ITS ENVIRONS***


Transcribed from the 1849 T. Crowe edition by David Price, email
ccx074@pglaf.org

       [Picture: Lowestoft Marine Esplanade, Lucas & Son Builders]





                                   THE
                              NEW HAND-BOOK
                                    TO
                                LOWESTOFT
                            And its Environs;


                              COMPILED FROM

              GILLINGWATER’S HISTORY, SUCKLING’S ANTIQUITIES
                      OF SUFFOLK, AND OTHER SOURCES.

                                * * * * *

                    ILLUSTRATED WITH STEEL ENGRAVINGS.

                                * * * * *

                                LOWESTOFT:
                    PRINTED BY T. CROWE, HIGH STREET.

          MAY BE HAD ALSO OF WHITTAKER AND CO., LONDON; JARROLD
      OR FLETCHER, NORWICH; BARBER, SLOMAN, OR ALEXANDER, YARMOUTH;
           LOYNS, BECCLES; BURTON, IPSWICH; OR ANY BOOKSELLER.

                                * * * * *

                                MDCCCXLIX.

                                * * * * *

                              THOMAS CROWE,
                                 PRINTER,
                         HIGH STREET, LOWESTOFT.




PREFACE.


LOWESTOFT is not only considered a very healthy and pleasant watering
place, but, from various causes, is assuming a position of such
importance, as to render it more than probable that visiters will arrive
in numbers augmented every season: this work is intended primarily for
their use; at the same time, it is hoped it will he found interesting to
the residents generally, being a verbal and pictorial description of the
place of their abode, and a repository of facts and incidents connected
with its history.  The writer wishes it to be distinctly understood that
the book professes to be, for the most part, a compilation; he has not
therefore thought it necessary—except in a few special cases—to give
authorities, or the usual indications of quotation.

_Lowestoft_, _March_, 1849.




HAND-BOOK TO LOWESTOFT.


SITUATION OF THE TOWN AND ITS GENERAL FEATURES.


Lowestoft is situated upon the most Easterly point of land in England.
It stands upon a lofty eminence, and commands an extensive prospect of
the German Ocean.

    Enthroned upon an ancient hill it rests;
    Calmly it lifts its time-worn head; and first
    Of all Old England’s busy towns, whispers
    Its orisons, and greets the rising morn.

It stands upon a dry soil, upon the summit of a cliff, and enjoys a most
salubrious air—keen, but bracing; and not being exposed to any of those
unwholesome damps and vapours, which generally arise from low grounds and
marshes, it is rendered not only a pleasant, but a very healthy
situation.

The principal street, three-quarters of a mile in length, running in a
gradual descent nearly North and South, is on the brow of the hill.  The
houses built on the Eastern side of the street have all a view of the
sea; many of them have an extensive prospect, and most have, in addition,
terraced gardens which <DW72> downwards towards the sea: these gardens,
when viewed from the beach, present a very pleasing appearance, thickly
planted as some of them are with fruit and ornamental trees, and shrubs,
the roots of which, binding the soil, prevent it from being precipitated
into the regions beneath.  A considerable number of the houses on this
side of the street are, in consequence of these natural advantages, let
in the summer season to individuals and families frequenting the town;
those on the western side of the street, having no special advantages of
this kind, are not so much in request.

Below the cliff, or terraced gardens, the fish-houses are to be found,
where the greater part of the staple business of the town is carried on.

To the North and South of the town there are large sandy plains, called
the denes, which probably were originally covered by the sea.  Towards
Corton they are very extensive, and are covered with a peculiar
vegetation: there, and near the beach, may be found amongst others, the
following plants—

The Eryngium Maritimum              (Sea Eryngo)
„ Glaucium Luteum               (Yellow-horned Poppy)
„ Ononis Spinosa                (Prickly rest-harrow)
,, Cochleria Anglica           (English scurvy Grass)
„ Tussilago Farfara                 (Colt’s Foot)
and under the fish-houses and old walls,
The Urtica Pilulifera              (Roman Nettle)

which is a rare plant of a _noli-me-tangere_ character, having a very
severe sting.

Lowestoft is the only market town in the island of Lothingland, which
island is situated in the North-east corner of the county of Suffolk, and
is formed by the German Ocean on the East, by the river Yare on the
North, by the Waveney on the West, and Lake Lothing on the South.  Its
length from North to South is about ten miles; and its breadth, from East
to West about six miles.  It contains sixteen parishes, and during the
Saxon heptarchy was part of the kingdom of the East Angles.

This last remark very naturally introduces us to consider some
circumstances connected with



THE HISTORY OF LOWESTOFT.


And Lowestoft has materials for a history.  That history, like all which
worthily bears the name, reaches far back into the ages that are past.
Old Romans, brave Saxons, fierce Danes, have left some vestiges of their
connexion with the place, however faint they may, at this distance of
time, have become.  It has had its feuds with men who dwelt across the
Yare, and nobly defended its own natural rights; it took no silent part
in the civil commotions of the middle of the seventeenth century; and was
no craven in the latter half of that century, in the wars with the Dutch
and others.

Its religious history partakes of the various characteristics of the
several ages as they have passed.  Priories and candles are dimly seen in
the dark ages; image worship in the time of popery; image breaking in the
time of puritanism; learned dissent in the time when liberty arose;
warm-hearted methodism in the time of revival; vicars varying in their
tenets, from the unmitigated Romanism of Scroope, to the learned Arianism
of Whiston; and from that, to the Evangelicism of the present regime.

Its domestic history contains notices of plagues, fires, and storms,
among the more _terrific_ incidents; and of royal visits, among its
_pageants_.  Among its _improvements_, we notice the erection of
light-houses, the formation of the harbour, etc., all which will require
more particular attention as we proceed.

But before we make any lengthened remarks on these points, it may not be
amiss to make



A PERAMBULATION OF THE TOWN.


Perhaps the reader lodges at the new and commodious houses, built for the
accommodation of visitors by the enterprising Mr. Fisher, known as Marine
Terrace.  Let him, after leaving the house, proceed southward to the
Railway station and bridge, turn towards the sea on the Lowestoft side of
the harbour, and, leaving Baron Alderson’s abode on the left, proceed to
the Battery green; here he may see the Bath house, occupied by Mr. Jones,
where hot and cold baths can be obtained; where also, in the Reading
room, the principal newspapers may be consulted at a moderate charge.

Thence sallying forth refreshed, directing his course to the beach, and
turning to the left, he may see the lower Light-house; and out at sea,
the Stanford floating light.

Keeping along the beach, if at the commencement of the fisheries, he may
see the boats launched; if during the fishing season, he may see the fish
brought on shore; if at the close of the season, he may see the boats
hauled up and arranged on the beach.

The Fish-houses here present themselves, ranged at the bottom of the
cliff; and the denes afford the visiter several specimens of their
peculiar vegetation.  Continuing his course to the Ness, he will find a
post indicating the extreme Eastern point of England; this is near the
East Battery.

He may now turn round and direct his course towards the hills; by walking
to the left, he will come to the Warren house, to the west of which is a
piece of water, where there were formerly pumps and an overshot mill,
erected for the purposes of the china manufacture carried on in the town.

If he ascend the cliff, he will have an extensive prospect of the ocean
with its shipping; he will also have before him a pleasant walk towards
the town along the edge of the cliff, and to his right a beautiful
landscape.

Crossing the gat ways, (which have been made for the purpose of admitting
carts to the beach and fish-offices,) at the bottom of which are land
springs, and a rippling streamlet, he may enter the town by the north
Light-house; leaving it and Dr. Whewell’s residence on his left, the
first house he passes on the same side is Mr. Preston’s, the next is Mrs.
Reeve’s, further on is the Vicarage, indicated by a brass plate on the
door, and opposite to it is the Baptist Chapel.

Further down, on either side of the way, are two public houses, which
give evidence of having been formerly portions of monastic buildings;
lower down on the left, is a bookseller’s shop, all that remains of the
Swan Inn, Cromwell’s head quarters; opposite is the Town Hall, near which
are seen the Market Place, the Queen’s Head, and Crown Hotels; further
down is the Star Inn, having an extensive sea view, and at the top of the
score near it, may be seen a brass plate inscribed to the memory of the
Revolution of 1688; and nearly opposite is the Post Office.

Further down still, on the left, is a flint house, built in 1587, the
residence of Mr. Took, the master of Wylde’s school; at the back of this
is Annot’s school; nearly opposite Wylde’s school is the Independent
Chapel.

Let him still proceed, and, leaving the High street, turn to the right,
he will then see the Old Market plain, instead of crossing which, if he
keep to the left, he will pass St. Peter’s Chapel.

Still bearing to the left, if he walk along the Beccles road, he will
come to Rotterdam house, once a public house, bearing the sign of “the
town of Rotterdam.”

If he has not been to the Church, he may get there from this point by a
foot path across the fields; or, instead of going to the church, he may
take the road opposite Rotterdam house, and either proceed straight
forward to the Railway and the various works connected with it, or,
vaulting a stile on his left, he may enter a pleasant foot path
conducting him towards the town; this path will lead him over a rising
ground, from which he may obtain a splendid prospect, (let him turn
himself round and admire the views by land and sea!) and will then bring
him out upon the turnpike road, nearly opposite the spot from which he
started; he may now go in and read what we have further to say about the
town.

As perhaps the visitor may wish to make a special pilgrimage to the
church, his better plan will be to start off for that purpose from the
upper part of the town, where, at the end of the pavement, he will find a
lane which leads directly to the building he is in search of.  As he
walks along _this_ lane he may notice on his right, _another_ leading to
the hills (_i.e._ to the common at the north of the town) which, having
found, let him make a note of, and then proceed.  After leaving the
church he may return by the road, he will then have the piece of ground
in which are the Basket Wells on his right, and the Infirmary opposite;
he may then enter the High Street again by either of the streets which
are before him.



LOWESTOFT AND THE ROMANS.


The Romans had a station in the neighbourhood of Lowestoft called
Garianonum; its present name is Burgh Castle.  Whilst there, it is
probable that they frequented the coast at Lowestoft, as, from its
situation, it afforded them a post of observation which they would not be
likely to neglect.  This probability is strengthened by the fact, that
some years ago, a Roman urn containing bones, was found in a piece of
ground now traversed by the Railway.  It has been supposed that they
obtained their knowledge of herrings from their connexion with this spot.



LOWESTOFT AND THE DANES.


The Danes are supposed to have given the town, and island on which the
town is situated, a name.  The tradition is briefly this:—Lothbroch of
royal blood, when hawking on the coast of Denmark, was overtaken by a
tempest and driven across the German Ocean, into the Yare, where he was
taken and brought before Edmund, King of the East Angles.  The King and
Lothbroch were pleased each with the other, so much so, that the Dane
continued an inmate of the king’s palace.  He conceived a great relish
for hunting, in which exercise he took lessons from Berno the king’s
huntsman, and soon eclipsed his teacher in the chase.  Berno, envious on
account of his proficiency, secretly murdered him; his body was
discovered by means of his Greyhound, which kept watch beside the body,
and left it only when, urged by hunger, he occasionally visited the
palace for food.  The dog was followed, the body found; Berno was
suspected, and being found guilty, was put on board Lothbroch’s boat, and
committed to the mercy of the winds and waves.  He was carried to
Denmark, where he affirmed that Lothbroch had been murdered by Edmund,
the king of the East Angles.  The sons of Lothbroch came over to avenge
their father’s death.  Edmund was taken prisoner, was bound to a stake,
and shot to death with arrows in the year 871, and with him expired the
kingdom of the East Angles.

“After the death of Edmund” says Ives, “the Danes settled themselves in
Lothingland, to which tract of land they are supposed to have given that
name, in remembrance of their ancestor Lothbroch.”  The town itself was
anciently called Lothu Wistoft, which name may have been given to it as
the town of Lothingland—the land of Lothbroch,—at any rate, the three
names begin with an L, and that, in an etymological discussion, is
something.



LOWESTOFT AND YARMOUTH.


The following extract from the town book, taken from Camden, is given in
Gillingwater’s History and transferred to our pages, as containing
valuable information on our present subject.

    “About the year of our Lord 1100, about 500 years past,” (_i.e._
    about A.D. 600) “it pleased God to lay the first foundation of the
    east town of Yarmouth into firm land, even out of the main sea.
    Which place was then called and known by the name of Sardike sand,
    and Sardike shore; and in a short time it proved to be a fit and
    commodious place for a town to be built, meet for sea-faring men to
    inhabit in.  And by the permission of many noble kings in this land,
    his majesties progenitors, many did resort thither, and began to
    build the same, and to enclose it with a stone wall on the east side
    of the town (the haven being on the west side), insomuch, that,
    within a short time the same grew populous.”

    “And long before Yarmouth town was incorporated, the barons of the
    five ports did yearly hold a free fair in the three towns of Yarmouth
    (that is to say) Easton, Weston, and Southton, beginning the said
    fair on the feast of St. Michael, and so continued forty days
    together.”

    “And by the authority of the king, they did then use to make their
    repair thither, on purpose for the governing of the said fair.  And
    in those days there was yearly sent from the brotherhood of the five
    ports, and the ancient towns, nine or ten bailiffs who governed the
    fair.  And it is to be noted that long before any liberties were
    granted to Yarmouth, the towns of Lowestoft and Kirkley, in the
    County of Suffolk, were built, and populously inhabited; and the then
    town of Kirkley being the greatest town of account, and the most
    ancient upon the coast, and being a haven town before that Yarmouth
    was Yarmouth, and thereupon the whole fishing seas upon the confines
    of Suffolk and Norfolk, take the name of Kirkley seas.”

    “And to this day the seas upon those coasts are called or known by
    the French fishermen coming there to fish, by the name of Kirkley
    seas.  And long since, before Yarmouth was incorporated there was
    such trading and merchandizing of herrings at Lowestoft, and the same
    was by the Yarmouth men so much envied, that civil wars subsisted for
    a long time between them, with much bloodshed, until it pleased God
    to take the matter into his own hands, who ended the strife with such
    a great mortality of people, that there died of the plague in
    Yarmouth, 7000 persons, and then the war ceased.”

The sand on which Yarmouth was founded, was dry in the year 495 when
Cerdick the Saxon first landed there, and shortly after Yarmouth began to
be erected by the Saxons.

In process of time Yarmouth obtained a charter, and after a while the
Yarmouthians attempted so to explain that charter, as to exclude the
merchants of Lowestoft from purchasing herrings in the seas near their
own town.  A violent rupture between the two towns ensued, and so far did
their resentments go, that they fitted out armed vessels, commenced
hostilities on each other’s property, and even committed bloodshed.  The
case was in the end brought before the house of Lords and finally
determined in favour of Lowestoft. {14}

All history gives a higher antiquity to Lowestoft than to Yarmouth, and
on this point the townsmen have been not a little jealous: the
controversy with its junior neighbour, nevertheless, was not a
controversy for pre-eminence, but for an independent existence; this it
has secured, and now, though long repressed, Lowestoft seems girding
itself anew to run the race of honorable competition with its more
fortunate rival.



LOWESTOFT AND THE CIVIL WARS.


Probably the fact that, in these wars, Yarmouth was Parliamentarian, had
no small influence in determining the men of Lowestoft to be so decidedly
Royalist.  We will not, however, deny them the praise, such as it is, of
being devotedly attached to the cause of the mis-guided Charles.
Lion-hearted, noble minded Oliver, whose character has been blackened by
the accumulated injustice of two hundred years, here, in the early part
of his career, performed essential service for the Parliament.  Hearing
that Sir John Pettus and others entertained a design of forming a
counter-association, to oppose that into which the Eastern counties had
entered on the part of the Parliament, he marched with the utmost
expedition to Lowestoft, surprised them and frustrated their purpose.

Whilst here, at least two honest men met together, who, whilst they
differed, could sympathise with, and understand each other.  Cromwell
sent for Sir John Pettus, and interrogated him respecting the design of
the counter-association; at the same time he requested that he (Sir John)
would inform him to which party he would adhere; Sir John replied that he
should act for the King.  Oliver highly applauded his frankness and
sincerity, and dismissed him with the remark, that he wished every other
man in the kingdom would be as open and sincere in declaring his real
sentiments and intentions. {16}

Cromwell, as was natural under the circumstances, took possession of guns
and ammunition to a considerable extent, and made several of the
principal inhabitants prisoners of war: the town also suffered from the
license given to the soldiers, who lived at free quarters and plundered
the inhabitants.

Yarmouth and Lowestoft having espoused opposite sides in this contest,
each party fitted out armed vessels for the annoyance of the other.
Lowestoft seemed at first to have the advantage, but Yarmouth, having
received assistance from Parliament, recovered its position.  In January,
1648, Captain Allen boldly sailed into Yarmouth harbour, avowedly to
destroy the town, but, from some cause or other, determined on sailing
away again without attempting to accomplish his object.  This story puts
us very much in mind of the feat, so pleasantly and graphically described
in the well known lines,—

    The King of France, with twice ten thousand men,
    Marched up the hill, and then marched down again.

Discretion is confessedly the better part of valour, and possibly the
Captain, in this instance, without prejudice to his character for
bravery, shewed that he was not destitute of prudence, a quality
indispensable in a good commander.



LOWESTOFT, THE DUTCH, ETC.


Admiral Sir Thomas Allen, a native of this town, first commenced
hostilities against the Dutch, in 1665, by attacking their Smyrna fleet.

In the great sea fight of June 3rd, in that year, off Lowestoft, Admiral
Allen, Admiral Utber, and Captain Utber, Lowestoft men, were all engaged.
The Duke of York commanded the English, Admiral Opdam the Dutch fleet.
In this action the Dutch had 18 ships taken and 14 sunk, exclusive of
those which were burnt or blown up; they lost 6000 men, including 2300
taken prisoners.  The English lost only the _Charity_ of 46 guns, had 250
men killed, and 340 wounded.  Our Lowestoft heroes were also present in
several other engagements, and aided in obtaining other splendid
victories in the further prosecution of this war.

Sir John Ashby, another native, was engaged in war with France, in the
reign of William III.

Other eminent Commanders belonged to this town, viz.—Sir Andrew Leake,
Vice-Admiral James Mighells, and Captain Thomas Arnold; their exploits
are mostly recorded on the monuments erected to their memory in the
church, to which we refer the reader.

The next section will refer to miscellaneous matters connected with



THE INTERNAL HISTORY OF THE TOWN.


And first we will notice some of the calamities with which it has been
visited; these have been principally of four kinds: Plague, Fires, Civil
dissentions, and Storms.

The _Plague_ was felt in this town very severely at several times:
probably in 1349, and certainly in 1547.  In 1579, twice as many people
died in Lowestoft as in 1578; and in 1579 the Plague raged at Yarmouth;
the inference is pretty clear, this unwonted mortality was occasioned by
the Plague.  In 1603, 280 persons were buried in five months; and in
1635, the number of deaths during the year was considerably above the
average, amounting to 170.

Several severe _Fires_ have happened in the town.  In 1606 the vicarage
was destroyed, and with it, the town records.  In March, 1644–45,
property was consumed by fire to the value of £10,300; several fires of
less magnitude have also done considerable damage.

The town could not engage in the various skirmishes with Yarmouth,
Cromwell, and others, without suffering some of the natural evil
consequences of _War_; but as we have already directed the attention of
our readers to the engagements themselves, and to the nature of the
contests in which the townsmen have striven, it may, perhaps, not be
presuming too much, to leave it to their own imagination to realise the
injury done to life and limb, and to public and private interests, by
this greatest scourge of all, with which a town or kingdom can be
visited.

It remains then for us to present a few memorials of the havoc committed
by that element, the contiguity of which to our town, gives it the
greatest charm in the eye of the visiter.

That mighty ocean which, for the most part, rolls so harmlessly on the
beach, is sometimes excited and whipt into a fury, and then scenes of
awful majesty, and sometimes of terror, are witnessed.  These _Storms_
are not so seldom experienced, as absolutely to necessitate the constant
repetition of the same story to illustrate their fearful consequences;
but there is _one_ which,—though it has been several times printed—as it
has been related by an eye-witness, with all that vividness with which an
eye-witness alone could relate it, we think it most suitable to present.
Our highly respected townsman, the late Robert Reeve, Esq., describing
the storm of December 1770, says:—

    “The dreadful storm on Wednesday the 19th instant, began about one
    o’clock in the morning, and continued with increasing violence till
    five; when the wind suddenly changed from the south-west to the
    north-west, and for two hours raged with a fury that was hardly ever
    equalled.  Anchors and cables proved too feeble a security for the
    ships, which instantly parting from them, and running on board each
    other, produced a confusion, neither to be described nor conceived:
    not a few immediately foundered; others were dismasted, and none
    escaped unhurt.  At daylight a scene of the most tragic distress was
    exhibited.  Those who first beheld it assert, that no less than
    eighteen ships were on the sand before this place at one and the same
    time; and many others were seen to sink.  Of those on the sand,
    one-half were entirely demolished, with their crews, before nine
    o’clock; the rest were preserved a few hours longer: but this
    dreadful pause served only to aggravate the destruction of the
    unhappy men who belonged to them, who betook themselves to the masts
    and rigging.  These continually breaking, eight or ten were not
    unfrequently seen to perish at a time, without the possibility of
    being assisted.  Fifteen only, about two in the afternoon, were taken
    off one of the wrecks; and about as many more were saved by taking to
    their boats, or getting on board other ships when they boarded each
    other.  It is impossible to collect with certainty how many lives, or
    how many ships, were lost in this terrible hurricane.  Twenty-five at
    least, perhaps thirty ships, and two hundred men, do not seem to be
    an exaggerated account.  This, indeed, is too small a calculation, if
    credit is to be given to one of the seamen, who declares he saw six
    vessels sink not far without the Stanford, among which was a large
    ship bound for Lisbon, with sixty or seventy passengers on board.
    One or two of the ships which are lost belong to Yarmouth, and one to
    Plymouth; but the generality are colliers, and belong to Sunderland,
    Shields, and other places in the north.

    “The concern this destructive scene occasioned to the spectators of
    it, was increased by the following circumstance.  When the masts of
    one of the ships, on which were eight or nine men, fell, two of them
    were some time afterwards seen struggling among the wreck; and at
    length, after unremitted efforts, got upon the hull.  In the
    afternoon, a pilot boat ventured from the shore; but it was found
    impracticable to administer any relief to the unfortunate sufferers,
    whom they were compelled to leave in their forlorn state; an
    approaching dark, cold, stormy night, heightened the horrors of their
    situation.  The next day, to the astonishment of every body, one of
    the men was observed to be alive; and about noon the boat again
    attempted to save him, and approached so near as to ask the poor
    fellow several questions; but the hull on which he was, being
    surrounded with wreck, and the sea running very high, it was
    impossible to rescue him from the impending danger.  He was at the
    stern of the ship: towards her head the sailors conceived it barely
    possible to board her with safety.  This they told the unhappy man
    they would attempt, and bid him walk to the place; but replying that
    he was too weak to change his situation, they were again obliged to
    leave him, making signs of his inconceivable distress.  The ensuing
    night put a period to his misfortunes and life.”

The following extracts from letters, written at the time, by the late
Rev. B. Ritson, and the late G. Everett, Esq., and inserted in the public
journals, have been supplied by Mr. H. B. Disney, one of the actors in
the several scenes described.  The letters indicate at once the humanity
of the writers, the fearful character of the danger to which the
unfortunate sufferers were exposed; and the heroic bravery of the hearts
which faced the storms, to rescue fellow men from watery graves.

The following accounts are by the late Rev. B. Ritson, many years Curate
of Lowestoft.

    “On Sunday morning last (Oct. 22nd, 1820) a heavy gale of wind from
    SS. W. was experienced at Lowestoft, which, towards noon, had
    increased almost to a hurricane; the whole sea was one continued
    foam, and a most tremendous surf broke upon the shore.  About twelve
    o’clock, the inhabitants of the town had the pain of witnessing the
    distress of a vessel, which, in attempting to gain the inner roads
    through the Stanford channel, struck upon a sand called the Beacon
    Ridge, and, in about seven minutes went to pieces, and all hands on
    board perished.  A second vessel soon after followed, and, in making
    the same attempt, met with the same melancholy fate, and all the crew
    were lost.  The loss of these two vessels, (names unknown) was so
    awfully sudden as to afford no time for assistance from shore.

    “A third vessel, a sloop called the _Sarah_ and _Caroline_, of
    Woodbridge, laden with coals, struck upon a sand called the Newcombe,
    and remained thereon with her mast standing; but, soon filling with
    water, the crew, consisting of five persons, took refuge in the
    shrouds.  Here their situation was most perilous; for as it was only
    half ebb tide, with the wind tremendously strong, no assistance from
    shore could be afforded them until the following flood, supposing the
    vessel should hold together so long.  In the mean time, every
    necessary preparation was made to render assistance, as soon as such
    an attempt should be in any measure practicable.  The Lowestoft
    life-boat, belonging to the “Suffolk Humane Society,” was got out and
    manned under the direction of Lieutenant T. S. Carter, R.N. and when
    launched, was towed a considerable way to the southward, to bring her
    on a bearing with the vessel in distress.  Still, however, when the
    tow was let go, the boat fell to leeward of the Wreck; and it was not
    until the tide began to flow, that she made any way towards attaining
    her object.  At length, after the most persevering and strenuous
    exertions, she succeeded in gaining the wreck, and providentially
    took the poor fellows from the shrouds, just as one of them was about
    to drop from his hold through fatigue and cold.

    “In approaching the sloop, the life-boat passed, and was hailed by a
    brig, coal laden, which, on her return she boarded, and found in a
    sinking state.  She proved to be the _George_, of London, John Dixon,
    master, with seven hands on board.  These were also taken into the
    life-boat; and, about six o’clock in the evening, the whole twelve
    persons were safely landed on the beach at Lowestoft, without the
    smallest accident whatever, amidst the congratulatory cheers and
    greetings of the anxious multitude who had been witnesses of the
    distress.  The sloop’s mast fell about an hour after the men left it,
    and the brig sunk soon after.

    “Too much praise cannot be given to Lieut. Carter, the pilots, and
    men on board the lifeboat, for their cool, steady, and intrepid
    conduct on this very trying emergency; to whom individually the
    Suffolk Humane Society have returned their thanks.” {26}

    “On Friday, the 13th of January, 1815, at daybreak some of the
    Lowestoft Boatmen being on the look out, perceived a wreck lying
    among the breakers on the Corton sand, otherwise called the home
    sand, the wreck bearing E. S. E. from the Lowestoft Upper
    Light-house, and distant from shore about two miles.  Three of the
    pilot yawls were soon manned and put off, to visit the wreck to
    ascertain whether there were any persons on board, and if so, to
    render whatever necessary assistance might be in their power.  Upon
    approaching the wreck, the people in the yawls discovered three men
    on it, but at the same time found, to their great mortification, that
    by reason of a tremendous sea upon the sand, and the high surf and
    broken water surrounding, and frequently breaking over the wreck, it
    would be impossible for any yawl to get nearer without manifest
    hazard of being dashed to pieces.  A signal being thrown out by one
    of the yawls that there were persons on the wreck, the life boat was
    got out and manned with the utmost expedition.  The alacrity with
    which the brave seamen {27} leaped on board the life-boat is scarcely
    to be described; after encountering much difficulty and danger in
    passing through the breakers, they came near to the vessel in sight
    of hundreds of spectators, who, from the heights were beholding with
    astonishment their admirable nautical skill and dauntless courage; at
    the same time trembling between hope and fear for their safety, and
    lifting up a silent fervent prayer for the successful termination of
    their perilous undertaking.  Heaven in its mercy smiled propitious on
    their endeavours, and rewarded the exertions of these brave men with
    success, and they had the heartfelt joy of bringing the three
    shipwrecked mariners to shore without any accident.  The sloop was
    the _Jeanie_ of Hull, laden with potatoes, and bound to London.  She
    sailed from Hull on Thursday morning, and about twelve at night, when
    off Hasborough Gat, sprung a leak which gained so fast upon the crew
    that they were obliged to run on the sand to prevent her foundering.”

The late George Everitt, Esq. writes as follows—

    “On the 26th of January, 1842, about one P.M., a vessel was observed
    to be in great distress, on the sand called the Inner Newcome, the
    wind at the time blowing a hurricane, and the sea running “mountains
    high.”  The Lowestoft life-boat with a crew of nineteen men,
    commanded by Lieut. T. S. Carter, R.N., assisted by Mr. H. B. Disney,
    Trinity pilot, was most promptly launched, and proceeded to her
    relief.  By the greatest exertion and skill, a communication, by
    means of a life line was established with the distressed men, who had
    fled to the rigging for safety; the sea at the time making quite over
    the life-boat, and filling her with water.  Mr. Disney was washed
    overboard, but providentially did not loose his hold of the safety
    line, and was again drawn into the boat.  Seven out of the eight men
    on board the wreck were hauled through the surf into the life-boat, a
    distance of perhaps twenty yards.  At this time, the anchor of the
    life-boat came home, and with great difficulty and danger, the boat
    was sheered under the bowsprit of the wreck, when the cable was cut,
    and she then proceeded to the shore full of water, landing her own
    crew and the rescued men in safety.  Lieut. Carter was carried in a
    very exhausted state to a house near, where the usual means having
    been resorted to, he was, after a few hours, so far restored as to be
    able to return to his residence in a chaise.

    “Meantime, the Pakefield life-boat, manned by a crew endowed with the
    same high courage and good seamanship, which had characterized their
    neighbours, made further effort to save the poor fellow who was left
    on the wreck, and had the happiness of rescuing him from a watery
    grave. {29}

    “Our Society, assisted by our brave seamen, has again the high
    satisfaction of being made the means of saving the lives of eight
    fellow creatures; and at a Committee meeting summoned for that
    purpose, on the morning of the following day, gave its “mite” of
    reward to the crews of the boats engaged in the perilous service, and
    their hearty thanks to Lieut. Carter and Mr. Disney.  The Lowestoft
    life-boat sustained damage to a considerable amount.

    “The Suffolk Humane Society (President, Sir T. S. Gooch, Bart.,)
    maintains and keeps in repair the two life-boats, and gives a stated
    sum to the crews whenever called into service, out of funds raised
    entirely by private subscriptions from Lowestoft and its
    neighbourhood, but which cannot afford adequate reward to the men for
    their intrepid service.”

The preceding quotations have sufficiently shewn the value of the
Life-boat, and of that society by which it is maintained; no other
eloquence, than that of such facts, is needed to commend the society to
the kind consideration of the generous and humane.

Connected with the life-boat there are other contrivances, the object of
which is, to render assistance to the shipwrecked mariner, when boats
cannot approach sufficiently near: they are known as



CAPTAIN MANBY’S APPARATUS.


In a note in his 69th page, Gillingwater says: “The most probable method
of rescuing seamen from those unfortunate situations, that I can think
of, is that of a kite.  When the storm is so abated that a boat is able
to approach pretty near the wreck, let a line (which may soon after
easily convey a strong rope) be carried by the kite over the vessel, and
then let fall.  Thus a communication may be obtained between the wreck
and the boat, and by that means, the seaman may be drawn through the
water from the ship to the boat.”  Now, that which the kind hearted man
threw out as a possibility, has been shewn to be practicable; a
communication is obtained by means of this apparatus; a rope is attached
to a ball which is projected from a mortar, and thrown over the vessel in
distress: the apparatus is kept in the boat house, which is situated on
the beach, near the lower part of the town.  During the summer season,
visiters are sometimes gratified by a sight of the method in which this
apparatus effects its object.

We now direct attention to various improvements and benevolent
devices.—The Light-houses, Harbour, etc.



THE LIGHT-HOUSES


are at once highly useful, and present striking objects of interest to
the visiter.

The Upper Light-house is a neat and ornamental building, situated at the
northern extremity of the High street, on a commanding eminence, and may
be seen to advantage by a person entering the town from the Yarmouth
side.  It was erected in 1676, by the Brethren of the Trinity House, and
subsequently repaired and improved in the years 1778, 1825, and 1840.  It
is fitted up with large plated reflectors in a lantern of plate glass.

                     [Picture: High Light, Lowestoft]

The Lower Light situated on the beach, towards the south of the town,
consists simply of a lantern, fitted with lamps and reflectors, as in the
case of the upper light, elevated on a framework of wood; it has received
this structure in order that it may be easily removed: it has been found
necessary sometimes to change its place, as the sands—to warn against
danger from which, the light-houses have been erected—are continually
shifting.  Mariners steering in a line with these two lights, can safely
pass between the Holme and Barnard sands, the channel between which, is
not more than a quarter of a mile wide.

The purposes now answered by the light-houses were, prior to 1676,
imperfectly effected by two beacons, one of which stood on the site now
occupied by the upper light, the other stood on the north side of the
passage going down the Swan score.

There is a Floating Light called the ‘Stanford,’ anchored upon the
Stanford sand; it is fitted up with two lamps, which are suspended upon
two masts raised for the purpose.  This light answers a similar purpose
to that of the others.  In foggy weather, when the lights are not
visible, a gong is beaten at short intervals, to warn vessels of their
approach to the sands.

The instructions given to the persons superintending the lights are very
minute.  The lanterns and reflectors must be kept constantly cleaned, and
the lamps must be trimmed every few hours; a book is kept in which the
time when the lamps are trimmed is regularly entered.  The persons who
attend to the floating light are constantly on board the vessel during
the time they are in charge: there are two sets of men, (six in a set)
each set having remained a month is then relieved.



THE HARBOUR AND RAILWAY.


The Waveney originally emptied itself into the sea between Lowestoft and
Kirkley, but being a shallow stream, could not resist the gradual
formation of a mound of sand raised by the prevailing east winds, which,
in time, effectually cut off the communication between the sea and Lake
Lothing.  At spring tides, however, the sea would frequently break over
the barrier, rush into the lake and over the low lands, carrying away
whatever was not sufficiently durable to resist its torrent.  Mutford
Bridge has been twice carried away by the waters of the sea, though at a
distance of two miles from the beach.  In 1831 the river and the sea were
again united.  The harbour was formed under the auspices of Mr. Cubitt,
at the estimated cost of £87,000.  This harbour and navigation afterwards
fell into the hands of Government, and were purchased of the Exchequer
Loan Commissioners in 1842, by Messrs. J. Cleveland, G. and W. Everitt,
J. S. Lincoln, J. W. Hickling, and W. Roe.  These Gentlemen made various
improvements, and kept possession till October 1844, when they sold the
property to S. M. Peto, Esq.

The act for improving the harbour and forming the Railway, was passed in
the early part of 1845.  Messrs. Stephenson and Bidder were appointed the
Engineers in chief, Mr. Hodges the resident Engineer, and Mr. Peto, the
general contractor.  In the enterprise of Mr. Peto originated this great
work.  Having purchased the harbour and navigation in 1844, he, with
other gentlemen, chiefly in the neighbourhood, formed for the above
purpose a company with a capital of £200,000.

The new Harbour of refuge is formed by two immense piers, extending for
1300 feet into the sea, enclosing the old harbour and an area of 20
acres.  The width between the piers, and consequently of the harbour is
800 feet, and the average depth of water in it is 20 feet.  The old
entrance within the piers will be cleared away up to the stone work, so
that there will be a spacious basin, large enough to accommodate 600 or
700 vessels.  The piers consist of a stupendous timber framework,
(creasoted by Bethel’s patent process to keep out the worm,) on each side
of the harbour, 14 feet high above the water, and 30 feet in width,
filled up with immense blocks of stone from one to six tons in weight;
these sides present a solid mass of masonry.  As the thousands of tons of
stone required have to be brought from a great distance in vessels, and
by railway, the filling in goes on slowly.  When this work is completed,
a platform or flooring of four-inch planking, will be made on the top of
each pier.

The north pier, after extending straight out east for 700 feet, bends to
the south-east for 300 feet, and then bends again to the south for 300
feet more making in all 1300 feet.  This pier is intended entirely for
business; a double tramway has been laid along it with a large turning
table at each bend.

The south pier extends from the shore for 1300 feet straight out into the
sea, and is intended for a grand promenade.  The head of each pier is
circular, and 60 feet in diameter; Light-houses have been erected in the
centre of the circle at the head of each pier, and at night a brilliant
red light is exhibited.

The entrance to the harbour between the two piers is towards the
south-east; it is 160 feet wide, with a depth of 21 feet at low water.

Beyond the south pier a sea wall has been built, with towers of flint and
stone, and at the back of it, a broad embankment has been formed for the
esplanade, which is a quarter of a mile in length, and 25 feet wide, and
affords a splendid view of the sea.  The fine Hotel at the northern
extremity of the esplanade, presents, in its internal arrangements, a
study for the lovers of the curious and the comfortable.  Its contiguity
to the railway station and the harbour, will cause it to be greatly
frequented.

The inner harbour has been dredged to a depth of 14 feet in the channel
at low water, and this dredging will be extended up to Mutford bridge.  A
substantial machine has lately been built, for the purpose of excavating
the harbour, which, by her powerful aid, will be rendered accessible to
vessels of 15 feet draught, at any state of the tide.  She is of 200 tons
burthen; her engines are of 20 horse power, capable of working in 20 feet
of water; she is calculated to raise 1000 tons of soil per day.  Her
form, engines, and mode of operations, are in accordance with the latest
improvements of the age.

The new wharfing, the various buildings, the offices, engine houses,
machinery for sawing timber, work shops, creasote works, coke ovens, coal
works, warehouses, stations, and about six lines of railway branching
from the piers on the north side of the inner harbour, occupy a space of
about sixty acres; altogether this improvement will present one of the
finest combinations of railway and sea communication in the country.

The Railway passes from the terminus near the harbour, over Lake Lothing,
and through several Villages till it joins the Norwich and Yarmouth line
at Reedham.  Thus, when all arrangements are completed, vessels may
unlade their merchandize at the pier, it may be immediately placed in the
railway carriage and transported to Norwich, London, or any part of
England with the greatest facility.



THE INFIRMARY


is situated at the western extremity of the town on the road leading to
the church.  The society by which this building has been erected was
formed in 1822, but the building itself was not erected till 1839.  It
comprises two spacious wards, well ventilated and warmed, and other
necessary conveniences.  It has attached to it, a small museum of morbid
anatomy, presented by W. C. Worthington, Esq., Surgeon to the Infirmary.
Funds are now much required for providing suitable food for the
distressed inmates, whose means frequently do not allow them to procure
what is necessary for them, whilst receiving the medical assistance
afforded by the institution.



THE FISHERMEN’S HOSPITAL


is a neat series of six cottages built below the town, for aged and
infirm fishermen.  The cost of the whole erection was £600.



ALMS-HOUSES.


The giver of two houses (formerly four, but two were destroyed by fire in
1707) in the Fair lane, originally part of the parish work-house, is
unknown.  The giver of a house towards the south end of the High street,
is also unknown.

James Hocker, a labourer, who died in 1710, gave his _All_, about £120;
with part of which, a stone and brick house in the Fair lane was bought,
which is now occupied by such persons as the churchwardens appoint.

Martin Brown, merchant, of Rotterdam, left a sum of money, under the
management of Mr. Wilde, sufficient to erect four houses for poor
persons; with which the alms-houses at the west end of Bell lane were
erected in 1716.

Before leaving this division of our history, we direct our readers to an
episode or two of widely opposite characters; the first is



LOWESTOFT AND THE WITCHES.


One of the _dark_ spots resting upon the townspeople of more ancient
times, is the share some of them took in the persecution of the
“threescore witches” who were hanged in Suffolk.  In 1663, Mr. Samuel
Pacey commenced a prosecution against Rose Cullender and Amy Duny, two
poor old widows, for witchcraft practised—as it was said—on his two
daughters, children, respectively of the ages of eleven and nine years.
After being placed in the stocks, and suffering other indignities, they
were formally indicted at the lent assizes, held at Bury, on the 10th of
March, 1664, before Sir Matthew Hale, Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer,
for bewitching, amongst others, the aforesaid children.  Being arraigned,
they pleaded not guilty; but after a long course of the most absurd
evidence, the poor creatures were found guilty, and sentenced to death.
They suffered accordingly, on Monday, the 17th of March following.  It
appears, that the good sense of many persons present rejected the
evidence, and they would very probably have been acquitted, had not the
learned opinion of Dr. Brown, a physician of Norwich, who was desired by
the court to give his sentiments concerning the prisoners, turned the
scale against them.  The Doctor stated “that he was clearly of opinion
that the two girls were bewitched; for that in Denmark there had been
lately a great discovery of witches, and from some books that had been
published in that kingdom, it appears that the witches there had used the
same method of afflicting persons as had been practised by the
prisoners.”

We have next to invite our readers to consider



LOWESTOFT IN CONNEXION WITH ROYALTY.


This town is not like common towns, obliged to be content with rendering
a general homage to the throne, but was part of the ancient demesne of
the crown, and has in consequence been entitled to many privileges,
particularly exemptions from toll, stallage, chiminage, pontage, pannage,
picage, murrage, lastage, and passage.  These, in the growth of the
nation have become obsolete.  One profitable exemption, however, the
townsmen yet enjoy, that is, from serving on juries, either at the
assizes or quarter sessions.

Lowestoft has once seen a king: George II. landed here on his return from
Hanover, January, 14th, 1736–7, and when the royal barge approached the
shore, a body of sailors belonging to the town waded into the sea, took
the barge and its freight upon their shoulders, and carried it to the
beach.  J. Jex, Esq., with his carriage, met his majesty on the shore,
and acted as coachman on the occasion.  His majesty (as appears from a
notice on the staircase) was entertained at the house opposite the town
hall, now occupied by Mr. Chaston, draper.

The town was favoured with another royal visit,

    “That is to say it would have been,
    If it had not been prevented.”

for the royal yacht which brought to England Charlotte, the consort of
George III., would have landed here, as George II. did on his return from
Hanover, had not the wind suddenly changed.



THE RELIGIOUS HISTORY OF THE TOWN


next claims our notice, and as the religious denominations are intimately
connected with their several places of worship, the places and people
will he spoken of together.

1.  _The Episcopalians_.  In this parish, as in most others, episcopacy
has flourished under its two forms, Romish and Protestant, and the parish
church has been its home, which even now presents many mementos of the
time when Romanism held an undivided sovereignty over the minds and
hearts of the inhabitants: but there are records and traditions of places
of worship of earlier date than the present parish church, which we must
first notice.  There was Good Cross chapel, situated in the south-east
part of the town, probably near the lane, called to this day chapel lane;
this has been washed away by the sea.  There was also another chapel
which occupied the site of the present town hall; it was originally built
on arches, and was but a poor thatched building, which, after having been
long disused, was fitted up in 1570, as a place of protestant worship,
for the convenience of the inhabitants.  In 1698 this chapel was
re-built, since which time it has undergone various alterations, and has
recently been converted into a town hall, in front of which is the town
chamber, where parish business is transacted.  The building may be
instantly recognised by the clock, which is attached to its front,
projecting over the street.

Near the town hall may be seen the fragments of a flintstone building, in
which exist the weather mouldings of one or two arches, apparently in the
style of Henry VII.  Gillingwater conjectures that it is the remnant of a
cell belonging to the priory of St. Bartholomew in London, to which the
Impropriation of Lowestoft belonged; other appearances in the immediate
neighbourhood, and especially the discovery of the arms of the priory, on
a piece of timber dug up there a few years ago, seem to favour the
conjecture.

Having now spoken of the ecclesiastical buildings, which either no longer
exist, or have been appropriated to common purposes, we turn to the
parish church and matters connected particularly with it.

The benefice of Lowestoft is a vicarage, endowed with the great tithes,
through the exertions of the Rev. John Tanner, a former vicar, who, with
great trouble and perseverance, collected money for the purchase of the
Impropriation, which purchase he effected in 1721.

                   [Picture: St. Margaret’s, Lowestoft]



THE CHURCH.


The church ‘standing by the roadside in its own little garden of
Gethsemane,’ is a fine old building dedicated to St. Margaret, situated
about half a mile westward of the town, towards which all the streets on
the west side tend, as to a common centre.  The present building is
supposed to have been founded about the middle of the fourteenth century,
(on the site of a more ancient fabric, to which the tower, from its
inferior proportions and mean construction, is concluded to have
belonged,) though much of the tracery which enriches its windows, is
supposed to be referable to a later era.

The church is with good reason supposed to have been built by the funds
supplied from the treasury of the priory of St. Bartholomew, to which
establishment the impropriation of the town belonged.  The dimensions of
the church are as follows:—Its length, 182 feet; width, 62 feet; height,
43 feet.  It comprises a nave, chancel, two aisles, north and south
porches, and a square tower, surmounted by a tapering spire of timber,
covered with lead, the extreme height of which is 120 feet.  On the roof
of the south porch are to be seen the popish emblems of the Holy Trinity,
and of our Lord’s passion; and over the porch is a room called the “maids
chamber,” formerly inhabited by two maiden sisters who lived a recluse
life, and who left money for the sinking of two wells, situated between
the church and the infirmary, called the Basket Wells; Basket being a
corruption of Bess and Kate, the names of the donors.  Under the chancel
floor is a well wrought crypt of stone, entered by a winding staircase
from the interior of the north wall; and at the west end of the nave is a
long narrow arch, supposed to have been originally used as a penitent’s
porch, agreeably to the custom of the ancient church.

The great east window is filled with stained glass, painted, and
presented by Mr. Robert Allen, a bookseller of Lowestoft, whose first
attempt at staining may be seen over his shop, in the High street, now
occupied by Mr. Thos. Crowe.

A large brass eagle, formerly used as a lecturn, stands with outspread
wings in the chancel, supporting an old Black letter Bible.

The Font is very elegant, but has been much defaced.  The rich series of
figures with which it was, and still is, partially adorned, were
mutilated by one Francis Jessope, who, with a commission from the Earl of
Manchester to take away from gravestones all inscriptions on which he
found “_orate pro anima_” (pray for the soul), tore up most of the
ancient brasses which were in the church, and visited the images of the
saints with his peculiar displeasure.

One inscription escaped his search.

               Orate p.aia dne Margarete Parker qe obitt po
            die marciz ao dni mo bco bizo cui aie ppiciet de.

It has frequently been our lot to hear the most opprobrious epithets
applied to the Iconoclasts of the times of Reformation; but, however much
we may regret the indiscriminate manner in which they performed their
mission, we must remember, that “their backs were yet sore with the
burdens which had been laid upon them; their indignation fierce at the
impostures and rapine which they had actually witnessed: theirs would
have been a lukewarm zeal indeed, had it not urged them to abolish even
the innocent memorials of that wickedness, which had been wrought in
their eyesight, on every hill and under every tree.  Another period
succeeds, in which the vices of a system are no longer distinctly
remembered, and contemplated only through the softening medium of
antiquity, and the services of the Iconoclast and the motives on which he
acted are all forgotten; and he is regarded with mere horror as an
incarnate spirit of destruction.”  {48}

In the chancel lies buried Thomas Scroope, Bishop of Dromore in Ireland,
and vicar of this parish.  His effigy in brass, habited in his episcopal
robes, with a crosier in one hand, and his pastoral staff in the other,
was formerly to be seen on a large stone, surrounded by a
circumscription, and ornamented with divers heraldic devices, but all
have long since disappeared.

He was first a monk of the order of St. Benedict; passed to the
profession of a Dominican; then became a Carmelite, and preached the
gospel in hair and sackcloth round the country; then became an Anchorite
and so continued twenty years; was made Bishop of Dromore by the Pope;
then quitted his bishoprick; came into these eastern counties, and went
abroad in the neighbourhood barefoot, preaching, teaching, and dispensing
alms; and died in Lowestoft, January 15th, 1491, at the age of a hundred
years.

In the church there are many Monuments, the inscriptions of which will
interest and amuse the reader; some are simple narrative, others are
written in the inflated style peculiar to the age in which they were
composed; most of them tell their own tales, it is not necessary,
therefore, to transfer them to our pages.  One, however, very short, begs
to be noticed; it is found in the middle aisle; a small brass simply
bears the initials,

                   [Picture: Brass with initials R. I.]

On the stone which bears this brass, there was formerly the effigy of a
person standing in a praying position, with an inscription underneath,
but these brasses are all stripped from their matrices.  This is most
probably the index to the grave of Robert Inglesse or Ingloss, Esq., who
died in 1365, and was buried in this church.  This, from its antiquity,
is worth a special notice.

“In the churchyard are a few flowers and much green grass; and daily the
shadow of the church spire, with its long tapering finger, counts the
tombs, representing a dial plate of human life, on which the hours and
minutes are the graves of men.”  Here is the tomb of John Barker, Esq.;
{50} the resting place of Sir J. E. Smith, the celebrated botanist; the
grave of the Rev. James Alderson, a dissenting minister; and the dust of
the Rev. B. Ritson, an estimable clergyman: here, all ranks and
conditions of men mingle their undistinguishable dust; here, are high and
low, rich and poor, together; here, it seems as though all strifes are
hushed and discords forgotten—one stone, however, close to the wall, on
the west side of the churchyard, lifts its querulous head to perpetuate
the remembrance of a family disagreement; it is raised to the memory of
Charles Ward, and informs the visiter, who goes to meditate among the
tombs that his heart may be made better, that “it is not erected by Susan
his (_i.e._ Mr. Ward’s) wife; she erected a stone to John Salter, her
second husband, forgetting the affection of her first husband,” it
moreover begs that “no one may disturb his bones.”

At the east side of the churchyard and towards the northern corner, may
be found two or three versions of the sailor’s favourite epitaph, wherein
“Boreas’s blasts” are very powerful ingredients.

The other building in which worship is conducted in the Episcopalian
mode, is St. Peters Chapel, which is a neat building, in the street
leading from the south part of the town to the Beccles road.  The first
stone was laid on the 6th of August, 1832, by the Rev. F. Cunningham, the
vicar of Lowestoft.  The building was consecrated by Dr. C. Sumner, Lord
Bishop of Winchester, on the 15th of August, 1833.

Church rates are not levied in this parish, the lands belonging to the
church being amply sufficient to keep it in repair.  This being the case,
those unseemly feuds, which frequently arise in parishes where this
obnoxious tax is imposed, do not trouble the inhabitants.  Suckling
wishes it to be understood that “church rates have been occasionally
raised,” and quotes only one instance, and that, as far back as 1716: the
memory of this might as well have been buried in the “tomb of all the
Capulets.”

The deceased Vicars of note, are Scroope, before mentioned; William
Whiston, who succeeded Sir Isaac Newton at Cambridge; John Tanner,
brother of Bishop Tanner, who purchased the impropriation; Robert Potter,
the translator of the three great writers of greek drama.

2.  _The Independents_ have long had a place of worship in the town.
Before the erection of their present chapel in 1695, they worshipped in a
barn, situated in the Blue Anchor lane, where the Rev. Mr. Emlyn, a
learned man, was for a short time minister: since that time there has
been a long succession of ministers, and the congregation has experienced
many vicissitudes.  The chapel has, within the last few years, been
altered and greatly improved, and has now a very respectable appearance.
It is situated in the High street, near the old market plain.

3.  _The Wesleyan Society_ in this town was formed in 1761, under the
auspices of the Rev. John Wesley, who first preached on a spot of ground
in Martin’s score, near the Star hotel.

In 1776 their present place of worship was opened on November the 19th,
when the Rev. John Wesley preached in the morning, from Rev. xx. 10; and
in the afternoon, from Isaiah lxvi. 8 and 9.  The society is in a
flourishing condition.  Their place of worship is situated in Frary lane,
at the back of the Crown and Anchor hotel.

4.  _The Baptists_ have a chapel opposite the vicarage.  It was built in
1813, chiefly through the generosity of R. Kemp, Esq. of Yarmouth.  S. M.
Peto, Esq., M. P., has taken great interest in the prosperity of the
cause, has built a commodious school room, and contemplates the erection
of a larger chapel in a more convenient situation.  The Rev. J. E. Dovey
is the present minister.

5.  _The Primitive Methodists_ have a place of worship situated on the
beach, (near the bottom of Denny’s score,) among that class of the
inhabitants who are generally least disposed to go in quest of religious
instruction, and here they usefully employ themselves in their important
work.



SCHOOLS.


The Public Schools in the town provided for the poor are numerous, and
generally well conducted.  The principal are Wilde’s, Annot’s, and the
British School.

JOHN WILDE left several estates, together with the rents and profits
thereof, to be applied for a virtuous and learned schoolmaster, who shall
teach forty boys to write and read and cast accounts, and shall also
teach them the Latin tongue.

THOMAS ANNOT, merchant of this town, also left money for founding a
grammar school at Lowestoft; and by a decree, given in Gillingwater, it
is ordered “that the same school shall consist of a schoolmaster, learned
in the art and knowledge of grammar, and able to instruct and teach the
rules and principles thereof, and the Latin tongue, and other things
incident, necessary, and belonging to the said art, to be master, tutor,
and teacher of the scholars in the said school, consisting of forty
scholars and not above, to be taught and instructed within the said
school.”

Henry Wilde, known by the name of the Arabian Tailor, was master of this
school.  He was a great proficient in the oriental languages, and was
sent by Dean Prideaux to Oxford, where he gained a poor living by
teaching languages; he afterwards removed to London, where he died.  Mr.
Rogers is the present master.

The British School is a neat building, on the south turnpike, which was
opened in 1844, on the liberal principle of educating the children of
all, without distinction of sect or party.  It is principally supported
by the Independents and Wesleyans, assisted by the munificence of S. M.
Peto, Esq. M.P.  Mr. M. Hinde is the efficient master.

Sabbath Schools are connected with most of the places of worship in the
town.



THE FISHERIES.


At present there are two fishing seasons during the year.

The Herring season begins about a fortnight before Michaelmas, and
continues till Martinmas.  At the beginning of the season the boats sail
off to sea, about thirteen leagues north-east of Lowestoft, to meet the
shoals of fish.  Having arrived on the fishing ground, the fishermen
shoot their nets, (extending about 2,200 yards in length, and eight in
depth, which, by simple means, are made to swim in a position
perpendicular to the surface of the water,) in which the fish are
entangled.  As soon as the fish are brought on shore they are taken to
the fish houses and salted; they remain in salt two or three days, are
then washed; then spitted; (_i.e._ an osier wand, about four feet long,
is thrust through the gills of as many as can hang freely upon it,) the
spits are then hung upon rafters, with which the upper part of the fish
houses are fitted up; fires of oak billet are made on the floors of the
houses, by which the fish are at once dried and smoked; the herrings hang
thus about a fortnight, and then they are fit for market. {56}

The Mackerel season begins about the middle of May, and continues to the
end of June.  At the beginning of this season the boats sail to the
north-east, in order to meet the fish at the beginning of their annual
revolution round the British Isles.  A blustering stormy season is best
suited to the successful prosecution of this fishery, for only then do
the fish rise in large quantities, within reach of the nets, the meshes
of which are larger than those used in the herring fishery.  The fish are
generally brought in every day.

Small boats called ‘along shore boats,’ generally the property of those
who use them, are employed in catching whatever fish will come to their
nets; these are speedily brought into the town, and disposed of for the
consumption of the inhabitants.

There were formerly two other fisheries, the North sea and Iceland
fisheries, but they have long since been entirely neglected.



THE TITHE OF FISH.


The vicar of the parish makes a claim of half a guinea from each boat on
its return from the herring fishery; and half a dole,—_i.e._ one
three-hundredth part of the whole catch—from the mackerel boats at the
close of their season.  The legality of these claims is disputed, and, in
the case of the latter, legal proceedings were instituted in 1845, by the
Rev. F. Cunningham against Mr. John Roberts, who declined payment of the
demand.  Those persons who are interested in the affair may obtain a
sight of the argument, as maintained by the legal adviser of the
plaintiff, in Suckling’s History, _in loco_; and of the argument, as
maintained by the defendant, in a Lecture delivered and published at the
time, by the Rev. J. Browne.



THE BATTERIES.


Before Kett’s insurrection in the year 1549, there were six pieces of
cannon for the defence of the town; these were carried off by the
insurgents to batter the walls of Yarmouth.  To replace these, Queen
Elizabeth presented to the people of Lowestoft four pieces of cannon and
two slings; these appear to have been carried away by Cromwell in 1643,
but afterwards he found it necessary to build a fort and plant four guns
upon it; some time after, the platform on which these guns were placed
was destroyed by the sea, but the guns were rescued; after which, another
platform was erected which shared the same fate; on this occasion also
the guns were preserved.

In later times it was found expedient to build three Batteries; that on
the south was begun and finished in 1782.  The fort consists of a ditch
mounted with _chevaux de frize_; the magazine (in the north-west angle of
the fort, thirty feet long and twelve broad,) is sunk beneath the surface
of the earth, and is bomb proof.  To the east of this fort is the
promenade, and the green known by the name of the Battery Green.

In the same year a fort was erected at the north end of the town, about
one hundred yards to the north of the light-house; this battery was
intended to act with another erected during the same year on the beach,
near the ness, the bounds and breastwork of which are still clearly
visible.



THE PORCELAIN MANUFACTORY.


There was, some years since, a manufactory of Porcelain or China-ware in
this town, but it has fallen away and become extinct.  Specimens of the
ware may be frequently purchased in the cottages in the neighbourhood.



THE SAVINGS BANK


was established in 1818, for the purpose of affording to sailors,
journeymen, and others, especially to the females of Lowestoft and its
vicinity, a secure place where they may deposit the small savings they
may be able to make from their wages; which deposits are repaid with
interest at £2 18s. 10d. per centum per annum, agreeably to certain
rules.

The office for this Institution is kept at the town chamber in the town
hall, and is open every Wednesday from twelve till one o’clock.  Mr. T.
Bird is the clerk.



THE MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION


was established in June 1843, for the following purposes—_first_, the
diffusion of useful knowledge; _secondly_, the promotion amongst the
inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, of that harmony and good
feeling which ought to exist among all men.

The means used for attaining these objects are—a library for circulation;
the delivery of lectures on literary and scientific subjects; and the
adoption of such other means as, from time to time, are deemed expedient
by the committee of management.  The library is increasing both in the
number and value of its books.  The subscription is one shilling per
quarter.  S. S. Brame, Esq., is the President of the Institution.



THE REPOSITORY SALE.


Annually a Bazaar is held in the bath rooms, to which the ladies in the
neighbourhood contribute principally articles of their own manufacture.
The proceeds of the sale are usually divided between the Church schools
and the Infirmary funds.



CRICKET CLUBS.


During the summer evenings the denes usually present a very lively
appearance; the members of the several cricket clubs are practising, not
only for their own amusement, but that they may be prepared to meet other
gentlemen who, residing in the neighbouring towns, cherish a friendly
rivalry in the art of bat and ball.

                                * * * * *



THOMAS NASH


the satirist, who flourished in the reign of Elizabeth, was born at
Lowestoft.  He wrote a play called “Lenton Stuffe; or, the Praise of the
Red Herring,” published in 1599, in quarto; he was also “the author of a
slight dramatic piece, mostly in blank verse, but partly in prose, and
having also some lyrical poetry interspersed, called ‘Summers’ Last Will
and Testament,’ which was exhibited before Queen Elizabeth at Norwich, in
1592; and he also assisted Marlow, in his tragedy of ‘Dido, Queen of
Carthage,’ which, although not printed till 1594, is supposed to have
been written before 1590.  But his satire was of a higher order than his
dramatic talent.  There never was, perhaps, poured forth such a rushing
and roaring torrent of wit, ridicule, and invective, as in the rapid
succession of pamphlets which he published in the year 1589, against the
Puritans and their famous champion (or rather knot of champions) who bore
the name of Martin Mar-Prelate; unless in those in which he began, two
years after, to assail poor Gabriel Harvey, his persecution of, and
controversy with whom, lasted a much longer time, till, indeed, the
Archbishop of Canterbury (Whitgift) interfered, in 1597, to restore the
peace of the realm, by an order that all Harvey’s and Nash’s books should
be taken wherever they might be found, ‘and that none of the said books
be ever printed hereafter.’” {62}




ENVIRONS OF LOWESTOFT.


The neighbourhood of Lowestoft is by no means destitute of attractions,
and, in its vicinity, visiters may enjoy many pleasant rides and rambles.

To the north is Gunton, with its neat little church and churchyard, the
pleasantest approach to which is by the first lane leading out from the
road which skirts the common on the west.  The church has been repaired
and refitted under the direction of the Rev. F. C. Fowler, the present
Incumbent; a fine specimen of the Norman doorway, on the north side,
deserves notice.

In the vicinity of the church are the remains of Gunton Old Hall, now
much altered and improved; at a short distance from which, is the new
Hall, the residence of R. C. Fowler, Esq.  On leaving the churchyard, a
road to the right will conduct the pedestrian to the turnpike road again.

If, instead of turning off in the direction of Gunton, the rambler should
pursue the road on the west of the common, he will be struck with the
beauty of the new marine abode of Holland Birkett, Esq., a little beyond
which, is the residence of the Rev. F. C. Fowler, both delightfully
situated on the edge of the cliff.  The architecture of the former is a
combination of the Swiss and Elizabethan styles.  The garden and grounds
are tastefully laid out, and will amply repay the stranger for a visit.

Further north is the village of Corton, the church of which is a ruin;
public worship is, however, performed in a portion of it, which has been
fitted up for that purpose.  The tower is ninety feet high.  To the west
are the Corton Cliffs, which present a commanding view of the ocean and
its shipping, of which latter there is usually a plentiful supply.

On return, the sandy beach and the rabbit warren under the cliff, offer a
choice of walks; if the latter be chosen, it will lead past the Warren
house, along a path as pleasant as any in the neighbourhood, and
eventually bring the traveller out near the upper light-house.

The village of Blundeston lies to the west of the Yarmouth road; here are
seen the house belonging to J. Chapman, Esq., and Blundeston House, the
delightful residence of Charles Steward, Esq., which, with its grounds,
was once the property of the Rev. Norton Nicholls, and a place admired
and frequently visited by the poet Gray.  The church at Blundeston is an
old Norman erection with a circular tower; its roof has been lately
covered with flakes of stone, about half or three-quarters of an inch in
thickness; and its principal internal decoration, is a fragment of a
screen on which is represented the story of St. Peter and the Angel.

Not far from Blundeston Church, to the south, Thomas Morse, Esq., has
erected a substantial house in one of the most delightful situations the
country affords.

From Blundeston the visiter may approach Somerleyton.  Here, the
principal object of interest is the Hall, the seat of S. M. Peto, Esq.,
M.P.  It stands in a park of no very great extent, but well planted,
possessing a stately avenue of lime trees which, in summer are
surpassingly beautiful.  Fuller in his Worthies, vol. ii. uses these
words, “Sommerley Hall, nigh Yarmouth, well answering the name thereof:
for here sommer is to be seen in the depth of winter, in the pleasant
walks beset on both sides with firr trees, green all the year long;
besides other curiosities.”  This Hall was the seat of Sir John Wentworth
during the civil wars; his name and place of abode occur in the histories
of that period.  Mr. Peto has made very extensive alterations and
improvements both in the house and grounds; he has also erected a neat
and commodious Chapel and a Gothic School room in this parish.

The mere, called “the wicker well,” belonging to Cammant Money, Esq., is
a small lake in this parish; its banks are fringed with shrubs interwoven
with tall and graceful trees, producing on the whole a very pleasing
effect.

At no great distance from Somerleyton is Herringfleet, the Church of
which is an interesting structure, unquestionably Norman.

St. Olave’s in Herringfleet was formerly a priory of black canons,
founded by Roger Fitz-Ozbert, of Sommerley, to the honor of St. Mary, and
St. Olave the king and the martyr, in the beginning of the reign of Henry
III.  The remains of this priory were chiefly taken down in 1784, but
some parts of it are still left near the bridge, which superseded a ferry
that existed here at a very remote period, which “before the reign of
Edward I., was kept by one Sireck, a fisherman, who received for his
trouble, bread, herrings, and such like things, to the value of twenty
shillings a year;” it descended to several generations of the family.  In
the reign of Henry V. permission was given to Jeffery Pollerin of
Yarmouth, to build a bridge ‘over the water between Norfolk and Suffolk,’
which, however, was not built.  The old bridge and causeway over
Haddiscoe dam were constructed in the reign of Henry VII., at the sole
expense of Dame Margaret, the wife of Sir James Hobart: this bridge was
repaired about the year 1770, but was steep, narrow, and obstructive to
the navigation of the river: it has lately given place to a beautifully
designed Iron Bow Suspension Bridge, of curious mechanism, which is in
every sense an ornament to the neighbourhood.

In Herringfleet on the road to Somerleyton, the Misses Leathes have
erected a beautiful Villa, of which Messrs. Lucas and Son were the
builders.

                                * * * * *

The visiter may enjoy a pleasant ride through Blundeston, Lound, and
Belton; he will then arrive at Burgh Castle, the Garianonum of the
Romans.

              [Picture: N.E. View of Burgh Castle, Suffolk]

    “In the construction of this camp, the Romans pursued their usual
    method of security in building, and practised their favourite
    military architecture.  It formed an irregular parallelogram, the
    parallel sides of which were equally right lines, and equally long,
    but the corners were rounded.  Those camps which were one third
    longer than they were broad, were esteemed the most beautiful; but
    here the proportion is as two to one.

    “The principal wall of this station, in which is placed the Porta
    Prætoria, is that to the east, 14 feet high, 214 yards long, and 9
    feet broad; the north and southern walls are just the same height and
    breadth, and just half the length; the western side has no remains of
    any wall, nor can we determine, with certainty, whether it ever had
    any; the sea might, possibly, be considered as a sufficient barrier
    on that side, and the steepness of the hill, as a collateral
    security.  Four massive round towers defend the eastern wall; the
    northern has one; and another, now thrown down, stood opposite on the
    southern.  These towers were added after building the walls, and
    served not only to ornament and strengthen them, but as turres
    exploratorii; each having on the top a round hole two feet deep, and
    as many in diameter, evidently designed both for the erection of
    standards and signals, and for the admission of light temporary
    watch-towers, under the care, and for the use of the speculatores.
    The south-west corner of the station forms the pretorium, raised by
    the earth taken out of a vallum which surrounds and secures it, and
    which is sunk eight feet lower than the common surface of the area.
    Near this was placed the south tower, which being undermined some
    years since, by the force of the water running down the vallum after
    some very heavy rains, is fallen on one side near its former
    situation, but remains perfectly entire.  The north tower having met
    with a similar accident, is reclined from the wall at the top about
    six feet, has drawn a part of it, and caused a breach near it.  The
    whole area of the station contains four acres and two roods; and
    including the walls, five acres, two roods, and twenty perches.

    “The mortar made use of by the Romans in this work, was composed of
    lime and sand, unrefined by the sieve, and incorporated with common
    gravel and pebbles.  It was used two different ways; one cold, in the
    common manner now in use; the other, rendered fluid by fire and
    applied boiling hot.  From the artful mixture of both in the same
    building, and from the coarse materials of the composition, this
    cement is extremely hard and durable, very difficult to break, and
    for several days indissoluble in water.  The Romans, raising the wall
    to a convenient height with the former sort, at the end of every
    day’s work poured the latter upon it: which immediately filled up the
    interstices, and when cold, proved a most powerful adhesive.  The
    Roman bricks made use of at Burgh are of a fine red colour and very
    close texture; they are about one foot and a half long, one foot
    broad, and an inch and an half thick.  It does not, however, appear
    that the Romans had any exact standard for the size of their bricks:
    in different stations their dimensions are considerably varied.  We
    ought, however, to observe, that either in the choice of their
    materials, or in their method of preparing them, they far excel those
    of later days, being much harder and less porous than ours; and for
    durableness, more resembling stone, for which they were, undoubtedly,
    substituted.”

                                * * * * *

Again starting from Lowestoft by the western outlet, passing the church,
and keeping to the right, along the road leading to St. Olave’s bridge,
Oulton High House will be presented to notice, an old manor house, some
of the internal decorations of which are highly wrought and valuable: it
dates from the days of Elizabeth.  Between this and the church, which
lies to the westward, is the Rectory, which has been recently built, the
abode of the Rev. C. H. Cox.

The church is a curious structure, having its tower in the centre: but
the objects of greatest interest are within.  In the centre of the
chancel floor lies the full-sized effigy of an ecclesiastic, habited in
the gorgeous sacerdotal vestments of the Roman church; this is Sire Adam
Bacon, presbyter.  Ives supposes this to be the oldest and most
magnificent sepulchral brass, placed to an ecclesiastic, now remaining in
England.

On a large stone near the chancel door are the effigies of John Fastolf,
Esq., and Katherine his wife, which were placed there in 1479.
Gillingwater, page 275, discovers a relationship between these Fastolfs
and the redoubtable Knight of the “Merry wives of Windsor,” and “Henry
IV.”

Close to the church is the Hall, now the property of George Borrow, Esq.,
whose pleasant and retired residence is a little to the right of it,
overlooking the Oulton Broad.

On the road from Oulton church to Lowestoft is the house of E. Leathes,
Esq., at Normanstone, which has a fine view of the Railway and Lake
Lothing, with the parish of Kirtley in the distance.

                                * * * * *

The road to Beccles—though in some parts of it pleasing—is less
attractive than others in the neighbourhood, in consequence of the
marshes on one side of it; but midway between Lowestoft and Beccles is
Cove Hall, the residence of William Everitt, Esq. and nearer Beccles is
the beautiful seat of the Earl of Gosford, with its park and grounds.
The town of Beccles and its neighbourhood present several attractions—its
fine old church with its detached tower; its nursery grounds and several
gentlemen’s seats; not to mention other objects worthy of notice, will
all repay examination.

                                * * * * *

To the south of the harbour, and through Kirtley, is the village of
Pakefield, which may be approached either by the sea-side, or by the
turnpike road.  The church has a double nave and is neat and carefully
preserved.  The font and several brasses deserve attention.  Beyond
Pakefield is Kessingland, and between the two villages, on the beach, is
a neat and new Light-house: the walk along the cliff here is very
pleasant; several coins and other curiosities have been found at
different times, specimens of which may be obtained of an old man who
lives close by.

Through Kessingland lies Covehithe; the ruins of its church covered with
ivy, and venerable in its decay, are thus described by Davy in his
architectural antiquities.  “These splendid ruins attest the former
wealth and populousness of a place, which now ranks among the poorest and
meanest parishes in the county.  All the ancient part of this once
stately pile is now in complete decay; but divine service is performed in
a small edifice erected within the nave of the old one, though it does
not occupy one half of it.  This, as appears from an inscription on a
stone in the north wall, was completed in the year 1672.  The three grand
arches at the east, still retain their position, though much mutilated,
and, for magnitude and form, may vie with the noblest specimens of the
kind in the county.  The tower, which appears of a more ancient date than
the rest of the ruined fabric, still remains as a landmark for
travellers.”

Miss Agnes Strickland, who resides at Reydon hall, not many miles
distant, has thus sung the melancholy fate of Covehithe:—

    “On gray Covehithe mild eve has cast
       A soft and mellow ray;
    But o’er its glories time has pass’d
       With dark destroying sway.

    “All roofless now, the stately pile,
       And rent, the arches tall,
    Through which, with bright departing smile,
       The western sunbeams fall.

    “The ivy wreaths unheeded twine
       In wild profusion there,
    And oft with summer flowers combine
       To crown the oriel fair.

    “The choir is hush’d, and silent now
       The organ’s thrilling sigh;
    Yet swells at eve, from many a bough,
       The linnet’s lullaby.

    “The grass-grown aisle all green and lone,
       No musing footsteps tread;
    And even o’er the altar stone
       The mantling brambles spread.

    “Tradition’s voice forgets to tell
       Whose ashes sleep below,
    And fancy here unchecked may swell
       And bid the story flow.”

But we are trenching now upon the proper domain of Southwold, which is a
pleasant watering place beyond Covehithe, to which, if the visiter should
wish to rove, we advise that, on his return, he should take the road to
Wrentham, thence proceed along the turnpike road past Benacre Hall, the
seat of Sir T. S. Gooch, and so through Kessingland to Lowestoft again.

We have now performed our task, and heartily wish our readers health and
happiness through the season, in the enjoyment of which they cannot fail
to appreciate the pleasures afforded by the works of Him whose is the
sea, for he made it; whose hand also fashioned the dry land.

                                * * * * *

                                 THE END.

                                * * * * *

                                * * * * *

                                LOWESTOFT:
                    PRINTED BY T. CROWE, HIGH-STREET.




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Footnotes


{14}  For a very minute account of this strife, and for the merits of the
case, see Gillingwater’s History IN LOCO.

{16}  Suckling has asserted that this was a piece of Cromwell’s “usual
duplicity.”  The reader is referred to “Cromwell’s Letters and Speeches”
edited by Thomas Carlyle, for a splendid refutation of the ungenerous
calumny.

{26}  Names of the persons who composed the crew of the “Frances Ann”
Life-boat:—Lieut. T. S. Carter, R.N.; H. B. Disney, James Stebbens, James
Titlow, pilots; Thomas Aldiss, Henry Smith, Thomas Butcher, William Hook,
William Gurney, James Taylor, John Browne, William Francis, Robert
Chaston, Edmund Boyce, Thomas Humsley, Nathaniel Killwick, James
Robinson, and William Butcher.

{27}  The persons who composed the crew of the Life-boat were, Henry
Beverley Disney, Henry May, David Burwood, James Cullingham, pilots;
Cornelius Ferrett, William Ayers, Samuel Spurden, John Spurden, Robert
Watson, James Websdale, Samuel Butcher, Batholomew Allerton, James
Farrer, Peter Smith, George Burwood, Matthew Colman, Edward Ellis, and
James Stebbens.

{29}  This poor man was a teetotaller, and although left on the wreck
some hours longer than the rest, when brought on shore was found to be
less exhausted than they.

{48}  Edinburgh Review, Jan. 1840.

{50}  The interest of £1000 is left to keep this tomb in repair; the
surplus is given to the poor.

{56}  This is the orthodox time; we believe the merchants now perform the
whole process in a much shorter period.

{62}  Craik’s Sketches of the History of Learning and Literature in
England.




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