonies, and less in the manner of their divorces. The tribes that
inhabit the borders of Canada, make use of the following custom.

When a young Indian has fixed his inclinations on one of the other sex,
he endeavours to gain her consent, and if he succeeds, it is never known
that her parents ever obstruct their union. When every preliminary is
agreed on, and the day appointed, the friends and acquaintance of both
parties assemble at the house or tent of the oldest relation of the
bridegroom, where a feast is prepared on the occasion.

The company who meet to assist at the festival are sometimes very
numerous; they dance, they sing, and enter into every other diversion
usually made use of on any of their public rejoicings. When these are
finished, all those who attended merely out of ceremony depart, and the
bridegroom and bride are left alone with three or four of the nearest
and oldest relations of either side; those of the bridegroom being men,
those of the bride, women.

Presently the bride, attended by these few friends, having withdrawn
herself for the purpose, appears at one of the doors of the house, and
is led to the bridegroom, who stands ready to receive her. Having now
taken their station on a mat placed in the centre of the room, they lay
hold of the extremities of a wand about four feet long, by which they
continue separated, whilst the old men pronounce some short harangues
suitable to the occasion.

The married couple after this make a public declaration of the love and
regard they entertain for each other, and still holding the rod between
them, dance and sing. When they have finished this part of the ceremony,
they break the rod into as many pieces as there are witnesses present,
who each take a piece, and preserve it with great care.

The bride is then re-conducted out of the door at which she entered,
where her young companions wait to attend her to her father’s house;
there the bridegroom is obliged to seek her, and the marriage is
consummated. Very often the wife remains at her father’s house till she
has a child, when she packs up her apparel, which is all the fortune she
is generally possessed of, and accompanies her husband to his
habitation.

When from any dislike a separation takes place, for they are seldom
known to quarrel, they generally give their friends a few days notice of
their intentions, and sometimes offer reasons to justify their conduct.
The witnesses who were present at the marriage, meet on the day
requested at the house of the couple that are about to separate, and
bringing with them the pieces of rod which they had received at their
nuptials, throw them into the fire in the presence of all the parties.

This is the whole of the ceremony required, and the separation is
carried on without any murmurings or ill-will between the couple or
their relations; and after a few months they are at liberty to marry
again.

When a marriage is thus dissolved, the children which have been produced
from it, are equally divided between them; and as children are esteemed
a treasure by the Indians, if the number happens to be odd, the woman is
allowed to take the better half.

Though this custom seems to encourage fickleness and frequent
separations, yet there are many of the Indians who have but one wife,
and enjoy with her a state of connubial happiness not to be exceeded in
more refined societies. There are also not a few instances of women
preserving an inviolable attachment to their husbands, except in the
cases before-mentioned, which are not considered as either a violation
of their chastity or fidelity.

Although I have said that the Indian nations differ very little from
each other in their marriage ceremonies, there are some exceptions. The
Naudowessies have a singular method of celebrating their marriages,
which seems to bear no resemblance to those made use of by any other
nation I passed through. When one of their young men has fixed on a
young woman he approves of, he discovers his passion to her parents, who
give him an invitation to come and live with them in their tent.

He accordingly accepts the offer, and by so doing engages to reside in
it for a whole year, in the character of a menial servant. During this
time he hunts, and brings all the game he kills to the family; by which
means the father has an opportunity of seeing whether he is able to
provide for the support of his daughter and the children that might be
the consequence of their union. This however is only done whilst they
are young men, and for their first wife, and not repeated like Jacob’s
servitudes.

When this period is expired, the marriage is solemnized after the custom
of the country, in the following manner: Three or four of the oldest
male relations of the bridegroom, and as many of the bride’s, accompany
the young couple from their respective tents to an open part in the
centre of the camp.

The chiefs and warriors being here assembled to receive them, a party of
the latter are drawn up in two ranks on each side of the bride and
bridegroom immediately on their arrival. The principal chief then
acquaints the whole assembly with the design of their meeting, and tells
them that the couple before them, mentioning at the same time their
names, are come to avow publicly their intentions of living together as
man and wife. He then asks the two young people alternately, whether
they desire that the union might take place. Having declared with an
audible voice that they do so, the warriors fix their arrows, and
discharge them over the heads of the married pair; this done, the chief
pronounces them man and wife.

The bridegroom then turns round, and bending his body, takes his wife on
his back, in which manner he carries her amidst the acclamations of the
spectators to his tent. This ceremony is succeeded by the most plentiful
feast the new married man can afford, and songs and dances, according to
the usual custom, conclude the festival.

Divorces happen so seldom among the Naudowessies, that I had not an
opportunity of learning how they are accomplished.

Adultery is esteemed by them a heinous crime, and punished with the
greatest rigour. The husband in these cases bites off the wife’s nose,
and a separation instantly ensues. I saw an instance wherein this mode
of punishment was inflicted, whilst I remained among them. The children,
when this happens, are distributed according to the usual custom
observed by other nations, that is, they are equally divided.

Among the Indian as well as European nations, there are many that devote
themselves to pleasure, and notwithstanding the accounts given by some
modern writers of the frigidity of an Indian constitution, become the
zealous votaries of Venus. The young warriors that are thus disposed,
seldom want opportunities for gratifying their passion; and as the mode
usually followed on these occasions is rather singular, I shall describe
it.

When one of these young debauchees imagines from the behaviour of the
person he has chosen for his mistress, that he shall not meet with any
great obstruction to his suit from her, he pursues the following plan.

It has been already observed, that the Indians acknowledge no
superiority, nor have they any ideas of subordination, except in the
necessary regulations of their war or hunting parties; they consequently
live nearly in a state of equality pursuant to the first principles of
nature. The lover therefore is not apprehensive of any check or controul
in the accomplishment of his purposes if he can find a convenient
opportunity for completing them.

As the Indians are also under no apprehension of robbers, or secret
enemies, they leave the doors of their tents or huts unfastened during
the night, as well as in the day. Two or three hours after sun-set, the
slaves or old people cover over the fire, that is generally burning in
the midst of their apartment, with ashes, and retire to their repose.

Whilst darkness thus prevails, and all is quiet, one of these sons of
pleasure, wrapped up closely in his blanket to prevent his being known,
will sometimes enter the apartment of his intended mistress. Having
first lighted at the smothered fire a small splinter of wood, which
answers the purpose of a match, he approaches the place where she
reposes, and gently pulling away the covering from her head, jogs her
till she awakes. If she then rises up, and blows out the light, he needs
no further confirmation that his company is not disagreeable; but if,
after he has discovered himself, she hides her head, and takes no notice
of him, he might rest assured that any further solicitations will prove
vain, and that it is necessary immediately for him to retire.

During his stay he conceals the light as much as possible in the hollow
of his hands, and as the tents or rooms of the Indians are usually large
and capacious, he escapes without detection. It is said that the young
women who admit their lovers on these occasions, take great care, by an
immediate application to herbs, with the potent efficacy of which they
are well acquainted, to prevent the effects of these illicit amours from
becoming visible; for should the natural consequences ensue, they must
for ever remain unmarried.

The children of the Indians are always distinguished by the name of the
mother; and if a woman marries several husbands, and has issue by each
of them, they are all called after her. The reason they give for this
is, that as their offspring are indebted to the father for their souls,
the invisible part of their essence, and to the mother for their
corporeal and apparent part, it is more rational that they should be
distinguished by the name of the latter, from whom they indubitably
derive their being, than by that of the father, to which a doubt might
sometimes arise whether they are justly intitled.

There are some ceremonies made use of by the Indians at the imposition
of the name, and it is considered by them as a matter of great
importance; but what these are I could never learn, through the secresy
observed on the occasion. I only know that it is usually given when the
children have passed the state of infancy.

Nothing can exceed the tenderness shown by them to their offspring; and
a person cannot recommend himself to their favour by any method more
certain, than by paying some attention to the younger branches of their
families. I can impute, in some measure, to the presents I made to the
children of the chiefs of the Naudowessies, the hospitable reception I
met with when among them.

There is some difficulty attends an explanation of the manner in which
the Indians distinguish themselves from each other. Besides the name of
the animal by which every nation and tribe is denominated, there are
others that are personal, and which the children receive from their
mother.

The chiefs are also distinguished by a name that has either some
reference to their abilities, or to the hieroglyphick of their families;
and these are acquired after they arrive at the age of manhood. Such as
have signalized themselves either in their war or hunting parties, or
are possessed of some eminent qualification, receive a name that serves
to perpetuate the fame of these actions, or to make their abilities
conspicuous.

Thus the great warrior of the Naudowessies was named
Ottahtongoomlishcah, that is, the Great Father of Snakes; ottah being in
English father, tongoom great, and lishcah a snake. Another chief was
called Honahpawjatin, which means a swift runner over the mountains. And
when they adopted me a chief among them, they named me Shebaygo, which
signifies a writer, or a person that is curious in making
hieroglyphicks, as they saw me often writing.




                             CHAPTER XIII.

                          _Of their_ RELIGION.


IT is very difficult to attain a perfect knowledge of the religious
principles of the Indians. Their ceremonies and doctrines have been so
often ridiculed by the Europeans, that they endeavour to conceal them;
and if, after the greatest intimacy, you desire any of them to explain
to you their system of religion, to prevent your ridicule they intermix
with it many of the tenets they have received from the French
missionaries, so that it is at last rendered an unintelligible jargon,
and not to be depended upon.

Such as I could discover among the Naudowessies, for they also were very
reserved in this point, I shall give my readers, without paying any
attention to the accounts of others. As the religion of that people from
their situation appears to be totally unadulterated with the
superstitions of the church of Rome, we shall be able to gain from their
religious customs a more perfect idea of the original tenets and
ceremonies of the Indians in general, than from those of any nations
that approach nearer to the settlements.

It is certain they acknowledge one Supreme Being or Giver of Life, who
presides over all things. The Chipéways call this being Manitou or
Kitchi-Manitou; the Naudowessies, Wakon or Tongo-Wakon, that is, the
Great Spirit; and they look up to him as the source of good, from whom
no evil can proceed. They also believe in a bad spirit, to whom they
ascribe great power, and suppose that through his means all the evils
which befall mankind are inflicted. To him therefore do they pray in
their distresses, begging that he would either avert their troubles, or
moderate them when they are no longer avoidable.

They say that the Great Spirit, who is infinitely good, neither wishes
or is able to do any mischief to mankind; but on the contrary, that he
showers down on them all the blessings they deserve; whereas the evil
spirit is continually employed in contriving how he may punish the human
race; and to do which he is not only possessed of the will, but of the
power.

They hold also that there are good spirits of a lesser degree, who have
their particular departments, in which they are constantly contributing
to the happiness of mortals. These they suppose to preside over all the
extraordinary productions of nature, such as those lakes, rivers, or
mountains that are of an uncommon magnitude; and likewise the beasts,
birds, fishes, and even vegetables or stones that exceed the rest of
their species in size or singularity. To all of these they pay some kind
of adoration. Thus when they arrive on the borders of Lake Superior, on
the banks of the Mississippi, or any other great body of water, they
present to the Spirit who resides there some kind of offering, as the
prince of the Winnebagoes did when he attended me to the Falls of St.
Anthony.

But at the same time I fancy that the ideas they annex to the word
spirit, are very different from the conceptions more enlightened nations
entertain of it. They appear to fashion to themselves corporeal
representations of their gods, and believe them to be of a human form,
though of a nature more excellent than man.

Of the same kind are their sentiments relative to a futurity. They doubt
not but they shall exist in some future state; they however fancy that
their employments there will be similar to those they are engaged in
here, without the labour and difficulty annexed to them in this period
of their existence.

They consequently expect to be translated to a delightful country, where
they shall always have a clear unclouded sky, and enjoy a perpetual
spring; where the forests will abound with game, and the lakes with
fish, which might be taken without requiring a painful exertion of
skill, or a laborious pursuit; in short, that they shall live for ever
in regions of plenty, and enjoy every gratification they delight in
here, in a greater degree.

To intellectual pleasures they are strangers; nor are these included in
their scheme of happiness. But they expect that even these animal
pleasures will be proportioned and distributed according to their merit;
the skilful hunter, the bold and successful warrior, will be entitled to
a greater share than those who through indolence or want of skill cannot
boast of any superiority over the common herd.

The priests of the Indians are at the same time their physicians, and
their conjurors; whilst they heal their wounds or cure their diseases,
they interpret their dreams, give them protective charms, and satisfy
that desire which is so prevalent among them of searching into futurity.

How well they execute the latter part of their professional engagements,
and the methods they make use of on some of these occasions, I have
already shewn in the exertions of the priest of the Killistinoes, who
was fortunate enough to succeed in his extraordinary attempt near Lake
Superior. They frequently are successful likewise in administering the
salubrious herbs they have acquired a knowledge of; but that the
ceremonies they make use of during the administration of them
contributes to their success, I shall not take upon me to assert.

When any of the people are ill, the person who is invested with this
triple character of doctor, priest, and magician, sits by the patient
day and night, rattling in his ears a goad-shell filled with dry beans,
called a Chichicoué, and making a disagreeable noise that cannot be well
described.

This uncouth harmony one would imagine should disturb the sick person,
and prevent the good effects of the doctor’s prescription; but on the
contrary they believe that the method made use of contributes to his
recovery, by diverting from his malignant purposes the evil spirit who
has inflicted the disorder; or at least that it will take off his
attention, so that he shall not increase the malady. This they are
credulous enough to imagine he is constantly on the watch to do, and
would carry his inveteracy to a fatal length if they did not thus charm
him.

I could not discover that they make use of any other religious
ceremonies than those I have described; indeed, on the appearance of the
new moon they dance and sing; but it is not evident that they pay that
planet any adoration; they only seem to rejoice at the return of a
luminary that makes the night cheerful, and which serves to light them
on their way when they travel during the absence of the sun.

Notwithstanding Mr. Adair has asserted that the nations among whom he
resided, observe with very little variation all the rites appointed by
the Mosaic Law, I own I could never discover among those tribes that lie
but a few degrees to the north-west, the least traces of the Jewish
religion, except it be admitted that one particular female custom and
their division into tribes, carry with them proofs sufficient to
establish this assertion.

The Jesuits and French missionaries have also pretended that the Indians
had, when they first travelled into America, some notions, though these
were dark and confused, of the christian institution; that they have
been greatly agitated at the sight of a cross, and given proofs, by the
impressions made on them, that they were not entirely unacquainted with
the sacred mysteries of Christianity. I need not say that these are too
glaring absurdities to be credited, and could only receive their
existence from the zeal of those fathers, who endeavoured at once to
give the public a better opinion of the success of their missions, and
to add support to the cause they were engaged in.

The Indians appear to be in their religious principles rude and
uninstructed. The doctrines they hold are few and simple, and such as
have been generally impressed on the human mind, by some means or other,
in the most ignorant ages. They however have not deviated, as many other
uncivilized nations, and too many civilized ones have done, into
idolatrous modes of worship; they venerate indeed and make offerings to
the wonderful parts of the creation, as I have before observed; but
whether these rites are performed on account of the impression such
extraordinary appearances make on them, or whether they consider them as
the peculiar charge, or the usual places of residence of the invisible
spirits they acknowledge, I cannot positively determine.

The human mind in its uncultivated state is apt to ascribe the
extraordinary occurrences of nature, such as earthquakes, thunder, or
hurricanes, to the interposition of unseen beings; the troubles and
disasters also that are annexed to a savage life, the apprehensions
attendant on a precarious subsistence, and those numberless
inconveniencies which man in his improved state has found means to
remedy, are supposed to proceed from the interposition of evil spirits;
the savage consequently lives in continual apprehensions of their unkind
attacks, and to avert them has recourse to charms, to the fantastic
ceremonies of his priest, or the powerful influence of his Manitous.
Fear has of course a greater share in his devotions than gratitude, and
he pays more attention to deprecating the wrath of the evil than to
securing the favour of the good beings.

The Indians, however, entertain these absurdities in common with those
of every part of the globe who have not been illumined by that religion
which only can disperse the clouds of superstition and ignorance, and
they are as free from error as a people can be that has not been
favoured with its instructive doctrines.




                              CHAPTER XIV.

                       _Of their_ DISEASES, _&c._


THE Indians in general are healthy, and subject but to few diseases,
many of those that afflict civilized nations, and are the immediate
consequences of luxury or sloth, being not known among them; however the
hardships and fatigues which they endure in hunting or war, the
inclemency of the seasons to which they are continually exposed, but
above all the extremes of hunger, and that voraciousness their long
excursions consequently subject them to, cannot fail of impairing the
constitution, and bringing on disorders.

Pains and weaknesses in the stomach and breast are sometimes the result
of their long fasting, and consumptions of the excessive fatigue and
violent exercises they expose themselves to from their infancy, before
they have strength sufficient to support them. But the disorder to which
they are most subject, is the pleurisy; for the removal of which, they
apply their grand remedy and preservative against the generality of
their complaints, sweating.

The manner in which they construct their stoves for this purpose is as
follows: They fix several small poles in the ground, the tops of which
they twist together so as to form a rotunda: this frame they cover with
skins or blankets; and they lay them on with so much nicety, that the
air is kept from entering through any crevice; a small space being only
left just sufficient to creep in at, which is immediately after closed.
In the middle of this confined building they place red hot stones, on
which they pour water till a steam arises that produces a great degree
of heat.

This causes an instantaneous perspiration, which they increase as they
please. Having continued in it for some time, they immediately hasten to
the nearest stream, and plunge into the water; and, after bathing
therein for about half a minute, they put on their cloaths, sit down and
smoak with great composure, thoroughly persuaded that the remedy will
prove efficacious. They often make use of this sudoriferous method to
refresh themselves, or to prepare their minds for the management of any
business that requires uncommon deliberation and sagacity.

They are likewise afflicted with the dropsy and paralytic complaints,
which, however, are but very seldom known among them. As a remedy for
these as well as for fevers they make use of lotions and decoctions,
composed of herbs, which the physicians know perfectly well how to
compound and apply. But they never trust to medicines alone; they always
have recourse likewise to some superstitious ceremonies, without which
their patients would not think the physical preparations sufficiently
powerful.

With equal judgment they make use of simples for the cure of wounds,
fractures, or bruises; and are able to extract by these, without
incision, splinters, iron, or any sort of matter by which the wound is
caused. In cures of this kind they are extremely dextrous, and complete
them in much less time than might be expected from their mode of
proceeding.

With the skin of a snake, which those reptiles annually shed, they will
also extract splinters. It is amazing to see the sudden efficacy of this
application, notwithstanding there does not appear to be the least
moisture remaining in it.

It has long been a subject of dispute, on what continent the venereal
disease first received its destructive power. This dreadful malady is
supposed to have originated in America, but the literary contest still
remains undecided; to give some elucidation to it I shall remark, that
as I could not discover the least traces among the Naudowessies with
whom I resided so long, and was also informed that it was yet unknown
among the more western nations, I think I may venture to pronounce that
it had not its origin in North America. Those nations that have any
communication with the Europeans or the southern tribes are greatly
afflicted with it; but they have all of them acquired a knowledge of
such certain and expeditious remedies, that the communication is not
attended with any dangerous consequences.

Soon after I set out on my travels, one of the traders whom I
accompanied, complained of a violent gonorrhœa, with all its alarming
symptoms: this increased to such a degree, that by the time we had
reached the town of the Winnebagoes, he was unable to travel. Having
made his complaint known to one of the chiefs of that tribe, he told him
not to be uneasy, for he would engage that by following his advice, he
should be able in a few days to pursue his journey, and in a little
longer time be entirely free from his disorder.

The chief had no sooner said this than he prepared for him a decoction
of the bark of the roots of the prickly Ash, a tree scarcely known in
England, but which grows in great plenty throughout North America; by
the use of which, in a few days he was greatly recovered, and having
received directions how to prepare it, in a fortnight after his
departure from this place perceived that he was radically cured.

If from excessive exercise, or the extremes of heat or cold, they are
affected with pains in their limbs or joints, they scarify the parts
affected. Those nations who have no commerce with Europeans do this with
a sharp flint; and it is surprizing to see to how fine a point they have
the dexterity to bring them; a lancet can scarcely exceed in sharpness
the instruments they make of this unmalleable substance.

They never can be convinced a person is ill, whilst he has an appetite;
but when he rejects all kind of nourishment, they consider the disease
as dangerous, and pay great attention to it; and during the continuance
of the disorder, the physician refuses his patient no sort of food that
he is desirous of.

Their doctors are not only supposed to be skilled in the physical
treatment of diseases, but the common people believe that by the
ceremony of the chichicoué usually made use of, as before described,
they are able to gain intelligence from the spirits of the cause of the
complaints with which they are afflicted, and are thereby the better
enabled to find remedies for them. They discover something supernatural
in all their diseases, and the physic administered must invariably be
aided by these superstitions.

Sometimes a sick person fancies that his disorder arises from
witchcraft; in this case the physician or juggler is consulted, who,
after the usual preparations, gives his opinion on the state of the
disease, and frequently finds some means for his cure. But
notwithstanding the Indian physicians always annex these superstitious
ceremonies to their prescriptions, it is very certain, as I have already
observed, that they exercise their art by principles which are founded
on the knowledge of simples, and on experience which they acquire by an
indefatigable attention to their operations.

The following story, which I received from a person of undoubted credit,
proves that the Indians are not only able to reason with great acuteness
on the causes and symptoms of many of the disorders which are attendant
on human nature, but to apply with equal judgment proper remedies.

In Penobscot, a settlement in the province of Main, in the north-east
parts of New England, the wife of a soldier was taken in labour, and
notwithstanding every necessary assistance was given her, could not be
delivered. In this situation she remained for two or three days, the
persons around her expecting that the next pang would put an end to her
existence.

An Indian woman, who accidentally passed by, heard the groans of the
unhappy sufferer, and enquired from whence they proceeded. Being made
acquainted with the desperate circumstances attending the case, she told
the informant, that if she might be permitted to see the person, she did
not doubt but that she could be of great service to her.

The surgeon that had attended, and the midwife who was then present,
having given up every hope of preserving their patient, the Indian woman
was allowed to make use of any methods she thought proper. She
accordingly took a handkerchief, and bound it tight over the nose and
mouth of the woman: this immediately brought on a suffocation; and from
the struggles that consequently ensued she was in a few seconds
delivered. The moment this was atchieved, and time enough to prevent any
fatal effect, the handkerchief was taken off. The long suffering patient
thus happily relieved from her pains, soon after perfectly recovered, to
the astonishment of all those who had been witness to her desperate
situation.

The reason given by the Indian for this hazardous method of proceeding
was, that desperate disorders require desperate remedies; that as she
observed the exertions of nature were not sufficiently forcible to
effect the desired consequence, she thought it necessary to augment
their force, which could only be done by some mode that was violent in
the extreme.




                              CHAPTER XV.

            _Of the Manner in which they treat their_ DEAD.


AN Indian meets death when it approaches him in his hut, with the same
resolution he has often faced him in the field. His indifference
relative to this important article, which is the source of so many
apprehensions to almost every other nation, is truly admirable. When his
fate is pronounced by the physician, and it remains no longer uncertain,
he harangues those about him with the greatest composure.

If he is a chief and has a family, he makes a kind of funeral oration,
which he concludes by giving to his children such advice for the
regulation of their conduct as he thinks necessary. He then takes leave
of his friends, and issues out orders for the preparation of a feast,
which is designed to regale those of his tribe that come to pronounce
his eulogium.

After the breath is departed, the body is dressed in the same attire it
usually wore whilst living, his face is painted, and he is seated in an
erect posture on a mat or skin placed in the middle of the hut, with his
weapons by his side. His relations being seated round, each harangues in
turn the deceased; and if he has been a great warrior, recounts his
heroic actions nearly to the following purport, which in the Indian
language is extremely poetical and pleasing:

“You still sit among us, Brother, your person retains its usual
resemblance, and continues similar to ours, without any visible
deficiency, except that it has lost the power of action. But whither is
that breath flown, which a few hours ago sent up smoke to the Great
Spirit? Why are those lips silent, that lately delivered to us
expressive and pleasing language? why are those feet motionless, that a
short time ago were fleeter than the deer on yonder mountains? why
useless hang those arms that could climb the tallest tree, or draw the
toughest bow? Alas! every part of that frame which we lately beheld with
admiration and wonder, is now become as inanimate as it was three
hundred winters ago. We will not, however, bemoan thee as if thou wast
for ever lost to us, or that thy name would be buried in oblivion; thy
soul yet lives in the great Country of Spirits, with those of thy nation
that are gone before thee; and though we are left behind to perpetuate
thy fame, we shall one day join thee. Actuated by the respect we bore
thee whilst living, we now come to tender to thee the last act of
kindness it is in our power to bestow: that thy body might not lie
neglected on the plain, and become a prey to the beasts of the field, or
the fowls of the air, we will take care to lay it with those of thy
predecessors who are gone before thee; hoping at the same time, that thy
spirit will feed with their spirits, and be ready to receive ours, when
we also shall arrive at the great Country of Souls.”

In short speeches somewhat similar to this does every chief speak the
praises of his departed friend. When they have so done, if they happen
to be at a great distance from the place of interment appropriated to
their tribe, and the person dies during the winter season, they wrap the
body in skins, and lay it on a high stage built for this purpose, or on
the branches of a large tree, till the spring arrives. They then, after
the manner described in my Journal, carry it, together with all those
belonging to the same nation, to the general burial-place, where it is
interred with some other ceremonies that I could not discover.

When the Naudowessies brought their dead for interment to the great
cave, I attempted to get an insight into the remaining burial rites; but
whether it was on account of the stench which arose from so many bodies,
the weather being then hot, or whether they chose to keep this part of
their customs secret from me, I could not discover; I found, however,
that they considered my curiosity as ill-timed, and therefore I
withdrew.

After the interment, the band to which the person belongs, take care to
fix near the place such hieroglyphicks as shall show to future ages his
merit and accomplishments. If any of these people die in the summer at a
distance from the burying-ground, and they find it impossible to remove
the body before it putrefies, they burn the flesh from the bones, and
preserving the latter, bury them in the manner described.

As the Indians believe that the souls of the deceased employ themselves
in the same manner in the country of spirits, as they did on earth, that
they acquire their food by hunting, and have there, also, enemies to
contend with, they take care that they do not enter those regions
defenceless and unprovided: they consequently bury with them their bows,
their arrows, and all the other weapons used either in hunting or war.
As they doubt not but they will likewise have occasion both for the
necessaries of life, and those things they esteem as ornaments, they
usually deposit in their tombs such skins or stuffs as they commonly
made their garments of, domestic utensils, and paint for ornamenting
their persons.

The near relations of the deceased lament his loss with an appearance of
great sorrow and anguish; they weep and howl, and make use of many
contortions, as they sit in the hut or tent around the body, when the
intervals between the praises of the chiefs will permit.

One formality in mourning for the dead among the Naudowessies is very
different from any mode I observed in the other nations through which I
passed. The men, to show how great their sorrow is, pierce the flesh of
their arms, above the elbows, with arrows; the scars of which I could
perceive on those of every rank, in a greater or less degree; and the
women cut and gash their legs with sharp broken flints, till the blood
flows very plentifully.

Whilst I remained among them, a couple whose tent was adjacent to mine,
lost a son of about four years of age. The parents were so much affected
at the death of their favourite child, that they pursued the usual
testimonies of grief with such uncommon rigour, as through the weight of
sorrow and loss of blood, to occasion the death of the father. The
woman, who had hitherto been inconsolable, no sooner saw her husband
expire, than she dried up her tears, and appeared cheerful and resigned.

As I knew not how to account for so extraordinary a transition, I took
an opportunity to ask her the reason of it; telling her at the same
time, that I should have imagined the loss of her husband would rather
have occasioned an increase of grief, than such a sudden diminution of
it.

She informed me, that as the child was so young when it died, and unable
to support itself in the country of spirits, both she and her husband
had been apprehensive that its situation would be far from happy; but no
sooner did she behold its father depart for the same place, who not only
loved the child with the tenderest affection, but was a good hunter, and
would be able to provide plentifully for its support, than she ceased to
mourn. She added, that she now saw no reason to continue her tears, as
the child on whom she doated was happy under the care and protection of
a fond father, and she had only one wish that remained ungratified,
which was that of being herself with them.

Expressions so replete with unaffected tenderness, and sentiments that
would have done honour to a Roman matron, made an impression on my mind
greatly in favour of the people to whom she belonged, and tended not a
little to counteract the prejudices I had hitherto entertained, in
common with every other traveller, of Indian insensibility and want of
parental tenderness.

Her subsequent conduct confirmed the favourable opinion I had just
imbibed; and convinced me, that, notwithstanding this apparent
suspension of her grief, some particles of that reluctance to be
separated from a beloved relation, which is implanted either by nature
or custom in every human heart, still lurked in hers. I observed that
she went almost every evening to the foot of the tree, on a branch of
which the bodies of her husband and child were laid, and after cutting
off a lock of her hair, and throwing it on the ground, in a plaintive
melancholy song bemoaned its fate. A recapitulation of the actions he
might have performed, had his life been spared, appeared to be her
favourite theme; and whilst she foretold the fame that would have
attended an imitation of his father’s virtues, her grief seemed to be
suspended:—

“If thou hadst continued with us, my dear Son,” would she cry, “how well
would the bow have become thy hand, and how fatal would thy arrows have
proved to the enemies of our bands. Thou wouldst often have drank their
blood, and eaten their flesh, and numerous slaves would have rewarded
thy toils. With a nervous arm wouldst thou have seized the wounded
buffalo, or have combated the fury of the enraged bear. Thou wouldst
have overtaken the flying elk, and have kept pace on the mountain’s brow
with the fleetest deer. What feats mightest thou not have performed,
hadst thou staid among us till age had given thee strength, and thy
father had instructed thee in every Indian accomplishment!” In terms
like these did this untutored savage bewail the loss of her son, and
frequently would she pass the greatest part of the night in the
affectionate employ.

The Indians in general are very strict in the observance of their laws
relative to mourning for their dead. In some nations they cut off their
hair, blacken their faces, and sit in an erect posture, with their heads
closely covered, and depriving themselves of every pleasure. This
severity is continued for several months, and with some relaxations the
appearance is sometimes kept up for several years. I was told that when
the Naudowessies recollected any incidents of the lives of their
deceased relations, even after an interval of ten years, they would howl
so as to be heard at a great distance. They would sometimes continue
this proof of respect and affection for several hours; and if it
happened that the thought occurred, and the noise was begun towards the
evening, those of their tribe who were at hand would join with them.




                              CHAPTER XVI.

                _A concise_ CHARACTER _of the_ INDIANS.


THE character of the Indians, like that of other uncivilized nations, is
composed of a mixture of ferocity and gentleness. They are at once
guided by passions and appetites, which they hold in common with the
fiercest beasts that inhabit their woods, and are possessed of virtues
which do honour to human nature.

In the following estimate I shall endeavour to forget on the one hand
the prejudices of Europeans, who usually annex to the word Indian
epithets that are disgraceful to human nature, and who view them in no
other light than as savages and cannibals; whilst with equal care I
avoid any partiality towards them, as some must naturally arise from the
favourable reception I met with during my stay among them.

At the same time I shall confine my remarks to the nations inhabiting
only the western regions, such as the Naudowessies, the Ottagaumies, the
Chipéways, the Winnebagoes, and the Saukies; for as throughout that
diversity of climates, the extensive continent of America is composed
of, there are people of different dispositions and various characters,
it would be incompatible with my present undertaking to treat of all
these, and to give a general view of them as a conjunctive body.

That the Indians are of a cruel, revengeful, inexorable disposition,
that they will watch whole days unmindful of the calls of nature, and
make their way through pathless, and almost unbounded woods, subsisting
only on the scanty produce of them, to pursue and revenge themselves of
an enemy; that they hear unmoved the piercing cries of such as unhappily
fall into their hands, and receive a diabolical pleasure from the
tortures they inflict on their prisoners, I readily grant; but let us
look on the reverse of this terrifying picture, and we shall find them
temperate both in their diet and potations (it must be remembered, that
I speak of those tribes who have little communication with Europeans)
that they with-stand, with unexampled patience, the attacks of hunger,
or the inclemency of the seasons, and esteem the gratification of their
appetites but as a secondary consideration.

We shall likewise see them sociable and humane to those whom they
consider as their friends, and even to their adopted enemies; and ready
to partake with them of the last morsel, or to risk their lives in their
defence.

In contradiction to the report of many other travellers, all of which
have been tinctured with prejudice, I can assert, that notwithstanding
the apparent indifference with which an Indian meets his wife and
children after a long absence, an indifference proceeding rather from
custom than insensibility, he is not unmindful of the claims either of
connubial or parental tenderness; the little story I have introduced in
the preceding chapter of the Naudowessie woman lamenting her child, and
the immature death of the father, will elucidate this point, and enforce
the assertion much better than the most studied arguments I can make use
of.

Accustomed from their youth to innumerable hardships, they soon become
superior to a sense of danger or the dread of death; and their
fortitude, implanted by nature, and nurtured by example, by precept, and
accident, never experiences a moment’s allay.

Though slothful and inactive whilst their store of provision remains
unexhausted, and their foes are at a distance, they are indefatigable
and persevering in pursuit of their game, or in circumventing their
enemies.

If they are artful and designing, and ready to take every advantage, if
they are cool and deliberate in their councils, and cautious in the
extreme either of discovering their sentiments, or of revealing a
secret, they might at the same time boast of possessing qualifications
of a more animated nature, of the sagacity of a hound, the penetrating
sight of a lynx, the cunning of the fox, the agility of a bounding roe,
and the unconquerable fierceness of the tyger.

In their public characters, as forming part of a community, they possess
an attachment for that band to which they belong, unknown to the
inhabitants of any other country. They combine, as if they were actuated
only by one soul, against the enemies of their nation, and banish from
their minds every consideration opposed to this.

They consult without unnecessary opposition, or without giving way to
the excitements of envy or ambition, on the measures necessary to be
pursued for the destruction of those who have drawn on themselves their
displeasure. No selfish views ever influence their advice, or obstruct
their consultations. Nor is it in the power of bribes or threats to
diminish the love they bear their country.

The honour of their tribe, and the welfare of their nation, is the first
and most predominant emotion of their hearts; and from hence proceed in
a great measure all their virtues and their vices. Actuated by this,
they brave every danger, endure the most exquisite torments, and expire
triumphing in their fortitude, not as a personal qualification, but as a
national characteristic.

From thence also flow that insatiable revenge towards those with whom
they are at war, and all the consequent horrors that disgrace their
name. Their uncultivated mind, being incapable of judging of the
propriety of an action, in opposition to their passions, which are
totally insensible to the controuls of reason or humanity, they know not
how to keep their fury within any bounds, and consequently that courage
and resolution, which would otherwise do them honour, degenerates into a
savage ferocity.

But this short dissertation must suffice; the limits of my work will not
permit me to treat the subject more copiously, or to pursue it with a
logical regularity. The observations already made by my readers on the
preceding pages, will, I trust, render it unnecessary; as by them they
will be enabled to form a tolerably just idea of the people I have been
describing. Experience teaches, that anecdotes, and relations of
particular events, however trifling they might appear, enable us to form
a truer judgment of the manners and customs of a people, and are much
more declaratory of their real state, than the most studied and
elaborate disquisition, without these aids.




                              CHAP. XVII.

               _Of their_ LANGUAGE, HIEROGLYPHICKS, _&c._


THE principal languages of the natives of North America may be divided
into four classes, as they consist of such as are made use of by the
nations of the Iroquois towards the eastern parts of it, the Chipéways
or Algonkins to the north-west, the Naudowessies to the west, and the
Cherokees, Chickasaws, &c. to the south. One or other of these four are
used by all the Indians who inhabit the parts that lie between the coast
of Labradore north, the Florida south, the Atlantic ocean east, and, as
far as we can judge from the discoveries hitherto made, the Pacific
Ocean on the west.

But of all these, the Chipéway tongue appears to be the most prevailing;
it being held in such esteem, that the chiefs of every tribe, dwelling
about the great lakes, or to the westward of these on the banks of the
Mississippi, with those as far south as the Ohio, and as far north as
Hudson’s Bay, consisting of more than thirty different tribes, speak
this language alone in their councils, notwithstanding each has a
peculiar one of their own.

It will probably in time become universal among all the Indian nations,
as none of them attempt to make excursions to any great distance, or are
considered as qualified to carry on any negociation with a distant band,
unless they have acquired the Chipéway tongue.

At present, besides the Chipéways, to whom it is natural, the Ottawaws,
the Saukies, the Ottagaumies, the Killistinoes, the Nipegons, the bands
about Lake Le Pleuve, and the remains of the Algonkins or Gens de Terre,
all converse in it, with some little variation of dialect; but whether
it be natural to these nations, or acquired, I was not able to discover.
I am however of opinion that the barbarous and uncouth dialect of the
Winnebagoes, the Menomonies, and many other tribes, will become in time
totally extinct, and this be adopted in its stead.

The Chipéway tongue is not incumbered with any unnecessary tones or
accents, neither are there any words in it that are superfluous; it is
also easy to pronounce, and much more copious than any other Indian
language.

As the Indians are unacquainted with the polite arts, or with the
sciences, and as they are also strangers to ceremony or compliment, they
neither have nor need an infinity of words wherewith to embellish their
discourse. Plain and unpolished in their manners, they only make use of
such as serve to denominate the necessaries or conveniences of life, and
to express their wants, which in a state of nature can be but few.

I have annexed hereto a short vocabulary of the Chipéway language, and
another of that of the Naudowessies, but am not able to reduce them to
the rules of grammar.

The latter is spoken in a soft accent, without any guttural sounds, so
that it may be learnt with facility, and is not difficult either to be
pronounced or written. It is nearly as copious and expressive as the
Chipéway tongue, and is the most prevailing language of any on the
Western banks of the Mississippi; being in use, according to their
account, among all the nations that lie to the north of the Messorie,
and extend as far west as the shores of the Pacific Ocean.

As the Indians are not acquainted with letters, it is very difficult to
convey with precision the exact sound of their words; I have however
endeavoured to write them as near to the manner in which they are
expressed, as such an uncertain mode will admit of.

Although the Indians cannot communicate their ideas by writing, yet they
form certain hieroglyphicks, which, in some measure, serve to perpetuate
any extraordinary transaction, or uncommon event. Thus when they are on
their excursions, and either intend to proceed, or have been, on any
remarkable enterprize, they peel the bark from the trees which lie in
their way, to give intelligence to those parties that happen to be at a
distance, of the path they must pursue to overtake them.

The following instance will convey a more perfect idea of the methods
they make use of on this occasion, than any expressions I can frame.

When I left the Mississippi, and proceeded up the Chipéway River in my
way to Lake Superior, as related in my Journal, my guide, who was a
chief of the Chipéways that dwell on the Ottawaw Lake, near the heads of
the river we had just entered, fearing that some parties of the
Naudowessies, with whom his nation are perpetually at war, might
accidentally fall in with us, and before they were apprized of my being
in company, do us some mischief, he took the following steps.

He peeled the bark from a large tree near the entrance of a river, and
with wood-coal mixed with bear’s-grease, their usual substitute for ink,
made in an uncouth but expressive manner the figure of the town of the
Ottagaumies. He then formed to the left a man dressed in skins, by which
he intended to represent a Naudowessie, with a line drawn from his mouth
to that of a deer, the symbol of the Chipéways. After this he depictured
still farther to the left a canoe as proceeding up the river, in which
he placed a man sitting with a hat on; this figure was designed to
represent an Englishman, or myself, and my Frenchman was drawn with a
handkerchief tied round his head, and rowing the canoe; to these he
added several other significant emblems, among which the Pipe of Peace
appeared painted on the prow of the canoe.

The meaning he intended to convey to the Naudowessies, and which I doubt
not appeared perfectly intelligible to them, was, that one of the
Chipéway chiefs had received a speech from some Naudowessie chiefs at
the town of the Ottagaumies, desiring him to conduct the Englishman, who
had lately been among them, up the Chipéway river; and that they thereby
required, that the Chipéway, notwithstanding he was an avowed enemy,
should not be molested by them on his passage, as he had the care of a
person whom they esteemed as one of their nation.

Some authors have pretended that the Indians have armorial bearings,
which they blazon with great exactness, and which distinguish one nation
from another; but I never could observe any other arms among them than
the symbols already described.


              A short VOCABULARY of the Chipéway Language.

              N. B. This people do not make use either of
                         the consonants F or V.


                                   A

       Above                          _Spimink_
       Abandon                        _Packiton_
       Admirable                      _Pilawah_
       Afterwards                     _Mipidach_
       All                            _Kokinum_
       Always                         _Kokali_
       Amiss                          _Napitch_
       Arrive                         _Takouchin_
       Ax                             _Agacwet_
       Ashes                          _Pingoe_
       Assist                         _Mawinewáh_


                                   B

       Ball                           _Alewin_
       Bag, or tobacco-pouch          _Caspetawgan_
       Barrel                         _Owentawgan_
       Beat                           _Pakkite_
       Bear, a                        _Mackwah_
       Bear, a young one              _Makon_
       Beaver                         _Amik_
       Beaver’s skin                  _Apiminiqué_
       Be, or to be                   _Tapaié_
       Beard                          _Mischiton_
       Because                        _Mewinch_
       Believe                        _Tilerimah_
       Belly                          _Mishemout_
       Black                          _Markaute_
       Blood                          _Miskow_
       Body                           _Yoe_
       Bottle                         _Shishego_
       Brother                        _Neconnis_
       Brandy, or Rum                 _Scuttawawbah_
       Bread                          _Paboushigan_
       Breech                         _Miscousab_
       Breeches                       _Kipokitie Kousah_
       Buck                           _Wasketch_


                                   C

       Canoe                          _Cheman_
       Call                           _Teshenekaw_
       Chief, a                       _Okemaw_
       Carry                          _Petou_
       Child, or Children             _Bobeloshin_
       Coat                           _Capotewian_
       Cold, I am                     _Kekatch_
       Come on                        _Moppa_
       Come to                        _Pemotcha_
       Comrade                        _Neechee_
       Concerned                      _Tallemissi_
       Corn                           _Melomin_
       Covering, or a Blanket         _Wawbewion_
       Country                        _Endawlawkeen_
       Courage                        _Tagwawmissii_
       Cup                            _Olawgan_


                                   D

       Dance                          _Nemeh_
       Dart                           _Sheshikwee_
       Die, to                        _Nip_
       Dish                           _Mackoan_
       Dog                            _Alim_
       Dead                           _Neepoo_
       Devil, or evil Spirit          _Matcho-Manitou_
       Dog, a little one              _Alemon_
       Done, it is done               _Shiah_
       Do                             _Toshiton_
       Doubtless                      _Ontclatoubah_
       Dress the kettle               _Poutwah_
       Drink                          _Minikwah_
       Drunken                        _Ouisquiba_
       Duck                           _Chickhip_


                                   E

       Earth                          _Aukwin_
       Eat                            _Owissiné_
       Each                           _Papégik_
       English                        _Sagaunosh_
       Enough                         _Mimilic_
       Equal, or alike                _Tawbiscouch_
       Esteem                         _Nawpetelimáw_
       Eyes                           _Wiskinkhie_


                                   F

       Fast                           _Waliebic_
       Fall                           _Ponkisin_
       Far off                        _Watsaw_
       Fat                            _Pimmitee_
       Friend                         _Niconnis_
       Father                         _Noosah_
       Few, or little                 _Maungis_
       Fatigued                       _Taukwissi_
       Field sown                     _Kittegaumic_
       Fire                           _Scutta_
       Fire, to strike                _Scutecke_
       Find                           _Nantounawaw_
       Fish                           _Kickon_
       Fork                           _Nassawokwot_
       Formerly                       _Pirwego_
       Fort                           _Wakaigon_
       Forward                        _Nopawink_
       French                         _Nechtegoosh_
       Freeze, to                     _Kissin_
       Freezes hard                   _Kissin Magat_
       Full                           _Mouskinet_
       Fuzee or Gun                   _Paskessigan_


                                   G

       God, or the Great Spirit       _Kitchi Manitou_
       Go by water                    _Pimmiscaw_
       Girl                           _Jeckwassin_
       Give                           _Millaw_
       Glass, a mirror                _Wawbemo_
       Good                           _Cawlatch_
       Good for nothing               _Malatal_
       Govern                         _Tibarimaw_
       General, or Commander in Chief _Kitchi Okimaw Simáuganish_
       Grapes                         _Shoamin_
       Great                          _Manatou_
       Greedy                         _Sawsáwkissi_
       Guts                           _Oláwbish_


                                   H

       Hare                           _Wawpoos_
       Heart                          _Michewah_
       Hate                           _Shingaurimaw_
       Half                           _Nawbal_
       Hair, human                    _Lissis_
       Hair of beasts                 _Pewal_
       Handsome                       _Canogininne_
       Have                           _Tandaulaw_
       Head                           _Oustecouan_
       Heaven                         _Speminkakwin_
       Herb                           _Mejask_
       Here                           _Aconda_
       Hidden                         _Kemouch_
       Home                           _Entayent_
       Honour                         _Mackawalaw_
       Hot                            _Akeshotta_
       How                            _Tawné_
       How many                       _Tawnemilik_
       Hunt                           _Kewassa_
       Hut, or House                  _Wig-Waum_


                                   I

       Indians                        _Ishinawbah_
       Iron                           _Pewawbick_
       Island                         _Minis_
       Immediately                    _Webatch_
       Indian Corn                    _Mittawmin_
       Intirely                       _Nawpitch_
       Impostor                       _Mawlawtissie_
       It might be so                 _Tawneendo_


                                   K

       Kettle                         _Ackikons_
       King, or Chief                 _Okemaw_
       Keep                           _Ganwerimaw_
       Knife                          _Mockoman_
       Knife that is crooked          _Cootawgon_
       Know                           _Thickeremaw_


                                   L

       Lake                           _Kitchigawmink_
       Laugh                          _Pawpi_
       Lazy                           _Kittimi_
       Lame                           _Kikekate_
       Leave                          _Pockiton_
       Letter                         _Mawsignaugon_
       Life                           _Nouchimowin_
       Love                           _Saukie_
       Long since                     _Shawshia_
       Land Carriage                  _Cappatawgon_
       Lose                           _Packilaugué_
       Lie down                       _Weepemaw_
       Little                         _Waubesheen_


                                   M

       Meat                           _Weas_
       Much                           _Nibbilaw_
       Man                            _Allissinape_
       March, to go                   _Pimmoussie_
       Marry                          _Weewin_
       Medicine                       _Maskikic_
       Merchandize                    _Alokochigon_
       Moon                           _Debicot_
       Mortar to pound in             _Poutawgon_
       Male                           _Nape_
       Mistress                       _Neremousin_


                                   N

       Needle                         _Shawbonkin_
       Near                           _Pewitch_
       Nation                         _Irinee_
       Never                          _Cawikkaw_
       Night                          _Debicot_
       No                             _Kaw_
       Nose                           _Yoch_
       Nothing                        _Kakego_
       Not yet                        _Kawmischi_
       Not at all                     _Kagutch_
       Nought, good for nothing       _Malatat_


                                   O

       Old                            _Kauweshine_
       Otter                          _Nikkik_
       Other                          _Coutack_


                                   P

       Pipe                           _Poagan_
       Part, what Part                _Tawnapee_
       Play                           _Packeigo_
       Powder, gun, or dust           _Pingo_
       Peace, to make                 _Pecacotiche_
       Pray                           _Tawlaimia_
       Proper                         _Sawsega_
       Presently                      _Webatch_
       Peninsula                      _Minnissin_


                                   Q

       Quick                          _Kegotch_


                                   R

       Regard                         _Wawbemo_
       Red                            _Miscow_
       Resolve                        _Tibelindon_
       Relation                       _Tawwemaw_
       Respect                        _Tawbawmica_
       Rain                           _Kimmewan_
       Robe                           _Ockolaw_
       River                          _Sippim_
       Run, to                        _Pitchebot_


                                   S

       Sad                            _Talimissie_
       Sail                           _Pemiscaw_
       Sack, or Bag                   _Maskimot_
       Sea, or large Lake             _Agankitchigawmink_
       Shoes                          _Maukissin_
       Ship, or large Canoe           _Kitchi Cheman_
       Sorry                          _Niscottissie_
       Spirit                         _Manitou_
       Spoon                          _Mickwon_
       Star                           _Alank_
       Steal                          _Kemautin_
       Stockings                      _Mittaus_
       Strong                         _Mashkauwáh_
       Sturgeon                       _Lawmack_
       Sun                            _Kissis_
       Sword                          _Simaugan_
       Surprizing                     _Etwah, Etwah_
       See                            _Wawbemo_
       Since                          _Mapedoh_
       Shirt                          _Papawkwéan_
       Slave                          _Wackan_
       Sleep                          _Nippee_
       Sit down                       _Mintepin_


                                   T

       Take                           _Emaundah_
       Teeth                          _Tibbit_
       That                           _Mawbah_
       There                          _Watsaudebi_
       This                           _Maundah_
       Truly                          _Kikit_
       Together                       _Mawmawwee_
       Tobacco                        _Semau_
       Tongue                         _Outon_
       Tired                          _Tawkonsie_
       Too little                     _Osaummangis_
       Too much                       _Ossauné_
       Thank you                      _Megwatch_
       To-morrow                      _Wawbunk_
       To-morrow the day after        _Ouswawbunk_


                                   W

       Warriors                       _Semauganaush_
       Water                          _Nebbi_
       War                            _Nantaubaulaw_
       Way                            _Mickon_
       Well then!                     _Tauneendah!_
       What is that?                  _Wawwewin?_
       What now?                      _Quagonie?_
       Whence                         _Taunippi_
       Where                          _Tah_
       White                          _Waubé_
       Who is there?                  _Quagonie Maubah?_
       Wind                           _Loutin_
       Winter                         _Pepoun_
       Woman                          _Ickwee_
       Wood                           _Mittic_
       Wolf                           _Mawhingon_


                                   Y

       Yesterday                      _Petchilawgo_
       Yet                            _Minnewatch_
       Young                          _Wisconekissi_
       Yellow                         _Wazzo_.


                _The Numerical Terms of the Chipéways._

              One      _Páshik_
              Two      _Ninch_
              Three    _Nissou_
              Four     _Neau_
              Five     _Naran_
              Six      _Ningoutwassou_
              Seven    _Ninchowassou_
              Eight    _Nissowassou_
              Nine     _Shongassou_
              Ten      _Mittaussou_
              Eleven   _Mittaussou Páshik_
              Twenty   _Ninchtawnaw_
              Thirty   _Nissou Mittawnaw_
              Forty    _Neau Mittawnaw_
              Fifty    _Naran Mittawnaw_
              Sixty    _Ningoutwassou Mittawnaw_
              Seventy  _Ninchowassou Mittawnaw_
              Eighty   _Nissowassou Mittawnaw_
              Ninety   _Shongassou Mittawnaw_
              Hundred  _Mittaussou Mittawnaw_
              Thousand _Mittaussou Mittaussou Mittawnaw_.


            A Short VOCABULARY of the Naudowessie Language.

                                   A

           Axe                      _Ashpaw_


                                   B

           Beaver                   _Chawbah_
           Buffalo                  _Tawtongo_
           Bad                      _Shejah_
           Broach                   _Muzahootoo_
           Bear, a                  _Wahkonshejah_


                                   C

           Canoe                    _Waahtoh_
           Cold                     _Mechuetah_
           Child, a                 _Male Wechoakseh_
           Child, a Female          _Whacheekseh_
           Come here                _Accooyouiyare_


                                   D

           Dead                     _Negush_
           Deer                     _Tohinjoh_
           Dog                      _Shungush_


                                   E

           Eat                      _Echawmenaw_
           Ears                     _Nookah_
           Eyes                     _Eshtike_
           Evil                     _Shejah_


                                   F

           Fire                     _Paahtah_
           Father                   _Otah_
           Frenchman                _Neehteegush_
           Falls of Water           _Owah Menah_
           Friend                   _Kitchiwah_


                                   G

           Good                     _Woshtah_
           Give                     _Accooyeh_
           Go away                  _Accoowah_
           God, or the Great Spirit _Wakon_
           Gun                      _Muzah Wakon_
           Great                    _Tongo_
           Gold                     _Muzaham_


                                   H

           Hear                     _Nookishon_
           Horse                    _Shuetongo_
           Home, or domestic        _Shuah_
           House                    _Teebee_
           Heaven                   _Woshta Tebee_


                                   I

           Iron                     _Muzah_
           I, or me                 _Meoh_


                                   K

           King, or Chief           _Otah_
           Kill                     _Negushtaugaw_


                                   L

           Little                   _Jestin_
           Long                     _Tongoom_
           Lake                     _Tongo Meneh_
           Love                     _Ehwahmeah_


                                   M

           Much                     _Otah_
           More                     _Otenaw_
           Moon                     _Oweeh_
           Mouth                    _Eeh_
           Medal                    _Muzah Otah_
           Mine                     _Mewah_
           Milk                     _Etsawboh_


                                   N

           No                       _Heyah_
           Near                     _Jeestinaw_


                                   O

           Oh!                      _Hopiniyahie!_


                                   P

           Pipe                     _Shanuapaw_
           Pipe of Peace            _Shanuapaw Wakon_


                                   R

           Rain                     _Owah Meneh_
           Ring                     _Muzamchupah_
           Round                    _Chupah_


                                   S

           Smoke                    _Shaweah_
           Salt Water               _Menis Queah_
           See, to                  _Eshtaw_
           Sleep                    _Eshteemo_
           Snake                    _Omlishcaw_
           Sun                      _Paahtah_
           Spirit                   _Wakon_
           Spirituous Liquors       _Meneh Wakon_
           Snow                     _Sinnee_
           Surprizing               _Hopiniayare_
           Silver                   _Muzaham_


                                   T

           Tobacco                  _Shawsassaw_
           Talk                     _Owehchin_
           Tree                     _Ochaw_
           There                    _Daché_


                                   W

           Woman                    _Winnokejah_
           Wonderful                _Hopiniyare_
           Water                    _Meneh_
           What                     _Tawgo_
           Who is there?            _Tawgodaché?_
           Wicked                   _Heyahachta_


                                   Y

           You                      _Chee_
           Young                    _Hawpawnaw_
           You are good             _Washtah Chee_
           You are a Spirit         _Wakon Chee_
           You are my good Friend   _Washtah Kitchiwah Chee_
           No Good                  _Heyah Washtah_.


               _The Numerical Terms of the Naudowessies._

                One      _Wonchaw_
                Two      _Noompaw_
                Three    _Yawmonee_
                Four     _Toboh_
                Five     _Sawbuttee_
                Six      _Shawco_
                Seven    _Shawcopee_
                Eight    _Shahindohin_
                Nine     _Nebochunganong_
                Ten      _Wegochunganong_
                Eleven   _Wegochunganong Wonchaw_
                Twenty   _Wegochunganong Noompaw_
                Thirty   _Wegochunganong Yawmonee_
                Forty    _Wegochunganong Toboh_
                Fifty    _Wegochunganong Sawbuttee_
                Sixty    _Wegochunganong Shawco_
                Seventy  _Wegochunganong Shawcopee_
                Eighty   _Wegochunganong Shahindohin_
                Ninety   _Wegochunganong Nebochunganong_
                Hundred  _Opohng_
                Thousand _Wegochunganong Opohng_.


To this short vocabulary of the Naudowessie language, I shall adjoin a
specimen of the manner in which they unite their words. I have chosen
for this purpose a short song, which they sing, with some kind of
melody, though not with any appearance of poetical measure, when they
set out on their hunting expeditions: and have given as near a
translation as the difference of the idioms will permit.

_Meoh accoowah eshtaw paatah negushtawgaw shejah menah. Tongo Wakon meoh
woshta, paatah accoowah. Hopiniyahie oweeh accooyee meoh, woshta patah
otoh tohinjoh meoh teebee._

I will arise before the sun, and ascend yonder hill, to see the new
light chase away the vapours, and disperse the clouds. Great Spirit give
me success. And when the sun is gone, lend me, oh moon, light sufficient
to guide me with safety back to my tent loaden with deer!




                             CHAPTER XVIII.

        _Of the_ BEASTS, BIRDS, FISHES, REPTILES, _and_ INSECTS,
       _which are found in the interior Parts of North America._


OF these I shall, in the first place, give a catalogue, and afterwards a
description of such only as are either peculiar to this country, or
which differ in some material point from those that are to be met with
in other realms.


                             OF THE BEASTS.

The Tyger, the Bear, Wolves, Foxes, Dogs, the Cat of the Mountain, the
Wild Cat, the Buffalo, the Deer, the Elk, the Moose, the Carrabou, the
Carcajou, the Skunk, the Porcupine, the Hedge-hog, the Wood-chuck, the
Raccoon, the Martin, the Fisher, the Muskquaw, Squirrels, Hares,
Rabbits, the Mole, the Weezel, the Mouse, the Dormouse, the Beaver, the
Otter, the Mink, and Bats.


The TYGER. The Tyger of America resembles in shape those of Africa and
Asia, but is considerably smaller. Nor does it appear to be so fierce
and ravenous as they are. The colour of it is a darkish fallow, and it
is entirely free from spots. I saw one on an island in the Chipéway
River, of which I had a very good view, as it was at no great distance
from me. It sat up on its hinder parts like a dog; and did not seem
either to be apprehensive of our approach, or to discover any ravenous
inclinations. It is however very seldom to be met with in this part of
the world.

The BEAR. Bears are very numerous on this continent, but more
particularly so in the northern parts of it, and contribute to furnish
both food and beds for almost every Indian nation. Those of America
differ in many respects from those either of Greenland or Russia, they
being not only somewhat smaller, but timorous and inoffensive, unless
they are pinched by hunger, or smarting from a wound. The sight of a man
terrifies them; and a dog will put several to flight. They are extremely
fond of grapes, and will climb to the top of the highest trees in quest
of them. This kind of food renders their flesh excessively rich and
finely flavoured; and it is consequently preferred by the Indians and
traders to that of any other animal. The fat is very white, and besides
being sweet and wholesome, is possessed of one valuable quality, which
is, that it never cloys. The inhabitants of these parts constantly
anoint themselves with it, and to its efficacy they in a great measure
owe their agility. The season for hunting the bear is during the winter;
when they take up their abode in hollow trees, or make themselves dens
in the roots of those that are blown down, the entrance of which they
stop up with branches of fir that lie scattered about. From these
retreats it is said they stir not whilst the weather continues severe,
and as it is well known that they do not provide themselves with food,
they are supposed to be enabled by nature to subsist for some months
without, and during this time to continue of the same bulk.

The WOLF. The wolves of North America are much less than those which are
met with in other parts of the world. They have, however, in common with
the rest of their species, a wildness in their looks, and a fierceness
in their eyes; notwithstanding which they are far from being so ravenous
as the European wolves, nor will they ever attack a man, except they
have accidentally fed on the flesh of those slain in battle. When they
herd together, as they often do in the winter, they make a hideous and
terrible noise. In these parts there are two kinds; one of which is of a
fallow colour, the other of a dun, inclining to a black.

The FOX. There are two sorts of foxes in North America, which differ
only in their colour, one being of a reddish brown, the other of a grey;
those of the latter kind that are found near the river Mississippi, are
extremely beautiful, their hair being of a fine silver grey.

DOGS. The dogs employed by the Indians in hunting appear to be all of
the same species; they carry their ears erect, and greatly resemble a
wolf about the head. They are exceedingly useful to them in their
hunting excursions, and will attack the fiercest of the game they are in
pursuit of. They are also remarkable for their fidelity to their
masters; but being ill fed by them are very troublesome in their huts or
tents.

The CAT of the Mountain. This creature is in shape like a cat, only much
larger. The hair or fur resembles also the skin of that domestic animal;
the colour however differs, for the former is of a reddish or orange
cast, but grows lighter near the belly. The whole skin is beautified
with black spots of different figures, of which those on the back are
long, and those on the lower parts round. On the ears there are black
stripes. This creature is nearly as fierce as a leopard, but will seldom
attack a man.

The BUFFALO. This beast, of which there are amazing numbers in these
parts, is larger than an ox, has short black horns, with a large beard
under his chin, and his head is so full of hair, that it falls over his
eyes, and gives him a frightful look. There is a bunch on his back which
begins at the haunches, and increasing gradually to the shoulders,
reaches on to the neck. Both this excrescence and its whole body are
covered with long hair, or rather wool, of a dun or mouse colour, which
is exceedingly valuable, especially that on the fore part of the body.
Its head is larger than a bull’s, with a very short neck; the breast is
broad, and the body decreases towards the buttocks. These creatures will
run away at the sight of a man, and a whole herd will make off when they
perceive a single dog. The flesh of the buffalo is excellent food, its
hide extremely useful, and the hair very proper for the manufacture of
various articles.

The DEER. There is but one species of deer in North America, and these
are higher and of a slimmer make than those in Europe. Their shape is
nearly the same as the European, their colour of a deep fallow, and
their horns very large and branching. This beast is the swiftest on the
American plains, and they herd together as they do in other countries.

The ELK greatly exceeds the deer in size, being in bulk equal to a
horse. Its body is shaped like that of a deer, only its tail is
remarkably short, being not more than three inches long. The colour of
its hair, which is grey, and not unlike that of a camel, but of a more
reddish cast, is nearly three inches in length, and as coarse as that of
a horse. The horns of this creature grow to a prodigious size, extending
so wide that two or three persons might sit between them at the same
time. They are not forked like those of a deer, but have all their teeth
or branches on the outer edge. Nor does the form of those of the elk
resemble a deer’s, the former being flat, and eight or ten inches broad,
whereas the latter are round and considerably narrower. They shed their
horns every year in the month of February, and by August the new ones
are nearly arrived at their full growth. Notwithstanding their size, and
the means of defence nature has furnished them with, they are as
timorous as a deer. Their skin is very useful, and will dress as well as
that of a buck. They feed on grass in the summer, and on moss or buds in
the winter.

The MOOSE is nearly about the size of the elk, and the horns of it are
almost as enormous as that animal’s; the stem of them however are not
quite so wide, and they branch on both sides like those of a deer. This
creature also sheds them every year. Though its hinder parts are very
broad, its tail is not above an inch long. It has feet and legs like a
camel; its head is about two feet long, its upper lip much larger than
the under, and the nostrils of it are so wide that a man might thrust
his hand into them a considerable way. The hair of the moose is light
grey, mixed with a blackish red. It is very elastic, for though it be
beaten ever so long, it will retain its original shape. The flesh is
exceeding good food, easy of digestion, and very nourishing. The nose,
or upper lip, which is large and loose from the gums, is esteemed a
great delicacy, being of a firm consistence, between marrow and gristle,
and when properly dressed, affords a rich and luscious dish. Its hide is
very proper for leather, being thick and strong, yet soft and pliable.
The pace of this creature is always a trot, which is so expeditious,
that it is exceeded in swiftness but by few of its fellow inhabitants of
these woods. It is generally found in the forests, where it feeds on
moss and buds. Though this creature is of the deer kind, it never herds
as those do. Most authors confound it with the elk, deer, or carrabou,
but it is a species totally different, as might be discovered by
attending to the description I have given of each.

The CARRABOU. This beast is not near so tall as the moose, however it is
something like it in shape, only rather more heavy, and inclining to the
form of the ass. The horns of it are not flat as those of the elk are,
but round like those of the deer; they also meet nearer together at the
extremities, and bend more over the face, than either those of the elk
or moose. It partakes of the swiftness of the deer, and is with
difficulty overtaken by its pursuers. The flesh of it likewise is
equally as good, the tongue particularly is in high esteem. The skin
being smooth and free from veins, is as valuable as shamoy.

The CARCAJOU. This creature, which is of the cat kind, is a terrible
enemy to the preceding four species of beasts. He either comes upon them
from some concealment unperceived, or climbs up into a tree, and taking
his station on some of the branches, waits till one of them, driven by
an extreme of heat or cold, takes shelter under it; when he fastens upon
his neck, and opening the jugular vein, soon brings his prey to the
ground. This he is enabled to do by his long tail, with which he
encircles the body of his adversary; and the only means they have to
shun their fate, is by flying immediately to the water, by this method,
as the carcajou has a great dislike to that element, he is sometimes got
rid of before he can effect his purpose.

The SKUNK. This is the most extraordinary animal that the American woods
produce. It is rather less than a pole-cat, and of the same species; it
is therefore often mistaken for that creature, but is very different
from it in many points. Its hair is long and shining, variegated with
large black and white spots, the former mostly on the shoulders and
rump; its tail is very bushy, like that of the fox, part black, and part
white, like its body; it lives chiefly in the woods and hedges. But its
extraordinary powers are only shewn when it is pursued. As soon as he
finds himself in danger he ejects, to a great distance from behind, a
small stream of water, of so subtile a nature, and at the same time of
so powerful a smell, that the air is tainted with it for half a mile in
circumference; and his pursuers, whether men or dogs, being almost
suffocated with the stench, are obliged to give over the pursuit. On
this account he is called by the French, Enfant du Diable, the Child of
the Devil; or Bête Puante, the Stinking Beast. It is almost impossible
to describe the noisome effects of the liquid with which this creature
is supplied by nature for its defence. If a drop of it falls on your
cloaths, they are rendered so disagreeable that it is impossible ever
after to wear them; or if any of it enters your eyelids, the pain
becomes intolerable for a long time, and perhaps at last you lose your
sight. The smell of the skunk, though thus to be dreaded, is not like
that of a putrid carcase, but a strong fœtid effluvia of musk, which
displeases rather from its penetrating power than from its nauseousness.
It is notwithstanding considered as conducive to clear the head and to
raise the spirits. This water is supposed by naturalists to be its
urine; but I have dissected many of them that I have shot, and have
found within their bodies, near the urinal vessels, a small receptacle
of water, totally distinct from the bladder which contained the urine,
and from which alone I am satisfied the horrid stench proceeds. After
having taken out with great care the bag wherein this water is lodged, I
have frequently fed on them, and have found them very sweet and good;
but one drop emitted taints not only the carcase, but the whole house,
and renders every kind of provisions that are in it unfit for use. With
great justice therefore do the French give it such a diabolical name.

The PORCUPINE. The body of an American porcupine is in bulk about the
size of a small dog, but it is both shorter in length, and not so high
from the ground. It varies very much from those of other countries both
in its shape and the length of its quills. The former is like that of a
fox, except the head, which is not so sharp and long, but resembles more
that of a rabbit. Its body is covered with hair of a dark brown, about
four inches long, great part of which are the thickness of a straw, and
are termed its quills. These are white, with black points, hollow, and
very strong, especially those that grow on the back. The quills serve
this creature for offensive and defensive weapons, which he darts at his
enemies, and if they pierce the flesh in the least degree, they will
sink quite into it, and are not to be extracted without incision. The
Indians use them for boring their ears and noses to insert their
pendants, and also by way of ornament to their stockings, hair, &c.
besides which they greatly esteem the flesh.

The WOOD-CHUCK is a ground animal of the fur kind, about the size of a
martin, being nearly fifteen inches long; its body however is rounder,
and his legs shorter; the fore paws of it are broad, and constructed for
the purpose of digging holes in the ground, where it burrows like a
rabbit; its fur is of a grey colour on the reddish cast, and its flesh
tolerable food.

The RACOON is somewhat less in size than a beaver, and its feet and legs
are like those of that creature, but short in proportion to its body,
which resembles that of a badger. The shape of its head is much like a
fox’s, only the ears are shorter, more round and naked; and its hair is
also similar to that animal’s, being thick, long, soft, and black at the
ends. On its face there is a broad stripe that runs across it, and
includes the eyes, which are large. Its muzzle is black, and at the end
roundish like that of a dog; the teeth are also similar to those of a
dog in number and shape; the tail is long and round, with annular
stripes on it like those of a cat; the feet have five long slender toes
armed with sharp claws, by which it is enabled to climb up trees like a
monkey, and to run to the very extremities of the boughs. It makes use
of its fore feet in the manner of hands, and feeds itself with them. The
flesh of this creature is very good in the months of September and
October, when fruit and nuts, on which it likes to feed, are plenty.

The MARTIN is rather larger than a squirrel, and somewhat of the same
make; its legs and claws however are considerably shorter. Its ears are
short, broad, and roundish, and its eyes shine in the night like those
of a cat. The whole body is covered with fur of a brownish fallow
colour, and there are some in the more northern parts which are black;
the skins of the latter are of much greater value than the others. The
tail is covered with long hair, which makes it appear thicker than it
really is. Its flesh is sometimes eaten, but is not in any great esteem.

The MUSQUASH, or MUSK-RAT, is so termed for the exquisite musk which it
affords. It appears to be a diminutive of the beaver, being endowed with
all the properties of that sagacious animal, and wants nothing but size
and strength, being not much bigger than a large rat of the Norway
breed, to rival the creature it so much resembles. Was it not for its
tail, which is exactly the same as that of an European rat, the
structure of their bodies is so much alike, especially the head, that it
might be taken for a small beaver. Like that creature it builds itself a
cabbin, but of a less perfect construction, and takes up its abode near
the side of some piece of water. In the spring they leave their
retreats, and in pairs subsist on leaves and roots till the summer comes
on, when they feed on strawberries, rasberries, and such other fruits as
they can reach. At the approach of winter they separate, when each takes
up its lodging apart by itself in some hollow of a tree, where they
remain quite unprovided with food, and there is the greatest reason to
believe, subsist without any till the return of spring.

SQUIRRELS. There are five sorts of squirrels in America; the red, the
grey, the black, the variegated, and the flying. The two former are
exactly the same as those of Europe; the black are somewhat larger, and
differ from them only in colour; the variegated also resemble them in
shape and figure, but are very beautiful, being finely striped with
white or grey, and sometimes with red and black. The American flying
squirrel is much less than the European, being not above five inches
long, and of a russet grey or ash-colour on the back, and white on the
under parts. It has black prominent eyes like those of the mouse, with a
long flat broad tail. By a membrane on each side which reaches from its
fore to its hind legs, this creature is enabled to leap from one tree to
another, even if they stand a considerable distance apart; this loose
skin, which it is enabled to stretch out like a sail, and by which it is
buoyed up, is about two inches broad, and is covered with a fine hair or
down. It feeds upon the same provisions as the others, and is easily
tamed.

The BEAVER. This creature has been so often treated of, and his uncommon
abilities so minutely described, that any further account of it will
appear unnecessary; however for the benefit of those of my readers who
are not so well acquainted with the form and properties of this
sagacious and useful animal, I shall give a concise description of it.
The beaver is an amphibious quadruped, which cannot live for any long
time in the water, and it is said is even able to exist entirely without
it, provided it has the convenience of sometimes bathing itself. The
largest beavers are nearly four feet in length, and about fourteen or
fifteen inches in breadth over the haunches; they weigh about sixty
pounds. Its head is like that of the otter, but larger; its snout is
pretty long, the eyes small, the ears short, round, hairy on the
outside, and smooth within, and its teeth very long; the under teeth
stand out of their mouths about the breadth of three fingers, and the
upper half a finger, all of which are broad, crooked, strong, and sharp;
besides those teeth called the incisors, which grow double, are set very
deep in their jaws, and bend like the edge of an axe, they have sixteen
grinders, eight on each side, four above and four below, directly
opposite to each other. With the former they are able to cut down trees
of a considerable size, with the latter to break the hardest substances.
Its legs are short, particularly the fore legs, which are only four or
five inches long, and not unlike those of a badger; the toes of the fore
feet are separate, the nails placed obliquely, and are hollow like
quills; but the hind feet are quite different, and furnished with
membranes between the toes. By this means it can walk, though but
slowly, and is able to swim with as much ease as any other aquatic
animal. The tail has somewhat in it that resembles a fish, and seems to
have no manner of relation to the rest of the body, except the hind
feet, all the other parts being similar to those of land animals. The
tail is covered with a skin furnished with scales, that are joined
together by a pellicle; these scales are about the thickness of
parchment, nearly a line and a half in length, and generally of a
hexagonical figure, having six corners; it is about eleven or twelve
inches in length, and broader in the middle, where it is four inches
over, than either at the root or the extremity. It is about two inches
thick near the body, where it is almost round, and grows gradually
thinner and flatter to the end. The colour of the beaver is different
according to the different climates in which it is found. In the most
northern parts they are generally quite black; in more temperate, brown;
their colour becoming lighter and lighter as they approach towards the
south. The fur is of two sorts all over the body, except at the feet,
where it is very short; that which is the longest is generally in length
about an inch, but on the back it sometimes extends to two inches,
gradually diminishing towards the head and tail. This part of the fur is
harsh, coarse, and shining, and of little use; the other part consists
of a very thick and fine down, so soft that it feels almost like silk,
about three quarters of an inch in length, and is what is commonly
manufactured. Castor, which is useful in medicine, is produced from the
body of this creature; it was formerly believed to be its testicles, but
later discoveries have shown that it is contained in four bags situated
in the lower belly. Two of which, that are called the superior from
their being more elevated than the others, are filled with a soft
resinous adhesive matter, mixed with small fibres, greyish without, and
yellow within, of a strong, disagreeable, and penetrating scent, and
very inflammable. This is the true castoreum; it hardens in the air, and
becomes brown, brittle, and friable. The inferior bags contain an
unctuous liquor like honey; the colour of which is a pale yellow, and
its odour somewhat different from the other, being rather weaker and
more disagreeable; it however thickens as it grows older, and at length
becomes about the consistence of tallow. This has also its particular
use in medicine, but it is not so valuable as the true castoreum.

The ingenuity of these creatures in building their cabbins, and in
providing for their subsistence, is truly wonderful. When they are about
to chuse themselves a habitation, they assemble in companies sometimes
of two or three hundred, and after mature deliberation fix on a place
where plenty of provisions, and all necessaries are to be found. Their
houses are always situated in the water, and when they can find neither
lake nor pond adjacent, they endeavour to supply the defect by stopping
the current of some brook or small river, by means of a causeway or dam.
For this purpose they set about felling of trees, and they take care to
chuse out those that grow above the place where they intend to build,
that they might swim down with the current. Having fixed on those that
are proper, three or four beavers placing themselves round a large one,
find means with their strong teeth to bring it down. They also prudently
contrive that it shall fall towards the water, that they may have the
less way to carry it. After they have by a continuance of the same
labour and industry, cut it into proper lengths, they roll these into
the water, and navigate them towards the place where they are to be
employed. Without entering more minutely into the measures they pursue
in the construction of their dams, I shall only remark, that having
prepared a kind of mortar with their feet, and laid it on with their
tails, which they had before made use of to transport it to the place
where it is requisite, they construct them with as much solidity and
regularity as the most experienced workmen could do. The formation of
their cabins is no less amazing. These are either built on piles in the
middle of the small lakes they have thus formed, on the bank of a river,
or at the extremity of some point of land that advances into a lake. The
figure of them is round or oval, and they are fashioned with an
ingenuity equal to their dams. Two thirds of the edifice stands above
the water, and this part is sufficiently capacious to contain eight or
ten inhabitants. Each beaver has his place, assigned him, the floor of
which he curiously strews with leaves, or small branches of the pine
tree, so as to render it clean and comfortable; and their cabbins are
all situated so contiguous to each other, as to allow of an easy
communication. The winter never surprizes these animals before their
business is completed; for by the latter end of September their houses
are finished, and their stock of provisions are generally laid in. These
consist of small pieces of wood whose texture is soft, such as the
poplar, the aspin, or willow, &c. which they lay up in piles, and
dispose of in such manner as to preserve their moisture. Was I to
enumerate every instance of sagacity that is to be discovered in these
animals, they would fill a volume, and prove not only entertaining but
instructive.

The OTTER. This creature also is amphibious, and greatly resembles a
beaver, but is very different from it in many respects. Its body is
nearly as long as a beaver’s, but considerably less in all its parts.
The muzzle, eyes, and the form of the head are nearly the same, but the
teeth are very unlike, for the otter wants the large incisors or nippers
that a beaver has; instead of these, all his teeth, without any
distinction, are shaped like those of a dog or wolf. The hair also of
the former is not half so long as that belonging to the latter, nor is
the colour of it exactly the same, for the hair of an otter under the
neck, stomach, and belly, is more greyish than that of a beaver, and in
many other respects it likewise varies. This animal, which is met with
in most parts of the world, but in much greater numbers in North
America, is very mischievous, and when he is closely pursued, will not
only attack dogs but men. It generally feeds upon fish, especially in
the summer, but in the winter is contented with the bark of trees, or
the produce of the fields. Its flesh both tastes and smells of fish, and
is not wholsome food, though it is sometimes eaten through necessity.

The MINK is of the otter kind, and subsists in the same manner. In shape
and size it resembles a pole-cat, being equally long and slender. Its
skin is blacker than that of an otter, or almost any other creature; “as
black as a mink,” being a proverbial expression in America; it is not
however so valuable, though this greatly depends on the season in which
it is taken. Its tail is round like that of a snake, but growing
flattish towards the end, and is entirely without hair. An agreeable
musky scent exhales from its body; and it is met with near the sources
of rivers on whose banks it chiefly lives.


                             OF THE BIRDS.

The Eagle, the Hawk, the Night Hawk, the Fish Hawk, the Whipperwill, the
Raven, the Crow, the Owl, Parrots, the Pelican, the Crane, the Stork,
the Cormorant, the Heron, the Swan, the Goose, Ducks, Teal, the Loon,
the Water-Hen, the Turkey, the Heath Cock, the Partridge, the Quail,
Pigeons, the Snipe, Larks, the Woodpecker, the Cuckoo, the Blue Jay, the
Swallow, the Wakon Bird, the Black Bird, the Red Bird, the Thrush, the
Whetsaw, the Nightingale, the King Bird, the Robin, the Wren, and the
Humming Bird.


The EAGLE. There are only two sorts of eagles in these parts, the bald
and the grey, which are much the same in size, and similar to the shape
of those of other countries.

The NIGHT HAWK. This Bird is of the hawk species, its bill being
crooked, its wings formed for swiftness, and its shape nearly like that
of the common hawk; but in size it is considerably less, and in colour
rather darker. It is scarcely ever seen but in the evening, when, at the
approach of twilight, it flies about, and darts itself in wanton gambols
at the head of the belated traveller. Before a thunder-shower these
birds are seen at an amazing height in the air assembled together in
great numbers, as swallows are observed to do on the same occasion.

The WHIPPERWILL, or, as it is termed by the Indians, the Muckawiss. This
extraordinary bird is somewhat like the last-mentioned in its shape and
colour, only it has some whitish stripes across the wings, and like that
is seldom ever seen till after sun-set. It also is never met with but
during the spring and summer months. As soon as the Indians are informed
by its notes of its return, they conclude that the frost is entirely
gone, in which they are seldom deceived; and on receiving this assurance
of milder weather, begin to sow their corn. It acquires its name by the
noise it makes, which to the people of the colonies sounds like the name
they give it, Whipper-will; to an Indian ear Muck-a-wiss. The words, it
is true, are not alike, but in this manner they strike the imagination
of each; and the circumstance is a proof that the same sounds, if they
are not rendered certain by being reduced to the rules of orthography,
might convey different ideas to different people. As soon as night comes
on, these birds will place themselves on the fences, stumps, or stones
that lie near some house, and repeat their melancholy notes without any
variation till midnight. The Indians, and some of the inhabitants of the
back settlements, think if this bird perches upon any house, that it
betokens some mishap to the inhabitants of it.

The FISH HAWK greatly resembles the latter in its shape, and receives
his name from his food, which is generally fish; it skims over the lakes
and rivers, and sometimes seems to lie expanded on the water, as he
hovers so close to it, and having by some attractive power drawn the
fish within its reach, darts suddenly upon them. The charm it makes use
of is supposed to be an oil contained in a small bag in the body, and
which nature has by some means or other supplied him with the power of
using for this purpose; it is however very certain that any bait touched
with a drop of the oil collected from this bird is an irresistible lure
for all sorts of fish, and insures the angler great success.

The OWL. The only sort of owls that is found on the banks of the
Mississippi is extremely beautiful in its plumage, being of a fine deep
yellow or gold colour, pleasingly shaded and spotted.

The CRANE. There is a kind of crane in these parts, which is called by
Father Hennepin a pelican, that is about the size of the European crane,
of a greyish colour, and with long legs; but this species differs from
all others in its bill, which is about twelve inches long, and one inch
and half broad, of which breadth it continues to the end, where it is
blunted, and round like a paddle; its tongue is of the same length.

DUCKS. Among a variety of wild ducks, the different species of which
amount to upwards of twenty, I shall confine my description to one sort,
that is, the wood duck, or, as the French term it, Canard branchus. This
fowl receives its name from its frequenting the woods, and perching on
the branches of trees, which no other kind of water fowl (a
characteristic that this still preserves) is known to do. It is nearly
of a size with other ducks; its plumage is beautifully variegated, and
very brilliant. The flesh of it also, as it feeds but little on fish, is
finely flavoured, and much superior to any other sort.

The TEAL. I have already remarked in my Journal, that the teal found on
the Fox River, and the head branches of the Mississippi, are perhaps not
to be equalled for the fatness and delicacy of their flesh by any other
in the world. In colour, shape, and size they are very little different
from those found in other countries.

The LOON is a water fowl, somewhat less than a teal, and is a species of
the dobchick. Its wings are short, and its legs and feet large in
proportion to the body; the colour of it is a dark brown, nearly
approaching to black; and as it feeds only on fish, the flesh of it is
very ill-flavoured. These birds are exceedingly nimble and expert at
diving, so that it is almost impossible for one person to shoot them, as
they will dextrously avoid the shot by diving before they reach them; so
that it requires three persons to kill one of them, and this can only be
done the moment it raises his head out of the water as it returns to the
surface after diving. It however only repays the trouble taken to obtain
it, by the excellent sport it affords.

The PARTRIDGE. There are three sorts of partridges here, the brown, the
red, and the black, the first of which are most esteemed. They are all
much larger than the European partridges, being nearly the size of a hen
pheasant; their head and eyes are also like that bird, and they have all
long tails, which they spread like a fan, but not erect; but contrary to
the custom of those in other countries, they will perch on the branches
of the poplar and black birch, on the buds of which they feed early in
the morning and in the twilight of the evening during the winter months,
when they are easily shot.

The WOOD PIGEON, is nearly the same as ours, and there is such
prodigious quantities of them on the banks of the Mississippi, that they
will sometimes darken the sun for several minutes.

The WOODPECKER. This is a very beautiful bird; there is one sort whose
feathers are a mixture of various colours; and another that is brown all
over the body, except the head and neck, which are of a fine red. As
this bird is supposed to make a greater noise than ordinary at
particular times, it is conjectured his cries then denote rain.

The BLUE JAY. This bird is shaped nearly like the European jay, only
that its tail is longer. On the top of its head is a crest of blue
feathers, which is raised or let down at pleasure. The lower part of the
neck behind, and the back, are of a purplish colour, and the upper sides
of the wings and tail, as well as the lower part of the back and rump,
are of a fine blue; the extremities of the wings are blackish, faintly
tinctured with dark blue on the edges, whilst the other parts of the
wing are barred across with black in an elegant manner. Upon the whole
this bird can scarcely be exceeded in beauty by any of the winged
inhabitants of this or other climates. It has the same jetting motion
that jays generally have, and its cry is far more pleasing.

The WAKON BIRD, as it is termed by the Indians, appears to be of the
same species as the birds of paradise. The name they have given it is
expressive of its superior excellence, and the veneration they have for
it; the wakon bird being in their language the bird of the Great Spirit.
It is nearly the size of a swallow, of a brown colour, shaded about the
neck with a bright green; the wings are of a darker brown than the body;
its tail is composed of four or five feathers, which are three times as
long as its body, and which are beautifully shaded with green and
purple. It carries this fine length of plumage in the same manner as a
peacock does, but it is not known whether it ever raises it into the
erect position that bird sometimes does. I never saw any of these birds
in the colonies, but the Naudowessie Indians caught several of them when
I was in their country, and seemed to treat them as if they were of a
superior rank to any other of the feathered race.

The BLACK BIRD. There are three sorts of birds in North America that
bear this name; the first is the common, or as it is there termed, the
crow blackbird, which is quite black, and of the same size and shape of
those in Europe, but it has not that melody in its notes which they
have. In the month of September this sort fly in large flights, and do
great mischief to the Indian corn, which is at that time just ripe. The
second sort is the red-wing, which is rather smaller than the first
species, but like that it is black all over its body, except on the
lower rim of the wings, where it is of a fine bright full scarlet. It
builds its nest, and chiefly resorts among the small bushes that grow in
meadows and low swampy places. It whistles a few notes, but is not equal
in its song to the European blackbird. The third sort is of the same
size as the latter, and is jet black like that, but all the upper part
of the wing, just below the back, is of a fine clear white; as if nature
intended to diversify the species, and to atone for the want of a
melodious pipe by the beauty of its plumage; for this also is deficient
in its musical powers. The beaks of every sort are of a full yellow, and
the females of each of a rusty black like the European.

The RED BIRD is about the size of a sparrow, but with a long tail, and
is all over of a bright vermilion colour. I saw many of them about the
Ottawaw Lakes, but I could not learn that they sung. I also observed in
some other parts, a bird of much the same make, that was entirely of a
fine yellow.

The WHETSAW is of the cuckoo kind, being like that, a solitary bird, and
scarcely ever seen. In the summer months it is heard in the groves,
where it makes a noise like the filing of a saw; from which it receives
its name.

The KING BIRD is like a swallow, and seems to be of the same species as
the black martin or swift. It is called the King Bird because it is able
to master almost every bird that flies. I have often seen it bring down
a hawk.

The HUMMING BIRD. This beautiful bird, which is the smallest of the
feathered inhabitants of the air, is about the third part the size of a
wren, and is shaped extremely like it. Its legs, which are about an inch
long, appear like two small needles, and its body is proportionable to
them. But its plumage exceeds description. On its head it has a small
tuft of a jetty shining black; the breast of it is red, the belly white,
the back, wings, and tail of the finest pale green; and small specks of
gold are scattered with inexpressible grace over the whole: besides
this, an almost imperceptible down softens the colours, and produces the
most pleasing shades. With its bill, which is of the same diminutive
size as the other parts of its body, it extracts from the flowers a
moisture which is its nourishment; over these it hovers like a bee, but
never lights on them, moving at the same time its wings with such
velocity that the motion of them is imperceptible; notwithstanding which
they make a humming noise, from whence it receives its name.


  _Of the_ FISHES _which are found in the waters of the Mississippi_.

I have already given a description of those that are taken in the great
lakes.


The Sturgeon, the Pout or Cat Fish, the Pike, the Carp, and the Chub.


The STURGEON. The fresh water sturgeon is shaped in no other respect
like those taken near the sea, except in the formation of its head and
tail; which are fashioned in the same manner, but the body is not so
angulated, nor are there so many horny scales about it as on the latter.
Its length is generally about two feet and a half or three feet long,
but in circumference not proportionable, being a slender fish. The flesh
is exceedingly delicate and finely flavoured; I caught some in the head
waters of the river St. Croix that far exceeded trout. The manner of
taking them is by watching them as they lie under the banks in a clear
stream, and darting at them with a fish-spear; for they will not take a
bait. There is also in the Mississippi, and there only, another sort
than the species I have described, which is similar to it in every
respect, except that the upper jaw extends fourteen or fifteen inches
beyond the under; this extensive jaw, which is of a gristly substance,
is three inches and half broad, and continues of that breadth, somewhat
in the shape of an oar, to the end, which is flat. The flesh of this
fish, however, is not to be compared with the other sort, and is not so
much esteemed even by the Indians.

The CAT FISH. This fish is about eighteen inches long; of a brownish
colour and without scales. It has a large round head, from whence it
receives its name, on different parts of which grow three or four strong
sharp horns about two inches long. Its fins are also very bony and
strong, and without great care will pierce the hands of those who take
them. It weighs commonly about five or six pounds; the flesh of it is
excessively fat and luscious, and greatly resembles that of an eel in
its flavour.

The CARP and CHUB are much the same as those in England, and nearly
about the same in size.


                              OF SERPENTS.

The Rattle Snake, the Long Black Snake, the Wall or House Adder, the
Striped or Garter Snake, the Water Snake, the Hissing Snake, the Green
Snake, the Thorn-tail Snake, the Speckled Snake, the Ring Snake, the
Two-headed Snake.


The RATTLE SNAKE. There appears to be two species of this reptile; one
of which is commonly termed the Black, and the other the Yellow; and of
these the latter is generally considered as the largest. At their full
growth they are upwards of five feet long, and the middle part of the
body at which it is of the greatest bulk, measures about nine inches
round. From that part it gradually decreases both towards the head and
the tail. The neck is proportionably very small, and the head broad and
depressed. These are of a light brown colour, the iris of the eye red,
and all the upper part of the body brown, mixed with a ruddy yellow, and
chequered with many regular lines of a deep black, gradually shading
towards a gold colour. In short the whole of this dangerous reptile is
very beautiful, and could it be viewed with less terror, such a
variegated arrangement of colours would be extremely pleasing. But these
are only to be seen in their highest perfection at the time this
creature is animated by resentment; then every tint rushes from its
subcutaneous recess, and gives the surface of the skin a deeper stain.
The belly is of a palish blue, which grows fuller as it approaches the
sides, and is at length intermixed with the colour of the upper part.
The rattle at its tail, from which it receives its name, is composed of
a firm, dry, callous, or horny substance of a light brown, and consists
of a number of cells which articulate one within another like joints;
and which increase every year and make known the age of the creature.
These articulations being very loose, the included points strike against
the inner surface of the concave parts or rings into which they are
admitted, and as the snake vibrates or shakes its tail, makes a rattling
noise. This alarm it always gives when it is apprehensive of danger; and
in an instant after forms itself into a spiral wreath, in the centre of
which appears the head erect, and breathing forth vengeance against
either man or beast that shall dare to come near it. In this attitude he
awaits the approach of his enemies, rattling his tail as he sees or
hears them coming on. By this timely intimation, which heaven seems to
have provided as a means to counteract the mischief this venomous
reptile would otherwise be the perpetrator of, the unwary traveller is
apprized of his danger, and has an opportunity of avoiding it. It is
however to be observed, that it never acts offensively; it neither
pursues or flies from any thing that approaches it, but lies in the
position described, rattling his tail as if reluctant to hurt. The teeth
with which this serpent effects his poisonous purposes are not those he
makes use of on ordinary occasions, they are only two in number, very
small and sharp pointed, and fixed in a sinewy substance that lies near
the extremity of the upper jaw, resembling the claws of a cat; at the
root of each of these, which might be extended, contracted, or entirely
hidden, as need requires, are two small bladders which nature has so
constructed, that at the same instant an incision is made by the teeth,
a drop of a greenish poisonous liquid enters the wound, and taints with
its destructive quality the whole mass of blood. In a moment the
unfortunate victim of its wrath feels a chilly tremor run through all
his frame; a swelling immediately begins on the spot where the teeth had
entered, which spreads by degrees over the whole body, and produces on
every part of the skin the variegated hue of the snake. The bite of this
reptile is more or less venomous according to the season of the year in
which it is given. In the dog-days, it often proves instantly mortal,
and especially if the wound is made among the sinews situated in the
back-part of the leg above the heel; but in the spring, in autumn, or
during a cool day which might happen in the summer, its bad effects are
to be prevented by the immediate application of proper remedies; and
these Providence has bounteously supplied, by causing the Rattle Snake
Plantain, an approved antidote to the poison of this creature, to grow
in great profusion where-ever they are to be met with. There are
likewise several other remedies besides this, for the venom of its bite.
A decoction made of the buds or bark of the white ash taken internally
prevents its pernicious effects. Salt is a newly discovered remedy, and
if applied immediately to the part, or the wound be washed with brine, a
cure might be assured. The fat of the reptile also rubbed on it is
frequently found to be very efficacious. But though the lives of the
persons who have been bitten might be preserved by these, and their
health in some degree restored, yet they annually experience a slight
return of the dreadful symptoms about the time they received the
instillation. However remarkable it may appear it is certain, that
though the venom of this creature affects in a greater or less degree
all animated nature, the hog is an exception to the rule, as that animal
will readily destroy them without dreading their poisonous fangs, and
fatten on their flesh. It has been often observed, and I can confirm the
observation, that the Rattle Snake is charmed with any harmonious
sounds, whether vocal or instrumental; I have many times seen them even
when they have been enraged, place themselves in a listening posture,
and continue immoveably attentive and susceptible of delight all the
time the musick has lasted. I should have remarked, that when the Rattle
Snake bites, it drops its under jaw, and holding the upper jaw erect,
throws itself in a curve line, with great force, and as quick as
lightning, on the object of its resentment. In a moment after, it
returns again to its defensive posture, having disengaged its teeth from
the wound with great celerity, by means of the position in which it had
placed its head when it made the attack. It never extends itself to a
greater distance than half its length will reach, and though it
sometimes repeats the blow two or three times, it as often returns with
a sudden rebound to its former state. The Black Rattle Snake differs in
no other respect from the yellow, than in being rather smaller, and in
the variegation of its colours, which are exactly reversed: one is black
where the other is yellow, and vice versa. They are equally venomous. It
is not known how these creatures engender; I have often found the eggs
of several other species of the snake, but notwithstanding no one has
taken more pains to acquire a perfect knowledge of every property of
these reptiles than myself, I never could discover the manner in which
they bring forth their young. I once killed a female that had seventy
young ones in its belly, but these were perfectly formed, and I saw them
just before retire to the mouth of their mother, as a place of security,
on my approach. The gall of this serpent, mixed with chalk, are formed
into little balls, and exported from America, for medicinal purposes.
They are of the nature of Gascoign’s powders, and are an excellent
remedy for complaints incident to children. The flesh of the snake also
dried, and made into broth, is much more nutritive than that of vipers,
and very efficacious against consumptions.

The LONG BLACK SNAKE. These are also of two sorts, both of which are
exactly similar in shape and size, only the belly of one is a light red,
the other a faint blue; all the upper parts of their bodies are black
and scaly. They are in general from six to eight feet in length, and
carry their heads, as they crawl along, about a foot and an half from
the ground. They easily climb the highest trees in pursuit of birds and
squirrels, which are their chief food; and these, it is said, they charm
by their looks, and render incapable of escaping from them. Their
appearance carries terror with it to those who are unacquainted with
their inability to hurt, but they are perfectly inoffensive and free
from venom.

The STRIPED or GARTER SNAKE is exactly the same as that species found in
other climates.

The WATER SNAKE is much like the Rattle Snake in shape and size, but is
not endowed with the same venomous powers, being quite harmless.

The HISSING SNAKE I have already particularly described, when I treated,
in my Journal, of Lake Erie.

The GREEN SNAKE is about a foot and an half long, and in colour so near
to grass and herbs, that it cannot be discovered as it lies on the
ground; happily however it is free from venom, otherwise it would do an
infinite deal of mischief, as those who pass through the meadows, not
being able to perceive it, are deprived of the power of avoiding it.

The THORN-TAIL SNAKE. This reptile is found in many parts of America,
but it is very seldom to be seen. It is of a middle size, and receives
its name from a thorn-like dart in its tail, with which it is said to
inflict a mortal wound.

The SPECKLED SNAKE is an aqueous reptile about two feet and an half in
length, but without venom. Its skin, which is brown and white with some
spots of yellow in it, is used by the Americans as a cover for the
handles of whips, and it renders them very pleasing to the sight.

The RING SNAKE is about twelve inches long; the body of it is entirely
black, except a yellow ring which it has about its neck, and which
appears like a narrow piece of riband tied around it. This odd reptile
is frequently found in the bark of trees, and among old logs.

The TWO-HEADED SNAKE. The only snake of this kind that was ever seen in
America, was found about the year 1762, near Lake Champlain, by Mr.
Park, a gentleman of New England, and made a present to lord Amherst. It
was about a foot long, and in shape like the common snake, but it was
furnished with two heads exactly similar, which united at the neck.
Whether this was a distinct species of snakes, and was able to propagate
its likeness, or whether it was an accidental formation, I know not.

The TORTOISE or LAND TURTLE. The shape of this creature is so well known
that it is unnecessary to describe it. There are seven or eight sorts of
them in America, some of which are beautifully variegated, even beyond
description. The shells of many have spots of red, green, and yellow in
them, and the chequer work is composed of small squares, curiously
disposed. The most beautiful sort of these creatures are the smallest,
and the bite of them is said to be venomous.


                              LIZARDS, &c.

Though there are numerous kinds of this class of the animal creation in
the country I treat of, I shall only take notice of two of them; which
are termed the Swift and the Slow Lizard.

The SWIFT LIZARD is about six inches long, and has four legs and a tail.
Its body, which is blue, is prettily striped with dark lines shaded with
yellow; but the end of the tail is totally blue. It is so remarkably
agile that in an instant it is out of sight, nor can its movement be
perceived by the quickest eye: so that it might more justly be said to
vanish, than to run away. This species are supposed to poison those they
bite, but are not dangerous, as they never attack persons that approach
them, chusing rather to get suddenly out of their reach.

The SLOW LIZARD is of the same shape as the Swift, but its colour is
brown; it is moreover of an opposite disposition, being altogether as
slow in its movements as the other is swift. It is remarkable that these
lizards are extremely brittle, and will break off near the tail as
easily as an icicle.

Among the reptiles of North America there is a species of the toad
termed the TREE TOAD, which is nearly of the same shape as the common
sort, but smaller and with longer claws. It is usually found on trees,
sticking close to the bark, or lying in the crevices of it; and so
nearly does it resemble the colour of the tree to which it cleaves, that
it is with difficulty distinguished from it. These creatures are only
heard during the twilight of the morning and evening, or just before and
after a shower of rain, when they make a croaking noise somewhat
shriller than that of a frog, which might be heard to a great distance.
They infest the woods in such numbers, that their responsive notes at
these times make the air resound. It is only a summer animal, and never
to be found during the winter.


                                INSECTS.

The interior parts of North America abound with nearly the same insects
as are met with in the same parallels of latitude; and the species of
them are so numerous and diversified that even a succinct description of
the whole of them would fill a volume; I shall therefore confine myself
to a few, which I believe are almost peculiar to this country; the Silk
Worm, the Tobacco Worm, the Bee, the Lightning Bug, the Water Bug, and
the Horned Bug.

The SILK WORM is nearly the same as those of France and Italy, but will
not produce the same quantity of silk.

The TOBACCO WORM is a caterpillar of the size and figure of a silk worm,
it is of a fine sea-green colour, on its rump it has a sting or horn
near a quarter of an inch long.

The BEES, in America, principally lodge their honey in the earth to
secure it from the ravages of the bears, who are remarkably fond of it.

The LIGHTNING BUG or FIRE FLY is about the size of a bee, but it is of
the beetle kind, having like that insect two pair of wings, the upper of
which are of a firm texture, to defend it from danger. When it flies,
and the wings are expanded, there is under these a kind of coat,
constructed also like wings, which is luminous; and as the insect passes
on, causes all the hinder part of its body to appear like a bright fiery
coal. Having placed one of them on your hand, the under part only
shines, and throws the light on the space beneath; but as soon as it
spreads its upper wings to fly away, the whole body which lies behind
them appears illuminated all around. The light it gives is not
constantly of the same magnitude, even when it flies; but seems to
depend on the expansion or contraction of the luminous coat or wings,
and is very different from that emitted in a dark night by dry wood or
some kinds of fish, it having much more the appearance of real fire.
They seem to be sensible of the power they are possessed of, and to know
the most suitable time for exerting it, as in a very dark night they are
much more numerous than at any other time. They are only seen during the
summer months of June, July, and August, and then at no other time but
in the night. Whether from their colour, which is a dusky brown, they
are not then discernible, or from their retiring to holes and crevices,
I know not, but they are never to be discovered in the day. They chiefly
are seen in low swampy land, and appear like innumerable transient
gleams of light. In dark nights when there is much lightning, without
rain, they seem as if they wished either to imitate or assist the
flashes; for during the intervals, they are uncommonly agile, and
endeavour to throw out every ray they can collect. Notwithstanding this
effulgent appearance, these insects are perfectly harmless; you may
permit them to crawl upon your hand, when five or six, if they freely
exhibit their glow together, will enable you to read almost the smallest
print.

The WATER BUG is of a brown colour, about the size of a pea, and in
shape nearly oval: it has many legs, by means of which it passes over
the surface of the water with such incredible swiftness that it seems to
slide or dart itself along.

The HORNED BUG, or, as it is sometimes termed, the STAG BEETLE, is of a
dusky brown colour nearly approaching to black, about an inch and an
half long, and half an inch broad. It has two large horns, which grow on
each side of the head, and meet horizontally, and with these it pinches
very hard; they are branched like those of a stag, from whence it
receives its name. They fly about in the evening, and prove very
troublesome to those who are in the fields at that time.

I must not omit that the LOCUST is a septennial insect, as they are only
seen, a small number of stragglers excepted, every seven years, when
they infest these parts and the interior colonies in large swarms, and
do a great deal of mischief. The years when they thus arrive are
denominated the locust years.




                              CHAPTER XIX.

          _Of the_ TREES, SHRUBS, ROOTS, HERBS, FLOWERS _&c._


I SHALL here observe the same method that I have pursued in the
preceding chapter, and having given a list of the trees, &c. which are
natives of the interior parts of North America, particularize such only
as differ from the produce of other countries, or, being little known,
have not been described.


                               OF TREES.

The Oak, the Pine Tree, the Maple, the Ash, the Hemlock, the Bass or
White Wood, the Cedar, the Elm, the Birch, the Fir, the Locust Tree, the
Poplar, the Wickopic or Suckwic, the Spruce, the Hornbeam, and the
Button Wood Tree.


The OAK. There are several sorts of oaks in these parts; the black, the
white, the red, the yellow, the grey, the swamp oak, and the chesnut
oak: the five former vary but little in their external appearance, the
shape of the leaves, and the colour of the bark being so much alike,
that they are scarcely distinguishable; but the body of the tree when
sawed discovers the variation, which chiefly consists in the colour of
the wood, they being all very hard and proper for building. The swamp
oak differs materially from the others both in the shape of the leaf,
which is smaller, and in the bark, which is smoother; and likewise as it
grows only in a moist gravelly soil. It is esteemed the toughest of all
woods, being so strong yet pliable, that it is often made use of instead
of whalebone, and is equally serviceable. The chesnut oak also is
greatly different from the others, particularly in the shape of the
leaf, which much resembles that of the chesnut-tree, and for this reason
it is so denominated. It is neither so strong as the former species, or
so tough as the latter, but is of a nature proper to be split into rails
for fences, in which state it will endure a considerable time.

The PINE TREE. That species of the pine tree peculiar to this part of
the continent is the white, the quality of which I need not describe, as
the timber of it is so well known under the name of deals. It grows here
in great plenty, to an amazing height and size, and yields an excellent
turpentine, though not in such quantities as those in the northern parts
of Europe.

The MAPLE. Of this tree there are two sorts, the hard and the soft, both
of which yield a luscious juice, from which the Indians by boiling make
very good sugar. The sap of the former is much richer and sweeter than
the latter, but the soft produces a greater quantity. The wood of the
hard maple is very beautifully veined and curled, and when wrought into
cabinets, tables, gunstocks, &c. is greatly valued. That of the soft
sort differs in its texture, wanting the variegated grain of the hard;
it also grows more strait and free from branches, and is more easily
split. It likewise may be distinguished from the hard, as this grows in
meadows and low-lands, that on the hills and up-lands. The leaves are
shaped alike, but those of the soft maple are much the largest, and of a
deeper green.

The ASH. There are several sorts of this tree in these parts, but that
to which I shall confine my description, is the yellow ash, which is
only found near the head branches of the Mississippi. This tree grows to
an amazing height, and the body of it is so firm and sound, that the
French traders who go into that country from Louisiana to purchase furs
make of them periaguays; this they do by excavating them by fire, and
when they are completed, convey in them the produce of their trade to
New Orleans, where they find a good market both for their vessels and
cargoes. The wood of this tree greatly resembles that of the common ash,
but it might be distinguished from any other tree by its bark; the ross
or outside bark being near eight inches thick, and indented with furrows
more than six inches deep, which make those that are arrived to a great
bulk appear uncommonly rough; and by this peculiarity they may be
readily known. The rind or inside bark is of the same thickness as that
of other trees, but its colour is a fine bright yellow; insomuch that if
it is but slightly handled, it will leave a stain on the fingers, which
cannot easily be washed away; and if in the spring you peel off the
bark, and touch the sap, which then rises between that and the body of
the tree, it will leave so deep a tincture that it will require three or
four days to wear it off. Many useful qualities belonging to this tree I
doubt not will be discovered in time, besides its proving a valuable
acquisition to the dyer.

The HEMLOCK TREE grows in every part of America in a greater or less
degree. It is an ever-green of a very large growth, and has leaves
somewhat like that of the yew; it is however quite useless, and only an
incumbrance to the ground, the wood being of a very coarse grain, and
full of wind-shakes or cracks.

The BASS or WHITE WOOD is a tree of a middling size, and the whitest and
softest wood that grows; when quite dry it swims on the water like a
cork: in the settlements the turners make of it bowls, trenchers, and
dishes, which wear smooth, and will last a long time; but when applied
to any other purpose it is far from durable.

The WICKOPICK or SUCKWICK appears to be a species of the white wood, and
is distinguished from it by a peculiar quality in the bark, which when
pounded and moistened with a little water, instantly becomes a matter of
the consistence and nature of size. With this the Indians pay their
canoes, and it greatly exceeds pitch or any other material usually
appropriated to that purpose; for besides its adhesive quality, it is of
so oily a nature, that the water cannot penetrate through it, and its
repelling power abates not for a considerable time.

The BUTTON WOOD is a tree of the largest size, and might be
distinguished by its bark, which is quite smooth and prettily mottled.
The wood is very proper for the use of cabinet-makers. It is covered
with small hard burs which spring from the branches, that appear not
unlike buttons, and from these I believe it receives its name.


                               NUT TREES.

The Butter or Oil Nut, the Walnut, the Hazle Nut, the Beech Nut, the
Pecan Nut, the Chesnut, the Hickory.


The BUTTER or OIL NUT. As no mention has been made by any authors of
this nut, I shall be the more particular in my account of it. The tree
grows in meadows where the soil is rich and warm. The body of it seldom
exceeds a yard in circumference, is full of branches, the twigs of which
are short and blunt, and its leaves resemble those of the walnut. The
nut has a shell like that fruit, which when ripe is more furrowed, and
more easily cracked; it is also much longer and larger than a walnut,
and contains a greater quantity of kernel, which is very oily, and of a
rich agreeable flavour. I am persuaded that a much purer oil than that
of olives might be extracted from this nut. The inside bark of this tree
dyes a good purple; and it is said, varies in its shade, being either
darker or lighter according to the month in which it is gathered.

The BEECH NUT. Though this tree grows exactly like that of the same name
in Europe, yet it produces nuts equally as good as chesnuts; on which
bears, martins, squirrels, partridges, turkies, and many other beasts
and birds feed. The nut is contained, whilst growing, in an outside case
like that of a chesnut, but not so prickly; and the coat of the inside
shell is also smooth like that; only its form is nearly triangular. Vast
quantities of them lie scattered about in the woods, and supply with
food great numbers of the creatures just mentioned. The leaves, which
are white, continue on the trees during the whole winter. A decoction
made of them is a certain and expeditious cure for wounds which arise
from burning or scalding, as well as a restorative for those members
that are nipped by the frost.

The PECAN NUT is somewhat of the walnut kind, but rather smaller than a
walnut, being about the size of a middling acorn, and of an oval form;
the shell is easily cracked, and the kernel shaped like that of a
walnut. This tree grows chiefly near the Illinois river.

The HICKORY is also of the walnut kind, and bears a fruit nearly like
that tree. There are several sorts of them, which vary only in the
colour of the wood. Being of a very tough nature, the wood is generally
used for the handles of axes, &c. It is also very good fire-wood, and as
it burns an excellent sugar distills from it.


                              FRUIT TREES.

I need not to observe that these are all the spontaneous productions of
nature, which have never received the advantages of ingrafting,
transplanting, or manuring.

The Vine, the Mulberry Tree, the Crab Apple Tree, the Plum Tree, the
Cherry Tree, and the Sweet Gum Tree.


The VINE is very common here, and of three kinds; the first sort hardly
deserves the name of a grape; the second much resembles the Burgundy
grape, and if exposed to the sun a good wine might be made from them.
The third sort resembles Zant currants, which are so frequently used in
cakes, &c. in England, and if proper care was taken of them, would be
equal, if not superior, to those of that country.

The MULBERRY TREE is of two kinds, red and white, and nearly of the same
size of those of France and Italy, and grow in such plenty, as to feed
any quantity of silk worms.

The CRAB APPLE TREE bears a fruit that is much larger and better
flavoured than those of Europe.

The PLUM TREE. There are two sorts of plums in this country, one a large
sort of a purple cast on one side, and red on the reverse, the second
totally green, and much smaller. Both these are of a good flavour, and
are greatly esteemed by the Indians, whose taste is not refined, but who
are satisfied with the productions of nature in their unimproved state.

The CHERRY TREE. There are three sorts of cherries in this country; the
black, the red, and the sand cherry; the two latter may with more
propriety be ranked among the shrubs, as the bush that bears the sand
cherries almost creeps along the ground, and the other rises not above
eight or ten feet in height; however I shall give an account of them all
in this place. The black cherries are about the size of a currant, and
hang in clusters like grapes; the trees which bear them being very
fruitful, they are generally loaded, but the fruit is not good to eat,
however they give an agreeable flavour to brandy, and turn it to the
colour of claret. The red cherries grow in the greatest profusion, and
hang in bunches like the black sort just described; so that the bushes
which bear them appear at a distance like solid bodies of red matter.
Some people admire this fruit, but they partake of the nature and taste
of alum, leaving a disagreeable roughness in the throat, and being very
astringent. As I have already described the sand cherries, which greatly
exceed the two other sorts both in flavour and size, I shall give no
further description of them. The wood of the black cherry-tree is very
useful, and works well into cabinet ware.

The SWEET GUM TREE or LIQUID AMBER (Copalm) is not only extremely
common, but it affords a balm, the virtues of which are infinite. Its
bark is black and hard, and its wood so tender and supple, that when the
tree is felled, you may draw from the middle of it rods of five or six
feet in length. It cannot be employed in building or furniture, as it
warps continually. Its leaf is indented with five points like a star.
This balm is reckoned by the Indians to be an excellent febrifuge, and
it cures wounds in two or three days.


                                SHRUBS.

The Willow, Shin Wood, Shumack, Sassafras, the Prickly Ash, Moose Wood,
Spoon Wood, Large Elder, Dwarf Elder, Poisonous Elder, Juniper, Shrub
Oak, Sweet Fern, the Laurel, the Witch Hazle, the Myrtle Wax Tree,
Winter Green, the Fever Bush, the Cranberry Bush, the Goosberry Bush,
the Currant Bush, the Whirtle Berry, the Rasberry, the Black Berry, and
the Choak Berry.


The WILLOW. There are several species of the willow, the most remarkable
of which is a small sort that grows on the banks of the Mississippi, and
some other places adjacent. The bark of this shrub supplies the beaver
with its winter food; and where the water has washed the soil from its
roots, they appear to consist of fibres interwoven together like thread,
the colour of which is of an inexpressibly fine scarlet; with this the
Indians tinge many of the ornamental parts of their dress.

SHIN WOOD. This extraordinary shrub grows in the forests, and rising
like a vine, runs near the ground for six or eight feet, and then takes
root again; in the same manner taking root, and springing up
successively, one stalk covers a large space; this proves very
troublesome to the hasty traveller, by striking against his shins, and
entangling his legs; from which it has acquired its name.

The SASSAFRAS is a wood well known for its medicinal qualities. It might
with equal propriety be termed a tree as a shrub, as it sometimes grows
thirty feet high; but in general it does not reach higher than those of
the shrub kind. The leaves, which yield an agreeable fragrance, are
large, and nearly separated into three divisions. It bears a reddish
brown berry of the size and shape of Pimento, and which is sometimes
used in the colonies as a substitute for that spice. The bark or roots
of this tree is infinitely superior to the wood for its use in medicine,
and I am surprized it is so seldom to be met with, as its efficacy is so
much greater.

The PRICKLY ASH is a shrub that sometimes grows to the height of ten or
fifteen feet, and has a leaf exactly resembling that of an ash, but it
receives the epithet to its name from the abundance of short thorns with
which every branch is covered, and which renders it very troublesome to
those who pass through the spot where they grow thick. It also bears a
scarlet berry, which when ripe, has a fiery taste like pepper. The bark
of this tree, particularly the bark of the roots, is highly esteemed by
the natives for its medicinal qualities. I have already mentioned one
instance of its efficacy, and there is no doubt but that the decoction
of it will expeditiously and radically remove all impurities of the
blood.

The MOOSE WOOD grows about four feet high, and is very full of branches;
but what renders it worth notice is its bark, which is of so strong and
pliable a texture, that being peeled off at any season, and twisted,
makes equally as good cordage as hemp.

The SPOON WOOD is a species of the laurel, and the wood when sawed
resembles box wood.

The ELDER, commonly termed the poisonous elder, nearly resembles the
other sorts in its leaves and branches, but it grows much straiter, and
is only found in swamps and moist soils. This shrub is endowed with a
very extraordinary quality, that renders it poisonous to some
constitutions, which it effects if the person only approaches within a
few yards of it, whilst others may even chew the leaves or the rind
without receiving the least detriment from them: the poison however is
not mortal, though it operates very violently on the infected person,
whose body and head swell to an amazing size, and are covered with
eruptions, that at their height resemble the confluent small-pox. As it
grows also in many of the provinces, the inhabitants cure its venom by
drinking saffron tea, and anointing the external parts with a mixture
composed of cream and marsh mallows.

The SHRUB OAK is exactly similar to the oak tree, both in its wood and
leaves, and like that it bears an acorn, but it never rises from the
ground above four or five feet, growing crooked and knotty. It is found
chiefly on a dry gravelly soil.

The WITCH HAZLE grows very bushy, about ten feet high, and is covered
early in May with numerous white blossoms. When this shrub is in bloom,
the Indians esteem it a further indication that the frost is entirely
gone, and that they might sow their corn. It has been said, that it is
possessed of the power of attracting gold or silver, and that twigs of
it are made use of to discover where the veins of these metals lie hid;
but I am apprehensive that this is only a fallacious story, and not to
be depended on; however that supposition has given it the name of Witch
Hazle.

The MYRTLE WAX TREE is a shrub about four or five feet high, the leaves
of which are larger than those of the common myrtle, but they smell
exactly alike. It bears its fruit in bunches like a nosegay, rising from
the same place in various stalks about two inches long: at the end of
each of these is a little nut containing a kernel, which is wholly
covered with a gluey substance, which being boiled in water, swims on
the surface of it, and becomes a kind of green wax; this is more
valuable than bees-wax, being of a more brittle nature, but mixed with
it makes a good candle, which as it burns sends forth an agreeable
scent.

WINTER GREEN. This is an ever-green of the species of the myrtle, and is
found on dry heaths; the flowers of it are white, and in the form of a
rose, but not larger than a silver penny; in the winter it is full of
red berries about the size of a sloe, which are smooth and round; these
are preserved during the severe season by the snow, and are at that time
in the highest perfection. The Indians eat these berries, esteeming them
very balsamic, and invigorating to the stomach. The people inhabiting
the interior colonies steep both the sprigs and berries in beer, and use
it as a diet drink for cleansing the blood from scorbutic disorders.

The FEVER BUSH grows about five or six feet high; its leaf is like that
of a lilach, and it bears a reddish berry of a spicy flavour. The stalks
of it are excessively brittle. A decoction of the buds or wood is an
excellent febrifuge, and from this valuable property it receives its
name. It is an ancient Indian remedy for all inflammatory complaints,
and likewise much esteemed on the same account by the inhabitants of the
interior parts of the colonies.

The CRANBERRY BUSH. Though the fruit of this bush greatly resembles in
size and appearance that of the common sort, which grows on a small vine
in morasses and bogs, yet the bush runs to the height of ten or twelve
feet; but it is very rarely to be met with. As the meadow cranberry,
being of a local growth, and flourishing only in morasses, cannot be
transplanted or cultivated, the former, if removed at a proper season,
would be a valuable acquisition to the garden, and with proper nurture
prove equally as good, if not better.

The CHOAK BERRY. The shrub thus termed by the natives grows about five
or six feet high, and bears a berry about the size of a sloe, of a jet
black, which contains several small seeds within the pulp. The juice of
this fruit, though not of a disagreeable flavour, is extremely tart, and
leaves a roughness in the mouth and throat when eaten, that has gained
it the name of choak berry.


                           ROOTS and PLANTS.

Elecampane, Spikenard, Angelica, Sarsaparilla, Ginsang, Ground Nuts,
Wild Potatoes, Liquorice, Snake Root, Gold Thread, Solomon’s Seal,
Devil’s Bit, Blood Root, Onions, Garlick, Wild Parsnips, Mandrakes,
Hellebore White and Black.

SPIKENARD, vulgarly called in the colonies Petty-Morrell. This plant
appears to be exactly the same as the Asiatick spikenard, so much valued
by the ancients. It grows near the sides of brooks in rocky places, and
its stem, which is about the size of a goose quill, springs up like that
of angelica, reaching about a foot and an half from the ground. It bears
bunches of berries in all respects like those of the elder, only rather
larger. These are of such a balsamic nature, that when infused in
spirits, they make a most palatable and reviving cordial.

SARSAPARILLA. The root of this plant, which is the most estimable part
of it, is about the size of a goose quill, and runs in different
directions, twined and crooked to a great length in the ground; from the
principal stem of it springs many smaller fibres, all of which are tough
and flexible. From the root immediately shoots a stalk about a foot and
an half long, which at the top branches into three stems; each of these
has three leaves, much of the shape and size of a walnut leaf; and from
the fork of each of the three stems grows a bunch of bluish white
flowers, resembling those of the spikenard. The bark of the roots, which
alone should be used in medicine, is of a bitterish flavour, but
aromatic. It is deservedly esteemed for its medicinal virtues, being a
gentle sudorific, and very powerful in attenuating the blood when
impeded by gross humours.

GINSANG is a root that was once supposed to grow only in Korea, from
whence it was usually exported to Japan, and by that means found its way
to Europe; but it has been lately discovered to be also a native of
North America, where it grows to as great perfection and is equally
valuable. Its root is like a small carrot, but not so taper at the end;
it is sometimes divided into two or more branches, in all other respects
it resembles sarsaparilla in its growth. The taste of the root is
bitterish. In the eastern parts of Asia it bears a great price, being
there considered as a panacea, and is the last refuge of the inhabitants
in all disorders. When chewed it certainly is a great strengthener of
the stomach.

GOLD THREAD. This is a plant of the small vine kind, which grows in
swampy places, and lies on the ground. The roots spread themselves just
under the surface of the morass, and are easily drawn up by handfuls.
They resemble a large entangled skain of thread of a fine bright gold
colour; and I am persuaded would yield a beautiful and permanent yellow
dye. It is also greatly esteemed both by the Indians and colonists as a
remedy for any soreness in the mouth, but the taste of it is exquisitely
bitter.

SOLOMON’s SEAL is a plant that grows on the sides of rivers, and in rich
meadow land. It rises in the whole to about three feet high, the stalks
being two feet, when the leaves begin to spread themselves and reach a
foot further. A part in every root has an impression upon it about the
size of a sixpence, which appears as if it was made by a seal, and from
these it receives its name. It is greatly valued on account of its being
a fine purifier of the blood.

DEVIL’s BIT is another wild plant, which grows in the fields, and
receives its name from a print that seems to be made by teeth in the
roots. The Indians say that this was once an universal remedy for every
disorder that human nature is incident to; but some of the evil spirits
envying mankind the possession of so efficacious a medicine gave the
root a bite, which deprived it of a great part of its virtue.

BLOOD ROOT. A sort of plantain that springs out of the ground in six or
seven long rough leaves, the veins of which are red; the root of it is
like a small carrot both in colour and appearance; when broken, the
inside of it is of a deeper color than the outside, and distils several
drops of juice that look like blood. This is a strong emetic, but a very
dangerous one.


                                 HERBS.

Balm, Nettles, Cinque Foil, Eyebright, Sanicle, Plantain, Rattle Snake
Plantain, Poor Robin’s Plantain, Toad Plantain, Maiden Hair, Wild Dock,
Rock Liverwort, Noble Liverwort, Bloodwort, Wild Beans, Ground Ivy,
Water Cresses, Yarrow, May Weed, Gargit, Skunk Cabbage or Poke, Wake
Robin, Betony, Scabious, Mullen, Wild Pease, Mouse Ear, Wild Indigo,
Tobacco, and Cat Mint.


SANICLE has a root which is thick towards the upper part, and full of
small fibres below; the leaves of it are broad, roundish, hard, smooth,
and of a fine shining green; a stalk rises from these to the height of a
foot, which is quite smooth and free from knots, and on the top of it
are several small flowers of a reddish white, shaped like a wild rose. A
tea made of the root is vulnerary and balsamic.

RATTLE SNAKE PLANTAIN. This useful herb is of the plantain kind, and its
leaves, which spread themselves on the ground, are about one inch and an
half wide, and five inches long; from the centre of these arises a small
stalk nearly six inches long, which bears a little white flower; the
root is about the size of a goose quill, and much bent and divided into
several branches. The leaves of this herb are more efficacious than any
other part of it for the bite of the reptile from which it receives its
name; and being chewed and applied immediately to the wound, and some of
the juice swallowed, seldom fails of averting every dangerous symptom.
So convinced are the Indians of the power of this infallible antidote,
that for a trifling bribe of spirituous liquor, they will at any time
permit a rattle snake to drive his fangs into their flesh. It is to be
remarked that during those months in which the bite of these creatures
is most venomous, that this remedy for it is in its greatest perfection,
and most luxuriant in its growth.

POOR ROBIN’s PLANTAIN is of the same species as the last, but more
diminutive in every respect; it receives its name from its size, and the
poor land on which it grows. It is a good medicinal herb, and often
administered with success in fevers and internal weaknesses.

TOAD PLANTAIN resembles the common plantain, only it grows much ranker,
and is thus denominated because toads love to harbour under it.

ROCK LIVERWORT is a sort of liverwort that grows on rocks, and is of the
nature of kelp or moss. It is esteemed as an excellent remedy against
declines.

GARGIT or SKOKE is a large kind of weed, the leaves of which are about
six inches long, and two inches and an half broad; they resemble those
of spinage in their colour and texture, but not in shape. The root is
very large, from which spring different stalks that run eight or ten
feet high, and are full of red berries; these hang in clusters in the
month of September, and are generally called pigeon berries, as those
birds then feed on them. When the leaves first spring from the ground,
after being boiled, they are a nutritious and wholesome vegetable, but
when they are grown nearly to their full size, they acquire a poisonous
quality. The roots applied to the hands or feet of a person afflicted
with a fever, prove a very powerful absorbent.

SKUNK CABBAGE or POKE is an herb that grows in moist and swampy places.
The leaves of it are about a foot long, and six inches broad, nearly
oval, but rather pointed. The roots are composed of great numbers of
fibres, a lotion of which is made use of by the people in the colonies
for the cure of the itch. There issues a strong musky smell from this
herb, something like the animal of the same name before described, and
on that account it is so termed.

WAKE ROBIN is an herb that grows in swampy lands; its root resembles a
small turnip, and if tasted will greatly inflame the tongue, and
immediately convert it from its natural shape into a round hard
substance; in which state it will continue for some time, and during
this no other part of the mouth will be affected. But when dried, it
loses its astringent quality, and becomes beneficial to mankind, for if
grated into cold water, and taken internally, it is very good for all
complaints of the bowels.

WILD INDIGO is an herb of the same species as that from whence indigo is
made in the southern colonies. It grows in one stalk to the height of
five or six inches from the ground, when it divides into many branches,
from which issue a great number of small hard bluish leaves that spread
to a great breadth, and among these it bears a yellow flower; the juice
of it has a very disagreeable scent.

CAT MINT has a woody root, divided into several branches, and it sends
forth a stalk about three feet high; the leaves are like those of the
nettle or betony, and they have a strong smell of mint, with a biting
acrid taste; the flowers grow on the tops of the branches, and are of a
faint purple or whitish colour. It is called cat mint, because it is
said that cats have an antipathy to it, and will not let it grow. It has
nearly the virtues of common mint[1].


                                FLOWERS.

Heart’s Ease, Lilies red and yellow, Pond Lilies, Cowslips, May Flowers,
Jessamine, Honeysuckles, Rock Honeysuckles, Roses red and white, Wild
Hollyhock, Wild Pinks, Golden Rod.


I shall not enter into a minute description of the flowers above
recited, but only just observe, that they much resemble those of the
same name which grow in Europe, and are as beautiful in colour, and as
perfect in odour, as they can be supposed to be in their wild
uncultivated state.


                 FARINACEOUS and LEGUMINOUS ROOTS, &c.

Maize or Indian Corn, Wild Rice, Beans, the Squash, &c.


MAIZE or INDIAN CORN grows from six to ten feet high, on a stalk full of
joints, which is stiff and solid, and when green, abounding with a sweet
juice. The leaves are like those of the reed, about two feet in length,
and three or four inches broad. The flowers, which are produced at some
distance from the fruit on the same plant, grow like the ears of oats,
and are sometimes white, yellow, or of a purple colour. The seeds are as
large as peas, and like them quite naked and smooth, but of a roundish
surface, rather compressed. One spike generally consists of about six
hundred grains, which are placed closely together in rows to the number
of eight or ten, and sometimes twelve. This corn is very wholesome, easy
of digestion, and yields as good nourishment as any other sort. After
the Indians have reduced it into meal by pounding it, they make cakes of
it and bake them before the fire. I have already mentioned that some
nations eat it in cakes before it is ripe, in which state it is very
agreeable to the palate and extremely nutritive.

[Illustration:

  The TOBACCO PLANT

  _Published Nov. 1^{st}. 1779_
]

WILD RICE. This grain, which grows in the greatest plenty throughout the
interior parts of North America, is the most valuable of all the
spontaneous productions of that country. Exclusive of its utility, as a
supply of food for those of the human species who inhabit this part of
the continent, and obtained without any other trouble than that of
gathering it in, the sweetness and nutritious quality of it attracts an
infinite number of wild fowl of every kind, which flock from distant
climes to enjoy this rare repast; and by it become inexpressibly fat and
delicious. In future periods it will be of great service to the infant
colonies, as it will afford them a present support, until in the course
of cultivation other supplies may be produced; whereas in those realms
which are not furnished with this bounteous gift of nature, even if the
climate is temperate and the soil good, the first settlers are often
exposed to great hardships from the want of an immediate resource for
necessary food. This useful grain grows in the water where it is about
two feet deep, and where it finds a rich muddy soil. The stalks of it,
and the branches or ears that bear the seed, resemble oats both in their
appearance and manner of growing. The stalks are full of joints, and
rise more than eight feet above the water. The natives gather the grain
in the following manner: nearly about the time that it begins to turn
from its milky state and to ripen, they run their canoes into the midst
of it, and tying bunches of it together just below the ears with bark,
leave it in this situation three or four weeks longer, till it is
perfectly ripe. About the latter end of September they return to the
river, when each family having its separate allotment, and being able to
distinguish their own property by the manner of fastening the sheaves,
gather in the portion that belongs to them. This they do by placing
their canoes close to the bunches of rice, in such position as to
receive the grain when it falls, and then beat it out, with pieces of
wood formed for that purpose. Having done this, they dry it with smoke,
and afterwards tread or rub off the outside husk; when it is fit for use
they put it into the skins of fawns or young buffalos taken off nearly
whole for this purpose and sewed into a sort of sack, wherein they
preserve it till the return of their harvest. It has been the subject of
much speculation why this spontaneous grain is not found in any other
regions of America, or in those countries situated in the same parallels
of latitude, where the waters are as apparently adapted for its growth
as in the climates I treat of. As for instance, none of the countries
that lie to the south and east of the great lakes, even from the
provinces north of the Carolinas to the extremities of Labradore,
produce any of this grain. It is true I found great quantities of it in
the watered lands near Detroit, between Lake Huron and Lake Erié, but on
enquiry I learned that it never arrived nearer to maturity than just to
blossom; after which it appeared blighted, and died away. This convinces
me that the north-west wind, as I have before hinted, is much more
powerful in these than in the interior parts; and that it is more
inimical to the fruits of the earth, after it has passed over the lakes
and become united with the wind which joins it from the frozen regions
of the north, than it is farther to the westward.

BEANS. These are nearly of the same shape as the European beans, but are
not much larger than the smallest size of them. They are boiled by the
Indians and eaten chiefly with bear’s flesh.

The SQUASH. They have also several species of the MELON or PUMPKIN,
which by some are called Squashes, and which serve many nations partly
as a substitute for bread. Of these there is the round, the crane-neck,
the small flat, and the large oblong squash. The smaller sorts being
boiled, are eaten during the summer as vegetables; and are all of a
pleasing flavour. The crane-neck, which greatly excells all the others,
are usually hung up for a winter’s store, and in this manner might be
preserved for several months.

Footnote 1:

  For an account of Tobacco, see a treatise I have published on the
  culture of that plant.




                               APPENDIX.


THE countries that lie between the great lakes and River Mississippi,
and from thence southward to West Florida, although in the midst of a
large continent, and at a great distance from the sea, are so situated,
that a communication between them and other realms might conveniently be
opened; by which means those empires or colonies that may hereafter be
founded or planted therein, will be rendered commercial ones. The great
River Mississippi, which runs through the whole of them, will enable
their inhabitants to establish an intercourse with foreign climes,
equally as well as the Euphrates, the Nile, the Danube, or the Wolga do
those people which dwell on their banks, and who have no other
convenience for exporting the produce of their own country, or for
importing those of others, than boats and vessels of light burden:
notwithstanding which they have become powerful and opulent states.

The Mississippi, as I have before observed, runs from north to south,
and passes through the most fertile and temperate part of North America,
excluding only the extremities of it, which verge both on the torrid and
frigid zones. Thus favourably situated, when once its banks are covered
with inhabitants, they need not long be at a loss for means to establish
an extensive and profitable commerce. They will find the country towards
the south almost spontaneously producing silk, cotton, indico, and
tobacco; and the more northern parts, wine, oil, beef, tallow, skins,
buffalo-wool, and furs; with lead, copper, iron, coals, lumber, corn,
rice, and fruits, besides earth and barks for dying.

These articles, with which it abounds even to profusion, may be
transported to the ocean through this river without greater difficulty
than that which attends the conveyance of merchandize down some of those
I have just mentioned. It is true that the Mississippi being the
boundary between the English and Spanish settlements, and the Spaniards
in possession of the mouth of it, they may obstruct the passage of it,
and greatly dishearten those who make the first attempts; yet when the
advantages that will certainly arise to settlers are known, multitudes
of adventurers, allured by the prospect of such abundant riches, will
flock to it, and establish themselves, though at the expence of rivers
of blood.

But should the nation that happens to be in possession of New Orleans
prove unfriendly to the internal settlers, they may find a way into the
Gulph of Mexico by the River Iberville, which empties itself from the
Mississippi, after passing through Lake Maurepas, into Lake
Ponchartrain; which has a communication with the sea within the borders
of West Florida. The River Iberville branches off from the Mississippi
about eighty miles above New Orleans, and though it is at present
choaked up in some parts, it might at an inconsiderable expence be made
navigable so as to answer all the purposes proposed.

Although the English have acquired since the last peace a more extensive
knowledge of the interior parts than were ever obtained before, even by
the French, yet many of their productions still remain unknown. And
though I was not deficient either in assiduity or attention during the
short time I remained in them, yet I must acknowledge that the
intelligence I gained was not so perfect as I could wish, and that it
requires further researches to make the world thoroughly acquainted with
the real value of these long hidden realms.

The parts of the Mississippi of which no survey have hitherto been
taken, amount to upwards of eight hundred miles, following the course of
the stream, that is, from the Illinois to the Ouisconsin Rivers. Those
which lie to the north of the latter are included in the map of my
travels. Plans of such as reach from the former to the Gulph of Mexico,
have been delineated by several hands; one of the best of these,
according to its size, now extant, in which is included the whole
continent of North America, is annexed to this work. And I have the
pleasure to find that an actual survey of the intermediate parts of the
Mississippi, between the Illinois River and the sea, with the Ohio,
Cherokee, and Ouabache Rivers, taken on the spot by a very ingenious
Gentleman[2], is now published. I flatter myself that the observations
therein contained, which have been made by one whose knowledge of the
parts therein described was acquired by a personal investigation, aided
by a solid judgment, will confirm the remarks I have made, and promote
the plan I am here recommending.

In the map of North America adjoined, I have partitioned the country
which lies adjacent to the eastern borders of the Mississippi into
plantations or subordinate colonies; chusing such lands only for this
purpose as by being contiguous to some river, might enjoy all the
advantages I have before pointed out. These I have divided by dotted
lines, and numbered; that future adventurers may readily, by referring
to the map, chuse a commodious and advantageous situation. I shall also
here give a concise description of each, beginning, according to the
rule of geographers, with that which lies most to the north.

It is however necessary to observe, that before these settlements can be
established, grants must be procured in the manner customary on such
occasions, and the lands be purchased of those who have acquired a right
to them by a long possession: but no greater difficulty will attend the
completion of this point, than the original founders of every colony on
the continent met with to obstruct their intentions; and the number of
Indians who inhabit these tracts being greatly inadequate to their
extent, it is not to be doubted, but they will readily give up for a
reasonable consideration, territories that are of little use to them; or
remove for the accommodation of their new neighbours to lands at a
greater distance from the Mississippi, the navigation of which is not
essential to the welfare of their communities.

N^o I. The country within these lines, from its situation, is colder
than any of the others; yet I am convinced that the air is much more
temperate than in those provinces that lie in the same degree of
latitude to the east of it. The soil is excellent, and there is a great
deal of land that is free from woods in the parts adjoining to the
Mississippi; whilst on the contrary the north-eastern borders of it are
well wooded. Towards the heads of the River Saint Croix, rice grows in
great plenty, and there is abundance of copper. Though the Falls of
Saint Anthony are situated at the south-east corner of this division,
yet that impediment will not totally obstruct the navigation, as the
River Saint Croix, which runs through a great part of the southern side
of it, enters the Mississippi just below the Falls, and flows with so
gentle a current that it affords a convenient navigation for boats. This
tract is about one hundred miles from north-west to south-east, and one
hundred and twenty miles from north-east to south-west.

N^o II. This tract, as I have already described it in my Journals,
exceeds the highest encomiums I can give it; notwithstanding which it is
entirely uninhabited, and the profusion of blessings that nature has
showered on this heavenly spot return unenjoyed to the lap from whence
they sprung. Lake Pepin, as I have termed it after the French, lies
within these bounds; but the lake to which that name properly belongs is
a little above in the River St. Croix; however, as all the traders call
the lower lake by that name, I have so denominated it, contrary to the
information I received from the Indians. This colony lying in unequal
angles, the dimensions of it cannot be exactly given, but it appears to
be on an average about one hundred and ten miles long, and eighty broad.

N^o III. The greatest part of this division is situated on the River
Ouisconsin, which is navigable for boats about one hundred and eighty
miles, till it reaches the Carrying-place that divides it from the Fox
River. The land which is contained within its limits, is in some parts
mountainous, and in others consists of fertile meadows and fine
pasturage. It is furnished also with a great deal of good timber, and,
as is generally the case on the banks of the Mississippi and its
branches, has much fine, open, clear land, proper for cultivation. To
these are added an inexhaustible fund of riches, in a number of lead
mines which lie at a little distance from the Ouisconsin towards the
south, and appear to be uncommonly full of ore. Although the Saukies and
Ottagaumies inhabit a part of this tract, the whole of the lands under
their cultivation does not exceed three hundred acres. It is in length
from east to west about one hundred and fifty miles, and about eighty
from north to south.

N^o IV. The colony here marked out consists of lands of various
denominations, some of which are very good, and others very bad. The
best is situated on the borders of the Green Bay and the Fox River,
where there are innumerable acres covered with fine grass, most part of
which grows to an astonishing height. This river will afford a good
navigation for boats throughout the whole of its course, which is about
one hundred and eighty miles, except between the Winnebago Lake, and the
Green Bay; where there are several Carrying-places in the space of
thirty miles. The Fox River is rendered remarkable by the abundance of
rice that grows on its shores, and the almost infinite numbers of wild
fowl that frequent its banks. The land which lies near it appears to be
very fertile, and promises to produce a sufficient supply of all the
necessaries of life for any number of inhabitants. A communication might
be opened by those who shall settle here, either through the Green Bay,
Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, and Lake Ontario with Canada, or
by way of the Ouisconsin into the Mississippi. This division is about
one hundred and sixty miles long from north to south, and one hundred
and forty broad.

N^o V. This is an excellent tract of land, and, considering its
interior situation, has greater advantages than could be expected; for
having the Mississippi on its western borders, and the Illinois on its
south-east, it has as free a navigation as most of the others. The
northern parts of it are somewhat mountainous, but it contains a great
deal of clear land, the soil of which is excellent, with many fine
fertile meadows, and not a few rich mines. It is upwards of two hundred
miles from north to south, and one hundred and fifty from east to west.

N^o VI. This colony being situated upon the heads of the Rivers
Illinois and Ouabache, the former of which empties itself immediately
into the Mississippi, and the latter into the same river by means of the
Ohio, will readily find a communication with the sea through these.
Having also the River Miamis passing though it, which runs into Lake
Erie, an intercourse might be established with Canada also by way of the
lakes, as before pointed out. It contains a great deal of rich fertile
land, and though more inland than any of the others, will be as valuable
an acquisition as the best of them. From north to south it is about one
hundred and sixty miles, from east to west one hundred and eighty.

N^o VII. This division is not inferior to any of the foregoing. Its
northern borders lying adjacent to the Illinois river, and its western
to the Mississippi, the situation of it for establishing a commercial
intercourse with foreign nations is very commodious. It abounds with all
the necessaries of life, and is about one hundred and fifty miles from
north to south, and sixty miles from east to west; but the confines of
it being more irregular than the others, I cannot exactly ascertain the
dimensions of it.

N^o VIII. This colony having the River Ouabache running through the
centre of it, and the Ohio for its southern boundary, will enjoy the
advantages of a free navigation. It extends about one hundred and forty
miles from north to south, and one hundred and thirty from east to west.

N^o IX. X. and XI. being similar in situation, and furnished with
nearly the same conveniencies as all the others, I shall only give their
dimensions. N^o IX. is about eighty miles each way, but not exactly
square. N^o X. is nearly in the same form, and about the same extent.
N^o XI. is much larger, being at least one hundred and fifty miles from
north to south, and one hundred and forty from east to west, as nearly
as from its irregularity it is possible to calculate.

After the description of this delightful country I have already given, I
need not repeat that all the spots I have thus pointed out as proper for
colonization, abound not only with the necessaries of life, being well
stored with rice, deer, buffalos, bears, &c. but produce in equal
abundance such as may be termed luxuries, or at least those articles of
commerce before recited, which the inhabitants of it will have an
opportunity of exchanging for the needful productions of other
countries.

The discovery of a north-west passage to India has been the subject of
innumerable disquisitions. Many efforts likewise have been made by way
of Hudson’s Bay to penetrate into the Pacific Ocean, though without
success. I shall not therefore trouble myself to enumerate the
advantages that would result from this much wished-for discovery, its
utility being already too well known to the commercial world to need any
elucidation; I shall only confine myself to the methods that appear most
probable to ensure success to future adventurers.

The many attempts that have hitherto been made for this purpose, but
which have all been rendered abortive, seem to have turned the spirit of
making useful researches into another channel, and this most interesting
one has almost been given up as impracticable; but, in my opinion, their
failure rather proceeds from their being begun at an improper place,
than from their impracticability.

All navigators that have hitherto gone in search of this passage, have
first entered Hudson’s Bay; the consequence of which has been, that
having spent the season during which only those seas are navigable, in
exploring many of the numerous inlets lying therein, and this without
discovering any opening, terrified at the approach of winter, they have
hastened back for fear of being frozen up, and consequently of being
obliged to continue till the return of summer in those bleak and dreary
realms. Even such as have perceived the coasts to enfold themselves, and
who have of course entertained hopes of succeeding, have been deterred
from prosecuting their voyage, lest the winter should set in before they
could reach a more temperate climate.

These apprehensions have discouraged the boldest adventurers from
completing the expeditions in which they have engaged, and frustrated
every attempt. But as it has been discovered by such as have sailed into
the northern parts of the Pacific Ocean, that there are many inlets
which verge towards Hudson’s Bay, it is not to be doubted but that a
passage might be made out from that quarter, if it be sought for at a
proper season. And should these expectations be disappointed, the
explorers would not be in the same hazardous situation with those who
set out from Hudson’s Bay, for they will always be sure of a safe
retreat, through an open sea, to warmer regions, even after repeated
disappointments. And this confidence will enable them to proceed with
greater resolution, and probably be the means of effecting what too much
circumspection or timidity has prevented.

These reasons for altering the plan of enquiry after this convenient
passage, carry with them such conviction, that in the year 1774 Richard
Whitworth, Esq. member of parliament for Stafford, a gentleman of an
extensive knowledge in geography, of an active enterprising disposition,
and whose benevolent mind is ever ready to promote the happiness of
individuals, or the welfare of the public, from the representations made
to him of the expediency of it by myself and others, intended to travel
across the continent of America, that he might attempt to carry a scheme
of this kind into execution.

He designed to have pursued nearly the same route that I did; and after
having built a fort at Lake Pepin, to have proceeded up the River St.
Pierre, and from thence up a branch of the River Messorie, till having
discovered the source of the Oregan or River of the West, on the other
side the summit of the lands that divide the waters which run into the
Gulph of Mexico from those that fall into the Pacific Ocean, he would
have sailed down that river to the place where it is said to empty
itself near the Straights of Annian.

Having there established another settlement on some spot that appeared
best calculated for the support of his people, in the neighbourhood of
some of the inlets which tend towards the north-east, he would from
thence have begun his researches. This gentleman was to have been
attended in the expedition by Colonel Rogers, myself, and others, and to
have taken out with him a sufficient number of artificers and mariners
for building the forts and vessels necessary on the occasion, and for
navigating the latter; in all not less than fifty or sixty men. The
grants and other requisites for this purpose were even nearly completed,
when the present troubles in America began, which put a stop to an
enterprize that promised to be of inconceivable advantage to the British
dominions.


                                 FINIS.

Footnote 2:

  Thomas Hutchins, Esq; Captain in his Majesty’s 60th, or Royal American
  Regiment of Foot.




              DIRECTIONS for Placing the MAPS and PLATES.

Map of North America, to front the Title Page.

        Plan of Travels,                                   P. 16
                   Plate
                N^o  I. The Falls of St. Anthony,            70
                     II. Man and Woman of the Ottagaumies,   228
                    III. Ditto of the Naudowessies,          230
                     IV. Indian Weapons,                     296




                                 INDEX


      A

 Acosta de, a Spanish Writer, 184

 Adair’s opinion of the peopling of America, 206

 Adair’s opinion respecting the Mosaic rites of the Indians, 386

 Adoration, Indian, 67

 Adultery, punishment of, 375

 Age revered, 243

 Algonkins, 138

 Allanipegon river, 137

 America, peopled from different countries, 182, 184, 210

 Anthony St. falls of, 66, 69

 Anthropophagi, 196, 303, 304

 Apathy of the Indians, 240

 Arithmetic, ignorance of, 254

 Arts, little cultivated, 249

 Ash tree, 491

 —— —— prickly, 393, 508

 Asrahcootans, a band of Indians, 80

 Assinipoils, a tribe of Indians, 76, 80, 112

 Astronomy of the Indians, 253


      B

 Ball, an Indian game, 311

 Bass or white wood, 499

 Beans, 526

 Bears, American, 442

 —— grease used by the Indians, 443

 —— method of hunting, 286

 Beards of the Indians, 225

 Beavers, history of, 457

 —— method of hunting, 289, 290

 Beech nut, 501

 Bees, 491

 Birds of America, 466

 Bleeding of the jugular by the Carcajou, 450
   _vide_ Carcajou

 Blood, human, drank, 304, 319

 —— root, 516

 Blue clay, used as a mark of peace, 102

 Braddock, general, cause of the defeat of, 311

 Bread, a species of, 26

 —— unknown to the Nawdowessies, 262

 Bones of the Nawdowessies preserved, 65, 84

 —— carried for interment, 84, 86, 401

 Bourbon lake, 107

 —— river, source of, 76, 115

 Bowl, game of the Indians, 365, 366

 Bugs of America, 491, 493

 Buffaloes, largest in America, 56, 103, 110

 —— method of hunting of, 287

 —— history of, 445

 Burying place of the Nawdowessies, 65

 Bustard river, 176

 Butter or oil nut, 500

 Button wood, 499


      C

 Cadot’s Fort, 131, 141

 Calumet, _vide_ pipe of peace

 Canada, maps of, imperfect, intr. iii

 Carcajou of America, 450

 —— opens the jugular vein of its prey, 450

 Carp, 478

 Carrabou, history of, 449

 Carthaginians, supposed to have visited America, 190

 Carver Captain, escape of, at the massacre of Fort William Henry, 321

 Carver’s intrepidity, 52, 81, 96, 280, 320

 —— devotion of, 68, 178

 —— intention in his travels, 178

 —— river, 74

 Cassa Tate, 296

 Cataraqui river, 171

 Cat-head fish or pout, 171

 Cat-fish, 478

 Cat-mint, 520

 Cave, remarkable one, 63, 84

 Charlevoix Pierre de, French historian, 192, 199, 220

 Chegomegan Point of Lake Superior, 138

 Cherry-tree, 504

 Chichicoué beans, use of, 385, 394

 Children, management of, in infancy, 236

 —— tenderness to, 378

 Chipéway Indians, 60, 96, 104, 115, 268, 352

 —— —— gratitude of, 63, 357

 —— —— language of, 420

 Chipéway Indians, universality of, 414, 416

 —— river, 102

 Choak-berry, 512

 Chongousceton Indians, 80

 Chub, 478

 Clays, variously , 101

 Cohnawaghans or Mohawks of Canada, 173

 Coldness of the water of Lake Superior, 153

 Colour of the Indians, 223

 Cookery, Indian, 233

 Copper ore in America, 139

 Crab-tree, 503

 Cranberry-bush, 511

 Crane, American, 469

 Croix St. Riviere, 105, 106

 Cross, no object of religious worship, 387

 Cruelty to captives, 339, 341

 Cuzco, great road, 191


      D

 Daggers of the Nawdowessies, 296

 Dance, remarkable, near Lake Pepin, 279

 Dances of the Indians, 266

 Dead Indians how treated, 398

 —— —— oration on, 399, 400

 Death, cruelty in inflicting, 338, 340

 Death-cries, 334

 Death-song, 334, 337

 Deer, plentiful, 110, 114

 —— manner of hunting them, 288

 —— some account of, 446

 Defiance to war, 307

 Delzel, an enterprizing officer, 162

 Detroit, straights of, and river, 150

 Devils-bit, 515

 Dii Penates, 278, 309

 Diseases of the Indians, 389

 Dishes of the Indians, 234

 Divorce of the Indians, 371

 Dogs, flesh of, a feast of the Indians, 278, 304

 —— of America, 445

 Dress of the Indians, 219, 226

 Drink of the Indians, 263

 Dropsy, treatment of, 391

 Ducks, American, 469


      E

 Eagles, American, 466

 —— abound near the falls of St. Anthony, 71

 Ears of the Indians ornamented, 227

 Elder shrub, 508

 Elks, large in America, 103, 447

 —— method of hunting them, 288

 Enemies, implacable hatred of, 238

 Erie Lake, 167

 Etchelaugon Lake, 176


      F

 Falls of St. Anthony, 66, 69

 —— —— —— —— picturesque view of, 70

 Farinaceous and leguminous roots, 522

 Fasts of the Indians, 285

 Feasts, Indian, 262

 Feu-de-joie of the Ottawaws, 23

 Fever-bush, 511

 Fidelity of the Indians, 372

 Fishes of America, 476

 Fish-hawk, American, 468

 Flints used as chirurgical instruments, 394

 Flowers, American, 52

 Food of the Indians, 263

 Fort William Henry, massacre of, 313

 Fortitude of the Indians, 411

 Fox river, 38, 40

 —— —— abounds with wild fowl, 39

 Foxes of America, 444

 Francis St. river of, 72

 —— —— Indians, 173

 Fruit trees, 502

 Funeral ceremonies, 402, 405

 —— speech, 399, 406, 407

 Furs, beaver, 110, 111

 Future state, ideas respecting, 383, 404


      G

 Games, Indian, 363

 Gaming among the Indians, 244, 363

 Garcia Gregorio, a Spanish historian, 183

 Gargit or skoke, 518

 Geography of the Indians, 84, 252

 Ginsang, 514

 Gladwyn, major, 155

 —— —— faithfulness of the servant of, 156

 Goddard’s river, 105, 132

 —— —— transparency of, 132

 Gold, plenty of, 118

 Gold thread, 515

 Goose river, 72

 Grape, a species of, 136

 Green snake, 486

 Green-bay, near Lake Michigan, 21

 Greenland, borders on America, 209

 Grollon, father, a relation from, 193

 Government of the Indians, 255

 Guella Francis, 195


      H

 Hairs plucked out by the Indians, 225

 Hatchet red, emblem of war, 362

 Head dress of the Indians, 230

 Hemlock-tree, 499

 Hennepin, father, 69, 219

 Herbs, American, 516

 Hereditary succession, 259

 Hesperides, supposed to be the Antilles, 183

 Hickory, 502

 Hieroglyphicks, Indian,  64, 252, 337, 417

 —— anecdotes respecting the, 418

 Hispaniola, said to have been visited by the Tyrian fleet, 192

 Hissing snake, 167, 486

 Hontan, Baron de, 220

 Hornn George de, a Dutch writer, 189

 Horned bug, 493

 Hospitality of the Indians, 25, 81, 83, 265

 Houses, Indian, 231

 Hudson’s Bay, company of, 110, 112

 Humming-bird, 475

 Hunting among the Indians, 283

 Huron Lake, 144, 150

 Huron Indians, 151

 Hurricane, effects of one, 103

 Huts of the Indians, 231


      I

 Ice, forming an intercourse between America and Europe, 188

 Indian, interview, 61

 —— banditti, 52

 —— corn or maize, 522

 —— wild, 520

 Indolence of the Indians, 243, 244

 Initiation into the friendly society of the spirit, 271

 Ink like rain, 153

 Insects of America, 490

 Intrenchment, remains of one, 56, 57

 Intrigue of the Indians, 376, 377

 Iroondocks, a tribe of the Iroquois Indians, or five Mohawk nations,
    173

 Iroquois Lakes, 173

 —— Indians, or five Mohawk nations, 173

 Island of Mauropas, 135

 Isle Royal in Lake Superior, 134


      J

 Jacobs, lieutenant, 164

 Jay, blue, 472

 Jaun, Riviere, 51

 Jealousy rarely known, 245

 Jews, supposed to have discovered America, 207

 John St., Lake of, 177


      K

 Kamtschatka borders on America, 194, 214

 Killistinoes, a tribe of Indians, 76, 80, 112, 130

 —— priest, anecdote of, 123 to 128

 —— king of, described, 131

 King bird, 475


      L

 La Bay, fort of, 21

 Lac la Pluye, 114

 —— du Bois, 113

 Laconia, province of, 174

 Laët John de, a Flemish writer, 184, 186

 Lakes of America misrepresented, intr. iv.

 Language of the Indians, 414

 Lightning-bug, 491

 Liquid amber-tree, 505

 Litters, Indian, 330

 Lizards, American, 488

 Long black snake, 485

 Loon, the American, 470


      M

 Magic, initiation into, 272

 Mahahs, trade of at Fort la Reine, 109

 Maize, or Indian-corn, 522

 Manataulin, island in lake Merow, 144

 Mandrakes, suggestions about, 118

 Manikouagone lake, near the black river, 176

 Manitou, or Kitchi Manitou, 381, 388

 Manitous, 309

 Manners of the Indians, 235

 Maple, 496

 Marble river, 101

 Marie St. falls of, 142, 148

 Marriage ceremonies, 367, 369, 373

 —— dance, 265

 Martin, history of, 455

 Massacre at Fort William Henry, 313, 327

 Mawhaws, a band of Indians, 80

 Mawtawbauntowahs, 60

 —— anecdote of a party of, 60

 Medicine of the Indians, 305, 385, 391

 Melon, 526

 Memory of the Indians, retentive, 242

 Menomonies take Fort la Bay, 22

 Menies, ceremony concerning the, 236

 Messorie river, 75, 118

 Mexican refugees, 119

 —— —— ideas of, 117

 Michigan lake, navigable to Greenbay, 26

 —— —— description of, 28, 140

 Michillimackinac, fort of, 18, 137, 149

 —— —— taken by stratagem, 19

 Michipicooton river, 137

 Midwives unknown among the Indians, 235

 Mink, American, 465

 Missisauges, an Indian tribe, 171

 Mississippi river, 56, 66, 72, 102

 —— —— source of, 76

 Mistassin lake on Rupert’s river, 175

 Mohawks river, 172

 Mohawks, nation of, 173

 Monro Colonel, death of, 314, 325

 Montcalm General, cruelty of, 320, 326

 —— —— death of, 326

 Months and moons of the Indians, 251

 Moose-deer, 448

 —— wood, 508

 Morand Captain, anecdote of, 40

 Moraez Emanuel de, a Portuguese writer, 188

 Moschettoe country, 106

 Mountain in the river, 56

 —— red, a place of trade and amity, 99

 —— shining, 118, 121

 Mourning, ceremonies of, 403, 407

 Mulberry-tree, 503

 Musquash, or musk-rat, 455

 Myrtle wax-tree, 510


      N

 Natural history of America, 441

 Nawdowessie Indians, 59, 61, 80, 268, 271

 —— —— anecdote of a party of, 61

 —— —— friendly disposition of, 62

 —— —— burying-place of, 65

 —— —— language of, 416

 —— —— vocabulary of, 433

 —— —— song of, 440

 Nehogatawonahs, 60

 Niagara, falls of, 169

 —— fort of, 169, 170

 Night-hawk, history of the, 466

 Nipegon river, 157

 Nipising lake, 175

 Nut-trees, 500


      O

 Oaks, American, 495

 Oil-nut, 500

 Oniada lake, 172

 —— Indians, a tribe of the Iroquois, or five Mohawk nations, 173

 Onondagoes, a tribe of the Iroquois, 173

 Ontario lake, 170

 —— —— country surrounding, 172

 Oregon river, 66

 Origin of the Americans, 181 to 219

 Oswego river, 171

 —— bass-fish, 171

 Ottagaumies, 48, 50, 352, 357

 Ottawaw lakes, 106, 175

 Otter skins, employed as manitous, 309

 —— history of, 464

 Ouis Consin river, 45

 Ouinipique river, 108

 Oviedo, a celebrated Spanish writer, 183

 Owl of America, 469


      P

 Paint of the Indians, 101, 227, 231

 Papenouagane lake, 176

 Partridges, American, 471

 Parturition, easy, 235

 —— how promoted, 396

 Pawwaw, or black dance, 270

 Peace, manner of making, 351, 358, 360

 Pecan-nut, 501

 Peopling of America, _vide_ America, 181 to 219

 Pepin lake, 54, 95

 —— rich scenery near it, 55

 Persons of the Indians, 219, 223

 Pertibi lake, 176

 Petticoats, Indian, 229

 Phœnicians, said to have visited America, 190, 191

 Physicians of the Indians, 384, 391, 395

 Pierre St. Riviere, 65, 75

 —— —— —— source of, 84

 Pine-tree, 496

 Pipe or Calumate dance, 268

 —— of peace, 281, 358

 Pipes Indian, where procured, 101

 Plants of America, 512

 Platter, a game of the Indians, 365, 366

 Pleurisy, treatment of, 390

 Plumb-tree, 526

 Plymouth company, grant to, 174

 Polygamy of the Indians, 369

 Pontiac, a celebrated Indian warrior, 19

 —— surprizes Michillimackinac, 20

 —— further account of, 153

 —— stratagems and catastrophe of, 153 to 166

 Poor Robin’s plantain, 518

 Porcupine, history of, 453

 Portage grand, 106

 Pots Indian, manufactory of, 233

 Prairies les Chiens, 50, 93

 —— —— —— picturesque description around, 100

 Prairies les Chiens, place of trade and general amity, 99

 Prayer of an Ottowaw chief, 24

 Prickly-ash, in the venereal disease, 393, 508

 Priest of the Killistinoes, 123, 384

 —— anecdote of, 125

 —— of the Indians, 384

 Prisoners, cruel treatment of, 330, 331, 336

 —— grace to, 343, 344

 —— never exchanged, 345

 Property, equality of, 247, 248

 Pumpkin, 526


      Q

 Queen of the Winnebagoes, 33


      R

 Racoon, history of, 454

 Rainy lake, 114

 Rattle snake, anecdote of one, 43

 —— —— frequent, 167

 —— —— history of, 479

 —— —— bite of, antidotes to, 482

 —— —— plantain, 482, 517

 Red wood smoked with tobacco, 31

 —— marble river, 75

 —— mountain, rendezvous for trade and general amity, 99

 Red bird, 475

 Reine la Fort, of, 109

 Religion of the Indians, 380

 Revenge of the Indians, 298, 413

 Rice, wild, 523

 Rink-snake, 487

 Road of war, 103

 Rock Liverwort, 518

 Robertson Dr. his opinion on the peopling of America, 217, 218

 —— his misrepresentation, 224

 Rogers, Major, 163

 Roots and plants, 512

 Rum river, 72

 Rupert’s river, 174


      S

 Sachem, 257

 Sacrifice dance, 268, 282

 Sagacity of the Indians, 242, 284, 328

 Sagapenum bay, 144

 Saguenay river, near lake St. John, 176

 Salle Mr. de la, 220

 Salaciousness of the Nawdowessies, 246

 Salt, an antidote to the bite of the rattle-snake, 483

 Sand Cherries (cherries de sable), 30

 Sanicle, 517

 Sarsaparilla, 513

 Sassafras, 507

 Saukies, account of, 47, 352, 357

 —— possess lead, 48

 Sautor Grand, or great Chipéway Chief, 97

 —— —— his tragic fate, 99

 Scalps kept as trophies, 328

 Scalping, account of, 328, 329

 Scarification used by the Indians, 394

 Schians, a band of Indians, 80

 Schianese, 80

 Scythians, founders of America, 180, 190, 196

 Sekockimac smoked with tobacco, 31

 Senecas, a tribe of the Iroquois, 173

 Serpents of America, 479

 Shahsweentowahs, 60

 Shells, ornaments of, 227

 Shin wood, 506

 Shining mountains, 118, 121

 Shirts of the Indians, 226, 229

 Shoes of the Indians, 228

 Shrub-oak, 509

 Shrubs, 505

 Silk-worms, 490

 Skunk of America, 450

 —— cabbage or poke, 519

 Slaves, Indian, 346

 Sledges, Indian, 330

 Slow lizard, 489

 Small-pox, ravages of, 326

 Snake skin, chirurgical use of, 392

 Snakes, American, 485

 Solomon’s seal, 515

 Speech addressed to the Nawdowessies, 87

 —— of the Nawdowessie Indians, 90

 Speeches to excite to war, 300, 302

 Speckled snake, 487

 Spikenard, 381

 Spirit, the great, dwelling of, 63, 135, 144, 381

 —— —— —— address to, 67, 125, 302

 —— —— —— ceremony of invoking, 123, 127

 Spirit, an amazing large one, 135

 Spirits, 381

 Spirituous liquors, fondness for, 347

 Splinters, how extracted, 392

 Spoon-wood, 508

 Squashes, 526

 Squirrels, American, 456

 Stockings of the Indians, 228

 Stone, white as snow, 100

 —— red, used for making pipes, 101

 Strawberry-river, 105

 Striped or garter snake, 486

 Sturgeon frequent, 106, 140

 —— history of, 477

 Subordination unknown to the North American Indians, 257

 Succatosh food, 263

 Sugar of the Maple, 262, 282

 Sulphureous water, rained, 153

 —— stones, 169

 Sumach-leaves, smoked with tobacco, 30

 Superior Lake, 106

 —— —— transparency of its water, 132

 —— —— elegant and picturesque view from, 143

 Superstition of the Indians, 238, 254, 391


      T

 Tamiscaming Lake, 175

 Targets of the Indians, 296

 Teal, 470

 Temper of the Indians, 238

 Thorn-tail snake, 486

 Thousand lakes, 73

 Thunder, alarming to the Indians, 85

 Time, calculation of, 250

 Tintons, a band of Indians, 80

 Toad plantain, 518

 Tobacco worm, 491

 —— plant, and life of the author, 521 intr.

 Tongo-Wakon, 381

 Toronto, Indian town, 171

 Tortoise, or land turtle, 488

 Tree-toad, 489

 Trees, American, 494

 Trouts, plenty of, 140, 149

 Turnbull, Captain, 152

 Tuscarories, a tribe of the Iroquois, 173

 Two-headed snake, 487

 Tyger, American, 442

 Tyrian fleet, supposed to have visited America, 192


      V

 Venereal disease not indigenous to America, 392

 —— —— cured by the prickly-ash, 393

 Vines, American, 503

 Visits of the Indians, 241

 Vocabulary of the Chipéway tongue, 420

 —— of the Nawdowessies, 433


      W

 Waddapawjestin Indians, 80

 Waddapawmenesotor river, 65

 Wake robin, 520

 Wakon-teebe cave, 63

 —— bird, 470

 —— Kitchewah society, 271

 Wakons, 309, 381

 Wampum, 362

 War-dance, 269

 War, manner of making, 293, 300, 306, 310

 —— club, 296, 362

 —— declaration of, 307

 —— hoop, 319, 334

 Warrior, the great, 257

 —— Indian, military arms of, 269

 Water-bug, 493

 Water-snakes, 167, 486

 Weeks of the Indians, 252

 Whetsaw of America, 475

 Whipper-will, 467

 Whirtleberries, 136

 White-ash, antidote to the rattle-snake poison, 482

 Wickopick-tree, 499

 Wild indigo, 520

 Wild rice, 523

 Willow, 506

 Winds of America varying in temperature, 70

 Winnepeek river, 108, 110

 Winter-green, 510

 Witch-hazle, 509

 Witchcraft, how treated, 395

 Wives, station of, 367

 Wolves, American, 444

 Women, courage of, 333

 Wood-creek river, 172

 Wood-chuck, 454

 Wood-pigeon, 471

 Woodpecker, 472

 Worship cultivated by the Indians, 179

 Wounds, treatment of, 391


      Y

 Yellow river, 51




Transcriber's Note:

There is one image which was present twice in the original (the Tobacco
Plant). Both images were retained. The words (top) and (bottom) were
added to some image captions to clarify which caption refers to which
image. Dashes used as ditto marks in the Table of Contents were replaced
by the text they represent.

Some corrections have been made to the original. In particular,
punctuation errors were corrected. In the index, the spelling was
altered to match the spelling in the body text; page numbers were added
where missing and corrected where mistakes were found.

Additional corrections are listed below:

      p. 11 Chipèway -> Chipéway
      p. 13 Chipeway -> Chipéway
      p. 15 rout -> route
      p. 15 pap. -> pag.
      p. 23 suprised -> surprised
      p. 35 excusions -> excursions
      p. 37 rapaid -> rapid
      p. 46 disstance -> distance
      p. 63 recived -> received
      p. 63 after I left left -> after I left
      p. 96 Chippéways -> Chipéways
      p. 136 notwithstanding that is -> notwithstanding that it is
      p. 151 more attentive to to -> more attentive to
      p. 188 Portugeuse -> Portuguese
      p. 219 utilitity -> utility
      p. 235 assiststance -> assistance
      p. 241 neve -> never
      p. 279 red and and black -> red and black
      p. 305 Nowithstanding -> Notwithstanding
      p. 311 their -> there
      p. 312 extraordinry -> extraordinary
      p. 315 whereing -> wherein
      p. 318 anle -> ancle
      p. 347 treaders -> traders
      p. 352 Ontatario -> Ontario
      p. 353 impossibe -> impossible
      p. 354 pass though -> pass through
      p. 406 strengh -> strength
      p. 407 blacken their their faces -> blacken their faces
      p. 440 purpose a a short -> purpose a short
      p. 483 it -> its
      p. 484 suden -> sudden
      p. 501 chensuts -> chesnuts
      p. 507 kown -> known
      p. 517 seldoms -> seldom
      p. 536 ae -> are





End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels through the Interior Parts of
North America, in the Years 1766, 176, by Jonathan Carver

*** 