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Assembly Instruction: October 2026 Ed.
Before beginning assembly, please check the parts included in this kit against the “List of parts included in this kit” below to ensure that all parts are present.
The photo below shows the “Torino” model. If the model is unprinted, they are all white.
The image above shows the stabilizers assembled. Before beginning work on the main unit, please assemble them as shown in the image above to confirm that no parts are missing and that they function properly.
Each stabilizer set includes:
- Wire: 1 piece
- Base: 2 pieces
- Stem: 2 pieces
Each foot set includes:
- Rubber foot cases (2 pcs.)
- Rubber feet (2 pcs.)
- Not included in this kit
- 8 mm foot spacer
- 4 mm 〃
- 6 mm foot screws (2 pcs.)
- 8 mm 〃 (2 pcs.)
- 12 mm 〃
- 16 mm 〃
- 20 mm 〃
- 25 mm 〃
- 30 mm 〃
- 35 mm 〃
- 40 mm 〃
- Washers (2 pcs.)
are included.
Key switches are required for testing. Please have them ready before assembly. You will need at least 43 switches. While 42 are installed on the main unit, you will need at least one spare.
Most key switches compatible with the Gateron Low Profile 2.0 socket (part number KS-2P02B01-02) will work. The Gateron KS-27 and KS-33 series are compatible. Part numbers include:
- KS-27H10B050NN-X5
- KS-27E10B055NN-X5
- KS-27C10B050NN-X5
- KS-33H10B050NN-Y24
- KS-33E10B055NN-Y24
- KS-33C10B065NN-Y24
- KS-33Y10B060NN-D137
are compatible, but many other key switches also will work.
- Phillips screwdriver, PH1 (shaft diameter 5 mm)
- Flathead screwdriver (blade width 6 mm or less)
- Utility knife
- Nipper
- Plier
- Multimeter (one that makes it easy to check continuity)
- Hand soldering tools: soldering iron, soldering stand, solder wire, solvent for removing flux, etc.
- Desktop anti-static mat
- PC capable of connecting to a USB keyboard and running Chrome or similar software
- USB cable with a Type-C connector on one end and a connector suitable for connecting to the above PC or similar device on the other end
- USB Type-C device for testing functionality
- Tissue papers
- Masking tape
- Epoxy adhesive
- Workbench
I take every precaution to ensure the quality of this kit, but in rare cases, a defective part may be included. If you suspect that a part in this kit is defective, please contact DecentKeyboards. However, please note that we cannot accept refunds or exchanges for parts after assembly is complete.
Please check the parts included in this kit against the “List of parts included in this kit” above to ensure that all parts are present.
Please make sure you have at least 43 key switches compatible with this kit on hand.
Place an anti-static mat on your workbench. Before starting work, touch the anti-static mat with your hand. If you do not have an anti-static mat, please work at your kitchen sink.
The board set and the lower and back beam set contain many sections with holes arranged in a tight, straight line, as shown in the photo below.
These sections are called “mouse bites.” During assembly, you’ll need to cut the board along these sections. The photo below shows what the board looks like after cutting out one mouse bite.
To make separation easier, use a utility knife to score the mouse bites. Do this for all mouse bites on both the board set and the lower and back beam set.
Hold the board in your hand, position the mouse bite at a corner, and press down with your finger from the back while bending the board to separate the mouse bite. If it doesn’t seem to separate easily, score it again with the utility knife.
Short runners are difficult to separate by hand, so use pliers to grip and snap them off as shown in the photo below.
Discard the runners that connected the circuit boards.
Assemble the bottom lid, the five beams (front, Z space, AZ, QA, back), and the two walls (left, right) as shown in the photo below, and secure them with masking tape.
Note that due to manufacturing tolerances, the boards may be tight when inserting them into each other. If this happens, use a utility knife to shave the edge of the board so it can be inserted all the way. Do not shave more than 0.1 mm. If it seems you need to shave more than that, something is wrong.
The pre-assembled workpiece features numerous white arrows, as shown in the photo below, and pads indicated by those arrows. For pad groups, there are white symbols that gather pads into pad groups, in addition to the arrows.
For each pad indicated by these symbols, there is another pad on the vertical PCB immediately adjacent to it. This pair is called a “pad pair.”
Please solder the pad pair located near the center of the QA beam. Create a solder bridge between the two pads. Check that the connection is secure by pressing on it with your finger—it should not wobble. Once verified, press the beam down toward the bottom lid with your finger while reheating the solder. Ensure the beam is fully inserted all the way, then let the solder cool to set the connection.
Proceed with the Z-space beam and AZ beam in the same manner as the QA beam. Additionally, repeat this process for all pad pairs connecting the five beams and the two walls.
The front beam and back beam may become fixed in a distorted position. Inspect them, and if they are distorted, adjust them so they are straight.
If you have followed the instructions correctly up to this point, the assembly will not come apart even after you remove the masking tape. If everything looks okay, remove all the masking tape.
Solder all the remaining pad pairs. Signals flow through areas where multiple pad pairs are lined up. Be careful not to short-circuit them with adjacent pad pairs.
If you look at the photo above, you’ll see round pads next to the legends S5, S6, and S7. These pads are called “test points.” All pads or test points indicated by the same legend must be electrically connected. Please use a multimeter to check continuity between the pads on the two walls and the test points on the bottom lid, as well as between the test points on the bottom lid and the pads on the Z-space beam.
Be sure to perform continuity checks on all signal lines. It is difficult to make corrections later.
To ensure a reliable connection, you will need to heat the pad pairs for a surprisingly long time. You will also need to use more solder than you would for typical soldering.
The two panels (front and back) have a total of five rectangular pads. Apply solder to all of them as shown in the photo below.
Temporarily secure each of the two panels to the beam with masking tape, as shown in the photo below (disclaimer: the back panel in this photo is a prototype, so it differs in shape from the final product). When doing so, align the white line near the wall with the edge of the beam.
The beam has large plated through-holes positioned directly opposite each pad on the panel. Insert the tip of the soldering iron into these holes, and while adding solder with a solder wire, heat both the pad and the plated through-hole simultaneously to join them. Once joined, press the panel firmly against the beam while heating it again to ensure it is secured with as little gap as possible.
Once all five points are joined, remove the masking tape used for temporary fixation.
Insert the four lower boards (Q, A, Z, space) into the workpiece as shown in the photo below. Although the boards in the photo below have been soldered, at this stage, you are only inserting them.
If you cannot insert them all the way, use a utility knife to shave the edge of the board so they fit. Do not shave more than 0.1 mm. If it seems you need to shave more than that, something is wrong. Carefully observe the relative positions of the paired pads and ensure they are correctly aligned.
Once they are correctly inserted as shown in the photo, temporarily remove the Q, A, and Z lower boards.
Just as you did with the beams, solder the space lower board in place and secure it while ensuring it is fully inserted. It should look like the photo below.
Check for continuity between the test points on the space lower board and those on the bottom lid.
Secure the Z and A lower board in the same way as the space lower board, and check for continuity between the test point and the pads on the two walls.
Next, secure the Q lower board in the same way and check for continuity between its test point and those of the other lower boards. To check continuity with the back beam, operate the unit as a keyboard. Insert key switches into all sockets, as shown in the photo below. They will not be securely fixed, but this is normal.
Connect the USB Type-C connector located at the upper-left rear of the workpiece to your PC. Open https://vial.rocks/ in a WebHID-compatible browser (such as Chrome), click “Start Vial” to authorize the Yonju connection, open the “Matrix Tester” tab, click the “Unlock” button in the lower right corner, and follow the instructions on the screen that appears (press and hold two keys for an extended period) to test the key switches. If any keys do not work, check the pad pair connecting Q lower board and back beam.
With the workpiece connected to the PC, plug a USB Type-C device (for testing functionality) into the USB Type-C connector at the upper-right rear of the workpiece. Verify on the PC that the device is recognized correctly. Test all three connectors at the upper-right rear of the workpiece in the same manner.
Remove all USB devices and cables attached to the workpiece. Remove all key switches.
Machining oil is present on the surface of the foot mounts. Wipe it off with a tissue.
Use nippers to cut the runners from the foot mounts as shown in the photo below.
One part after cutting will look like the photo below. Please verify that each part is marked with the letters “L” and “R.” The photo below shows the “L” part.
Use nippers to cut the sprues on both the “L” and “R” foot mounts, as shown in the photo below.
One part after cutting will look like the photo below. This is the front foot mount. The other part is the rear foot mount.
Cut each of the front foot mount sprues near the base, as shown in the photo below.
If you’ve followed the instructions correctly up to this point, the foot mounts should now be divided into six parts, as shown in the photo below. Compare them to verify. Also, check that the letters “L” and “R” are marked on the inner walls of the front foot mounts. Discard the leftover sprue pieces.
Cut the rear foot mount marked with “L” as shown in the photo below.
Insert the part without the “L” marking into the workpiece as shown in the photo below. If it doesn’t go all the way in, use a utility knife to shave the front and rear curved surfaces of the foot mount so that it fits.
Similarly, cut off the rear foot mount marked with the letter “R” and fit it into the workpiece as shown in the photo below. If it does not fit all the way in, use a utility knife to shave the curved surfaces at the front and back of the foot mount so that it can be inserted.
Once the “L” and “R” markings have been cut off, it is difficult to distinguish between the left and right parts of the two rear foot mounts. Please be careful not to mix them up.
Insert the four upper boards (Q, A, Z, space) into the workpiece as shown in the photo below.
If they do not insert all the way, use a utility knife to shave the PCB so they can be inserted. Do not shave more than 0.1 mm. If it seems you need to shave more than that, something is wrong. Carefully observe the relative positions of the paired pads and ensure they are correctly aligned.
Unlike the previous steps, there are no white arrows on the upper boards to indicate pad pairs. Locate the pad pairs and solder them. The two rear foot mounts will be secured by being sandwiched between the Q lower board and Q upper board. After soldering the pad pairs around the foot mounts, press the Q upper board onto the Q lower board with your finger while reheating and cooling the solder to ensure there is no play.
Removing flux is not necessary for operation, but if you wish to do so for aesthetic reasons, please do so at this stage.
The inner walls of the front foot mounts are marked with the letters “L” or “R.” The part marked “L” goes on the left side of the workpiece, and the part marked “R” goes on the right. Fit the two onto the workpiece as shown in the photo below.
Mix the two components of the epoxy adhesive to prepare for bonding. Remove one of the front foot mounts. Apply adhesive to the outer walls on the front and back sides of the foot mount and to the corresponding surface of the beam. Reinsert the foot mount into the workpiece as shown in the photo. Bond the other foot mount in the same manner. Wipe off any excess adhesive with a tissue.
Wait until the adhesive has cured.
To install the rubber foot, you will need the following items for each location:
- 6 mm foot screw
- 8 mm foot screw
- Washer
- Rubber foot case
- Rubber foot
Please take out these parts from the foot set.
Use these parts to attach the rubber foot to the workpiece as shown in the photo below. Use the 8 mm foot screw and washer for the rubber feet. Tighten the screws using only the minimum amount of force necessary to prevent the parts from wobbling. Tightening them with the same force used for ordinary household appliances will damage the plastic. Also, keep the number of times you attach and detach the parts to a minimum.
Install the stabilizers at two locations on the top surface of the workpiece: on the right side and the front side.
Insert the stabilizer at an angle through the wire, as shown in the photo below. Once it is in the position shown in the photo, push the two bases toward front while rotating them around the wire as an axis, and snap the rear end into the slot of the upper board.
Install the key switch. When doing so, be careful not to misalign the switch pins, and insert the switch as vertically as possible. Inserting it at an angle may cause the pins to be crushed.
Test the key switches for proper operation, just as you did after installing the lower boards. If any key switches do not work, remove them temporarily and check that the pins are intact. You can remove a key switch by lifting it while pressing down on the left and right tabs with a flathead screwdriver.
Snap the keycaps onto the key switches. They will be fixed into place by pressing down from above. The key layouts are shown in the photo below.
For unprinted keycaps, the convex keycaps should be installed in the following four locations:
- The space key
- The two keys to its left
- The key to the right of the space key, skipping one key
That’s it—you’re done. Thank you for your hard work.
With the Yonju, you can adjust the angle by adding foot spacers to the rubber feet. You can choose from 4, 8, or 12 mm spacers. For the 12 mm setting, stack a 4 mm and an 8 mm foot spacer and install them together.
Please add the foot spacers to only the front or the back. If you try to add foot spacers to both the front and back, the included foot screws may not be sufficient.
As an example, here’s how to install an 8 mm foot spacer. In this case, use 16 mm and 20 mm foot screws. Assemble the rubber foot, rubber foot case, 8 mm foot spacer, two foot screws, and washers as shown in the photo below.
When you attach this to the rear foot, it will look like the photo below.
When you attach it to the front foot, it will look like the photo below.
For other heights, select foot screws so that the portion inserted into the foot mount does not exceed 10 mm. Please note that some of the foot screws included in this kit may be of a length that cannot be used; this is due to manufacturing constraints and is normal.