Clickbase option for gridfinity baseplates

[iron-bro]

I found a version of Gridfinity baseplates that are designed with snap-fitting. They are referred to as Clickbase gridfinity baseplates.

I did find a generator online for it (shoutout to https://www.extrabold.tools/ 😊✨)

Here's what this looks like in their generator.

The generator is super awesome and even allows for control over the grid sizes if you wanna do something more custom but they dont have a bin generator that matches this.

They do have a super cool feature where you can draw a basic vector outline of any space you want to use gridfinity with and it will custom fit a grid to that space (see image below)

[henmedia]

@iron-bro thanks for the idea and the screenshots! The Clickbase plates with their snap joints look really handy, and so does fitting the grid into a drawn outline.

The Gridfinity shapes in layerling were built by @mlugo-apx, so I'd like to hand this to him: would you like to add a Clickbase option for the baseplates, and maybe fitting the grid into a custom outline?

[sstuckey82]

Is there a trick to inserting the swallowtails? They are either breaking or won't go in the slots. Either I'm missing something or the tails need a tolerance setting or something.

[mlugo-apx]

@sstuckey82 thanks for trying it. The keys go in from below: turn the two plates over, side by side with their cells in line, and press a key into each pocket across the seam. Its two slotted ends squeeze past a lip at the bottom of the pocket and spring out behind it.

The fit is tight, 0.025 mm on each side, and I tuned it on one printer: an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 in PETG, with elephant foot compensation at 0.15 mm in the slicer. That makes the first layers a little smaller, and the pockets open on the plate's first layers, so they come out a little wider there. With less compensation, or a stiffer material, the keys can jam or snap. Until there is a setting for it, try elephant foot compensation at 0.15 mm, or scale the keys to 98% in X and Y in the slicer. Which printer, material and slicer did you use, and do the keys break at the slotted ends?

@henmedia I'd like to add a clearance setting for the keys, so the fit can be loosened for other printers and materials. May I take that?

[henmedia]

@mlugo-apx yes, please take it. Two people now report that the keys are too tight, so a clearance setting is needed, and a looser default may be worth considering as well, since the current fit was tuned on one printer and material only. It would also be good to check the PLA case from @sstuckey82 (Bambu, no slicer changes), and to have a look at the bridge @makinglayerschannel shows in the picture at the bottom edge of the pocket.

@sstuckey82 @makinglayerschannel thanks for testing and for the details. We are looking at a clearance setting for the keys, so the fit can be loosened for your printer and material.

[mlugo-apx]

@henmedia thanks. I'm printing keys at several clearances with no slicer compensation to find a default that works without it, and I'll look at the bridge at the pocket's edge.

[henmedia]

@sstuckey82 @makinglayerschannel @iron-bro mlugo-apx's fix is out now in layerling 1.141.0: the pocket's lip only runs at the keys' slotted ends, and Key clearance under Swallowtail lets you make the keys looser or tighter. Click Add keys again after changing it.

[sstuckey82]

I used PLA in a Bambu X2D and Bambu Slicer with no setting changes from my normal GRIPS Gridfinity baseplate prints I have made 75-100 times. There was never any need to use anything but PLA for those prints and the dovetails fit together with a slight press at each joint. For a baseplate that is not under any stress there shouldn’t be any need for PETG in my opinion. It feels like there could be another solution that doesn’t involve loose connectors. Otherwise there really isn’t any reason to use the baseplate tool in Layerling when there are many other free dovetail solutions out there. On Nov 3, 2026, at 8:49 PM, mlugo-apx ***@***.***> wrote: @sstuckey82 thanks for trying it. The keys go in from below: turn the two plates over, side by side with their cells in line, and press a key into each pocket across the seam. Its two slotted ends squeeze past a lip at the bottom of the pocket and spring out behind it. The fit is tight, 0.025 mm on each side, and I tuned it on one printer: an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 in PETG, with elephant foot compensation at 0.15 mm in the slicer. That makes the first layers a little smaller, and the pockets open on the plate's first layers, so they come out a little wider there. With less compensation, or a stiffer material, the keys can jam or snap. Until there is a setting for it, try elephant foot compensation at 0.15 mm, or scale the keys to 98% in X and Y in the slicer. Which printer, material and slicer did you use, and do the keys break at the slotted ends? @henmedia I'd like to add a clearance setting for the keys, so the fit can be loosened for other printers and materials. May I take that? —Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: ***@***.***>

[makinglayerschannel]

Agreed, I printed out the swallowtail with keys in petg on a Elegoo CC2 and I can't force them into place either. It's also weird that when I turn the base with swallowtail upside down, there is CLEARLY a bridge at the very bottom on the edge (if it were oriented correctly). It wasn't there when I printed, which is good.

[sstuckey82]

I tested the new keys with .05 tolerance on my Bambu X2D with PLA and normal settings and they worked fine. No problem getting them in the first base and a little tough connecting two bases together with multiple keys but got it to work with not too much trouble. I will try the .10 tolerance to see if it helps, but otherwise I think the tolerance addition was a success.

[henmedia]

@sstuckey82 thank you for testing and reporting back, great to hear the keys go in now. @mlugo-apx, your clearance setting does its job 🙂