release-1.1: server: Don't send pgwire connections to the init GRPC server #22663
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PGWire messages do not reliably trigger errors in the HTTP server,
which leads to these connections timing out (which has been observed
to take minutes, depending on the client). Instead, we must always
send pgwire connections to the pgwire server (where they will still
block while the server is uninitialized, but they will be unblocked
as soon as it initializes).
This is a subset of #21682 for release-1.1.